THE  COOK’S  TIME-TABLE 


Roasting 

MEATS 

Beef  (ribs)  per  lb.,  rare,  io  to 
15  min. 

..  (rolled)  per  lb.,  1 2 to  18  min. 

Corned  Beef 

Braised  meats ....  3 to  4 hours 
Ham.  . . .per  lb.,  15  to  20  min. 

Mutton  (leg) 

per  lb.,  12  to  15  min. 
..  (shoulder)  stuffed .... 

per  lb.,  15  min. 

..  (loin) 

per  lb.,  8 to  10  min. 
Pork.  . . .per  lb.,  20  ..  25  .. 

Veal per  lb.,  30  .. 

POULTRY 


Chicken  per  lb.. 

. 15  min. 

Goose.  ...per  lb.. 

15  to 

20 

Duck  (tame) . . . 

.40  .. 

50  - 

(wild).... 

• 15  •• 

20  "A 

Grouse 

25 

Partridge 

.30  .. 

40  .. 

Squabs 

15  •• 

l8  .. 

Small  birds..  . .15  ..  20  .. 

Turkey 1 Yz  ..  3 hours 

according  to  size. 

FISH 

Bass 
Blue 
Cod 

Halibut 
Salmon 
Trout 

Lobster 40  min. 

Shad 

Large  fish 45  to  60  min. 

Small  fish 15  ..  25  .. 


per  lb.,  10  to  15  mm. 


Boiling 

MEATS 


. .per  lb.,  30  to  40  min. 
per  lb.,  about  20  min. 
per  lb.,  15  to  20  min. 


per  lb.,  20  to  30  min. 


POULTRY 


F;' 


FowiUNIVBRSiWn® 

ILLINOIS  L1HR& 
TURBANA-CHANtPI 
BOOKSTACKS 


. . . per  lb.,  15  min. 

FISH 


Broiling 

MEATS 

Steak  (according  to  thickness) 
8 to  12  min. 


Sliced,  5 to  8 min. 


Chops 8 to  10  min. 


Chops 15  to  18  min. 

Cutlets 15  .. 

POULTRY 

. . (Small  broiler)  18  to  20  min. 


y::::: 

lAIGN 


15  min. 

20  .. 

.10  to  1 2 .. 


FISH 


per  lb.,  8 to  10  min, 

8 to  12  min, 

8 ..  10  .. 

8 ..  12  .. 

5 ..  8 .. 

8 ..  12  .. 

12  ..  15  .. 

12  ..  IS  .. 

30  ..  40  .. 

12  ..  15  .. 

30  ..  40  .. 

15-20  .. 

6 ..  10  .. 

20  ..  30  .. 

12  ..  20  .. 

BOILING  OF  VEGETABLES 

BOILING  OF 

VEGETABLES. — Cont'd. 

Asparagus 

min. 

Potatoes 

Cabbage 

25 

Rice 

Cauliflower 

25 

Spinach 

Corn  (green) 

20 

Turnips 

Beans  (string) 

25  .. 

30 

(Lima) 

Beets 

30  - 

35 

40 

BAKING 

OF  BREAD,  ETC. 

Brussels  Sprouts .... 

12  .. 

15 

Macaroni 

30  - 

40 

Bread 

about  1 hour 

Onions 

40 

Biscuits 

Parsnips 

35 

Cake 

Pease 

20 

Custards 

50  - 60  .. 

B& 


WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES 


Every  kitchen  should  have  scales,  with  weights  from  a quarter  of  an  ounce 
to  two  pounds,  and  the  weights  should  be  kept  carefully  in  order.  A set  of 
tin  measures  with  small  spouts  or  lips,  with  the  content  distinctly  marked 
upon  them,  from  a half-gallon  down  to  a pint,  will  also  be  found  very  convenient. 
For  smaller  measures  use  a graduated  glass,  which  can  be  bought  in  any  drug- 
store. It  is  likewise  well  to  have  a set  of  wooden  measures,  from  a peck  down 
to  a quarter  of  a peck. 


4 gills — . r-.  -. . . 

2 pints 

4 quarts 

Yz  cupful.  

4 cupfuls 

1 6 table-spoonfuls  of  liquid 

8 heaping  table-spoonfuls  of  dry  material 

I cupful 

30  drops  of  liquid 

4 table-spoonfuls • . . . . 

4 wineglassfuls 

1 ounce  of  salt  or  granulated  sugar 

16  ounces 

4 cupfuls  of  sifted  flour 

I pint  of  granulated  sugar 

I pint  of  powdered  sugar 

I large  table-spoonful  of  butter 

I pint  of  butter 

8 1o  10  eggs 


= 1 pint 
= I quart 
= 1 gallon 
= I gill 

— I quart 
= 1 cupful 
= I cupful 
= Yz  pint 

= 1 teaspoonful 
= 1 wineglassful 
= 1 cupful 

= i heaping  table-spoonful 
= 1 pound 
==  1 pound 

— I pound 
= 14  ounces 
= 2 ounces 
= 1 pound 
= 1 pound 


PROPORTIONS 

Use  4 level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder;  or  2 teaspoonfuls  of  soda  and 
4 teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar;  or  2 cupfuls  of  sour  milk  and  I teaspoonful 
of  soda — to  1 quart  of  flour. 

One  cake  of  compressed  yeast  = 1 cupful  of  liquid  yeast. 

For  custards  use  2 or  3 eggs ; Yz  teaspoonful  of  salt ; Yz  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
— to  one  pint  of  milk. 

Use  2 ounces  of  gelatine  to  3/4  pints  of  liquid. 

Use  Y\  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  to  1 cupful  of  flour. 

Use  4 table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch  to  I quart  of  milk. 

To  /4  pint  of  molasses  use  I teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Where  molasses  or  sour  milk  is  used  in  baking,  cream  of  tartar  or  baking- 
powder  is  to  be  omitted,  and  soda  only  is  to  be  used. 

Dry  materials  are  to  be  mixed  and  sifted  together.  Liquids  to  be  mixed 
together.  In  baking,  the  dry  and  liquid  materials  are  combined  just  before 
putting  into  the  oven. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/harperscookbookeOOunse 


> 


HARPER’S 

COOK  BOOK 

ENCYCLOPAEDIA 


ARRANGED  LIKE  A DICTIONARY,  AND  COMPILED 
UNDER  THE  DIRECTION  OF  THE 


EDITOR  OF 

HARPER’S  BAZAR 

WITH  CONTRIBUTIONS  BY  FAMOUS  AUTHORITIES  ON 
COOKING,  INCLUDING 


MARIA  BLAY 
CHRISTINE  T.  HERRICK 
MARGARET  SANGSTER 
ELENA  DE  LA  TORRE  BUENO 


MARION  HARLAND 
MARY  J.  LINCOLN 
JOSEPHINE  GRENIER 
YSAGUIRRE 


ETC.,  ETC.,  ETC. 


NEW  YORK  AND  LONDON 
HARPER  <Sr  BROTHERS  PUBLISHERS 
1902 


Copyright,  1902,  by  Harper  & Brothers. 


All  rights  reserved. 
Published  November,  1902. 


6.^/  ,5 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

TABLE  SET  FOR  A FORMAL  SPRING  BREAKFAST  ....  Frontispiece 

VIOLET  JELLY  WITH  WHIPPED  CREAM  1 

GRAPE  FRUIT  WITH  MARASCHINO  CHERRIES  l . . , Facing p.  64 

EGGS  A LA  BONNE  FEMME  J 

TABLE  SET  FOR  LUNCHEON " 1 00 

SALMON  TROUT  LARDED  AND  STUFFED 
CODFISH  A LA  BONNE  FEMME 
FRESH  MACKEREL  STUFFED  AND  BAKED 

TABLE  SET  FOR  AN  INFORMAL  DINNER H 200 

LAMB  STEW  WITH  GREEN  PEASE 
JELLIED  CHICKEN  WITH  ASPIC  JELLY 
CHOPS  WITH  PYRAMID  OF  POTATO 
PIGEONS  WITH  YOUNG  GREEN  PEASE 

BONELESS  TURKEY  STUFFED  WITH  TRUFFLES  V . . . 

STUFFED  SHOULDER  OF  LAMB  J 


230 


TABLE  SET  FOR  AN  INFORMAL  SUNDAY-EVENING  SUPPER 


400 


INTRODUCTION 


ARRANGEMENT. — The  first  effort  in  preparing  this  work  has  been  to 
arrange  every  recipe  on  every  subject  so  that  any  housekeeper  can  find 
exactly  what  is  wanted  at  once,  simply  by  opening  the  book,  as  you 
would  find  a word  in  a dictionary.  This  has  been  done  by  arranging  the 
whole  work — every  subject — alphabetically,  and  by  a most  complete  sys- 
tem of  cross-references. 

VARIETY. — By  this  plan  similar  recipes  are  grouped  under  general 
headings,  so  that  in  looking  up  any  recipe  the  reader  is  offered  a variety 
of  recipes  on  the  same  subject,  without  the  necessity  of  hunting  through 
a maze  of  indexes. 

For  example,  under  “ Chicken  ''  are  given,  in  alphabetical  order,  references 
to  all  the  different  ways  of  preparing  it.  This  list  begins  with  a reference 
to  some  thirty  recipes  for  cooking  chicken  under  the  general  heading  of 
“ Poultry/'  followed  by  references  to  chicken  salads,  chicken  sandwiches, 
chicken  souffles,  chicken  soups,  and  chicken  timbales  grouped  under  their 
respective  headings,  so  that  at  a glance  the  reader  may  find  and  select 
just  what  is  wanted.  It  often  happens  that  one  is  uncertain  as  to  the 
best  way  of  preparing  meat,  fowl,  vegetables,  etc.  The  present  arrange- 
ment not  only  gives  direct  references  to  particular  recipes,  but,  by  group- 
ing together  recipes  on  the  same  subject,  suggests  new  possibilities.  In 
many  cases  a choice  of  well-tried  recipes  is  given  for  preparing  the  same 
dish. 

Such  an  arrangement  is  new,  and  will  be  found  not  only  valuable  but 
helpful  and  suggestive.  A few  practical  hints  follow  regarding  some  of 
the  simple  principles  of  cooking — recipes  for  the  chafing-dish,  cooking  for 
invalids,  the  cook's  time-tables,  tables  of  weights  and  proportions,  cook- 
ing utensils,  etc. 

SOME  Simple  Principles. — In  cooking  meat  there  are  really  only 
two  simple  principles  to  remember.  The  first  is  that  with  a temperature 
higher  than  that  of  the  boiling-point  (21 20)  the  fibrine  and  albumen  of  the 
meat  shrink  and  the  meat  becomes  hard  and  indigestible ; whereas,  with 
the  temperature  at  or  just  below  the  boiling-point,  and  with  plenty  of  moist- 
ure, even  a tough  piece  of  meat  becomes  tender. 

The  second  principle  is  that  the  less  the  juice  of  the  meat  escapes  dur- 
ing cooking  the  better  its  flavor. 


INTRODUCTION 


Creams. 

Dishes  a la  Newburg. 

Pancakes.  See  Bread. 

Sauted  meats. 

Stewed  meats. 

Ragouts. 

Rechauffes 

Canapes.  See  Sandwiches. 

The  best  chafing-dish  is  one  with  a double  pan,  the  lower  one  contain- 
ing hot  water,  the  upper  one  being  called  the  blazer.  The  blazer  is  fre- 
quently used  alone,  but  when  milk  is  an  ingredient  the  double  pan  should 
always  be  used. 

Before  lighting  the  flame  all  the  materials  should  be  ready  at  hand  on 
a large  Japanese  tray.  Salt,  pepper,  butter,  flour,  cream  or  milk,  a wooden 
spoon,  a knife  and  fork,  and  a few  plates.  Where  possible,  use  Russian 
bowls  for  the  fnaterials,  as  these  are  made  of  wood,  do  not  break,  make  no 
noise,  and  are  also  ornamental.  They  can  be  bought  in  various  sizes. 

INVALID  Cookery. — Dainty  preparation  and  serving  is  the  first 
requisite  of  cooking  for  invalids  and  convalescents.  It  is  impossible  to 
give  a complete  list  of  recipes,  or  one  that  will  do  more  than  suggest  to  the 
nurse  or  cook  a few  appetizing  dishes.  Spotless  linen  and  dainty  portions, 
attractively  served,  are  the  chief  things.  With  these,  any  easily  digested 
food  or  dessert  may,  according  to  judgment,  be  included  in  the  list.  The 
following  is  a partial  list  of  dishes  suitable  for  the  sick-room : 


Broths  (chicken,  mutton,  etc.). 
Gruels  and  porridges. 

Panada. 

Beef  tea. 

Beefsteak,  broiled. 

Game. 

Fish. 

Oysters  and  clams. 

Eggs. 


Blanc-manges. 

Creams. 

Corn-starch  and  rice  puddings. 
Arrow-root. 

Fruit  prepared  simply. 

Wine,  fruit,  and  other  jellies. 
Cream  soups. 

Maigre  soups. 

Toast. 


Requisite  Kitchen  Utensils. — The  essential  articles  of  furnish- 
ing for  all  kitchens  are  practically  the  same.  Where  a great  deal  of  fancy 
cooking  is  done,  or  in  households  where  it  is  desirable  and  feasible  to  have 
as  complete  furnishing  as  possible,  including  the  many  novelties  that  are 
constantly  being  offered,  it  is  best  to  make  the  selection  direct  from  the 


vui 


INTRODUCTION 


dealer.  Heavy  tinware  keeps  its  shape  better,  lasts  longer,  and  is  in  the 
long  run  more  economical  than  tin  of  light  weight.  Granite-ware  is  prefer- 
able to  porcelain-lined.  It  does  not  become  discolored,  and  food  cooked 
in  it  will  not  stick  or  burn  as  easily  as  in  porcelain.  The  following  list 
includes  the  utensils  requisite  in  a well-equipped  kitchen : 

Bain-marie,  a large  deep  pan  containing  boiling  or  hot  water.  Used  to 
keep  other  vessels  at  a temperature  below  boiling-point. 

Beaters— one  Dover  egg-beater,  one  common  wire  whisk. 

Board  (hardwood)  for  cutting  meats,  etc. 

Boilers  (double)— one  holding  from  two  to  three  quarts,  one  for  boiling  ham. 
Bowl  (wooden)  to  use  in  chopping. 

Bowls— four  large  yellow  bowls,  graduated  sizes,  from  six  quarts  down ; 
four  white  bowls,  one  quart  each. 

Boxes  or  buckets  (wooden),  for  sugar,  meal,  rice,  tapioca,  barley,  soda,  etc. 
Bread-board. 

Broilers  (double) — one  each  for  toast,  fish,  and  meat. 

Broom. 

Brush  for  glazing,  rubbing  whites  of  eggs  over  rusks,  crullers,  etc. 
Brushes  for  scrubbing, blacking,  etc. 

Butter  roller  (wooden). 

Cake-box. 

Cake-turner. 

Canisters — one  each  for  tea  and  coffee. 

Can-opener. 

Chafing-dish  and  a set  of  Russian  bowls. 

Chopping  tray  and  knife. 

Cloth  (wire  steel);  also  dish-cloths,  towels,  etc 
Coffee-mill. 

Colanders— one  coarse,  one  fine. 

Corer  for  apples. 

Corkscrew. 

Cream-whipper. 

Cups — six,  holding  half-pint  each. 

Cutters  for  biscuits,  crotitons,  etc. 

Cutters  for  vegetables. 

Dippers — one  large,  one  small,  both  with  long  handles. 

Dredgers,  one  each  for  flour,  powdered  sugar,  salt,  and  pepper. 
Egg-poacher. 

Fancy  cake  pans. 

Forks — one  large,  two  small. 


IX 


INTRODUCTION 


Frying-kettle  (deep),  with  frying-basket. 

Funnel. 

Grater. 

Griddle. 

Ice-pick. 

Iron  for  waffles. 

Jagging-iron. 

Kettles — one  fish-kettle,  one  for  preserving,  one  frying-kettie,  one  custard- 
kettle  (double),  one  steaming-kettle. 

Knives— one  boning  knife,  one  butcher’s  knife,  one  French  cook’s  knife, 
two  case  knives,  two  vegetable  knives  (one  fluted  to  cut  vegetables 
for  decorations,  etc.). 

Measures — two  holding  one  quart  each,  one  holding  a pint. 

Mortar  and  pestle. 

Moulds  for  puddings,  jellies,  timbales,  etc. 

Needles — one  for  trussing,  one  for  larding. 

Pails  for  cleaning  purposes. 

Pancake  lifter. 

Potato  and  vegetable  masher. 

Pots  and  pans — two  large  pots  of  cast-iron,  for  meats,  etc. ; three  granite 
stew-pans,  from  one-half  to  four  quarts ; three  frying  (saute)  pans ; one 
dish -pan;  two  bread -pans,  six  to  eight  quarts  respectively;  two 
milk -pans;  two  baking -pans;  four  tin  (shallow)  baking -pans ; four 
deep  pans  for  meats ; one  braising-pan ; one  iuuflin-pan ; one  teapot, 
one  coffee-pot ; one  chocolate-pot,  one  stone  pot  for  bread,  ten  quarts ; 
one  for  butter,  six  quarts ; one  of  three  quarts ; one  bean-pot. 

Pudding-dish  of  earthern-ware. 

Rolling-pin. 

Scales  and  weights. 

Scoops — one  each  for  flour  and  sugar. 

Set  of  steel  skewers. 

Sieves — one  for  flour,  two  for  purees — one  coarse,  one  fine. 

Skimmer. 

Spice-box. 

Spoons — four  large  mixing-spoons,  two  table-spoons,  six  teaspoons. 

Squeezers — one  for  lemons,  one  for  pressing  the  juice  from  meats,  etc. 

Steamer  to  fit  a large  iron  pot. 

Strainers — one  for  gravies,  one  for  vegetables. 

Economy  and  Wastefulness. — Economy  in  cooking  does  not 

consist  primarily  in  buying  cheap  foods ; it  does  consist,  first  of  all,  in 

x 


INTRODUCTION 


the  intelligent  saving  and  combination  of  things  left  over,  in  the  use  of  all 
kinds  of  remnants  from  the  table — meats,  cereals,  vegetables,  and  so  on — 
materials  that  can  be  made,  with  a little  attention,  into  attractive,  desira- 
ble dishes.  There  is  economy,  however,  in  buying  in  quantity  some  of 
the  less  perishable  staples,  such  as  flour,  salt,  coffee,  tea,  canned  goods 
of  prime  quality,  etc.  Sugar  is  usually  sold  so  near  the  wholesale  price 
that  buying  it  in  quantities  is  largely  a matter  of  convenience.  Granu- 
lated sugar  is  usually  considered  the  best  value,  because,  while  the  so- 
called  coffee  sugars  may  be  a little  cheaper,  the  difference  is  often  made 
up  by  increase  in  weight  through  moisture.  In  the  majority  of  house- 
holds there  is  little  economy  in  buying  meat  in  large  quantities,  on 
account  of  the  lack  of  proper  facilities  for  keeping  it.  With  meats  the  best 
economy  is  in  the  proper  use  of  the  fat,  marrow,  trimmings,  etc.  For  ex- 
ample, when  meat  comes  from  the  market  trim  off  all  the  fat  not  absolutely 
needed  for  cooking.  The  suet  or  kidney  fat  is  excellent  for  mince-meat, 
plum  pudding,  suet  crust,  dumplings,  and  even  delicate  puff  paste,  when 
properly  prepared.  Suet  may  be  kept  fresh  for  several  days  by  entirely 
surrounding  it  with  flour.  Cut  the  superfluous  fat  in  small  pieces,  and 
put  it  in  a pan  on  the  stove  where  it  will  melt  without  browning.  As  the 
fat  melts  pour  it  into  earthen  vessels.  When  nearly  all  the  oil  is  extracted, 
the  “ scraps  ” will  begin  to  brown.  They  are  excellent,  salted  and  nicely 
browned,  with  baked  or  boiled  potatoes,  etc.  The  drippings  should  be 
clarified  to  use  in  cooking  other  dishes.  The  marrow-bone  should  be 
cut  away  from  the  meat  and  split  into  pieces,  two  or  three  inches  long,  so 
that  the  marrow  may  be  taken  out  in  unbroken  portions.  Marrow  may 
be  used  in  place  of  butter  on  toast ; or  of  butter  in  making  force-meat 
balls,  etc.  After  the  marrow  has  been  extracted,  the  bones  should  be  put 
into  the  soup-kettle. 

Cut  bread,  not  used,  may  be  trimmed  and  toasted.  Odds  and  ends  of 
bread  may  be  made  into  crotitons  for  soup,  etc.  (see  Crofitons,  page  88),  or 
may  be  used  in  bread  pudding,  force-meat,  brown  betty,  etc.  Scraps  of 
bread  should  be  used  for  making  crumbs  for  breading  croquettes,  chops,  etc. 

Put  the  remains  of  poultry  and  bones  from  roasts,  etc.— in  fact,  everything 
that  cannot  be  utilized  elsewhere— into  the  soup-pot  for  stock  and  sauces. 
But  on  no  account  must  the  stock  be  kept  indefinitely.  If  necessary, 
use  a little  fresh  stock  to  lengthen  out  what  was  left  of  stock  made  yes- 
terday. But  if  you  always  add  the  fresh  stock  to  the  old,  you  will  be 
almost  sure  to  have  sour  stock  and  gravy  at  the  end  of  the  week.  The 
best  way  is  to  make  fresh  stock  from  day  to  day,  as  it  is  needed. 

The  ends  of  beefsteak  and  tough  pieces  of  meat  in  general  may  be  made 
into  croquettes,  hash,  rissoles,  etc. 


si 


INTRODUCTION 


Egg-shells  are  used  to  clear  soup  and  coffee  or  jellies.  Boiled  and 
poached  eggs  left  over  may  be  boiled  hard  for  garnishing.  Cold  fried 
or  scrambled  eggs  can  be  mixed  with  minced  meats.  Whites  of  eggs  left 
from  cooking  may  be  used  for  making  angel-food,  kisses,  meringues,  etc. 

Cereals  left  over  may  be  added  next  day  to  the  fresh  stock,  or  may  be 
moulded  and  served  cold,  or  may  be  fried  and  served  as  a vegetable,  or 
with  syrup ; or  left-over  cereals  may  be  added  to  pancake  batter.  Cold 
boiled  rice  is  often  added  to  soup,  or  made  into  croquettes,  etc. 

Sour  milk  makes  good  biscuits,  etc. 

Vegetables  not  used  may  be  added  to  soup  or  ragouts.  Tomatoes, 
pease,  etc.,  may  be  used  in  omelets.  Cold  vegetables  may  be  mixed  and 
served  as  salads.  The  hard  roots  of  celery  may  be  served  as  a vegetable, 
or  to  make  celery  soup,  and  the  top  leaves  may  be  used  for  garnishing. 


HARPER’S 

COOK-BOOK  ENCYCLOPEDIA 


HARPER’S 

COOK-BOOK  ENCYCLOPAEDIA 


A 


Agrodolce.  — Boil  fresh  calf’s  tongue 
or  sheep’s  tongue  until  tender. 
Slice  and  keep  hot  while  you  prepare 
a sour -sweet  sauce  by  heating  a 
gill  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  meat 
was  boiled,  adding  to  it  a table-spoon- 
ful each  of  salad  oil  and  vinegar,  a 
heaping  teaspoonful  each  of  gran- 
ulated sugar,  Sultana  raisins,  and 
almonds,  blanched  and  shredded. 
Add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  The 
real  Italian  agrodolce  has  a large 
table  - spoonful  of  grated  chocolate 
added  to  this  sauce,  which  is  then 
poured  over  the  sliced  tongue.  Sin- 
gular as  the  combination  sounds,  it 
is  yet  very  good. 

A la  Mode,  Beef.  See  Beef. 

Allemande  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Almonds,  Burnt. — Stir  a cupful  of 
water  and  a cupful  of  brown  sugar 
in  a saucepan  until  it  boils ; then 
add  a half-cupful  of  blanched  almonds 
and  keep  stirring  until  the  sugar 
browns  and  begins  to  granulate. 
Take  out  the  almonds  when  they  are 
fully  coated  with  the  sugar.  A 
second  cupful  of  sugar  can  be  boiled 
and  the  burnt  almonds  turned  in  to 
receive  a (Second  coating  of  sugar. 
They  are  then  known  as  sugar 
almonds. 

Almonds,  Salted.  — Blanch  the 
shelled  almonds  by  pouring  scalding 
water  over  them,  and  allowing  them 


to  remain  in  this  until  the  skins 
slip  off  readily.  Spread  the  nuts  on 
a clean  cloth  until  thoroughly  dry. 
Turn  them  into  a baking-pan  with 
enough  olive  oil  to  coat  them,  and 
set  them  in  the  oven  to  brown.  Stir 
them  about  occasionally,  that  all 
may  receive  an  equal  amount  of  heat. 
When  of  a uniform  golden  brown, 
turn,  while  still  hot,  into  a colander, 
and  drain  off  all  superfluous  grease. 
Sprinkle  the  nuts  thickly  with  fine 
table -salt,  tossing  and  stirring  them 
while  doing  so.  Shake  once  more 
in  a dry  colander,  and  spread  on  a 
platter  to  become  cool  and  crisp. 
If  one  objects  to  the  taste  of  oil,  use 
instead  melted  butter. 

Almond  Blanc-mange. 

See  Blanc-mange. 

..  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

..  Puffs. 

..  Wafers. 

..  Custard.  See  Custards. 

..  Force-meat.  See  Force-meats. 

..  Ice.  See  Ices. 

..  and  Orange 

Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

..  Pudding. 

..  Souffle.  See  Souffles. 


Amber  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 
Amber  Soup.  See  Soups. 


American  Sandwiches. 

See  Sandwiches. 


Amherst  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 


Columbia  Public  Liltt  UQ 
Columbia,  Ma. 


Anchovies 


APPLES 


Asparagus 


Anchovies. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  anchovies  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as  in- 
dicated : 

Anchovies  a la  Marseillaise.  See  Fish. 
..  Escalloped. 

..  with  Olives. 

•*  Salad.  .. 

..  Canapes.  See  Sandwiches. 

..  Sandwiches. 

..  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Angel  Cake.  See  Cakes 

..  Food. 

Apples. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  apples  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Apple  (a  la  Cherbourg.)  See  Fruits. 
..  (a  la  Marie.) 

..  and  Rice. 

..  and  Snowball  Rice. 

..  Baked. 

..  Brown  Betty. 

..  Buttered. 

..  Charlotte. 

..  Cobbler. 

..  Cream. 

..  Float. 

..  Fool. 

..  G&teau. 

..  Jellied. 

..  Meringue  of. 

..  Miroton  of. 

..  Pudding. 

..  Snow. 

..  Stewed. 

..  Bread. 

..  Cake. 

..  Cream. 

..  Custard. 

..  Sponge. 

..  Omelet. 

..  Fritters. 

..  Pies. 

..  Charlotte. 

..  Dumpling. 

..  Pudding. 

..  Slump. 

..  Butter. 

..  Crab. 

..  Marmalade. 

..  Preserved  Whole. 

..  Raising. 

..  Salad.  See  Salads. 


Apple  Sauce.  See  Sauces, 

and  Rice  Souffle.  See  Souffles. 

..  Souffle. 

..  Souffle,  Frozen. 

Apricots. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  apricots  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Apricot  (au  Riz.)  See  Fruits. 

..  Cream. 

..  Compote  of. 

..  Paste. 

..  with  Bavarian 

Blanc-mange. 

..  Custard.  See  Custards. 

..  Jam  Tarts.  See  Pies. 

Pie. 

..  Soup  or  Bouillon.  See  Soups. 

Arrow-root  (for  invalids.) — Boil  a 
little  lemon-rind  in  a pint  of  water  for 
fifteen  minutes,  strain,  and  pour  the 
liquid  upon  two  dessert-spoonfuls  of 
arrow-root  which  has  been  previously 
mixed  with  a little  cold  water.  Stir 
briskly,  and  boil  for  a few  minutes, 
then  add  a teaspoonful  of  sugar  and  a 
glassful  of  wine.  Milk  or  cream  may 
be  substituted  for  the  wine. 

Another  way  : — Put  two  teaspoon- 
fuls of  sugar  in  a cupful  of  boiling 
water.  Blend  two  small  table-spoon- 
fuls of  arrow -root  with  a little  cold 
water,  then  stir  it  in  the  boiling  water 
and  add  flavoring.  A table-spoonful 
of  burned  brandy  will  sometimes  be 
an  agreeable  addition. 

Arrow-root  Sauce.  See  Puddings 

Artichokes.  See  Vegetables. 

Asparagus. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  asparagus  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as  in- 
dicated : 

Asparagus  Boiled.  See  Vegetables. 

..  French  method. 

..  Ragout  of. 

..  Tips. 

..  Omelet.  See  Eggs. 

..  Salad.  See  Salads. 

..  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

..  Canapes. 


See  Cakes. 


See  Creams. 
See  Custards. 


See  Eggs. 
See  Fritters. 
See  Pies. 
See  Puddings. 


See  Preserves. 


2 


Soup. 


See  Sandwiches. 
See  Soups. 


Aspic  Essence 


ASPIC  JELLY  Auntie’s  Cakes 


Aspic  Essence. — In  a pint  of  con- 
somme and  half  a gill  of  vinegar  put 
4 ozs.  of  minced  ham,  a little  parsley 
and  mace,  and  let  it  simmer  until 
reduced  one  half.  Strain  through 
a fine  sieve,  clarify  with  white  of  an 
egg,  press  through  a napkin,  and 
use  it  for  roast  poultry. 

Aspic  Jelly. — Two  quarts  of  filtered 
cold  water,  6 ozs.  of  gelatine,  half-pint 
of  French  vinegar,  one  onion,  one  head 
of  celery,  one  bay-leaf,  a sprig  of  thyme, 
thirty  peppercorns,  a little  salt,  a very 
little  cayenne  pepper.  Dissolve  the 
gelatine  in  a small  portion  oj  the  water, 
add  the  rest  of  the  water,  and  set  to 
simmer  in  a stewpan ; let  it  cool,  and 
skim  off  any  impurities.  Have  ready 
the  whites  and  shells  of  four  eggs,  beat 
them  into  the  jelly  over  a brisk  fire  till 


the  eggs  begin  to  coagulate,  then  add 
the  juice  of  a lemon  mixed  with  cold 
water  and  strained.  Put  the  lid  on  the 
stewpan,  simmer  for  a short  time, 
strain  through  a jelly -bag,  and  fill 
the  garnishing  mould,  or  pour  into  a 
shallow  dish,  and  when  cold  cut  into 
shapes  and  use  as  garnish. 

See  also  another  way  of  preparing 
aspic  jelly,  under  Jellies. 

See  also  Game,  Poultry,  etc.,  for 
recipes  of  various  meats,  etc.,  in  Aspic 

Jelly. 

Assorted  Salad.  See  Salads. 

Au  Gratin,  Beef  (with  Macaroni). 

See  Beef. 

Auntie’s  Griddle  Cakes. 

See  Bread. 


Baba  with  Raisins. — Mix  Yz  oz.  of 

German  yeast  and  4 ozs.  of  sifted  flour 
with  warm  water  to  a soft  dough,  and 
put  it  near  the  fire  to  rise.  Rub  1 2 ozs. 
of  butter  into  12  ozs.  of  flour ; work  it 
into  a smooth  paste  with  eight  well- 
beaten  eggs,  1 oz.  of  pounded  sugar, 
and  a little  salt.  When  the  paste  is 
ready  and  the  sponge  sufficiently  risen, 
blend  them  well  together  and  mix  in 

2 ozs.  of  finely  minced  candied  citron- 
peel,  2 ozs.  of  well-dried  currants,  and 

3 ozs.  of  stoned  raisins.  Butter  a 
mould,  fill  it  about  half  full,  and  allow 
it  to  rise  until  it  is  nearly  at  the  top, 
when  it  may  be  baked  at  once  in  a mod- 
erate oven.  Time  to  bake,  one  hour 
and  a half. 


Bacon. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  bacon  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Bacon  and  Calf's  Liver.  See  Pork. 

..  and  Eggs. 

..  and  Lima  Beans. 

..  Boiled. 

..  Broiled. 

..  or  Ham  Omelet. 

..  Salad  Dressing. 

Baden  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

Baked  Custard.  See  Custards. 

Balls,  Beef.  See  Beef. 


Bananas.  — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  bananas  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated : 


Bananas,  Baked. 

..  en  Daube. 
..  Stuffed. 

..  Cream. 

••  Custard. 


See  Fruits. 


See  Creams. 
See  Custards. 


4 


Bananas,  Trifle.  See  Custards. 

..  Fritters.  See  Fritters. 

..  Salad.  See  Salads. 


Banbury  Turnovers.  See  Pies. 
Bannock.  See  Cakes. 


Barberry  Preserves.  See  Preserves. 


Barley. — The  following  recipes  call- 
ing for  barley  will  be  found  under  the 
various  headings  as  indicated  : 

Barley  Scones.  See  Bread. 

..  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

Cream  of.  See  Soups. 

..  Soup. 


Bass,  Boiled. 


See  Fish. 


Bath  Buns. 


See  Bread. 


Batter. — Melt  I oz.  of  butter  by  pour- 
ing over  it  about  an  eighth  of  a pint  of 
boiling  water,  and  again  cool  it  by 
means  of  three-quarters  of  a pint  of 
cold  water.  Mix  it  gradually  and 
smoothly  with  6 ozs.  of  dried  flour. 
A very  little  pinch  of  salt  must  be  put 
to  the  batter  if  it  is  for  fruit,  but  it  will 
require  more  if  the  fritters  are  savory 
ones.  If  the  batter  be  too  thick,  put 
a little  more  water,  and  when  all  is 
ready  beat  up  the  white  of  an  egg  to  a 
froth,  and  stir  it  into  the  batter.  This 
forms  an  excellent  batter  for  apple, 
peach,  or  orange  fritters. 

Batter,  Beefsteak  in.  See  Beef. 

..  Bread.  See  Bread. 

..  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 


Bavarian  Creams.  See  Creams. 


Beans. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  beans  will  be  found  under 


Bearnaise  Sauce 


BEEF 


Beef  Bouilli 


their  respective  headings  as  indi- 
cated : 

Beans,  Boston.  See  Vegetables. 

..  Creamed. 

Croquettes. 

Lima. 

..  String,  Omelet  of. 

Salad  of. 

..  Salad.  See  Salads. 

..  Soup.  See  Soups. 

..  Pork  and.  See  Pork. 


BE 

Beef  is  considered  by  many  the  best 
and  most  wholesome,  as  it  is  certainly 
the  most  economical  meat  that  can 
be  purchased  for  family  use.  It  is 
in  season  all  the  year  round.  The 
heart,  sweetbreads,  and  kidneys 
should  always  be  used  fresh.  Ox 
beef  is  the  best  : the  flesh  is  smoothly 
grained  and  rather  open ; if  the  animal 
is  young  the  meat  rises  when  pressed 
with  the  finger.  The  lean  is  of  a 
bright  red  color,  and  the  fat  white 
rather  than  yellow.  In  roasting, 
baste  often;  a great  deal  depends  on 
this.  Inexperienced  cooks  think  they 
have  done  all  that  is  necessary  when 
they  have  given  it  the  prescribed 
time ; but  without  frequent  basting 
the  meat  will  be  dry  and  indigesti- 
ble. 

In  all  recipes  given  in  this  book 
the  greatest  care  has  been  taken 
to  give  correctly  the  time  required 
for  cooking,  but  it  must  be  remembered 
that  it  is  impossible  to  give  it  exactly 
to  suit  each  case,  because  so  many 
circumstances  tend  to  vary  it,  such 
as  the  age  of  the  animal,  the  time  the 
meat  has  been  kept  after  being  killed, 
the  state  of  the  weather,  the  cooking 
apparatus  used,  and  the  quality  of  the 
fuel.  The  average  only  has  been 
taken,  and  this  being  understood, 
common-sense  must  make  allowance 
for  the  rest.  It  will  be  an  assistance 
to  remember  that  freshly  killed  meat 
requires  more  time  than  that  which 
has  been  kept,  and  also  that  meat  needs 
cooking  rather  longer  in  cold  weather 
than  in  hot. 


Bearnaise  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Beating. — The  object  of  beating  is 
to  get  air  into  the  mixture  and  there- 
by make  the  same  light,  therefore  stir- 
ring must  be  avoided,  as  that 
simply  mingles  the  various  articles 
in  the  mixture  and  drives  out  the 
air. 

Bechamel  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 


EF 

Beef  Balls. — Chop  cold  roast  beef 
very  fine,  freeing  it  from  bits  of  gristle, 
but  leaving  in  the  fat.  To  half  a pint 
of  meat,  put  one  small  cupful  of 
crumbs,  bread  or  cracker,  rolled  and 
sifted  ; salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Moist- 
en the  whole  with  any  soup  or  stock 
you  may  have,  add  a little  Worcester- 
shire sauce,  heat  all  together,  and  then 
stir  in  one  egg  well  beaten.  Set  the 
mixture  away  to  cool.  When  cold, 
form  into  balls,  roll  in  egg  and  fine 
crumbs,  and  fry  in  a wire  basket  for 
two  minutes. 

Beef  Bouilli. — Take  a piece  of  beef 
(say  8 lbs.),  a part  of  the  rump 
being  the  best,  and  put  it  over  the 
fire  in  a pot  of  cold  water.  When 
it  begins  to  boil,  skim  and  add  a little 
fresh  cold  water  to  clear  it.  When 
all  the  scum  has  been  removed,  set 
the  pot  on  the  back  of  the  fire,  where 
the  contents  will  stew  very  gently. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  two 
onions,  four  carrots,  four  turnips,  one 
head  of  celery.  When  these  vege- 
tables are  done,  take  them  out  to 
season  the  soup.  While  the  beef  is 
cooking  make  the  glazing  as  follows  : 
Stew  a piece  of  veal  weighing  2 lbs. 
with  a slice  of  bacon,  and  one  each 
of  the  same  kinds  of  vegetables  that 
were  put  into  the  pot  with  the  beef. 
When  done,  strain  off  the  broth  and 
reduce  to  the  consistence  proper  for 
glazing,  and  pour  it  over  the  bouilli 
at  the  moment  of  serving  it  up.  For 
the  gravy,  work  up  a piece  of  butter 
the  size  of  an  egg  in  a little  flour,  with 


5 


Beef,  Corned, 


BEEF 


Beef,  Dried, 


a small  pickled  cucumber  cut  up 
fine,  one  anchovy,  and  a large  spoon- 
ful of  capers.  Put  it  in  the  same 
saucepan  in  which  the  glazing  was 
prepared,  with  a little  water.  Heat 
it,  stirring  all  the  while,  but  as  soon 
as  it  simmers  take  it  off  and  pour  it 
in  the  sauce-boat.  The  water  in 
which  the  bouilli  was  boiled  makes 
nice  soup  with  the  addition  of  the 
vegetables  before  spoken  of  chopped 
up  and  returned  to  it.  If  preferred, 
they  can  be  strained  out  before  serving 
in  the  tureen. 

Beef,  Corned,  Boiled.  — The  best 
piece  is  off  the  round,  having  a strip 
of  fat.  Put  it  into  cold  water  suf- 
ficient to  cover  it ; let  it  come  slowly 
to  a boil,  and  then  simmer  until  done. 
A half-hour  to  each  pound  will  be 
about  right.  Vegetables  may  be 
added  for  the  last  hour.  If  not  to  be 
used  until  the  next  day,  let  the  meat 
remain  in  the  water  under  pressure ; 
a platter  to  be  placed  on  top  of  the 
meat  and  weighted  down  by  a flat- 
iron, but  the  water  should  not  reach 
the  iron. 

Beef,  Corned,  Hash. 

See  Beef  Hash. 

Beef,  Corned,  Potted. — Take  4 lbs. 
of  corned  beef ; place  in  a pan  with  a 
little  suet  and  water ; bake  in  an  oven  ; 
when  done,  cut  into  small  pieces  and 
pound  in  a mortar  till  it  is  perfectly 
smooth ; season  with  cayenne,  salt, 
pepper,  a little  mace,  some  of  the 
gravy,  and  Yz  lb.  of  melted  butter. 
When  thoroughly  mixed,  put  into 
pots  and  cover  with  melted  butter. 

Beef,  Corned,  Scrapple.  — A 4 -lb. 

piece  of  corned  beef,  brisket,  free  of 
bone,  with  fat  and  lean  mixed.  Put 
it  in  a kettle  that  has  a cover,  and 
then  pour  over  it  sufficient  water  to 
cover  it.  Put  the  lid  on  the  kettle 
and  set  it  on  the  range,  where  it  may 
cook  very  slowly  for  four  or  five  hours, 
or  until  it  is  perfectly  tender.  Then 
take  it  out  of  the  pot,  and  with  the 
water  in  which  it  was  boiled  mix 


enough  plain  water  to  boil  one  break- 
fast cupful  of  hominy  grits  and  two 
cupfuls  of  yellow  corn  meal;  stir  all 
well  while  cooking  (about  half  an  hour 
will  do) ; while  this  is  being  done, 
cut  the  meat  up  in  very  small,  thin 
pieces ; mix  these  pieces  through 
with  the  mush  while  warm,  and  pour 
the  same  into  flat  pans.  Use  a 
little  black  pepper  and  a little  sage 
for  flavoring.  When  cool,  cut  up 
in  slices  and  fry. 

Beef,  Corned,  a la  Soyer,  Boiled. — 

Put  in  the  pot  a piece  weighing  6 lbs. ; 
add  four  quarts  of  cold  water;  boil 
very  gently  for  three  hours.  One 
hour  before  serving  prepare  two 
cabbages,  cut  into  four  pieces,  and 
put  into  the  pot  with  the  meat.  When 
done,  drain  the  cabbage,  and  place 
round  the  beef  on  the  dish,  and  serve. 
Leave  the  broth  from  the  meat  on 
the  fire,  put  in  2 lbs.  of  split  pease, 
a little  pepper  and  brown  sugar ; 
boil  slowly  till  done,  and  put  by, 
uncovered,  for  next  day,  to  use  with 
the  cold  meat.  If  more  salt  or  pepper 
is  required,  add  it ; if,  on  the  contrary, 
it  should  be  too  salt,  add  more  water 
and  1 lb.  of  potatoes.  Or  skim-milk 
may  be  added,  and  about  1 lb.  of 
toasted  bread,  cut  into  slices,  and 
put  into  the  soup  when  serving ; 
or  Yz  lb.  of  flour  mixed  with  a pint 
of  water.  Every  part  of  salted  beef 
may  be  boiled  thus,  using  any  vege- 
tables instead  of  cabbage. 

Beef,  Corned,  Spiced. — Ten  pounds 
of  round  placed  in  a large  bowl  or 
pan,  rub  twice  a day  on  each  side 
with  the  following  mixture  : 1 lb.  of 
brown  sugar,  2 ozs.  of  salt,  one  table- 
spoonful of  saltpetre,  one  of  pul- 
verized allspice,  one  of  cloves,  and  a 
little  pepper.  Make  a brine  strong 
enough  to  bear  an  egg.  When  your 
beef  has  lain  in  the  above  mixture 
twenty-four  hours,  put  in  the  brine, 
pouring  in  all  the  extracted  juice. 
One  week  will  be  sufficient  to  corn. 

Beef,  Dried,  Creamed. — Shave  off 
very  thin  slices  of  dried  beef,  not 


Beef  Croquettes 


BEEF 


Beef,  Fillet  of 


making  the  pieces  too  long ; put  into 
a stewpan  a teacupful  of  cold  water, 
then  the  slices  of  beef ; after  it  sim- 
mers a few  minutes  add  a table- 
spoonful of  butter ; when  this  is 
melted,  take  out  the  meat,  putting 
it  where  it  will  keep  hot ; beat  well 
the  yolk  of  one  egg,  add  slowly  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  cream  or  milk,  in 
which  a teaspoonful  of  flour  has  been 
stirred,  and  pour  it  into  the  boiling 
liquor,  stirring  to  prevent  curdling  ; 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste ; when  it 
has  simmered  a few  minutes,  pour  in 
half  a teacupful  of  cream  or  new 
milk,  and  pour  the  mixture  over  the 
meat. 

Beef  Croquettes,  Cold  Roast. — 

Chop  into  tiny  bits  enough  lean  roast 
beef  to  make  two  cupfuls.  Cook  to- 
gether in  a saucepan  a table-spoonful 
of  butter  and  two  of  flour,  and  when 
these  are  blended  pour  upon  them  two 
cupfuls  of  milk,  to  which  you  have 
added  a pinch  of  baking-soda.  Stir  to 
a smooth  sauce,  then  add  the  minced 
beef  and  remove  from  the  range.  Beat 
in  a few  drops  of  onion  juice,  a dash 
each  of  paprika  and  nutmeg,  and  salt 
to  taste.  Set  aside  until  very  cold, 
then  mould  into  small  croquettes. 
Roll  each  croquette  in  beaten  egg, 
then  in  cracker  dust.  Set  all  in  the 
ice-box  for  two  hours,  then  fry  in  deep, 
boiling  fat.  Drain  free  of  grease  in  a 
hot  colander. 

Beef,  Curried. — Fry  three  onions 
cut  into  slices.  Pour  over  them  a lit- 
tle stock,  add  a sour  apple,  and  sim- 
mer till  tender.  Rub  the  mixture 
through  a fine  sieve,  add  a table- 
spoonful of  curry-paste,  a table-spoon- 
ful of  ground  rice,  and  as  much  stock 
as  is  required  to  make  the  sauce.  Stir 
it  over  the  fire  till  smooth  and  thick, 
put  in  the  dressed  beef,  cut  into  neat 
slices,  simmer  very  gently  for  a short 
time,  and  serve  with  boiled  rice. 

Beef  Fillets  Mignons  aux  Olives 

(in  chafing-dish).  — The  fillets  cut 
from  the  porter  - house  steak  must 
be  nicely  rounded,  dipped  into  very 


good  olive  oil,  sprinkled  on  both 
sides  with  very  little  salt  and  half 
the  quantity  of  pepper.  Do  not  use 
the  hot- water  pan.  Put  in  the  chaf- 
ing-dish two  table-spoonfuls  of  but- 
ter ; melt  it,  do  not  brown  it ; add  the 
fillets ; cook  them  four  minutes  on 
each  side.  Do  not  cover,  and  take 
care  to  keep  the  flame  at  a moderate 
height.  Prepare  two  dozen  of  olives 
in  the  following  way : Take  the 

stones  out  of  the  olives,  being  careful 
to  retain  their  shape ; put  them  three 
minutes  in  boiling  water ; drain  them 
well  in  a napkin.  Remove  the  fillets 
from  the  chafing-dish  and  place  them 
on  a hot  platter.  Put  the  olives  in 
the  gravy  of  the  fillets  for  five  minutes 
and  serve  them  around,  and  the  gravy 
over.  These  fillets  mignons  with 
olives  make  also  an  excellent  entree 
cooked  in  a cocote.  Take  care  to 
turn  the  meat  with  a flat  utensil,  so 
that  it  retains  its  juice. 

Beef,  Fillet  of,  Normandie. — With 
a sharp- pointed  knife  remove  every 
part  of  skin  and  sinews  of  a fillet 
of  beef  of  about  5 lbs.  Cut  in  very 
narrow  strips,  a finger's  length,  1 
lb.  of  larding-pork.  Place  them  in  a 
bowl  of  ice  - water  with  a medium- 
sized larding-needle ; lard  the  top  of 
the  fillet  in  regular  rows,  half  an 
inch  apart.  When  done,  trim  with  a 
pair  of  scissors.  Butter  a baking- 
pan  all  around  with  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter,  put  in  it  all  the  remain- 
ing parts  of  the  larding-pork,  two 
medium-sized  onions,  two  carrots,  the 
root  of  a stalk  of  white  celery,  two 
sprigs  of  parsley,  all  sliced  very  thin. 
Rub  all  over  the  fillet  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one  salt  - spoonful  of  black 
pepper;  place  it  in  the  pan,  and  put 
on  top  one  table -spoonful  of  butter 
divided  in  small  pieces.  Have  a piece 
of  white  paper,  butter  it  on  both  sides, 
cover  the  pan  with  it,  bake  in  a hot 
oven.  After  thirty  minutes,  baste 
and  add  one  gill  of  good  broth,  cook 
thirty  minutes  more,  baste  twice 
during  the  last  half-hour.  Remove 
the  fillet  in  a warm  platter  and  keep 
it  warm  in  the  oven  with  open  door 


Beef,  Galantine 


BEEF 


Beef  Heart 


while  finishing  the  sauce.  Put  the 
baking-pan  over  the  range  and,  add 
to  the  gravy  one  gill  of  broth  and 
one  of  cooking  Madeira  wine.  Cook, 
stirring  gently,  for  five  minutes. 
Strain  the  gravy  in  a small  sauce- 
pan. Skim  off  the  fat  on  the  sur- 
face; put  back  the  gravy  over  the 
fire  and  let  it  come  to  a boil.  Have 
this  thickening  prepared  in  a small 
bowl : Take  two  egg  yolks  and  one 
gill  of  rich  cream,  mix  well  together, 
stop  the  gravy  from  boiling  and  add 
the  thickening,  stir  for  one  minute 
over  the  fire  but  do  not  let  it  boil. 
Pour  over  the  fillet  and  serve  very  hot. 

Beef,  Galantine  of. — Mix  together 
t/z  lb.  of  bread-crumbs,  I lb.  of  sausage 
meat,  some  chopped  parsley,  thyme, 
marjoram,  seasoning,  six  eggs,  and 
spice.  Cut  a piece  of  corned  beef, 
weighing  about  5 or  6 lbs.,  into  a 
large,  thin  sheet ; season  with  pepper 
and  salt;  spread  the  force-meat  over 
it ; sprinkle  some  mushrooms  over 
the  meat,  and  roll  it  up  verj^  tightly ; 
tie  in  a cloth,  and  boil  on  a slow  fire 
for  five  hours;  when  done,  take  it  up 
and  place  between  two  dishes  with  a 
weight  on  top;  when  cold,  trim  the 
ends  and  glaze. 

Beef  au  Gratin,  with  Macaroni. — 

This  is  one  of  the  best  ways  to  serve 
beef  which  has  been  used,  the  day 
before,  to  make  broth,  or,  in  fact, 
any  kind  of  left-over  beef.  Cut  the 
meat  in  thin  slices,  butter  well  a 
baking-pan  and  place  them  in  it, 
each  slice  lapping  over  the  other. 
Leave  sufficient  room  around  the 
baking-pan  for  the  macaroni.  Cook 
one  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion 
in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  for 
four  minutes ; do  not  brown.  Re- 
move from  the  fire,  and  add  one 
table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  salt-spoonful 
of  pepper,  add  one  gill  of  beef  broth, 
and  mix.  Pour  over  the  meat  in 
the  baking-pan.  Put  Y/z  lb.  of  maca- 
roni in  two  quarts  of  boiling  water 
seasoned  with  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  butter. 


Cook  forty-five  minutes.  Remove  and 
drain  well,  put  it  back  in  the  sauce- 
pan with  one  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
l/\  lb.  of  grated  Swiss  or  any  other 
dry  cheese,  one  salt-spoonful  of  black 
pepper.  Mix  well,  and  have  it  as 
hot  as  possible  without  boiling. 
Arrange  it  around  the  baking -pan. 
Sprinkle  all  over  the  dish  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  the  grated  cheese  mixed 
with  two  table  - spoonfuls  of  white 
bread-crumbs.  Finish  on  the  top 
with  one  table  - spoonful  of  butter 
divided  in  small  pieces.  Place  in  the 
hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Send 
the  platter  as  it  is  to  the  table. 

Beef  Hash.  — Two  parts  of  cold 
roast  beef,  freed  from  fat  and  chopped 
fine  ; one  part  of  cold  potatoes,  chopped 
fine ; a little  pepper,  salt,  milk,  and 
melted  butter.  Turn  into  a frying- 
pan  and  stir  until  it  is  heated  through, 
but  not  brown;  put  into  a deep  dish 
and  form  into  a hillock.  Or,  cease 
stirring  for  a few  minutes,  and  let  a 
brown  crust  form ; then  serve  in  a 
round  dish,  with  the  crust  uppermost. 
The  hash  may  also  be  served  on  small 
squares  of  toast. 

Corned  Beef  Hash  is  made  in  pre- 
cisely the  same  way.  never  allowing, 
however,  a crust  to  form ; serve  with 
poached  eggs  on  top. 

Beef  Heart.  — Wash  the  heart  in 
several  waters,  clean  the  blood  care- 
fully from  the  pipes,  and  put  it  to 
soak  in  vinegar  and  water  for  two 
hours  or  more.  Drain  it  and  fill 
it  either  with  force-meat  or  sage-and- 
onion  stuffing.  Fasten  it  securely, 
tie  it  in  a cloth,  put  it  into  a pan  of 
boiling  water,  and  let  it  simmer  gently 
for  two  hours.  Take  off  the  cloth, 
and  roast  the  heart  while  hot,  basting 
it  plentifully  with  good  dripping  for 
two  hours  longer.  Serve  with  good 
brown  gravy  and  currant  jelly,  if 
veal  force-meat  has  been  used,  and 
apple  jelly  if  the  heart  has  been  stuffed 
with  sage  and  onions.  The  stewing 
may  be  omitted,  and  the  heart  simply 
roasted  for  three  or  four  hours,  but 
the  meat  will  not  then  be  so  tender, 

8 


Beef,  Jellied 


BEEF 


Beef  a la  Mode 


Beef,  Jellied.  — Soak  and  clean 
four  calf's  feet ; boil  until  done ; 
strain  and  separate  the  meat  from 
the  bones,  and  set  aside  to  cool ; pour 
the  liquor  into  a jar,  and  when  cold 
remove  the  grease.  Take  a shank 
of  beef  and  boil  it  until  the  meat  falls 
in  pieces ; remove  it  from  the  liquor. 
Cut  the  meat  from  the  calf's  feet  and 
the  beef  into  small  pieces ; put  the 
jelly  into  a pan;  add  to  it  the  meat; 
mix  well  together,  and  heat  to  the 
boiling-point.  Season  with  red  pep- 
per and  salt  to  taste ; pour  into  a 
mould  to  set. 

Beef  Kidney,  Stewed. — Soak  two 
nice  beef  kidneys  in  cold  water  one 
hour,  then  with  a very  sharp  knife 
cut  them  in  small  pieces,  taking 
care  to  reject  all  fat  and  gristle.  While 
cutting  the  kidneys  throw  each  bit 
as  cut  into  cold  water.  Wash  them 
well,  and  put  them  in  a saucepan 
with  a pint  of  cold  water  to  each 
kidney.  Slice  a small  onion,  add 
also  two  bay  - leaves,  two  or  three 
sprigs  of  parsley,  and  celery  stalks  if 
you  have  them.  If  not,  add  instead 
a teaspoonful  of  celery  seed  and  two 
or  three  cloves.  Skim  when  it  boils 
up;  then  cover  and  simmer  slowly 
three  hours.  Turn  into  a dish.  If 
wanted  for  breakfast  the  next  morn- 
ing, make  a roux  of  a table-spoonful  of 
butter  and  flour,  and  heat  thoroughly. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper,  Worcester- 
shire sauce,  and  lemon  juice.  Serve 
very  hot  with  bits  of  lemon. 

Beef  Liver  Scallops,  Broiled. — Cut 

in  thin  slices  2 lbs.  of  fresh  beef 
liver.  Pour  in  a plate  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  melted  butter,  one  heap- 
ing teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  black  pepper.  Beat  well, 
and  dip  each  slice  in  it  on  both  sides. 
Have  one  pint  of  freshly  made  bread- 
crumbs, roll  the  slices  in  it,  put  over 
the  broiler  and  broil  them  three  min- 
utes on  each  side.  Remove  the  rind 
of  I lb.  of  bacon,  cut  it  in  very  thin 
slices,  and  broil  them  two  minutes 
on  each  side.  Dress  the  scallops  on 
a hot  platter,  one  overlapping  the 


other,  and  the  broiled  bacon  around 
it.  Chop  fine  one  table-spoonful  of 
parsley,  and  mix  it  well  with  two 
table  - spoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 
Warm  up  one  table-spoonful  of  vine- 
gar, add,  and  serve  as  a sauce. 

Beef  a la  Mode. — Tie  up  a small 
round  of  beef  to  keep  it  in  shape; 
make  a stuffing  of  bread,  butter, 
and  any  seasoning  you  like,  as  you 
would  for  a fowl ; cut  holes  in  the  beef 
with  a skewer,  and  put  in  half  of  the 
stuffing  ; tie  the  beef  up  in  a cloth  and 
just  cover  it  with  water,  and  let  it 
boil  an  hour  and  a half,  or  until  it 
is  tender ; then  turn  the  liquor  off 
and  let  the  beef  brown  over  a slow 
fire ; turn  it  often,  keeping  enough 
gravy  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan  to 
prevent  the  meat  from  becoming  too 
dry.  Baste  it  well  from  time  to  time. 
Then  take  it  out  and  add  a little  water, 
into  which  lay  the  rest  of  the  stuffing, 
made  up  into  balls.  When  done, 
they  are  served  in  the  same  dish  as 
the  beef,  and  are  ranged  around  it  so 
as  to  be  symmetrical.  A garnish 
of  sliced  carrots  and  pickles  improves 
both  looks  and  flavor  of  the  beef. 

Another  way  : — Select  about  6 or 
8 lbs.  out  of  the  round,  free  of  bone, 
and  a tender,  juicy  piece.  Cut  gashes 
in  it  so  as  to  go  nearly  all  the  way 
through,  and  insert  strips  of  fat  salt 
pork  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness. 
If  possible,  pull  the  pork  through 
on  the  under  side.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Tie  as  tightly  to- 
gether as  possible  with  strong  twine, 
making  the  meat  as  round  and  com- 
pact as  you  can.  Allow  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  whole  cloves  to  this 
quantity  of  meat,  sticking  them  on 
the  outside.  A few  blades  of  mace 
stuck  in  are  an  improvement,  and 
garlic,  if  wished.  When  the  meat 
is  prepared,  put  it  info  a large  stew- 
pan,  setting  it  on  the  back  part  of 
the  stove,  and  adding  no  water,  as 
the  essence  of  the  meat  soon  runs  out. 
Let  it  cook  slowly  five  hours,  keeping 
it  covered  all  the  time,  and  turn  it 
once  or  twice.  When  nearly  done, 
pour  over  it  three  table-spoonfuls  of 

9 


Beef  a la  Mode 


BEEF 


Beef  Ox-tail 


lemon-juice  and  half  a gill  of  strong 
brandy,  basting  it  every  few  minutes. 
When  done,  remove  the  strings. 

Beef  a la  Mode,  Cold. — With  a 
large  larding-needle  lard  a rump  piece 
of  beef  weighing  about  4 lbs.  with  Yz 
lb.'  of  larding -pork  cut  in  a dozen 
strips.  Tie  the  meat  to  give  a per- 
fectly round  shape.  Melt  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  butter  in  a saucepan, 
and  put  in  the  meat,  with  one  car- 
rot and  two  large  onions,  sliced. 
Brown  the  meat  well  on  all  sides  for 
fifteen  minutes.  Pour  over  a quart 
and  a half  of  warm  bouillon,  one 
large  glassful  of  white  wine,  and 
add  two  calf's  feet  that  have  been 
previously  cut  in  four  pieces  and 
boiled  for  ten  minutes  in  salted  water. 
Season  with  one-half  table-spoonful 
of  salt,  one  salt-spoonful  of  pepper, 
two  cloves,  and  a bouquet.  Leave 
the  cover  of  the  saucepan  slightly 
loose,  and  cook  slowly  but  constantly 
for  two  hours  and  a half.  Add  three 
bunches  of  very  small  new  carrots. 
Cook  half  an  hour  more.  Remove 
the  meat  to  a round  china  bowl,  and 
take  off  the  string.  Bone  the  calf's 
feet;  place  the  nicest  pieces  upward 
alongside  of  the  edge  of  the  bowl ; 
put  one  carrot  straight  up  between 
each  piece  of  calf's  foot  so  as  to  make 
a crown  around  the  meat,  afterwards 
adding  the  remaining  small  pieces. 
Strain  the  gravy,  which  should  be 
clear,  through  a silk  strainer  or  a 
clean  napkin  previously  dipped  in 
cold  water.  When  it  has  stood  in 
a cool  place  for  two  hours,  skim  and 
pour  over  the  meat.  Be  careful  not 
to  disturb  the  symmetry  of  the  dish. 
The  next  day  turn  out  carefully  on  a 
round  platter ; it  should  be  in  one 
solid  piece,  with  the  gravy  transparent. 
To  garnish  with  small  tomatoes,  put 
the  latter  in  a saucepan  with  enough 
cold  water  to  cover  them,  and  boil 
slowly  for  ten  minutes.  Remove 
the  skins  and  cool  them.  Cut  a 
small,  round  piece  from  the  stem  end, 
empty  the  seeds,  drain  well,  and 
sprinkle  with  a little  salt.  Put  in 
each  one  table-spoonful  of  the  gravy 


of  the  meat  and  two  small  carrots. 
Set  on  ice  until  ready  to  serve,  then 
arrange  them  around  the  meat. 
If  no  bouillon  is  at  hand,  one  good 
teaspoonful  of  meat  extract  diluted 
in  the  same  quantity  of  warm  water 
as  that  of  bouillon  may  be  substituted. 
Double  the  quantity  of  salt  and  pepper. 
Do  not  omit  the  wine,  which  makes 
the  meat  more  tender  and  absorbs 
the  fat. 

Beef  Ox-tail  with  Puree  of  Len- 
tils.— Cut  in  pieces  two  inches  long 
two  ox-tails ; wash  well  in  cold  wa- 
ter, and  drain  them.  Put  them 
in  three  quarts  of  cold  water,  boil 
for  ten  minutes ; drain  and  dry 
them  with  a clean  towel.  Put  them 
in  a saucepan  with  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter,  Y2  lb.  of  bacon  cut  in 
small  pieces,  dicelike,  one  large 
carrot,  two  red  onions  cut  in  thin 
slices.  Put  over  a brisk  fire  for 
twelve  minutes,  stirring  so  that 
every  piece  will  brown;  season  with 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  black  pepper,  a bouquet 
of  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  branch 
of  celery  without  leaves,  two  cloves, 
one  small  bay-leaf,  and  a tiny  branch 
of  thyme.  Cook  one  hour  and  fifteen 
minutes ; remove  the  pieces  and  let 
them  cool  off.  Keep  the  broth  aside 
to  be  used  later  on  as  a soup,  then 
dip  each  piece  in  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  melted  butter,  and  then  in  white 
bread-crumbs ; do  this  twice,  and 
afterwards  pour  a little  butter  over 
each.  Broil  them  over  a moderate 
fire  for  twenty  minutes.  Have  this 
puree  of  lentils  prepared  beforehand  : 
Wash  well  one  quart  of  lentils.  You 
should  look  them  over  carefully  and 
put  them  in  a saucepan  with  two 
quarts  of  cold  water,  two  whole  red 
onions,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one 
salt-spoonful  of  pepper,  a bouquet 
of  one  small  bay-leaf,  three  sprigs  of 
parsley,  one  small  branch  of  celery, 
and  two  cloves.  After  they  have 
started  boiling,  remove  to  a slow 
fire  and  cook  three  hours.  Add  ev- 
ery hour  a quarter  of  a glass  of  cold 
water ; this  will  make  them  taste 


10 


Beef,  Pressed 


BEEF 


Beef,  Roast 


like  fresh  ones  and  swell  them  up. 
After  they  are  done,  pass  them 
through  a strainer,  to  make  the  puree 
very  fine ; add  a little  of  the  broth 
from  time  to  time  to  help  the  straining. 
Put  the  pur6e  back  in  a clean  sauce- 
pan long  enough  to  warm ; add  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  very  fresh  butter. 
Do  not  boil.  Serve  this  around  the 
ox -tail.  Arrange  over  it  the  small 
slices  of  bacon  from  the  broth.  By 
adding  the  remaining  broth  of  the 
lentils  to  the  ox-tail  broth,  it  will 
make  a very  wholesome  soup.  Put 
one  table-spoonful  of  butter  in  the 
soup-tureen,  and  strain  the  broth 
over,  crushing  everything  through 
the  colander.  A few  dice  of  bread 
browned  in  butter  will  give  it  a nice 
finish.  Dry  beans  cooked  in  the 
same  way  are  very  good. 

Beef,  Pressed.  — Take  any  num- 
ber of  pounds  of  the  brisket  of  beef, 
as  lean  as  can  be  obtained,  and  nicely 
salted.  The  beef  may  be  bought 
salted  of  the  butcher  or  it  may  be 
salted  at  home.  To  do  this,  dissolve 
% oz.  of  saltpetre  in  a little  water, 
and  mix  with  it  2 lbs.  of  common  salt 
and  x/i  lb.  of  moist  sugar.  Rub  this 
pickle  into  the  meat  every  morning 
for  eight  days,  and  turn  it  over  each 
day.  Take  it  from  the  pan,  drain,  and 
bone  it.  The  butcher  will  do  this,  if 
desired.  Put  it  into  a saucepan  with 
as  much  lukewarm  water  as  will  quite 
cover  it,  and  put  with  it  an  onion  stuck 
with  two  cloves,  a large  carrot,  and  a 
bay-leaf.  Let  the  water  boil  up  once, 
skim  carefully,  then  draw  the  sauce- 
pan quite  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and 
simmer  the  meat  as  gently  as  possible 
till  it  is  done  enough.  Lift  the  sauce- 
pan quite  away  from  the  fire,  and 
leave  the  meat  in  the  liquor  for  half  an 
hour.  Take  it  out  carefully,  drain 
it,  place  it  between  two  flat  dishes,  and 
put  a heavy  weight  on  the  top.  Let 
it  remain  until  the  next  day.  Take 
off  the  weight,  and  glaze  the  beef. 
Place  the  jar  with  the  glaze  in  a sauce- 
pan with  about  two  inches  of  boiling 
water,  and  let  it  steam  until  the  glaze 
is  dissolved.  The  water  in  the  sauce- 


pan must  not  be  allowed  to  flow  over 
into  the  jar.  Take  an  ordinary  brush 
which  has  been  soaked  in  hot  water 
to  make  it  soft,  and  with  it  cover  the 
surface  of  the  meat  entirely  with  the 
dissolved  glaze.  It  ought  to  be  laid 
lightly  on  rather  than  brushed  on, 
so  as  not  to  show  the  marks  of  the 
brush.  When  one  coating  of  glaze  is 
quite  stiff,  give  the  meat  a second  one, 
and,  if  liked,  a third.  Place  the  meat 
on  a dish,  garnish  with  parsley,  and 
it  is  ready  for  serving.  Time  to  sim- 
mer the  meat,  half  an  hour  per  pound 
from  the  time  the  water  boils  after  the 
meat  is  put  in. 

Beef,  Ragout. — Take  equal  quanti- 
ties of  good  gravy  and  boiling  water 
— a pint  in  all.  Pour  it  into  a stew- 
pan  in  which  2 lbs.  of  cold  roast  beef, 
sliced,  have  been  put.  Add  five  or 
six  small  onions,  some  mixed  spices, 
pepper,  and  salt  to  taste,  and  let  the 
whole  stew  very  gently  until  tender, 
which  will  be  in  about  two  hours. 
Before  serving,  add  capers  and  pickled 
walnuts  to  the  gravy. 

Beef  Rissoles. — Cut  slices  from  the 
roasted  joint,  or  take  pieces  of  beef- 
steak left  from  dinner,  chop  them  very 
fine,  freeing  them  from  all  bits  of  gris- 
tle. If  salt  pork  is  liked,  chop  a slice 
of  it  with  the  beef.  To  one  teacupful 
of  beef  add  one  teacupful  of  grated 
bread;  if  it  is  very  stale,  moisten  it 
with  milk,  and  chop  with  the  meat; 
add  one  well-beaten  egg,  salt,  pepper, 
a sprinkle  of  allspice,  and,  if  desired, 
a small  onion,  finely  chopped,  for 
flavoring.  Mix  all  well  together;  if 
the  bread  used  is  not  softened,  add  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  sweet  milk ; flour  the 
hands,  and  roll  up  the  mixture  into 
good-sized  balls ; fry  in  hot  lard  or  in 
beef  drippings.  Serve  on  a platter,  and 
garnish  with  sprigs  of  parsley  and 
pickled  beet-root  sliced.  Mutton,  lamb, 
and  veal  can  be  used  instead  of  beef. 

Beef,  Roast  (English). — The  fore- 
rib is  the  best  roasting  piece.  Put  the 
meat  down  before  a nice,  clear  fire, 
put  some  dripping  into  the  pan,  dredge 


ii 


Beef,  Roast 


BEEF 


Beefsteak 


the  joint  with  a little  flour,  and  keep 
continually  basting.  When  thorough- 
ly done,  put  upon  a hot  dish,  and 
sprinkle  a little  salt  over  the  joint. 
Pour  a little  boiling  water  into  the 
dripping,  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  strain  it  over  the  meat. 

Beef,  Roast. — While  roasting  be- 
fore a fire  is  unquestionably  the  best 
method,  few  American  kitchens  are 
arranged  for  this.  As  a rule,  “roast 
beef"  means  baked  beef.  The  most 
expensive  cuts  are  the  sirloin  and 
tenderloin,  then  the  rib  roasts.  The 
meat  should  be  bright  red,  the  fat 
white  and  in  streaks.  If  the  roast  is 
rolled,  have  the  butcher  send  the  bones 
with  the  roll.  They  will  serve  for 
making  soup  stock.  The  best  sauce 
for  roast  beef  is  the  juice  of  the  meat 
with  the  fat  drained  off.  Put  the 
roast  on  a rack  which  will  keep  it 
from  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Dredge 
it  top  and  sides  with  flour.  (The 
dredging  with  flour  is  frequently 
omitted.)  Put  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  dripping  in  the  pan,  with  a little 
salt  and  pepper.  The  oven  should  be 
very  hot  for  the  first  quarter  of  an 
hour,  after  that  shut  off  the  draughts 
and  keep  the  oven  moderately  hot ; 
baste  frequently.  Time  for  cooking 
a 6 or  8 lb.  rib  roast  rare,  about  ten 
minutes  to  the  pound  ; a rolled  roast, 
about  twelve  minutes  to  the  pound. 

Yorkshire  Pudding  (to  serve  with 
roast  beef)  should  be  brown  and  crisp, 
and  is  served  hot  with  the  roast  beef. 
When  the  joint  is  within  twenty  min- 
utes of  being  done,  pour  off  the  fat, 
place  the  joint  on  the  wire  stand  in 
the  centre  of  the  pan,  and  pour  the 
pudding  batter  all  round  the  meat  and 
bake  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  min- 
utes. Enough  batter  for  four  people 
consists  of  one  pint  of  milk,  one  tea- 
cupful of  flour,  four  to  six  eggs,  and 
salt  to  taste.  The  eggs  should  be 
beaten  separately,  the  whites  added 
last. 

Beef,  Round  of,  Spiced.  — One 
ounce  of  powdered  cayenne  pepper. 


x/z  oz.  of  cloves,  Yz  oz.  of  allspice, 
and  two  nutmegs.  Rub  into  your 
beef  first  I oz.  of  saltpetre,  then  a 
cupful  of  sugar  and  two  handfuls 
of  salt.  Break  up  the  spices  fine, 
and  add  them,  laying  the  round  in  a 
large  bowl  or  other  covered  vessel 
tight  enough  to  hold  the  brine  that 
will  be  formed.  Turn  the  beef  every 
morning,  rubbing  the  spices  in  with 
the  hand.  It  may  be  cooked  in  a 
fortnight,  or  left  for  six  weeks.  Stew 
in  a pot,  with  beef  suet  strewed  fine 
over  it.  Add  some  beef  gravy,  or  a 
quart  of  water  and  a bottle  of  port 
wine  or  claret.  It  must  be  done  slow- 
ly, taking  care  to  keep  in  the  steam. 
It  will  require  three  or  four  hours, 
perhaps  five,  according  to  the  size. 
Cook  it  also  in  the  pickle  drawn  from 
the  beef,  adding  three  or  four  gallons 
of  boiling  water.  Take  care  that 
the  beef  does  not  touch  the  vessel 
in  which  it  is  boiled.  If  you  choose, 
you  majT  tie  it  in  a cloth,  or  wrap  it  in 
a coarse  paste  made  for  the  purpose. 

Beef,  Rump  of  (bouilli  fashion). 
— Take  the  bone  out  of  a rump  of 
beef,  wash  the  beef,  and  then  pour 
a gill  of  vinegar  over  it.  Dredge  it 
well  with  flour,  and  put  it  into  a pot 
large  enough  to  turn  conveniently; 
pour  over  it  three  pints  of  water ; 
then  put  the  pot  over  the  fire  until 
it  boils.  Prepare  and  cut  into  small 
pieces  cabbages,  carrots,  potatoes, 
and  turnips,  and  add  to  the  beef ; 
also  two  onions,  sliced,  and  a sprig 
of  sweet  marjoram.  Season  all  with 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  salt,  and  nearly 
one  of  pepper.  It  should  be  kept 
stewing  constantly,  but  slowly,  at 
least  five  hours.  As  there  will  not 
be  fiquor  enough  to  cover  the  beef, 
it  should  be  frequently  turned  over 
in  the  pot.  Pickled  capers,  or  cu- 
cumbers cut  into  small  pieces,  are  a 
great  improvement  to  the  sauce. 

Beefsteak. — A nice  way  of  cooking 
beefsteak  is  to  lay  it  on  the  bottom  of 
the  dripping-pan  in  the  oven.  Have 
ready  in  a large  plate  a lump  of  butter 
with  boiling  water  poured  over  it. 


Beefsteak 


BEEF 


Beefsteak 


As  soon  as  the  steak  warms  up,  pour 
this  into  the  dish ; turn  it  over  two  or 
three  times,  pressing  it  down  with  the 
knife.  The  oven  should  not  be  too 
hot,  and  for  a 3-lb.  piece  it  will  take 
about  half  an  hour  to  cook.  Baste 
it  often,  and  at  the  last  add  salt  and 
pepper  to  the  water.  You  can  make 
a thickened  gravy,  if  you  desire,  of 
the  water  and  butter  in  which  you 
basted  it.  Steak  cooked  in  this  way 
is  very  tender  and  juicy. 

Beefsteak  in  Batter.  — Have  the 
butcher  cut  a couple  of  steaks  not  more 
than  a quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  The 
nicest  are,  of  course,  fillets  mignons, 
or  slices  cut  from  the  tenderloin,  but 
ordinary  porter-house  or  "short”  or 
‘ ‘ Delmonico  ” steak  may  be  used,  if 
the  meat  is  tender.  Each  should  be 
about  three  or  four  inches  square. 
Make  a batter  of  a cupful  of  flour,  a 
table-spoonful  of  cold  water,  a beaten 
egg,  and  a salt-spoonful  of  salt.  Dip 
each  slice  of  beef  in  this,  drop  into 
boiling,  deep  fat,  cook  to  a golden 
brown,  drain,  and  serve. 

♦ 

Beefsteak,  Hamburg. — Two  pounds 
of  lean  beef  cut  from  the  round,  and 
have  your  butcher  chop  it  fine.  Mix 
with  it  two  teaspoonfuls  of  minced 
onion,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley.  With 
the  hands,  form  this  mixture  into  cakes 
or  balls.  Fry  brown  in  a little  butter 
or  clarified  dripping.  Arrange  the 
cakes  on  a platter,  and  set  them  in  the 
oven  while  you  make  a sauce  as  fol- 
lows*: Cook  in  a saucepan  a table- 
spoonful each  of  browned  flour  and 
butter.  When  they  bubble,  pour  upon 
them  a half-pint  of  beef  stock,  and  stir 
to  ja.  smooth,  brown  sauce.  Season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  a little  kitchen 
bouquet.  Pour  this  sauce  over  and 
around  the  steaks. 

Beefsteak  with  Mushrooms. — Broil 
your  steak  over  a clear  fire.  Before 
you  put  it  on,  open  a can  of  mush- 
rooms, take  out  half  of  them,  and  cut 
each  mushroom  in  two.  Saute  them 
in  a frying-pan  with  a little  butter. 


unless  you  have  a cupful  of  bouillon  or 
clear  beef  soup  or  gravy  at  hand.  Let 
them  simmer  in  this  for  ten  minutes, 
and  when  you  dish  your  steak  pour 
gravy  and  mushrooms  over  it.  Leave 
it  covered  in  the  oven  five  minutes  be- 
fore sending  to  table. 

Beefsteak  with  Onions. — Select  a 
cut  of  one  and  a half  inch  in  thick- 
ness and  weighing  about  3 lbs.  from 
a rump  of  beef.  Lay  the  steak  over 
the  meat-board,  and  with  the  rolling- 
pin  beat  it  on  each  side  for  one  minute  ; 
this  will  make  the  meat  more  tender. 
Season  each  side  with  one  levelled  tea- 
spoonful of  salt  and  one  salt-spoonful 
of  black  pepper.  Put  in  a skillet  two 
large  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  and 
when  hot,  not  brown,  put  in  the  steak. 
Cook  fifteen  minutes  on  each  side, 
not  fast,  uncovered.  Be  careful  when 
turning  the  meat  not  to  prick  it,  in 
order  to  retain  all  the  juice.  Prepare 
beforehand  one  pint  of  large  red 
onions.  Peel  them,  and  cook  whole 
twenty  minutes  in  plenty  of  boiling 
water  seasoned  with  salt.  Drain  them 
well,  and  slice  quite  fine  and  evenly. 
Remove  the  steak  in  a platter;  keep 
warm  in  the  oven,  with  door  open. 
Put  the  sliced  onions  in  the  saucepan 
with  the  gravy  of  the  steak.  Spread 
them  and  cook  them  to  a golden  color. 
Bake  two  bunches  of  medium-sized  red 
beets  as  you  do  potatoes.  Peel  and 
slice  them;  add  to  the  onions  just 
long  enough  to  warm  them  through. 
Spread  over  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  salt-spoonful  of  black  pepper,  one 
and  a half  table  - spoonfuls  of  wine 
vinegar,  and  mix  gently,  so  as  not  to 
break  the  vegetables.  Dress  around 
the  meat,  sprinkle  over  it  one  table- 
spoonful of  finely  chopped  parsley. 
Serve  very  hot. 

Beefsteak  with  Oyster  Sauce. — The 

steak  should  be  about  an  inch  thick, 
tender,  and  juicy.  Have  the  gridiron 
hot,  and  rub  with  a small  piece  of  but- 
ter to  prevent  the  meat  sticking.  Broil 
it  carefully,  and  do  not  season  until 
done  ; then  lay  in  a dish,  cover  tightly, 
and  keep  it  hot.  In  a very  little  juice, 

13 


Beefsteak 


BEEF 


Beef-tea 


stew  twenty  or  thirty  oysters ; season, 
and  add  a little  cream ; pour  hot  over 
the  steak,  and  serve. 

Beefsteak  Pie. — Take  a pie-dish  ac- 
cording to  the  size  required ; 2 lbs.  of 
fresh  rump  steak  cut  into  long,  thin 
strips  will  make  a good  pie;  lay  out 
the  strips  with  a small  piece  of  fat  on 
each,  a seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper, 
and  a dust  of  flour ; two  teaspoonfuls 
of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper 
will  be  sufficient  for  the  whole  pie ; roll 
up  each  strip  neatly  and  lay  it  in  the 
dish,  and  between  each  layer  sprinkle  a 
little  of  the  seasoning  and  flour ; a shred 
onion  or  shallot  is  sometimes  liked, 
and  a few  oysters  will  be  a great  im- 
provement; put  an  edging  of  paste 
round  the  dish,  and  pour  in  water 
enough  to  cover  the  rolls  of  meat,  and 
lay  a crust  of  about  half  an  inch  thick 
over  all ; ornament  the  top  tastefully, 
and  bake  for  two  hours  in  a moderate 
oven. 

Beefsteak,  Savory. — Take  2 lbs.  of 
beefsteak,  slice  it  thin,  and  cover  it  with 
stuffing  made  as  follows  : Rub  I oz.  of 
dripping  into  six  table-spoonfuls  of 
stale  bread-crumbs ; mix  with  a little 
sage,  two  small  onions,  chopped  very 
fine,  a little  pepper  and  salt ; mix  with 
cold  milk ; roll  up  the  steak,  and  fast- 
en with  a string  to  keep  the  stuffing  in. 
Roast  before  a brisk  fire,  and  baste 
with  dripping. 

Beefsteak,  Sirloin  (in  chafing- 
dish). — A cut  from  2 to  2^  lbs.  will 
make  a delicious  .steak  sufficient  for 
six  persons,  being  a change  from 
roast  beef.  It  is  easily  cooked  on  the 
chafing-dish.  Put  an  earthen  cocote 
directly  over  a moderate  flame.  Put 
one  table-spoonful  of  butter  in  it.  Sea- 
son the  meat  with  one  salt-spoonful  of 
salt  and  half  a salt-spoonful  of  pepper 
on  each  side.  When  the  butter  is 
melted,  put  in  the  steak.  Cook  each 
side  twelve  minutes,  not  covered. 
When  you  turn  over  the  meat  be  care- 
ful not  to  prick  it,  so  that  it  shall  re- 
tain all  its  juice.  Mix  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  finely  chopped  parsley  with  one 


table-spoonful  of  fresh  butter,  and  add 
a dozen  drops  of  lemon.  In  about 
twenty-four  minutes  put  out  the  flame 
and  spread  this  butter  over ; serve  di- 
rectly in  the  cocote. 

Beef  Stew,  Irish.  — Put  slices  of 
lean  beef  in  a stewpan  with  plenty 
of  water  or  beef  stock.  Add  two  or 
three  onions  cut  in  quarters,  a little 
celery  in  small  pieces,  some  cold 
potatoes  whole,  or  if  very  large  cut  in 
quarters ; salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Let  the  stew  simmer  gently  until  the 
potatoes  are  soft  and  have  absorbed 
most  of  the  gravy. 

Beef  Stew  with  Okra. — Take  scraps 
of  cold  meat  from  bones  of  beef,  break 
the  bones,  put  in  a pot,  and  cover 
with  cold  water.  Boil  and  skim 
take  out  the  bones,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper;  put  in  half  a gallon  of 
chopped  okra,  one  onion,  one  potato, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  extract  of 
celery.  Let  boil  until  the  vegetables 
are  cooked,  put  in  the  meat,  chopped 
fine,  let  heat,  and  take  up. 

Beef  Stew  with  Tomatoes. — Slice 
3 lbs.  of  lean  beef  and  seven  moderate- 
sized tomatoes  with  one  onion.  Cut 
the  tomatoes  up  into  small  pieces, 
and  chop  the  onion  fine.  Stew  slow- 
ly ; add  salt,  a few  cloves,  and,  just 
before  it  is  done,  a little  butter  and 
half  a gill  of  catsup. 

Beef-tea  from  Fresh  Meat  (Baron 

Liebig’s  recipe).  —Take  I lb.  of  lean 
beef,  entirely  free  from  fat  and  sinew ; 
mince  it  finely  and  mix  it  well  with  one 
pint  of  cold  water.  Heat  very  gradually 
for  two  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time 
add  half  a teaspoonful  of  salt  and  boil 
gently  for  ten  minutes.  Remove  the 
scum  as  it  rises.  This  is  beef-tea  pure 
and  simple.  When  a change  of  flavor 
is  required,  it  is  a good  plan  to  take 
I lb.  of  meat,  composed  of  equal  parts 
of  veal,  mutton,  and  beef,  and  proceed 
as  above.  Or,  instead  of  using  water, 
boil  a carrot,  a turnip,  an  onion,  and 
a clove  in  a pint  of  water,  and  when 
the  flavor  is  extracted  strain  the  liquid 


Beef  Tenderloin 


BEEF 


Beef  Tongue 


through  a fine  sieve;  let  it  get  quite 
cold,  and  pour  it  upon  the  minced 
meat,  soaking  and  boiling  it  for  the 
same  time. 

Beef,  Tenderloin  of. — To  serve  ten- 
derloin as  directed  below,  the  whole 
piece  must  be  extracted  before  the  hind- 
quarter  of  the  animal  is  cut  out.  This 
must  be  particularly  noted,  because 
not  commonly  practised,  the  tender- 
loin being  usually  left  attached  to  the 
roasting  pieces,  in  order  to  furnish  a 
tidbit  for  a few.  To  dress  it  whole, 
proceed  as  follows  : Washing  the  piece 
well,  put  it  in  an  oven,  add  about  a pint 
of  water,  and  chop  up  a good  handful 
of  each  of  the  following  vegetables  as 
an  ingredient  of  the  dish,  viz.  : Irish 
potatoes,  carrots,  turnips,  and  a large 
bunch  of  celery.  They  must  be  wash- 
ed, peeled,  and  chopped  up  raw,  then 
added  to  the  meat;  blended  with  the 
juice,  they  form  and  flavor  the  gravy. 
Let  the  whole  slowly  simmer,  and, 
when  nearly  done,  add  a teaspoonful 
of  pounded  allspice.  To  give  richness 
to  the  gravy,  put  in  a table-spoonful  of 
butter.  If  the  gravy  should  look  too 
greasy,  skim  off  some  of  the  melted 
suet.  Boil  also  a lean  piece  of  beef, 
which,  when  perfectly  done,  chop  fine, 
flavoring  with  a very  small  quantity 
of  onion,  besides  pepper  and  salt  to  the 
taste.  Make  into  small  balls,  wet 
them  on  the  outside  with  egg,  roll  in 
grated  cracker  or  fine  bread-crumbs. 
Fry  these  force-meat  balls  a light 
brown.  When  serving  the  dish,  put 
these  around  the  tenderloin,  and 
pour  over  the  whole  the  rich  gravy. 
This  dish  is  a very  handsome  one, 
and  altogether  fit  for  an  epicurean 
palate. 

Beef  and  Tomato. — Take  3 lbs.  of 
lean  beef,  cut  into  large  steaks ; lay  it 
in  the  stewpan  with  seven  or  eight 
ripe  tomatoes,  a spoonful  of  water, 
and  a finely  chopped  onion.  Stew 
slowly  for  one  hour  and  a half.  Add 
salt,  pepper,  cloves,  and,  just  be- 
fore dishing,  a piece  of  butter  as 
large  as  an  egg  and  half  a gill  of 
catsup. 


Beef  Tongue.  — Trim  a smoked 
tongue  and  cover  it  with  cold  water. 
Let  this  come  to  a boil ; pour  off  the 
water,  and  fill  the  pot  up  again  with 
cold  water.  Let  this  come  to  a boil ; 
then  allow  it  to  simmer  two  hours. 
When  done,  remove  the  skin;  cut 
it  in  neat,  thin  slices.  Place  them 
on  a hot  dish  as  near  the  original 
form  as  possible.  Serve  with  maca- 
roni. 

Beef  Tongue. — Put  a fresh  tongue 
in  water  sufficient  to  cover  it,  and  let 
it  simmer  for  six  or  seven  hours ; 
skim  the  gravy  well ; half  an  hour 
before  dishing  it,  add  half  a wine- 
glassful  of  walnut  catsup,  a little 
mace,  and  a few  cloves  to  the  gravy, 
and  stew  them  awhile  together. 

Beef  Tongue  with  Aspic  Jelly. — 

Boil  a tongue  in  the  usual  way,  and 
either  roll  it  or  fix  it  on  a board  till 
quite  cold.  Take  a pint  of  the  liquor 
in  which  it  was  boiled,  perfectly  free 
from  fat  and  sediment,  and  put  it  into 
a stewpan  with  a small  sprig  of  thjune, 
three  shallots,  a bay  - leaf,  a small 
piece  of  mace,  three  cloves,  and  2 ozs. 
of  gelatine.  Stir  it  until  the  latter 
is  dissolved,  then  lift  it  to  the  side 
of  the  fire  and  let  it  cool.  Beat  the 
whites  of  two  eggs  with  a cupful  of 
cold  water  and  a teaspconful  of  tarra- 
gon vinegar.  Stir  this  into  the  liquor, 
and  when  it  is  very  hot  leave  it  to 
boil,  and  let  it  boil  gently  for  a quarter 
of  an  hour  without  being  touched. 
Lift  it  from  the  fire,  and  let  it  stand 
to  settle  for  ten  minutes  longer,  then 
strain  it  through  a jelly-bag  till  clear. 
Glaze  the  tongue,  put  it  on  its  dish, 
and  ornament  with  the  jelly  cut  into 
cubes.  Time  to  make  the  aspic, 
about  an  hour  and  a half. 

Beef  Tongue,  Smoked,  a la  Mari- 
gold.— Cut  into  medium  slices  a small 
smoked  tongue,  place  a layer  on  a 
plate,  and  sprinkle  over  it  dry  mus- 
tard, a little  cayenne  pepper,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  oiive  oil,  and  part  of 
the  juice  of  a lemon  and  its  grated 
rind.  Place  over  this  another  layer  of 


15 


Beef  Tongue 


BEVERAGES  Blackberry  Vinegar 


tongue,  and  season  as  before.  Let  it 
stand  for  five  or  six  hours.  Put  one 
table-spoonful  of  butter  in  the  chaf- 
ing-dish, and  when  it  bubbles  add  one 
heaping  table-spoonful  of  flour;  then 
add  one  pint  of  stock.  When  smooth, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste, 
place  the  layers  of  tongue  in  the 
chafing-dish,  and  let  simmer  for  fif- 
teen minute^. 

Beef  Tongue,  Spiced. — Wash  and 
trim  a large  beef  tongue ; rub  it  with  a 
mixture  of  half  a pint  of  sugar,  half 
a teaspoonful  of  saltpetre,  a table- 
spoonful each  of  ground  cloves  and 
allspice,  with  a teaspoonful  of  black 
pepper ; place  in  a strong  brine,  let 
stand  two  weeks,  take  out,  wash  in 
cold  water,  and  wipe  dry.  Roll  the 
tongue  in  a thin  paste  made  of  flour 
and  water,  put  in  a dripping-pan, 
and  set  in  a moderate  oven  to  bake ; 
baste  with  lard  and  water.  When 
done  remove  the  paste,  skin,  and 
stand  aside  until  cold.  When  ready 
to  serve,  slice  very  thin. 

Beef  Tongue  Toast.  — Take  cold 
boiled  tongue,  mince  it  fine,  mix  it 


Beets. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  beets  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indi- 
cated : 

Beets,  Boiled.  See  Vegetables. 

..  Stewed. 

..  Salad.  See  Salads. 


with  cream.  To  every  half-pint  of  the 
mixture  allow  the  well-beaten  yolks 
of  two  eggs.  Place  over  the  fire 
and  let  it  simmer  a minute  or  two. 
Have  ready  some  nicely  toasted 
bread ; butter  it,  place  on  a hot  dish, 
and  pour  the  mixture  over.  Send  to 
table  liot. 

Beef  Vinaigrette. — Rub  one  tea- 
spoonful of  sugar,  one  table-spoonful 
of  mustard,  with  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  into  the  yolks  of  two  eggs ; 
add  three  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar, 
set  in  a bain-marie,  and  cook  until  it 
is  of  the  consistency  of  cream ; allow 
to  cool.  Boil  4 lbs.  of  beef  brisket 
until  quite  tender;  when  cold,  dish 
on  a flat  plate  and  cover  it  with  the 
vinaigrette  sauce,  sprinkle  over  it 
chopped  parsley,  pickles,  and  a little 
shallot. 


Beef,  Force-meat  of. 


See  Force-meats, 

..  Bouillon. 

See  Soups. 

..  Broth. 

..  Soup. 

,, 

..  Tea. 

..  Tripe. 

See  Tripe, 

Belvidere  Cakes. 

See  Bread. 

Berries. 

See  Fruits. 

Berry  Pies. 

See  Pies. 

Betty’s  Muffins. 

See  Bread. 

BEVERAGES 

TEA,  COFFEE,  CHOCOLATE,  HOME-MADE  CORDIALS,  ETC. 


Blackberry  Cordial. — To  one  gal- 
lon of  pure  blackberry-juice  add  2 
lbs.  of  loaf  - sugar,  a table  - spoonful 
each  of  ground  cloves  and  allspice, 
two  grated  nutmegs,  and  one  tea- 
spoonful of  ground  cinnamon.  Boil 
slowly  for  half  an  hour;  take  from 


the  fire,  let  cool,  and  add  a pint  of 
good  French  brandy;  then  bottle. 

Blackberry  Vinegar. — One  quart  of 
blackberries  to  one  of  sharp  vinegar. 
Let  them  stand  a day.  Squeeze  out 
the  juice.  Add  to  this,  two  days  in 


Blackberry  Wine 


BEVERAGES 


Claret  Cup 


succession,  as  much  fruit  as  the 
vinegar  will  hold,  each  time  pressing 
out  the  juice.  To  each  quart  of  the 
vinegar  thus  prepared  put  2 lbs.  of 
sugar,  and  boil  about  ten  minutes. 
When  cool,  bottle  and  seal. 

Blackberry  Wine. — Fill  a large 
stone  jar  with  ripe  berries  and  cover 
with  water.  Tie  a cloth  over  the 
jar,  and  let  stand  for  three  or  four 
days  to  ferment ; then  mash  and 
strain  through  a coarse  cloth.  To 
every  gallon  of  juice  add  3 lbs.  of 
brown  sugar ; cover,  and  skim  every 
morning  until  clear  of  fermentation; 
pour  off  carefully  from  the  sediment 
into  a demijohn,  cork,  and  set  in  a 
cool  place.  Ready  in  two  months. 

Champagne  Cup.  — Pour  a bottle 
of  champagne  into  a silver  or  glass 
cup,  large  enough  to  hold  three  quarts. 
Add  to  this  two  bottles  of  soda  or 
seltzer  water,  a table-spoonful  of 
brandy,  and  16  ozs.  of  pounded  ice. 
Stir  it  well  with  a silver  spoon,  and 
add,  last  of  all,  a table-spoonful  of 
finely  sifted  sugar.  A slice  of  pine- 
apple or  juice  of  an  orange  may  be 
added. 

Chocolate. — -To  one-half  pint  of 
boiling  water  add  2 table-spoonfuls  of 
chocolate  scraped  up.  When  half 
done  put  in  half  a cupful  of  fresh 
milk ; stir  with  a wooden  spoon  until 
the  milk  has  boiled  up  once.  Sweeten 
to  your  taste  either  while  cooking  or 
when  served  on  the  table.  This  is 
only  the  quantity  for  one  cupful. 

Chocolate  Frappe. — Place  over  the 
fire  in  a double  boiler  three  pints  of 
rich  milk ; break  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  sweet  chocolate  into  small 
pieces  on  a plate  and  put  it  in  the 
oven,  leaving  the  door  open,  until 
the  chocolate  is  melted.  When  the 
milk  boils,  gradually  stir  in  the  melted 
chocolate.  Take  it  from  the  fire 
and  stir  until  the  mixture  is  partly 
QGol ; then  beat  in  one  pint  of  cream 
f shipped  to  a stiff  froth.  If  not  sweet 
enough,  add  more  sugar.  Flavor 


with  vanilla  and  a dash  of  brandy. 
Turn  it  into  a packed  ice-cream 
freezer  and  partly  freeze. 

Cider  Cup. — Put  a slice  of  crumb 
of  bread  toasted  at  the  bottom  of  a 
large  jug;  grate  half  a small  nut- 
meg over  it,  and  place  on  it  two  or 
three  slices  of  thin  lemon-rind  and 
half  a dozen  lumps  of  sugar.  Pour 
over  it  two  wineglassfuls  of  sherry, 
one  of  brandy,  the  juice  of  a lemon, 
a bottle  of  soda-water,  and,  last  of 
all,  a quart  of  cider.  Mix  well,  and 
add  a few  lumps  of  pure  ice.  This 
should  be  used  as  soon  as  it  is  made. 

Cider  for  Winter  Use  (Sweet). — 
The  simplest  mode  of  preserving 
cider  is  to  boil  it  down  until  only 
two-thirds  of  the  original  quantity 
is  left,  when  it  will  keep  indefinitely, 
but  is  too  sweet  to  be  enjoyed  much 
as  a beverage.  Every  housekeeper 
would  find  -it  convenient,  however, 
to  have  some  gallons  on  hand,  thus 
prepared,  for  various  uses.  Sweet 
cider  is  an  indispensable  ingredient 
of  mince-meat,  and  will  be  found  to 
improve  the  taste  and  color  of  calf’s- 
foot  and  gelatine  jellies.  Add  ^ 
lb.  of  gelatine  to  a cask  of  cider 
after  dissolving.  Allow  the  cider  to 
remain  until  its  first  fermentation 
is  over,  and  it  has  become  perfectly 
clarified,  then  rack  it  off.  Let  it 
settle  again,  rack  it  off  once  more, 
and  bottle.  Only  pure  cider,  made 
out  of  sound,  freshly  gathered  apples, 
will  be  good,  even  when  subjected  to 
the  above  careful  treatment. 

Claret  Cup. — Pour  a bottle  of  claret 
into  a large  jug,  and  add  two  glasses 
of  sherry,  brandy,  or  any  wine,  spirit, 
or  liqueur  that  may  be  preferred.  Put 
in  the  thin  rind  of  a lemon  and  two 
table  - spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 
Let  it  stand  for  half  an  hour  till  the 
sugar  is  dissolved,  then  put  in  a little 
sliced  cucumber.  Just  before  using, 
add  a bottle  of  soda  or  seltzer  water 
and  a large  piece  of  ice.  Sliced  nec- 
tarines, peaches,  or  raspberries  may 
be  used  instead  of  lemon-rind. 


2 


17 


Cocoa,  Iced 


BEVERAGES 


Coffee 


Cocoa,  Iced. — Put  in  a saucepan 
six  ounces  of  sugar  and  one-quarter 
of  a pound  of  pulverized  cocoa,  and 
one  quart  of  water.  Boil  the  mixt- 
ure until  it  is  like  a thick  syrup; 
then  remove  from  the  fire  and  stir 
occasionally  until  it  is  cool,  when 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  vanilla  ex- 
tract may  be  added.  This  syrup 
may  be  kept  in  a cool  place  for  sev- 
eral weeks  and  used  as  needed.  Serve 
the  cocoa  in  glasses  with  shaved  ice 
and  whipped  cream. 

Cocoa  Shells. — To  a large  handful 
of  shells  allow  one  pint  of  cold  water. 
Let  them  soak  overnight  in  a warm 
place.  In  the  morning,  boil  steadily 
for  one  hour.  Serve,  with  boiled 
milk,  hot. 


Coffee. — A coffee  expert,  in  an  ar- 
ticle which  appeared  in  the  New  York 
Sun,  says : Get  good  coffee.  The 

larger  grocers  will  have  coffee  fresh 
roasted  every  day  or  two,  and  you 
should  never  buy  more  than  a week's 
supply  at  a time.  If  your  grocer 
has  more  than  one  color  of  roast,  get 
the  bright,  or  Boston,  roast. 

Grind  the  coffee  at  home,  and  only 
enough  at  a time  to  make  one  drawing. 
For  the  French  coffee-pot,  or  any 
other  of  the  filtering  pots,  the  coffee 
has  to  be  ground  very  fine,  and  this 
is  the  first  element  in  their  wasteful 
character.  Every  appetizing  whiff 
which  comes  from  that  mill  is  just 
so  much  lost  to  the  coffee.  Every- 
thing should  have  been  made  ready 
for  the  making  of  the  coffee  before 
the  grinding  was  done.  Now  I will 
tell  you  the  most  important  of  trade 
secrets.  The  water  must  be  cooked. 
Water  that  has  merely  been  brought 
to  a boil,  for  some  reason  will  not 
absorb  the  essence  freely.  For  mak- 
ing both  tea  and  coffee  the  water 
must  be  boiled  for  fifteen  or  twenty 


minutes. 

Now  for  the  pot.  Let  it  be  just  an 
ordinary  plain  coffee-pot,  either  of 
tin  or  granite  ware,  but  be  sure  that 
-dt  is  clean,  and  that  the  tinning  or 
graittife  enamel  is  perfect,  so  that  no 


iron  is  exposed.  If  the  iron  is  exposed 
it  will  be  certain  to  make  ink  with 
the  tannin  in  the  coffee,  and  your 
coffee  will  be  spoiled.  Put  your 
ground  coffee  into  the  pot,  and  then 
pour  in  the  cooked  water  while  it  is 
boiling  hot.  Put  in  all  the  water  that 
will  be  needed  at  once,  so  as  to  have 
the  greatest  quantity  at  hand  to 
absorb  the  coffee  essence.  Then  let 
the  pot  stand  on  the  stove  until  the 
water  has  again  come  to  a good  hard 
boil.  Remove  it  and  the  coffee  is 
ready.  If  you  want  milk,  have  the 
milk  boiled,  and  remember  that  milk 
is  better  than  cream  to  bring  out  the 
coffee  flavor. 

There  is  one  other  good  way  to 
make  coffee.  That  is  the  old-fash- 
ioned Yankee  method  of  putting  the 
coffee  in  the  pot  with  cold  water,  and 
leaving  the  pot  on  the  fire  until  the 
water  comes  to  a brisk  boil.  The 
Yankee  coffee-pot  has  a whistle  on 
it  which  blows  when  the  steam  comes 
out  and  gives  notice  that  the  coffee 
is  ready. 

Coffee,  made  in  the  pot  in  which  it 
is  served. — Make  a bag  of  thin  mus- 
lin, and  sew  it  at  the  top  to  a metal 
ring  that  will  fit  the  top  of  the  table 
coffee-pot.  Fit  this  to  the  pot,  and 
pour  in  boiling  water ; let  it  stand  till 
the  pot  is  heated ; pour  off  the  water, 
and  put  the  ground  coffee  into  the 
bag,  allowing  four  table-spoonfuls 
to  a pint  of  water.  Pour  in  boiling 
water  very  slowly  until  the  pot  is 
full,  close  the  lid,  and,  when  all  the 
water  has  passed  through  the 
grounds,  remove  the  bag  and  serve. 
Coffee  with  an  equal  quantity  of 
boiled  milk,  mixed  while  boiling,  is 
the  French  Cafe  au  Lait. 

Coffee  (the  flavor  of)  is  said  to 
be  greatly  improved  and  its  delicate 
aroma  increased  by  adding  a very 
little  bicarbonate  of  soda  to  the  water 
with  which  it  is  made.  In  England 
many  persons  habitually  use  carbon- 
ate of  soda  in  making  tea,  a pinch 
to  a pint  of  water  being  the  regulated 
quantity. 

18 


Coffee,  Black 


BEVERAGES 


Crfeme  de  Menthe 


Coffee,  Black. — Use  a French  cof- 
fee - pot  or  biggin.  Put  into  the 
strainer  of  the  pot  one  cupful  of  finely 
ground  coffee,  and  pour  over  this 
three  cupfuls  of  boiling  water.  Cover 
the  biggin  and  set  on  the  side  of  the 
range,  where  the  contents  will  keep 
hot  but  will  not  boil,  until  all  the 
liquid  has  run  from  the  strainer  into 
the  pot  below.  Now  pour  the  liquid 
from  the  pot  into  a heated  pitcher, 
and  return  it  to  the  strainer  again. 
This  process  should  be  repeated  three 
times,  by  which  time  the  coffee  will 
be  clear  and  very  strong. 

Coffee,  Cuban. — Put  three  pints  of 
rich,  sweet  milk  into  a coffee-pot  and 
let  it  boil.  When  boiling,  put  in  a 
teacupful  of  ground  coffee  and  boil 
five  minutes.  Strain  and  serve. 

Coffee  Frappe. — Pour  one  quart  of 
boiling  water  on  eight  large  table- 
spoonfuls of  freshly  ground  coffee 
and  let  it  stand  about  ten  minutes. 
Then  strain  it  off,  and  for  one  quart 
of  coffee  add  8 ozs.  of  sugar,  one-half 
pint  each  of  cream  and  warmed 
milk.  Mix,  and  let  it  stand  until 
cold.  Then  turn  the  mixture  into 
a freezer  and  let  it  partly  freeze. 
Serve  in  glasses,  putting  a spoonful 
of  very  cold  whipped  cream  in  each 
glass.  A little  brandy  may  be  stirred 
into  the  mixture  just  before  serving, 
if  desired. 

Cordials,  Syrups,  etc.,  Home-made. 

— The  domestic  liqueur  is  seldom 
held  in  sufficiently  high  esteem.  In 
the  household  of  city  folk  it  is  usually 
regarded  with  a half-contemptuous 
amusement,  as  an  old  - fashioned, 
countrified  product,  and  ranked  with 
such  comparatively  innocuous  brews 
as  root-beer  and  elderberry  wine. 
Such  things,  they  think,  may  serve 
to  tickle  the  palates  of  the  dwellers 
in  country  districts,  but  are  almost 
beneath  the  contempt  of  those  so- 
phisticated persons  who  are  familiar 
with  Benedictine  and  Maraschino, 
Chartreuse,  and  creme  de  menthe. 

With  these  rich  and  high-priced 


importations  the  home-made  cordial 
makes  no  effort  to  enter  into  com- 
petition, although  a well-compounded 
cherry  or  peach  liqueur  is  hard  to 
equal,  either  in  flavor  or  stimulating 
qualities,"  by  even  foreign  products. 
But  there  is  a large  and  respectable 
class  of  home-brewed  beverages  which 
are  palatable  in  hot  weather  and 
valuable  in  sickness.  They  are  easy 
to  make  and  are  of  trifling  expense. 
The  labor  of  picking  over  the  fruit 
and  putting  it  up  for  grape  shrub, 
cherry  liqueur,  raspberry  royal,  and 
the  like,  is  no  greater  than  that  in- 
volved in  making  fruit  jellies,  and 
less  than  that  demanded  in  preparing 
preserved,  pickled,  or  brandied  fruit. 

Cream  Nectar.  — Beat  2 lbs.  of 
granulated  sugar  with  2 ozs.  of  tar- 
taric acid.  Moisten  a level  table-spoon- 
ful of  flour  with  the  same  amount  of 
water  and  rub  until  it  is  as  smooth 
as  starch.  Add  another  spoonful  of 
water  and  blend  with  the  acid  and 
sugar  before  adding  one  quart  of 
water.  Then  add  the  whites  of  two 
eggs  beaten  to  a froth.  Flavor  with 
any  fruit  syrups  desired.  Bottle 
and  cork  tightly  and  keep  in  a cool 
place.  To  a glass  three-quarters  full 
of  ice-water  add  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  the  mixture  and  one-third  of  a tea- 
spoonful of  soda. 

Cream  Soda. — In  a porcelain  sauce- 
pan or  small  preserving  - kettle  put 
two  quarts  of  water,  3 lbs.  of  white 
sugar,  and  2^4  ozs.  of  tartaric  acid; 
place  over  the  fire,  and  let  it  just  come 
to  a boil.  Beat  ta  a stiff  froth  the 
whites  of  three  eggs,  and  add  to  the 
boiling  water,  etc.  Let  it  boil  just 
four  minutes,  stirring  constantly  ; 
strain,  and  when  cold  add  one  tea- 
spoonful of  either  lemon,  pineapple, 
or  any  flavoring  essence  that  is  de- 
sired ; bottle  it  tightly.  Mix  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  this  in  half  a tum- 
blerful of  ice-water,  with  one-third  of 
a teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda. 

Crbme  de  Menthe. — Chop  a quan- 
tity of  spearmint  and  place  in  a 


19 


Currant  Shrub 


BEVERAGES 


Grape  Wine 


fruit-can,  fill  with  alcohol  to  the  top 
of  the  mint,  and  screw  on  cover  to 
prevent  evaporation.  Let  it  stand 
from  two  days  to  a week.  Strain  off 
through  thin  muslin.  Make  a syrup 
by  boiling  together  equal  quantities 
of  sugar  and  water ; when  still  warm, 
but  not  hot,  take  measure  for  measure 
of  the  syrup  and  strained  tincturb  of 
mint,  bottle,  and  put  away  for  use. 
In  using,  fill  small  cordial  glasses 
with  finely  crushed  or  shaved  ice, 
and  pour  over  from  one  teaspoonful 
to  one  table-spoonful  of  the  creme  de 
menthe,  according  to  the  strength 
desired.  Snow  can  be  used  instead 
of  the  ice,  in  which  case  it  is  to  be 
eaten  with  a spoon. 

Currant  Shrub. — Fill  a stone  jar 
with  red  currants,  stripped  from  their 
stems.  Place  the  jar  in  a kettle  of 
water.  Let  the  water  boil  around 
the  jar  until  the  juice  is  well  extract- 
ed. Let  it  drip  then  through  a flan- 
nel jelly-bag.  To  each  pint  of  clear 
juice  add  I lb.  of  white  sugar  and 
half  a gill  of  best  brandy.  Cork  up 
tightly. 

Currant  Wine.  — Put  the  perfect 
fruit  in  a stone  crock  and  crush  the 
fruit ; then  strain  and  squeeze  out  all 
the  juice.  To  each  quart  of  juice 
add  3 lbs.  of  granulated  sugar;  stir 
well,  and  to  this  amount  of  juice  and 
sugar  add  water  enough  to  make 
one  gallon  of  liquid.  Put  in  demi- 
johns and  let  it  ferment.  Have  a 
little  quantity  extra  of  the  mixture 
to  pour  into  the  jugs  as  it  works  over, 
so  that  the  wine  will  clarify  itself. 
After  the  wine  has  ceased  to  ferment, 
cork,  draw  off,  and  bottle. 

Fruit  Bouillon. — Stew  a quart  of 
cherries  in  three  quarts  of  water  until 
they  are  tender.  Press  through  a 
fine  sieve,  and  add  to  the  liquor  half 
a cup  of  granulated  sugar,  and  return 
to  the  fire.  Wet  a small  table-spoon- 
ful of  corn-starch  with  cold  water, 
and  add  it  to  the  boiling  bouillon. 
Cook  until  smooth  apd  rather  thick. 
Remove  from  the  fire,  and,  when  cool. 


add  a half-pint  of  claret  to  the  bouillon. 
Serve  as  punch,  in  glasses  of  crushed 
ice. 

Ginger-pop. — Two  gallons  of  boil- 
ing water,  2 lbs.  of  sugar,  2 ozs.  of 
cream  tartar,  2 oz.  of  root  ginger  or 
three  table  - spoonfuls  of  Brown’s 
Jamaica  ginger,  one  lemon  (cut). 
Let  ingredients  stand  until  milk- 
warm,  then  put  into  a stone  jar.  Add 
large  slice  of  stale  bread  and  two  cakes 
of  compressed  yeast.  Allow  to  re- 
main overnight  in  a warm  place. 
Strain  and  bottle,  filling  bottles  only 
two -thirds  full,  and  fasten  corks. 
Bottles  with  patent  corks  are  best. 
In  from  three  to  four  days  the  ginger- 
pop  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Gooseberry  Wine. — Put  3 lbs.  of 
loaf-sugar  into  one  gallon  of  water  ; 
boil  and  skim  it.  When  it  is  nearly 
cold,  put  in  six  quarts  of  ripe  goose- 
berries that  have  been  well  mashed. 
Let  it  stand  two  days,  stirring  it 
frequently.  Steep  half  an  ounce  of 
isinglass  in  one  pint  of  brandy  for 
two  days  ; then  beat  it  with  the  whites 
of  four  eggs  until  they  froth,  and 
add  to  the  wine ; stir  up  and  strain 
through  a flannel  bag  into  a cask 
or  jug ; fasten  it  so  as  to  exclude  the 
air  ; let  it  stand  six  months,  and  bottle 
tightly,  adding  two  or  three  raisins 
to  each  bottle. 

Grape  Wine.  — The  small  wild 

grape  known  to  boys  as  the  **  bird 
grape  ” never  attains  its  full  sweet- 
ness until  after  the  fall  of  frqgt,  and 
makes  an  excellent  wine  for  culinary 
purposes.  Mash  the  grapes  in  a large 
bowl  or  tub  with  a mallet,  and  keep 
them  in  a warm  place  until  there  is 
some  sign  of  fermentation  setting  in ; 
then  strain  the  juice  by  dripping 
through  a flannel  bag.  To  three 
quarts  of  juice  add  one  quart  of  water 
and  3 lbs.  of  light-brown  sugar.  If 
you  put  it  away  in  a demijohn,  select 
a warm,  dry  closet,  and  tie  up  the 
mouth  closely  with  a piece  of  thin 
muslin.  Do  not  cork  up  tight  until 
the  whole  process  is  complete.  It 


20 


Lemon  Syrup 


B EVERAGES 


Punch,  Pineapple 


will  be  all  the  better  if  fermentation 
ensues  speedily ; but  if  the  place  of 
deposit  is  not  warm  enough,  as  soon 
as  the  first  warm  days  of  spring  come 
it  will  go  on  to  ferment,  and  not  be 
injured  by  the  delay. 

Lemon  Syrup. — Three-quarters  of 
a quart  of  lemon  juice  and  one-quarter 
of  water,  4 lbs.  of  the  best  white  sugar 
to  every  quart  of  the  mixture ; boil 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  The  juice 
must  be  strained  through  flannel  be- 
fore boiling ; for  if  any  of  the  pulp  or 
rind  should  be  corked  with  it  the  syrup 
will  be  bitter. 

Orangeade.  — Impregnate  a few 
lumps  of  loaf-sugar  with  the  oil  of 
orange,  by  rubbing  into  them  as 
much  as  you  can  readily  from  the 
rind  of  four  oranges.  Roll  as  many 
oranges  as  you  design  to  use,  squeeze 
the  juice,  allowing  eight  to  one  quart 
of  water.  Throw  the  skins  into  half 
a pint  of  water  as  you  squeeze  them, 
let  them  stand  a short  time,  press 
them  a little,  and  add  this  water  to 
the  other  juice.  The  very  highest- 
flavored  oranges  should  be  .selected, 
and  if  not  found  sour  enough  to  im- 
part an  agreeable  acid,  lemon -juice 
may  be  added,  with  the  caution  that 
it  must  not  be  used  freely  enough 
to  impair  the  distinct  flavor  of  the 
orange.  The  oil  should  only  be 
slightly  rubbed  from  the  oranges. 
Allow  about  Yz  lb.  of  sugar  to  the 
quart  of  orangeade. 

Peach  Liqueur.  — Take  very  ripe, 
full-flavored  peaches,  wash  but  do 
not  peel  them,  cut  in  slices,  put  in  a 
stone  jar,  and  set  the  jar  for  six  hours 
in  a kettle  of  boiling  water.  Cover 
the  peach-kernels  with  brandy,  and 
let  stand  till  next  day.  Strain  off 
the  juice  from  the  peaches,  taking 
care  not  to  squeeze  the  fruit  hard 
enough  to  make  the  liquid  muddy. 
Measure  the  juice,  and  for  each  pint 
take  a generous  pound  of  the  best 
refined  sugar.  Put  sugar  and  juice 
together,  and  let  stand  until  next 
day,  then  bring  the  mixture  to  a 


boil,  skim  it  very  thoroughly,  and 
strain  it  again  through  a bag  of  double 
cheese-cloth.  When  it  is  cool  add  to 
it  the  brandy  in  which  the  kernels 
have  soaked,  putting  one  pint  of  spirit 
to  two  of  syrup.  Let  it  settle,  and 
if  not  perfectly  clear  strain  again. 
It  ought  to  be  either  a clear  pink,  a 
bright  pale  yellow,  or  white,  accord- 
ing to  the  fruit  used.  Use  clear  glass 
bottles.  Put  in  the  bottom  of  each 
ha*f  a dozen  peach  kernels,  also  a 
blade  of  mace  tied  to  a bit  of  yellow 
lemon-peel,  and  a fragment  of  stick 
cinnamon.  Cork,  seal,  and  keep  in 
a dark  place.  The  liqueur  improves 
with  age. 

Punch,  Hot  (French  fashion).  — 
Pour  in  a clean  saucepan  one  quart  of 
California  claret,  Y\  lb.  of  sugar,  a 
piece  cf  cinnamon  (half  a finger- 
length),  the  strained  juice  of  two 
lemons  and  of  three  oranges.  Let 
it  come  to  the  boiling-point.  Have 
a glass  pitcher  warmed  to  prevent  its 
cracking  when  you  pour  in  the  hot 
punch.  After  it  is  poured  into  the 
pitcher,  add  two  slices  of  orange  and 
two  of  lemon  cut  in  small  pieces, 
place  a small  bunch  of  mint  on  the 
top  of  the  pitcher,  ‘sprinkled  with 
powdered  sugar.  Serve  hot. 

Punch,  Milk.  — Put  the  thin  rind 
of  half  a small  lemon  into  a pint  of 
new  milk,  with  twelve  or  fourteen 
good-sized  lumps  of  sugar.  Let  it 
boil  very  slowly  to  draw  out  the 
flavor  of  the  lemon,  then  take  it  from 
the  fire,  remove  the  rind,  and  stir  into 
it  the  yolk  of  an  egg  mixed  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  cold  milk,  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  brandy,  and  four  of  rum. 
Beat  these  thoroughly  together,  and 
when  the  mixture  is  frothed  it  is 
ready  to  serve.  Time  to  prepare,  half 
an  hour. 

Punch,  Pineapple. — Cook  1 lb.  of 
sugar  in  one  quart  of  water  until 
the  sugar  is  dissolved,  and  then  take 
from  the  fire  and  cool.  Peel  one 
large  pineapple  and  grate  it  into  a 
good-sized  bowl*  Add  the  juice  of 


Quince  Wine 


BEVERAGES  Sherbet,  Raspberry 


three  lemons  and  the  pulp  and  juice 
of  one  orange.  Add  the  cold  syrup 
and  one  pint  of  cold  water.  Put  this 
in  the  refrigerator  for  an  hour.  Place 
in  a punch-bowl  a large  block  of  ice 
and  pour  the  mixture  over  it;  add 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  sherry  and  one 
of  brandy  if  desired.  If  a bit  of  color 
is  wanted,  throw  in  a few  large  straw- 
berries. 

Quince  Wine. — Grate  the  best  and 
ripest  quinces  you  can  find,  just  as 
you  would  for  marmalade;  strain  the 
juice  carefully  through  a flannel  bag, 
first  taking  it  through  a muslin  one, 
as  the  flannel  furs  up  so  soon.  If 
a very  sweet  wine  is  desired,  allow 
4 lbs.  of  white  sugar  to  every  gallon 
of  the  juice.  If  rather  sour  is  pre- 
ferred, 2 lbs.  of  sugar  will  be  suffi- 
cient. Stir  it  well  after  adding  the 
sugar.  Let  it  stand  in  jugs  or  kegs, 
filling  up  from  another  as  it  froths 
over.  When  quiet,  bottle  it.  It  can 
be  used  at  once,  but  is  better  when 
older.  About  two  years  from  the 
time  of  making,  if  not  disturbed  until 
then,  you  will  have  a bright,  spark- 
ling wine,  more  like  champagne  than 
home-made  wine  from  any  other  fruit. 

Raspberry  Royal.  — Three  quarts 
ripe,  red  raspberries,  and  one  quart 
good  cider  vinegar.  Let  them  stand 
together  twenty -four  hours,  then 
squeeze,  strain,  and  measure.  To 
each  pint  of  the  liquid  allow  I lb. 
of  white  sugar.  Put  all  together  in 
a preserving  - kettle,  and  boil  half 
an  hour,  skimming  constantly  until 
clear.  When  cool,  add  to  each  quart 
of  the  shrub  a full  gill  of  French 
brandy.  Bottle  and  seal. 

Raspberry  Vinegar.  — Take  one 
quart  of  the  best  cider  vinegar ; add 
to  it  two  quarts  of  ripe  raspberries ; 
let  it  stand  twenty-four  hours ; mash 
the  berries  and  strain,  adding  two 
quarts  more  fruit  after  straining ; let 
it  stand  one  day ; mash  and  strain, 
putting  in  two  quarts  of  fresh  fruit; 
when  these  have  stood  twenty-four 
hours,  strain;  put  i lb.  of  sugar  to 


one  pint  of  juice ; boil  fifteen  minutes, 
removing  the  scum.  Bottle  at  once. 

Sangaree,  Frozen. — Nothing  can  be 
more  refreshing  at  the  dinner-table 
in  hot  weather  than  claret  or  port 
wine  made  into  sangaree  with  pro- 
portions of  water,  sugar,  and  nut- 
meg as  taste  shall  direct ; then  frozen, 
with  the  addition  of  a few  whites  of 
eggs  beaten  to  a froth. 

Sherbets,  Frozen. — See  Ice-creams, 
etc. 

Sherbet,  Lemon. — Rub  the  yellow 
rind  of  five  small  lemons  with  Y\  lb. 
of  loaf-sugar.  Crush  the  latter  to 
powder,  put  it  into  a saucepan  with 
a pint  of  water,  and  simmer  gently 
until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  When 
cold,  add  the  strained  juice  of  the 
lemon.  Take  out  the  rind,  and,  in 
the  usual  way,  serve  in  glasses. 
Time,  a quarter  of  an  hour  to  simmer 
the  syrup. 

Sherbet,  Orange. — Make  a rather 
strong  orangeade,  being  careful  not 
to  put  too  much  water  to  it,  as  the  ice 
will  dilute  it.  Add  one  lemon  to 
every  four  oranges,  and  sweeten  to 
taste;  slice  the  half  of  a medium- 
sized pineapple  and  put  in,  taking 
care  not  to  mash  it  or  let  it  break  up ; 
to  this  put  a few  drops  of  the  real  ex- 
tract of  vanilla,  and  ice  sufficient  to 
make  it  cold. 

Sherbet,  Persian. — Boil  six  or  eight 
stalks  of  green  rhubarb  and  % lb. 
of  raisins  or  figs,  cut  into  slices,  in 
three  pints  of  water.  When  the 
liquid  has  boiled  gently  for  half  an 
hour,  strain  it  through  muslin,  and 
stir  into  it  as  much  lemon  or  orange 
syrup  as  is  agreeable  to  the  taste,  and 
a few  drops  of  rose  water  or  orange- 
flower  water. 

Sherbet,  Raspberry.— One  pint  of 
sugar  and  one  and  one-half  pints  of 
water,  boiled  twenty  minutes ; add 
one  pint  of  crushed  raspberries  and 
the  juice  of  two  lemons  and  remove 


22 


Strawberry  Acid 


BEVERAGES 


Tea 


from  the  fire.  When  cold,  strain 
through  a sieve. 

Strawberry  Acid.  — Dissolve  io 
ozs.  of  tartaric  acid  in  two  quarts  of 
cold  water.  In  a large  bowl  put 
twelve  quarts  of  strawberries,  washed 
and  capped.  The  wild  ones  are  to  be 
preferred.  Pour  over  them  the  acid- 
ulated water,  and  let  the  fruit  stand 
thus  undisturbed  for  forty-eight  hours. 
Then  let  the  juice  drip  through  a 
flannel  bag  without  squeezing.  Meas- 
ure the  juice.  To  one  pint  of  the 
acid  allow  i lb.  of  white  sugar.  Al- 
low the  sugar  and  juice  to  remain 
together  in  a large  jar  until  the  former 
is  thoroughly  dissolved.  As  a slight 
fermentation  may  ensue,  do  not  cork 
at  first,  but  tie  up  the  mouth  of  the 
bottle  tightly  with  muslin  or  gauze, 
to  stand  for  several  weeks  until  this 
danger  is  past.  In  six  weeks  you 
may  safely  bottle,  and  will  find  that 
it  never  spoils,  although  the  brilliant 
color  will  fade  after  a time.  It  has 
the  advantage  of  being  ready  at  a 
moment’s  warning.  Have  your  glass 
or  pitcher  one-fifth  part  full  of  the  acid, 
filling  up  the  remainder  with  cracked 
ice  and  pure  water.  You  may  in 
this  way  make  drinks  of  all  the  small 
fruits,  especially  raspberries,  black- 
berries, stemmed  currants,  and  seed- 
ed Morello  cherries. 

Strawberry,  Raspberry,  or  Pine- 
apple Cordial  is  used  instead  of 
wine  with  cake.  Sugar  down  the 
berries  overnight,  using  more  sugar 
than  you  would  for  the  table.  In 
the  morning  lay  them  in  a hair  sieve 
over  a bowl;  let  them  remain  until 
evening,  so  as  to  thoroughly  drain ; 
then  put  the  juice  into  a thick  flannel 
bag  ; let  it  drain  all  night,  being  care- 
ful not  to  squeeze  it,  as  that  takes 
out  the  brightness  and  clearness. 
All  this  should  be  done  in  a cool 
cellar,  or  it  w’ill  be  apt  to  sour.  Add 
brandy  in  proportion  of  one-third  the 
quantity  of  juice,  and  as  much  more 
sugar  as  the  taste  demands.  Bottle  it 
tightly.  It  will  keep  six  or  eight  years, 
and  is  better  at  last  than  at  first. 


Strawberry  Syrup.  — Make  a syr- 
up in  the  proportion  of  3 lbs.  of  sugar 
to  half  a pint  of  water.  Boil  and 
skim  until  clear.  Allow  two  and  a 
half  pints  of  strained  ' strawberry- 
juice  to  the  half-pint  of  water.  After 
you  add  this,  let  it  boil  hard  for  not 
more  than  five  minutes.  Take  it 
from  the  fire  before  it  loses  its  fine 
color,  and  pour  hot  into  self-sealing 
glass  jars.  This  syrup  preserves 
even  the  odor  of  the  fresh  strawberry 
when  opened  months  afterwards, 
and  flavors  ice-cream  delightfully. 
No  sweetening  is  needed  for  the 
cream  but  what  is  supplied  by  the 
syrup. 

Tea. — If  the  tea  is  a good  quality 
of  English  breakfast  tea — that  is,  a 
pure  Souchong  (which  is  generally 
to  be  had  at  a first-class  grocer's 
at  ninety  cents  a pound),  allow  one 
heaping  teaspoonful  of  tea  for  each 
cup  required.  Its  color  when  poured 
out,  after  steeping  eight  or  ten  min- 
utes, ought  to  be  a bright  brown,  al- 
most as  deep  as  that  of  ordinary 
breakfast  coffee  — not  black  coffee. 
Many  people  have  the  idea  that 
English  breakfast  tea  should  be  of 
the  color  of  Oolong  or  Japan  teas, 
which  are  of  a deep  straw  color;  but 
if  English  breakfast  tea  is  of  this 
pale  color  when  poured  from  the 
teapot  it  insures  a weak,  watery 
stuff  most  disappointing  to  the  true 
tea  connoisseur.  If  one  really  likes 
weak  tea,  it  is  easy  to  add  water  to 
the  teacup  as  it  is  filled.  Oolong  tea, 
on  the  contrary,  should  never  be  of  a 
color  deeper  than  a full  yellow.  Tea 
served  in  Russian  style  may  be  weaker 
than  when  cream  is  used.  For  Rus- 
sian tea  place  one  or  two  lumps  of 
sugar  in  the  cup,  according  to  in- 
dividual taste ; add  a thin  slice  of 
lemon.  Fill  the  cup  with  not  over- 
strong tea.  Cream  is  essential  to 
perfect  tea  that  is,  not  Russian,  even 
more  than  to  coffee. 

Tea. — Put  the  table  teapot  near 
the  fire  until  it  is  quite  hot.  Put  in 
the  dry  tea -leaves,  and  replace  the 


23 


Tea,  Iced 


BLANC-MANGE  Almond  Blanc-mange 


pot,  closely  covered,  near  the  fire  for 
five  minutes.  Have  the  tea-urn  full 
of  boiling  water.  Fill  the  teapot 
from  the  urn,  and  stand  on  the  table 
three  minutes  before  pouring  out. 

Tea,  Iced. — In  the  hot  days  of 
summer,  strong,  cold,  black  tea,  to 
which  lemon-juice  and  sugar  have 
been  added,  will  be  found  very  refresh- 
ing. The  tea  may  be  prepared  in  the 
morning  and  placed  on  ice  about  an 
hour  before  using,  adding  the  lem- 
on-juice and  sugar  at  table;  if  the 
ice  is  put  in  the  tea  it  weakens  it  too 
much. 

Tea  Punch,  Cold.— Have  the  fol- 
lowing orangeade  prepared  early  in 
the  morning  : Pour  one  quart  of  cold 


water  in  a small  saucepan ; add  the 
juice  of  two  lemons  and  three  oranges, 
quarter  of  a pound  of  sugar,  quarter 
of  the  rind  of  a lemon  and  orange. 
Let  it  come  to  the  boiling-point. 
Strain  it  into  a pitcher.  Mix  with 
strong  tea,  let  it  cool,  and  serve  very 
cold  in  a punch-bowl  with  a few 
small  pieces  of  orange  and  pineapple. 

Tomato  Wine. — To  one  gallon  of 
the  juice  of  ripe  tomatoes,  strained, 
put  3 lbs.  of  white  sugar.  Set  aside 
m a demijohn  to  ferment.  Tie  over 
the  mouth  only  a piece  of  muslin 
until  fermentation  ceases,  when  it 
should  be  bottled  and  corked  tightlv. 
Put  a few  raisins  in  each  bottle,  and, 
with  the  color  of  champagne,  it  will 
have  some  of  its  sparkling  quality. 


Bird’s-nest  Blanc-mange. 

See  Blanc-mange. 

Bird’s-nest  Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 

Biscuits.  See  Bread. 

Biscuits,  Fruit.  See  Fruits. 

Biscuit  Ice-cream.  See  Ices. 

Tortoni. 

Bismarck  Sandwiches. 

See  Sandwiches. 

Black  Bean  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Blackberries.— The  following  reci- 
pes for  cooking  blackberries  will  be 
found  under  their  respective  head- 
ings as  indicated : 

Blackberry  Froth.  See  Fruits. 

..  Cordial.  See  Beverages. 
..  Vinegar. 

..  Wine. 

..  Preserved.  See  Preserves. 

Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

Black  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

Blanch,  To. — Put  the  meat  or  vege- 
table in  boiling  water  for  a few  min- 


utes, take  it  out  and  plunge  it  into  cold 
water,  and  let  it  so  remain  until  cold. 
This  gives  plumpness  and  whiteness. 

Blanc-mange  (plain). — Into  three 
pints  of  water  put  2 ozs.  of  isinglass 
or  gelatine  ; let  it  boil  for  half  an  hour, 
then  strain  it  into  one  and  a half  pints 
of  cream;  sweeten  it,  and  add  a few 
bitter  almonds.  Boil  it  up  once,  let  it 
settle,  then  turn  it  into  a mould. 

Another  way;— Season  one  quart 
of  rich  cream  to  your  taste,  or,  say, 
put  5 ozs.  of  sugar  and  ten  drops  of  ex- 
tract of  vanilla,  lemon,  or  rose.  Whip 
the  cream  to  a stiff  froth.  Pour  one 
pint  of  cold  water  on  t oz.  of  gelatine ; 
let  it  simmer  on  embers  until  per- 
fectly dissolved.  When  lukewarm, 
pour  the  cream  slowly  in,  beating  it  all 
the  time  till  stiff  enough  to  drop  from 
the  spoon.  Then  put  it  into  moulds. 

Blanc-mange,  Almond.— One  quart 
of  cream ; soften  in  a small  portion  of 
this  cream  (cold)  1 oz.  of  gelatine; 
have  ready  blanched  Vz  lb.  of  sweet  al- 
monds, with  eight  peach  kernels  or 
bitter  almonds;  beat  these  fine  in  a 
mortar,  with  a little  rose-water  to  pre- 
vent their  oiling ; put  the  cream  with 
the  melting  gelatine  into  a preserv- 
ing-kettle over  the  fire,  and  stir  un- 


Bird’s-nest 


BLANC-MANGE 


Lemon 


til  perfectly  dissolved,  adding  mean- 
while lb.  of  white  sugar;  let  the 
cream  come  to  a boil,  stir  in  the  al- 
monds smoothly  just  as  you  take  the 
blanc-mange  from  the  fire,  set  aside 
in  a bowl  to  cool,  stirring  occasionally 
until  lukewarm, when  pour  into  moulds 
previously  dipped  in  cold  water. 

Blanc-mange,  Bird’s-nest. — Take 
half  a package  of  gelatine,  using  a lit- 
tle more  than  half  the  quantity  of 
water,  as  in  making  jelly.  When 
ready  to  strain,  put  it  into  a large,  oval 
dish ; fill  it  nearly  to  the  edge,  then  set 
it  away  to  harden.  Take  some  egg- 
shells that  you  have  broken  just  the 
end  off  in  getting  out  the  egg,  make 
a blanc-mange  of  corn-starch,  flavor 
with  vanilla,  and  sweeten;  put  this 
into  the  shells  before  it  cools  and 
hardens  at  all ; set  the  eggs  on  end  in  a 
vegetable-dish  so  that  they  will  stand 
top  up,  being  careful  not  to  let  the 
blanc-mange  run  out.  Cut  some  very 
thin  yellow  parings  off  the  lemon-rind ; 
stew  them  in  a little  sugar  and  water ; 
when  cold,  lay  each  piece  separately 
in  a circle  on  the  jelly,  making  two  or 
three  nests.  Break  open  the  egg- 
shells, take  out  the;  blanc-mange,  and 
lay  it  in  groups  like  eggs  inside  the 
nest. 

Blanc-mange,  Chocolate. — Dissolve 
I oz.  of  gelatine  in  as  small  a quantity 
of  warm  water  as  will  cover  it.  When 
melted,  put  on  the  fire  to  dissolve  4 
ozs.  of  chocolate.  Do  not  let  it  scorch, 
and  when  liquid  add  one  quart  of  new 
milk  and  Y\  lb.  of  sugar.  Boil  all  to- 
gether five  minutes ; stir  in  the  gela- 
tine ; boil  five  minutes  longer,  stirring 
constantly.  Take  off  the  fire,  flavor 
with  vanilla,  and  pour  into  moulds. 
This  dessert  can  be  made  several  days 
before  it  is  wanted,  as  it  will  keep. 

Blanc-mange,  Cocoa. — Take  half  a 
box  of  gelatine,  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  cocoa,  one  quart  and  one  cupful  of 
milk,  and  one  scant  cupful  of  sugar. 
Put  the  gelatine  to  soak  in  one-half 
cupful  of  cold  water,  let  it  stand  for  ten 
minutes,  then  add  to  it  the  cocoa  and 


a cupful  of  boiling  milk.  Stir  until  all 
is  well  dissolved.  Put  the  sugar  into 
the  milk,  and  add  it  -cold.  The  great 
advantage  of  using  cocoa  instead  of 
chocolate  is  that  the  whole  mixture  is 
very  much  smoother  than  chocolate 
blanc-mange  is  apt  to  be.  For  that 
readily  separates  or  curdles,  and  has 
to  be  stirred  until  it  is  nearly  cold  to 
keep  it  smooth.  This  is  much  more 
quickly  made,  and  is  very  delicious. 

Blanc-mange,  Coffee-and-cream. — 

Soak  one  package  of  gelatine  in  a cup- 
ful of  cold  water  for  an  hour.  Heat  in 
a double  boiler  one  quart  of  milk,  and 
when  it  reaches  the  scalding-point  stir 
in  one  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  and 
the  soaked  gelatine.  As  soon  as  this 
is  thoroughly  dissolved  take  the  sauce- 
pan from  the  fire  and  divide  the  con- 
tents. To  one  half  add  a cupful  of 
strong,  clear  coffee ; to  the  other  put 
a full  teaspoonful  of  good  vanilla  es- 
sence. Set  both  aside  to  cool,  but  put 
the  coffee  half  in  the  ice  where  it  will  be 
likely  to  become  chilled  more  quickly 
than  the  other.  As  soon  as  it  shows 
signs  of  stiffening  pour  a third  of  it 
into  the  bottom  of  a jelly-mould  with 
straight  sides,  first  rinsing  this  out 
with  cold  water.  Set  directly  on  the 
ice.  When  the  contents  are  firm  put 
in  half  of  the  white  blanc-mange,  re- 
turn to  the  ice,  and  as  soon  as  the  last 
addition  is  firm  turn  in  half  of  the 
remaining  coffee.  All  the  materials 
may  be  used  in  this  way,  making  three 
layers  of  the  coffee  and  two  of  the 
vanilla.  Serve  with  whipped  cream. 

Blanc-mange,  Lemon. — Take  the 
thin  rind  of  two  fresh  lemons  and  put 
it  into  a basin  with  a quarter  of  a pint 
of  cold  water  or  cold  milk,  and  V\  lb. 
of  sugar,  and  let  it  stand  for  an  hour 
or  more.  Dissolve  x/z  oz.  of  gelatine 
in  a quarter  of  a pint  of  water,  and 
when  nearly  cold  mix  it  with  the  lemon 
water.  Add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
beaten  up  with  half  a pint  of  thick 
cream,  put  the  mixture  into  a jug, 
place  it  in  a pan  of  boiling  water,  and 
stir  it  over  the  fire  for  ten  minutes ; then 
pour  it  out,  stir  it  again  until  nearly 


25 


Blanc-mange,  Strawberry  B o N E,  T O Brason  a la  Finaniere 


cold,  to  prevent  it  skinning,  and  put  it 
into  a wet  mould.  Time  to  prepare, 
an  hour  and  a half. 

Blanc-mange,  Strawberry. — Take  a 
quart  of  clear,  stiff  blanc-mange  made 
with  gelatine.  Sweeten  this,  and  stir 
into  it  the  juice  which  has  been  drawn 
from  a quart  of  fresh  strawberries. 
Mix  the  ingredients  thoroughly,  put 
the  blanc-mange  into  a damp  moidd, 
and  leave  it  in  a cool  place  till  set. 
Turn  it  upon  a glass  dish,  and  serve. 
To  draw  the  juice  from  the  strawber- 
ries, pick  them,  spread  them  on  a large, 
flat  dish,  and  sprinkle  over  them  about 
six  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 
Let  them  stand  for  six  or  eight  hours, 
and  use  the  syrup  which  has  flowed 
from  them. 


Blanquette  of  Veal. 

See  Veal. 

Bloater  Salad. 

See  Fish. 

Bluefish. 

See  Fish. 

Bonny-clabber. — It  is  simply  milk 
that,  through  heat,  has  "turned”  or 
thickened  until  it  is  of  the  consist- 
ency of  baked  custard.  It  should  then 
be  set  on  ice,  or  in  the  coolest  part  of  the 
spring-house,  and  sent  to  the  table  not 
a moment  before  it  is  to  be  helped  out. 
Individuals  eat  it  with  relish  just  as  it 
is,  but  for  most  persons  sugar,  cream, 
and  grated  nutmeg  are  required.  The 
milk  may  be  poured  into  a glass  bowl 
before  it  turns. 

Boston  Brown  Bread.  See  Bread. 

Bouilleabaisse.  See  Fish. 

Bouilli.  See  Beef. 

Bouillon,  Beef.  See  Soups. 

Fruit.  See  Beverages. 

Bouquet  for  Soups. — Parsley,  cel- 
ery, shallots,  bay-leaves,  cloves,  pep- 
percorns, etc.,  tied  into  a bunch  so  that 
it  may  be  easily  removed. 


Bohemia  Salad.  See  Salads. 

Boiled  Custard.  See  Custards. 

Bonne  Femme,  and  Other 

Egg  Soups.  See  Soups. 

Bone,  To. — The  art  of  boning  meat 
or  poultry,  though  by  no  means  diffi- 
cult for  those  who  have  been  taught  it, 
cannot  be  acquired  by  verbal  instruc- 
tion only.  It  is  necessary  to  take  les- 
sons from  some  one  who  understands 
it,  and  practice  will  do  the  rest.  It  is 
exceedingly  useful,  most  of  all,  be- 
cause joints,  etc.,  when  boned,  are  so 
much  more  easily  carved  than  when 
served  in  the  usual  way,  and  also  on 
account  of  the  economy,  as  the  bones 
taken  may  be  stewed  down  for  gravy, 
for  which  fresh  meat  would  otherwise 
be  needed.  The  family  poulterer  will 
generally  do  all  that  is  required  for  a 
moderate  charge.  The  only  rules 
which  can  be  given  are  to  use  a sharp- 
pointed  knife,  to  work  with  this  close  to 
the  bone,  and  to  use  every  care  to  keep 
the  outer  skin  as  whole  as  possible. 


Brains,  Calf’s.  See  Veal. 

Bran  Bread.  See  Bread. 

Muffins. 

Brandied  Fruits. 

See  Fruits  and  Pickles. 

Brandy  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

..  Sauce. 

Brason  a la  Finanifere.  — Cut  into 
small  squares  lb.  cooked  ham  (lean), 
Y*  lb.  of  roast  beef,  Y*  lb-  of  boiled  or 
roast  chicken.  To  these  add  a small 
handful  of  chopped  mushrooms  and  a 
few  truffles.  In  the  bottom  of  a small 
mould  place  a piece  of  truffle  and  four 
green  peas,  and  cover  them  with  warm 
aspic  jelly.  Place  the  moulds  into  cold 
water  till  set.  Then  add  the  chopped 
meats  and  mushrooms  and  cover  them 
with  warm  aspic  jelly,  to  which  a little 
gravy  coloring  has  been  added.  Place 
the  moulds  in  cold  water  till  ready 
for  use.  Dish,  turn  out  of  moulds, 
and  place  finely  chopped  aspic  jelly 
around. 


Bread-crumbs,  Fried  BREAD,  ETC 


Bread 


Bread-crumbs,  Fried. — Put  some 
thin  slices  of  bread  into  an  oven  when 
the  fire  has  gone  low,  and  let  them  stay- 
all  night ; roll  them  next  morning  into 
crumbs.  Put  into  a frying-pan  some 
butter  or  lard,  and  when  it  is  on  the 
point  of  boiling,  add  the  bread-crumbs. 


Stir  them  till  they  are  of  a clear  brown 
color.  Take  them  out  with  a slice,  and 
put  them  on  blotting-paper  before  the 
fire,  to  draw  away  all  the  fat;  or  they 
may  be  browned  in  a gentle  oven  with- 
out butter.  Bread-crumbs  so  prepared 
are  useful  for  serving  with  game. 


BREAD,  ETC. 


Bread. — No  mistress  of  a house — 
we  might  say,  no  woman,  in  whatever 
sphere,  ought  to  feel  herself  thorough- 
ly educated  who  cannot  at  least 
superintend  the  process  of  bread- 
making in  such  style  as  to  produce 
the  resultant  of  a fair  and  flaky 
loaf  with  which  to  grace  the  family 
board. 

Good  yeast  is  essential  to  good 
bread.  The  hops  should  be  as  fresh 
as  possible.  They  should  be  kept 
in  the  dark,  as  they  lose  their  strength 
in  the  light.  The  potatoes  should 
not  be  boiled  in  iron  : it  colors  the 
yeast.  When  yeast  has  a strong, 
tart  smell,  and  a watery  appearance 
on  the  surface,  with  sediment  at  the 
bottom,  it  is  too  old  to  use. 

Yeast,  made  fresh  every  day,  can 
be  obtained  in  all  the  larger  cities  and 
towns.  One  cake  of  this  is  equal  to 
a cupful  of  home-made  yeast.  Where 
compressed  yeast  cannot  be  obtained, 
the  following  recipes  will  give  satis- 
factory results  : 

Yeast. — Take  i oz.  of  dried  hops  and 
two  quarts  of  water.  Boil  them  fifteen 
minutes  ; add  one  quart  of  cold  water, 
and  let  it  boil  for  a few  minutes ; 
strain,  and  add  Yz  lb.  of  flour — putting 
the  latter  into  a basin,  and  pouring 
on  the  water  slowly  to  prevent  its  get- 
ting lumpy — % lb.  of  brown  sugar,  a 
handful  of  fine  salt.  Let  it  stand 
three  days,  stirring  it  occasionally. 
When  it  ferments  well,  add  six  pota- 
toes, which  have  been  boiled,  mashed, 
and  run  through  a colander,  making 
them  as  smooth  as  possible.  This 
yeast  will  keep  a long  while,  and  has 
the  advantage  of  not  taking  any 


yeast  to  start  it  with.  It  rises  so 
quickly  that  a less  quantity  of  it  must 
be  put  in  than  of  ordinary  yeast. 

Another  recipe  : — Into  a saucepan 
put  three  quarts  of  water,  a very 
large  handful  of  hops  tied  into  a bag  ; 
and  when  it  boils,  add  four  pared 
potatoes.  When  the  potatoes  are 
done,  take  out  and  mash  in  a basin ; 
add  a cupful  of  sugar,  one  of  salt, 
and  three  spoonfuls  of  flour ; pour  the 
hop-water  over;  mash  all  well  and 
smoothly  together.  If  it  seems 
lumpy,  strain  through  a colander ; 
put  back  into  the  saucepan  to  boil ; 
and,  as  soon  as  it  boils  up  once,  re- 
move from  the  fire.  When  cold,  add 
about  half  a pint  of  lively  yeast,  and 
let  it  rise.  If  the  yeast  is  not  very 
lively,  it  will  take  more.  When  risen, 
put  a little  ginger  and  a small  piece 
of  alum  dissolved  in  water  to  it.  Put 
into  bottles  and  cork. 

Buttermilk  Yeast  Powders. — One 
quart  of  fresh  buttermilk  made  up 
with  corn  meal  to  a stiff  batter,  with 
a teacupful  of  yeast.  Let  it  rise ; 
then  add  enough  flour  to  make  it  a 
stiff  dough.  Let  it  rise  a second  time. 
Put  it  on  dishes  or  boards  to  dry  in  the 
shade.  Rub  it  up,  and  keep  it  in  a 
bag.  To  one  quart  of  flour  put  one 
table-spoonful  of  yeast  powder. 

General  Rules : 

1.  Use  the  best  flour,  and  sift  all 
white  flour  twice. 

2.  Let  the  dough  be  made  quite  soft 
with  lukewarm  water  or  milk. 

3.  Put  the  dough  to  rise  slowly  in 
a place  where  the  temperature  is 
warm  and  even. 

4.  Knead  the  dough  thoroughly 


27 


Batter  Bread 


BREAD,  ETC. 


Corn  Bread 


until  it  is  elastic.  Twenty  or  thirty 
minutes  kneading  is  usually  suf- 
ficient. 

5.  Let  the  oven  be  moderately  hot 
only  and  keep  the  heat  at  an  even 
temperature. 

6.  Grease  or  butter  the  pans  just 
before  putting  in  the  dough. 

7.  Let  the  baked  bread  cool  under 
a cloth. 

Batter  Bread  (plain) Beat  up 
light  two  eggs;  stir  them  into  one 
pint  of  sifted  corn  meal,  and  add 
enough  sweet  milk  to  make  the  batter 
very  thin.  If  }mu  have  not  enough 
milk,  water  will  answer.  Bake  about 
half  an  hour.  Many  persons  save  a 
little  rice  from  dinner  the  day  before, 
or,  better  still,  a large  spoonful  of 
boiled  small  hominy,  to  mix  in  their 
batter  bread,  either  of  which  many 
esteem  an  improvement.  This  is  the 
bread  so  universally  found  on  the 
breakfast-table  in  the  South,  and 
familiarly  styled  "corn  bread,”  some- 
times "pudding  bread.” 

Batter  Bread  (richer).  — Prepare 
enough  boiled  mush  to  half  fill  a china 
baking-dish,  quart  size.  While  hot, 
add  a table-spoonful  of  butter,  stirring 
it  in  until  melted.  While  the  mush 
is  cooling,  beat  up,  very  light,  three 
eggs,  the  whites  and  yolks  separately. 
Add  these  to  the  mush,  with  sufficient 
milk  to  make  the  batter  thin,  and  the 
dish  just  full  enough  to  allow  room 
for  the  bread  to  rise  in  baking.  Use 
small  patty  - pans  to  bake  in  if  you 
prefer. 

Boston  Brown  Bread. —Sift  and 
mix  a pint  each  of  Graham  flour, 
white  flour,  and  corn  meal.  Scald 
these  by  pouring  on  them  two  cups 
of  boiling  water.  In  a pint  of  slightly 
warmed  milk  dissolve  an  even  tea- 
spoonful each  of  salt  and  baking- 
soda,  then  stir  in  a cup  of  molasses. 
Pour  this  mixture  into  the  wet  meal 
and  flour,  beat  hard  for  some  minutes, 
then  pour  the  batter  into  a greased 
mould  with  a closely  fitting  cover. 
Steam  for  at  least  three  hours.  When 


done,  turn  the  bread  from  the  mould 
and  set  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes, 
or  until  dry  on  the  outside. 

Bran  Bread  (with  yeast).— Take  a 
sponge  of  wheat  flour ; when  it  is 
light,  add  salt  and  a small  quantity 
of  molasses,  stirring  in  bran  flour 
with  a spoon  until  it  is  quite  stiff. 
Let  it  rise,  and  bake  a little  longer 
than  the  same-sized  wheat  loaf. 

Brown  Bread.  — To  two  quarts  of 
corn  meal  allow  a teacupful  of  boiling 
water,  one  quart  of  Graham  flour, 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  strong  hop 
yeast,  one  table-spoonful  of  salt,  one 
teacupful  of  molasses,  and  one  quart 
of  lukewarm  water.  Scald  one  quart 
of  the  corn  meal  with  the  boiling 
water ; add  the  lukewarm  water,  and 
then  stir  in  gradually  the  other  quart 
of  meal  and  the  Graham  flour;  add 
the  other  ingredients,  the  yeast  last, 
and  set  to  rise.  When  light,  bake 
in  a quick  oven. 

Corn  Bread.  — In  winter,  a nice 
corn  bread,  very  digestible,  can  be 
made  with  snow.  Take  about  a 
quart  of  meal ; into  this  stir  well  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  a table- 
spoonful of  good  suet  lard ; add  a tea- 
spoonful of  salt.  Stir  in  a quart  of 
light,  clean  snow,  doing  it  in  a cool 
place,  where  the  snow  will  not  melt. 
Bake  it  about  forty  minutes  in  a 
rather  quick  oven.  The  cake  should 
be  broken,  not  cut. 

Corn  Bread  (No.  1). — One  cup  each 
of  corn  meal  (white  or  yellow)  and  of 
wheat  flour,  half-cup  of  white  sugar, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two 
eggs,  one  cup  of  milk,  two  small  tea- 
spoonfuls of  baking-powder,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Rub  butter  and 
sugar  together,  add  the  beaten  eggs, 
the  milk,  and  last  the  corn  meal  and 
flour,  with  which  have  been  sifted  the 
salt  and  baking-powder.  This  quan- 
tity will  make  two  small  loaves,  or 
about  a dozen  muffins,  and  will  be 
liked  by  all  who  care  for  a rather 
sweet  corn  bread.  It  is  very  good  if 


Corn  Bread 


BREAD,  ETC 


Graham  Bread 


a cup  of  cream  is  used  in  place  of  the 
milk.  In  that  case  the  butter  is 
omitted  and  only  one  egg  used. 

Corn  Bread  (No.  2). — Three  eggs, 
one  full  pint  of  milk,  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  melted  butter,  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  sugar,  two  cups  of  white  corn 
meal,  one  cup  of  wheat  flour,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  one 
scant  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Mix  as 
directed  in  preceding  recipe  and  bake 
in  a loaf.  In  this,  and  all  sorts  of  corn 
bread,  grease  the  mould  carefully 
with  lard  or  dripping.  Butter  is 
more  likely  to  allow  the  bread  to  stick 
fast  and  burn.  This  bread,  too, 
may  be  baked  in  small  pans.  If 
baked  in  a loaf,  the  knife  should  be 
held  upright  in  cutting  it. 

Corn  Batter  Bread. — Sift  the  corn 
meal,  and  to  a teacupful  of  it  allow 
twice  the  quantity  of  sweet  milk — 
namely,  one  pint.  Beat  up  two  eggs 
very  light  (one  egg  will  do  at  scarce 
seasons),  add  half  a teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  to  this  beaten  egg  add  the 
meal  and  milk  gradually  until  ev- 
erything is  well  blended.  Pour  the 
batter  into  a baking-dish  of  suitable 
size,  place  it  in  a well-heated  oven, 
and  in  about  a half-hour  it  will  be 
ready  for  table. 

Corn  Bread,  Raised. — One  pint  of 
milk,  made  very  hot;  one  and  one- 
half  cups  of  Indian  meal ; half-cup  of 
wheat  flour;  two  eggs,  well  beaten; 
one  table-spoonful  each  of  butter  and 
white  sugar ; salt  - spoonful  of  salt ; 
half  yeast  cake,  dissolved  in  warm 
water.  Put  the  meal  in  a bowl,  pour 
the  scalding  milk  upon  it,  and  let  it 
stand.  When  cool,  stir  in  the  melted 
yeast  cake,  the  sugar,  and  the  flour, 
and  set  aside  to  rise.  At  the  end  of 
five  or  six  hours  stir  in  the  melted 
butter,  the  salt,  and  the  beaten  eggs. 
Beat  thoroughly,  turn  into  muffin- 
pans  or  a large,  shallow  tin,  and  let 
the  bread  rise  in  a warm  place  for 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  before  put- 
ting into  the  oven.  Bake  about 
twenty  minutes  and  eat  hot. 


Corn  and  Rice  Bread.  — Three 
eggs,  whipped  light;  two  cups  of 
milk,  two  scant  cups  of  Indian  meal, 
one  cup  of  cold,  boiled  rice,  one  table- 
spoonful of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder.  Mix  together  the  eggs,  milk, 
butter,  salted  meal,  and  rice,  stirring 
in  the  baking  - powder  carefully  at 
the  last.  Should  the  mixture  seem 
too  thick,  thin  with  a little  milk. 
Bake  in  muffin-tins  in  a steady  oven, 
and  eat  as  soon  as  they  are  cooked. 

French  Bread. — Make  up  a quart 

of  flour  twelve  hours  before  you  wish 
to  use  it,  with  a large  table-spoonful 
of  sweet  yeast,  and  milk  and  water 
enough  to  make  the  dough  pliable, 
and  rather  softer  than  for  ordinary 
light  bread.  Work  in  a dessert- 
spoonful of  butter,  and  one  well- 
beaten  egg.  Set  it  away  to  rise,  and, 
when  well  risen,  work  it  about  ten 
minutes  the  second  time.  Make  it 
into  a loaf  or  rolls,  and  bake  as  usual. 

Graham  Bread. — To  2 lbs.  of  Gra- 
ham flour  allow  a pint  of  milk,  a pint 
of  water,  a wineglassful  of  molasses, 
a teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a teaspoon- 
ful of  soda,  and  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  strong  yeast.  Beat  the  yeast, 
molasses,  soda,  and  salt  in  luke- 
warm milk  and  water.  Stir  in  the 
flour  until  too  stiff  to  use  a spoon. 
Knead  and  bake  as  usual. 

Graham  Bread  (steamed).  — Boil 
one  pint  of  milk,  and  thicken  with 
Graham  flour ; add  cold  milk  enough 
to  make  a thin  batter,  and  when 
cool  enough  add  half  a teacupful  of 
hop  yeast  and  a small  quantity  of 
syrup  molasses.  Stir  in  Graham 
flour  to  form  a stiff  batter.  When 
light,  sprinkle  a small  quantity  of 
fine  flour  on  a board,  and  work  the 
bread  until  it  ceases  to  be  sticky, 
being  careful  not  to  put  on  too  much 
flour  and  get  it  too  stiff  and  dry ; 
put  it  into  a round  basin  that  will 
fit  into  the  steamer,  and  when  light 
work  a very  little.  Put  it  into  the 
basin  again  and  set  into  the  steamer. 


Home-made  Bread  BREAD,  ETC 


Wheat  Bread 


having  plenty  of  boiling  water  in  the 
vessel  beneath.  A medium-sized  loaf 
should  cook  one  hour,  and  the  lid  of 
the  steamer  must  not  be  removed  or 
the  water  cease  boiling,  else  the  bread 
will  be  heavy.  When  done,  remove 
from  the  steamer  and  put  into  the 
oven  for  about  twenty  minutes  T;o 
give  it  a crust.  The  steaming  gives 
lightness  and  moisture  to  the  bread, 
and  the  finish  in  the  oven  dries  the 
outside  and  gives  a crust  to  it. 

Home-made  Bread. — Sift  2 lbs.  of 
fine  white  flour  into  a deep  earthen 
dish,  and  with  a wooden  spoon  hollow 
out  the  middle,  leaving  a little  flour 
at  the  bottom  of  the  hole.  Have 
ready  a table-spoonful  of  strong 
brewer’s  yeast,  which  has  stood 
twenty-four  hours  in  a cup  of  cold 
water  to  settle.  Mix  the  yeast  slowly 
with  a pint  of  warm  milk  and  water, 
half  of  each,  stirring  gently  while 
mixing.  Pour  the  mixture  into  the 
hole  in  the  flour,  and  stir  from  the 
\£alls  of  the  hole  until  a thick  batter  is 
formed.  Cover  this  with  flour.  Cover 
the  pan  with  a thick  towel,  and  stand 
in  a warm,  dry  place.  Take  up  the 
pan  in  an  hour,  if  the  flour  on  the  top 
is  split  open,  and  pour  in  half  a pint 
of  warm  milk  and  water,  stirring 
with  the  spoon  until  very  stiff.  Cover 
with  dry  flour  and  knead,  drawing 
the  edges  towards  the  middle  to 
mix  thoroughly,  till  all  the  flour  is 
kneaded  in.  Stand  again  to  rise  until 
the  dough  cracks  on  the  top.  Form 
quickly  into  loaves  and  bake. 

Pulled  Bread. — Fresh  bread  dough, 
made  into  strands  and  baked  like 
ordinary  bread.  When  cool,  it  is  torn 
apart  into  irregular  pieces,  returned 
to  the  oven  and  baked  fifteen  or  twen- 
ty minutes,  until  crisp.  To  be  served 
hot. 

Rice  Bread. — Boil  1 lb.  of  whole 
rice  in  milk  enough  to  dissolve  all  the 
grains,  adding  it  boiling  as  it  is  ab- 
sorbed. Have  4 lbs.  of  sifted  flour  in 
a pan,  and  into  this  pour  the  rice  and 
milk,  adding  salt  and  a wineglassful 


(large)  of  brewer’s  yeast.  Knead, 
and  set  to  rise  till  light.  Form  in 
loaves  and  bake. 

Rye  Bread. — Make  a rather  stiff 
mush  of  corn  meal,  boiling  it  long 
and  well ; salt  to  taste ; when  milk- 
warm,  stir  in  yeast  in  just  the  pro- 
portion for  wheat  sponge.  In  cool 
weather  this  must  be  done  overnight ; 
and  in  the  morning,  when  light, 
work  in  as  much  rye  flour  as  the 
sponge  will  hold.  Do  not  get  it  too 
stiff,  for  it  will  adhere  to  the  hands 
even  when  stiff  enough,  and,  unlike 
wheat  dough,  its  "stickiness”  is 
not  a sign  of  the  need  of  more  flour. 
Let  the  dough  rise,  and  do  not  at- 
tempt to  mould  it,  but  pour  into  well- 
buttered  tins. 

Rye  Bread  (steamed). — Half  a pint 
of  rye  meal,  unsifted,  one  pint  of 
sifted  corn  meal,  the  same  quantity 
of  sour  milk,  half  a gill  of  molasses, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a large 
teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  a 
small  portion  of  warm  water;  stir 
well  together,  adding  the  soda  last. 
Steam  it  for  four  hours. 

Wheat  Entire  Bread. — One  cup  of 
wheat  flour,  one  quart  of  entire  wheat 
flour,  one-quarter  of  a cake  of  com- 
pressed yeast,  one  pint  of  water,  or 
milk  if  preferred,  one  teaspoonful  of 
shortening  (either  lard  or  butter),  a 
half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  molasses  ac- 
cording to  taste.  Beat  hard  with  a 
spoon  and  let  rise  overnight.  In 
the  morning  mould  and  let  it  rise 
again.  This  quantity  will  make 
two  loaves. 

Wheat  Bread. — One  table-spoonful 
of  butter  or  lard,  one  table-spoonful 
of  sugar,  one  table-spoonful  of  salt, 
one  pint  of  milk  or  water  (lukewarm), 
two  quarts  of  flour,  half  a yeast  cake 
or  half  a cup  of  yeast.  Into  the 
bread-pan  put  the  salt,  butter,  and 
sugar ; sift  over  it  one  quart  of  the 
flour.  Make  a hole  in  the  centre  of 
these  ingredients,  and  pour  into  it, 
stirring  slowly,  the  pint  of  lukewarm 


Biscuits,  Buttermilk  BREAD,  ETC 


Biscuits,  Graham 


water  or  milk  in  which  the  yeast  has 
been  thoroughly  dissolved,  or  to 
which  the  liquid  yeast  has  been 
added.  Stir  vigorously  till  a smooth 
batter  is  formed,  then  cover  and  set 
away  overnight  in  a room  whose  tem- 
perature is  about  sixty  degrees.  As 
soon  as  possible  in  the  morning,  stir 
into  this  spongy  mass  the  remainder 
of  the  flour,  reserving  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  it  for  sprinkling  the 
hands  and  bread-board  during  the 
kneading  operation.  Then  press  and 
work  the  dough  thoroughly  for  twenty 
minutes ; by  this  time  no  part  of  it 
will  stick  to  the  hands  or  board.  Cover 
and  place  in  a warm  corner,  out  of 
the  way  of  draughts,  for  five  hours ; 
then  turn  again  on  to  the  kneading- 
board,  knead  for  ten  minutes,  form 
into  loaves,  and  place  in  well-buttered 
tins.  Let  these  rise  for  an  hour 
longer,  then  bake  fifty  minutes  in  a 
good  oven.  The  housekeeper  for 
two  can  vary  this  programme  towards 
the  end  by  dividing  the  dough  into 
three  parts,  making  two  of  them 


into  loaves,  and  the  third  into  a half- 
dozen  biscuits  or  rolls.  For  the 
biscuits,  take  bits  of  the  dough  about 
as  large  as  English  walnuts,  and  roll 
them  into  balls ; place  in  the  pan  so 
that  they  touch  one  another.  Or  de- 
lightfully crusty  ones  are  obtained  by 
baking  them  in  little  pa^-pans.  For 
the  rolls,  take  twice  the  quantity  for 
biscuits,  and  roll  each  bit  till  it  is  three 
inches  long  and  one  inch  wide.  The 
biscuits  or  rolls  will  only  require  twen- 
ty or  twenty-five  minutes  for  baking. 


Bread  and  Butter  Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 

Pudding. 

and  Fruit  Fritters. 

See  Fritters, 
fried  for  Soups.  See  Crofitons. 
Griddle  Cakes.  See  Bread. 

Jelly.  See  Jellies. 

Omelet  See  Omelet. 

Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Sippets.  See  Sippets. 

Soup,  Crofttes  au  pot. 

See  Soups. 


BREAKFAST  CAKES 

BISCUITS,  BUNS,  CAKES,  CRISPS,  DODGERS,  DROPS,  GEMS,  GRID- 
DLE-CAKES, MUFFINS,  PANCAKES,  PUFFS,  ROLLS,  RUSK, 
SCONES,  TOAST,  WAFFLES,  ETC. 


Biscuits,  Buttermilk. — To  three  cup- 
fuls of  buttermilk  add  one  of  butter, 
one  teaspoonful  of  baking  - powder, 
sufficient  salt,  and  flour  enough  to 
ma  the  dough  just  stiff  enough  to 
admit  of  being  rolled  out  into  bis- 
cuits. 

Biscuits, Chaney’s  Thin. — Take  one 
pint  of  flour  and  make  into  dough,  as 
soft  as  can  be  rolled,  with  sweet  milk, 
a salt-spoonful  of  salt,  2 ozs.  of  butter, 
and  2 ozs.  of  lard.  Roll  out  into 
round  cakes  nine  inches  in  diameter, 
and  of  waferlike  thinness.  In  bak- 
ing, do  not  allow  them  to  brown,  but 
remove  from  the  oven  while  they  re- 
tain their  whiteness. 


Biscuits,  Fairy.  — Rub  2 ozs.  of 
butter  with  x/z  lb.  of  flour,  add  4 ozs. 
of  sugar  and  a few  drops  of  almond 
flavoring,  mix  with  the  white  of  an 
egg  and  a table  - spoonful  of  milk ; 
work  well  into  the  paste  2 ozs.  of 
sweet  almonds,  well  pounded ; rub 
through  a wire  sieve.  Take  up 
pieces  the  size  of  a sixpence ; bake  a 
few  minutes  on  buttered  paper,  tak- 
ing care  to  keep  them  quite  a pale 
color. 

Biscuits,  Graham. — Into  three  cups 
of  Graham  flour  and  one  of  white 
rub  well  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder  ; when  thoroughly  mixed, 
add  a teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one 


Biscuits,  New  York  Tea  BREAD,  ETC 


Biscuits,  Yeast 


table  - spoonful  of  white  sugar.  Stir 
in  two  cupfuls  of  new  milk ; cut  into 
cakes  and  bake  in  a quick  oven. 

Another  recipe  : — Into  one  quart 
of  Graham  flour  stir  half  a teaspoon- 
ful of  baking-powder,  a little  salt, 
and  enough  sweet  milk  to  make  a 
thin  batter ; add  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  and  the  whites  slightly  frothed. 

Biscuits,  New  York  Tea.  — One 

quart  of  flour,  in  which  thoroughly  mix 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder; 
add  one  large  coffee-cup  of  sugar ; 
cut  finely  half  a cup  of  butter ; make 
a hole  in  the  middle  of  the  flour  and 
pour  in  a coffee-cup  of  milk;  stir  all 
well  together  with  a knife,  and  roll 
out  about  half  an  inch  thick.  Cut 
into  cakes  and  bake  in  a quick  oven. 

Biscuits,  Royal  (Mrs.  Lemcke). — 
Butter  a square  cake -pan  and  dust 
it  with  flour  ; put  one  pint  of  flour  into 
a sieve,  add  one  heaping  teaspoonful 
of  Royal  baking-powder,  one-half  tea- 
spoonful of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  and  sift  the  whole  into  a bowl ; 
add  I oz.  of  pure  lard,  chop  the  lard 
fine  in  the  flour  with  a table  - knife, 
then  make  a hollow  in  the  centre,  pour 
in  one-half  pint  of  cold  milk,  and  mix 
with  the  same  knife  into  a smooth 
dough ; sprinkle  a little  flour  on  a 
pastry- board,  turn  the  dough  on  to 
it,  and  pat  it  lightly  with  the  knife 
to  smooth  the  top ; then  roll  it  out  to 
one  inch  in  thickness,  dip  a small 
biscuit  - cutter  in  flour  and  cut  the 
dough  into  rounds,  lay  them  in  the 
buttered  pan  close  together ; brush 
the  biscuits  over  with  melted  butter, 
then  place  them  in  a hot  oven,  and 
bake  from  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes ; 
when  done  remove  the  biscuits ; sepa- 
rate them,  and  serve  them  enclosed  in 
a napkin  on  a hot  plate.  In  case  the 
oven  is  rather  hot  on  top,  cover  the 
biscuits  entirely  with  brown  paper; 
they  should  be  a handsome  golden 
color  when  done. 

Biscuits,  Sherwood.  — For  break- 
fast, make  up  at  night  one  pint  of  flour 
with  a table-spoonful  of  yeast,  ex- 


actly as  if  for  light  bread.  In  the 
morning  work  in  one  quart  of  flour, 
with  a heaping  table-spoonful  of  lard 
and  butter  mixed,  an  even  dessert- 
spoonful of  salt,  and  half  a pint  of 
buttermilk  in  which  a pinch  of  soda 
has  been  dissolved,  or  simply  a cup 
of  sweet  milk.  Work  well  for  ten 
minutes.  Make  into  small  biscuits 
with  the  hand,  instead  of  cutting  out. 

Biscuits,  Soda. — One  quart  of  flour, 
one  table-spoonful  of  butter  and  lard 
mixed,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
quarter  teaspoonful  of  soda,  enough 
buttermilk  or  sour  milk  to  make  the 
dough  just  stiff  enough  to  be  handled  ; 
the  soda  should  be  sifted  with  the 
flour  and  the  shortening  rubbed  in 
before  the  buttermilk  is  added.  These 
biscuits  do  not  require  kneading  or 
beating,  but  must  be  mixed  and  baked 
as  quickly  as  possible  afterwards. 

Biscuits,  Yeast. — Their  success  de- 
pends much  on  their  being  kept 
tightly  covered  during  the  leaven- 
ing process,  and,  if  successfully  made, 
have  a melting  instead  of  a doughy 
quality  when  eaten. 

Into  a scant  half-pint  of  scalding 
milk  put  a teaspoonful  each  of  salt 
and  sugar  and  a heaping  one  of 
prime  butter.  Stir  until  about  blood- 
warm,  then  add  a fourth  of  a yeast 
cake  previously  dissolved  in  a little 
of  the  milk,  and,  when  these  ingredi- 
ents are  well  blended,  sift  in  a heap- 
ing pint  of  unsifted  flour.  Stir  with 
a stout  spoon  until  all  the  flour  dis- 
appears. If  the  measure  of  milk 
proves  too  small  to  take  up  all  the 
flour,  sprinkle  on  a few  drops  of 
water ; too  much  wetting  will  make 
the  biscuits  tough.  Place  to  raise, 
for  five  hours,  where  the  temperature 
ranges  from  eighty  to  ninety  de- 
grees. The  pan  must  not  come  in 
direct  contact  with  a hot  surface ; 
heat  should  be  derived  from  radia- 
tion, for  if  sponge  be  subjected  to  too 
great  heat  it  becomes  thin  and  pasty. 

The  mixing-pan  should  be  of  tin 
or  crockery  ware,  several  times  larger 
than  the  lump  of  dough,  to  allow 


Buns 


BREAD,  ETC. 


Buns,  Hot  Cross 


room  for  increase  in  size,  and  be  pro- 
vided with  a close-fitting  tin  cover 
for  the  purpose  of  excluding  the  air 
and  keeping  in  the  moisture.  When 
the  five  hours  have  expired,  turn  the 
sponge  on  to  a lightly  floured  board 
or  pie-tin,  and  knead  for  two  min- 
utes. If  the  dough  sticks,  dredge 
on  a little  flour  from  time  to  time ; a 
table-spoonful  in  all  will  be  enough. 

Divide  the  dough  into  sections, 
rolling  each  between  the  palms  into 
little  balls.  Place  in  a greased  pan, 
allowing  only  the  outer  edges  of  the 
balls  to  meet. 

The  pan  should  be  about  an  inch 
and  a half  in  depth,  with  another  of 
the  same  size  to  fit  over  closely  for  a 
cover  while  raising.  Raise  for  three 
hours  in  same  temperature  as  first 
directed.  When  ready  for  the  oven 
the  little  balls  will  have  expanded 
and  risen  until  they  form  one  rounded 
whole,  with  slight  depressions  show- 
ing the  dividing -lines.  Bake  for  fif- 
teen or  twenty  minutes  in  a quick 
oven  and  serve  hot. 

Buns.  — One  and  one-quarter  lbs. 
flour  and  J4  lb.  butter  rubbed  fine 
together,  one  wineglass  of  home-made 
yeast  or  one-half  cake  compressed 
yeast,  one  wineglass  of  brandy  and 
rose-water  mixed,  four  eggs  beaten 
light,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  currants, 
one  teaspoonful  of  spice,  nutmeg, 
and  cinnamon;  add  a pint  of  warm 
milk,  and  put  to  rise.  When  light, 
stir  gently  with  ^4  lb.  of  finely  pow- 
dered sugar.  Make  into  forms  ; when 
sufficiently  raised,  bake,  and  just 
as  you  take  from  the  oven  sift  over 
them  powdered  sugar. 

Buns,  Bath. — Put  i lb.  of  flour  into 
a pan,  and  make  a hole  in  the  centre 
of  the  flour,  into  which  pour  one  table- 
spoonful of  yeast  and  one  cupful  of 
milk,  slightly  warmed.  Mix  these  to- 
gether with  a little  of  the  flour,  and 
leave  it  near  the  fire  to  rise.  Dissolve 
6 ozs.  of  butter,  and  beat  up  four  eggs  ; 
add  this  to  the  sponge,  and  knead  all 
together.  The  dough  must  be  again 
allowed  to  rise ; and  when  it  has  well 


risen,  which  will  be  in  about  an  hour, 
put  small  balls  of  this  mixture  on  a 
well-greased  oven-tin  two  or  three 
inches  apart.  This  dough  being 
light,  it  will  fall  into  the  required 
shape.  Sprinkle  loaf  sugar  on  the 
top,  or  brush  the  buns  over  with  a 
mixture  of  egg  and  milk.  Five  or 
six  caraway  comfits  and  lemon  or 
citron-peel  may  be  added.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Buns,  Breakfast.  — Take  the  chill 
off  a quarter  of  a pint  of  milk,  and  mix 
it  with  the  same  quantity  of  fresh 
yeast ; add  % lb.  of  butter,  melted 
but  not  hot,  sugar  to  taste,  and  a 
couple  of  eggs  well  beaten,  and  then, 
very  gradually,  sufficient  flour  to 
make  a tolerably  firm  dough.  Put 
it  into  small  tins,  well  oiling  them 
first ; set  them  before  the  fire  for 
about  twenty  minutes  to  rise,  and 
bake  in  a quick  oven.  Time  to  bake, 
twenty  minutes.  Sufficient  for  a 
dozen  buns. 

Buns,  Forfarshire  Tea.  — One 

pound  of  flour,  3 ozs.  of  butter,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  a 
few  Sultana  raisins  carefully  stoned 
and  rubbed,  two  eggs,  one  cup  of 
milk.  Keep  a little  of  the  eggs  to 
brush  over  the  buns.  Rub  the 
butter  into  the  flour,  add  the  sugar 
and  the  baking-powder,  mix  every- 
thing thoroughly  well  together,  and 
bake  in  small  cake-tins. 

Buns,  Hot  Cross. — Make  a sponge 
of  a cup  and  a half  of  milk,  half  a 
yeast  cake  dissolved  in  half  a cup  of 
warm  water,  and  flour  enough  to 
make  a thick  batter.  Set  in  a warm 
place  overnight.  In  the  morning 
add  two  large  spoonfuls  of  butter, 
melted ; half  a cup  of  sugar,  a salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  as  much  cinna- 
mon or  grated  nutmeg.  Work  in 
more  flour  until  the  dough  can  be 
handled,  kneading  it  well.  Cover, 
and  let  it  rise  in  a warm  corner  for 
five  hours  longer,  then  roll  out  into  a 
sheet  about  half  an  inch  thick,  and 
cut  into  rounds,  like  biscuit.  Lay 

33 


3 


Cakes,  Belvidere 


BREAD,  ETC 


Dodgers,  Corn 


them  in  a buttered  baking-pan,  let 
them  rise  half  an  hour,  cut  a cross 
upon  each,  and  put  into  the  oven. 
When  they  are  baked  to  a light  brown, 
brush  over  with  white  of  egg  beaten  up 
with  fine  sugar,  and  take  from  the 
oven. 

Cakes,  Belvidere.  — One  quart  of 
flour,  four  eggs,  a piece  of  butter  the 
size  of  an  egg,  a piece  of  lard  the  same 
size.  Mix  the  butter  and  lard  well 
with  the  flour ; beat  the  eggs  very 
light  in  a pint  bowl.  Fill  it  up  with 
cold  milk ; then  pour  it  gradually  into 
the  flour,  which  must  be  made  into  a 
tolerably  stiff  dough.  Add  a tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  work  briskly 
for  eight  or  ten  minutes.  Roll  out 
the  dough,  cut  into  shape,  and  bake 
in  a quick  oven. 

Cakes,  Breakfast. — Three  eggs,  one 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one  coffee-cup 
of  sweet  milk,  one  cup  of  warm  water, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  yeast,  flour 
enough  to  make  a stiff  batter.  Add 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  when  the  batter 
has  risen,  also  a pinch  of  salt.  If 
started  the  night  before,  they  will  be 
as  light  as  puffs. 

Cakes,  Corn. — Two  cups  of  sour 
milk;  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
melted ; three  eggs,  beaten  very  light ; 
one  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and 
soda  ; two  cups  of  corn  meal,  or  enough 
to  make  a rather  thin  batter.  Add 
the  melted  butter  to  the  beaten  eggs, 
dissolve  the  soda  in  a table-spoonful 
of  boiling  water,  add  this  to  the  milk, 
and  mix  with  the  eggs  and  butter. 
Have  the  meal  ready  sifted  with  the 
salt,  put  all  together,  beat  hard,  and 
bake  in  a shallow  baking-pan  for 
about  half  an  hour. 

Cakes,  Lapland. — Take  five  eggs, 
beat  the  whites  and  yolks  separately 
till  both  are  as  light  as  may  be ; then 
mix  them  together,  and  add  one  pint  of 
rich  cream,  with  about  one  pint  of  sifted 
flour.  Half  fill  small  tin  shapes  with 
the  batter,  and  bake  in  a well-heated 
oven.  Ten  minutes  should  suffice 


for  the  baking,  and  the  cakes  should 
be  sent  to  the  table  while  piping  hot. 

Cakes,  Mahogany.  — One  cup  of 

sweet  milk,  one  large  egg,  one  cup  of 
flour;  mix  well  and  bake  in  cups  for 
half  an  hour  in  a quick  oven.  This 
is  an  excellent  breakfast  cake. 

Cakes,  Orange.— One  quart  of  flour, 
one  cupful  of  butter,  four  eggs,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  yeast.  Make  into 
a stiff  batter  at  night  with  milk. 
Next  morning  add  a teacupful  of 
corn  meal.  Beat  all  well  together, 
and  put  into  cups  to  rise  before  bak- 
ing. 

Cakes,  Turnover,  or  Pockets. — 

Take  one  quart  of  flour,  sifted,  and 
divide  it  into  two  equal  portions.  To 
one  pint  add  three  eggs  very  well 
beaten,  one  large  table  - spoonful  of 
butter  and  lard  mixed,  two  teaspoon- 
fuls of  sweet  yeast,  and  milk  enough 
to  make  it  into  a moderately  soft  bat- 
ter. Put  it  down  to  rise,  and  after  it 
has  risen  work  in  the  other  half  of 
the  flour  so  as  to  make  it  into  a 
nice  dough.  Then  roll  out  into  thin, 
round  cakes,  somewhat  larger  than 
ordinary  biscuits.  Now  lap  one  end 
back  over  the  other,  so  as  to  repre- 
sent a smaller  upon  a larger  semi- 
circle. Set  them  to  rise  again,  and 
bake  in  a quick  oven. 

Crisps,  Oatmeal.  — These  may  be 
made  of  oatmeal  or  oatmeal  mush, 
mixed  with  boiling  water  to  a stiff 
dough,  then  kneaded  a little,  mixed 
with  a little  wheat  meal  to  prevent  its 
crumbling,  moulded,  cut  into  small, 
thin  cakes,  and  baked  twenty  or 
thirty  minutes  in  a hot  oven.  If 
made  very  thin,  and  kept  in  a cool, 
dry  place,  they  will  retain  a rich 
flavor  for  several  days. 

Dodgers,  Corn.  — Sift  a quart  of 
good,  sweet  meal,  add  a teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  stir  in  cold  water,  knead- 
ing all  ^he  time  until  the  mixture  is 
of  a consistency  to  be  easily  moulded 
with  the  hands  into  little,  oblong- 


34 


Drops,  Rye 


BREAD,  ETC 


Muffins,  Corn 


shaped  cakes.  Place  these  cakes  side 
by  side  in  a stove-pan,  and  bake  until 
a good,  brown  crust  has  been  formed. 

Drops,  Rye. — One  cup  of  butter- 
milk, three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar, 
one  well-beaten  egg,  one  level  tea- 
spoonful of  soda,  and  one  salt-spoon- 
ful of  cinnamon.  Make  a stiff  batter 
by  the  addition  of  rye  flour.  This 
is  to  be  dropped  by  large  spoonfuls 
into  boiling  lard,  dipping  the  spoon 
first  in  hot  fat.  Serve  while  warm. 

Gems. — Stir  into  ice-cold  water  any 
kind  of  meal,  and  mix  to  a batter 
that  will  lift  with  a spoon  and  settle 
smooth  of  itself ; drop  immediately 
into  hot  iron  gem  - pans ; let  them 
stand  on  the  top  of  the  stove  a few 
minutes,  then  bake  in  a hot  oven  thirty 
or  forty  minutes.  When  done  they 
should  be  light  and  dry  when  broken. 

Gems,  Graham. — Stir  into  a quart 
of  warm  (not  hot)  milk  five  eggs 
beaten  very  light,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  melted  butter.  Whip 
long  and  hard.  Have  ready  three 
cups  of  Graham  flour  sifted  with  a 
half-teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a heap- 
ing teaspoonful  of  baking-powder. 
Beat  this  prepared  flour  into  the  milk- 
and-egg  mixture,  adding  more  flour 
if  the  batter  seems  too  thin.  Turn 
into  heated  gem-pans,  and  bake  at 
once  in  a very  hot  oven. 

Griddle  Cakes.  See  Pancakes. 

Johnny  Cake  (Southern). — Equal 
proportions  of  fine  hominy,  rice,  and 
rice  flour.  The  two  former  must  be 
boiled  and  cold  before  the  rice  flour 
is  added.  Mix  all  with  milk;  then 
spread  on  a board,  and  bake  it  before 
the  fire.  Split  open  and  butter  for 
the  table. 

Johnny  Cake  (New  England).  — 
One  pint  of  coarse  Indian  meal  in 
sufficient  boiling  water,  with  salt  to 
taste,  to  make  a stiff  batter.  Add 
a little  milk  to  thin  and  bake  on  a 
greased  griddle. 


Muffins.  — Warm  a pint  of  milk, 
add  a table-spoonful  of  fresh  yeast, 
a pinch  of  salt,  the  white  of  two  eggs, 
frothed,  and  a little  lump  of  saleratus, 
the  size  of  a pea,  dissolved  in  warm 
water.  Put  these  ingredients  into  a 
bowl,  and  add  sufficient  flour  to  make 
a soft  dough.  Put  it  in  a warm 
place  to  rise  for  two  or  three  hours, 
being  careful  to  cover  the  bowl  with 
a cloth.  Take  out,  on  the  end  of  a 
spoon,  enough  dough  for  one  muffin 
at  a time,  drop  it  on  a floured  board, 
and  shake  it  until  it  is  the  proper 
form.  Let  the  muffins  rise  again, 
then  place  carefully  on  a griddle ; when 
one  side  is  slightly  browned,  turn  on 
the  other.  When  done,  divide  the 
edge  of  the  muffin  all  round  with  the 
thumb  and  finger ; toast  it  gently, 
first  on  one  side,  then  on  the  other; 
tear  it  open,  and  place  two  or  three 
lumps  of  butter  between,  and  cut  into 
quarters.  Send  hot  to  table.  Time, 
about  twenty  minutes  to  bake. 

Muffins,  Betty’s.  — Into  two  cups 
of  flour  sift  two  heaping  teaspoonfuls 
of  baking-powder,  add  a pinch  of 
salt,  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  one 
cup  and  a half  of  milk,  two  well- 
beaten  eggs.  Bake  in  a moderate 
oven  and  serve  promptly. 

Muffins,  Bran. — Two  teacupfuls  of 
unbolted  flour  and  one  of  white  wheat 
flour,  one  pint  of  rich  milk,  two  eggs, 
and  a little  salt.  Beat  all  well  to- 
gether. 

Muffins,  Corn.  — Mix  thoroughly 
together  a cup  of  corn  meal,  a cup  of 
wheat  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder,  and  one  of  salt.  Add 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  granulated 
sugar,  and,  when  you  have  stirred 
this  in,  pour  upon  the  mixture  enough 
milk  to  make  a very  stiff  batter ; then 
beat  into  this  three  well-whipped 
eggs.  Beat  hard  for  two  minutes 
and  pour  into  greased  muffin-tins. 
The  tins  should  be  three-quarters  full 
of  the  raw  batter.  Bake  quickly  in 
a good  oven.  They  should  be  done 
in  fifteen  minutes. 


Muffins,  Cream 


BREAD  , ETC.  Auntie’s  Griddle  Cakes 


Muffins,  Cream.  — Mix  together 
well  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  milk, 
and  one-half  cupful  of  melted  butter. 
Sift  in  a little  flour  with  two  teaspoon- 
fuls of  baking-powder,  and  the  white 
of  an  egg  beaten  to  a stiff  froth.  Add 
enough  sifted  flour  to  make  a thick 
batter.  Bake  in  muffin-tins  in  a hot 
oven. 

Muffins,  English.  — Stir  into  three 
cups  of  warm  (not  hot)  milk  a half- 
teaspoonful of  salt,  one  and  a half 
teaspoonfuls  of  granulated  sugar, 
and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  melted 
butter.  In  this  warm  mixture  dis- 
solve half  a yeast  cake.  Last  of  all, 
stir  in  a quart  of  flour,  then  add 
as  much  more  flour  as  is  needed  to 
make  a very  soft  dough.  Beat  hard 
for  five  minutes,  and  set  in  a warm 
place  to  rise.  At  the  end  of  six  hours 
turn  the  dough  upon  a floured  pastry- 
board,  and  with  a sharp  knife  cut  off 
pieces  about  half  as  large  as  the  or- 
dinary English  muffin.  With  floured 
hands  form  the  pieces  of  dough  quick- 
ly and  lightly  into  round  muffins, 
patting  them  into  the  proper  shape. 
Lay  these  gently  upon  a heated  soap- 
stone griddle,  and  let  them  bake 
slowly  until  double  their  original 
size.  When  browned  on  one  side, 
turn  and  bake  upon  the  other.  They 
will  take  about  twenty-five  minutes 
to  bake. 

Muffins,  Graham.  — Stir  together 
in  a deep  bowl  four  eggs,  and  turn 
upon  them  a quart  of  lukewarm 
milk,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  melted 
butter,  and  a teaspoonful  of  sugar. 


PANCAKES  AND 

Auntie’s  Griddle  Cakes.  — One 

quart  of  sweet  milk,  four  eggs,  butter 
the  size  of  an  egg,  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  yeast,  a teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  flour  enough  to  form  a thin  batter. 
Warm  the  milk  and  butter  together 


Whip  in  gradually  three  cups  of 
Graham  flour,  then  beat  hard  for 
fully  five  minutes.  Have  ready 
heated  and  greased  muffin-tins,  half 
fill  them  with  the  batter,  and  bake 
immediately  in  a very  hot  oven.  If 
the  oven  is  as  hot  as  it  should  be, 
ten  minutes’  baking  will  suffice  to 
make  them  light,  puffy,  and  brown. 
They  should  be  eaten  as  soon  as 
baked,  as  ijiey  fall  if  allowed  to 
stand. 

Muffins,  Potato.  — Scoop  the  in- 
side from  four  large,  freshly  baked 
potatoes.  Beat  this  flour  until  it  is 
quite  smooth,  and  add  to  it  a pinch 
of  salt,  2 ozs.  of  clarified  butter,  and 
as  much  warm  water  as  will  make 
a thin  batter.  Beat  three  eggs,  and 
add  them  to  the  mixture,  together 
with  three  pints  of  best  flour.  Dis- 
solve a teaspoonful  of  soda  in  a pint 
of  lukewarm  water,  knead  this  with 
a cupful  of  fresh  yeast  into  the  dough, 
and  let  it  rise  all  night.  The  next 
morning  bake  the  muffins  in  rings 
upon  a griddle,  and,  when  one  side  is 
lightly  browned,  turn  them  upon 
the  other.  When  to  be  eaten,  tear 
the  muffin  a little  round  the  edge, 
toast  it  on  both  sides,  divide,  butter, 
and  afterwards  quarter  it.  Time  to 
bake  the  muffins,  about  twenty  min- 
utes. 

Muffins,  Rice. — Half  a pint  of  rice 
boiled  and  mashed  very  smooth. 
Soften  this  paste  by  slowly  adding 
one  cupful  of  milk,  three  well-beaten 
eggs,  salt,  and  as  much  flour  as  will 
make  it  the  same  consistency  as 
pound-cake  batter. 


GRIDDLE  CAKES 

till  they  are  mixed,  and  let  them  cool. 
Beat  the  eggs  till  light,  add  to  the 
milk  and  butter,  and  stir  in  the  flour 
to  a thin  batter.  Add  the  other  in- 
gredients, the  yeast  last,  and  stand 
to  rise  for  three  hours.  Bake  on  a 


Bread  Griddle  Cakes  BREAD,  ETC 


Pancakes 


well-buttered  griddle,  and  as  each 
cake  is  taken  off  put  on  it  a piece 
of  butter  and  a sprinkling  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  and  spice  to  the  taste. 

Bread  Griddle  Cakes.  — Grate  the 
crumb  of  a stale  loaf  of  bread,  and  sift 
out  all  the  lumps.  Stir  in  milk  till 
a thick  batter  is  formed.  Beat  eggs, 
allowing  two  to  every  pint  of  milk, 
till  smooth,  and  add  to  the  batter; 
add  a little  salt.  Beat  all  well  to- 
gether, and  bake  on  a well-buttered 
griddle. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. — Two  cups  of 
buckwheat  flour,  half  a cake  of  com- 
pressed yeast,  a small  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  half  a cup  of  Indian  meal, 
two  table  - spoonfuls  of  molasses. 
Use  enough  warm  water  to  make  a 
thin  batter,  beat  briskly  and  put  in  a 
warm  place  for  the  night,  in  a crock, 
and  in  the  morning  stir  in  baking- 
soda  the  size  of  a pea.  In  cold  weath- 
er no  other  raising  will  be  needed  for 
a week  or  ten  days  than  to  leave  about 
a cupful  of  the  old  batter  in  the  bot- 
tom, adding  flour,  water,  etc.,  at 
night,  and  beating  all  well.  If  buck- 
wheat cakes  are  made  too  small  they 
cool  easily.  They  may  be  as  thin 
and  dainty  as  possible,  but  should 
be  of  pretty  good  size. 

Another  way: — Three  parts  by 
measure  of  buckwheat  flour  to  one 
parb  of  Graham  flour,  and  mix  with 
buttermilk  instead  of  water.  Keep- 
ing buckwheat  batter  is  often  very 
troublesome,  especially  in  mild  weath- 
er. It  can  be  kept  perfectly  sweet 
by  pouring  cold  water  over  that  left 
from  one  morning,  and  which  is  in- 
tended to  be  used  for  raising  the  next 
morning's  cakes.  Fill  the  vessel 
entirely  full  of  water,  and  put  in  a 
cool  place ; when  ready  to  use,  pour 
off  the  water,  which  absorbs  the 
acidity. 

Buttermilk  Griddle  Cakes.  — To 

have  the  cakes  light  and  in  perfection 
the  buttermilk  must  not  be  strained, 
but  should  have  the  little  particles 
of  butter  floating  in  it.  To  a pint 


of  buttermilk  allow  a scant  half-pint 
of  clabbered  milk ; mix,  stirring  in 
flour  enough  to  make  a stiff  batter ; 
beat  well,  and  until  the  lumps  are 
all  out;  then  add  a teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  a teaspoonful  of  soda  finely 
powdered  and  thoroughly  stirred  into 
a gill  of  flour.  Beat  well  into  the 
batter ; add  enough  buttermilk  to 
make  it  of  the  consistency  of  buck- 
wheat cakes. 

Corn  Griddle  Cakes.  — Take  the 
fine,  white  meal,  and  stir  rich  butter- 
milk into  it  until  it  is  almost  the  con- 
sistency of  thin  mush ; add  a little 
soda,  and  salt  to  taste.  Have  the 
griddle  hot  and  well  buttered. 

Corn-meal  Griddle  Cakes.  — Two 

cups  of  boiling  milk,  one  cup  of  corn 
meal,  half-cup  of  flour,  two  eggs, 
one  table-spoonful  each  of  butter 
and  molasses,  one  heaping  teaspoon- 
ful of  baking-powder,  salt-spoonful 
of  salt.  Pour  the  boiling  milk  over 
the  meal,  as  directed  in  recipe  for 
raised  corn  bread.  When  cool,  add 
the  butter,  melted ; the  molasses,  salt, 
and  flour,  and  lastly  the  eggs,  beaten 
very  light.  If  the  batter  is  too  stiff, 
thin  with  cold  milk  to  the  right  con- 
sistency. 

Flannel  Cakes. — One  quart  of  flour, 
two  eggs,  one  large  kitchen-spoonful 
of  yeast,  sweet  milk  enough  to  make 
a thin  batter;  beat  all  well  together 
and  set  to  rise  during  the  night.  If 
the  batter  should  become  too  thick, 
add  a little  more  milk  or  water. 

Indian -meal  Johnny  Cake. — Five 
gills  of  meal,  3 ozs.  of  butter,  one  tea- 
spoonful of  salt.  Mix  up  with  milk. 

Pancakes. — Put  into  a basin  % lb. 
of  sifted  flour,  one  egg,  one-quarter 
of  a gill  of  milk;  stir  to  a smooth 
paste  ; then  add  one  and  three-quarter 

' gills  of  milk,  2 ozs.  of  fresh  butter, 
melted,  and  a small  pinch  of  salt ; 
mix  well,  and,  if  lumpy,  strain  this 
batter.  Put  a small  piece  of  butter 
into  a pancake-pan ; when  melted, 

37 


Pancakes 


BREAD,  ETC. 


Rice  Griddle  Cakes 


pour  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the 
batter;  spread  it  so  as  to  cover  the 
pan  entirely;  fry  till  colored  on  one 
.side;  then  toss  it  over  and  cook  the 
other  side,  and  turn  the  pancake  out 
on  a dish.  When  all  the  batter  is 
cooked  in  this  way,  sprinkle  the  pan- 
cakes with  sugar,  and  serve  on  a verv 
hot  dish,  with  a cut  lemon.  Pan- 
cakes should  be  eaten  as  soon  as 
fried. 

Another  refcipe ' Take  a pint  of 
cream,  six  eggs,  three  table-spoon- 
iuls  of  flour,  three  of  wine,  one  of 
rose-water,  % lb.  of  sugar,  % lb.  of 
melted  butter  almost  cold,  and  half 
a nutmeg  grated.  Mix  these  well 
together.  Fry  until  they  become 
delicately  brown.  Let  the  batter  be 
as  thin  as  possible. 

Pancakes  (without  Eggs  or  Milk). 
—Mix  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour 
with  a small  pinch  of  salt,  two  or 
three  grates  of  nutmeg,  and  a dessert- 
spoonful of  moist  sugar.  Make  a 
smooth  batter  by  mixing  with  the 
flour,  etc.,  very  gradually,  half  a 
pint  of  mild  ale,  and  beat  it  fully  ten 
minutes.  Fry  the  pancakes  in  the 
usual  way,  and  serve  them  with  moist 
sugar  sprinkled  between  them.  Time, 
ten  minutes  to  fry  each  pancake. 

Pancakes,  French.— Beat  well  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs,  mix  them  into  i lb. 
of  flour,  add  a glass  of  brandy,  and, 
with  an  equal  quantity  of  good  ale 
and  water,  dilute  the  paste  until  it  is 
of  the  consistency  of  cream.  Let 
this  remain  for  two  hours  before 
using,  then  put  a piece  of  butter  as 
large  as  a walnut  into  the  frying- 
pan;  hold  it  over  a clear  fire  until  it 
smokes;  put  in  enough  batter  to 
cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and 
when  nicely  browned  on  one  side 
turn  it,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  done  serve 
with  lemon,  ginger  sauce,  or  spiced 
sugar  apart.  Put  in  another  piece 
of  butter  for  each  succeeding  pan- 
cake you  have  to  fry. 

Pancakes,  Snow. — Freshly  fallen 
snow  may  be  used  instead  of  eggs 


in  making  batter  for  pancakes.  Care 
must  of  course  be  taken  that  the  snow 
is  as  pure  as  possible.  The  batter 
should  be  made  rather  thick,  and  the 
snow  mixed  with  each  pancake  just 
before  it  is  put  into  the  pan.  As  a 
general  rule  it  may  be  calculated 
that  two  table-spoonfuls  of  snow  will 
be  equal  to  one  egg. 

Popovers.  — One  cupful  of  milk 
one  egg  one  cupful  of  flour,  and  a 
little  salt.  Beat  well,  and  put  a 
table-spoonful  of  the  batter  in  very 
small  tin  pans.  Bake  quickly  and 
serve  immediately. 

Puffs,  Breakfast.  — Beat  up  two 
eggs  very  light,  adding  to  them  one 
quart  oi  sweet  milk,  and  gradually 
creaming  into  it  sifted  flour  and  a 
little  salt,  until  it  is  of  the  consistency 
of  waffle  batter.  Bake  quickly  in  tin 
puff-pans. 

Puffs,  Germantown.  — Beat  the 
whites  of  six  eggs  till  they  stand 
alone,  and  the  yolks  thoroughly. 
Cream  in  by  degrees  nine  table- 
spoonfuls of  flour.  Put  in  a table- 
spoonful of  melted  butter  and  a tea- 
spoonful of  salt;  then  make  into  a 
batter  with  one  pint  of  sweet  milk. 
Bake  in  little  patty-pans. 

Puffs,  Hasty.— stir  2 ozs.  of  flour 
quickly  and  smoothly  into  half  a 
pint  of  boiling  milk  which  has  been 
sweetened  and  flavored  with  lemon- 
rind  or  nutmeg.  Boil  up,  then  add 
2 ozs.  of  butter,  and,  when  cool,  two 
eggs  well  beaten.  Butter  four  small 
moulds.  Pour  a quarter  of  the  mixt- 
ure into  each,  and  bake  in  a good 
oven.  Turn  out  before  serving,  and 
place  a little  jam  on  the  top  of  each 
puff.  Time,  ten  to  fifteen  minutes 


Rice  Griddle  Cakes.  — To  half  a 
teacupful  of  whole  rice  allow  three 
eggs,  half  a pint  of  rich,  sweet  milk 
and  half  a teaspoonful  of  salt.  Boil 
the  rice  till  every  grain  is  thoroughly 
dissolved;  stand  aside  till  it  jellies. 


Rice  Pancakes 


BREAD,  ETC 


Rusk 


Beat  the  jelly  in  the  milk,  slightly 
warmed,  till  smoothly  mixed.  Beat 
the  eggs  till  very  smooth  and  light, 
and  add  to  the  rice  and  milk  with 
salt.  If  the  batter  does  not  adhere 
well  together,  add  the  yolk  of  another 
egg.  Flour  spoils  them. 

Rice  Pancakes. — One  pint  of  boiled 
rice,  one  pint  of  flour,  a teacupful  of 
sweet  milk,  half-tea  cupful  of  sour 
milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two 
eggs,  and  a piece  of  butter  the  size  of 
a walnut. 

Rolls,  Breakfast. — To  i lb.  of  flour 

allow  I oz.  of  butter,  one  egg,  a tea- 
spoonful of  baking-powder,  and  sweet 
milk  enough  to  make  a soft  dough. 
Rub  the  butter  and  flour  well  to- 
gether, add  the  egg  (beaten  till  light), 
a pinch  of  salt,  and  the  milk,  till  a 
soft  dough  is  mixed.  Form  into  rolls 
and  bake  in  a quick  oven. 

Rolls,  Brentford. — Into  2 lbs.  of 
sifted  flour  rub  very  thoroughly 
Y\  lb.  of  freshened  butter  and  one 
coffee-cupful  of  sand  sugar;  into  one 
pint  of  new  milk,  which  has  been 
boiled  and  cooled,  beat  lightly  the 
yolks  and  whites  of  two  eggs,  and 
add  to  the  flour ; put  in  a gill  of  yeast, 
and  beat  all  well  together  until  bub- 
bles appear ; then  place  in  a warm 
room  to  rise.  In  the  rising  lies  the 
secret  of  one's  success,  for  the  dough 
must  be  so  light  that  it  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  being  sour.  Mould  it 
into  rolls ; place  in  buttered  pans,  not 
allowing  them  to  touch ; let  them  rise 
again,  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in 
a quick  oven. 

Rolls,  French. — Make  them  up  over- 
night with  yeast  as  for  light  bread, 
adding  the  yolk  of  an  egg  to  each 
pint  of  flour ; work  it  well,  and  in  the 
morning  work  in  1 oz.  of  butter  to 
a pint  of  flour.  Bake  quickly  and 
serve  as  soon  as  done.  After  putting 
the  butter  in  the  dough  it  should 
stand  to  rise  until  half  an  hour  before 
baking,  when  the  dough  should  be 
formed  into  rolls  and  covered  with 


a towel  until  the  oven  is  ready 
for  them.  Make  into  long,  narrow- 
shaped rolls  of  small  size. 

Rolls,  Hot.  — When  hot  rolls  are 
sent  in  from  the  baker's  for  break- 
fast, they  should  be  put  into  the  oven 
as  soon  as  they  arrive.  Two  min- 
utes before  they  are  to  be  served 
take  them  out,  divide  them  length- 
wise, and  put  some  thin  slices  of 
butter  between  the  rolls ; press  them 
together,  and  return  them  to  the 
oven  for  one  minute.  Take  them 
out,  spread  the  butter,  place  them  on 
a hot  dish,  and  serve  immediately. 

Rolls,  Vienna. — Finest  wheat  flour, 
8 lbs. ; milk,  three  and  one-half  quarts  ; 
water,  three  and  one  - half  quarts ; 
compressed  yeast,  3%  ozs. ; salt,  1 
oz.  After  all  the  materials  have  ac- 
quired the  temperature  of  the  room, 
the  flour  is  poured  in  a loose  heap  in 
the  middle  of  the  baking-trough,  and 
a small  quantity  of  the  heap  on  one 
side  mixed  to  a thin  dough  with  the 
milk  and  water  previously  poured 
together,  and  mixed  with  yeast  and 
salt.  The  dough  is  allowed  to  stand 
three-quarters  of  an  hour,  well  cov- 
ered. After  this  time,  or  as  soon  as 
fermentation  has  begun,  the  dough 
is  mixed  intimately  with  the  remain- 
der of  the  flour  and  the  rest  of  the 
liquid,  and  left  to  rise  for  two  hours 
and  a half.  It  is  then  cut  into  pieces 
weighing  each  1 lb.,  each  of  which  is 
divided  into  twelve  square  pieces  of 
equal  weight.  The  corners  of  each 
of  these  squares  having  been  turned 
over  to  the  centre,  the  cakes  are  put 
into  the  oven  and  baked  for  fifteen 
minutes.  The  heating  must  be  uni- 
form. If  the  oven  is  hotter  in  one 
place  than  another,  the  cakes  must  be 
shifted  about.  To  impart  a gloss  to 
the  cakes,  they  are  brushed  over  with 
a sponge  dipped  in  milk. 

Rusk  (No.  1). — One  teacupful  of 
sugar,  two  eggs  beaten  together,  one 
cupful  of  warm  milk,  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  butter,  one  cupful  of  lively 
yeast.  Stir  in  flour  until  nearly  as 

39 


Rusk 


BREAD,  ETC. 


Toast,  Buttered 


stiff  as  pound-cake  batter.  Set  the 
dough  to  rise  in  the  evening,  and  in 
the  morning  mould  out  into  rolls 
with  as  little  flour  as  possible.  When 
well  risen,  bake. 

Rusk  (No.  2).— One  quart  of  flour, 
half  a teacupful  of  yeast,  a half-pint 
of  milk,  two  eggs,  a teacupful  of 
sugar,  a table  - spoonful  of  butter, 
half  a nutmeg  grated.  Set  a sponge 
with  half  the  flour,  the  milk,  and 
yeast.  Let  it  stand  in  a moderately 
warm  place  eight  hours,  then  mix  in 
the  rest  of  the  flour,  together  with 
the  eggs,  sugar,  and  butter.  Mould 
the  dough  into  such  form  as  is  pre- 
ferred, and  let  the  rolls  or  biscuits 
stand  in  a warm  place  to  rise  for  two 
hours  longer.  Then  bake  in  a quick 
oven.  It  improves  the  appearance 
oi  rusks  to  brush  them  over  with 
raw  egg,  and  then  sift  sugar  or  sugar 
and  cinnamon  over  them  just  before 
being  put  in  to  bake. 


simple  process.  The  barley  meal, 
with  the  addition  of  salt  to  taste, 
should  be  mixed  with  hot  milk  till  it 
forms  a thick  paste.  Roll  out  thin 
and  cut  into  scones.  Bake  in  a 
quick  oven  or  on  a griddle  over  a 
bright  fire.  They  should  be  buttered 
and  eaten  hot. 

Scones,  Milk. — Mix  in  a bowl  i 
lbs.  of  flour,  a teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder,  a pint  of  sour  milk,  and  a 
little  salt.  Knead  a little  with  the 
hands,  roll  it  out,  and  bake  in  a quick 
oven  for  ten  minutes. 

Scones,  Nannie’s.  — One  pound  of 
flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  carbonate 
of  soda,  a little  salt  to  taste,  also  a 
small  pinch  of  fine  sugar,  one  tea- 
spoonful cream  of  tartar,  buttermilk 
as  much  as  will  make  a thin  batter. 
Mix  the  ingredients  thoroughly  to- 
gether, cut  into  round  cakes,  and 
bake  on  a griddle  over  the  fire. 


. Sallylunns.  — Rub  J4  lb.  of  butter 
into  2 lbs.  of  flour.  Add  a teaspoon- 
iul  of  salt,  a quarter  of  a pint  of  fresh 
yeast  mixed  with  a pint  of  lukewarm 
milk,  and  three  well-beaten  eggs. 
Cover  the  pan,  and  let  it  rise  till  light.’ 
Make  the  dough  into  thick  cakes 
about  five  inches  in  diameter.  Bake 
in  a quick  oven.  Or  rub  2 ozs.  of 
butter  into  1 lb.  of  flour.  Add  a 
pinch  of  salt,  and  pour  in  very  slowly 
a table-spoonful  of  fresh  yeast  which 
has  been  mixed  with  half  a pint  of 
warm  milk.  Beat  the  batter  with  a 
fork  or  spoon  as  the  milk  is  poured 
in,  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and 
set  the  dough  near  the  fire  to'  rise. 
Butter  the  tins,  fill  them  with  the 
dough,  and  bake  in  a quick  oven, 
lo  prepare  the  sallylunns,  make 
them  hot,  divide  them  into  three 
slices,  and  butter  these  liberally 
berve  at  once.  If  a very  rich  cake 
is  required,  cream  may  be  used  in- 
stead of  milk.  Time  to  bake,  about 
twenty  minutes. 

Barley. — The  preparation 
W these  wholesome  cakes  is  a very 


Scones,  Scotch.— Sift  together  twice 

one  cupful  of  white  flour,  three  cupfuls 
°r  u 1 • oa^mea^  two  teaspoonfuls 
ol  baking-powder,  and  one  of  salt. 
Airing  to  a boil  a pint  of  sweet  milk, 
and  stir  into  it  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter  and  one  of  sugar.  When  the 
butter  has  melted  make  a hollow  in 
the  flour  and  meal,  and  pour  in  the 
milk.  Stir  to  a soft  dough,  turn  out 
upon  a floured  board,  and  roll  quickly 
and  lightly  into  a sheet  not  more 
than  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Cut 
out  in  rounds  like  biscuit  and  bake 
on  a ?oaPst°ne  griddle, 
vyhen  the  lower  sides  are  done  to  a 
rich  brown,  turn  the  scones.  If 
they  are  to  be  eaten  hot,  they  must 
be  buttered  as  soon  as  they  are  taken 
from  the  griddle. 

. Toast>  Buttered.— When  the  bread 
is  iully  toasted,  place  little  pieces  of 
butter  here  and  there  upon  it,  put  it 
before  the  fire  for  a minute  or  two  till 
the  butter  is  soft,  then  spread  the  but- 
ter upon  the  toast,  taking  care  not  to 
press  heavily  upon  the  bread  or  the 
toast  will  be  heavy.  Cut  each  slice 


Toast,  Dry 


BREAD,  ETC 


Waffles,  Ingleside 


separately  into  strips  an  inch  and  a 
half  broad,  and  pile  these  on  a hot 
dish.  If  one  or  two  slices  are  cut 
through  together,  the  butter  will  sink 
from  the  upper  piece  to  the  lower. 
Buttered  toast  should  be  prepared  at 
the  last  moment,  and  served  very 
hot. 

Toast,  Dry. — Be  careful  to  have 
a clear,  bright  fire.  Cut  as  many 
slices  as  may  be  required  from  a loaf 
of  bread  two  days  old.  These  slices 
should  be  very  thin  — not  over  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Cut  off 
the  crust,  and  warm  the  bread  on 
both  sides  for  one  minute  before 
toasting  it;  then  put  it  on  the  toast- 
ing-fork, hold  it  a little  distance  from 
the  fire,  move  it  about  till  it  is  lightly 
and  equally  toasted,  and  when  it  is 
done  upon  one  side  turn  it  to  do  the 
other.  Dry  toast  should  be  colored 
gradually,  as  its  perfection  consists 
in  its  being  crisp  and  dry  without 
being  very  dark  and  brown  or  in  the 
least  burned.  It  should  be  made  a 
few  minutes  only  before  it  is  wanted, 
as  it  soon  becomes  heavy.  It  should 
never  be  placed  flat  on  a dish  or  table, 
but  be  put  at  once  in  the  toast-rack, 
or,  if  this  is  not  at  hand,  two  slices 
should  be  made  to  lean  one  against 
the  other.  Toast  should  never  be 
made  with  new  bread. 

Toast,  Egg. — Place  a bowl  con- 
taining 3 ozs.  of  good  butter  in  boil- 
ing water,  and  stir  until  the  butter  is 
quite  melted;  mix  it  with  four  well- 
beaten  eggs,  and  put  them  together 
into  a saucepan,  keeping  it  moving 
round  in  one  direction  until  the  mixt- 
ure becomes  heated ; then  pour  it 
quickly  into  a basin,  and  back  again 
into  the  saucepan.  Repeat  this  until 
it  is  hot,  but  on  no  account  must  it  be 
boiling.  Have  ready  some  slices  of 
buttered  toast,  lay  the  mixture  of  egg 
thickly  over,  and  serve  very  hot. 
Time,  about  five  minutes. 

Toast,  Milk. — Toast  the  bread  a 
light  brown  on  both  sides.  Boil  a 
pint  of  milk;  mix  together  two  tea- 

41 


spoonfuls  of  flour  in  a little  cold  water ; 
stir  this  into  the  boiling  milk.  Let 
it  boil  about  one  minute ; then  add 
a little  salt,  and  stir  into  it  2 ozs.  of 
butter.  Dip  the  toast  in  the  milk, 
place  it  on  a dish,  and  pour  the  re- 
mainder of  the  milk  over  it.  The  toast 
may  be  made  much  richer  by  increas- 
ing the  quantity  of  butter. 

Waffles. — Two  quarts  of  milk,  i lb. 
of  butter  and  a little  lard,  fourteen 
eggs,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  one  cup 
of  yeast,  enough  flour  to  make  a 
batter;  add  the  eggs,  well  beaten, 
last.  Mix  at  noon  to  bake  for  even- 
ing. This  quantity  makes  sixty 
square  waffles ; bake  in  waffle-iron 
and  eat  with  milk  and  sugar ; a little 
ground  cinnamon  mixed  with  some 
sugar  is  very  nice. 

Waffles,  German. — Half  a pound  of 

butter  stirred  to  a cream,  the  yolks  of 
five  eggs  mixed  with  Vz  lb.  of  flour, 
half  a pint  of  milk  gradually  stirred 
in,  and,  lastly,  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
whipped  to  a stiff  froth  and  beaten 
into  the  butter.  Very  rich  and  de- 
licious. 

Waffles,  Ingleside. — Make  one  pint 
of  Indian  meal  into  mush  in  the  usual 
way.  While  hot,  put  in  a small  lump 
of  butter  and  a dessert  - spoonful  of 
salt.  Set  the  mush  aside  to  cool. 
Meanwhile  beat  separately  till  very 
light  the  whites  and  yolks  of  four 
eggs.  Add  the  eggs  to  the  mush, 
and  cream  in  gradually  one  quart  of 
wheaten  flour.  Add  half  a pint  of 
buttermilk  or  sour  cream,  in  which 
has  been  dissolved  half  a teaspoonful 
of  carbonate  of  soda.  Lastly,  bring 
to  the  consistency  of  thin  batter  by 
the  addition  of  sweet  milk.  Waffle- 
irons  should  be  put  on  to  heat  an  hour 
in  advance,  that  they  may  be  in  the 
proper  condition  for  baking  as  soon 
as  the  batter  is  ready.  Have  a brisk 
fire,  butter  the  irons  thoroughly,  but 
with  nicety,  and  bake  quickly.  Fill 
the  irons  only  half  full  of  batter, 
that  the  waffles  may  have  room  to 
rise. 


Waffles,  Quick 


BREAD,  ETC 


Butter-scotch 


Waffles,  Quick. — Sift  together  three 
cups  of  flour,  a heaping  teaspoonful 
of  baking-powder,  and  a quarter  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Beat  light  in 
another  bowl  two  eggs,  and  add  to 
them  two  cups  of  milk.  Now  stir 
the  flour  into  the  milk-and-egg  mixt- 
ure, and  the  batter  is  ready  for  the 
waffle-iron.  The  waffle-iron  must  be 
thoroughly  clean  and  perfectly  dry 
when  it  is  put  away  after  using,  and 
it  must  be  kept  in  a dry  closet,  that  it 
may  not  rust.  To  grease  the  iron 
preparatory  to  baking  waffles,  have 
it  heated.  Then  apply  the  melted 
butter  to  the  interstices  with  a small 


brush;  pour  the  batter  by  the  large 
cupful  into  it,  that  the  iron  may  be 
filled  quickly.  As  soon  as  one  side 
is  full,  close  the  iron  and  turn  the 
under  side  to  the  fire. 

Waffles,  Rice. — One  cup  of  boiled 
rice,  three  eggs,  i oz.  of  butter,  two 
cups  of  sour  milk,  one  teaspoonful 
each  of  salt  and  soda.  Stir  into  the 
rice  the  butter  creamed  and  the  eggs 
frothed;  add  the  salt  and  the  soda, 
stirring  in  the  milk,  adding  flour 
enough  to  make  a rather  thick  batter  ; 
heat  the  buttered  waffle-irons,  which  fill 
three-quarters  full,  and  bake  carefully. 


Brentford  Rolls. 


See  Bread. 


Broiled  Eggs. 
Broth. 


Brown  Bread. 

Sauce. 


See  Eggs. 
See  Soups. 


See  Bread. 
See  Sauces. 


Beef. 

French  Vegetable. 
Mutton. 

Scotch. 

Soubise. 


Brussels  Sprouts. 
Bruvaise  Potage. 
Buckwheat  Cakes. 
Buns. 

Burned  Custard. 

Almonds. 


See  Vegetables. 

See  Soups. 

See  Bread. 

See  Bread. 

See  Custards. 
See  Almonds. 


Butter,  Clarified. — Melt  some  but- 
ter in  a perfectly  clean  saucepan,  re- 
move the  scum,  and  let  the  impurities 
sink  to  the  bottom  when  cooling. 
Strain  it  carefully,  leaving  the  sedi- 
ment at  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan. 
It  may  be  used  instead  of  olive  oil, 


both  for  salads  and  for  other  pur- 
poses. 

Butter,  Maitre  d’Hotel. — Into  one 
cupful  of  good  butter  work  a table- 
spoonful of  lemon-juice  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  finely  chopped  parsley, 
with  a little  salt  and  white  pepper. 
Pack  into  a small  jar,  cover,  and  keep 
in  a cool  place.  It  is  useful  to  put  on 
chops,  steaks,  cutlets,  or  with  potatoes. 

Butter  Sauce.  — Rub  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  flour  and  half  a cupful  of 
butter  until  creamy.  Then  gradual- 
ly add  the  boiling  water.  Stir  con- 
stantly, and  take  from  the  fire  just  as 
it  comes  to  a boil.  Flavoring  (lemon- 
juice,  pepper,  etc.)  can  be  added  to  the 
boiling  water. 

Buttercup  Jelly.  See  Jellies. 

Buttered  Eggs.  See  Eggs. 

Toast.  See  Bread. 

Buttermilk  Pudding,  Baked. 

See  Puddings. 

..  Biscuit.  See  Bread. 

Griddle  Cakes. 

Butter-scotch.  See  Candy. 


c 

Cabbage. — The  following  recipes  for  Cabbage,  Stuffed.  See  Vegetables. 


cooking  cabbage  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Cabbage  and  Bacon.  See  Vegetables. 
..  Cold  Slaw. 

..  Creamed. 

..  equal  to  Cauli- 

flower. 

French  method. 

German  method. 

Hot  Slaw. 

..  Red,  Stewed. 


CA 

In  making  cakes,  great  care  should 
be  taken  that  everything  which  is  used 
should  be  perfectly  dry,  as  dampness 
in  the  materials  is  very  likely  to  pro- 
duce heaviness  in  the  cake.  It  is 
always  best  to  have  each  ingredient 
properly  prepared  before  beginning 
to  mix  the  cake. 

Butter  should  be  mixed  with  the 
sugar,  or  with  the  yolks  of  eggs, 
adding  the  milk  and  flour  alternately 
in  small  quantities. 

Flour. — The  flour  for  cakes  should 
be  of  the  best  quality.  It  should  be 
weighed  after  it  is  sifted  and.  dried. 
If  too  much  flour  is  used  the  cake 
will  crack. 

Eggs. — Each  egg  should  always 
be  broken  into  a cup  before  it  is  put 
to  the  others,  as  this  will  prevent 
a bad  one  spoiling  the  rest.  The 
yolks  and  whites  should  be  separated, 
the  specks  removed,  and  then  all  the 
yolks  transferred  to  one  bowl  and  the 
whites  to  another.  The  yolks  may 
be  beaten  till  they  are  light  and  frothy, 
but  the  whites  must  be  whisked  till 


..  Omelet.  See  Eggs. 

Pickled.  See.  Pickles. 

..  and  Celery  Salad. 

See  Salads. 

..  Salad. 

..  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Cabinet  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 
Cafe  Frappd.  See  Beverages. 


KES 

they  are  one  solid  froth  and  no  liquor 
remains  at  the  bottom  of  the  bowl. 
The  eggs  should  be  put  in  a cool  place 
till  required  for  use.  When  the  whites 
only  are  to  be  used,  the  yolks,  if 
unbroken,  and  kept  covered,  will  keep 
good  for  three  or  four  days. 

Currants  should  be  washed,  then 
spread  upon  a dish  and  carefully 
looked  over,  so  that  any  little  pieces 
of  stone  or  stalk  may  be  removed. 
The  dish  should  then  be  placed  before 
the  fire,  and  the  currants  turned 
over  frequently  until  they  are  quite 
dry. 

Fruit  should  be  rolled  in  flour  and 
put  in  the  last  thing. 

Sugar. — Fine  granulated  sugar  is 
the  best  to  use  for  cakes.  Powdered 
sugar  is  apt  to  make  a dry  cake. 

Lemon. — Peel  should  be  cut  very 
thin,  as  the  white,  or  inner  side,  will 
impart  a bitter  flavor  to  the  cakes. 

Almonds  for  cakes  should  be  blanch- 
ed by  being  put  into  boiling  water, 
and  when  they  have  been  in  for  a few 
minutes  the  skin  should  be  taken 


43 


Almond  Cake 


CAKES 


Almond  Cake 


off  and  the  almonds  thrown  into  cold 
water  to  preserve  the  color.  If  they 
are  pounded,  a few  drops  of  water, 
rose-water,  or  white  of  egg  should 
be  added  in  every  two  or  three  minutes, 
to  prevent  them  oiling.  If  they  are 
not  pounded  they  should  be  cut  into 
thin  slices  or  divided  lengthwise. 

Milk. — Condensed  milk  can  be 
used  for  cakes  when  either  cream  or 
milk  is  not  at  hand ; but  when  it  is 
used  less  sugar  will  be  required. 

Yeast. — When  yeast  is  used  for 
cakes,  less  butter  and  eggs  are  re- 
quired. 

Cake  keeps  better  when  made  with- 
out yeast. 

One  cake  of  compressed  yeast  is 
equal  to  one  cupful  of  liquid  yeast. 
One  cupful  is  equal  to  two  gills,  or 
half  a pint. 

Baking-powder. — Nearly  all  plain 
cakes  will  be  made  lighter  by  the 
addition  of  a little  baking  - powder. 
Cream  of  tartar,  or  baking-powder, 
is  omitted  when  molasses  or  sour  milk 
is  used,  and  soda  alone  is  then  used 
for  the  raising  of  the  cake.  One  tea- 
spoonful of  cream  of  tartar  and  one- 
half  teaspoonful  of  soda  is  equivalent 
to  one  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder. 
When  used,  sift  with  the  flour. 

Moulds  for  cakes  should  be  greased 
with  lard,  as  butter  blackens,  and  it  is 
a good  plan  to  place  some  well-oiled 
paper  between  the  mould  and  the  cake. 

Baking. — Small  cakes  require  a 
quick  oven  when  they  are  first  put  in, 
to  make  them  rise,  but  the  heat  should 
not  be  increased  after  they  have  be- 
gun to  bake.  Large  cakes  should  be 
put  into  a moderate  oven,  in  order 
that  they  may  be  well  baked  in  the 
middle  before  they  are  overdone  on 
the  outside.  In  order  to  ascertain 
if  a cake  is  sufficiently  baked,  insert  a 
straw,  a skewer,  or  knitting-needle 
into  the  centre  of  it,  and  if  it  comes 
out  perfectly  clean  the  cake  is  suf- 
ficiently ready,  but  if  anything  is 
sticking  to  it  the  cake  must  be  put 
back  into  the  oven  at  once.  If  the 
oven  is  too  hot  the  cake  will  rise  in  a 
cone  at  the  centre.  Cake°  should  be 
gently  turned  out  of  the  mould  when 


ready,  placed  on  the  top  of  the  oven 
to  dry,  then  laid  on  their  sides  to  cool. 
They  should  be  kept  in  a cool  place, 
and  in  tin  canisters,  closely  covered. 

Dry  materials  are  mixed  in  one 
bowl,  liquids  in  another.  The  two  are 
to  be*  combined  just  before  putting 
into  the  oven. 

Icing. — Take  i lb.  of  powdered  or 
flour  sugar  (not  the  common  pul- 
verized) and  the  whites  of  four  eggs. 
Put  the  sugar  to  the  eggs  before 
you  beat  it  at  all;  then  beat  till  it 
is  stiff.  Spread  it  on  the  cake  with 
a wet  knife,  wetting  it  in  cold  water 
each  time  you  use  it.  Set  it  in  front 
of  the  stove  to  dry,  or  in  an  oven  with 
the  least  particle  of  heat.  The  cake 
must  be  nearly  cold.  You  can  flavor 
the  icing  with  rose,  orange,  or  lemon ; 
if  the  latter,  add  a very  small  portion 
of  grated  rind.  It  is  better  to  add 
sugar  to  eggs  before  beating  than 
afterwards. 

Boiled  Icing. — One  cupful  of  gran- 
ulated sugar,  two  table  - spoonfuls  of 
water.  Boil  together  till  it  threads 
from  the  spoon,  stirring  often.  Beat 
the  while  of  one  egg  stiff.  Put  it  into 
a deep  dish,  and,  when  the  sugar  is 
boiling,  turn  the  whole  on  the  egg, 
and  beat  rapidly  together  until  thick 
enough  to  spread  on  the  cake.  See 
also  Icing. 

Garnishing. — The  simplest  form  is 
to  brush  the  cake  with  the  white  of 
egg,  then  sprinkle  nuts,  chopped  fine, 
or  colored  sugar,  or  use  jam. 

Almond  Cake. — Cream  half  a cupful 
of  butter  and  a cupful  and  a half  of 
sugar ; add  half  a cupful  of  milk,  two 
cupfuls  of  flour,  the  whites  of  four  eggs, 
and  a teaspoonful  and  a half  of  bak- 
ing-powder. Bake  in  the  pans  used 
for  jelly  cake.  Make  an  icing  with 
the  whites  of  three  eggs  and  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  sugar.  Blanch  I 
lb.  of  almonds,  and  chop  t<alf  of  them 
almost  to  a powder.  Mix  with  a little 
of  the  icing,  spread  it  between  the 
layers,  then  cover  the  whole  cake 
with  the  remainder  of  the  icing,  ar- 
ranging halved  almonds  on  the  top 
and  sides. 

44 


Angel  Cake 


CAKES 


Black  Cake 


Angel  Cake  or  Angel-food. — Take 
the  whites  of  eleven  eggs,  a tumbler 
and  a half  of  sifted  granulated  sugar, 
a tumbler  of  flour,  three  times  sift- 
ed, a teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence, 
a teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar, 
sifted.  The  tumblers  should  contain 
two  gills  and  a quarter.  Beat  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  to  a stiff  froth, 
then  add  the  sugar  lightly,  then  the 
flour  gently,  and  lastly  the  essence 
of  vanilla.  Do  not  stop  beating  until 
you  are  ready  to  put  the  mixture  into 
the  tin,  which  should  be  one  of  those 
with  a tube  in  the  middle,  sometimes 
known  as  a “ Turk’s  head.”  The 
pan  should  not  be  greased.  Bake 
forty  minutes  in  a moderate  oven.  If 
still  soft  when  tried  with  a straw,  let  it 
bake  longer.  When  baked,  turn  the 
tin  upside  down  on  saucers  to  cool. 
Cut  with  a very  sharp  knife.  The 
same  recipe  may  be  used  for  sunshine- 
cake  by  adding  six  of  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs,  well  beaten,  after  beating  the 
whites  and  the  sugar  together. 

Another  way  : — Beat  the  whites  of 
eleven  eggs  to  a stiff  froth ; have 
ready  some  flour,  sifted  seven  times, 
after  which  measure  a rounded  cup- 
ful ; add  one  teaspoonful  of  fresh 
cream  of  tartar  and  sift  twice.  Sift 
one  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  once, 
then  add  it  to  the  flour  and  sift  twice. 
With  a fork  lightly  stir  in  the  flour 
and  sugar,  which  should  be  sifted  in 
gradually.  Bake  in  an  ungreased 
pan  with  a stem  forty  - five  minutes. 
It  is  best  to  get  a new  pan  and  not 
use  it  for  anything  but  the  angel- 
food. 

Apple  Bread.  — To  one  quart  of 
meal  put  one  pint  of  ripe,  chopped 
apples,  one  egg,  a small  piece  of  but- 
ter, a little  salt,  and  fresh  water 
enough  to  form  a stiff  dough.  The 
apples  should,  of  course,  be  peeled 
and  minced  very  fine.  Some  persons 
like  a little  sugar  on  the  dough,  but  it 
is  generally  preferred  without.  This 
is  a favorite  with  children. 

Apple  Bread,  Baltimore.  — Pre- 
pare a dough  exactly  as  if  for  rusks. 


When  it  is  very  light,  roll  out  a cake 
about  half  an  inch  thick.  Spread 
stewed  apples  over  it,  and  over  that 
place  another  cake  of  dough  like  the 
first.  Put  it  in  a pan  to  lighten  for 
a short  time.  Bake  it.  Have  some 
thin  slices  of  apples  stewed  very  ten- 
der, and  when  the  bread  is  baked 
lay  these  slices  of  apples  all  over  the 
top,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  some  small 
bits  of  butter,  and  any  spice  you  like. 
Put  it  back  in  the  oven  long  enough 
for  the  sugar  to  form  a coating  on 
the  top.  When  cold,  slice  it  nicely 
for  tea. 

Apple  Cake. — One  and  a half  pints 
of  sour  dried  apples,  soaked  over- 
night. In  the  morning  pour  off  any 
water  ; chop  the  apples,  and  stew  them 
twenty  minutes  with  one  and  a half 
pints  of  molasses  and  one  table-spoon- 
ful each  of  cinnamon,  mace,  and  cloves. 
Cream  Y2  lb.  of  butter,  and  add  to  the 
apples  and  molasses  when  they  be- 
come cold.  Add  one  beaten  egg,  a 
level  teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved 
in  a table-spoonful  of  boiling  water, 
14  ozs.  of  sifted  flour,  and  a half- 
pint of  seeded  raisins,  cut  in  half. 
Mix  thoroughly  and  bake  in  a mod- 
erate oven. 

Bannock.  • — Dry  before  the  fire  1 
lb.  of  fine  flour,  melt  Y2  lb-  of  butter, 
mix  with  the  flour  2 ozs.  of  almonds, 
finely  chopped,  2 ozs.  of  orange- 
peel,  2 ozs.  of  sugared  caraways,  and 
2 ozs.  of  pounded  or  castor  sugar. 
Pour  on  these  ingredients  the  melted 
butter,  knead  together  thoroughly 
well,  roll  into  a square  or  oblong 
shape,  and  bake  in  a slow  oven  for 
one  hour. 

Black  Cake.— Cream  3 lbs.  of  brown 
sugar  and  3 lbs.  of  butter  together ; 
sift  in  3 lbs.  of  flour;  beat  twenty- 
eight  eggs  separately,  and  add,  with 
5 lbs.  of  seeded  raisins,  4 lbs.  of  dried 
currants,  1 lb.  of  sliced  citron,  I oz. 
each  of  cinnamon  and  nutmeg,  V 2 
oz.  each  of  mace,  cloves,  and  all- 
spice, with  a glass  of  blackberry 
wine.  Mix  and  beat  well.  Turn 

45 


Cheese  Cakes 


CAKES  Cheese  Cakes  (Mrs.  Leed’s) 


into  a very  large  cake-mould  and 
bake  for  six  hours.  This  cake  will 
keep  for  years. 

Cheese  Cakes. — The  best  are  said 
to  be  those  made  in  the  farm-houses 
in  the  midland  counties  of  England, 
as  well  as  Stilton  and  Tuxford,  in 
Nottinghamshire.  The  foundation  of 
all  of  them  is  the  rich  cream  curd,  fla- 
vored with  lemon  or  almonds ; some- 
times nutmeg  and  cinnamon  and 
eggs,  or,  omitting  eggs,  a cup  of 
cream  or  milk.  All  are  baked  in 
tartlet  or  patty  pans,  lined  with  a rich 
paste.  Soyer,  who  is  very  excellent 
authority  in  all  culinary  arts,  speaks 
of  some  delicious  little  cakes,  great- 
ly resembling  cheese  cakes,  called 
“ Richmond  Maids  of  Honor,”  which 
derived  their  quaint  name  from  the 
maids  of  honor  of  Queen  Elizabeth’s 
court.  They  are,  in  reality,  only  a 
variety  of  cheese  cake,  made  some- 
what richer,  and  with  the  addition 
of  “one  very  floury  baked  potato” 
instead  of  biscuit-powder,  and  one 
glass  of  brandy.  They  are  baked 
in  patty-pans,  lined  with  puff  paste, 
and  both  almonds  and  lemons  are  put 
with  the  curds,  butter,  and  eggs  of 
the  filling. 

Another  way  : — One  Neufch&tel  or 
cream-cheese ; one  teacupful  of  sugar; 
one  lemon,  grate  the  rind  and  use 
half  of  the  juice ; half-teacupful  of 
currants ; half  - teacupful  of  rolled 
cracker-crumbs  (the  finer  and  more 
delicate  the  cracker  the  better) ; four 
eggs,  well  beaten ; one  teaspoonful  of 
melted  butter ; half-teacupful  of  cream 
or  rich  milk;  half  a nutmeg;  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Mix  the  cracker- 
crumbs  dry  with  the  cheese,  first  re- 
moving the  wrapper  and  taking  off 
the  thin  film,  or  skin  on  the  outside, 
of  the  cheese ; crumble  the  crumbs 
and  cheese  well  together ; add  the 
eggs,  which  have  been  first  well 
beaten  up  with  the  sugar.  Then  the 
butter  and  cream  may  be  added.  If 
the  cream  is  very  nice,  the  butter  may 
be  omitted.  Lastly  add  the  lemon, 
currants,  and  nutmeg.  The  currants 
must  have  been  washed,  dried,  and 


then  well  dusted  with  cracker  dust  or 
flour.  Mix  well,  and  put  directly  in 
well  - buttered  patty -pans  that  have 
been  lined  with  puff  paste.  Bake  fif- 
teen or  twenty  minutes  in  a quick 
oven.  They  will  puff  up,  but  must 
not  be  too  brown.  For  variety,  omit 
the  currants  and  the  lemon,  and  fla- 
vor instead  with  sweet  almonds  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  bitter 
almonds.  In  putting  in  almonds, 
blanch  them  first,  then  pound  them 
in  a mortar  with  two  or  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  rose  - water,  or,  if  that  is 
not  procurable,  with  unequal  quantity 
of  sweet  milk.  Beat  all  up  together 
until  it  is  a smooth  paste.  Half  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds  and  one  tea- 
spoonful bitter  almonds  flavoring  are 
the  right  proportions  for  these  cheese- 
cakes. Bake  in  the  smallest  patty- 
pans you  can  get. 

Cheese  Cakes  with  Cheese.  — It 

may  be  difficult  to  secure  a sufficient 
quantity  of  new  milk  to  turn  into  the 
requisite  curd,  which  is  in  reality  the 
foundation  of  all  these  cheese  cakes 
and  that  which  imparts  to  them  their 
peculiar  richness,  and  there  may  be 
others  who  cannot  succeed  weil  in 
getting  the  curd  of  the  proper  con- 
sistence. Use  Neufchatel  cheese  in- 
stead of  curds.  It  is  very  rich,  and 
imparts  precisely  the  same  flavor  with- 
out any  troublesome  process,  so  that 
cheese  cakes  can  be  made  in  a very 
few  moments  by  using  it.  The  Neuf- 
chatel cheeses  come  done  up  in  silver 
paper,  and  are  to  be  had  in  market 
or  of  the  principal  grocers  for  five  or 
ten  cents  apiece.  One  will  suffice  for 
about  a dozen  little  cheese  - cakes  or 
tartlets. 

Cheese  Cakes  (Mrs.  Leed’s). — Take 
three  quarts  of  milk  and  rennet,  pret- 
ty cold,  and  when  it  is  time  drain  it 
from  your  whey  in  a strainer ; then 
beat  the  curd  in  a stone  mortar  with 
Y\  lb.  of  butter,  Yz  lb.  of  almonds ; 
beat  with  rose-water  till  they  are  like 
curd ; mingle  with  them  the  yolks  of 
ten  eggs,  one  pint  of  currants,  one 
grated  nutmeg,  and  Y\  lb.  of  sugar. 


Cheese  Cakes,  Lemon 


CAKES 


Chocolate  Layer  Cake 


When  your  paste  is  ready  and  going 
to  the  oven,  then  mingle  them  to- 
gether. Your  paste  must  be  made 
of  milk  and  butter,  as  stiff  as  for 
other  paste.  They  must  be  pricked. 

Another  way : — Take  three  eggs 
and  beat  very  well,  and  as  you  beat 
them  put  as  much  fine  flour  as  will 
make  them  stiff ; then  put  in  three  or 
four  eggs  more,  and  beat  them  all 
together ; then  take  one  quart  of 
cream  and  put  into  it  % lb.  of  sweet 
butter,  and  set  it  over  the  fire,  and 
when  it  begins  to  boil  put  it  to  your 
eggs  and  flour.  Stir  it  very  well,  and 
let  it  boil  till  it  be  thick ; then  season 
it  with  salt,  cinnamon,  sugar,  and 
currants,  and  bake  it  in  patty-pans. 

Cheese  Cakes,  Lemon  (that  will  keep 
for  several  weeks). — To  *4  lb.  of  butter 
put  i lb.  of  white  sugar,  six  eggs 
(leaving  out  two  whites),  the  rinds  of 
three  lemons,  grated,  and  the  juice  of 
three ; put  them  all  into  a pan  and 
let  them  simmer  over  the  fire  until  the 
sugar  is  dissolved  and  it  begins  to 
thicken  like  honey.  When  cold,  put 
it  into  sweetmeat-pots  for  use.  When 
made  into  cheese  cakes  — that  is, 
warmed  and  put  into  pastry  freshly 
made — add  grated  sweet  biscuits. 

Chocolate  Cake.  — Six  eggs,  half- 
cupful of  butter,  three  cupfuls  of 
sugar,  one  cupful  of  milk,  four  cup- 
fuls of  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder,  4 ozs.  of  chocolate, 
melted.  Rub  the  butter  and  sugar 
together,  add  to  them  the  beaten 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  the  milk  and  melted 
chocolate,  and  stir  well  ; add  the  sifted 
flour  into  which  the  baking-powder 
has  been  mixed,  and  stir  again 
thoroughly;  add,  last  of  all,  the 
beaten  whites  of  the  eggs.  Bake  in 
a ring -mould  in  a moderate  oven 
and  serve  hot  with  a chocolate  sauce 
made  as  follows  : Half-cupful  of  sugar, 
half -cupful  of  water,  4 ozs.  of  good 
chocolate,  melted,  half-teaspoonful  of 
vanilla,  half -cupful  of  cream.  Let 
the  sugar  and  water  boil  together 
five  minutes,  stir  in  slowly  the  melted 
chocolate,  add  the  vanilla  and  the 


cream,  and  let  the  whole  cook  a 
minute  or  two,  then  stand  in  a bowl 
surrounded  with  boiling  water  until 
ready  to  serve.  Beat  up  half  a pint 
of  thick  cream,  and  put  it  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  ring  of  cake,  over  which  the 
sauce  has  been  poured. 

Another  way  : — A half-cupful  of  but- 
ter, one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  sugar, 
one  cupful  of  milk,  three  cupfuls  of 
sifted  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing-powder, four  eggs,  4 ozs.  of  melted 
chocolate.  Beat  the  butter  and  sugar 
to  a cream,  add  the  beaten  yolks,  then 
add  slowly  the  milk  and  three  - quar- 
ters of  the  well-sifted  flour.  Beat  a 
long  time,  until  very  smooth  and  light, 
then  add  the  melted  chocolate  and  the 
rest  of  the  flour  in  which  the  baking- 
powder  has  been  mixed  ; beat  well, 
and  lastly  add  the  well-beaten  whites 
of  the  eggs.  Bake  in  a moderate 
oven.  Turn  out  bottom  side  up, 
and  put  the  icing  on  when  hot. 

Chocolate  Eclairs. — Beat  four  eggs 
and  add  their  weight  in  sugar.  Take 
half  the  weight  of  the  eggs  in  flour, 
to  which  add  a small  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder;  sift  this  three  or  four 
times,  then  mix  in  the  eggs.  Bake  in 
tin  forms  and  cover  with  a chocolate 
icing  made  of  the  whites  of  two  eggs 
(not  beaten)  stirred  into  two  small  cup- 
fuls of  sugar.  Dissolve  the  chocolate 
and  one-half  cupful  of  sugar  in  hot 
water  and  add  the  eggs  - and  - sugar 
mixture. 

Chocolate  Filling.  — Stir  half  a 
cake  of  sweet  chocolate,  grated,  into 
half  a cup  of  rich  milk,  and  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  corn-starch.  When 
this  last  is  well  dissolved,  put  the 
ingredients  over  the  fire  and  cook, 
stirring  all  the  time  until  thick.  It 
must  not  boil  longer  than  two  minutes, 
and  great  care  should  be  taken  that 
the  chocolate  does  not  scorch.  Re- 
move from  the  fire,  beat  in  a teaspoon- 
ful of  vanilla,  and  when  cool  spread 
the  filling  between  layers  of  cake. 

Chocolate  Layer  Cake. — Grate  % 
lb.  of  chocolate,  and  add  half  a 


47 


Cinnamon  Cakes 


CAKES 


Coffee  Cake 


teaspoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon 
and  the  same  amount  of  baking- 
powder,  and  a heaping  table-spoon- 
ful of  sifted  flour.  Beat  lightly  the 
yolks  of  six  eggs,  and  stir  them  into 
one  cupful  of  sugar  and  a teaspoonful 
of  vanilla  extract.  When  thoroughly 
mixed  add  them  to  the  drj^  ingredi- 
ents. Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
very  dry  and  light,  and  stir  in  as 
lightly  as  possible.  Pour  into  but- 
tered biscuit  - tins  and  bake  about 
thirty  minutes  in  a moderate  oven. 

Cinnamon  Cakes.  — Whites  and 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  which  are  to  be 
beaten  up  with  % lb.  of  castor  sugar 
for  half  an  hour ; add  2 ozs.  of  pounded 
almonds,  Y\  oz.  of  powdered  cinnamon, 
and  twelve  pounded  cloves.  Stir  into 
this  mixture,  very  gradually,  Y/z  lb.  of 
fine  flour.  Roll  out  into  long  strips 
and  divide  into  cakes,  and  bake  in  but- 
tered tins. 

Citron  Cake. — Mix  the  well-beaten 
yolks  of  six  eggs  with  Y*  lb.  of  sugar 
and  10  ozs.  of  fine  flour;  add  Yz  lb.  of 
fresh  butter,  beaten  to  a cream ; 4 ozs. 
of  candied  citron,  chopped  small ; a 
wineglassful  of  brandy  and  the 
whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  to  a firm 
froth.  Mix  thoroughly,  pour  the  mixt- 
ure into  a well-buttered  mould,  and 
bake  it  in  a good  oven.  Time  to  bake, 
about  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Another  way  : — One  cupful  of  but- 
ter stirred  to  a cream  with  two  cupfuls 
of  sugar;  add  three  cupfuls  of  flour, 
with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-pow- 
der sifted  with  it,  one  cupful  of  milk, 
the  grated  rind  of  half  a lemon,  and 
three  eggs,  the  whites  and  yolks 
beaten  separately.  Add  Y\  lb.  of  cit- 
ron. cut  in  exceedingly  thin  strips  and 
well  covered  with  flour.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven.  The  cake  may  be 
iced  or  not,  according  to  taste. 

Cocoanut  Cake. — Break  eight  eggs, 
of  which  set  aside  four  whites.  Beat 
separately  the  remaining  four  whites 
and  eight  yolks  till  very  light.  One 
pound  and  a quarter  of  flour,  sifted ; 
I lb.  of  sugar,  pulverized , Yz  lb.  of 


butter,  creamed ; one  cupful  of  sour 
cream  or  buttermilk,  and  a teaspoon- 
ful of  bicarbonate  of  soda — the  two 
latter  ingredients  to  be  added  the  last 
thing,  just  before  you  are  ready  to 
bake.  Bake  in  large,  flat,  tin  plates, 
so  as  to  form  many  thin  cakes.  Grate 
two  fresh,  sweet  cocoanuts,  add  to 
them  1 lb.  of  sifted  white  sugar,  with 
the  lightly  beaten  whites  of  the  four 
eggs  laid  aside  for  the  purpose,  and 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  corn-starch.  Stir 
all  well  together,  including  the  cocoa- 
nut  milk  drained  from  both  nuts. 
When  the  cakes  are  quite  cold,  place 
one  in  the  bottom  of  a large  china 
plate,  cover  it  well  with  the  prepared 
cocoanut,  and  continue  thus  to  heap 
up  cake  and  cocoanut  in  alternate 
layers  until  all  of  each  material  is 
consumed.  If  desired,  cover  the  whole 
with  icing.  This  quantity  makes  a 
very  large  cake.  If  only  a small  one 
is  needed,  one  cocoanut  will  answer, 
with  half  of  everything  else. 

Cocoanut  Cakes. — Scarcely  Yz  lb. 
of  loaf  sugar  to  a large  cocoanut, 
grated ; put  into  a preserving-pan  till 
the  sugar  melts.  Form  into  cakes; 
put  on  white  paper.  They  should 
be  well  baked  in  a very  cool  oven,  and 
when  cooked  ought  to  be  very  pure 
white. 

Cocoanut  Snow-balls. — Make  an 
angel-food  cake  as  follows  : Beat  to- 
gether till  stiff  whites  of  eleven  eggs 
with  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  sifted 
granulated  sugar  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  cream  of  tartar,  then  one  cupful  of 
flour  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 
Bake  in  a moderate  oven  forty  min- 
utes. When  cold,  cut  off  all  the  brown 
outside  of  the  cake,  and  with  a fork 
take  out  pieces  as  large  as  an  English 
walnut ; roll  these  in  soft  frosting  and 
then  in  grated  cocoanut.  These  are 
especially  nice  with  a plain,  white  ice- 
cream. 

Coffee  Cake. — Cream  one  cupful  of 
sugar  with  two-thirds  of  a cupful  of 
butter ; add  one  cupful  of  strong  coffee, 
four  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls 


Composition  Cake 


CAKES 


Custard  Rolls 


of  baking  - powder,  one  and  a half 
teaspoonfuls  of  powdered  cloves,  one 
teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  J4  lb.  of 
raisins,  J4  lb.  of  currants. 

Composition  Cake  (an  old-fashion- 
ed recipe). — Three-quarters  of  a pound 
of  butter,  I % lbs*  of  sugar,  i%  lbs. 
of  flour,  four  eggs,  one  pint  of  sweet 
milk,  a level  teaspoonful  of  saleratus, 
2 lbs.  of  raisins,  lb.  of  citron,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  one 
large  table-spoonful  of  cloves,  one  of 
mace  mixed  in  a wineglassful  of  wine 
or  brandy,  one  nutmeg. 

Cookies.  — Three  cupfuls  of  flour, 
one  cupful  of  sugar,  a little  heaped, 
half  a cupful  of  butter,  one-third  of  a 
cupful  of  rich  milk  or  cream,  two 
eggs,  half  a teaspoonful  of  soda,  with 
ginger,  eardamom,  or  other  spice  to 
your  taste.  Work  the  butter  until 
creamed,  and  beat  the  sugar  smoothly 
into  it.  Then  add  the  soda,  dissolved 
in  the  milk.  Let  the  whites  be  beaten 
to  a stiff  froth  and  added  the  last 
thing  before  the  flour.  Make  into  a 
dough  as  soft  as  can  be  rolled. 

Another  way  : — Two  cupfuls  of 
sugar,  one  cupful  of  butter,  three 
eggs,  one  (level)  teaspoonful  of  sale- 
ratus dissolved  in  a spoonful  of  water. 
Flavor  with  nutmeg.  Stir  in  sifted 
flour  until  the  dough  can  be  rolled 
with  a rolling-pin  — the  softer  the 
dough  is  the  better — then  roll,  stamp 
out  in  small  cakes,  sprinkle  sugar 
lightly  over  them  while  in  the  pans. 
Bake  quickly. 

Cookies  for  Children. — Sift  into  a 
bowl  five  large  teacupfuls  of  flour, 
one  teacupful  of  butter,  two  cupfuls 
of  white  sugar,  a handful  of  caraway- 
seed.  Add  two  well  - beaten  eggs  — 
one  will  answer  in  scarce  seasons. 
Add,  at  the  last,  a small  teaspoonful 
of  soda  dissolved  in  a little  lukewarm 
water.  Knead  well.  Roll  out  in 
sheets.  Cut  into  leaves,  hearts,  or 
simple  circles,  and  put  into  greased 
baking-tins.  To  be  done  in  about 
fifteen  minutes.  To  please  the  chil- 
dren, just  before  the  cakes  are  put  to 
4 


bake  brush  them  over  with  a feather 
dipped  in  egg,  and  sprinkle  quickly 
over  coarse-grained  sugar  with  which 
a little  powdered  cinnamon  has  been 
mixed. 

Corn-starch  Cake. — One  cupful  of 
butter  and  two  cupfuls  of  powdered 
sugar  beaten  to  a cream,  one  cupful 
of  corn-starch  stirred  into  the  butter 
and  sugar,  one  cupful  of  milk,  two 
cupfuls  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of 
baking  - powder,  whites  of  six  eggs 
added  the  last  thing.  Flavor  with 
rose-water. 

Crullers. — One  pint  of  sweet  milk, 
one  pint  of  sugar,  % lb.  of  butter, 
three  or  four  eggs  well  beaten  sepa- 
rately, two  table-spoonfuls  of  cream 
of  tartar,  enough  flour  to  make  a 
very  soft  dough,  rose-water  and 
grated  nutmeg  to  taste.  Roll  out 
thin ; make  the  cakes  small  and 
round,  with  a hole  in  the  centre. 
Fry  in  boiling  lard,  and  after  draining 
them  well  roll  them  in  powdered 
sugar  flavored  with  cinnamon. 

Another  way  : — One  cupful  of  sugar, 
a piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg 
rubbed  well  into  the  flour,  two  eggs 
beaten  into  the  sugar  and  butter,  one 
cupful  of  milk,  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder  mixed  into  a cupful 
of  flour.  Add  a little  salt,  unless 
the  butter  is  very  salt.  Flavor  with 
one  and  a half  teaspoonfuls  of  lemon 
extract.  Mix  very  soft. 

Cup  Cake. — Whites  of  eight  eggs 
beaten  stiff,  three  half-pint  cupfuls  of 
flour,  two  half-pint  cupfuls  of  white 
sugar,  one  half-pint  cupful  of  butter, 
one  half-pint  cupful  of  cream,  one 
teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  sifted 
into  the  flour;  cream  the  sugar  and 
better,  then  add  alternately  flour 
and  eggs  until  all  are  in,  reserving 
the  cream  to  pour  in  last ; season  with 
essence  of  bitter  almonds  or  rose- 
water. Bake  in  a rather  quick  oven. 

Custard  Rolls.  — Get  the  long- 
pointed  finger-rolls  sold  at  the  French 
bakeries.  Cut  down  one  side  and  pull 

49 


Cymbals 


CAKES 


Egg-yolk  Rings 


out  as  much  of  the  crumb  as  possi- 
ble. Have  a pint  of  boiled  custard 
made  in  the  ordinary  way,  but  with 
the  addition  of  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
flour,  which  will  insure  its  being 
sufficiently  thick.  When  this  is  quite 
cold,  and  just  before  serving,  fill  the 
rolls  with  it.  The  addition  to  the 
custard  of  four  large  bananas,  mashed 
up  with  a silver  fork,  is  a pleasing 
variation.  Another  way  is  to  fill 
the  rolls  with  whipped  cream. 

Cymbals. — Half  a pound  of  sugar, 
% lb.  of  butter,  two  eggs,  one  nutmeg, 
one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  half  a tea- 
cupful of  sour  milk.  Cream  the  but- 
ter, and  add  the  sugar  to  it.  Then 
add  the  eggs,  beaten  separately  and 
very  light ; then  grate  in  the  nut- 
meg, and  pour  in  the  soda  dissolved 
in  the  milk.  Then  add  enough 
flour  to  make  a dough  as  soft  as  can 
be  handled — one  quart  will  probably 
suffice.  Roll  out  upon  a board,  and 
cut  into  small  cakes ; sprinkle  sugar 
over  them  and  bake  quickly. 

Dainty  Cake. — Cream  together  two 
cupfuls  of  sugar  and  a cupful  and  a 
half  of  butter,  and  add  one  cupful  of 
milk,  four  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls of  baking-powder,  and  the 
whites  of  eight  eggs.  Either  white 
icing  or  chocolate  icing  can  be  used. 

Delicate  Cake. — One  cupful  of  but- 
ter, two  and  a half  cupfuls  of  sugar, 
one  cupful  of  sweet  milk,  four  cupfuls 
of  flour,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  lastly  six  eggs  broken  in, 
one  by  one.  Beat  the  dough  thor- 
oughly after  each,  egg  is  broken  in. 
This  batter  is  baked  in  loaves,  small 
cakes,  and  layer ; the  latter  is  put  to- 
gether with  chocolate,  cocoanut,  and 
various  kinds  of  frosting.  • 

Damson  Short  Cake. — Roll  Yz  lb. 

of  puff  paste  to  a thin  sheet,  and  trim 
with  a pastry  wheel  into  two  circular 
crusts.  Shave  Y\  lb.  of  sweet  al- 
monds into  fine  shreds,  and  mix 
with  % lb.  of  powdered  sugar  and 
the  unwhipped  white  of  an  egg  to 


form  a paste.  Slip  the  circles  of 
puff  paste  into  baking-sheets,  and 
spread  the  surface  of  the  upper  crust 
with  a coating  of  the  almond  paste 
the  thickness  of  a silver  dollar.  If 
the  almond  paste  be  a trifle  stiff,  rub 
in  a spoonful  or  two  of  extra  white  of 
egg.  Heat  a quick  oven  with  more 
heat  underneath  than  on  top,  and  bake 
the  crusts  until  the  puff  paste  be- 
comes crisp  and  the  almond  paste 
has  crusted  a delicate  even  fawn. 
When  the  crusts  become  cool,  spread 
the  surface  of  the  under-crust  with  a 
deep  layer  of  tart  damson  jam,  and 
place  the  iced  upper-crust  on  the  jam. 
Serve  the  short  cake  with  or  without  a 
bowl  of  whipped  cream. 

Doughnuts.  — Heat  one  quart  of 
new  milk,  but  do  not  let  it  boil;  add 
two  teacupfuls  of  lard,  and  three 
teacupfuls  of  sugar,  either  white  or  a 
light  brown;  when  well  melted,  stir 
in  one  cupful  of  yeast  and  enough 
flour  to  form  a thick  sponge.  Beat 
long  and  well,  and  when  the  mass 
seems  light  and  full  of  bubbles,  stir 
into  it  the  well-beaten  yolk  and  white 
of  one  egg.  When  light,  work  well, 
and  let  it  rise  again;  then  roll  and 
cut  into  shape ; boil  in  hot  lard  until 
brown.  Dust  over  with  powdered  cin- 
namon and  sugar. 

Easter  Cake.  — Cream  one  cupful 
of  butter  and  three  of  sugar  together. 
Sift  in  four  cupfuls  of  flour  and  two 
of  corn-starch,  with  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  baking-powder.  Add  one  cupful 
of  sweet  milk,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
extract  of  lemon,  and  the  beaten 
whites  of  fifteen  eggs.  Pour  in  a 
large  cake-mould  and  bake  in  a mod- 
erate oven.  When  cool,  take  a long, 
sharp  knife  and  cut  through  the 
middle.  Have  icing  prepared  in 
which  is  mixed  I lb.  each  of  chopped 
figs  and  almonds ; spread  between 
the  cake,  over  the  sides,  and  the 
top. 

Egg-yolk  Rings. — Beat  the  yolks 
of  sixteen  eggs  for  half  an  hour ; while 
still  beating,  add  6 ozs.  of  sugar,  and 


Filbert  Cakes 


CAKES 


Fruit  Cake,  Fine 


when  this  is  thoroughly  mixed  in  add 
one  wineglassful  of  sherry,  one  half 
cupful  of  milk,  half  a teaspoonful  of 
powdered  cinnamon,  the  rind  of  half  a 
lemon,  and  4 ozs.  of  best  butter.  Beat 
all  the  time.  Now  stir  in  enough 
flour,  a little  at  a time,  to  make  a soft 
dough.  Knead  this  for  fifteen  min- 
utes and  shape  into  rings  about  two 
inches  across  and  half  an  inch  thick. 
Bake  in  a slow  oven.  While  still  hot, 
cover  with  the  following  icing  : Put 
1 lb.  of  sugar  and  one  cupful  of  water 
in  a suitable  vessel,  and  boil  until  it 
feathers.  Beat  the  whites  of  five  eggs 
to  a stiff  froth,  and  add  the  syrup,  a 
little  at  a time,  beating  constantly. 
Now  add  4 ozs.  of  almonds,  which 
have  been  previously  blanched  and 
pounded  into  a paste  with  a little  rose- 
water to  prevent  them  from  . getting 
oily.  Continue  to  beat  the  icing  until 
nearly  cold,  and  then  cover  the  rings 
with  it.  When  this  is  done,  set  the 
rings  in  a cool  place  to  dry. 

Filbert  Cakes.* — Blanch  4 ozs.  of 
shelled  almonds  and  beat  them  to  a 
paste,  adding  a few  drops  of  orange- 
flower  water  from  time  to  time  to  pre- 
vent them  from  getting  oily.  Blanch 
4 ozs.  of  shelled  filberts,  toast  them, 
and  pound  to  a powder.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  twelve  eggs  for  a half-hour, 
and  when  very  light,  add  the  almonds, 
the  filberts,  and  Y2  lb.  of  stale  sponge 
cake,  which  has  also  previously  been 
powdered.  Melt  Y2  lb.  of  butter  and 
add  to  this  mixture.  Stir  thoroughly 
to  mix  the  whole  well.  From  1 Y2  lbs. 
of  sugar  make  a heavy  syrup  by  add- 
ing about  a cupful  of  water  and  boil- 
ing it  till  of  the  proper  thickness. 
Add  this  to  the  mixture  already  made, 
stirring  constantly  and  well.  Place 
over  the  fire  a few  minutes  when  it  is 
completely  mixed,  until  a thick  paste 
is  formed.  Drop  this  a teaspoonful 
at  a time  on  floured  tins  and  bake  in 
a hot  oven. 

Fruit  Cake. — Cream  together  Y2  lb. 
each  of  powdered  sugar  and  butter, 
and  beat  into  it  the  whipped  yolks 
of  six  eggs.  Now  stir  in  lb.  of 


sifted  flour,  a half  table-spoonful  of 
powdered  cinnamon,  a teaspoonful  of 
grated  nutmeg,  and  a half-teaspoon- 
ful  of  ground  cloves.  Add  the  stif- 
fened whites  of  six  eggs,  and  a small 
wineglassful  of  brandy.  Have  ready 
Y2  lb.  of  currants,  Y2  lb.  of  seeded  and 
halved  raisins,  and  Y\  lb-  of  citron 
cut  into  bits.  Mix  the  fruit,  dredge 
with  Y2-  lb.  of  flour,  and  beat  into  the 
cake  batter.  Bake  in  a deep  tin  lined 
with  buttered  paper. 

Another  way  : — One  pound  of  pow- 
dered sugar  and  14  ozs.  of  butter  are 
first  creamed  as  smoothly  as  possible, 
warming  them  a little  at  first  if  the 
weather  is  very  cold.  Twelve  eggs  are 
then  beaten  to  the  extreme  of  lightness, 
and  worked  into  the  butter  and  sugar 
alternately  with  I lb.  of  flour,  stirring 
very  hard.  When  well  mixed,  add  one 
table  - spoonful  of  cinnamon,  two  of 
mace,  two  of  cloves,  sifting  them  all, 
and  one  grated  nutmeg,  with  a gill  of 
cream  and  half  a pint  of  brandy. 
Then  3 lbs.  of  raisins,  seeded  and 
halved,  2 lbs.  of  sultanas,  picked, 
washed,  and  dried ; 1 lb.  of  currants, 
ditto,  and  1 lb.  of  citron  cut  into  strips 
— all  the  fruits  being  well  dredged 
with  flour.  Mix  them  in  by  degrees 
all  through  the  mass,  keeping  out  one- 
quarter  of  the  citron  to  strew  on  the 
top,  and  stir  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes 
as  hard  as  possible.  A table-spoon- 
ful of  orange-flower  water  added  at 
the  last  gives  a delicate,  perfumed 
flavor. 

Bake  in  pans  lined  with  buttered 
paper,  nearly  filling  them;  smooth 
with  a wet  knife-blade,  and  bake  in 
a moderate  oven  about  three  hours. 
Leave  in  the  pan  until  cold,  then  rub 
it  with  flour,  wipe  with  a cloth,  and  ice 
with  white-of-egg  icing,  finishing  with 
chocolate  or  orange  icing. 

Fruit  Cake,  Fine.  — Twenty -four 
eggs,  2 lbs.  of  butter,  2 lbs.  of  brown 
sugar,  2 lbs.  of  flour,  browned,  four 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  4 lbs. 
of  stoned  raisins,  4 lbs.  of  currants, 
2 lbs.  of  citron,  three  nutmegs,  one 
teaspoonful  of  mace  or  half  a teaspoon- 
ful of  allspice,  half  a teaspoonful  of 


Fruit  Cake,  Leavened 


CAKES 


Honey  Cake 


cloves.  Mix  the  batter  as  in  making 
pound  cake ; then  stir  in  all  the  fruits, 
excepting  the  raisins  and  citron;  re- 
serve these,  after  flouring  them  well, 
until  you  are  filling  the  mould;  put 
in  a two-inch  layer  of  the  dough,  then 
strew  over  a layer  of  raisins  and  citron ; 
repeat  this  until  the  mould  is  two- 
thirds  full ; let  the  heat  be  gradually 
applied  to  it. 

FruitCake,  Leavened. — One  pound 
and  a half  of  flour,  one  gill  of  yeast, 
six  eggs,  I lb.  of  butter,  I % lbs.  of 
brown  sugar,  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
mace  and  nutmeg  mixed,  I lb.  of 
raisins  or  currants,  half  a pint  of 
cream.  Let  half  the  materials  be  set 
to  rise  with  the  quantity  of  yeast 
named.  Give  it  ample  time  to  rise, 
and  when  well  raised  put  in  the  second 
half  of  the  materials,  and  give  it 
another  good  rise.  It  will  require  a 
part  of  two  days  to  complete  the  whole 
process,  but  rewards  by  being  a cake 
of  peculiarly  nice  flavor. 

Gems.  See  Bread. 

Ginger-snaps. — One  cupful  and  a 
half  of  molasses,  two-thirds  of  a cupful 
of  butter  or  lard,  one  teaspoonful  of 
soda,  one-half  a cupful  of  water,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  ginger.  Mix  soft, 
and  roll  very  thin ; bake  in  a quick 
oven.  Put  in  the  pan  so  they  will 
not  touch  each  other. 

Gingerbread.  — One  cup  of  brown 
sugar,  one  cup  of  butter,  one  cup  of 
molasses,  three  eggs,  I cupful  of  sour 
milk,  four  teaspoonfuls  of  ginger,  one 
teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  half  - tea- 
spoonful of  cloves,  three  cupfuls  of 
flour.  The  spices  are  measured  after 
being  ground.  Be  sure  that  the 
molasses  is  not  syrup,  but  of  the 
plainer  sort.  Sift  the  flour  twice,  beat 
the  eggs  separately  and  very  light, 
cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together, 
and  add  the  spice  and  soda  last,  after 
they  are  well  mixed  with  the  heated 
molasses.  Bake  carefully,  because 
gingerbread  is  the  easiest  to  burn  of 
all  cakes.  Bake  either  in  a mould 


or  shallow  pan,  as  fancy  may  di- 
rect. 

Gold  Cake. — Four  cupfuls  of  sugar, 
one  cupful  of  milk,  one  and  a half 
cupfuls  of  butter,  yolks  of  twelve 
eggs,  two  lemons,  six  cupfuls  of  flour, 
three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 
Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together 
till  very  light;  add  the  milk,  the 
eggs  — very  thoroughly  beaten  — the 
lemons,  and,  lastly,  the  flour,  twice 
sifted.  One-half  the  quantity  given 
in  this  recipe  would  probably  be  ample 
for  ordinary  requirements. 

Another  way  : — The  ingredients  for 
this  are  one  and  a half  cupfuls  of  sugar, 
half  a cupful  of  butter,  two  and  a half 
cupfuls  of  flour,  one  whole  egg  and 
the  yolks  of  four  more,  half  a cupful 
of  milk,  half  a teaspoonful  of  cream 
of  tartar,  and  one-quarter  of  a tea- 
spoonful of  soda.  Flavor  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  vanilla,  added  just 
before  baking.  Mix  the  cake  ac- 
cording to  the  directions  given  in  the 
preceding  recipes. 

Her  Majesty’s  Cake. — One  pound 
of  flour,  I lb.  of  powdered  sugar,  x/z  lb. 
of  butter,  four  eggs,  one  nutmeg,  one 
gill  of  sherry  wine,  half  a gill  of 
brandy,  one  gill  of  double  cream,  I lb. 
of  stoned  and  dried  fruit  (raisins  and 
currants).  Bake  in  round  cake-tin 
till  fired. 

Hoe  Cake.  See  Bread. 

Honey  Cake. — Stir  half  a pint  of 
sour  cream  into  a pint  of  flour.  Add 
about  half  a teaspoonful  of  ground 
ginger,  a quarter  of  a teaspoonful  of 
powdered  cinnamon,  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  sugar  and  honey,  according  to 
taste.  Mix  thoroughly,  and  when  the 
cake  is  ready  for  the  oven  add  half 
a teaspoonful  of  soda,  dissolved  in  a 
small  quantity  of  hot  water.  Beat 
again  for  a few  minutes,  pour  the 
mixture  into  a buttered  mould,  and 
bake  in  a good  oven.  This  cake 
may  be  eaten  either  warm  or  cold. 
Time,  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to 
bake. 


52 


Huckleberry  Cake 


CAKES 


Lady  Cake 


Huckleberry  Cake. — One  quart  of 
huckleberries,  ripe  and  fresh,  three 
cupfuls  of  flour,  four  eggs,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls of  baking-powder,  one  cup- 
ful of  butter,  one  cupful  of  milk,  one 
scant  teaspoonful  each  of  cinnamon 
and  grated  nutmeg.  Add  the  beaten 
yolks  of  the  eggs  to  the  creamed  butter 
and  sugar.  Stir  in  the  milk,  the 
flour,  spice,  and  the  whipped  whites. 
Dredge  the  berries,  stir  them  in  lightly 
the  last  of  all,  and  bake  in  a loaf  or  in 
muffin-pans.  Do  not  eat  this  until 
twenty-four  hours  after  baking,  if  you 
wish  to  find  it  at  its  best. 

Huckleberry  Short  Cake.  — One 

quart  of  huckleberries,  four  cupfuls 
of  flour,  two  cupfuls  of  milk,  two  eggs, 
two  table  - spoonfuls  of  butter,  or  one 
table-spoonful  of  butter  and  one  table- 
spoonful of  cottolene,  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  baking-powder.  Sift  the  salt  with 
the  flour  and  baking-powder,  chop 
in  the  shortening,  add  the  milk  and 
the  beaten  eggs,  and  mix  quickly  to  a 
light  dough.  Roll  out  two  sheets  to 
fit  a baking-pan,  making  one  sheet 
quarter  of  an  inch,  the  other  half  an 
inch  thick.  Lay  the  thinner  in  the 
greased  pan,  spread  the  berries  thick- 
ly over  it,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  and 
lay  on  the  upper  crust.  Bake  about 
twenty  minutes. 

Jelly  Cake.  — Cream  thoroughly 
one  teacupful  of  butter,  two  and  a 
half  cupfuls  of  white  sugar ; add  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs,  well  beaten ; one 
teacupful  of  milk,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder,  four  cupfuls  of  flour ; 
add  the  beaten  whites,  and  flour  al- 
ternately ; bake  in  jelly-tins  in  a quick 
oven.  When  nearly  or  quite  cold 
spread  jelly  over  the  top  of  one  cake, 
place  another  cake  over  it,  jelly  on 
this,  until  the  cakes  are  all  arranged. 
The  top  cake  should  not  have  jelly  on 
it,  but  icing. 

Jenny  Lind  Cake.  — One  table- 
spoonful of  butter,  one  cupful  of  sugar, 
one  egg,  one  cupful  of  milk,  one  pint 
of  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  either 


lemon  or  vanilla.  Mix  butter  and 
sugar  and  add  well -beaten  egg,  and 
beat  all  together  thoroughly;  add 
part  of  the  milk,  then  part  of  the 
flour,  then  the  remaining  quantities 
of  the  milk,  then  flour  with  the  baking- 
powder,  then  the  flavoring. 

Jumbles.  — One  quart  of  flour,  one 
pint  of  granulated  sugar,  a teacupful 
of  butter,  four  eggs,  one  wineglassful 
of  wine,  a teaspoonful  of  mace.  Roll 
out  thin  on  a bread-board,  wet  with 
egg,  dust  with  sugar,  and  bake  in  an 
oven  well  heated,  but  be  careful  not 
to  let  the  cakes  burn.  They  must  be 
cut  out  in  small  shapes,  such  as  rings, 
hearts,  etc.  Put  away  in  a tin  canis- 
ter; they  will  keep  fresh  quite  a while. 
Cinnamon  or  vanilla  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  mace. 

Jumbles,  Cocoanut.  — One  and  a 
half  pounds  of  grated  cocoa-nut,  the 
same  quantity  of  sugar,  and  Yz  lb. 
of  butter ; cream  well  together  the 
butter  and  sugar,  then  add  the  cocoa- 
nut,  a little  wine,  and  six  eggs,  leaving 
out  the  yolks  of  three. 

Kisses. — Beat  the  whites  of  three 
eggs  until  they  are  stiff;  then  sift 
over  the  eggs  three-quarters  of  a 
cupful  of  powdered  sugar.  Mix  the 
sugar  in  lightly  with  a knife.  Cover 
a board  with  paper,  drop  the  mixt- 
ure on  it  by  spoonfuls,  and  place  in  a 
moderate  oven,  leaving  the  door  open 
for  thirty  or  forty  minutes,  then  close 
the  door  for  a few  minutes  to  let  them 
color.  Stick  two  together  with  a little 
jelly  or  jam  between  them. 

Lady  Cake.  — The  whites  of  six- 
teen eggs,  Y\  lb.  of  sifted  flour,  Yz  lb. 
and  2 ozs.  of  fresh  butter,  i lb.  of 
powdered  sugar,  3 ozs.  of  shelled  bitter 
almonds,  two  wineglassfuls  of  rose- 
water. Blanch  the  almonds  in  scald- 
ing water.  Pound  them,  one  at  a 
time,  in  a mortar,  pouring  in,  as  you 
do  so,  the  rose-water — a few  drops  at 
a time — to  moisten  them,  make  them 
lighter,  and  keep  them  from  sinking 
in  a lump  to  the  bottom  of  the  cake. 

53 


Lady  Fingers 


CAKES 


Lily  Cake 


On  no  account  use  sweet  almonds. 
When  they  have  been  pounded  to  a 
smooth  paste,  cover  them  and  set 
them  away  in  a cold  place.  It  is 
better  to  prepare  them  the  day  before 
they  are  wanted.  Cut  up  the  butter 
in  the  sugar,  and  beat  to  a light 
cream.  Take  the  whites  only  of 
sixteen  eggs  and  beat  till  they  stand 
alone.  Then  stir  them  into  the 
creamed  butter  and  sugar  alternately 
with  the  flour,  a little  at  a time.  Stir 
the  whole  mixture  very  hard,  then 
put  it  into  a well  - buttered  tin  pan, 
and  set  immediately  in  a moderately 
hot  oven.  It  will  require  more  than 
two  hours  to  bake.  Be  careful  not 
to  let  it  burn.  When  sure  it  is  done, 
which  can  be  ascertained  by  testing 
with  a twig  from  a corn-broom,  place 
it  on  an  inverted  sieve,  cover  lightly 
with  a napkin,  and  let  it  cool  grad- 
ually. When  cold,  ice  it  with  white 
of  egg  and  powdered  loaf-sugar,  fla- 
vored with  ten  drops  of  oil  of  lemon, 
or  one  drop  of  oil  of  roses.  Do  not 
cut  it  until  the  next  day.  This  cake 
is  beautifully  white,  and,  if  the  re- 
cipe is  strictly  followed,  will  be  found 
delicious.  If  put  in  a cool  place  and 
guarded  from  the  air,  it  will  keep  a week. 

Lady  Fingers. — Four  eggs,  4 ozs. 
of  sugar,  2 ozs.  of  flour.  Beat  the 
yolks  and  sugar  together,  then  add 
the  whites  and  the  flour.  Flavor 
with  orange  flower,  rose-water,  or 
lemon.  Drop  on  paper  through  a 
paper  or  tin  funnel;  then  lay  the 
paper  on  pans  and  bake,  after  sprink- 
ling with  sugar. 

Lady  Sutherlands.— One  quart  of 
flour,  three  eggs,  one  piece  of  butter 
the  size  of  a walnut,  three  cupfuls  of 
sweet  milk,  and  a teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Beat  very  light  after  you  mix  the 
ingredients.  Bake  quickly  in  small, 
tin  patty-pans.  Make  as  shortly  be- 
fore these  cakes  are  to  be  served  as 
possible,  lest  they  fall  and  lose  their 
delicacy  with  their  lightness. 

Layer  Cake.  — Beat  the  whites  of 
seven  eggs  until  they  foam,  but  are 


not  stiff,  until  the  sugar  is  added, 
2 ozs.,  which  should  be  beaten  in  by 
degrees,  until  very  stiff  indeed.  The 
yolks  are  then  beaten  with  6 ozs. 
of  sugar  and  two  level  teaspoonfuls 
of  vanilla  sugar  to  a thick  cream, 
and  the  whites  stirred  lightly  in.  A 
quarter  of  a pound  of  flour  and  the 
same  of  corn-starch  are  sifted  gradu- 
ally in  and  stirred  very  gently;  the 
butter,  % lb.,  is  melted  and  poured 
m hot.  All  is  then  stirred  again  care- 
fully until  smooth,  when  it  is  poured 
into  buttered  pans  to  the  depth  of 
three-quarters  of  an  inch,  and  baked 
in  a quick  oven.  The  cake  is  divid- 
ed into  two  thin  sheets,  and  the  best 
jam  spread  thickly  between.  A very 
handsome  cake  is  made  by  using  four 
sheets,  and  finishing  the  top  one  with 
icing  made  of  powdered  sugar,  white 
°f  egg,  and  syrup. 

Lemon  Cake. — Beat  together  one 
scant  cupful  of  butter  and  three 
cupfuls  of  sugar;  add  the  yolks  and 
whites  of  five  eggs,  beaten  separately, 
and  one  cupful  of  milk,  three  and  a 
half  cupfuls  of  flour,  a scant  teaspoon- 
ful of  soda,  the  juice  and  rind  of  a 
lemon  (the  last  should  be  put  into  the 
creamed  butter  and  sugar  before  the 
other  ingredients  are  stirred  in). 
Frost  with  white  icing  flavored  with 
lemon-juice. 

Lemon  Tartlets. — The  juice  of  two 
lemons  and  the  rinds,  grated;  clean 
the  grater  off  with  bread,  only  using 
sufficient  crumbs  to  take  off  all  the 
lemon-peel ; beat  all  together  with  two 
eggs,  Yz  lb.  of  loaf  sugar,  and  % lb. 
of  butter.  This  is  sufficient  to  make 
twelve  tartlets,  and  will  be  found  very 
excellent.  The  pastry  in  which  the 
above  mixture  is  to  be  baked  can  be 
made  of  one  pint  of  flour  and  a spoon- 
ful each  of  butter  and  lard.  Use  the 
pretty  little  crimped  tins  used  for  the 
lining  to  tarts. 

Lily  Cake. — Cream  one  cupful  of 
sugar  and  half  a cupful  of  butter  to- 
gether. Sift  in  one  and  a half  cup- 
fuls of  flour  with  one  teaspoonful  of 
54 


Loaf  Cake 


CAKES 


Marble  Cake 


baking-powder.  Add  half  a cupful  of 
sweet  milk  and  the  whites  of  four  eggs. 
Flavor  with  extract  of  almonds.  Bake 
in  a greased  mould.  When  cool,  ice 
and  ornament  with  frosting  of  lilies. 

Loaf  Cake. — Two  quarts  of  sugar, 
seven  cupfuls  of  butter,  six  quarts  of 
sifted  flour,  6 lbs.  of  fruit,  one  pint  of 
yeast,  eight  nutmegs,  mace,  twelve 
eggs,  one  quart  of  milk.  It  should 
stand  about  six  hours  in  summer 
and  eight  in  winter.  Put  in  half  the 
butter  and  eggs,  and  the  milk,  flavor, 
and  yeast,  and  beat  thoroughly. 
In  the  evening  add  the  remainder 
of  the  butter,  rubbing  it  with  the 
sugar,  the  rest  of  the  eggs,  and  the 
spice.  Let  the  cake  rise  again  until 
morning ; then  add  the  fruit.  Put 
in  deep  pans  and  let  rise  about  half 
an  hour.  Bake  from  two  to  three 
hours  in  a slow  oven. 

Macaroons.  — Blanch  '/z  lb.  of  al- 
monds, and  pound  them  in  a mortar 
to  a smooth  paste,  adding  the  whites 
of  four  eggs,  a few  drops  at  a time. 
Put  with  these  ingredients  x/z  lb.  of 
powdered  sugar  and  a table -spoon- 
ful of  curagoa.  When  the  mixture  is 
pounded  to  a smooth  but  firm  paste, 
form  it  into  balls  nearly  an  inch  in 
diameter,  and  lay  these  on  paper. 
Leave  a little  distance  between  the 
macaroons,  and  bake  in  a gentle 
oven  until  they  are  hard  and  set. 
Keep  them  in  a cool,  dry  place  until 
wanted.  Time  to  bake  the  maca- 
roons, about  twenty  minutes.  Grated 
cocoanut  can  be  used  instead  of  al- 
monds. 

Chocolate  macaroons  make  an 
agreeable  variety,  both  in  color  and  in 
taste,  and  one  of  the  best  recipes  for 
them  is  ^ lb.  of  almond  paste,  % lb. 
of  powdered  sugar,  the  whites  of  three 
eggs,  a teaspoonful  of  rice  flour,  and 
4 ozs.  of  melted  chocolate.  Beat  the 
eggs  to  a stiff  froth,  add  to  them  the 
paste,  the  sugar,  and  the  flour  by 
degrees ; beat  thoroughly  for  five 
minutes,  and  then  stir  in  the  choco- 
late. Drop  and  bake  as  directed  for 
other  macaroons. 


Hickory -nut  macaroons  are  also 
very  good,  and  they  are  made  in  the 
same  way,  only  substituting  finely 
chopped  hickory-nuts  for  the  almond 
paste,  and  using  the  full  pound  of 
sugar.  Lemon  or  vanilla  is  a very 
satisfactory  flavoring. 

Hazel-nut  Macaroons.  — These  de- 
licious little  cakes  are  prepared  as 
follows:  Grate  very  fine  f>l/z  ozs. 

of  hazel-nuts  (shelled)  and  6 x/z  ozs. 
of  sweet  almonds  (shelled  and  peeled), 
and  add  13  ozs.  of  sugar  and  the 
beaten  whites  of  five  or  six  eggs. 
Mix  the  whole  thoroughly,  and  bake 
quickly  in  a very  hot  oven,  that  the 
outside  may  be  hard  and  the  inside 
moist.  A pretty  variation  is  to  shape 
them  like  cones. 

Maple  Cream  Cake.  — The  whites 
of  two  eggs,  the  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
one  and  a half  cupfuls  of  flour,  four 
table  - spoonfuls  of  sweet  milk,  one 
heaping  teaspoonful  of  baking-pow- 
der. Beat  thoroughly.  Pour  into  well- 
buttered  tin,  and  bake  in  a quick  oven. 

Maple  Layer  Cake.  — Yolks  of 
three  eggs,  white  of  one,  one  cupful  of 
white  sugar,  one-quarter  cupful  of 
butter,  one-third  cupful  of  sweet  milk, 
three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder, 
one  cupful  of  flour.  Beat  thoroughly. 
Bake  in  two  or  three  tins  for  layers. 
Filling : Whites  of  two  eggs,  beaten 
stiff;  add  shaved  maple  sugar  until 
it  is  like  ordinary  frosting;  add  tea- 
spoonful of  melted  butter,  and  spread 
on  layers  of  cake. 

Marble  Cake.  — The  white  : Two 
cupfuls  of  white  sugar,  one  of  butter, 
one  of  sweet  milk,  four  of  flour,  whites 
of  eight  eggs,  well  beaten;  one  tea- 
spoonful of  baking-powder.  Cream 
butter  and  sugar ; add  milk,  then 
flour,  alternating  with  white  of  eggs. 
For  the  brown : Take  one  large 

cupful  of  brown  sugar,  half  a cupful 
of  butter,  two-thirds  of  a cupful  of 
milk,  two  and  a half  cupfuls  of  flour, 
with  a teaspoonful  of  baking-powder 
rubbed  into  it ; yolks  of  eight  eggs, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  powdered  cloves, 

55 


Meringues 


CAKES 


Molasses  Fruit  Cake 


four  of  cinnamon,  same  of  allspice, 
and  one  nutmeg,  grated.  If  not  dark 
enough,  add  more  cinnamon  and  all- 
spice. Drop  in  the  baking -pan  some 
of  the  white,  then  the  brown,  having 
the  white  to  finish  off  on  the  top.  Try 
to  drop  it  in  so  that  the  cake  shall  be 
well  streaked  through. 

Another  way  : — First : Cream  to- 
gether one  cupful  of  white  sugar  and 
half  a cupful  of  butter ; then  add  the 
whites  of  four  eggs  well  beaten,  half 
a cupful  of  sweet  milk,  two  cupfuls  of 
flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  baking-pow- 
der. Second  : Cream  together  one  cup- 
ful of  brown  sugar  and  half  a cupful 
of  butter ; add  the  beaten  yolks  of  ‘four 
eggs,  half  a cupful  of  sour  milk,  in 
which  a teaspoonful  of  soda  has  been 
dissolved,  two  cupfuls  of  flour,  half 
a cupful  of  molasses,  and  one-quarter 
of  a teaspoonful  each  of  ground  all- 
spice, cinnamon,  and  cloves.  Grease 
well  a deep  baking -pan,  and  put  the 
dough  in  alternately,  commencing  with 
a layer  of  the  dark  mixture. 

Meringues.  — Meringues  are  con- 
venient for  using  the  whites  of  egg, 
and  for  these  it  is  only  necessary  to 
have  sugar  and  some  flavoring  be- 
sides. But  instead  of  the  dry,  taste- 
less things  they  usually  are,  it  will  be 
found  a great  improvement  to  bake 
them  a very  little,  allowing  only  a 
thin  crust  to  form  over  the  creamy 
inside.  For  two  whites  of  egg  take 
Yz  lb.  of  pulverized  sugar,  and  having 
beaten  the  egg  to  the  last  degree  of 
stiffness,  work  gently  in  a large 
table-spoonful  of  the  sugar,  then 
a second  and  a third.  Now  grad- 
ually stir  in  the  remainder,  and  work 
very  lightly  until  the  meringue  is 
perfectly  smooth.  The  mixture  is 
then  to  be  taken  up  in  the  spoon  and 
dropped  in  the  shape  of  its  bowl  on  a 
board  conveniently  at  hand  covered 
with  heavy,  smooth  paper,  both  board 
and  paper  having  been  well  moistened. 
It  will  require  some  care  to  form  the 
half-egg  shapes  properly,  and  when 
taken  from  the  oven,  which  should 
be  a very  moderate  one,  a small  por- 
tion of  the  soft  inside  may  be  re- 


moved from  the  centre  of  each  and  its 
place  supplied  with  raspberry  jam, 
orange  marmalade,  or  pounded  citron. 
Each  meringue  should  be  appropriate- 
ly colored  and  flavored ; and  when  the 
arrangement  of  the  inside  is  com- 
pleted, two  halves  should  be  joined 
by  moistening  the  edges  with  white 
of  egg. 

Meringues,  Italian. — Boil  i lb.  of 
the  finest  lump  sugar  in  a pint  of  water. 
When  it  has  boiled  long  enough  to 
whiten  and  become  flaky  as  it  drops 
from  the  spoon,  scrape  from  the  sides 
of  the  pan  any  sugar  that  may  be 
adhering,  and  stir  in  six  whites  of 
eggs,  which  have  been  whisked  to 
the  stiffest  possible  froth ; do  this  very 
gradually  and  slowly,  at  the  same 
time  mixing  the  mass  as  briskly  as 
possible  to  make  it  smooth.  Continue 
to  stir  until  the  mixture  is  firm  enough 
to  retain  the  shape  of  a teaspoon,  in 
which  it  is  now  to  be  moidded.  Slip 
the  meringues  quickly  off  on  paper, 
and  harden  in  a gentle  oven,  that  they 
may  retain  their  delicate  whiteness. 
Almonds  are  sometimes  pounded,  and 
mixed  with  the  eggs  and  sugar. 
These  are  very  superior  to  the  plain 
meringues,  but  they  will  require  more 
care  in  baking,  and  they  will  take  a 
longer  time ; the3^  should  be  crisp, 
and  only  lightly  browned.  Blanch 
and  pound  the  almonds.  Time, 
twenty  to  thirty  minutes. 

Molasses  Fruit  Cake. — This  will 
keep  for  weeks  in  a stone  jar  and  the 
last  piece  be  as  good  as  the  first.  A 
square  of  this  cake,  steamed  and 
served  with  creamy  or  hard  sauce, 
is  almost  equal  to  plum  pudding. 
Two-thirds  of  a teacupful  of  butter,  one 
cupful  of  brown  sugar,  two  cupfuls  of 
cooking  molasses, one  cupful  of  milk, 
four  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
one  table-spoonful  each  of  ginger  and 
cinnamon,  one  table-spoonful  of  grat- 
ed nutmeg,  four  and  a half  cupfuls  of 
sifted  flour,  one  cupful  each  of  rai- 
sins and  currants.  Cream  butter  and 
sugar  well,  add  molasses,  eggs  well 
beaten,  the  milk,  salt,  and  spices. 


Muffins 


CAKES 


Orange  Cake 


Stir  in  the  flour  by  degrees.  Dissolve 
soda  in  a table-spoonful  of  hot  water 
and  add  to  the  mixture ; flour  the  fruit 
and  add  it  last.  Bake  in  a moderate 
oven  one  hour. 

Muffins.  See  Bread. 

Neapolitans.  — Half  a pound  of 
sugar,  x/\  lb.  of  butter,  the  grated  rind 
of  a lemon,  io  ozs.  of  flour,  yolks  of 
three  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  io  ozs. 
of  almond  paste.  Mix  the  batter  to  a 
smooth  consistency  with  white  of  egg, 
and  add  the  lemon,  butter,  sugar,  and 
flour.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  beat 
in  the  eggs  and  stir  until  quite  smooth. 
Then  roll  out  a quarter  of  an  inch 
thick  and  cut  into  small  cakes  of  any 
shape,  and  bake  on  a buttered  tin. 
When  cold,  ice  in  various  colors  with 
bitter  - almond  flavor.  To  use  the 
whites  of  egg,  some  other  cake  requir- 
ing them  could  be  made  at  the  same 
time,  such  as  cocoanut  snowballs,  sil- 
ver cake,  etc. 

New-year’s  Cake. — Cream  i x/z  lbs. 
of  butter  and  I /4  lbs.  of  powdered 
sugar;  beat  well  together.  Beat  fif- 
teen eggs,  and  add,  with  i lbs.  of 
sifted  flour  and  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking  - powder ; grate  two  lemons 
in  half  a teacupful  of  molasses  and 
add  to  the  batter,  with  2 lbs.  of  finely 
chopped  almonds,  2 lbs.  of  seeded 
raisins,  and  i lb.  of  sliced  citron. 
Turn  in  a cake  mould,  and  bake  two 
hours  in  a moderate  oven. 

Nut  Cakes. — Beat  i lb.  and  i oz.  of 
sugar  with  six  eggs  for  an  hour,  add  I 
lb.  and  I oz.  of  flour,  2^4  ozs.  of  grated 
almonds — a few  bitter  ones  should 
be  added — a little  whole  cinnamon,  a 
few  whole  cloves,  the  grated  rind  of 
a lemon,  a teaspoonful  of  coarsely 
chopped,  candied  lemon-peel,  a tea- 
spoonful of  extract  of  vanilla,  a tea- 
spoonful of  rum.  When  the  whole 
has  been  thoroughly  kneaded,  shape 
it  with  the  hand  into  little  round  or 
oblong  cakes ; rub  a sheet  of  tin  over 
with  a bit  of  wax,  place  the  cakes  on 
it,  and  bake  in  a moderate  oven. 


Nut  Fruit  Cake.  — One  cupful  of 
butter  is  creamed  with  two  of  sugar, 
and  four  eggs  added,  yolks  and 
whites  beaten  separately.  One  grat- 
ed nutmeg  and  I lb.  of  flour  stirred  in 
gradually,  keeping  out  about  2 ozs. 
of  flour  to  dredge  the  nuts  and  raisins. 
A large  coffee-cupful  of  raisins,  stoned 
and  split,  and  the  same  amount  of 
hickory-nuts,  chopped  as  fine  as  pos- 
sible, are  stirred  in  last.  A cool  bread- 
oven  is  the  best  for  this  cake,  and 
when  finished  add  a thick  pink  icing 
flavored  with  rose-water,  and  deco- 
rated with  an  edging  of  home-made 
burnt  almonds. 

Nut  Layer  Cake.  — One  cupful  of 
sugar,  one  cupful  of  milk,  two  cupfuls 
of  flour,  with  two  even  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder  sifted  in,  a piece  of 
butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  two  eggs, 
the  white  of  one,  however,  being  put 
aside  for  the  frosting.  Beat  the  but- 
ter and  sugar  to  a cream,  add  the 
milk,  the  yolks  of  the  two  eggs  and 
white  of  one,  well  beaten,  and  lastly 
the  two  cupfuls  of  flour,  stirring  the 
whole  mixture  thoroughly  together. 
Then  take  out  one-third  into  another 
dish,  grate  in  sufficient  chocolate  to 
make  it  look  dark,  and  flavor  with 
vanilla.  Flavor  the  remaining  two- 
thirds  with  lemon,  put  the  chocolate 
mixture — which  is  to  form  the  middle 
layer — into  one  pan  to  bake,  and  the 
light  mixture  into  two  others.  For 
the  filling,  whip  half  a pint  of  thick 
cream,  chop  a cupful  of  walnuts  fine, 
add  a cupful  of  sugar,  and  stir  both 
into  the  cream.  Spread  between  the 
layers,  and  cover  the  top  with  an# 
icing  made  of  the  white  of  egg  re- 
served for  the  purpose,  sifting  shred- 
ded cocoanut  over  it.  If  nuts  cannot 
be  obtained,  or  several  cakes  are  to 
be  made  and  variety  is  desired,  chop- 
ped figs  or  raisins  can  be  used  with 
the  cream. 

Orange  Cake.  — Two  cupfuls  of 
sugar,  a small  half-cupful  of  butter, 
two  cupfuls  of  flour,  half  a cupful  of 
water,  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  and 
whites  of  four,  a teaspoonful  of  bak- 


57 


Peach  Short  Cake 


CAKES 


Plum  Cake 


ing-powder  sifted  with  the  flour,  the 
rind  of  one  orange  and  the  juice  of 
one  and  a half.  Beat  the  butter  to 
a cream.  Add  the  sugar  gradually, 
then  the  orange,  the  eggs,  well  beaten, 
the  water,  and  the  flour.  Bake  in 
sheets  for  twenty  - five  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven,  and,  when  cool,  frost. 
Frosting  : The  white  of  an  egg,  the 
juice  of  one  and  a half  oranges  and 
the  grated  rind  of  one,  one  and  a half 
cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  unless  the 
egg  and  oranges  are  very  large,  in 
which  case  use  twn  cupfuls. 

Another  way  : — Take  two  even 
teacupfuls  each  of  sugar  and  flour, 
half  a cupful  of  water,  the  yolks  of 
five  eggs,  beaten  very  light,  also  the 
whites  of  four,  the  juice  and  grated 
rind  of  one  orange,  and  two  tea- 
spoonfuls of  baking  - powder  sifted 
with  the  flour.  Bake  in  four  layers. 
Take  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of 
one  large  or  two  small  oranges,  three- 
fourths  of  a teacupful  of  sugar,  and 
the  white  of  one  egg,  beaten  stiff. 
Spread  this  between  layers,  adding 
more  sugar  to  that  used  for  the  top. 
For  the  filling,  wash  two  large 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter  until  it  is 
quite  fresh,  and  put  it  on  the  range 
to  melt  with  a cupful  of  granulated 
sugar.  When  these  ingredients  are 
melted,  beat  into  them  the  well- 
whipped  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  the 
white  of  one,  all  the  juice  of  two  or- 
anges and  the  grated  rind  of  one. 
Cook,  Stirling  all  the  time,  for  five  or 
ten  minutes,  or  until  very  thick. 
When  cold,  spread  this  mixture  be- 
tween the  layers  of  your  cake,  and 
make  an  icing  for  the  top  layer  of 
the  two  remaining  whites  of  eggs 
and  powdered  sugar,  flavored  with 
a little  grated  orange-peel  and  a few 
drops  of  orange-juice. 

An  orange  short  cake  makes  a 
pleasant  variation  in  the  monotony 
of  winter  desserts,  and  is  easy  to  pre- 
pare by  the  cook  who  understands 
the  mystery  of  light  biscuit  dough. 
The  fruit  should  be  cut  in  small  pieces 
and  well  sugared,  and  spread  be- 
tween and  on  top  of  the  hot  cake. 
Whipped  cream  is  a great  addition 


to  this  dish,  or  it  may  be  served  with 
a plain  liquid  sauce. 

Peach  Short  Cake. — Into  one  quart 
of  sifted  flour  add  by  three  or  four 
siftings  two  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder,  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  three  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar. 
Into  this  rub  lightly  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter,  and  add  sufficient 
sweet  milk  or  water  to  make  dough 
as  stiff  as  can  be  mixed  with  a spoon, 
but  not  stiff  enough  to  handle.  Bake 
in  two  tins  lined  with  buttered  paper, 
in  a quick  oven.  When  done,  spread 
both  cakes  evenly  with  best  of  butter, 
and  over  one  lay  a layer  of  ripe  peaches 
sliced  rather  thin ; sprinkle  thickly 
with  sugar,  cover  with  the  other  cake, 
dust  with  powdered  sugar,  and  serve 
with  abundance  of  cream. 

Piques.  — Beat  the  yolks  of  six 
eggs  very  light.  Put  in  a pinch  of 
salt  and  a few  grains  of  anise ; add 
I lb.  of  flour,  and  knead  well  until 
the  paste  snaps,  using  a little  lard 
to  prevent  it  from  sticking  to  the 
hands.  When  ready,  roll  the  paste 
half  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  into 
half  - inch  cubes.  Drop  these  into 
boiling  lard,  and  when  they  rise, 
or  swell  up,  take  up  and  drain  on 
paper.  They  should  be  cooked  a 
golden  brown.  With  I lb.  of  sugar 
make  a heavy  syrup.  Let  it  boil 
till  it  feathers,  and  add  any  flavor- 
ing that  meets  the  fancy.  Into  this 
thick  syrup  stir  the  cakes  until  it 
sugars,  when  they  will  be  covered 
with  the  white  frosting.  They  are 
now  ready  to  eat  as  soon  as  cold. 

Plum  Cake  (excellent). — Mix  three 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  and 
half  a teaspoonful  of  salt  with  I lb. 
of  flour.  Rub  into  this  x/i  lb-  of 
butter,  lard,  or  sweet  beef  dripping, 
or  portions  of  each.  Add  % lb.  of 
washed,  dried,  and  picked  currants, 
x/\  lb.  of  stoned  and  chopped  raisins, 
x/z  lb.  of  sugar,  2 ozs.  of  candied  peel 
cut  into  narrow  strips,  and  a small 
nutmeg,  grated.  Mix  these  ingredi- 
ents thoroughly.  Beat  two  eggs  for 


Plum  Cake 


CAKES 


Pound  Cake 


five  or  six  minutes.  Mix  with  them 
four  drops  of  almond  essence  and  a 
little  milk.  Stir  this  into  the  flour, 
and  add  as  much  milk  as  will  make 
it  into  a light  dough.  Put  it  into  a 
large,  buttered  tin,  or  two  small  ones, 
and  bake  immediately  for  one  or 
two  hours,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  tins. 

Plum  Cake.  — Wash,  seed,  and 
chop  a cupful  of  raisins,  and  wash 
and  stem  half  a cupful  of  currants. 
Spread  on  a platter  in  a warm  place 
to  dry.  When  the  currants  and 
raisins  are  thoroughly  dry,  mix 
them  with  half  a cupful  of  minced 
citron,  and  dredge  all  with  flour. 
Cream  together  one  cupful  of  butter 
and  one  and  a half  cupfuls  of  pow- 
dered sugar.  Whip  into  this  six 
thoroughly  beaten  eggs ; add  two 
cupfuls  of  sifted  flour,  a teaspoonful 
each  of  nutmeg  and  cinnamon,  half 
a teaspoonful  of  mace,  and  the  floured 
fruit.  Last  of  all,  stir  in  a wineglass- 
ful of  brandy.  This  loaf  should  be 
baked  in  a steady  oven  for  at  least 
two  hours. 

Plum  Cake,  Christmas. — Cream  I 
lb.  of  butter  and  I lb.  of  sugar  togeth- 
er ; add  the  beaten  yolks  of  eighteen 
eggs,  one  gill  of  molasses,  I lb.  of 
sifted  flour,  six  table-spoonfuls  of 
coarse  flour,  and  one  wineglassful  of 
brandy ; beat  all  together  for  five 
minutes.  Add  3 lbs.  of  seeded  rai- 
sins, 1 lb.  of  dried  currants,  Y/z  lb. 
each  of  almonds  and  sliced  citron, 
well  floured;  2 ozs.  of  grated  cocoa- 
nut,  one  table-spoonful  each  of  ground 
allspice,  mace,  and  cloves,  and  two 
grated  nutmegs ; lastly,  add  the 
beaten  whites  of  the  eggs.  Mix 
well,  pour  in  one  large  or  two  smaller 
cake  moulds,  and  bake  in  a moderate 
oven  for  six  hours ; ornament  when 
cold  with  fancy  sugar-plums  and  a 
wreath  of  holly. 

Pound  Cake  (old  - fashioned).  — 
One  pound  of  sweet  butter,  1 lb.  of 
flour  thoroughly  dried  in  the  oven. 
Stone  1 lb.  of  raisins,  cut  them  in 


two,  and  sift  them  lightly  with  flour. 
Cream  the  washed  butter  and  stir  into 
it  1 lb.  of  sugar.  Grate  one  nutmeg 
into  the  creamed  mixture,  and  the  yel- 
low rind  of  a lemon.  Measure  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  good  brandy  and 
dissolve  in  it  a piece  of  soda  the  size 
of  a pea.  Take  seven  saucers  and 
break  one  egg  into  each  one  of  four 
of  the  saucers;  into  the  other  three 
saucers  put  two  eggs  each.  Into  the 
creamed  mixture  turn  one  egg  with  one 
table  - spoonful  of  flour,  and  beat  for 
five  minutes.  Treat  the  four  single 
eggs  in  this  manner,  beating  the  re- 
quired five  minutes  each  time.  Then 
add  two  eggs  at  a time,  and  after  all 
are  stirred  in  beat  the  batter  ten  min- 
utes. Put  in  the  brandy,  the  juice  of 
the  lemon,  and  then  the  prepared  rai- 
sins. Beat  ten  minutes  longer.  Bake 
this  in  a paper-lined  and  well-buttered 
cake -tin.  This  cake  should  require 
about  two  hours  to  bake;  the  oven 
should  grow  hotter  as  the  cake  bakes. 
Always  place  a loaf  of  cake  to  the 
ear  when  testing  it  to  see  if  it  is  done. 
So  long  as  a cake  “ sings”  it  is  not 
ready  to  be  taken  out. 

Another  way  : — Beat  1 lb.  of  fresh 
butter  to  a cream.  Beat  into  it  I lb. 
of  fine  sugar,  pounded  and  sifted,  upon 
part  of  which,  before  it  was  pounded, 
the  rind  of  two  oranges  or  lemons  has 
been  rubbed ; I lb.  of  dried  flour,  a 
pinch  of  salt,  eight  eggs  which  have 
been  thoroughly  whisked,  the  vrhites 
and  yolks  separately,  and  a glass  of 
wine,  brandy,  or  rose-water.  Beat 
the  mixture  for  twenty  minutes,  and 
pour  it  into  a tin  which  has  been  lined 
with  buttered  paper.  Bake  in  a well- 
heated  though  not  fierce  oven,  and,  if 
possible,  do  not  increase  the  heat  until 
the  cake  is  baked.  Though  the  cake 
must  be  turned  about  that  it  may  be 
equally  browned,  the  oven  door  must 
not  be  opened  oftener  than  is  abso- 
lutely necessary ; and  if  the  cake  gets 
too  highly  colored  before  it  is  done 
enough,  a piece  of  paper  should  be 
laid  upon  it.  In  order  to  ascertain 
whether  it  is  sufficiently  baked,  put  a 
skewer  to  the  bottom  of  it,  and  if  it 
comes  out  dry  and  clean  the  cake  is 


Columbia  Public  Library 
Columbia , Mo , 


Pound  Cake 


CAKES 


Puffs,  Cream 


done ; if  moist,  it  must  be  returned  at 
once  to  the  oven.  When  the  cake  is 
done  it  should  be  turned  out  at  once 
and  placed-  upon  its  side,  or  else  on  a 
sieve  which  has  been  turned  upside 
down,  until  it  is  cold,  and  the  paper 
should  not  be  removed  until  the  cake 
is  to  be  used.  This  cake  may  be  made 
either  larger  or  smaller  by  increasing 
the  quantity  of  the  ingredients  in 
their  due  proportions ; and  it  may  be 
made  less  rich  by  using  a larger  quan- 
tity of  flour.  A pound  of  picked  and 
dried  currants  is  frequently  added  to 
the  other  ingredients,  and  the  flavor 
may  be  varied  by  the  addition  of  can- 
died peel,  lemon  or  orange,  blanched 
and  chopped  almonds,  pistachio  ker- 
nels, dried  cherries,  or  plums.  Time 
to  bake,  one  hour  and  a half  to  two 
hours. 

Pound  Cake  (a  very  old  recipe). — 
Take  i lb.  of  butter,  I lb.  of  sugar,  i 
lb.  of  flour,  io  eggs,  2 table-spoonfuls 
of  rose-water.  Beat  the  sugar  and 
butter  together  as  light  as  possible, 
then  add  gradually  the  rose-water  and 
about  one-fourth  of  the  flour ; whisk 
the  eggs  until  very  thick,  stir  in 
the  butter  and  sugar  gradually,  then 
the  remainder  of  the  flour,  a small 
quantity  at  a time.  Beat  all  well 
together.  Line  your  pan  with  white 
paper,  put  in  your  batter,  smooth  the 
■top  with  a knife,  and  bake  in  a mod- 
erate oven  about  two  and  a half  hours. 

Prince  Albert  Cake.  — Whites  of 
twelve  eggs,  five  cupfuls  of  flour,  three 
cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  and  a half  cup- 
fids  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  new  milk 
or  cream,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder.  Flavor  the  batter  with  the 
grated  rind  and  juice  of  a lemon,  and 
bake  in  round  cake-tins.  Flavor  with 
vanilla  an  icing  made  of  I lbs.  of 
pulverized  sugar  and  whites  of  three 
eggs,  beaten  very  lightly.  Bake  half 
the  batter  just  as  it  is  in  three  plates. 
In  the  other  half  mix  T/z  lb.  of  seeded 
raisins,  same  quantity  of  currants, 
and  same  of  shredded  citron,  and  bake 
this  batter  in  other  three  plates,  so  as 
to  have  six  layers.  Put  the  icing  be- 


tween alternate  layers  of  fruit  and 
plain  cake. 

Puff  Paste.  — One  pound  of  flour, 
I lb.  of  butter,  one  egg.  Take  from 
the  butter  a lump  the  size  of  a hen’s 
egg,  and,  adding  a pinch  of  salt,  knead 
the  flour  and  egg  into  a very  stiff 
dough  with  cold  water.  Have  ready 
an  extra  half-pint  of  flour  for  dredging, 
and,  if  possible,  have  a marble  slab 
on  which  to  roll  pastry.  Divide  the 
butter  into  five  equal  parts.  After 
kneading  the  dough  full  ten  minutes, 
roll  it  out  on  your  board  or  slab  and 
put  on  one  portion  of  butter  cut  into 
small  bits  and  dotted  over  the  dough. 
Dredge  over  a layer  of  flour  and  roll 
up,  then  out  over  the  board  again. 
Repeat  this  process  until  all  the  butter 
and  flour  are  consumed,  and  you  will 
have  delicious,  flaky  pastry  for  the 
lining  of  pudding  or  patty  pans.# 

See  Pies  for  other  paste  recipes. 

Puffs.  See  Bread. 

Puffs,  Almond.  — Roll  a sheet  of 
puff  paste  very  thin.  Beat  the  whites 
of  two  eggs,  add  powdered  sugar  to 
make  a stiffening,  and  mix  in  a cupful 
of  blanched  and  chopped  almonds. 
Spread  the  mixture  on  the  pastry  with 
a very  sharp  knife,  cut  it  in  pieces 
two  inches  long  and  one  wide,  put 
these  carefully  in  a pan,  and  set  in 
the  stove  to  brown  slightly.  Take 
out  and  let  cool.  Arrange  on  a large, 
round  dish  in  a pyramid,  fill  the  cen- 
tre with  whipped  cream  flavored  with 
vanilla,  and  serve  very  cold. 

Puffs,  Cream.  — One-half  pound  of 
butter,  lb.  of  flour,  six  eggs,  two 
cupfuls  of  warm  water.  Stir  the  butter 
into  the  water,  set  over  the  fire,  and 
stir  to  a slow  boil.  When  it  boils 
put  in  the  flour ; cook  one  minute, 
stirring  constantly.  Turn  into  a deep 
dish  to  cool.  Beat  the  eggs  light, 
yolks  and  whites  separately,  and  whip 
into  cooled  paste,  the  whites  last.  Drop 
in  large  spoonfuls  upon  buttered  paper. 
Bake  about  ten  minutes  in  a quick 
oven  until  they  are  of  a golden  brown. 


Puffs,  French 


CAKES 


Raisin  Cake 


Puffs,  French. — Take  a pint  of  new 
milk,  boil  half,  and  mix  the  other  half 
very  smoothly  with  four  heaped  table- 
spoonfuls of  fine  flour ; then  add  it  to 
the  boiling  milk,  and  boil  it  until  it 
is  a stiff  paste.  When  cold,  take  the 
yolks  of  five  eggs,  the  whites  of  two, 
a table-spoonful  of  pulverized  sugar, 
and  beat  the  whole  into  a light  batter 
in  a marble  mortar ; then  drop  it  from 
a spoon  into  boiling  lard,  fry  a light 
brown,  and  serve  it  up  with  sifted 
sugar  over  each.  A small  piece  of 
any  candied  fruit  may  be  dropped  into 
each  spoonful  of  the  batter. 

Puffs,  German. — Put  Yz  lb.  of  but- 
ter into  a teacupful  of  sweet  milk  ; 
have  ready  in  a bowl  or  pan  a cupful 
of  sifted  flour.  When  the  milk  has 
boiled,  stir  it  gradually  into  the 
flour,  and  beat  until  perfectly  smooth. 
Beat  in  six  eggs,  leaving  out  two 
of  the  whites ; also  add  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  sugar  and  a little  grated 
lemon-rind  or  powdered  cinnamon  for 
flavoring.  Drop  the  batter  into  little 
patty-pans,  and  bake  the  puffs  in  a 
moderately  heated  oven. 

Puffs,  Lemon.  — Sift  Yz  lb.  of  fine 
white  sugar,  grate  the  rind  from  three 
lemons,  then  whip  up  an  egg  to  a froth, 
and  mix  all  together  to  the  consist- 
ency of  good  paste  ; cut  it  into  shapes 
and  bake  upon  writing-paper,  being 
careful  not  to  handle  the  paste.  Place 
the  paper  upon  a flat  tin,  and  bake 
in  a very  slow*  oven. 

Puffs,  Tea. — Beat  the  yolks  of  six 
eggs  till  they  are  very  light ; stir  in  a 
pint  of  sweet  milk,  a large  pinch  of 
salt,  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to 
a froth,  and  flour  enough  to  make 
a batter  about  as  thick  as  boiled  cus- 
tard. Bake  in  gem-pans  in  a quick 
oven. 

Puffs,  Transparent. — Beat  four 
eggs  very  well ; put  them  into  a sauce- 
pan with  Y\  lb-  of  granulated  sugar, 
the  same  quantity  of  butter,  and  the 
grated  rind  of  a lemon.  Set  it  on  the 
fire  and  keep  stirring  it  till  it  thickens. 


When  cool,  half  fill  small  patty-pans 
that  have  been  first  lined  with  a light 
puff  paste,  and  bake  till  the  puffs 
look  light  and  clear. 

Quick  Cake.  — Beat  the  yolks  of 
six  eggs  with  % lb.  of  sugar.  Whip 
up  the  whites  and  add  them  to  the 
yolks.  Cream  Yz  lb.  of  butter  with 
Yz  lb.  of  flour,  and  put  the  eggs  with 
this.  Then  add  the  other  half  of 
flour,  and  beat  it  well.  Add  to  this 
one  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder, 
with  a teacupful  of  cream  or  milk. 
Season  to  taste.  Have  your  cake- 
tin  ready,  hurry  it  into  the  oven,  and 
bake  quickly.  This  is  an  excellent 
cake,  whether  eaten  as  a pudding, 
with  hot  sauce,  or  otherwise. 

Railroad  Cake. — Cream  two  large 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  free  from 
salt,  with  two  cupfuls  of  sand  sugar ; 
when  light,  add  one  cupful  of  new 
milk  and  the  yolks  of  three  eggs. 
Into  three  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour  rub 
thoroughly  a teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder,  and  add  to  the  batter ; beat 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  until  light; 
add  to  the  cake,  alternating  with 
flour. 

Raisin  Cake.  — Wash  well  i lb. 
of  sweet  butter,  and  cream  with  it  I 
lb.  of  white  sugar.  Add  slowly  one 
quart  of  tepid  new  milk  and  4 lbs.  of 
sifted  flour ; mix  well  into  it  a tea- 
cupful of  lively,  home-made  yeast, 
and  put  in  a warm  place  until  light. 
This  should  be  in  four  or  five  hours, 
when  mix  into  this  batter  another 
pound  each  of  butter  and  sugar,  well 
creamed  together,  and,  if  needed,  more 
flour.  Have  ready  2 lbs.  of  raisins, 
seeded  and  cut  fine,  and  Yz  lb.  of  cur- 
rants. Mix  a small  quantity  of  flour 
through  the  fruit,  and  stir  into  the  bat- 
ter with  a little  pulverized  mace.  Let 
the  batter  rise  again,  stir  well,  and 
pour  into  buttered  tins,  putting  them 
in  a warm  place  until  the  mixture 
commences  to  rise  ; then  set  into  a 
slack  oven,  increasing  the  heat  grad- 
ually until  hot  enough,  and  bake 
about  an  hour  and  a quarter. 


Ribbon  Cake 


CAKES 


Short-cake,  Currant 


Ribbon  Cake. — Beat  together  to  a 
light  cream  two  and  a half  cupfuls  of 
sugar  and  one  of  butter.  Then  add 
four  well-beaten  eggs,  one  cupful  of 
milk  (in  which  one  tcaspoonful  of 
soda,  dissolved  in  a little  water,  has 
been  put),  and  four  cupfuls  of  flour, 
into  which  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream 
of  tartar  have  been  sifted.  (The  best 
way  is  to  measure  the  flour,  pour  it 
into  a sieve,  add  the  cream  of  tartar, 
and  sift  the  whole  through  together.) 
When  the  flour  has  been  thoroughly 
mixed  with  the  other  ingredients, 
take  out  one-third  of  the  dough,  and 
add  to  it  one  cupful  of  currants,  one 
and  a half  cupfuls  of  raisins,  stoned 
and  chopped,  % lb.  of  citron  cut  into 
dice,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  molasses, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  brandy. 
Divide  the  light  cake  into  halves 
and  bake  in  two  separate  pans,  the 
fruit  cake  in  a third  one  of  the  same 
size.  (These  may  be  either  round 
or  square,  but  must  be  deeper  than 
those  used  for  “ Washington  pies/') 
When  done,  arrange  one  above  an- 
other, the  dark  cake  in  the  centre, 
with  currant  jelly  between ; press 
then  firmly  together  with  the  hands, 
and  add  an  icing. 

Rice  Cake.  — Beat  to  a foam  the 
yolks  of  eight  and  whites  of  four 
eggs ; to  this  stir  in  6 ozs.  of  powder- 
ed sugar,  the  grated  peel  of  one  lem- 
on, and  x/z  lb.  of  ground  rice.  Beat 
all  well  together  for  twenty  minutes 
or  half  an  hour.  Bake  twenty  min- 
utes. 

Scones.  See  Bread. 

Scotch  Cakes.  — One  pound  of 
flour,  x/z  lb.  of  butter,  and  x/\  lb.  of 
sugar ; let  the  butter  stand  in  a 
basin  near  the  fire  to  soften,  but  not 
to  melt ; when  soft,  rub  it  into  the 
flour ; then  rub  in  the  sugar.  Roll 
out  a sheet  half  an  inch  thick,  cut 
out  cakes  about  two  inches  square, 
and  bake  until  they  are  a light  brown. 
Put  them  away  in  a stone  jar,  and 
they  will  in  a day  or  two  gather 
moisture  enough  to  be  soft. 


Seed  Cakes. — Rub  6 ozs.  of  butter 
into  I lb.  of  flour,  add  a pinch  of  salt, 
a teaspoonful  of  mixed  spice,  a table- 
spoonful of  caraway-seeds,  and  6 
ozs.  of  sugar.  Mix  the  dry  ingre- 
dients thoroughly.  Put  a teaspoon- 
ful of  soda  into  half  a pint  of  milk, 
and  set  it  in  the  oven  till  the  soda 
is  dissolved.  Let  the  milk  cool  a 
little,  and  when  it  is  lukewarm  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  vinegar,  and  stir  it 
into  the  cake.  Beat  the  cake  well, 
and  bake  in  a moderately  heated  oven. 
Time  to  bake,  one  hour. 

Another  way : — Rub  6 ozs.  of 
butter  into  lb.  of  flour,  add  a pinch 
of  salt,  5 ozs.  of  sugar,  and  a dessert- 
spoonful of  caraway-seed.  Dissolve 
half  a small  teaspoonful  of  soda  in  a 
teaspoonful  of  hot  milk.  Beat  this 
up  with  two  eggs  already  well  whisk- 
ed, and  stir  the  whole  into  the  cake. 
Put  the  mixture  into  a buttered  tin, 
and  bake  in  a moderately  heated 
oven.  Time  to  bake,  from  thirty 
to  forty  minutes. 

Short  Bread. — Take  4 ozs.  of  butter 
and  4 ozs.  of  home-cured  lard.  Put 
these  into  1 lb.  of  flour.  Make  a 
little  hole  or  well  in  the  centre  of  the 
mixture,  and  sift  in  4 ozs.  of  fine 
castor  sugar  dissolved  with  a dessert- 
spoonful of  water.  Work  the  whole 
into  a smooth  paste  on  the  baking- 
board,  roll  out,  and  cut  it  into  round 
cakes  half  an  inch  thick.  Pinch 
up  the  edges,  ornament  with  strips 
of  orange  peel,  and,  if  liked,  with  a 
few  caraway-seeds.  Bake  the  cakes 
a delicate  brown  color  in  a slow  oven. 
The  special  features  of  Scotch  short 
bread  are  that  it  should  be  worked 
into  a paste  without  moisture  and 
baked  very  slowly. 

Short  Cake,  Currant.  — Mash  two 
quarts  of  currants,  add  to  them  1 
lb.  of  granulated  sugar,  and  let  them 
stand  for  an  hour  before  your  cake 
is  prepared.  Make  a rich  biscuit 
dough,  and  roll  it  into  a large,  round 
cake  about  the  size  of  a pie-plate. 
Bake  quickly,  and  when  done  tear 
open,  butter  thickly,  lay  one-half  on 
6 2 


Short-cake,  Orange 


CAKES 


Spice  Cake 


top  of  the  other,  and  pour  between 
and  over  the  two  layers  the  sugared 
currants  and  all  the  juice.  There 
will  be  so  much  of  this  juice  that  it 
will  be  well  to  place  the  cake  on  a 
large  platter.  Serve  at  once.  If 
the  currants  are  very  tart,  sprinkle 
each  slice  of  the  short  cake  liberally 
with  sugar  as  you  serve  it.  Do  not 
eat  with  cream. 

Short  Cake,  Orange,  is  a pleasant 
variation  in  the  monotony  of  winter 
desserts,  and  is  easy  to  prepare  by 
the  cook  who  understands  the  mystery 
of  light  biscuit  dough.  The  fruit 
should  be  cut  in  small  pieces  and 
well  sugared,  and  spread  between 
and  on  top  of  the  hot  cake.  Whipped 
cream  is  a great  addition  to  this  dish, 
or  it  may  be  served  with  a plain  liquid 
sauce. 

Short  Cake,  Strawberry. — Mix  two 

cupfuls  of  flour,  one  egg  well  beaten, 
butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  lard  the 
size  of  an  egg,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  sugar,  two  level  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder  sifted  in  with  the 
flour,  as  if  for  biscuit  dough.  Roll, 
divide  into  equal  layers,  put  one 
above  the  other,  and  bake.  Crush 
together  a quart  of  strawberries  and 
a cupful  of  pulverized  sugar.  When 
the  short  cake  is  done,  separate  the 
layers,  spread  the  berries  thickly 
between  and  above  them,  and  place 
the  whole  again  in  the  oven  for  five 
minutes.  Serve  hot. 

Short  Cakes,  Raspberry  and  Black- 
berry.— Have  the  fruit  cooked  in  them. 
Line  a baking-pan  with  the  usual 
short  biscuit  dough,  cover  to  the 
depth  of  an  inch  with  berries,  strew 
thickly  with  granulated  sugar,  lay 
over  the  berries  an  upper  crust,  and 
bake  in  a steady  oven.  Cut  into 
squares  while  very  hot,  split,  and 
eat  with  butter  and  sugar.  Huckle- 
berry, peach,  and  apple  short-cake 
may  be  made  in  the  same  way. 

Silver  Cake.  — One-half  cupful  of 
butter,  one  and  a half  cupfuls  of  sugar. 


two  and  a half  cupfuls  of  flour,  one- 
half  cupful  of  milk,  the  whites  of 
four  eggs,  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder.  After  the  dough  is 
ready  for  baking,  stir  in,  if  desired, 
lb.  of  blanched  almonds,  chopped 
fine,  or  flavor  with  essence  of  almond. 
Use  icing  or  not.  Chocolate  icing 
is  very  pretty  on  the  silver  cake. 

Snow-mountain  Cake. — Cream  un- 
til very  light  half  a pint  of  butter; 
add  slowly,  stirring  all  the  time, 
a pint  of  pulverized  white  sugar, 
and  when  the  mixture  is  light  add 
half  a pint  of  new  milk;  when  well 
mixed,  the  yolks  of  five  eggs ; rub 
thoroughly  into  a heaping  quart 
of  flour  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  sift,  then  stir  in  the  butter, 
alternating  with  the  beaten  whites 
of  three  of  the  eggs,  reserving  the 
other  two  for  the  icing.  Either  bake 
in  pans  or  jelly-plates ; in  the  latter 
case,  put  a chocolate  icing  between 
the  layers  of  three  of  the  cakes,  and 
the  other  three  the  beaten  whites  of 
the  two  eggs,  adding  four  teaspoon- 
fuls of  fine  powdered  sugar ; on  top 
of  each  layer  of  cake  and  icing  put 
grated  cocoanut. 

Spanish  Winde.  — Whisk  the 

whites  of  eight  eggs  to  a very  stiff 
snow.  Flavor  with  a teaspoonful  of 
best  vanilla  extract.  Mix  with  these 
I lb.  of  pulverized  sugar,  very  grad- 
ually, so  that  the  eggs  will  not  be 
made  to  run.  Whisk  the  whole 
until  all  the  sugar  is  in.  Make  a 
sheet  tin  hot,  then  rub  it  over  with 
white  wax ; drop  on  this  with  a tea- 
spoon little  piles  of  snow,  which  must 
not  touch.  Sift  a little  sugar  over, 
and  bake  them  in  a rather  slow  oven. 
They  must  be  merely  tinged  a cream 
color. 

Spice  Cake.  — Six  eggs,  % lb.  of 
butter,  i lb.  of  pulverized  sugar,  I lb. 
of  flour,  one  teacupful  of  sour  milk, 
two  large  or  three  small  nutmegs, 
two  table  - spoonfuls  of  cinnamon, 
one  heaping  table-spoonful  of  ground 
ginger,  half  a teacupful  of  brandy 


Spice  Cakes 


CAKES 


• Sponge  Cake,  Quick 


or  wine,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda 
dissolved  in  as  small  a quantity  of 
vinegar  as  will  dissolve  it.  Cream 
the  butter,  and  add  to  it  the  sugar 
and  yolks  of  eggs,  then  the  flour 
and  whites  alternately,  then  the 
spices  and  sour  milk,  and  the  soda  last 
of  all.  Bake  in  small  moulds  quickly 
after  it  rises.  This  recipe  never 
fails,  and  is  a general  favorite  when 
served  with  French  sauce  as  a pud- 
ding. The  flavor  is  much  admired. 

Spice  Cakes.  — These  are  the 
French  gateaux  d’ epice ; they  are 
made  of  the  following  ingredients : 
Molasses,  one  pint ; butter,  x/z  lb.  ; 
powdered  ginger,  I oz. ; powdered 
cinnamon,  I oz. ; powdered  allspice, 

Y\  oz. ; coriander  seeds  and  small 
cardamom  seeds,  pounded,  each  % 
oz. ; candied  lemon-peel,  chopped  very 
fine,  2 ozs. ; tincture  of  vanilla,  six 
drops ; flour,  as  much  as  necessary. 
The  molasses  being  set  over  the  fire, 
the  butter  is  to  be  added,  and,  suc- 
cessively, all  the  other  ingredients 
except  the  flour.  Let  them,  when 
well  mixed,  take  a single  boil,  stirring 
all  the  while;  then  set  them  to  cool. 
When  cold,  mix  in  with  a wooden 
spoon  as  much  flour  as  will  convert 
the  whole  into  a stiff  paste.  Butter  a 
tin  baking-dish,  and  lay  on  it  with  the 
spoon  the  paste  in  bits  of  the  size 
and  shape  necessary  to  form  the  small 
cakes  or  nuts.  Set  the  baking-dish 
in  the  oven.  You  may  ascertain 
when  these  cakes  are  done  by  taking 
one  out  of  the  oven  and  letting  it 
cool.  If,  when  cold,  it  is  hard,  they 
are  done  enough.  These  are  con- 
sidered the  ne  plus  ultra  of  French 
gingerbread-nuts. 

Sponge  Cake.  — Three  coffee-cup- 
fuls of  flour,  the  same  quantity  of 
white  sugar,  nine  eggs,  and  one  lemon. 
Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  lightly  to- 
gether, add  the  juice  of  the  lemon  and 
a small  portion  of  the  finely  grated 
rind.  After  it  is  well  stirred,  add  one 
teaspoonful  of  baking-powder;  mix 
this  well  also.  To  the  yolks  and  sugar 
now  add  half  of  the  beaten  whites, 

64 


then  all  the  flour  and  the  remainder  of 
the  whites. 

Another  way  : — Ten  eggs,  two  and 
a half  cupfuls  of  sugar,  two  and  a half 
cupfuls  of  pastry  flour,  and  the  juice 
and  grated  rind  of  one  lemon  are  re- 
quired. Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  to- 
gether until  very  light,  and  add  the 
lemon.  Beat  the  whites  to  a stiff 
froth,  and  stir  them  in  quickly  at  the 
last,  after  the  flour.  This  may  be 
baked  in  one  large  shedt,  or  in  a dozen 
small  cakes  and  one  large  one.  Use 
for  the  small  cakes  the  ordinary  gem- 
pans,  either  round  or  oval,  which 
come  in  a single  sheet.  Half  an  hour 
will  suffice  to  bake  these  in  a moder- 
ate oven,  but  the  large  cake  will  take 
considerably  longer,  the  time  depend- 
ing upon  the  thickness  of  the  batter. 
A cake  four  inches  thick  when  baked 
requires  an  hour  and  a quarter.  It 
will  keep  moist  several  dfeys,  and 
even  the  small  cakes,  unlike  baker's 
sponge  cakes,  are  good  the  second  or 
third  day  if  kept  in  a closely  covered 
box.  One  of  the  tin  cups  with  gradu- 
ated marks,  which  holds  half  a pint, 
is  best  to  use  for  measuring.  This 
cake  may  be  cut  into  finger  - length 
strips  and  used  for  the  home  - made 
charlotte  russe,  and  is  far  better  than 
baker’s  cake  for  the  purpose. 

Sponge  Cake  for  Two. — Beat  the 
whites  of  four  eggs  to  a stiff  froth,  add 
one  teacupful  of  sugar,  then  the  yolks  ; 
lastly,  one  teacupful  of  flour.  To  be 
perfect,  this  cake  must  always  be  put 
together  in  the  order  given  in  the  recipe. 

Sponge  Cake,  Boiled. — Beat  the 
whites  and  the  yolks  of  seven  eggs 
separately,  then  put  them  together 
and  beat  until  very  light.  Boil  to- 
gether a cupful  and  a half  of  sugar 
and  six  table-spoonfids  of  water,  and, 
while  hot,  pour  slowly  on  the  eggs, 
beating  steadily.  Continue  for  fif- 
teen or  twenty  minutes,  then  add  the 
juice  of  a lemon  and  one  and  three- 
quarter  cupfuls  of  flour. 

Sponge  Cake,  Quick.  — Beat  two 
eggs  and  two  cupfuls  of  sugar  together 


|see  p.  213 


VIOLET  JELLY  WITH  WHIPPED  CREAM  AND  WREATH  OF  VIOLETS 


[See  p.  163 

GRAPE  FRUIT  WITH  MARASCHINO  CHERRIES 


[See  p.  97 

EGGS  A LA  BONNE  FEMME 


Straws 


CAKES 


Wafers,  Almond 


till  very  light.  Add  two  cupfuls  of  flour 
in  which  two  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing-powder and  half  a teaspoonful  of 
salt  have  been  mixed.  Lastly,  add 
three-quarters  of  a cupful  of  boiling 
water  and  a teaspoonful  of  lemon 
extract.  Bake  quickly  in  two  small 
loaves. 

Straws. — One  quart  of  flour,  one 
teaspoonful  of  baking-powder;  in  this 
cut  finely  a piece  of  butter  the  size  of 
an  egg,  break  three  eggs  in,  and  add 
two  cupfuls  of  sugar  and  one  cupful 
of  milk.  Cut  out  about  as  thick  as 
doughnuts,  and  fry  in  hot  lard. 

Sunshine  Cake  and  Cream.  — "Mix 
one-half  cupful  of  flour  and  one  tea- 
spoonful of  cream  of  tartar,  and  sift 
five  times  ; sift  three-quarters  of  a cup- 
ful of  granulated  sugar  three  times ; 
beat  the  whites  of  six  eggs  very  stiff, 
and  slowly  beat  the  sugar  in,  using  a 
long,  not  a Dover,  egg-beater;  have 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten  by  some 
one  else,  that  they  may  be  put  in  at 
once  after  the  sugar,  and  then  add  the 
flour  last,  with  one-half  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  flavoring,  beating  all  the  time. 
Bake  in  a large,  round  tin  with  a tube 
in  the* middle,  and  when  cold  turn  over 
and  cut  off  the  bottom  of  the  cake  and 
take  out  the  inside  with  a fork ; fill 
this  shell  solidly  full  of  rich,  French 
vanilla  ice  - cream,  put  the  cover  on 
again  and  cover  with  powdered  sugar. 
Cut  wedge  - shaped  pieces  directly 
through  the  whole.  If  a large  com- 
pany is  to  be  served,  the  quantities 
may  be  doubled. 

Sweet  Cakes.  — Three  eggs,  one 
teacupful  of  butter  or  lard,  two  cupfuls 
of  sifted  flour,  one  grated  nutmeg,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  sifted 
with  the  flour,  two  ctipfuls  of  sugar. 
Cream  the  butter  with  one  cupful  of 
the  sugar.  Beat  the  eggs,  whites 
and  yolks  separately,  and  put  into  the 
yolks  the  remaining  cupful  of  sugar. 
Add  this  to  the  butter,  and  put  in  the 
whites  and  flour  last.  Roll  the  dough 
out  thin,  cut  into  shapes,  and  bake 
quickly. 

5 


Tea  Cakes. — Two  pounds  of  flour, 
% lb.  of  butter,  mixed  as  for  pastry, 
a little  more  than  a pint  of  milk,  and 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  liquid  yeast, 
or  half  a yeast  cake.  Mix  the  flour 
and  butter,  pour  in  the  milk  and  yeast, 
and  let  it  rise  for  an  hour  and  a quar- 
ter ; then  add  a little  more  milk,  knead 
well,  and  let  it  rise  again  for  an  hour 
and  a half.  This  will  make  eight 
cakes  the  size  of  the  inside  of  a break- 
fast plate.  Let  them  stand  to  rise 
for  a few  minutes  before  the  fire,  and 
then  bake  until  thoroughly  brown. 
Then  take  them  from  the  oven  and 
rub  a little  butter  over  them  to  give 
them  a nice  glaze,  and  return  them 
to  the  oven  until  thoroughly  done. 
Good  the  first  night  split  open  and 
buttered.  The  second  day  toast 
them  and  butter  them. 

Velvet  Cakes. — Make  a batter  of  a 
quart  of  flour,  three  eggs,  a quart  of 
milk,  half  a cupful  of  yeast.  When 
well  mixed  stir  in  a large  spoonful 
of  melted  butter,  and  bake  in  muffin- 
rings,  after  they  have  had  time  to 
rise. 

Wafers. — There  are  many  ways  of 
making  wafers,  but,  however  made, 
they  must  be  baked  in  the  same  way — 
that  is,  in  irons  made  for  the  purpose, 
and  called  wafer-irons.  These  irons 
should  be  used  as  follows  : Heat  an 

iron  on  both  sides  over  a moderate 
fire.  Rub  it  inside  with  a little  butter, 
put  a teaspoonful  of  the  wafer  batter 
into  it,  close  the  iron  upon  this  al- 
most immediately,  and  put  it  on  the 
fire.  When  cooked  upon  one  side, 
turn  it  upon  the  other.  Cut  away 
the  superfluous  paste  round  the  edges, 
and  roll  the  wafer  on  a stick  while 
it  is  still  warm.  Put  in  another  piece 
of  batter,  and  repeat  until  all  the  bat- 
ter is  used.  Keep  the  wafers  in  a tin 
box  in  a dry  place  till  wanted. 

Wafers,  Almond. — Mix  thoroughly 
equal  quantities  of  dry  flour  and  sifted 
sugar.  With  every  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  this  mixture  that  it  is  intended 
to  use  work  in  two  well-beaten  eggs, 

65 


Wafers,  Fruit 


CAKES 


Washington  Cake 


2^  ozs.  of  chopped  almonds  or  pis- 
tachio nuts,  a small  quantity  of  fresh 
yeast,  and  as  much  cream  as  will 
make  a thick  batter.  Let  the  mixt- 
ure settle,  and  bake  the  wafers  in  the 
usual  way. 

Wafers,  Fruit  (for  dessert). — Take 
any  kind  of  ripe,  well-flavored  fruit. 
Put  it  into  an  earthen  jar,  cover  close- 
ly, and  set  it  in  a pan  of  boiling  water. 
Keep  the  water  boiling  quickly  round 
it  till  the  juice  flows  freely  from  the 
fruit.  Strain  it  through  a jelly- 
bag,  and  with  each  pint  of  filtered 
juice  mix  i lb.  of  powdered  white 
sugar  and  the  white  of  an  egg.  Beat 
the  mixture  till  it  forms  a stiff  paste. 
Spread  it  in  a thin  layer  upon  but- 
tered paper,  and  bake  in  a gentle 
oven  till  it  is  dry  enough  to  leave  the 
paper.  Turn  it  upside  down,  and 
put  it  again  in  the  oven  until  it  is 
perfectly  dry.  Stamp  it  in  shapes, 
and  place  these  between  sheets  of 
white  paper  in  layers  in  a tin  box. 

Wafers  with  Jelly.  — Beat  % lb. 
of  fresh  butter  to  cream.  Add  x/2  lb. 
of  powdered  sugar,  two  eggs,  well 
beaten,  a quarter  of  a pint  of  milk, 
a table-spoonful  of  brandy,  a table- 
spoonful of  orange-flower  water,  half 
a nutmeg,  grated,  half  a teaspoonful 
of  powdered  cinnamon,  a quarter  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  saleratus  dissolved  in  a 
little  hot  water,  and  as  much  flour 
as  will  make  a very  thick,  smooth 
batter.  Beat  the  mixture  well.  But- 
ter a large  baking-sheet,  and  spread 
the  batter  upon  it  in  a layer  not  more 
than  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick. 
Bake  in  a moderately  heated  oven 
till  it  is  set.  Cut  it  in  halves ; spread 
a little  jelly  upon  one  half,  and  lay 
the  other  half  upon  it.  When  cold, 
cut  it  into  fingers  with  a sharp  knife. 
Pile  these  in  a glass  dish,  and  serve. 
Time  to  bake  the  batter,  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour. 

Waffles.  See  Bread. 

Walnut  Cake. — One  cupful  of  milk, 
three-quarters  of  a cupful  of  butter. 


two  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar,  three 
cupfuls  of  flour,  three  even  teaspoon- 
fuls of  baking-powder,  three  eggs,  not 
quite  a'cupful  of  broken-up  English 
walnuts.  Beat  butter  and  sugar  to- 
gether ; beat  the  milk  in  slowly ; beat 
separately  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the 
eggs ; sift  the  baking-powder  into  the 
flour;  add  all  together,  putting  the 
broken  nuts  in  after  the  batter  is  thor- 
oughly beaten  smooth.  Bake  in  low, 
square  pans.  Ice  both  cakes,  and  put 
one  cake  on  top  of  the  other.  Divide 
the  icing  into  squares  with  the  back 
of  a knife,  and  garnish  each  square 
with  half  a nut  laid  in  its  centre. 

Walnut  Cake,  English. — This  is 
very  ornamental  on  a table  if  the 
icing  is  skilfully  done.  Cream  thor- 
oughly two  cupfuls  of  sugar  and 
one  of  butter,  then  add*  five  eggs 
(yolks  and  whites  beaten  separately), 
two  - thirds  of  a cupful  of  milk,  and 
three  cupfuls  of  flour,  in  which  one 
teaspoonful  of  baking  - powder  has 
been  put  before  sifting.  Beat  the 
mixture  well,  and  just  before  putting 
it  into  the  pans  stir  in  two  teacupfuls 
of  the  kernels  of  English  walnuts 
broken  into  quarters.  Bake  in  square 
or  oblong  pans.  Spread  over  the  top 
a thick  layer  of  white  icing,  and  when 
it  begins  to  stiffen  draw  a sharp  knife 
from  end  to  end  in  lines  about  two 
inches  apart,  then  repeat  in  the  same 
way  across,  forming  squares,  in  the 
centre  of  which  should  be  placed  a 
half-kernel  of  the  walnut,  reserved  for 
the  purpose. 

Washington  Cake. — Two  cupfuls 
of  white  sugar,  one  cupful  of  butter, 
one  cupful  of  sweet  milk,  four  eggs. 
Beat  the  whites  and  yolks  separately, 
add  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  baking-powder.  Bake 
in  round,  flat,  tin  pans.  Peel  and 
grate  two  large  apples  and  the  rind 
of  a lemon,  add  also  the  strained 
juice  of  the  latter,  one  heaping  cupful 
of  white  sugar,  and  one  egg,  and  let  % 
it  boil  up  in  a stewpan.  Pour  it 
out,  and  when  quite  cool  spread  over 
the  cakes,  which  must  be  placed  one 


Wedding  Cake 


CAKES 


White  Spice  Cake 


over  the  other  in  layers,  just  as  in 
making  jelly  cake. 

Wedding  Cake. — One  pound  and  a 
half  of  flour,  i}4  lbs.  of  butter,  Y2  lb. 
of  candied  lemon,  Y2  lb.  of  candied 
orange,  Y2  lb.  of  candied  citron,  I lb. 
of  dried  cherries,  I Y2  lbs.  of  dried  cur- 
rants (if  the  cherries  cannot  be  easily 
procured,  they  may  be  omitted,  and 
2Y2  lbs.  of  currants  used  instead),  8 
ozs.  of  almonds,  eight  eggs,  the  rind 
of  four  oranges  or  of  two  lemons 
rubbed  upon  I Y2  lbs.  of  sugar,  Y2  oz. 
of  spices,  consisting  of  powdered  cin- 
namon, grated  nutmeg,  and  powdered 
cloves  in  equal  proportions,  a tea- 
spoonful of  salt,  and  a small  tumbler- 
ful of  brandy.  If  objected  to,  the 
brandy  may  be  omitted,  and  another 
egg  may  be  added.  Wash,  pick,  and 
dry  the  currants,  cut  the  cherries  into 
moderate-sized  pieces,  slice  the  can- 
died peel  into  thin  shreds,  blanch  and 
pound  the  almonds,  or  cut  them  into 
very  small  pieces,  and  .crush  the  fla- 
vored sugar  to  powder.  Put  the  butter 
into  a large  bowl,  and  beat  it  to  cream, 
either  with  a wooden  spoon  or  with 
the  hand.  Add  very  gradually  the 
sugar,  flour,  and  eggs,  and  when  they 
are  thoroughly  mixed  work  in  the 
rest  of  the  ingredients.  Put  them  in 
a little  at  a time,  and  beat  the  cake 
between  every  addition.  It  should  be 
beaten  fully  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
If  brown  sugar  is  used,  and  the  flour 
is  browned,  not  burned,  in  the  oven,  the 
cake  will  have  a darker  color.  Line 
a tin  hoop  with  double  folds  of  but- 
tered paper,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and 
place  it  on  a metal  baking-sheet  with 
twelve  folds  of  paper  under  it,  and 
four  or  five  on  the  top,  to  keep  it  from 
burning.  Put  it  in  a moderately 
heated  oven,  and  keep  the  oven  at 
an  even  temperature  until  it  is  done 
enough.  The  cake  ought  not  to  be 
iced  until  a short  time  before  it  is 
wanted,  as  it  may  get  dirty.  Time  to 
bake  the  cake,  about  six  hours. 

Another  way  : — One  pound  of  but- 
ter, 1 lb.  of  sugar,  1 lb.  of  eggs,  I lb. 
of  flour,  2 lbs.  of  raisins,  2 lbs.  of  cur- 
rants, 1 lb.  of  citron,  two  nutmegs. 


one  table-spoonful  of  ground  cloves, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  ground  cinna- 
mon, I tablespoonful  of  ground  all- 
spice, two-thirds  of  a teacupful  of  mo- 
lasses, and  one  tumblerful  of  wine. 
Mix  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a light 
cream,  then  add  one-half  of  the  raisins, 
stoned  and  chopped,  then  the  eggs,  the 
whites  and  yolks  beaten  separately. 
Warm  together  the  spices,  molasses, 
and  wine,  and  add  first  the  sifted 
flour,  and  lastly  the  remainder  of  the 
fruit,  mixing  the  whole  very  thor- 
oughly. Bake  in  a deep,  thick  pan 
in  a moderately  hot  oven  till  fully 
done. 

White-mountain  Cake. — Cream  un- 
til very  light  one  coffee-cupful  of  but- 
ter. Add  slowly,  stirring  all  the  time, 
two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  and  when  the 
mixture  is  light  add  one  coffee-cupful 
of  new  milk;  when  well  mixed,  the 
yolks  of  five  eggs.  Rub  thoroughly 
into  four  and  a half  cupfuls  of  sifted 
flour  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-pow- 
der, and  stir  in  the  butter,  alternating 
with  the  beaten  whites  of  three  of  the 
eggs,  reserving  the  other  two  for  the 
icing.  Either  bake  in  three  pans,  or 
six  round  jelly- plates ; in  the  latter 
case,  put  a chocolate  mixture  between 
the  layers  of  three  of  the  cakes,  and 
the  other  three  the  beaten  whites  of 
the  two  eggs,  adding  four  teaspoon- 
fuls of  flour.  On  top  of  each  layer 
of  cake  and  icing  put  grated  cocoanut 
an  inch  in  depth,  and  finish  with  it  at 
the  top.  The  desiccated  cocoanut  will 
answer,  but  the  freshly  grated  nut, 
partly  dried,  is  much  better. 

White  Spice  Cake. — Beat  together 
ten  eggs  and  1 lb.  and  1 oz.  of  sugar 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  then 
add  1 lb.  and  1 oz.  of  flour,  Y\  lb.  of 
coarsely  chopped  almonds,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls of  ground  cloves,  one  table- 
spoonful of  ground  cinnamon,  a little 
coarsely  chopped  candied  orange  and 
lemon  peel  (this  is  a matter  of  taste), 
one  teaspoonful  of  ground  cardamom 
seeds,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  arrack. 
Mix  all  these  ingredients  thoroughly, 
roll  the  dough  out  moderately  thick 


Wine-drops 


CANDY 


Candied  Fruits 


— about  the  consistency  of  cookies — 
put  half  an  almond  in  each  corner  of 
the  cakes,  lay  a strip  of  candied  lemon 
peel  in  the  centre,  let  them  stand  fif- 
teen minules,  and  bake  in  a mod- 
erately hot  oven. 

Wine-drops. — Two  cupfuls  of  brown 
sugar,  one  cupful  of  seeded  and  chop- 
ped raisins,  two-thirds  of  a cupful  of 
molasses,  two-thirds  of  a cupful  of  lard 
or  butter,  two-thirds  of  a cupful  of  sour 
milk  or  buttermilk,  two  eggs,  half  a 
cupful  of  currants,  one  table-spoonful 


of  powdered  cinnamon,  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  powdered  cloves,  one  table- 
spoonful of  allspice,  one  level  tea- 
spoonful of  soda,  flour  enough  to  make 
a batter  to  drop  nicely  from  the  spoon 
into  the  cakes.  Cream  the  sugar  and 
butter,  then  add  the  eggs,  unseparated, 
the  spices,  molasses,  and  milk  ; sift  the 
soda  with  one  cupful  of  the  flour  and 
add  to  the  mixture,  then  flour  the  fruit 
and  beat  in  with  the  remainder  of  the 
flour ; drop  four  inches  apart,  and  bake 
in  quick  oven.  When  done,  dust  with 
pulverized  sugar. 


Calfs  Brains,  Fried.  See  Veal. 
..  ..  Cutlets 

Calf’s  Foot,  Baked,  etc.  See  Veal. 

Calfs-foot  Jelly.  See  Jellies. 

CalFs  Head,  Vinaigrette. 

See  Veal. 

..  ..  Baked. 

..  ..  Scalloped. 

M ..  Soup.  See  Soups. 


Ca 

There  are  four  well-marked  stages 
of  boiling  sugar:  i,  the  "thread” 
stage,  at  about  2150 ; 2,  the  " ball  ” 
or  "fondant”  stage,  at  2350  to  2450; 
3,  the  " glace  ” stage,  at  about  300°  ; 
and,  4,  the  caramel  stage,  at  about 
350°. 

Fondant. — This  is  the  basis  of  all 
French  cream  candies,  and  can  be 
used  for  icing  cakes.  Stir  one  cupful 
of  sugar  and  a half-cupful  of  water 
over  the  fire  until  the  sugar  dissolves. 
While  boiling,  wipe  away  any  crystals 
forming  on  the  edge  of  the  saucepan 
with  a wet  cloth,  taking  care  not  to 
touch  the  boiling  sugar.  Allow  it  to 
boil  till  it  spins  a thread.  This  is 
the  first  stage.  The  best  way  to  test 
it  is  to  hold  a bowl  containing  ice- 
water  in  one  hand.  Dip  two  fingers. 


Calfs  Liver  and  Bacon. 

See  Veal. 

..  ..  Bourgeois. 

.«  ..  Broiled. 

..  ..  Minced.  4 

..  ..  Saute.  .0 

Calf’s  Tongue.  See  Veal. 

Canapes.  See  Sandwiches. 

Candied  Fruits.  See  Candy. 


N D Y 

or  a small  stick,  into  the  water,  then 
into  the  boiling  mixture. 

When  you  can  roll  what  is  on  your 
fingers  into  a soft  ball,  the  fondant  is 
done.  Turn  it  on  to  a plate,  very 
lightly  greased  with  .salad  oil,  or, 
preferably,  on  a marble  slab,  and 
when  cool  stir  it  until  it  becomes  a 
smooth,  creamy  white  paste.  Should 
the  fondant  become  grained,  put  it 
back  into  the  saucepan  with  a table- 
spoonful of  water  and  begin  again. 
If  allowed  to  pass  the  thread-spin- 
ning stage  through  too  great  a heat, 
it  will  become  hard  and  crisp,  and, 
if  still  hotter,  it  passes  into  the 
caramel  stage.  While  French  can- 
dies and  bon-bons  can  be  made  at 
home  in  perfection,  there  are  many 
simpler  varieties  quite  as  satisfac- 


Chocolate  Caramels 


CANDY 


Cream  Chocolates 


tory,  and  in  many  cases  more  whole- 
some. 

Chocolate  Caramels.  — Mix  to- 
gether in  a large  agate-ware  pot  I lb. 
of  light-brown  sugar,  4 ozs.  of  grated 
chocolate  (unsweetened),  one  gill  of 
molasses,  one  gill  of  cream,  and  4 
ozs.  of  butter.  Place  over  a slow 
fire  and  stir  until  thoroughly  melted 
and  mixed.  Do  not  stir  again.  Let 
it  boil  slowly  until  it  has  reached  the 
crack  degree,  which  can  be  determined 
as  follows  : Dip  a small  stick  into 
the  boiling  candy,  and  then  put  it 
into  a bowl  with  water  and  ice.  It 
is  important  to  have  ice  in  the  water. 
If  the  candy  breaks  between  the 
fingers  with  a sharp,  cracking  noise, 
it  is  finished.  Always  make  your 
test  with  the  fingers  under  the  water, 
and  after  the  candy  has  been  in  the 
water  a full  half -minute.  Before 
lifting  from  the  fire  pour  in  a table- 
spoonful of  vanilla  extract.  Then 
lift  and  pour  the  candy  into  a thor- 
oughly greased  (use  butter),  shallow 
pan,  and  allow  to  cool.  When  cool,  cut 
into  squares.  Never  make  in  damp 
or  rainy  weather. 

Chocolate  Creams. — Take  two  cup- 
fuls of  granulated  sugar  and  half  a 
cupful  of  cream.  Boil  for  five  min- 
utes from  the  time  that  it  begins  to 
boil  hard,  not  from  the  time  that  it  is 
set  on  the  stove.  After  taking  it 
from  the  fire  set  in  cold  water,  stir- 
ring until  it  is  stiff.  Flavor  as  soon 
as  it  is  removed  from  the  stove  with 
a teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  When  the 
mixture  has  stiffened  drop  it  with  a 
spoon  on  waxed  paper,  and,  as  soon  as 
it  is  cool  enough,  mould  into  balls. 
Have  a cake  of  chocolate  in  a small 
tin  pan,  set  it  in  boiling  water,  and 
let  it  dissolve.  Then  take  the  balls 
and  roll  in  the  melted  chocolate,  lift 
them  out  with  a wire  fork,  and  lay 
them  on  the  waxed  paper  to  harden. 

Cocoanut  Caramels. — Put  3 lbs.  of 
granulated  sugar  with  a table-spoon- 
ful of  butter,  a cupful  of  milk,  and 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  extract  of  lemon 


in  a kettle.  Set  over  the  fire  and  stir 
until  dissolved  ; add  one  grated  cocoa- 
nut,  boil  until  stiff,  pour  into  buttered 
tins,  let  stand  a few  minutes,  mark 
off  into  tiny  squares,  let  cool,  and 
break  apart.  For  a variety  the  cocoa- 
nut  may  be  omitted,  and  the  caramels 
flavored  with  vanilla,  lemon,  or  pine- 
apple. All  caramels  are  better  when 
freshly  made. 

Cocoanut  Cream-bars. — Boil  3 lbs. 
of  granulated  sugar,  a teacupful  of 
water,  and  half  a teaspoonful  of 
cream  of  tartar  together  until  thick ; 
flavor ; take  from  the  fire,  let  cool 
slighty  in  the  kettle,  then  with  a 
large  wooden  spoon  rub  and  scrape 
the  mixture  against  the  sides  of  the 
kettle  until  it  looks  creamy.  Add  a 
large,  grated  cocoanut,  mix  well,  but 
do  not  let  stand  too  long.  Pour  into 
wide,  shallow  tins  covered  with  but- 
tered paper.  When  cold,  lift  the  paper 
out,  cut  the  candy  into  bars,  and 
stand  aside  a day  or  two  before  using. 

Chocolate,  or  any  nuts  desired, 
may  be  used  in  place  of  the  cocoanut. 

Cream  Candy.  — Put  four  cups  of 
granulated  sugar  with  two  of  water 
and  one  of  thick  cream  in  a kettle; 
stir  until  the  sugar  dissolves;  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  butter  and  a pinch 
of  soda.  Let  boil  until  it  is  brittle. 
Flavor  with  vanilla.  Pour  into  but- 
tered plates,  and  cool  quickly.  Take 
up,  and  pull  rapidly  and  evenly 
until  the  mass  becomes  soft  and 
smooth  to  the  touch.  Draw  out  into 
flat  sticks,  and  let  stand  in  a dry 
place  until  creamy,  then  drop  in  wax 
or  buttered  papers,  and  put  away 
in  an  air-tight  box. 

Cream  Chocolates  (made  without 
boiling). — Put  the  white  of  one  egg 
and  an  equal  quantity  of  cold  water 
into  a bowl,  flavor  with  vanilla,  and 
beat  until  frothy ; sift  in  sufficient 
confectioner’s  XXX  sugar  to  make 
a stiff  paste,  work  all  together  until 
smooth,  form  into  small  balls,  lay 
on  grooved  paper,  and  set  in  a cool, 
dry  place  for  two  or  three  hours. 


Cream  Dates 


CANDY 


Horehound,  Candied 


Put  /4  lb.  of  chocolate  into  a small 
tin  sauce-pan,  and  set  in  warm  water 
to  melt.  Put  one  ball  at  a time  on 
the  end  of  a fork,  dip  into  the  melted 
chocolate  until  well  covered,  drain, 
and  slip  on  to  greased  paper.  Stand  in 
a cool  place  overnight. 

Cream  Dates. — Remove  the  stones 
from  dates,  make  the  cream  as  in 
cream  chocolates,  without  boiling, 
roll  into  oblong  shape,  put  into  the 
date  where  the  stone  was  removed, 
press  the  two  halves  together,  roll 
the  whole  in  granulated  sugar,  and 
set  away. 

Cream  Walnut.  — Take  large  wal- 
nut meats  from  the  shells ; make  the 
cream  as  in  chocolate  creams,  with- 
out boiling,  into  small,  round  cakes, 
press  the  meats  into  the  sides,  and 
roll  in  granulated  sugar. 

Crystallized  Fruits. — Boil  two  cups 
of  granulated  sugar  with  two-thirds 
of  a cup  of  water.  Let  it  boil  until 
it  will  thread  in  drops  from  the  spoon 
or  harden  in  cold  water.  Then  dip 
once  or  twice,  as  may  be  neces- 
sary, into  the  syrup  white  grapes, 
sections  of  orange,  dates,  cherries, 
or  fruits  of  any  kind.  Put  them 
on  waxed  paper,  and  set  away  to 
harden. 

Crystallized  Oranges. — Peel  and 
quarter  the  oranges,  make  a syrup 
of  i lb.  of  sugar  to  one  pint  of  water ; 
let  this  boil  until  it  is  like  candy 
around  the  edge  of  the  dish,  then  dip 
the  oranges  in  this  and  let  them  drain  ; 
keep  them  where  it  is  warm,  and  the 
candied  syrup  will  become  crystal- 
lized. 

English  Walnuts. — Take  the  half- 
nuts carefully  from  the  shells,  in 
order  not  to  break  them  ; make  cream 
candy  according  to  the  directions 
given  for  the  chocolate  creams,  with- 
out boiling,  and  press  half  a nut  on 
each  side  of  the  balls  of  candy  while 
they  are  soft,  pressing  them  so  as  to 
flatten  the  cream. 


Fig  Paste. — Chop  into  bits  and  boil 
I lb.  of  figs ; when  soft,  strain  and 
press  through  a sieve;  return  to  the 
water  in  which  they  were  boiled,  and 
which  should  be  reduced  to  one  cup- 
ful ; stir  in  3 lbs.  of  granulated  sugar, 
and  cook  down  slowly  until  a thick 
paste  is  formed.  Pour  in  pans  lined 
with  paper ; let  cool ; take  out  on  the 
paper,  and  cut  into  sections.  Dust 
with  powdered  sugar. 

French  Candy.  — Take  the  white 
of  an  egg  and  an  equal  quantity  of 
lemon  or  orange  juice.  Mix  well 
together,  and  add  confectioner’s  sugar 
until  the  whole  is  stiff  enough  to  roll 
into  balls. 

Fruit,  To  Candy. — Make  a syrup 
with  1 lb.  of  sugar  and  half  a tea- 
cupful of  water.  When  boiling  has 
nearly  reached  the  caramel  stage, 
put  in  any  preserved  fruits,  and  stir 
gently  until  they  get  crystallized ; 
then  take  them  out,  and  dry  them 
in  an  oven  or  before  the  fire,  but  do 
not  let  them  get  colored. 

Fudge.  — Put  in  a porcelain -lined 
saucepan  two  cups  of  granulated 
sugar,  four  sections  of  unsweetened 
chocolate  (broken  into  bits),  two 
heaping  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  and 
one  cup  of  milk.  Cook  all  together, 
stirring  constantly  to  prevent  burn- 
ing, for  twenty  minutes.  At  the 
end  of  that  time  dip  out  a little  of  the 
mixture  and  try  it  by  putting  it  on  a 
cold  plate.  If  it  is  done  it  will  form 
a soft  yet  friable  paste.  Flavor  the 
contents  of  the  saucepan  with  vanilla, 
beat  hard  for  a few  minutes,  and  turn 
the  fudge  into  greased  candy- pans. 
Cut  into  squares  while  warm. 

Horehound,  Candied. — Boil  hore- 
hound in  water  until  the  juice  is  all 
extracted.  Take  your  sugar  and 
boil  up  to  a syrup,  then  add  the  hoie~ 
hound-juice  to  the  syrup;  boil  up 
again,  stir  with  a spoon  against  the 
sides  of  the  sugar  - pan.  When  it 
begins  to  grow  thick,  pour  out  in  a 
paper  case  dusted  with  fine  sugar. 


70 


Lemon-drops 


CANDY 


Nut  Bars 


and  cut  in  squares.  The  horehound 
may  be  dried,  and  then  put  in  the 
sugar,  finely  powdered  and  sifted. 

Lemon  - drops. — Strain  the  juice  of 
three  or  four  large  lemons  into  a 
bowl,  then  mix  powdered  loaf  sugar 
with  it  until  it  is  quite  thick.  Put 
it  into  a pan,  and  let  it  boil  for  five 
minutes,  stirring  it  constantly.  Drop 
it  from  the  end  of  a spoon  upon  writ- 
ing-paper, and,  when  cold,  keep  the 
drops  in  tin  canisters  until  wanted 
for  use.  Or  take  2 ozs.  of  powdered 
loaf  sugar,  mix  with  them  the  grated 
rind  of  three  large  lemons  and  half 
a teaspoonful  of  fine  flour.  Whisk 
the  white  of  an  egg  thoroughly. 
Work  it  up  with  the  other  ingre- 
dients to  a light  paste,  then  place  it  in 
drops  upon  a sheet  of  writing-paper, 
and  dry  before  the  fire  until  the  drops 
are  quite  hard.  Time,  half  an  hour 
to  prepare. 

Maple  - balls. — Cook,  without  stir- 
ring, two  cups  of  grated  or  fine  maple 
sugar  and  one  cup  of  water.  When 
it  reaches  the  hard-ball  stage,  add  one 
heaping  table-spoonful  of  good  butter. 
Remove  from  the  fire  and  beat  until 
creamy.  When  cold  enough  to  han- 
dle make  into  balls,  and  put  half  of 
an  English  walnut  or  hickory-nut  on 
each  side. 

Maple  Caramels.  — Make  a rich 
maple  syrup  by  boiling  maple  sugar 
with  a little  water.  To  three  cups  of 
this  syrup  add  two  cups  of  light-brown 
sugar,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  glucose, 
and  one-half  cup  of  boiling  water.  Stir 
all  together,  then  boil  until  it  reaches 
the  caramel  stage.  Now  add  a cup 
of  rich,  sweet  cream,  and  half  a cup 
of  butter,  and  let  it  boil  until  it  will 
snap  when  dropped  into  iced  water. 
Keep  stirring  it  all  the  time.  When 
done,  remove  from  the  fire  and  pour 
into  a buttered,  shallow  pan  to  cool. 
As  soon  as  cold,  cut  it  into  blocks 
and  wrap  each  in  paraffine  paper. 

Maple  Creams. — Mix  2 lbs.  maple 
sugar,  one-quarter  teaspoonful  cream 


of  tartar,  and  a cup  of  water.  Boil  in 
a granite  or  porcelain  kettle  until  the 
soft -ball  stage  is  reached.  To  test, 
drop  a little  of  the  syrup  into  iced 
water  and  immediately  roll  it  between 
the  thumb  and  finger,  and  if  it  will 
readily  form  into  a soft  ball  it  is  cook- 
ed enough.  Set  it  away  in  the  kettle 
until  it  is  almost  cold,  then  beat  until 
creamy;  then  pour  into  a shallow, 
buttered  tin  pan.  When  perfectly 
cold,  turn  the  pan  upside  down  and 
the  cream  will  drop  out.  Cut  into 
small  squares  with  a sharp  knife. 

Maple  Taffy. — Boil  together  2 lbs. 
of  maple  sugar,  1 lb.  of  light-brown 
sugar,  Yz  lb.  of  glucose,  and  a pint  of 
water.  When  the  taffy  reaches  the 
caramel  stage  pour  it  into  a buttered 
dish  to  cool.  When  cool,  pull  until 
white. 

Marsh-mallows. — Dissolve  by  heat- 
ing over  a slow  fire  8 ozs.  of  gum- 
arabic  in  three  gills  of  water,  stir, 
and  strain.  Boil  1 oz.  of  marsh- 
mallow roots  in  a little  water  for  half 
an  hour,  strain,  and  boil  low ; add  the 
gum  solution  with  Y*  lb.  of  loaf- 
sugar  or  powdered  sugar;  let  cook 
slowly,  and  stir  constantly  until  it 
becomes  a thick  paste  which  will  roll 
between  the  fingers ; add  the  well- 
beaten  whites  of  two  eggs,  stir  for  a 
minute  or  two,  and  pour  into  a pan 
or  box  to  cool.  In  the  bottom  of  the 
box  or  pan.  sheets  of  white  paper 
should  be  placed,  with  the  ends  pro- 
jecting from  the  sides  by  which  to  lift 
out  the  paste,  when  it  may  be  cut  in  lit- 
tle blocks  and  rolled  in  powdered  sugar. 

Molasses  Candy. — Half  a pound  of 
brown  sugar , % lb.  of  butter,  one  quart 
of  molasses ; boil  until  it  will  crack 
when  dropped  into  cold  water.  Add, 
if  you  like,  1 lb.  of  shelled  walnuts  or 
blanched  peanuts,  just  as  the  kettle 
is  lifted  from  the  fire.  Spread  on 
dishes  and  cut  into  squares,  or  pull 
and  plait,  as  you  choose. 

Nut  Bars.  — Peanuts,  almonds, 
English  walnuts,  or  pecans  may  be 
71 


Old-fashioned  Butter-scotch  CANDY 


used  for  this  candy.  Prepare  the 
nuts  by  removing  the  inner  covering 
and  chopping  them.  Grease  the  bot- 
tom and  sides  of  a broad,  shallow 
tin  pan  with  fresh  butter,  and  put 
the  nuts  into  it,  spreading  them  even- 
ly. Put  I lb.  of  granulated  sugar, 
with  half  a teacup  of  water  and  a 
pinch  of  cream  of  tartar,  into  a kettle, 
and  boil  until  thick,  but  not  too  brittle. 
Pour  the  syrup  over  the  nuts  and  set 
aside  to  cool.  When  slightly  stiff, 
mark  off  into  wide  bars  with  a sharp 
knife,  and  let  stand  several  days, 
when  it  will  become  soft  and  deli- 
cious. 

Old-fashioned  Butter-scotch. — Put 

3 lbs.  of  yellow  sugar  in  a kettle, 
with  % lb.  of  butter.  Set  over  the 
fire  to  melt ; let  boil  until  thick,  stirring 
all  the  while  to  prevent  scorching. 
Take  from  the  fire  ; pour  into  buttered 
tins  or  trays.  When  stiff,  mark  off 
into  squares.  When  cold,  break 
apart,  and  wrap  each  square  in  wax 
paper.  This  candy  will  keep  a long 
time,  and  improve  with  age. 

Oranges,  Candied. — Take  seven  or 
eight  good-sized  oranges,  peel  care- 
fully, divide  into  quarters,  and  set 
aside.  Next  boil  together  three  cup- 
fuls of  sugar  and  one  of  water  to  a 
syrup ; add  the  juice  of  one  lemon 
when  sufficiently  cooked ; then  take 
up  each  section  of  orange  separately 
with  a fine  knitting-needle  and  dig 
into  the  syrup ; set  aside  on  a large 
dish  to  cool  and  harden.  Should 
the  syrup  get  cold  before  all  are  done, 
it  may  be  set  over  the  fire  again  for  a 
few  moments. 

Orange-peel,  Candied.  — Cut  the 
peelings  into  thin  strips,  and  soak 
in  salted  water  for  twenty-four  hours, 
then  wash  in  many  fresh  waters, 
until  no  trace  of  a saline  flavor  re- 
mains. Cover  the  orange-peel  with 
cold  water,  and  bring  slow_y  to  a 
boil,  then  stew  until  tender.  Prom 
fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  will  usually 
suffice.  To  every  pint  of  the  stewed 
rind  add  I lb.  of  granidated  sugar. 


Taffy 


Put  on  the  range  with  the  water  in 
which  the  peel  was  boiled,  and  stew 
all  together  until  the  syrup  is  thick. 
Take  out  a piece  of  the  rind,  and  if, 
as  it  cools,  the  syrup  candies  on  it, 
it  is  done.  Turn  into  a colander, 
drain  off  the  sj’rup,  and  spread  the 
candied  peel  on  plates  to  dry.  While 
the  process  of  stewing  is  going  on, 
much  care  must  be  exercised  to  pre- 
vent the  contents  of  the  saucepan 
from  burning. 

Peanut  Candy. — Remove  the  shells 
and  skins  from  roasted  nuts,-  putting 
them  an  inch  thick  in  a buttered  tin 
pan,  and  pouring  over  them  sufficient 
sugar  boiled  to  a caramel  point  to  hold 
the  nuts  together,  but  not  to  cover 
them ; directly  after  the  sugar  has 
reached  that  degree  of  boiling  it  begins 
to  burn ; at  this  moment  ^the  sugar- 
boiler  must  be  taken  from  the  fire,  set 
at  once  into  a pan  of  cold  water  to 
check  the  boiling,  and  the  caramel 
poured  over  the  nuts. 

Pop  - corn  Candy. — Put  two  cups 
of  sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
and  a cup  of  water  in  a kettle  to  boil 
until  the  syrup  threads.  Mix  in 
four  quarts  of  popped  corn,  stir,  take 
from  the  fire,  and  stir  until  cool ; make 
into  balls,  or  little,  flat  cakes. 

Stick  Candy. — Put  3 lbs.  of  granu- 
lated sugar  in  a kettle  with  two  tea- 
cups of  water  and  a teaspoonful  of 
cream  of  tartar  dissolved  in  a little 
warm  water.  Stir  over  the  fire  until 
the  sugar  is  dissolved ; cover  the  kettle 
while  the  syrup  is  boiling.  Skim 
carefully.  VV  hen  a few  drops  will 
harden  in  cold  water,  take  the  candy 
from  the  fire ; add  the  flavoring  and 
coloring ; pour  out  into  well-buttered 
plates.  When  cool,  pull  and  make 
into  sticks.  If  clear  candy  is  desired, 
pour  in  the  plates  when  nearly  cold, 
mark  it  off  into  squares  or  flat  sticks, 
which,  when  cold,  can  be  broken 
apart. 

Taffy. — Put  2 lbs.  of  brown  sugar, 
with  half  a cup  of  water,  in  a candy- 
72 


Canned  Fruits 


CAULIFLOWER  Charlotte  Russe 


keitle  to  boil ; add  4 ozs.  of  butter. 
Boil  until  thick  (not  hard) ; flavor 
with  lemon;  take  from  the  fire  : pour 
into  well  - buttered  tins,  about  the 
eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  When 


cool,  mark  off  into  squares ; press 
nearly  through  to  the  bottom.  When 
hard  and  cold,  tap  the  bottom  and 
sides  of  the  tin  to  loosen  the  candy, 
turn  out,  and  break  apart. 


Canned  Fruits.  See  Preserves. 

Canned  Roast  Beef  Soup. 

See  Soups. 

Canvas-back  Duck.  See  Game. 

Capers. — The  bottle  in  which  capers 
are  should  be  kept  corked  and  covered 
with  the  liquor  or  they  will  spoil.  In 
making  sauce  the  flavor  cannot  be  fully 
extracted  unless  the  capers  are  bruised. 

Caper  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Caramel.  — Sugar  heated  to  the 
highest  stage  until  it  is  browned. 
See  Candy. 

Caramel  Ice-cream.  See  Ice-cream. 

Carp.  See  Fish. 

Carrots. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  carrots  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Carrots  a la  Frangaise.  See  Vegetables 
Fried. 

German  way. 

..  Red,  Puree  of. 

..  Puree.  See  Soups. 

Catfish,  See  Fish. 

Catsups.  See  Pickles. 

Cauliflower. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  cauliflower  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Cauliflower,  Boiled.  See  Vegetables. 

..  Fried. 

..  Pain  of. 

with  Parmesan 
Cheese. 

..  Pickle.  See  Pickles. 

..  Salad.  See  Salads. 


Caviare  Sandwiches. 

See  Sandwiches. 

Caviare  Canapes. 

See  Sandwiches. 

Cayenne  Cheese.  See  Cheese. 

Celery. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  celery  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Celery  and  Hazel-nuts. 

See  Vegetables. 

..  Fried. 

..  Puree  of. 

Roots  & la  Poulette.  .. 

..  Stewed. 

..  and  Apple  Salad.  See  Salads. 

..  and  Radish  Salad.  .. 

Sandwiches.  See  Sandwiches. 

..  Canapes. 

Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

..  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Cereals.  See  Porridge,  Gruel,  Bread. 

Chafing-dish  Cookery. — Chafing- 
dishes  with  a double  pan  are  pref- 
erable. See  Preface. 

Champagne  Cup.  See  Beverages. 

Chaney’s  Thin  Biscuits.  See  Bread. 

Charlotte  Russe  made  without 
Gelatine.  — Line  a jelly-mould  with 
split  lady  fingers  or  slices  of  sponge 
cake.  Whip  a pint  of  thick  cream. 
Beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a stiff 
meringue,  stirring  in  gradually  a 
cupful  of  powdered  sugar.  Beat  this, 
a little  at  a time,  into  the  whipped 
cream,  then  adu  a generous  tea- 
spoonful of  extract  of  vanilla  or  other 
flavoring.  Pour  this  mixture  into 
the  cake-lined  mould  and  set  on  the 
ice  for  two  hours.  Pass  a knife 


73 


Charlotte  Russe,  Coffee  CHEESE 


Cheese  Canapes 


around  the  sides  of  the  mould  to 
loosen  the  cake,  and  turn  the  char- 
lotte russe  out  upon  a chilled  platter. 

Charlotte  Russe,  Coffee. — Prepare 
a charlotte  russe  filling  by  adding 
to  a pint  of  cream  whipped  stiff  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar 
and  quarter  of  a box  of  gelatine  which 
has  been  soaked  one  hour  in  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water  and 
dissolved  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
boiling  water.  Td  this  mixture  put 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  very  strong- 
est coffee  that  can  be  made.  It  should 
really  be  the  very  essence  of  the  berry. 
Beat  in  the  gelatine  slowly,  with  care 
not  to  break  down  the  cream.  Line 
a brick-shaped  mould  with  slices  of 
angel  cake,  sponge  cake,  or  lady 
fingers,  and  when  the  filling  begins 
to  thicken  turn  it  into  the  mould. 
Leave  it  in  a very  cold  place  until 
wanted.  If  possible,  it  is  well  to 
make  it  the  day  before  it  is  to  be 
eaten.  Instead  of  coffee,  any  other 
desired  flavoring  will  answer. 

Charlotte  Russe,  Paris.  — Split  a 
dozen  lady  fingers ; arrange  them 
around  the  sides  of  a charlotte-mould. 
Cover  the  bottom  with  candied  cherries 


and  strawberries.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
four  eggs  slightly,  and  mix  in  half  a 
pint  of  milk.  Pour  in  a double  boiler 
and  stir  until  thick.  Dissolve  a 
table-spoonful  of  gelatine  in  a little 
water,  and  strain  into  the  custard. 
When  cool,  add  a teacupful  of  thick 
cream,  half  a teacupful  of  sugar,  and 
a teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Mix  well; 
pour  into  the  mould.  Set  on  ice  ; when 
firm,  turn  out  carefully  and  serve. 

Charlotte  Russe,  Strawberry,  is 

made  of  eight  lad}^  fingers,  one  quart 
of  berries,  half  a pint  of  cream,  and 
two  cupfuls  of  sugar.  Split  the  lady 
fingers  and  line  a dish  with  them. 
Place  in  the  bottom  of  the  dish  a layer 
of  berries  and  sift  over  them  some 
powdered  sugar ; whip  cream  to  a 
stiff  froth  and  add  a layer  of  it,  then 
another  of  fruit  and  sugar,  ajid  so  on 
until  all  the  fruit  and  cream  are  used. 
Place  on  ice.  Serve  cold.  Any  other 
berries  or  fruits  can  be  used. 

Charlotte  of  Apples.  See  Fruits. 

Chartreuse. — A name  given  to  dish- 
es where  one  element  is  hidden  by 
the  use  of  one  or  two  others.  Also 
name  of  a well-known  liqueur. 


CHEESE 


Cheese  Balls,  Fried. — Cheese  which 
has  become  a little  dry  will  answer 
for  this  purpose,  though,  of  course, 
fresh  cheese  will  be  better.  Put 
3 ozs.  of  cheese  in  a mortar,  with 
a dessert-spoonful  of  finely  minced 
ham,  three  dessert-spoonfuls  of  finely 
grated  bread-crumbs,  a teaspoonful  of 
dry  mustard,  a piece  of  butter  about 
the  size  of  a small  egg,  two  or  three 
grains  of  cayenne,  and  the  yolk  of 
an  egg  well  beaten.  Pound  these 
ingredients  together  until  they  are 
perfectly  smooth,  then  form  the  paste 
into  bails  about  the  size  of  a walnut, 
flatten  to  a thickness  of  half  an  inch, 
dip  them  in  batter,  and  fry  them 


until  lightly  browned,  and  drain. 
Place  them  on  a napkin,  and  serve 
as  hot  as  possible.  Time  to  fry, 
two  or  three  minutes. 

Cheese  Canapes. — Cut  a stale  loaf 
into  slices  about  a quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  Divide  these  into  pieces  about 
two  inches  long  and  one  inch  wide, 
and  fry  them  in  hot  butter  or  oil  till 
they  are  a bright  golden  color.  Spread 
a little  thin  mustard  on  each  of  these 
pieces,  lay  over  that  some  good  cheese, 
and  put  them  in  a quick  oven  till  the 
cheese  is  dissolved.  Serve  as  hot 
as  possible.  Time,  altogether,  about 
half  an  hour. 


74 


Cheese,  Cayenne 


CHEESE 


Cheese  Fondue 


Cheese,  Cayenne.  — Take  % lb. 
each  of  flour,  butter,  and  grated 
cheese.  Mix  them  thoroughly,  and 
add  a pinch  of  salt  and  cayenne 
pepper  to  taste.  Mix  with  yolk  of 
egg  and  water  to  a smooth,  stiff 
paste;  roll  this  out  to  the  thickness 
of  half  an  inch,  then  cut  it  into  pieces 
about  three  inches  long  and  one  inch 
wide.  Bake  these  until  they  are 
lightly  browned,  and  serve  them  as 
hot  as  possible.  Time  to  bake  the 
fingers,  five  to  ten  minutes. 

Cheese  Charlottes. — Mash  smooth 
half  a cream -cheese  with  one  table- 
spoonful of  Roquefort  crumbs,  using 
enough  sweet  cream  to  make  it  soft. 
Add  one  cupful  of  sweet  cream,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  dissolved  gelatine, 
and  salt  and  cayenne  to  taste.  Fill 
twelve  Swedish  timbale  - cases  with 
this  mixture.  Sprinkle  over  with 
Parmesan,  and  put  in  a cold  place. 

Cheese,  Cottage. — Take  a pail  of 
new,  rich  milk,  put  it  in  a kettle  and 
let  it  scald  (be  careful  that  it  does  not 
boil,  or  the  curd  would  become  hard 
and  tough),  then  strain  through  a 
thin  cotton  bag,  allowing  it  to  hang 
and  drain  all  night.  In  the  morning 
add  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  a small 
piece  of  butter,  and  sweet  cream. 
Serve  with  cream  in  addition,  or  make 
up  into  rolls  or  cakes. 

Cheese,  Cottage,  seasoned  with 
paprika,  butter,  and  chives  makes  a 
nice  relish  with  cold  roast  beef. 

Cheese,  Cream.  — Take  some  thick 
cream  and  tie  it  in  a wet  cloth.  Stir 
a teaspoonful  of  salt  into  every  pint 
of  cream.  Hang  it  in  a cool,  airy 
place  for  three  or  four  days  to  drain, 
then  turn  it  into  a clean  cloth,  which 
must  be  put  into  a mould  and  under 
a weight  for  about  twenty-four  hours 
longer,  when  it  will  be  fit  for  use. 

Cheese,  Cream,  with  English  Wal- 
nuts.— Cover  a layer  of  cream-cheese, 
that  has  been  sprinkled  with  pow- 
dered sugar,  with  sliced  English  wal- 


nuts, alternating  the  layers,  and  tak- 
ing care  that  the  nuts  form  the  top 
layer.  Serve  very  cold. 

Cheese  Cutlets.  — Melt  one  table- 
spoonful of  butter  in  a saucepan, 
stir  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  corn- 
starch and  a dash  of  paprika,  add 
gradually  one  cup  of  hot,  thin  cream, 
stirring  constantly.  When  thick  and 
smooth,  stir  in  four  heaped  table- 
spoonfuls of  grated  cheese  (sage, 
Parmesan,  or  sap  sago) ; when  melted, 
add  one  cup  of  any  mild  cream-cheese, 
cut  into  bits.  Mix  quickly  and  turn 
into  a buttered  pan  or  into  cutlet- 
moulds.  When  cold,  cut  into  small 
triangles  (if  cooled  in  the  pan),  turn 
out  and  cover  with  fine  bread-crumbs, 
beaten  egg,  and  another  coating  of 
crumbs ; then  cook  one  minute  in  deep, 
smoking -hot  fat.  Drain  and  serve 
quickly  as  a course  for  luncheon. 

Cheese  Fondue.  — Melt  i oz.  of 
butter  in  a saucepan,  mix  smoothly 
with  it  I oz.  of  flour,  a pinch  of  salt 
and  cayenne,  and  a quarter  of  a pint 
of  milk ; simmer  the  mixture  gently 
over  the  fire,  stirring  it  all  the  time, 
till  it  is  as  thick  as  melted  butter ; 
stir  into  it  about  3 ozs.  of  finely 
grated,  good  cheese.  Turn  it  into  a 
bowl,  and  mix  with  it  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  well  beaten.  Whisk  three 
whites  to  a solid  froth  and  stir  them 
into  it,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  a 
souffle  dish  or  small,  round  tin.  It 
should  be  only  half  filled,  as  the  fondue 
will  rise  very  high.  Pin  a napkin 
round  the  dish  in  which  it  is  baked, 
and  serve  it  the  moment  it  is  taken 
out  of  the  oven,  as,  if  it  is  allowed  to 
fall,  its  beauty  will  be  entirely  gone. 
On  this  account  it  is  better  to  have  a 
metal  cover  over  it,  strongly  heated. 
Time,  twenty  minutes. 

Another  way  : — Melt  one  table- 
spoonful of  butter  in  a chafing-dish 
over  hot  water.  When  hot,  add  one 
cupful  of  milk,  one  cupful  of  fine 
bread-crumbs,  two  cupfuls  of  grated 
cheese,  a little  salt,  mustard,  and 
cayenne.  Stir  until  the  cheese  is 
melted,  then  add  two  beaten  eggs. 


75 


Cheese  with  Macaroni 


CHEESE 


Cheese,  Potted 


stirring  until  the  mixture  is  thick. 
Time,  two  or  three  minutes.  Serve 
at  once. 

Cheese  with  Macaroni. — Drop  %lb. 
of  macaroni  in  some  boiling  milk  and 
water,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  until 
it  is  quite  tender  but  firm.  Put  4 ozs. 
of  grated  cheese  in  a cupful  of  boiled 
cream  or  new  milk,  and  place  the 
mixture  in  a saucepan  with  a blade 
of  mace,  three  or  four  grains  of  cay- 
enne, a piece  of  butter,  and  a little 
salt.  The  cheese  must  be  quite  free 
from  rind,  and  should  be  stirred  con- 
stantly until  it  is  quite  melted;  and 
we  would  recommend  a mixture  of 
cheeses,  as  Parmesan,  if  used  by 
itself,  soon  gets  lumpy.  When  it  is 
dissolved,  add  the  boiled  macaroni 
to  it,  first  putting  it  in  a sieve  for  two 
or  three  minutes  to  drain.  Let  it 
simmer  for  a few  minutes  longer, 
then  put  it  into  a dish,  strew  over  it 
some  finely  grated  bread  - crumbs, 
and  brown  in  a hot  oven,  or  with  a 
salamander.  Good  white  sauce  may 
be  substituted  for  the  cream.  Time, 
one  hour  and  a half  to  boil  the  maca- 
roni. 

See  also  recipes  under  Macaroni. 

Cheese  Omelet. — Prepare  the  eggs 
as  for  a plain  omelet.  Mix  with 
them  2 ozs.  of  finely  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  a small  pinch  of  salt,  and 
two  pinches  of  pepper.  Fry  the 
omelet  in  the  usual  way.  An  ounce 
of  Gruyere  cheese,  grated,  sprinkled 
in  just  before  folding  the  omelet,  is  an 
improvement.  Fold  and  serve  im- 
mediately. Time,  four  or  five  min- 
utes to  fry.  Any  other  cheese  can 
be  used  in  making  this  omelet. 

Cheese  Paste.  — This  is  made  by 
pounding  cheese  in  a mortar  with  a 
little  butter,  and  adding  wine,  vine- 
gar, pepper,  and  mustard  according 
to  taste,  until  it  is  of  the  consistency 
of  stiff  paste.  It  *is  then  used  as  a 
relish  with  bread-and-butter  or  bis- 
cuits for  luncheon,  supper,  etc.  Cream- 
cheese  may  be  made  into  a paste  by 
mixing  it  with  a little  flour  and  butter 


and  two  or  three  eggs  beaten  with  a 
little  good  cream.  Time  to  prepare, 
about  half  an  hour. 

Cheese  Pastry,  Ramequins  of.  — 

Take  some  good  puff  paste.  Any 
that  is  left  after  making  pies,  tarts, 
etc.,  will  answer  the  purpose.  Roll 
it  out  lightly,  and  sprinkle  over  it 
nicely  flavored  grated  cheese.  Fold 
the  paste  in  three,  and  sprinkle  every 
fold  with  the  cheese.  Cut  little 
shapes  out  with  an  ordinary  pastry 
cutter,  brush  them  over  with  the  beat- 
en yolk  of  egg,  and  bake  in  a quick 
oven.  Serve  them  as  hot  as  possible. 
Time  to  bake,  ten  minutes. 

Cheese  Patties.  — Line  the  tins 
with  good  puff  paste,  and  half  fill 
them  with  a mixture  made  thus  : 
Put  Y\  lb.  of  cheese,  cut  iilto  small 
pieces,  in  a mortar  with  a pinch  of 
salt,  half  a teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
half  a teaspoonful  of  raw  mustard, 
and  a piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an 
egg.  Pound  it  smoothly,  and  add, 
by  degrees,  the  well- beaten  yolks  of 
three  eggs,  and  a table-spoonful  of 
sherry.  Mix  these  ingredients  thor- 
oughly, and  just  before  the  patties 
are  to  be  baked  add  the  white  of  an 
egg  beaten  to  a solid  froth.  Bake 
in  a quick  oven.  Time,  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour. 

Cheese,  Potted. — Put  Y2  lb.  of  good, 
rich  cheese,  cut  into  small  pieces, 
into  a mortar,  with  1 Y2  ozs.  of  fresh 
butter,  a teaspoonful  of  sifted  loaf- 
sugar,  a teaspoonful  of  mustard, 
and  a little  cayenne,  curry  powder, 
or  anchovy  powder.  Pound  these 
ingredients  well  together,  and  as 
soon  as  the  mixture  becomes  a smooth 
paste  put  it  into  a jar,  cover  it  with 
clarified  butter,  and  tie  it  up  closely. 
A little  sherry  may  be  added  or  not. 
Potted  cheese  is  good  spread  on  bread- 
and-butter,  and  is  more  digestible 
than  when  eaten  in  the  usual  way. 
Dry  cheese  may  be  used  for  it.  If 
very  dry,  a larger  proportion  of  butter 
will  be  required.  If  the  butter  used 
is  sweet,  and  it  is  covered  quite  closely. 


Cheese  Puff-balls 


CHEESE 


Welsh  Rabbit 


it  will  keep  good  for  two  or  three  weeks. 
Time,  about  twenty  minutes. 

Cheese  Puff-balls. — Stir  together 
five  table  - spoonfuls  of  Parmesan 
cheese,  grated ; five  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  a salt-spoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
pinch  of  paprika.  Have  ready  on 
the  fire  a large  cup  of  boiling  water, 
into  which  three  dessert-spoonfuls  of 
butter  have  been  melted.  Into  this 
turn  the  flour  - and  - cheese  mixture, 
and  as  it  boils  beat  for  several  min- 
utes. Remove  the  saucepan  from 
the  fire  and  let  the  contents  get  thor- 
oughly cold.  Then  add  three  un- 
beaten eggs,  and  beat  all  hard  for 
twenty  minutes.  Drop  (several 
inches  apart)  heaping  teaspoonfuls 
of  the  mixture  upon  greased  paper 
in  a baking-pan,  and  bake  for  twenty 
minutes.  Like  the  souffle,  these  puff- 
balls must  be  eaten  as  soon  as  baked, 
as  they  fall  if  allowed  to  stand. 

Cheese  Ramequins. — Put  in  a small 
saucepan  2 ozs.  of  good  butter,  with 
one  and  a half  gills  of  cold  water. 
Let  it  start  boiling ; season  with  half 
a teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper ; add  one  gill  of 
sifted  flour ; stir  constantly  with  a 
wooden  spoon  while  seasoning  and 
pouring  the  flour.  Cook  four  min- 
utes, remove  from  the  fire,  add  % lb. 
of  freshly  grated  Parmesan  cheese ; 
add  three  raw  eggs,  one  after  the 
other.  Each  egg  must  be  well  mixed 
before  adding  another  one.  The 
mixture  must  become  like  a dry, 
smooth  paste.  Butter  slightly  some 
porcelain  ramequins,  or  some  small 
tin  moulds ; fill  them  two-thirds  full ; 
sprinkle  over  one  level  teaspoonful  of 
grated  Swiss  cheese.  Place  in  hot 
oven  for  eighteen  minutes ; send  at 
once*  to  the  table.  This  dish  must 
not  wait. 

Cheese  Sandwiches. 

See  Sandwiches. 

Cheese  Straws.  — Beat  3 ozs.  of 
fresh  butter  to  a cream.  Mix  with  it 
3 ozs.  of  dried  flour,  3 ozs.  of  grated 


Parmesan  or  other  cheese,  and  half 
a salt-spoonful  of  cayenne;  add  a 
pinch  of  mace.  Roll  the  paste  out 
thin,  cut  it  into  strips  three  inches 
long  and  the  third  of  an  inch  broad, 
and  bake  them  on  a buttered  tin  in 
a quick  oven.  Serve  them  immedi- 
ately, piled  high  on  a napkin.  Time, 
a few  minutes  to  bake. 

Welsh  Rabbit,  or  Welsh  Rarebit. 

— Cut  some  slices  of  bread  about  half 
an  inch  in  thickness,  and  toast  them 
lightly  on  both  sides.  Lay  on  them 
some  slices  of  good,  rich  cheese,  and 
put  them  in  a pan  till  the  cheese  is 
melted.  Spread  a little  made  mustard 
and  pepper  over  them,  and  serve  on 
very  hot  plates.  It  is  most  desirable 
to  send  this  dish  to  table  quite  hot, 
as  without  this  it  is  entirely  worthless. 

Another  way  : — Cut  some  slices 
of  bread  about  half  an  inch  thick. 
Toast,  and  remove  the  crust ; butter 
them  well  on  both  sides.  Place  on 
the  toast  a layer  of  cold  roast  beef, 
flavored  with  mustard  and  horserad- 
ish. Over  this  spread  some  hot,  toast- 
ed cheese,  thoroughly  saturated  with 
porter,  and  flavored  with  black  pepper, 
salt,  and  shallot  vinegar.  This  dish 
is  rather  indigestible  than  otherwise. 
Time,  a few  minutes  to  toast  the 
cheese. 

Welsh  Rabbit  (in  chafing-dish). — 
Cut  1 lb.  of  fresh,  soft  American 
cheese  in  small  pieces.  Have  ready 
one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  two- 
thirds  of  a cup  of  beer,  the  yolk  of  one 
egg,  and  the  seasonings.  Melt  the 
butter  in  the  blazer ; add  one  tea- 
spoonful of  paprika  and  half  the  beer. 
Mix  until  smooth  and  hot.  Put  the 
blazer  in  the  hot-water  pan,  and  add 
the  cheese  to  the  butter  and  paprika. 
Stir  the  cheese  continuously  while 
it  is  melting,  adding  the  remainder 
of  the  beer  as  necessary.  Stir  slowly, 
but  incessantly,  and  watch  the  cheese 
carefully ; when  melted,  add  the  yolk 
of  the  egg,  beaten.  Add  mustard, 
Worcestershire  sauce,  salt,  and  pepper 
to  taste,  and  serve  on  toast  or  crackers. 
The  proportions  of  seasonings  vary 


77 


Welsh  Rabbit 


CHEESE 


Chestnuts 


with  people’s  tastes,  a salt-spoonful 
of  mustard  and  a teaspoonful  of 
Worcestershire  sauce  being  quite 
safe  amounts  for  the  above  propor- 
tions. The  rabbit  is  done  when  it 
has  reached  a thick,  creamy  con- 
sistency, and  will  suffer  from  over- 
cooking as  much  as  from  too  little. 
The  amount  of  liquid  must  vary 
with  the  kind  of  cheese  and  beer 
used ; the  beer  should  not  be  added 
until  the  rabbit  is  the  right  consist- 
ency. Placing  a poached  egg  on  the 
top  of  a rabbit  makes  it  a “ Golden 
Buck.” 

Another  way  (the  Major’s  recipe)  : 
— Cover  the  floor  of  the  chafing- 
dish  with  about  one  - quarter  of  an 
inch  of  beer  or  ale.  Salt  plentifully, 
bring  it  to  a boil.  The  cheese  having 
been  prepared  by  grating  or  cutting, 
should  then  be  put  into  the  boiling 
beer,  seasoned  with  butter,  pepper, 
dry  English  mustard,  and  perhaps 
Worcestershire  sauce  (according  to 
taste).  The  cheese  should  be  stirred 
slowly  and  any  lumps  smoothed  out. 
The  rabbit  is  cooked  when  the  heat 
has  made  the  cheese  into  a thick 
paste.  Just  before  the  cheese  has 
arrived  at  the  proper  consistency, 
an  egg  that  has  been  beaten  only 
so  much  that  the  yolk  and  the  white 
will  go  together,  should  be  poured 
slowly  in  while  it  is  being  stirred. 
The  rabbit  should  be  served  on  toast 


and  it  is  important  that  the  plates 
should  be  very  hot. 

Welsh  Rabbit  (without  ale  or  beer). 
— Put  toast  or  slices  of  dry  wheat  bread 
on  a hot  plate  and  then  keep  warm. 
Take  I lb.  of  good  American  cheese, 
not  soft  like  putty,  nor  so  hard  that 
it  is  very  brittle.  Cut  rind  off  thick, 
and  break  or  cut  cheese  in  pieces  the 
size  of  walnuts,  or  smaller.  Butter  a 
polished  pan  over  a hot  fire.  A 
teaspoonful  of  butter  suffices,  as  too 
much  butter  makes  the  rabbit  too 
rich.  Put  in  the  cheese,  stir,  and 
when  melting  add  two  or  three  large 
table-spoonfuls  of  milk,  and  keep  stir- 
ring till  all  is  melted  and  well  blend- 
ed ; then,  when  it  “ boils  and  bub- 
bles,” add  one  teaspoonful  of  Worces- 
tershire sauce  or  English  mustard. 
Pour  it  over  the  toast  and  let  each 
participant  apply  his  or  her  own  salt. 

If  the  cheese  is  too  fresh  and  soft 
the  rabbit  becomes  stringy.  To 
avoid  this,  when  it  is  finished  stir 
in  a beaten  egg ; but  this  gives  it  a 
decidedly  different  flavor,  and  for 
many  is  too  rich. 

Cheese  and  Rice  Fritters.  See  Fritters. 
..  and  Spaghetti  Fritters. 

Cakes.  See  Cakes. 

..  Omelet.  See  Eggs. 

..  Sandwiches.  See  Sandwiches. 
..  Souffle.  See  Souffles. 


Cherries.  — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  cherries  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Cherries  and  Tapioca.  See  Fruits. 

..  Cheese. 

..  Compote  of. 

..  Pickled.  See  Pickles. 

..  Pie.  See  Pies. 

..  Mock. 

..  Preserved.  See  Preserves. 
. Pudding,  Baked — Boiled. 

See  Puddings. 

..  Sauce. 

..  Salad.  See  Salads. 

..  Soup  or  Bouillon.  See  Soups. 


Cheese  Cakes.  See  Cakes 

Cheshire  Cream.  See  Creams. 

Chestnuts. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  chestnuts  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Chestnut  Cream.  See  Creams. 

..  Cream  of.  See  Soups. 

..  Compote  of.  See  Fruits. 

..  Mountain. 

..  Force-meat. 

See  Force-meats. 
..  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 
..  Salad.  See  Salads. 


Chicken 


CHOCOLATE  Clarifying  Soups 


Chicken. — The  following  recipes  for  Chocolate  Cake. 


See  Cakes. 


chicken  will  be 

found  under 

..  Eclairs. 

.. 

pective  headings  as  indicated  i 

..  Layer  Cake. 

Boned. 

See  Poultry. 

..  Macaroons. 

Boiled. 

..  Caramels. 

See  Candy. 

Breaded. 

## 

..  Creams. 

Broiled. 

..  Creams. 

See  Creams. 

Broth. 

• • 

..  Custard. 

See  Custards. 

Celeried. 

o« 

..  Ice-cream. 

See  Ices. 

Consomme. 

99 

,,  Parfait. 

Creamed. 

G# 

Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 

Creole  fashion. 

f 

«...  Sandwiches. 

Croquettes. 

09 

See  Sandwiches. 

Curried. 

99 

,.  Souffle. 

See  Souffles. 

en  Casserole. 

09 

F ricassee. 

Chow-chow. 

See  Pickles. 

Fried. 

99 

Gumbo. 

Chowder. 

See  Fish. 

in  Aspic. 

99 

Parisian. 

99 

Chutney. 

See  Pickles. 

Patties. 

m9 

Pie. 

99 

Cider. 

See  Beverages. 

Pressed. 

99 

..  Cup. 

.. 

Pudding. 

9 

..  Sweet. 

Ragout  of. 

Rissoles. 

Cinnamon  Cake. 

See  Cakes. 

Salad. 

Spring 

Citron. — The  following  recipes  for 

Stew. 

cooking  citron  will 

be  found  under 

Supreme  of. 

their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 

Terrapin. 

Citron  Cake. 

See  Cakes. 

Salad. 

See  Salads. 

..  Preserve. 

See  Preserves. 

Sandwiches. 

..  Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 

See  Sandwiches. 

..  Spiced. 

See  Pickles. 

and  Ham 

Sandwiches, 
and  Nut 
Sandwiches. 
Souffle. 
Gumbo. 

Soups. 

Timbales. 


Chicory  Puree. 
Chilli  Sauce. 


See  Souffles. 
See  Soups. 

See  Timbales 

See  Mutton. 

See  Pickles. 


Clams. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  clams  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 


Chocolate. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  chocolate  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Chocolate.  See  Beverages. 

..  Frappe. 

,.  Blanc-mange. 

See  Blanc-mange. 


Clam  Bisque. 
Broth. 
Chowder. 
Fritters. 
Fritters. 
Soup. 

Claret  Cream. 

Claret  Cup. 

Claret  Jelly. 

Clarifying  Fat. 


See  Fish. 


See  Fritters. 
See  Soups. 

See  Creams. 

See  Beverages. 

See  Jellies. 


See  Drippings ; Suet. 
Clarifying  Soups.  See  Soups. 


79 


Clarifying  Sugar 


COFFEE 


Coloring 


Clarifying  Sugar. 
Clotted  Cream. 


See  Fruits. 
See  Creams. 


Coffee,  Mousse. 
..  Foam. 
Jelly. 


See  Ices. 
See  Jellies. 


Cock-a-Leekie. 


See  Soups.  Cold-slaw  Salad. 


See  Salads. 


Cocoa. — Recipes  calling  for  cocoa 
will  be  found  under  their  respective 
headings  as  indicated  : 

Cocoa  Blanc-mange. 

See  Blanc-mange. 
Iced.  See  Beverages. 

..  Shells. 


Cocoanut. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  cocoanuts  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Cocoanut  Cake. 

Jumbles. 

Snow-balls. 

Caramels. 

Cream  Bars. 

Cream. 

Ice-cream. 

Pie. 

Pie-crust. 

Pudding.  See  Puddings. 


See  Cakes. 


See  Candy. 

See  Creams. 
See  Ices. 
See  Pies. 


Cod.  — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  cod  will  be  found  under  their 
respective  headings  as  indicated  : 

Cod  k la  Bechamel.  See  Fish. 

..  k la  Bonne  Femme 
..  Boiled.  ... 

..  Broiled. 

..  Cakes. 

..  Head  and  Shoulders. 

..  Matelote  of. 


Coffee. — The  following  recipes  for 
coffee  in  different  forms  will  be  found 
under  their  various  headings  as  indi- 
cated : 

Coffee.  See  Beverages. 

Black. 

..  Cuban. 

..  Frappe.  .. 

..  Blanc-mange. 

See  Blanc-mange. 
..  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

..  Bavarian  Cream.  See  Creams. 
..  Cream. 

..  Custard.  See  Custards. 

..  Ice-cream.  See  Ices. 


Collared  Breast  of  Lamb. 

See  Mutton. 

Coloring. — Brown:  It  is  a very  usual 
practice  to  make  brown  coloring  as  it 
is  wanted  by  burning  a little  sugar 
in  an  iron  spoon  and  stirring  it  into 
the  soup  or  sauce.  By  this  means 
the  flavor  is  almost  sure  to  be  spoiled. 
The  better  plan  is  to  make  a little 
browning  and  keep  it  stored  for  use. 
It  will  keep  for  years.  Put  % lb.  of 
granulated  sugar  into  a saucepan 
with  a table-spoonful  of  water,  and 
stir  unceasingly  over  a gentle  fire, 
with  a wooden  spoon,  until  it  be- 
gins to  acquire  a little  color.  Draw 
it  back  and  bake  it  very  slowly,  still 
stirring  it,  until  it  is  almost  black, 
without  being  in  the  least  burned.  It 
will  take  about  half  an  hour.  Pour 
a quart  of  water  over  it,  let  it  boil  for  a 
few  minutes  until  the  sugar  is  quite 
dissolved,  pour  it  out,  and  when 
cold  strain  it  into  a bottle  and  store 
it  for  use.  A table-spoonful  of  this 
browning  will  color  half  a pint  of 
liquid,  and  there  will  be  no  danger 
of  an  unpleasant  taste  being  given 
to  the  sauce,  etc.  The  addition  of  a 
little  claret  or  mushroom  catsup  will 
often  impart  as  much  coloring  to 
sauces  as  is  required.  When  it  is 
wished  to  thicken  the  sauce  as  well 
as  color  it,  brown  thickening  should 
be  used.  Green:  Pound  some  young 
spinach  or  beet  leaves.  Press  out  the 
juice  and  put  it  in  a cup.  Place  this 
cup  in  a saucepan  of  boiling  water 
and  let  it  simmer  gently,  to  take  off 
the  raw  taste  of  the  juice.  Before 
using  it,  mix  it  with  a little  finely 
sifted  sugar.  Red : Two  or  three 
drops  of  cochineal  will  impart  a beau- 
tiful red  or  pink  coloring.  White : 
Use  pounded  almonds,  arrow-root,  or 
cream.  Yellow:  For  a clear  yellow, 
dissolve  orange  or  lemon  jelly.  For 
an  opaque,  pound  the  yolks  of  eggs 
80 


Composition  Cake 


CORN 


Crayfish  Soup 


and  mix  it  with  the  liquid,  or  add  a 
little  saffron.  See  also  Jellies  made 
with  gelatine. 

Composition  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

Compotes  of  Fruits.  See  Fruits. 

..  ..  Syrup  for 

See  Fruits. 

Consomm6  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Cooked  Salad.  CDr.  Kitchiner's). 

See  Salads. 


Corned  Beef. — The  following  rec- 
ipes for  cooking  corned  beef  will  be 
found  under  their  respective  headings 
as  indicated : 

Corned  Beef,  Boiled.  See  Beef. 

..  ..  Potted. 

Scrapple. 

..  ..  Spiced 

Corn-starch  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

Cottage  Cheese.  See  Cheese. 

Cottage  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 


Cookies. 


See  Cakes. 


Coquille  of  Fish.  See  Fish. 

Cordials,  Home-made. 

See  Beverages. 


Corn.  — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  corn  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Com  and  Rice  Bread.  See  Bread. 
..  Bread. 

..  Batter  Bread. 

..  Cakes. 

..  Dodgers. 

..  Griddle  Cakes. 

..  Meal  Griddle  Cakes. 

Muffins. 

..  Omelet.  See  Eggs. 

..  Fritters.  See  Fritters. 

..  Meal  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 
..  Pudding. 

..  Soup.  See  Soups. 

..  Dried.  See  Vegetables. 

..  Fried. 

..  Green,  Boiled. 

Stewed. 


Corn  Flour  (for  Children). — To  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  corn  flour,  mixed 
with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water, 
add  half  a pint  of  boiling  milk ; boil 
for  eight  minutes,  and  sweeten  slight- 
ly. It  should  be,  when  warm,  about 
the  thickness  of  cream.  For  children 
of  a year  old  and  upward,  it  may 
be  prepared  wholly  with  milk,  and 
thicker.  For  children’s  diet  it  is 
important  that  good  sweet  milk 
should  be  used. 

6 


Court  Bouillon  (for  boiling  fish). 

See  Fish. 


Crab  Apples,  Preserved. 

See  Preserves. 

Crabs.  — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  crabs  will  be  found  under  their 
respective  headings  as  indicated  : 

Crab,  Baked.  See  Fish. 

Curried. 

..  Devilled. 

..  Soft-shell. 

..  Soup. 

..  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Crackers  for  Invalids. — One  quart 
of  flour,  two  eggs,  one  table-spoonful 
of  sugar.  The  eggs  and  sugar  must 
be  beaten  well  together.  One  large 
spoonful  of  butter  and  lard  mixed,  to 
be  rubbed  well  into  the  flour.  Mix 
all  together,  and  beat  long  and  well. 
Roll  out  as  thin  as  a wafer. 


Cranberries. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  cranberries  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Cranberry  and  Rice.  See  Fruits. 
..  Gruel. 

..  Bavarian  Cream. 

See  Creams. 
..  Pie.  See  Pies. 

..  Jelly.  See  Preserves. 

Dumpling.  See  Puddings. 
..  Pudding. 

..  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 


See  Soups. 


81 


Crayfish  Soup. 


Apple  Cream 


CREAMS 


Chocolate  Cream 


Apple  Cream.  — Boil  twelve  large 
apples  in  water  till  soft,  take  off  skin, 
and  rub  pulp  through  hair  sieve  upon 
/4  lb.  of  granulated  sugar,  whip  whites 
of  two  eggs,  then  add  all  to  apples ; 
beat  until  it  is  very  stiff  and  looks 
quite  white.  Serve  heaped  up  in  a 
dish.  See  also  Fruits. 

Banana  Cream.  — Rub  through 
a coarse  sieve ; add  as  much  cream 
as  fruit,  and  a pinch  of  salt.  To 
one  pint  of  this  mixture  add  2 ozs. 
of  powdered  sugar.  Beat  this  with  a 
whip  until  it  is  light  and  frothy. 
Serve  in  glasses  and  sprinkle  blanch- 
ed and  powdered  almonds  over  the 
top.  In  the  centre  of  each  place  a 
candied  cherry.  Serve  cold. 

Bavarian  Cream.  — Soak  half  a 
package  of  gelatine  in  a cupful  of  cold 
water  two  hours.  Mash  together 
one  quart  of  berries  and  one  cupful 
of  sugar  and  let  them  stand  an  hour. 
Then  press  through  a fine  sieve,  re- 
jecting the  seeds.  Pour  half  a cup- 
ful of  hot  water  on  the  soaked  gela- 
tine, and  when  it  is  dissolved  add  the 
strained  berries.  Stand  the  pan  con- 
taining the  mixture  in  a basin  of 
ice -water  and  beat  until  it  begins 
to  thicken,  then  stir  in  one  pint  of 
cream  that  has  been  whipped  light 
and  dry.  Stir  gently  from  the  bot- 
tom of  the  dish  until  it  is  quite  thick, 
then  pour  into  a mould  and  set  away 
to  harden.  Serve  with  whipped 
cream.  When  serving,  heap  fresh 
berries  or  fruit  in  the  centre  of  the 
mould  and  pass  whipped  i cream 
in  a separate  dish. 

Bavarian  Creams  (general  direc- 
tions).— All  Bavarian  creams  are  easi- 
ly made  and  can  be  prepared  some 
time  before  dinner. 

The  cream  should  be  thoroughly 
chilled  before  it  is  whipped  and  drain- 
ed. The  gelatine  should  not  be 
boiled,  but  should  be  soaked  in  cold 
water  at  least  an  hour  before  it  is  used. 
The  cream  is  not  to  be  added  to  the 
gelatine  mixtures  until  these  are  part- 
ly frozen  and  are  beginning  to  set. 


All  Bavarian  creams  make  good  char- 
lotte russe. 

Cake,  Cream  for. — Heat  one  pint  of 
milk,  and  add  to  it  one  table-spoonful 
of  corn -starch  dissolved  in  a little 
milk,  two  eggs,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  all 
beaten  together ; boil  it  until  it  thick- 
ens. Split  the  cakes  when  cold,  and 
fill  with  cream. 

Cheshire  Cream.  — Put  the  thin 
rind  of  a small  lemon  into  a break- 
fast-cupful  of  thick  cream.  Let  it 
remain  for  an  hour  or  more,  then 
take  it  out,  and  add  a small  tea- 
spoonful of  lemon-juice,  a dessert- 
spoonful of  sugar,  and  a glass  of 
sherry.  Beat  these  thoroughly,  and 
place  the  froth,  as  it  is  made,  on  a 
sieve  to  drain,  and  let  it  remain  five 
or  six  hours.  When  ready  to  serve, 
put  it  on  a glass  dish  with  a bor- 
der of  macaroons  or  cocoanut  biscuits 
round  it. 

Chestnut  Cream.  — Boil  the  chest- 
nuts, remove  the  skins  and  husks, 
boil  them  again  in  half  a pint  of 
milk,  sweetened  with  I oz.  of  sugar 
and  a teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract. 
Pass  through  a wire  sieve.  Add  a 
wineglassful  of  maraschino  to  it. 
Melt  I oz.  of  gelatine  in  a cupful  of 
cold  water.  Whip  up  half  a pint  of 
cream  and  mix  it  lightly  with  the 
chestnut  puree,  and  stir  in  the  melted 
gelatine  which  has  been  warmed.  If 
too  cold,  the  gelatine  will  make  the 
cream  lump ; if  too  hot,  it  will  destroy 
the  lightness  of  the  cream.  Turn  it 
into  moulds.  This  makes  a pretty 
dessert  if  it  is  surrounded  with  a bor- 
der of  wine  or  lemon  jelly. 

Chocolate  Cream.  — Grate  i oz. 
of  the  best  chocolate  and  2 ozs.  of 
sugar  into  a pint  of  thick  cream ; 
boil  it,  stirring  it  all  the  time,  until 
quite  smooth ; then  add,  when  cool, 
the  whites  of  four  eggs  beaten  to  a 
solid  froth.  Half  fill  the  glasses, 
and  whip  the  remainder  into  a froth 
to  put  at  the  top.  Time,  twenty 
minutes. 


Claret  Cream 


CREAMS 


Cranberry  Cream 


Another  way  : — Allow  enough  new 
milk  to  fill  ten  small  cups ; set  it  on 
to  boil,  and,  having  mixed  in  half  a 
pint  of  milk  2 ozs.  of  grated  chocolate, 
add  it  to  the  boiling  milk.  Just 
before  it  comes  off  the  fire  pour  in 
the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  beaten  and 
mixed  in  a little  milk,  and  Yz  lb. 
of  white  sugar.  When  cool,  mix 
in  the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs  and 
a small  quantity  of  vanilla  boiled 
in  milk.  Fill  the  cups  nearly  full, 
place  them  in  water,  and  boil  half  an 
hour.  Serve  cold. 

Another  way  : — One  quart  of  milk, 
four  table  - spoonfuls  of  sugar,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  % lb. 
of  chocolate,  a little  vanilla,  two 
eggs.  Let  the  milk  get  very  hot, 
but  not  boiling.  Smooth  the  corn- 
starch with  cold  milk.  Beat  eggs 
and  sugar  together;  grate  the  choco- 
late, and  dissolve  it  with  hot  milk. 
First  stir  in  the  corn-starch,  then  the 
sugar  and  chocolate,  and  let  it  boil 
until  it  thickens,  which  will  be  in  a 
few  moments.  Stir  all  the  time, 
and  after  it  is  taken  off  still  stir  it 
until  it  begins  to  cool.  This  makes 
it  very  smooth.  Add  three  tea- 
spoonfuls of  vanilla.  Pour  it  into 
the  dish  in  which  it  will  be  served 
at  the  table,  and  put  it  on  the  ice. 
It  is  very  nice  frozen. 

Claret  Cream. — Pour  a pint  of  claret 
jelly  into  a border  mould,  and  set  to 
harden.  Dissolve  a teaspoonful  of 
gelatine;  mix  in  a coffee -cupful  of 
thick,  sweet  cream.  Whip  until  solid ; 
add  1 oz.  each  of  candied  strawberries 
and  orange.  Set  on  ice.  Turn  the 
jelly  out  on  a round  glass  dish.  Pile 
the  whipped  cream  in  the  centre,  and 
serve. 

Clotted  Cream. — Clotted  cream  is 
made  by  putting  the  milk  into  a large 
metal  pan  and  allowing  it  to  stand 
without  moving  it  for  some  hours, 
— twenty -four  in  winter,  twelve  in 
summer.  The  pan  is  then  placed 
on  a stove  or  over  a very  slow  fire, 
and  some  distance  above  it,  so  that 
it  will  heat  without  boiling,  or  even 


simmering,  until  a solid  mass  forms 
on  the  top.  Lift  off  the  cream  and 
let  it  get  cold. 

Cocoanut  Cream. — Grate  two  large, 
fresh  cocoanuts.  Mix  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar.  Melt  a table- 
spoonful of  gelatine  in  a little  water. 
Beat  the  whites  of  five  eggs.  Mix 
them  very  gently  in  a pint  of  milk ; set 
over  the  fire  and  stir  until  the  mixture 
begins  to  thicken.  Sweeten  with  half 
a cupful  of  sugar.  Add  the  gelatine 
and  cocoanut  with  the  cocoanut  milk 
to  the  custard.  Let  cool,  pour  into  a 
mould,  and  set  on  ice. 

Coffee  Cream.  — Half  a pint  of 
strong,  clear  coffee  and  half  a pint  of 
boiling  cream.  Beat  these  well  to- 
gether, and  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
loaf  sugar.  Let  the  mixture  stand, 
and  when  cool  add  a small  pinch  of 
salt,  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs, 
with  the  whites  of  two.  Stir  over  the 
fire  till  it  thickens,  then  pour  into 
glasses  and  serve  with  sifted  sugar 
on  the  top  of  each  glass. 

Coffee,  Bavarian  Cream.  — One 

cupful  of  strong  coffee,  one  pint  of 
cream,  half  a package  of  gelatine,  one 
cupful  of  sugar.  Dissolve  the  gela- 
tine in  cold  water.  Pour  on  this  the 
coffee,  boiling  hot,  and  when  the  gela- 
tine is  dissolved  add  the  sugar.  Strain 
into  a basin,  which  put  in  a pan  of  ice- 
water.  Beat  until  it  begins  to  thicken, 
then  add  the  cream,  which  has  been 
whipped  to  a froth.  When  thoroughly 
mixed,  turn  into  a mould  and  set  away 
to  harden.  Serve  with  sugar  and 
cream. 

Cranberry  Bavarian  Cream. — Rub 

through  a sieve  while  hot  one  pint  of 
cooked  cranberries,  and  add  to  them 
one  cupful  of  granulated  sugar.  Dis- 
solve half  a box  of  gelatine  in  a little 
cold  water  and  add  it  while  the  berries 
are  hot.  When  the  sugar  and  gel- 
atine are  dissolved,  place  the  dish 
containing  the  mixture  in  a pan  of 
ice -water  and  stir  until  it  begins  to 
thicken;  then  add  one  cupful  of  milk 


Creole  Cream 


CREAMS 


Italian  Cream 


and  one  cupful  of  cream,  whipped 
light.  Beat  thoroughly  and  turn  it 
into  a mould  and  set  on  ice.  Serve 
with  whipped  cream. 

Creole  Cream. — Beat  the  yolks  of 
six  eggs  with  half  a teacupful  of  pow- 
dered sugar ; add  a pint  of  rich  milk. 
Set  over  the  fire  and  stir  until  very 
hot,  but  not  boiling ; take  off  and  let 
cool.  Cut  up  Y\  lb.  of  citron.  Orna- 
ment the  sides  of  a mould  with  can- 
died strawberries  and  leaves  cut  from 
thin  sheets  of  lemon  jelly.  Stir  two 
table  - spoonfuls  of  melted  gelatine 
into  a pint  of  whipped  cream ; add  to 
the  custard  with  the  chopped  citron; 
pour  into  the  mould  and  set  on  ice. 

Devonshire  Cream. 

See  Clotted  Cream. 

Floral  Creams.  — The  Germans 
have  a great  variety  of  cold  sweet 
dishes  : Apple  blossoms,  violets,  jas- 
mine, or  red  roses  may  be  chosen,  ac- 
cording to  the  season.  Of  course, 
only  one  kind  of  flower  must  be  used. 
Choose,  for  instance,  fragrant  red 
roses,  not  too  full  blown;  free  them 
carefully  from  withered  petals  or  rose- 
worms.  Take  6 Y*  ozs.  of  the  petals, 
chop  them  very  fine  as  quickly  as  pos- 
sible, put  them  on  a clean  plate,  and 
add  2 ozs.  of  powdered  sugar ; cover 
closely,  and  let  them  stand  for  half 
an  hour.  At  the  end  of  this  time  set 
one  quart  of  sweet  milk  over  a slow 
fire,  add  the  rose  leaves,  cover  care- 
fully, and  let  them  simmer  half  an 
hour.  Then  bring  the  milk  to  a boil, 
strain  it  through  a sieve  into  a clean 
saucepan,  squeeze  the  rose  petals 
thoroughly,  put  the  milk  back  on  the 
fire,  and  add  Y\  lb.  of  sugar.  Add 
to  Y\  lb.  of  flour  and  }£  lb.  of  rice 
flour  just  enough  milk  to  be  able  to 
stir  the  mixture.  Put  in  a teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  and,  if  obtainable,  a few 
spoonfuls  of  the  juice  of  preserved 
cherries  to  give  a pink  tinge,  or  a 
few  drops  of  cochineal  or  of  beet- 
juice  can  be  used.  When  the  rose 
milk  boils,  stir  one -half  gradually 
into  the  flour,  then,  stirring  constant- 


ly, add  the  whole  to  the  boiling  milk, 
and  continue  to  stir  till  the  whole 
mass  is  clear  and  thick.  Fill  a china 
mould  with  cold  water,  turn  it  out, 
sprinkle  sugar  over  it,  pour  the  mixt- 
ure in,  and  let  it  stand  on  the  ice  un- 
til perfectly  cold.  Serve  with  whipped 
or  plain  cream.  The  delicate  flavor 
of  the  flower  can  always  be  distinctly 
perceived. 

Fruit  Cream. — Half  a box  of  gela- 
tine, one  pint  of  milk,  one  pint  of  very 
ripe  strawberries  or  raspberries,  yolks 
of  two  eggs,  half  a cupful  of  fine  sugar, 
half  a pint  of  cream,  whipped  stiff. 
Soak  the  gelatine  in  half  a cupful  of 
cold  water.  Rub  through  a colander 
the  pulp  and  juice  of  the  berries.  Heat 
the  milk  in  a double  boiler,  put  in 
the  sugar  and  soaked  gelatine,  and 
stir  until  dissolved.  Beat  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs  light,  add  carefully  to  the 
milk  and  gelatine,  and  take  at  once 
from  the  fire.  When  partially  cool, 
put  with  it  the  fruit  pulp  and  juice, 
stir  in  the  whipped  cream  lightly, 
and  turn  into  a mould  wet  with  cold 
water.  Leave  it  in  a cool  place  until 
firm,  and  put  on  the  ice  for  an  hour 
or  two  before  serving.  When  berries 
cannot  be  obtained,  peaches  or  apri- 
cots may  be  used,  and  if  not  tender 
enough  to  rub  through  a colander 
they  may  be  stewed  long  enough 
to  soften  them. 

Iced  Jelly  Cream.  — Fill  a bowl 
with  gelatine  jelly,  colored  pink  ; 
set  on  ice  to  harden.  When  solid, 
scoop  out  the  centre  with  a spoon, 
leaving  a shell  of  jelly  about  an  inch 
thick.  Dissolve  a table-spoonful  of 
gelatine  in  a little  milk.  Let  cool ; 
add  to  it  a pint  of  thick  cream,  sweeten, 
flavor  with  vanilla,  whip  until  stiff, 
turn  into  a small  freezer  and  half 
freeze.  Take  up  carefully,  fill  the 
jelly-mould  with  it,  cover  securely, 
and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  for  four 
hours  before  serving. 

Italian  Cream.  — Soak  half  a box 
of  gelatine  in  a teacupful  of  cold 
water  for  half  an  hour,  then  add  a 


Lemon  Cream 


C REAMS 


Peach  Cream 


cupful  of  boiling  water.  When  cold, 
strain,  and  add  three  cupfuls  of  gran- 
ulated sugar,  juice  of  three  lemons, 
the  grated  rind  of  two  lemons,  three- 
quarters  of  a cupful  of  sherry  wine, 
and  one  quart  of  cream.  Then  freeze. 

Lemon  Cream. — Squeeze  the  juice 
from  four  lemons  and  soak  the  skins 
all  night  in  a pint  of  cold  water.  Next 
day  add  to  the  water  the  juice  of  the 
lemons,  I lb.  of  sugar,  and  nine  eggs, 
beaten  together.  Beat  the  whole  to- 
gether and  strain  it.  Simmer  over  a 
slow  fire  until  thick,  stirring  all  the 
time.  When  cool,  put  in  custard-cups, 
and  serve  very  cold,  with  sponge  cake 
or  some  delicate  crackers  to  eat  with  it. 

Another  way  : — One  quart  of  milk, 
four  eggs,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  i oz. 
of  gelatine  soaked  in  a small  cupful 
of  cold  water,  one  large  lemon  or  two 
small  ones.  Soak  the  gelatine  one 
hour.  Heat  the  milk  to  boiling,  and 
pour  it  on  the  sugar  and  beaten 
yolks.  Put  back  on  the  fire  and  stir 
in  the  gelatine.  Cook  five  minutes, 
take  from  the  stove,  flavor  with  the 
juice  of  the  lemon  and  half  the  grated 
rind,  and  when  it  is  cold  and  begins 
to  stiffen  stir  in  the  whites  of  the  eggs, 
whipped  stiff.  Pour  into  a mould  wet 
with  cold  water,  and  serve  when  firm. 

Little  Creams  for  Luncheon.  — 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  apricot  jam 
(peaches  will  do  as  well) ; mix  with  a 
wineglassful  of  sherry;  rub  through 
a wire  sieve  ; then  whisk  the  pounded 
jam  with  a gill  of  cream  and  a table- 
spoonful of  castor  sugar.  Whisk  also 
the  whites  of  two  eggs ; incorporate 
them  lightly  with  the  cream ; pour 
the  mixture  into  custard-glasses. 
Decorate  the  top  of  the  creams  with 
pink  sugar  and  chopped  pistachios. 
Serve  with  sponge  cake  or  ladyfingers. 


the  mixture.  Beat  the  whole  with  an 
egg-whip  over  a slow  fire  until  it  boils, 
take  the  cream  from  the  fire,  add 
I ozs.  of  dissolved  gelatine,  set  the 
vessel  on  ice  or  in  another  filled  with 
cold  water,  and  stir  until  the  mass 
thickens.  Add  one  pint  of  cream, 
whipped  until  very  stiff,  line  a mould 
with  lady  fingers,  fill  with  the  mixt- 
ure, and  set  it  on  the  ice  to  harden. 

Nut  Cream. — Take  a pint  of  hazel 
or  hickory  nut  kernels,  rub  the  skins 
off  with  a coarse  towel,  and  pound 
to  a paste  with  a little  white  of  an 
egg.  Make  a custard  of  half  a pint 
of  sweet  milk,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
and  half  a teacupful  of  sugar.  Set 
over  the  fire  until  boiling ; take  off ; 
when  cool,  add  a teaspoonful  of  gela- 
tine disolved  in  warm  water.  Stir  in 
the  nut  paste,  mix  well,  whip  half  a 
pint  of  thick  cream,  add  to  the  mixture, 
turn  into  a mould,  and  set  on  ice. 

Orange  Cream. — Rub  two  cupfuls 
of  cut  sugar  on  the  outside  peel  of 
six  large  oranges,  and  add  enough 
water  to  make  a pint  and  a half. 
Boil  this  until  clear,  and  strain 
through  a muslin  bag.  When  cold, 
beat  it  up  thoroughly  with  half  a 
pint  of  thick  cream ; then  stir  in  i 
oz.  of  gelatine  soaked  in  half  a pint  of 
cold  water.  The  juice  of  the  oranges 
is  not  used.  To  be  put  into  moulds 
and  hardened  on  ice. 

Orange  - flower  Cream.  — Sweeten 
one  pint  of  cream  to  taste;  add  four 
well-beaten  eggs,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
wine,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  orange- 
flower  water ; grate  in  one  nutmeg, 
and  stir  alf  together  over  the  fire 
until  thick.  Besides  making  a very 
dainty  cream,  this  recipe  is  nice  for 
tarts  or  cream  cakes. 


Madeira  Cream.  — Boil  half  a va-  Peach  Cream.  — Peel  fifteen  large, 
nilla  pod,  chopped  fine,  in  a little  ripe  peaches;  rub  them  through  a 
water.  Beat  the  yolks  of  twelve  sieve,  add  Y/z  lb.  of  powdered  sugar 
eggs  with  half  a bottle  of  Madeira  and  i oz.  of  gelatine  (which  has  been 
wine,  34  lb.  of  powdered  sugar,  and  dissolved),  and  mix  quickly  with  a 
the  grated  peel  and  juice  of  a lemon,  pint  and  a half  of  whipped  cream. 
Strain  the  vanilla  water  and  add  to  If  the  fruit  cannot  be  obtained  in  a 

85 


Pineapple  Cream 


CREAMS 


Strawberry  Cream 


sufficiently  ripe  condition,  boil  with 
the  sugar  in  a little  water  until  soft 
enough  to  pass  through  the  sieve. 

Another  way : — With  a quart  of 
new  milk  and  three  well-beaten  eggs, 
the  whites  and  yolks  beaten  separate- 
ly, make  a thin  custard.  Dissolve 
a heaping  teaspoonful  of  arrow- 
root  in  cold  milk,  and  stir  it  into  the 
custard  when  it  is  scalding.  Let 
the  custard  simmer,  but  not  boil. 
Sweeten  to  your  taste,  then  strain. 
While  it  is  cooling,  peel  and  mash 
perfectly  fine  a sufficient  number  of 
thoroughly  ripe  peaches  to  make  a 
quart  of  pulp ; make  very  sweet  with 
fine  white  sugar.  Add  the  fruit  when 
the  custard  is  perfectly  cold,  and  beat 
with  a wooden  spoon  before  putting 
into  the  freezer. 

Pineapple  Cream.  — Grate  a fresh 
pineapple,  and  mix  with  a pint  of 
syrup  made  from  i lb.  of  sugar.  Add 
to  this  a quart  of  cream,  and  rub 
through  a sieve.  Before  grating  the 
pineapple  take  from  it  two  or  three 
slices,  which  must  be  cut  into  small 
dice  and  added  to  the  strained  cream 
before  freezing. 

Princess  Cream. — Let  6 ozs.  of  rice 
boil  up  once,  wash  it  with  cold  water, 
cook  it  with  six  gills  of  cream,  and  one 
vanilla  bean  to  flavor  it,  over  a very 
slow  fire  until  soft ; add  8 ozs.  of  sugar, 
and  let  it  steam  fifteen  minutes  in  a 
hot  place.  Take  the  mixture  off  the 
fire  and  stir  until  nearly  cold.  Whip 
one  pint  of  cream  until  stiff;  add  a lit- 
tle, with  one  glass  of  maraschino  and 
% oz.  of  isinglass — or  I oz.  of  dis- 
solved lukewarm  gelatine — to  the  rice, 
and  stir  carefully  until  it  begins  to 
thicken ; add  the  rest  of  the  whipped 
cream,  and  if  the  mixture  should  not 
be  sweet  enough  to  please  the  maker's 
taste,  add  more  sugar;  then  pour  into 
a mould  and  set  it  on  the  ice  or  in  a 
cold  place  to  harden.  To  turn  it  out, 
place  the  mould  in  warm  water  for  a 
few  minutes,  wipe  it  dry  quickly, 
turn  the  rice-cream  into  a dish,  gar- 
nish with  conserved  fruits,  and  serve 
with  a cold  fruit  sauce  prepared  in  the 


following  way : Rub  strawberries  or 
raspberries  through  a fine  sieve,  add 
pulverized  sugar  and  a little  white 
wine.  Or  if  berries  are  out  of  season, 
serve  with  cream  and  sugar,  or  with 
whipped  cream. 

Raspberry  Cream.  — Half  a box  of 
gelatine,  half  a cupful  of  cold  water, 
half  a cupful  of  boiling  water,  one 
cupful  of  sugar,  one  pint  of  cream, 
whipped,  one  pint  of  raspberry-juice. 
Soak  the  gelatine  one  hour  in  the  cold 
water,  then  put  it  with  the  sugar 
and  boiling  water  in  a double  boiler 
over  the  fire,  and  stir  until  thoroughly 
dissolved.  Add  the  raspberry-juice ; 
strain  and  set  in  a cool  place.  When 
it  has  begun  to  form,  stir  in  the 
whipped  cream,  turn  into  a mould, 
and  set  on  the  ice  to  harden. 

Spanish  Cream.  — One  quart  of 
milk,  four  eggs ; gelatine,  half  a box. 
Flavor  with  vanilla  or  rose  - water  ; 
eight  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar.  Pour 
half  the  milk  on  the  gelatine  cold,  and 
let  it  stand  an  hour.  Add  the  rest  of 
the  milk,  and  let  all  boil  together. 
Separate  the  eggs,  adding  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  sugar  to  the  beaten  yolks 
and  four  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  to 
the  whites.  When  the  milk  and  gela- 
tine have  boiled,  add  the  yolks.  When 
this  cream  is  thick  and  smooth  take  it 
off  the  fire,  and  let  it  get  quite  cool  be- 
fore adding  the  whites.  Flavor  with 
vanilla,  and  then  pour  it  into  wetted 
moulds,  to  turn  out,  like  blanc-mange, 
in  a few  hours. 

Another  way  : — Boil  till  dissolved 
I oz.  of  gelatine  in  three  pints  of  fresh 
milk.  Then  add  the  yolks  of  six  eggs, 
beaten  light  and  mixed  with  a teacup- 
ful and  a half  of  sugar.  Put  again 
on  the  fire,  and  stir  until  it  thickens. 
Then  set  it  aside  to  cool,  and  mean- 
time beat  the  six  whites  very  stiff,  and 
stir  them  into  the  custard  when  almost 
cold.  Pour  into  moulds.  Flavor  to 
your  taste  with  bitter  almond,  lemon, 
or  vanilla,  before  adding  the  whites. 

Strawberry  Bavarian  Cream.  — 
Cover  half  a box  of  gelatine  with  a tea- 


Strawberry  Cream 


C REAMS  Cress  and  Celery  Salad 


cupful  of  cold  water,  and  let  soak  for 
twenty  minutes.  Mash  a quart  of 
ripe  strawberries  and  press  through  a 
sieve ; add  a cupful  of  sugar  to  the 
juice.  Stir  the  gelatine  over  boiling 
water  until  dissolved,  strain  it  into 
the  strawberry-juice,  set  on  ice,  and 
stir  until  it  thickens ; add  a pint  of 
whipped  cream;  mix  gently.  Pour 
into  a mould  and  set  in  a cool  place 
to  harden. 

Strawberry  Cream. — Hull  a bowl  of 
firm,  ripe  strawberries,  and  chill  next 
the  ice  until  they  become  ice-cold. 
Crush  a second  bowl  of  berries,  and 
drain  from  the  pulp  an  exact  half-pint 
of  the  juice.  Stir  the  bowl  of  juice 
with  2 ozs.  of  powdered  sugar  and 
Yz  oz.  of  transparent  gelatine,  melted 
in  a trifle  of  water  until  the  sugar  be- 
comes dissolved.  Wipe  the  inside  of 
a mould  with  a bit  of  linen  dipped  in 
oil  of  sweet  almonds,  wipe  with  a bit 
of  dry  linen,  and  balance  the  mould  in 
a bowl  of  salt  and  cracked  ice.  Dip 
the  rosy  berries  one  by  one  in  the  bowl 
of  half-fluid  jelly,  drain  for  an  instant, 
and  arrange  in  close  circles  around  the 
bottom  and  sides  of  the  mould  to  form 
a shell.  Chill  the  shell  until  the  jelly 
becomes  firm.  Whip  a pint  of  double 
cream  with  a whisk  until  the  cream 
thickens  by  the  swift  strokes  to  a ball 
of  froth.  Whip  the  cream  with  a table- 
spoonful  or  two  of  strawberry- juice 
and  3 ozs.  of  powdered  sugar,  mix  with 
Y\  oz.  of  gelatine  melted  in  a trifle  of 
water,  and  fill  the  heart  of  the  tinted 
shell.  A moment  before  serving  in- 
vert the  cream  on  to  a plate. 

Tapioca  Cream. — One  quart  of 
milk,  two  and  a half  teaspoonfuls  of 
tapioca,  three  eggs ; beat  the  yolks 
with  one  cupful  of  sugar  ; put  the  tapi- 
oca in  the  milk ; heat  and  dissolve, 
then  put  in  the  yolks  with  the  sugar 
and  boil ; froth  tl^  whites  and  stir  in. 

\ 


Crbme  de  Menthe.  See  Beverages. 
Creole  Catsup.  See  Pickles. 


Velvet  Cream.  — One  coffee-cupful 
of  wine,  two-thirds  of  a box  of  gelatine 
dissolved  in  one  pint  of  water,  one 
coffee-cupful  of  sugar  ; set  the  mixture 
over  the  fire  and  let  it  come  to  a boil  ; 
strain  it  through  a flannel  bag ; when 
it  is  nearly  cold,  add  a pint  of  good, 
rich  cream.  Beat  all  well  together 
and  put  into  a mould. 

Whipped  Cream.  — The  white  of 
one  egg  should  be  allowed  for  every 
pint  of  good,  thick  cream.  If  this  can- 
not be  procured,  more  eggs  must  be 
used.  Sweeten  and  flavor  the  cream 
before  using  it.  By  rubbing  the  rind 
of  a lemon  upon  3 ozs.  of  loaf  sugar 
and  pounding  it  in  a mortar,  then  mix- 
ing it  with  a glass  of  sherry  or  half 
a glass  of  brandy,  the  white  of  an  egg 
beaten  to  a solid  froth,  and  afterwards 
with  the  cream.  Whip  it  to  a froth. 
As  it  rises,  take  it  off  by  table-spoon- 
fuls and  put  it  on  a sieve  to  drain. 
It  is  a good  plan  to  whip  the  cream 
the  day  before  it  is  wanted,  as  it  is  so 
much  firmer.  It  should  be  made  and 
kept  in  a cool  place.  It  may  be  served 
in  a variety  of  ways,  either  in  glasses 
or  in  a glass  dish,  when  it  should  be 
prettily  garnished,  or  surrounded  by 
sponge  cake,  macaroons,  or  nut  fruit. 


Cream  Nectar.  See  Beverages. 

Soda. 

Muffins. 

See  Bread. 

Puffs. 

See  Cakes. 

Candy. 

See  Candy. 

Chocolates. 

,, 

Dates. 

Walnut. 

Cheese. 

See  Cheese. 

Devonshire,  Clotted. 

See  Devonshire. 

Stuffing.  See 

Force-meats. 

Jelly. 

See  Jellies. 

Pie. 

See  Pies. 

Salad  Dressing. 

See  Salads. 

Soups. 

See  Soups. 

Creole  Cream. 

See  Creams. 

Cress  and  Celery  Salad.  See  Salads. 


Croquettes 


CURRANTS 


Curry- 


Croquettes  are  any  cooked  meats, 
vegetables,  etc.,  minced,  rolled  into 
balls,  cylinders,  or  fancy  shapes,  and 
fried  by  immersion  in  hot  lard.  They 
are  served  alone  or  with  an  appro- 
priate sauce,  usually  on  a napkin 
with  a garnish  of  parsley,  etc.  This 
is  a favorite  way  of  using  up  the 
remains  of  any  dish.  See  Beef,  Veal, 
Fish,  Vegetables,  etc. 

Croustades.  — These  are  patties 
made  very  much  of  the  same  shape  as 
vol-au-vents,  bread  being  used  instead 
of  puff  paste.  They  are  best  made 
as  follows  : Cut  thick  slices  from  a 

roll,  scoop  a hollow  in  the  centre,  and 
fry  them  in  hot  fat  till  they  are  lightly 
browned.  Drain,  and  dry  them  in  the 
oven  for  a few  minutes.  They  should 
then  be  filled  with  very  nicely  seasoned 
mince,  moistened  with  a little  stiff 
white  sauce.  The  crust  of  the  roll 
may  be  removed  or  not  before  fry- 
ing. 

Croutons  for  Soup. —Take  one  or 
two  slices  of  stale  bread  a quarter  of 
an  inch  thick.  Remove  the  crust 
and  cut  them  into  small  dice  not  more 
than  a quarter  of  an  inch  square. 
Half  fill  an  iron  saucepan  with  fat 
and  let  this  heat  until  a blue  smoke 
rises  from  it.  Put  the  crofitons  a 
few  at  a time  into  a frying- basket, 
plunge  them  into  the  fat,  and  shake 
them  about  until  they  are  a golden- 
brown  color.  Turn  them  upon  brown 
paper  to  free  them  from  grease ; take 
another  spoonful  and  proceed  as 
before  until  a sufficient  quantity  are 
fried.  Put  them  upon  a dish  covered 
with  a napkin  and  hand  around 
with  the  soup.  Sometimes  the 
crofitons  are  put  into  the  soup- tu- 
reen and  the  soup  is  poured  over 
them. 


and  thinly  sliced,  makes  very  good 
pastry;  but  a mixture  of  lard  and 
dripping,  or  lard  and  butter,  makes  a 
better  crust  than  lard  alone.  Time 
to  prepare,  twenty  minutes.  See 
Pies. 


Cucumbers.— -The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  cucumbers  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Cucumber  and  Fish  Salad. 

See  Fish. 

..  Catsup.  See  Pickles. 

..  in  Mustard. 

..  Pickled. 

..  Sweet  Pickle. 

..  Salad.  See  Salads. 

..  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

..  Stuffed.  See  Vegetables. 


Cup  Cake. 


See  Cakes. 


Currants.  — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  currants  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Currants,  Compote  of.  See  Fruits. 

..  Fool. 

..  Frosted. 

..  Solid. 

To  Keep. 

..  Shrub.  See  Beverages. 
..  Wine. 

..  ShortCake.  See  Cakes. 

••  Ice*  See  Ices. 

..  Mousse. 

..  Catsup.  See  Pickles. 

..  and  Red  Raspberry  Tart. 

See  Pies. 

..  Meringue  Pie. 

Pie. 

..  Tarts. 

..  Conserve.  See  Preserves. 

..  Jelly. 

..  Spiced. 

Syrup. 


Crullers.  See  Cakes. 

Crust,  Lard  or  Suet. — Rub  y2  lb. 
of  lard  or  suet  into  i lb.  of  flour ; add  a 
pinch  of  salt,  and  make  it  into  a paste 
by  mixing  with  it  a cupful  of  water. 
The  unmelted  lard,  freed  from  skin 


Curry. — Take  of  beef,  lamb,  mutton, 
chicken,  or  game  i y2  lbs. ; cut  in  small 
pieces  and  stew  until  tender,  not  broken. 
Set  this  aside  until  you  have  one 
onion  cut  fine  and  browned  in  but- 
ter and  lard.  Then  add  the  powder 
(the  components  of  which  are  named 


Curry  Liquid 


CUSTARDS 


Apple  Custard 


below),  stirring  all  the  time.  To 
this  should  be  added  a little  sweet 
milk.  Turn  into  this  the  already 
prepared  meat,  of  whatever  kind. 
If  much  dressing  or  gravy  be  de- 
sired, some  of  the  broth  in  which 
the  meat  has  been  stewed  may  be 
added. 

Curry  Liquid.  — Three  ounces  of 
curry  powder  in  a quart  of  wine  vine- 
gar, soaked  three  weeks,  then  strained 
and  bottled.  A dessert  - spoonful  of 
this  will  flavor  half  a pint  of  gravy. 

Curry  Powder.  — Powdered  tur- 
meric, oz. ; ground  coriander  seed, 
2 drachms  ; ground  cloves,  10  grains; 
ground  cardamom  seed,  I drachm  ; 
ground  cinnamon,  3 drachms  ; ground 
ginger,  3 drachms.  Salt  and  black 
pepper  to  suit  the  taste.  If  a “ hot  ” 
curry  be  preferable,  add  a dash  or  two 
of  red  pepper,  a little  mace,  cumin,  and 
nutmeg,  or  garlic,  lemon,  and  Worces- 
tershire sauce  are  sometimes  added. 
All  these  ingredients  are  easily  procur- 
able at  any  good  drug-store,  and  the 
powder  should  be  kept  in  a tightly 
corked  bottle.  Of  this  powder  use  one 
and  a half  table  - spoonfuls  for  the 
amount  of  meat  named  on  opposite 
page.  This  curry  should  be  served 
with  rice  always,  the  meat  and  ac- 
companying gravy  to  be  poured  upon 
the  rice  at  the  table.  The  rice  should 
be  cooked  soft,  yet  with  the  grains  sep- 
arate and  flaky. 


Curry  Sauce. — Made  with  the  or- 
dinary curry  powder  as  bought  at  the 
grocer's.  Put  a large  spoonful  of 
butter  into  a saucepan  over  the  fire ; 
add  one  onion,  cut  into  slices;  and 
cook  until  the  onion  is  lightly  brown- 
ed. Then  stir  in  one  teaspoonful  of 
curry  powder  and  add  gradually  a 
generous  cup  of  brown  gravy  or 
rich  stock.  Let  the  mixture  boil 
fifteen  minutes ; then  flavor  with 
lemon  - juice  and  strain  through  a 
coarse  sieve  and  the  sauce  is  ready 
to  serve. 

Another  way : — Into  the  hot  sauce- 
pan put  two  spoonfuls  of  butter,  one 
large  onion,  and  two  sour  apples, 
chopped  fine.  Stir  until  they  com- 
mence to  color,  then  sprinkle  in  one 
table-spoonful  of  flour  and  a heaping 
teaspoonful  of  curry  powder,  and  stir 
well  together.  Gradually  add  one 
cupful  of  rich  stock  and  half  a cupful 
of  milk.  Let  the  sauce  cook  fifteen 
minutes ; then  strain  and  serve.  See 
also  Sauces. 

The  following  recipes  for  curried 
dishes  will  be  found  under  their,  re- 
spective heads  as  indicated  : 

Curried  Beef.  See  Beef. 

..  Eggs.  See  Eggs. 

Fish.  See  Fish. 

..  Force-meat  Balls. 

See  Force-meats. 

..  Game.  See  Game. 

..  Mutton.  See  Mutton. 

..  Veal.  See  Veal. 


CUSTARDS 


Almond  Custard. — Place  over  the 
stove  one  pint  of  milk,  in  which  put 
one  large  handful  of  bitter  almonds 
that  have  been  blanched  and  broken 
up.  Let  it  boil  until  highly  flavored 
with  the  almonds  ; then  strain  and  set 
it  aside  to  cool.  Boil  one  quart  of  rich 
milk,  and  when  cold  add  the  flavored 
milk,  half  a pint  of 'sugar,  and  eight 
eggs,  the  yolks  and  whites  beaten 
separately,  stirring  all  well  together. 


Bake  in  cups,  and  when  cold  place  a 
macaroon  on  top  of  each  cup. 

Apple  Custard.  — Take  4 lbs.  of 
finely  flavored  apples,  and  stew  them 
gently,  till  tender,  with  a pint  and  a 
half  of  water,  1 lb.  of  sugar,  and  a lit- 
tle cinnamon.  Strain  the  liquid,  and 
stir  into  it,  very  gradually,  eight  well- 
beaten  eggs.  Put  the  mixture  into  a 
saucepan  and  stir  it  until  it  thickens, 


Apple  Sponge 


CUSTARDS 


Boiled  Custard 


which  will  be  in  about  ten  minutes. 
Pour  into  custard-glasses,  and  cover 
with  sifted  sugar. 

Apple  Sponge — Take  six  or  eight 
apples,  pare,  core,  and  cut  them  in 
pieces*;  add  a small  quantity  of  water, 
and  stew  them  until  soft.  When  en- 
tirely soft,  remove  from  the  fire,  strain 
through  a colander,  add  a very  small 
piece  of  butter,  and  let  them  get  cold. 
In  a glass  dish  arrange  slices  of  sponge 
cake  or  lady  fingers,  covering  the  bot- 
tom and  sides ; pour  in  enough  wine 
to  soak  the  cake  at  the  bottom,  and, 
a little  at  a time,  enough  to  moisten 
that  on  the  sides  ; if  any  is  left  that  has 
not  been  absorbed,  take  it  out  with  a 
spoon.  Have  ready  small  glasses  of 
raspberry  and  quince  jelly ; put  these 
on  the  cake  in  layers,  so  as  to  make 
the  two  colors  appear  to  advantage. 
To  the  apples  add  sugar  to  taste,  and 
stir  lightly  in  the  well-beaten  whites 
of  five  eggs ; pour  this  over  the  cake, 
etc.,  in  the  bowl.  Cream  can  be  eaten 
with  it,  or  a custard  may  be  made  with 
the  yolks  of  the  five  eggs  and  three 
pints  of  milk. 

Apricot  Custard. — Line  a pie-dish 
with  a good  short  crust  and  then 
spread  smoothly  at  the  bottom  a layer 
of  apricot  marmalade  about  an  inch 
in  thickness,  and  pour  over  it  a cus- 
tard made  of  a pint  of  new  milk,  three 
eggs,  and  a teaspoonful  of  ground  rice, 
a little  sugar,  and  four  drops  of  the 
essence  of  almonds.  Bake  in  a quick 
oven.  Time  to  bake,  fifteen  minutes. 

Baked  Custard. — Beat  the  yolks  of 
four  fresh  eggs  for  at  least  half  an 
hour;  add  5 ozs.  of  pulverized  white 
sugar,  then  stir  into  the  sugar  and 
eggs  one  quart  of  rich,  new  milk,  cold. 
Add  a teaspoonful  of  distilled  rose- 
water, or  any  flavoring  extract  you 
fancy.  Fill  your  custard-cups,  and 
set  them  in  a stone  pan  half  filled  with 
water,  which  may  be  warm  at  first — 
not  hot.  Put  the  pan  in  a rather  cool 
oven,  and  gradually  increase  to  a mod- 
erate heat.  In  about  twenty  minutes 
dip  a teaspoon  into  one  of  the  custards 


to  ascertain  if  it  is  firm.  Judgment 
and  great  care  are  needed  to  attain 
skill  in  baking  custard,  for  if  left  in 
the  oven  a minute  too  long,  or  if  the 
fire  is  too  hot,  the  milk  will  certainly 
whey. 

Banana  Custard. — Dissolve  half  a 
package  of  gelatine  in  half  a cupful  of 
cold  milk.  Peel  and  grate  pineapple 
enough  to  make  three  cupfuls.  Beat 
light  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  and  add  to 
them  one  cupful  of  sugar,  a pinch  of 
salt,  and  one  gill  of  cold  milk.  When 
one  pint  of  milk  in  a double  boiler  is  at 
boiling-point,  stir  in  the  pineapple  and 
the  soaked  gelatine,  and  then  add  the 
egg  mixture.  Cook  for  two  minutes, 
stirring  all  the  while;  remove  from 
the  fire  and  stand  the  boiler  in  a pan 
of  cold  water,  and  stir  until  the  mixt- 
ure becomes  cool.  Turn  into  a mould 
and  place  in  the  refrigerator  for  three 
or  four  hours. 

Banana  Trifle.  — Peel  and  slice 
three  bananas  and  lay  them  in  a shal- 
low glass  dish  in  alternate  layers,  with 
four  lady  fingers  split  and  broken  in 
halves  and  four  macaroons  rolled  fine. 
Put  in  a saucepan  one  cupful  of 
milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  a 
pinch  of  salt.  When  hot,  add  two  tea- 
spoonfuls of  corn-starch  dissolved  in 
a little  cold  milk  ; stir  until  it  thickens. 

Boiled  Custard.  — To  give  a recipe 
for  a dish  so  common  may  seem  super- 
fluous. But  custard,  which  is  de- 
licious' if  well  made,  has  suffered 
greatly  in  reputation  from  ill-con- 
cocted fluids  being  served  up  iri  its 
much-abused  name.  By  no  means 
use  the  whites  of  eggs  in  making 
either  baked  or  boiled  custard,  if 
you  wish  the  flavor  to  be  fine,  and 
the  yolks  of  eggs  must  be  beaten 
thoroughly.  Put  on  to  boil  one  gal- 
lon of  fresh  milk.  To  this  quantity 
allow  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  beaten 
well.  When  the  eggs  are  sufficiently 
light,  add  I % lbs.  of  powdered  white 
sugar.  The  very  minute  the  milk 
boils  up,  pour  it  gradually  from  the 
kettle  into  the  bowl  of  eggs  and  sugar. 


Burned  Custard 


CUSTARDS 


Gooseberry  Custard 


stirring  constantly  while  so  doing. 
When  well  mixed,  return  to  the  ket- 
tle immediately,  and  to  the  fire.  Stir 
rapidly  until  the  custard  is  properly 
thickened.  Remove  from  the  fire, 
and  set  in  a cool  place.  It  is  good 
only  when  perfectly  cold.  Vanilla 
is  the  generally  admired  seasoning, 
but  lemon  is  grateful  to  most  tastes. 

Burned  Custard. — Fill  a glass  bowl 
nearly  full  with  three  pints  of  nice, 
boiled  custard.  Beat  until  perfectly 
light  the  whites  of  six  eggs.  To  each 
egg  allow  one  table-spoonful  of  pul- 
verized white  sugar,  which  add  gradu- 
ally, beating  all  the  time.  Heap  the 
bowl  with  this  meringue,  and  with  an 
iron  plate  or  clean  shovel,  heated  red- 
hot,  brown  well  all  over  until  the  deli- 
cate, much-admired  flavor  is  imparted 
that  gives  this  the  name  of  burned 
custard. 

Burned  Custard. — Make  a custard 
of  one  quart  of  milk  and  five  eggs. 
Put  in  a tin  pan  on  the  stove  three 
and  a half  table-spoonfuls  of  brown 
sugar ; stir  constantly  until  melted ; 
then  spread  around  the  sides  of  a bak- 
ing-dish, pour  in  the  custard,  but  do 
not  stir  it.  Place  the  pan  in  one  of 
boiling  water,  and  bake  in  the  oven. 

Chocolate  Custard.  — Break  the 
chocolate  in  pieces,  put  in  a double 
boiler  with  milk  enough  to  barely  cover 
it ; mash  and  stir  perfectly  smooth, 
then  add  one  and  a half  pints  of  milk, 
one  cupful  of  sugar,  the  beaten  yolks 
of  six  eggs,  a heaping  table -spoonful 
of  corn-starch  dissolved  in  milk ; stir 
all  slowly  into  the  boiling  milk  in 
which  the  chocolate  is  dissolved,  add 
a pinch  of  salt,  and  let  cook  a few 
minutes,  stirring  constantly. 

Coffee  Custard. — For  six  cups  meas- 
ure out  four  cupfuls  of  boiled  milk; 
put  it  in  a basin,  with  one  cupful  of 
very  strong  coffee;  add  five  yolks  of 
eggs  and  i x/z  ozs.  of  pounded  sugar ; 
mix  well,  and  strain  through  a sieve 
or  gravy-strainer.  Fill  the  cups -with 
the  mixture,  skim  off  carefully  all  froth 


from  the  surface,  put  them  into  a flat 
stewpan,  with  boiling  water  to  half  the 
height  of  the  cups ; put  the  stewpan, 
with  live  coals  on  its  cover,  on  a very 
slow  fire  for  fifteen  minutes ; the  water 
should  only  bubble  slightly.  When 
set,  let  the  custards  cool  in  the  water. 
Vanilla  and  lemon  custards  may  be 
made  in  the  same  way,  using  flavoring 
of  vanilla  or  lemon  instead  of  coffee. 

Custard  Pudding.  — Dissolve  two 
even  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch  in 
half  a teacupful  of  sweet  milk ; boil  two 
cups  of  milk,  and  just  as  it  comes  to  a 
boil  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs, 
the  dissolved  corn- starch,  with  three 
and  a half  cupfuls  of  pulverized  sugar  ; ‘ 
flavor  with  the  grated  rind  of  two 
lemons,  adding  the  juice  also  the  last 
thing.  Bake  in  puff  paste  on  pie- 
plates.  When  the  pudding  is  nearly 
done,  add  a meringue  on  top. 

Floating  Island. — One  pint  of  sweet 
milk  in  a double  boiler,  the  whites  of 
four  eggs,  beaten  stiff,  added  to  the 
milk ; let  them  warm ; turn  over  with 
a spoon  in  pieces ; dip  out  and  stir  care- 
fully into  the  milk  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs  with  four  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar 
and  any  flavoring  desired.  Beat  well 
together.  Do  not  boil,  but  let  it  thick- 
en. When  cool,  pour  into  a large, 
glass  dish ; then  put  on  the  whites 
and  sprinkle  with  white  sugar. 

Frozen  Custard. — One  quart  of  rich 
milk,  four  eggs,  one  cupful  of  granu- 
lated sugar,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
vanilla  or  bitter-almond  extract.  Beat 
the  eggs  and  sugar  to  a cream  and  add 
the  milk.  Put  all  in  a double  boiler, 
and  cook  till  the  froth  disappears  from 
the  top  of  the  custard  and  it  feels  thick 
as  you  stir  it.  The  eggs  and  sugar 
may  be  stirred  into  boiling-hot  milk, 
which  hastens  the  cooking,  but  it  is 
more  apt  to  curdle  the  custard  than 
when  cold  milk  is  used.  Set  away  to 
cool,  then  add  flavoring,  and  freeze. 

Gooseberry  Custard. — Boil  a quart 
of  gooseberries  in  half  a pint  of  water. 
Add  a piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a wal- 


Jelly  Custard 


CUSTARDS  Maraschino  Flummery 


nut.  Boil  the  gooseberries  quickly, 
and,  when  soft,  pulp  them  through  a 
sieve.  Add  34  lb.  of  sugar  and  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs.  Stir  over  the  fire 
until  thick,  but  the  berries  must  not 
boil.  Serve  in  a glass  dish,  or  in  cus- 
tard-glasses. Time,  boil  till  soft — 
about  fifteen  minutes. 

Jelly  Custard. — Put  a pint  of  new 
milk  into  a saucepan,  sweeten  and 
flavor  according  to  taste,  and  when  it 
is  lukewarm  pour  it  over  the  yolks 
of  six  well-beaten,  fresh  eggs.  Stir 
it  over  the  fire  until  it  is  thick,  but  it 
must  not  boil ; then  add  I oz.  of  dis- 
solved gelatine.  Soak  half  a dozen 
small  moulds  of  different  sizes  in 
water,  pour  in  the  custard,  and  when 
firmly  set  turn  out  the  moulds,  arrange 
them  prettily  on  a dish,  and  pour  over 
them  a syrup  flavored  with  lemon 
peel  and  colored  with  two  or  three 
drops  of  cochineal.  Time,  half  an 
hour  to  prepare. 

Lemon  Custard  (without  cream 
or  milk).  — Put  the  thin  rind  of  two 
lemons  into  three-quarters  of  a pint 
of  cold  water,  and  soak  until  the 
flavor  is  extracted.  Boil  the  liquid, 
and  pour  it  gradually  over  the  yolks 
of  eight  eggs  which  have  been  beaten 
briskly  for  several  minutes.  Strain 
the  juice  of  the  lemons  over  % lb. 
of  sugar,  add  a quarter  of  a pint  of 
water,  and  boil  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved.  Put  all  together  into  a 
jug,  place  this  in  a saucepan  of  boil- 
ing water,  and  stir  one  way  until  the 
custard  thickens.  A table-spoonful 
of  brandy  and  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  Madeira  may  be  added,  if  liked ; 
many  think  them  a great  improve- 
ment. Time,  half  an  hour  to  make. 

Lemon  Floating  Island.  — Take 
half  a dozen  fresh  eggs,  separate  the 
whites  and  the  yolks  ; beat  the  whites 
to  a solid  froth,  sweeten  them,  and  fla- 
vor with  two  or  three  drops  of  the  es- 
sence of  lemon.  Beat  the  yolks,  mix 
them  with  a pint  and  a half  of  milk, 
flavor  with  lemon,  and  stir  the  custard 
over  a gentle  fire  until  it  thickens,  but 


it  must  not  boil.  When  nearly  cool, 
add  very  gradually  a table-spoonful 
of  lemon  juice.  Pour  it  into  a glass 
dish  and  pile  the  whites  upon  it. 
Garnish  according  to  taste.  A small 
piece  of  red-currant  jelly  placed  here 
and  there  is  an  improvement,  or  half 
of  the  froth  may  be  thickly  colored 
with  cochineal.  Time,  a few  minutes 
to  thicken  the  custard. 

Lemon  Meringue  Custard,  Baked. 

— One  quart  of  milk,  five  eggs,  one 
table-spoonful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of 
sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch, 
two  lemons.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs  light,  and  stir  into  them  the  but- 
ter creamed  with  the  sugar,  and  the 
juice  and  grated  rind  of  the  lemons. 
Dissolve  the  corn-starch  in  the  milk, 
and  add  this  to  the  other  ingredients. 
Bake  in  a buttered  pudding  - dish 
until  the  custard  is  set,  then  cover  it 
with  a meringue  made  of  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  whipped  stiff  with  a quarter 
of  a cupful  of  sugar,  and  brown  very 
lightly.  Eat  cold. 

Maple  Cream  Custards.  — Heat  a 
pint  of  milk  to  scalding.  Stir  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  granulated  sugar 
into  the  unbeaten  whites  of  three 
eggs — stirring,  not  beating — and  pour 
the  hot  milk  upon  it.  Wet  the  inside 
of  custard-cups  with  cold  water,  fill 
them  with  the  mixture,  set  the  cups 
in  a pan  of  hot  water,  cover  them 
closely,  and  bake  in  a moderate  oven 
until  the  custards  are  firm.  When 
cold,  turn  out  on  a flat  dish,  cover 
with  whipped  cream,  and  strew  all 
thickly  with  grated  maple  sugar. 

Maraschino  Flummery. — Add  6 ozs. 
of  sugar  to  one  quart  of  milk ; bring  it 
to  a boil ; stir  in  4 ozs.  of  either  potato 
or  wheat  flour  which  has  previously 
been  mixed  smooth  with  a little  cold 
milk,  and  continue  stirring  until  it 
thickens  into  a smooth,  tolerably 
thick  mass.  Remove  from  the  fire 
and  set  it  to  cool  for  a time ; then  add 
the  whites  of  six  eggs,  beaten  to  a 
stiff  froth,  and  a wineglassful  of  mar- 
aschino ; pour  into  a wet  mould — the 


92 


Mock  Gooseberry-fool  CUSTARDS 


Peaches  in  Custard 


mould  should  be  filled  with  cold  water 
a few  minutes  before  using,  and 
emptied  when  wanted  to  receive  the 
flummery — and  let  it  stand  until  cold. 
Turn  out  upon  a pretty  dish,  and 
serve  with  a sauce  prepared  as  fol- 
lows : Boil  gently  one  pint  of  cream, 
4 ozs.  of  sugar,  and  eight  bitter  al- 
monds, chopped  fine,  for  about  five 
minutes;  remove  from  the  fire,  add 
the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  stirring 
quickly  to  prevent  cooking,  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  potato  flour ; strain 
through  a sieve,  and  flavor  to  taste 
with  maraschino. 

Mock  Gooseberry-fool. — Cut  up  and 

scrape  as  much  rhubarb  as  will  be 
enough  to  half  fill  a glass  bowl  of  the 
size  you  wish  to  use.  Stew  in  enough 
water  to  cover  it  well.  When  tender, 
rub  through  a colander  to  a smooth 
pulp.  To  a quart  of  the  fruit,  well 
sweetened  and  flavored  with  lemon- 
peel,  add  a quart  of  sweet  cream, 
stirred  smoothly  in  till  well  mixed. 
Heap  the  bowl  up  high  with  whipped 
syllabub.  If  you  have  no  cream,  sub- 
stitute a quart  of  custard  made  with 
the  yolks  of  six  eggs.  In  place  of 
the  syllabub,  use  the  whisked  whites 
of  the  six  eggs,  sweetened  with  six 
table -spoonfuls  of  fine  white  sugar, 
and  brown  the  top  slight^  with  a hot 
salamander  or  clean  shovel. 

Orange  Custards.  — One  quart  of 
milk,  five  eggs,  three  large  or  four 
small  oranges,  one  cupful  of  sugar, 
one  small  table  - spoonful  of  corn- 
starch. Heat  the  milk  to  boiling,  and 
stir  into  it  the  sugar  and  the  corn- 
starch wet  up  in  a little  cold  milk. 
Cook  five  minutes,  and  pour  it  upon 
the  yolks  of  the  five  eggs,  beaten  light. 
Return  to  the  fire,  and  cook  until  the 
custard  becomes  thick  and  creamy. 
This  will  require  about  ten  minutes. 
Take  from  the  fire,  and  when  it  has 
stood  a few  moments  stir  into  it  the 
juice  of  all  the  oranges  and  the  grated 
peel  of  two.  Turn  the  custard  into 
cups  or  into  a bowl,  and  when  it  is 
perfectly  cold  and  about  to  be  served 
heap  on  top  of  it  the  whites  of  the 


eggs  beaten  stiff  with  a couple  of 
table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 

Orange  Trifle. — Soak  half  a pack- 
age of  gelatine  in  a cupful  of  cold 
water.  Put  in  a saucepan  the  juice  of 
three  oranges,  the  grated  rind  of  one, 
and  one  cupful  of  powdered  sugar. 
Add  to  the  soaked  gelatine  a cupful  of 
boiling  water,  and  when  dissolved  pour 
over  the  orange  mixture.  Put  it  in  a 
double  boiler.  Stir  a moment,  adding 
the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and 
remove  the  pan  from  the  fire.  When 
the  mixture  becomes  perfectly  cold 
and  begins  to  set,  beat  in  vigorously 
one  pint  of  cream  that  has  been 
whipped  light.  Wet  a mould  with 
cold  water,  fill  with  the  mixture,  and 
set  away  to  harden. 

Peach  Custard. — One  table-spoon- 
ful of  corn-starch,  mixed  smooth  in  a 
little  cold  water ; add  to  this  half  a cup- 
ful of  sugar  and  a piece  of  butter  the 
size  of  a walnut.  When  mixed,  put 
in  a stewpan  and  pour  on  a pint  of 
boiling  water ; stir  in  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  beaten  light,  and  cook  until 
thick.  When  cold,  add  half  a dozen 
peaches  peeled  and  minced  quite 
fine.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to 
a stiff  froth,  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  sugar  and  two  of  minced  peaches. 

Peaches  in  Custard. — Select  large, 
ripe,  freestone  peaches.  Peel  them 
carefully.  Open  each  just  far 
enough  to  enable  you  to  extract  the 
stone  and  to  slip  into  its  place  a 
maraschino  cherry.  Have  ready  a 
custard  made  by  cooking  together  in 
a double  boiler  three  cupfuls  of  milk 
and  four  table  - spoonfuls  of  sugar 
until  the  milk  is  scalding  hot  and  the 
sugar  entirely  dissolved,  and  then 
adding  slowly  the  separately  beaten 
yolks  and  whites  of  five  eggs.  Stir 
the  custard  constantly  until  it  thick- 
ens, and  let  it  become  thoroughly 
cold  before  flavoring  it  with  a little 
maraschino.  When  this  has  been 
done,  dip  each  peach  in  the  custard, 
and  then  sprinkle  it  with  powdered 
sugar.  Arrange  the  peaches  in  a 


93 


Plum  Custard 


CUSTARDS 


Rice  Custard 


deep  dish,  and  put  this  in  ice.  It 
may  be  set  in  a pan  and  cracked  ice 
heaped  about  it,  that  the  fruit  may  be 
completely  chilled.  Set  the  custard 
also  where  it  will  become  very  cold. 
Just  before  serving  pour  the  re- 
mainder of  the  custard  around  the 
peaches — not  over  them — and  heap 
whipped  cream  on  top  of  the  fruit. 
This  dessert  is  especially  good  when 
made  from  fresh  peaches,  but  in 
winter  the  preserved  fruit  may  be 
used,  or  even  canned  peaches.  Of 
the  latter,  however,  only  the  very 
best  quality  will  serve. 

Plum  Custard.  — Stone  and  stew 
a pint  of  plums.  Lay  them  in  the 
bottom  of  a pudding  - dish,  sprinkle 
with  sugar,  and  pour  over  them  a 
cream  made  by  cooking  together  un- 
til thick  and  smooth  two  cupfuls 
of  milk  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour,  and  adding  to  this  after  it  comes 
from  the  fire  a table  - spoonful  of 
butter  and  the  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
beaten  light.  Bake  the  cream-cover- 
ed plums  ten  minutes,  cover  them  with 
a meringue  made  of  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  beaten  with  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  powdered  sugar,  brown  lightly, 
and  eat  cold  with  cream. 

Quince  Custard. — Pare  the  quinces, 
and  simmer  them  gently  till  they  are 
tender,  in  as  much  water  as  will  bare- 
ly cover  them.  Pour  off  the  juice  and 
strain  it  through  a jelly-bag.  Boil  a 
pint  of  it  with  5 ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  and 
mix  it  very  gradually  while  hot  with 
the  yolks  of  ten  well -beaten  eggs. 
Pour  the  custard  into  a heated  jug, 
put  this  into  a saucepan  of  hot  water, 
and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  cus- 
tard begins  to  thicken.  Pour  it  into 
glasses  and  it  is  ready  for  serving. 

Raspberry  Custard.— Bruise  lightly 
some  freshly  gathered,  ripe  raspber- 
ries ; sprinkle  a little  sugar  over  them, 
and  heat  them  gently  to  draw  out  the 
juice.  Pour  the  juice  off,  and  with  a 
pint  of  it  mix  very  gradually  the  well- 
beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs.  Stir  the 
custard  over  a gentle  fire  for  a few 


minutes,  pour  it  out,  and  when  it  is 
cool  mix  with  it  a table-spoonful  of 
strained  lemon-juice  and  a quarter 
of  a pint  of  thick  cream.  Serve  in 
glasses.  Time,  six  or  seven  minutes 
to  heat  the  custard. 

Raspberry  - fool.  — Put  a pint  of 

raspberries  into  a saucepan  with  % 
lb.  of  loaf  sugar,  and  let  them  stew 
till  tender.  Rub  them  through  a sieve 
with  the  back  of  a wooden  spoon,  and 
mix  with  the  pulp  as  much  cream 
or  milk  as  will  make  it  of  the  con- 
sistency of  custard.  Serve  cold. 
When  cream  is  not  to  be  had,  and  it  is 
desired  that  the  preparation  should 
be  richer  than  it  would  be  if  cream 
only  were  used,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 
may  be  added  to  three-quarters  of  a 
pint  of  milk  and  stirred  over  the  fire 
until  it  begins  to  thicken  without  boil- 
ing. Time,  ten  minutes  to  stew  the 
raspberries. 

Raspberry  Trifle.  — Six  small 

sponge  cakes,  such  as  are  sold  for  a 
cent  apiece  at  bakers’  shops,  one  quart 
of  milk,  five  eggs,  one  cupful  of  sugar, 
one  quart  of  red  raspberries,  one  cupful 
of  sweet  cream,  vanilla  for  flavoring. 
Make  a custard  of  the  milk,  the  sugar, 
and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  flavoring 
with  the  vanilla.  Split  the  cakes, 
lay  half  of  them  in  the  bottom  of  a 
glass  dish,  pour  over  them  half  the 
cream,  and  strew  thickly  with  the  ber- 
ries sprinkled  with  sugar.  Cover 
these  with  a second  layer  of  cake,  mois- 
tened with  the  rest  of  the  cream,  and 
spread  with  the  remainder  of  the  ber- 
ries. Pour  the  ice-cold  custard  over 
all ; beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a 
stiff  meringue  with  a little  powdered 
sugar;  mix  in  a handful  of  berries, 
and  heap  the  meringue  on  top  of  the 
trifle. 

Rice  Custard. — Cream  together  one 
table-spoonful  of  butter  and  four 
of  .sugar;  stir  into  this  three  beaten 
eggs,  one  cupful  of  boiled  rice,  and  a 
quart  of  warm  (not  hot)  milk.  Beat 
all  together,  and  bake  in  a greased 
pudding-dish  until  the  custard  is  set. 

94 


Spanish  Custard 


CUSTARDS 


Cymbals 


Spanish  Custard. — Boil  the  grated 
rinds  of  two  lemons  and  the  juice  of 
one  in  a pint  of  water ; add  the  yolks 
of  fourteen  eggs  beaten  to  a cream 
and  sweetened  to  the  taste ; stir  it  one 
way  until  it  thickens.  When  taken  off 
the  fire  add  two  table  - spoonfuls  of 
brandy  and  half  a nutmeg,  grated. 

Strawberry  - fool.  — Take  a quart 
of  picked  strawberries,  ripe  and  finely 
flavored ; put  them  into  a saucepan 
with  % lb.  of  white  sugar,  cover  them 
closely,  and  let  them  stew  gently  for 
ten  minutes,  stirring  the  fruit  now 
and  again  to  keep  it  from  burning. 
Rub  it  through  a fine  hair  sieve  with 
a wooden  spoon,  and  when  it  is  cold 
stir  into  it  as  much  new  milk  as  will 
make  it  of  the  consistency  of  custard. 
Serve  quite  cold.  If  cream  is  not  to 
be  had,  and  a rich  dish  is  required, 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  may  be  mixed 
with  the  milk,  and  the  custard  may  be 
stirred  over  the  fire  till  it  is  on  the  point 
of  boiling.  Time,  ten  minutes  to  boil 
the  fruit. 

Strawberry  T rifle. — A quart  of  milk 
in  a saucepan  with  one  cupful  of  sugar, 
and  when  it  is  at  the  boiling  point  stir 
in  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs.  Stir 
constantly  for  a moment  and  remove 
from  the  fire.  Take  half  a dozen  lady 
fingers,  split,  and  dip  them  in  cream. 
Arrange  them  in  the  bottom  of  a glass 
dish,  then  a layer  of  strawberries, 
and  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar. 
Repeat  till  all  are  used  up,  then  pour 
the  custard  over  them.  Beat  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  light  and  sift  into 
them  four  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered 
sugar.  Color  this  meringue  with 
some  strawberry- juice,  put  it  over  the 
top  of  the  custard,  and  ornament  with 
a circle  of  ripe  berries.  Have  the  ma- 
terials very  cold  when  the  trifle  is  put 
together,  and  keep  in  a cold  place. 

Tapioca  Custard.  — Wash  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  tapioca,  and  boil  it 
gently  in  a pint  of  milk  until  it  is  quite 
soft,  stirring  it  frequently  to  keep  it 
from  getting  into  lumps.  Add  a 
piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a walnut  and 


two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  when 
these  are  thoroughly  mixed  draw  the 
saucepan  on  one  side  that  the  prepara- 
tion may  cool  a little.  Beat  four  fresh 
eggs  in  a bowl,  mix  gradually  with 
them  part  of  the  tapioca,  then  pour 
them  into  the  remainder  in  the  sauce- 
pan, and  stir  all  over  the  fire  until  the 
custard  is  on  the  point  of  boiling. 
Turn  it  out,  flavor  with  vanilla,  ratafia, 
almond,  or  any  other  flavoring,  and 
when  it  is  cold  put  it  into  a glass  dish. 
Just  before  serving,  crush  I oz.  of 
macaroons  to  powder  and  sprinkle 
them  over  the  surface,  or,  if  preferred, 
sift  a little  powdered  cinnamon  over 
the  top.  Time  to  simmer  the  tapioca, 
about  two  hours. 

Trifles. — Trifles  are  boiled  custards 
with  sponge  cake.  Cut  the  cake  into 
inch  squares,  heap  them  up  in  the 
bottom  of  the  bowl,  intersperse  with 
the  cake  thinly  pared  slices  of  citron, 
fill  the  bowl  with  custard,  and  top 
off  with  whipped  syllabub.  Flavor 
with  vanilla. 

Vanilla  Custard.  — Cut  half  a pod 
of  vanilla  in  pieces,  and  let  it  soak  for 
an  hour  in  a pint  of  milk  or  cream. 
Stir  four  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  into 
it,  and  when  this  is  dissolved  add 
the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two,  four,  or 
six  eggs.  Put  the  custard  in  a bowl, 
and  set  this  over  a saucepan  of  boiling 
water.  Keep  stirring  one  way  till  it 
begins  to  thicken,  but  it  must  not  boil. 
Stir  occasionally  till  it  is  cold,  and 
serve  in  a glass  dish  or  in  custard- 
cups.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to 
a firm  froth,  and  pile  this  on  the  cus- 
tard at  the  moment  of  serving.  Sift 
a little  white  sugar  upon  the  custard, 
and  it  will  be  ready  for  the  table.  If 
liked,  essence  of  vanilla  may  be  used 
instead  of  the  pod.  Time,  ten  to  fif- 
teen minutes  to  make  the  custard. 

Custard  Pie.  See  Pies. 

..  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

..  Rolls.  See  Cakes. 

..  Sauce  for  Puddings. 

Cymbals.  See  Cakes. 


95 


Dainty  Cake. 


See  Cakes. 


Damson  Short  Cake.  See  Cakes. 


Damsons. 
Dandelion  Salad. 
Dandy  Pudding. 


See  Fruit. 
See  Salads. 
See  Puddings. 


Darioles.  Small  moulds  for  Tim- 
bales. 


moved  for  twenty-four  hours  in  winter 
and  half  that  time  in  summer.  It  is 
then  scalded  over  a fire,  the  time  for 
scalding  depending  on  the  heat  of  the 
fire  and  the  quantity  of  milk  to  be 
scalded ; the  slower  it  is  done,  the 
better  and  the  thicker  will  be  the 
cream.  It  is  again  put  in  a cool  place 
for  eight  to  twelve  hours,  when  the 
cream  is  to  be  taken  off. 

Doughnuts.  See  Cakes. 


Dates,  Cream.  See  Candy.  Dried  Beef,  Creamed.  See  Beef. 


Decorations  for  Cakes. 

See  Cakes. 


Delicate  Cake.  See  Cakes. 


Desserts. — See  under  the  following 


heads : 

Cakes. 

Charlotte  Russes. 
Creams. 

Custards. 

Fritters. 

Fruits. 

Ices. 

Ice-creams. 

Devilled  Eggs. 
Devilled  Game. 


Jellies. 

Pies. 

Puddings. 

Salads. 

Souffles. 

Sweet  Omelets. 
(See  Eggs.) 
Etc. 

See  Eggs. 
See  Game. 


Devonshire  Clotted  Cream. — The 

highly  esteemed  clotted  cream  of 
Devonshire  is  procured  by  straining 
the  milk,  as  it  comes  fresh  from  the 
cow,  into  large  metal  pans,  which  are 
placed  in  a cool  dairy  and  kept  un- 


Dripping,  Clarified.  — Heat  the 
dripping  and  pour  it  into  boiling 
water.  Stir  it  for  three  or  four  min- 
utes, then  leave  it  to  get  cold.  The 
impurities  will  all  sink  to  the  bottom 
and  may  be  easily  removed.  Drip- 
ping may  be  used  many  times  for 
frying  purposes,  if  it  is  clarified  every 
time.  In  making  pastry,  good  beef 
dripping  is  very  much  to  be  preferred 
to  so-called  " cooking  ” butter. 


Dropped  Eggs. 


See  Eggs. 


Ducks. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  ducks  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated 


Duck,  Canvas-back. 
..  Roast  Wild. 

..  Wild. 

..  Roast. 

with  Celery. 

Duckling. 

Dumplings. 


See  Game. 

See  Poultry. 

See  Poultry. 
See  Puddings. 


E 


Easter  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

East  India  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Eau  Sucre. — This  is  a very  popular 
beverage  in  France.  A little  sugar 
and  boiling  water  are  the  only  in- 
gredients. It  is  considered  to  be 
soporific. 

Eclairs,  Chocolate.  See  Cakes. 


Eels. — The  following  recipes  for 
the  preparation  of  eels  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as  in- 
dicated : 

Eels,  Broiled.  See  Fish. 

Stewed. 

Soup.  See  Soups. 

Egg  Plant,  Baked.  See  Vegetables, 
with  Tomatoes.  .. 

..  ..  Stuffed. 


EGGS 


Egg  Balls. — To  one  egg  put  just 
as  little  flour  as  will  make  it  into  a 
paste  that  you  can  pinch  into  shape 
with  your  fingers.  Season  with  pep- 
per, a little  grated  nutmeg,  and  less 
chopped  lemon-peel  cut  very  thin. 
Work  these  into  pellets  the  size  of 
marbles,  making  a few  of  them  long, 
like  miniature  sausages.  Put  them 
into  boiling  broth,  and  let  them 
boil  galloping  till  their  substance  is 
set.  Used  for  turtle  and  other  rich 
soups. 

Eggs  a la  Bonne  Femme.  — Boil 
the  eggs  ten  minutes,  and,  when  cool 
enough,  remove  the  shells  carefully. 
Cut  from  each  the  pointed  tip  of  white 
and  take  out  the  yolks.  Alake  tiny 
dice  of  some  cold  chicken,  ham,  boiled 
beet-root,  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs. 
Fill  the  eggs  with  these  dice.  Ar- 
range some  neatly  cut  lettuce  on  a 
dish  and  place  the  eggs  among 
it ; or,  make  a moulded  ring  of 
boiled  rice,  put  the  eggs  in  the 
centre,  and  garnish  with  parsley 
or  lettuce. 

7 


Eggs,  Baked. — Set  into  the  oven 
until  quite  hot  a common  white  dish, 
large  enough  to  hold  the  number  of 
eggs  to  be  cooked,  allowing  plenty 
of  room  for  each.  Melt  in  it  a small 
piece  of  butter,  and,  breaking  the  eggs 
carefully  in  a saucer,  one  at  a time, 
slip  them  into  the  hot  dish  ; sprinkle 
over  them  a small  quantity  of  pepper 
and  salt,  and  allow  them  to  cook  four 
or  five  minutes.  Adding  a table- 
spoonful of  cream  for  every  two  eggs, 
when  the  eggs  are  first  slipped  in,  is  a 
great  improvement. 

Egg15?  Broiled. — Cut  slices  of  bread, 
toast  them  lightly,  trim  the  edges, 
and  lay  them  on  a dish  before  the 
fire,  with  some  bits  of  butter  placed 
on  top.  When  this  melts,  break 
and  spread  carefully  six  or  eight 
eggs  on  the  toast.  Have  ready  a 
salamander,  and,  when  the  eggs  are 
sufficiently  done,  squeeze  an  orange 
and  grate  some  nutmeg  over  them. 

Eggs,  Buttered. — Brown  some  but- 
ter in  a frying-pan,  and  break  five 


97 


Eggs  a la  Carmelite 


EGGS 


Eggs,  Fricasseed 


eggs  upon  a dish,  as  if  for  poaching, 
with  a seasoning  of  salt  and  nutmeg ; 
pour  some  of  the  butter  in  its  boiling 
state  over  them,  and  move  them 
gently  to  get  all  the  butter  about 
them ; put  the  dish  by  the  fire  to 
keep  hot,  and  finish  browning  the 
eggs  with  a red  - hot  shovel  if 
you  have  no  salamander.  Time  to 
brown  butter,  etc.,  about  ten  min- 
utes. 

Eggs  a la  Carmelite.  — Chop  some 
sorrel,  a little  parsley,  and  two  or 
three  small  boiled  onions  together ; 
add  the  yolks  of  six  hard-boiled  eggs, 
chopped  separately ; season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  and  mix  with  a little 
melted  butter.  Fill  the  whites  of  the 
eggs,  which  should  be  divided  in 
halves,  lengthways,  with  this  mixt- 
ure, and  warm  them  thoroughly  in  a 
white  sauce  composed  of  2 ozs.  of 
butter  and  a quarter  of  a pint  of 
cream,  with  a blade  of  mace  to  flavor. 
If  flour  be  used  it  should  be  only 
sufficient  to  prevent  the  butter  from 
oiling.  Serve  with  a little  lemon- 
juice  squeezed  into  the  sauce.  Time, 
twenty  minutes  to  boil  eggs. 

Eggs  a la  Crfeme.  — Hard  - boil 
twelve  eggs ; slice  them  thin  in  rings. 
In  the  bottom  of  a large  baking-dish 
place  a layer  of  grated  bread-crumbs, 
then  one  of  the  eggs  ; cover  with  bits 
of  butter,  and  sprinkle  with  pepper 
and  salt.  Continue  thus  to  blend 
these  ingredients  until  the  dish  is 
full ; be  sure,  though,  that  the  crumbs 
cover  the  eggs  upon  top.  Over  the 
whole  pour  a large  teacupful  of  sweet 
cream,  and  brown  nicely  in  a 
moderately  heated  oven. 

Eggs,  Curried. — Boil  .six  eggs  hard, 
throw  them  into  cold  water,  and  re- 
move the  shells.  Cut  each  egg  into 
four  thick  slices.  Put  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  butter  in  a frying-pan, 
and  when  it  melts  stir  into  it  a small 
onion,  minced.  As  this  browns,  add 
a table-spoonful  of  flour  into  which 
you  have  rubbed  a teaspoonful  of 
curry  powder.  Stir  until  well  blend- 


ed, pour  in  gradually  a cup  of  veal 
or  chicken  stock,  and  stir  to  a smooth 
sauce,  then  add  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  cream,  and  bring  to  the  boiling- 
point.  Lay  the  sliced  eggs  in  this 
sauce,  salt  to  taste,  and  cook  until  the 
eggs  are  thoroughly  heated. 

Eggs,  Devilled.  — Cut  four  hard- 
boiled  eggs  into  halves ; remove  the 
yolks  without  breaking  the  whites ; 
mix  the  yolks  with  a teaspoonful  of 
anchovy  sauce,  a little  cayenne 
pepper  and  salt,  and  fill  the  white 
cups  with  it ; set  them  to  stand,  by 
cutting  off  the  pointed  tip,  on  a dish, 
surround  them  with  small  cress  and 
finely  cut  lettuce. 

Eggs  Dropped  in  Milk.  — Put 
one  cupful  of  milk  in  the  chafing- 
dish  over  hot  water.  Break  several 
eggs,  one  at  a time,  into  a saucer,  and 
slip  each  one  into  the  hot  milk.  Dip 
the  milk  over  the  eggs  with  a spoon, 
being  careful  not  to  break  the  yolks. 
When  the  white  is  firm,  remove  each 
egg  to  a slice  of  hot  buttered  toast, 
moisten  with  a little  hot  milk,  and 
serve. 

Eggs  a la  Duchesse. — Flavor  one 
quart  of  milk  with  vanilla  or  orange- 
flower  water ; or,  if  preferred,  boil  it 
with  lemon-rind,  cinnamon,  and  laurel 
leaves  till  the  flavor  is  extracted ; 
sweeten  to  taste,  and  when  boiling 
have  ready  the  whites  of  four  eggs 
beaten  to  a froth.  Drop  these  from 
a spoon  into  the  boiling  milk,  turn 
the  eggs  until  they  are  done,  and  then 
place  them  io  drain.  Send  them  to 
table  in  a glass  dish,  with  a custard 
made  with  the  yolks  and  some  of  the 
milk  (with  additional  flavoring  if  re- 
quired) poured  over  them.  Time,  two 
minutes  to  poach  the  whites. 

Eggs,  Fricasseed. — Boil  three  eggs 
hard,  and  lay  them  in  cold  water. 
Melt  a slice  of  butter  in  a stewpan, 
and  throw  in  a small  onion,  finely 
chopped  ; fry  till  soft.  Mix  a dessert- 
spoonful of  flour  with  the  butter  to  a 
smooth  paste,  add  two  table-spoonfuls 


Eggs,  Fried 


EGGS 


Eggs  au  Miroir 


of  gravy,  and  stir  till  thick.  Cut  the 
eggs  into  quarters,  and  lay  them 
gently  in  the  gravy.  Shake  the  pan 
round,  then  throw  in  a small  cupful 
of  cream;  shake  the  pan  again,  but 
do  not  break  the  eggs.  When  the 
sauce  is  thick  and  fine,  put  the  eggs 
on  a dish  and  serve  with  the  sauce 
thrown  over,  and  a garnish  of  lemon 
round  the  dish.  Time,  ten  minutes 
to  boil  eggs,  ten  minutes  to  prepare 
the  fricassee. 

Eggs,  Fried.  — The  frying  - pan 
should  be  scrupulously  clean,  or  the 
white  part  of  the  eggs  will  be  spoiled. 
Dripping,  butter,  or  oil  majT  be  used. 
Break  the  eggs  first  into  a cup,  and 
slip  each  one  into  the  pan  as  soon 
as  it  is  hot.  As  the  eggs  fry,  raise 
their  edges  with  a slice,  give  them  a 
slight  shake,  and  ladle  a little  of 
the  butter  over  the  yolk.  In  two  or 
three  minutes  they  will  be  done ; 
take  them  out  and  pare  off  the  rough 
edges.  Serve  on  slices  of  bacon,  or 
lay  them  in  a dish  with  bacon  or  ham 
as  a garnish. 

Eggs,  Frothed. — Mix  the  juice  of  a 
lemon  with  a table-spoonful  of  water, 
and  beat  up  with  it  the  yolks  of  eight 
eggs  and  the  whites  of  four.  Sweeten 
to  taste,  and  add  a pinch  of  salt. 
Put  the  mixture  into  an  omelet-pan 
and  fry  carefully.  Have  ready  four 
whites  of  eggs  whipped  with  I lb. 
of  fine  sugar  to  a high  froth,  and 
flavored  with  vanilla  or  lemon.  Place 
the  omelet  on  a dish,  and  heap  the 
frothed  egg  over  it.  Brown  it  lightly 
in  an  oven  or  before  the  fire.  Time 
to  fry,  about  five  minutes. 

Eggs  au  Gratin. — Chop  very  fine 
an  anchovy,  a shallot,  and  a sprig 
of  parsley,  and  mix  them  with  three 
yolks  of  eggs  to  a small  cupful  of 
bread-crumbs  and  2 ozs.  of  butter; 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Have 
ready  a hot  dish ; butter  it  well,  and 
strew  the  mixture  over  the  bottom. 
Place  the  dish  in  the  oven,  and  brown 
it  slightly  ; then  break  half  a dozen 
eggs  into  separate  cups  and  slide 


them  neatly  on  to  the  dish,  after 
which  return  it  to  the  oven  for  three 
minutes,  or  until  the  whites  have  set. 
Serve  immediately. 

Eggs  and  Gravy.  — Put  a young, 
well-fed  fowl  into  a stewpan  with 
4 ozs.  of  butter,  some  spice,  a fagot 
of  herbs,  and  half  a dozen  small 
onions ; let  it  brown  slightly  and 
equally ; add  half  a pint  of  stock, 
close  the  lid  tightly,  and  finish  the 
cooking  over  a very  slow  fire.  Par- 
boil the  liver  of  the  fowl  in  some 
good  gravy,  remove  it,  and  poach 
half  a dozen  eggs  in  the  same  liquor. 
Rub  down  the  liver  to  a paste,  and 
use  it  to  thicken  the  gravy  in  which 
the  fowl  has  been  stewed.  Place  the 
fowl  on  a hot  dish,  with  balls  of 
spinach  round  it ; lay  a poached  egg 
on  each  ball,  flattening  it  with  the 
back  of  the  knife,  pour  the  gravy  over 
the  fowl,  and  serve  hot.  Time,  one 
hour  to  stew  the  fowl. 

Eggs  a la  Gruyere. — Melt  x/\  lb. 
of  Gruyere  cheese  in  a stewpan  over 
a slow  fire,  with  a small  quantity 
of  butter,  a quarter  of  a pint  of  veal 
stock,  a seasoning  of  finely  minced 
chives,  parsley,  grated  nutmeg,  and 
salt.  Add,  as  soon  as  the  cheese  has 
been  well  stirred  with  the  other  in- 
gredients, four  well-beaten  eggs,  and 
stir  till  the  herbs  are  sufficiently  done. 
Serve  with  sippets  of  toasted  bread. 

Eggs  a l’ltalienne. — Break  seven 
or  eight  eggs  into  a saucepan,  with  a 
bit  of  butter  in  it.  Add  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  a glass  of  white  wine,  enough 
pounded  sugar  to  make  them  de- 
cidedly sweet,  a pinch  of  salt,  and 
any  approved  flavoring,  as  orange- 
flower  water  or  curagoa.  Then  pro- 
ceed exactly  as  with  scrambled  eggs. 
When  they  are  set  without  being  hard, 
pile  them  on  a hot  dish,  dust  them 
well  with  sugar,  and  candy  it  a little 
either  under  a salamander  or  with  a 
red-hot  fire-shovel. 

Eggs  au  Miroir.  — Spread  butter 
upon  a dish  that  can  be  set  on  the 


99 


Eggs  a la  Maitre  d’Hotel 


EGGS 


Eggs  in  the  Nest 


fire;  break  the  egg  over  it,  adding 
salt,  pepper,  and  two  spoonfuls  of 
milk ; place  it  on  a slow  fire,  with  a 
red-hot  shovel  over  it,  and  serve  when 
the  eggs  are  set.  Or  cut  some  as- 
paragus tops  into  pieces  like  pease, 
boil  them  a quarter  of  an  hour,  then 
take  them  out  and  put  them  into  a 
stewpan,  with  a bunch  of  parsley, 
chives,  and  a piece  of  butter ; set 
them  over  a slow  fire,  put  in  a pinch 
of  flour,  add  a little  water,  and  let  them 
stew,  seasoning  with  salt  and  sugar. 
When  done,  put  them  ink/  the  dish  they 
are  to  be  served  in,  and  break  over 
them  some  eggs,  seasoned  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Set  them  for  a 
short  time  over  the  fire,  press  a red-hot 
shovel  over,  and  serve  the  yolks  soft. 

Eggs  a la  Maitre  d’Hotel. — Slice 
and  fry  some  Spanish  onions  in 
butter,  but  do  not  let  them  brown. 
Add  a little  flour,  some  hot  milk, 
chopped  parsley,  salt,  and  white 
pepper,  and  let  the  sauce  thicken. 
Cut  some  eggs  that  have  been  boiled 
for  ten  minutes  into  quarters,  lay 
them  into  the  sauce,  and,  when  hot, 
arrange  the  eggs  neatly  in  a dish 
and  pour  the  sauce  over  them. 

Eggs  en  Marinade. — Mix  equal 
quantities  of  water  and  good  veal 
gravy,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  each, 
with  a teaspoonful  of  vinegar  and  a 
seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt ; put  it 
into  a stewpan,  and  stir  in  gradually 
two  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs.  When 
it  thickens,  and  before  it  boils,  have 
ready  half  a dozen  nicely  poached 
eggs,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  them. 
Garnish  with  parsley.  Time,  ten 
minutes  to  prepare. 

Eggs  a la  Martin.  — Have  ready 
a dish  that  can  be  put  into  the  oven 
and  baked.  It  should  be  like  a deep, 
ordinary  soup-plate,  without  the  wide 
rim.  It  is  easy  enough  to  find  plenty 
such  at  any  store.  Have  it  heated, 
but  not  too  hot.  Put  into  a small 
saucepan  a teaspoonful  of  butter. 
Let  it  melt,  but  be  careful  that  it  does 
not  brown.  Then  add  a teaspoonful 


of  flour  (or  more,  if  it  is  preferred 
thicker),  and  then  very  slowly,  after 
the  flour  is  well  mingled,  a cup  of  milk 
or  cream.  Then  add  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  grated  cheese.  Stir 
well,  and  when  thoroughly  heated 
pour  into  the  dish  you  have  ready, 
and  with  great  care  (so  as  to  keep  the 
shape)  drop  into  the  mixture  four 
eggs.  The  ordinary  dish  will  hold 
about  four  eggs  and  look  well,  but 
it  may  be  possible  to  find  larger  ones. 
Put  at  once  into  the  oven,  and  when 
the  eggs  are  set  serve  at  once.  A few 
bits  of  parsley  make  the  dish  look 
more  inviting. 

Eggs  in  the  Nest. — Soak  one  box 
of  gelatine  half  an  hour  in  cold  water. 
Put  three  cups  of  milk  on  the  fire  in  a 
double  boiler  and  make  very  hot. 
When  the  gelatine  is  soft  add  to  it 
two  cups  of  sugar ; mix  well,  and  turn 
both  in  the  boiling  milk.  Stir  until 
thoroughly  dissolved.  Take  from  the 
fire  and  divide  into  as  many  portions 
as  you  desire  colors.  To  one  portion 
add  a couple  of  table-spoonfuls  of 
grated  chocolate,  melted  over  boiling 
water.  Tint  another  pink  with  coch- 
ineal. To  a third  add  the  beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  return  to  the 
fire  long  enough  to  cook  the  eggs — 
about  five  minutes.  Leave  one  por- 
tion white.  Flavor  this  with  vanilla, 
add  a few  drops  cf  strawberry- juice 
or  rose-water  to  the  pink,  and  orange- 
peel  to  the  yellow. 

If  you  have  no  egg-moulds  you 
may  have  improvised  some  by  empty- 
ing the  contents  of  eggs  to  be  used  in 
cooking  through  a small  hole  broken 
carefully  in  one  end.  Rinse  the  shells 
out  thoroughly  in  cold  water  and  fill 
them  with  the  blanc-mange  mixture. 
Set  them  to  form,  open  end  up,  in  a 
pan  of  flour  or  meal,  which  will  hold 
them  steady,  and  put  them  in  a cold 
place.  Make  your  nest  of  preserved 
orange-peel,  cut  in  shreds.  The 
orange  marmalade  put  up  in  glass 
jars  may  be  used  for  this.  Arrange 
a bed  of  it  in  the  bottom  of  a glass  or 
silver  bowl,  break  the  shells  from  the 
eggs  with  great  care,  and  arrange 


ioo 


Eggs  in  Patty-shells 


EGGS 


Eggs,  Stuffed 


them  in  the  nest.  If  you  wish,  you 
can  heap  wine  jelly  about  them  by 
the  spoonful,  or  half  bury  them  under 
whipped  cream. 

Eggs  in  Patty-shells. — Put  six  fresh 
eggs  in  boiling  water  for  seven  min- 
utes ; remove  and  put  in  cold  water. 
Peel  and  slice  them.  Cut  in  small 
pieces  four  chicken  livers  or  half  a 
pound  of  calf’s  liver.  Peel,  wash, 
and  cut  in  slices  % lb.  of  small,  fresh 
mushrooms.  Put  in  a small  sauce- 
pan one  table-spoonful  of  green  or 
white  onions,  chopped  fine,  with  one 
table-spoonful  of  butter.  Cook  the 
onicns  four  minutes;  toss  them,  as 
they  must  not  brown ; add  the  livers 
and  mushrooms,  seasoned  with  half  a 
table-spoonful  of  salt  and  half  a salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper.  Cook  four  min- 
utes while  stirring ; add  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  Madeira  wine,  half  a 
table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
and  the  eggs  for  enough  time  to  be 
warmed.  Place  the  patty-shells  in 
the  oven  for  four  minutes,  fill  up  each 
one  with  the  mixture,  and  arrange 
them  on  a hot,  round  platter ; put  the 
remainder  of  the  mixture  in  the  cen- 
tre and  around  the  platter.  Serve 
very  hot. 

Eggs  and  Potatoes. — Boil  seven  or 
eight  floury  potatoes  and  mash  them 
while  quite  hot ; add  T oz.  of  butter, 
the  yolk  of  an  egg,  pepper  and  .salt, 
and,  if  liked,  a little  pounded  onion, 
and  boiled  minced  parsley.  Roll  the 
potatoes  into  egglike  shape,  brush 
them  over  with  beaten  egg,  and  cover 
with  fine  bread-crumbs,  well  seasoned 
with  salt  and  white  pepper.  Put  them 
into  an  oven  to  brown,  or  fry  in  lard 
or  dripping  till  they  are  of  a fine  brown 
color ; lay  them  before  the  fire  to  drain, 
if  fried,  and  serve  garnished  with 
fried  parsley.  Time,  half  an  hour  to 
boil  potatoes. 

Eggs,  Poached. — Put  a pint  of  water 
into  a stewpan,  with  four  teaspoonfuls 
of  vinegar  and  half  a teaspoonful  of 
salt;  place  it  over  the  fire,  and,  while 
boiling,  break  the  eggs  into  it  near 


the  surface  of  the  water,  and  let  it 
boil  gently  about  three  minutes. 
Lay  upon  a dish  a thin  piece  of  toasted 
bread;  take  the  eggs  out  carefully 
with  a small  strainer,  and  lay  the 
strainer  with  the  eggs  upon  a cloth 
for  a second,  to  drain  the  water  from 
them ; then  set  them  carefully  upon 
the  toast  and  serve  very  hot. 

Eggs,  Potted. — Pound  the  hard- 
boiled  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  with 
anchovy  sauce.  Mix  them  to  a 
paste  with  2 ozs.  of  good,  fresh  butter, 
and  season  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
salt  and  one  of  white  pepper.  Have 
ready  some  small  pots,  and  chop  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  very  small.  As 
the  pots  are  being  filled  with  the 
paste,  strew  in  the  chopped  whites, 
and  cover  over  the  tops  with  clarified 
butter.  These  eggs  will  not  keep 
long. 

Eggs,  Scrambled. — When  the  pan 
has  been  well  oiled  with  good  butter, 
put  into  it  as  many  eggs  as  it  will 
hold  separately,  that  each  yolk  may 
be  entire.  When  the  whites  have  be- 
come slightly  hard,  stir  from  the  bot- 
tom of  the  pan  till  done,  adding  a 
piece  of  butter,  and  pepper  and  salt. 
When  done,  the  yolks  should  be 
separate  from  the  whites,  although 
stirred  together.  Serve  on  hot  but- 
tered toast  with  anchovy  sauce, 
potted  meat,  chee.se,  or  fish  spread 
over  it  first.  The  eggs  should  be  of 
the  consistency  of  butter.  Time, 
five  minutes. 

Eggs  sur  le  Plat. — Butter  well  a 
porcelain  platter ; put  over  the  fire ; 
warm  one  minute ; break  one  egg  at 
a*  lime  in  a separate  plate,  and  slide 
them  gently  on  the  hot,  buttered 
platter.  Put  a few  grains  of  salt 
and  pepper  on  each ; cook  two  min- 
utes without  disturbing  ; eggs  cooked 
in  a small  porcelain  cocote  are  done 
the  same  way. 

Eggs,  Stuffed. — Half  a dozen  eggs 
boiled  about  eight  minutes ; remove 
the  shells,  and,  when  cool  enough. 


IOI 


Eggs  and  Sauce 


EGGS 


Eggs,  Sunshiny 


cut  in  half  and  remove  the  yolks ; 
cut  the  rounded  end  off  each  white 
and  stand  them  on  a deep  platter; 
then  mash  the  yolks  smooth,  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  butter,  some  finely 
chopped  parsley,  and  pepper  and 
salt ; then  take  a thick  slice  of  stale 
bread,  and,  after  removing  the  crust, 
soak  it  thoroughly  in  rich  milk ; 
squeeze  a little  of  the  milk  from  the 
bread,  and  mash  it  up  with  the  other 
ingredients ; roll  lightly  into  little 
balls,  putting  one  in  each  half  of  an 
egg.  Next  make  a sauce  with  a 
pint  of  milk,  a table-spoonful  of  but- 
ter, one  of  flour,  and  a little  pepper 
and  salt ; cream  the  flour  and  butter 
together,  and  add  the  milk ; put  all 
on  the  stove,  and  stir  constantly  till  it 
thickens ; then  pour  the  sauce  over 
the  eggs  and  garnish  the  dish  with 
parsley.  Serve,  with  hot  raised  waf- 
fles, for  lunch  or  tea. 

Eggs  and  Sauce.  — Chop  finely  a 
teaspoonful  each  of  parsley  and 
chives,  and  put  them  into  a stewpan 
with  2 ozs.  of  butter  and  a little  flour ; 
add  a glass  of  sherry,  a teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  half  the  quantity  of  pep- 
per. When  the  sauce  has  simmered 
about  ten  minutes,  have  ready  half 
a dozen  poached  eggs ; lay  them  on 
toast,  and  send  to  table  with  the 
sauce  poured  round.  Sufficient  sauce 
for  six  eggs. 

Eggs  as  Snow.— -Separate  the  yolks 
from  the  whites  of  six  eggs.  Beat 
the  whites  to  a froth,  with  a little 
finely  powdered  sugar.  Have  ready 
a full  pint  of  new  milk  well  sweetened 
and  flavored  with  vanilla,  orange- 
flower  water,  or  rose-water.  When 
it  boils,  drop  in,  one  by  one,  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  frothed  egg,  and, 
when  set,  remove  each  with  a slice. 
By  varying  the  quantity  dropped  in, 
a handsomer  dish  will  be  obtained 
than  by  keeping  to  one  uniform  size. 
Arrange  the  patches  of  snow  on  a 
large  dish,  and  group  the  large  ones 
in  the  centre.  If  the  milk  has  cooled 
a little,  mix  the  egg-yolks  slowly  and 
very  gradually  with  it  till  all  is  used, 


and  it  has  become  thick.  Pour  this 
among  and  around,  but  not  over  the 
snow.  Serve  cold  as  a supper  dish. 

Eggs,  Snow.  — Boil  one  quart  of 
milk  with  2 ozs.  of  sugar  and  the 
grated  peel  of  a lemon.  Break  six 
eggs;  whip  the  whites,  and,  when 
very  firm,  mix  in  4 ozs.  of  pounded 
sugar.  Take  a table-spoonful  of 
the  whipped  whites  about  the  size  of 
an  egg,  and  drop  it  in  the  boiling 
milk;  repeat  the  process.  When  the 
eggs  are  set  on  one  side,  turn  them 
over ; when  quite  firm,  drain  them  on 
a sieve  ; continue  in  the  same  way  till 
all  the  white  of  the  eggs  is  used.  Pre- 
pare a custard  with  the  six  yolks  of 
eggs  and  some  milk.  When  cold, 
dish  up  the  eggs  in  a pyramid ; cover 
them  with  the  cold  custard  and 
serve. 

Eggs,  Spun  ( Oeufs  en  Filigrane) . 
—This  preparation  is  used  prin- 
cipally as  a garnish  for  other  sweet 
dishes.  Prepare  a syrup  of  sugar, 
white  wine,  and  water,  and  beat  up 
eight  eggs  with  a dessert-spoonful  of 
arrow-root.  Boil  the  syrup  in  a large 
stewpan,  and  when  it  is  quite  hot 
force  the  mixture  of  egg  and  arrow- 
root  through  a colander  into  the  boil- 
ing syrup.  It  will  harden  immedi- 
ately, and  must  be  taken  up,  drained 
for  a little  time,  and  then  piled  on 
a dish.  If  to  be  eaten  hot,  serve  at 
once. 

Eggs,  Sunshiny.— Melt  a little  but- 
ter in  an  omelet-pan,  sprinkle  salt 
upon  it,  and  break  into  it  one  or  more 
eggs  according  to  the  number  re- 
quired. Fry  these  till  they  are  suffi- 
ciently poached,  and  be  careful  to 
turn  up  the  edges  to  keep  them  from 
spreading  too  far.  Before  sending 
them  to  table  sprinkle  pepper  over 
them,  and  cover  them  with  tomato- 
sauce.  This  dish  is  named,  by  Ital- 
ians, " egg  in  purgatory.”  Eggs  pre- 
pared in  the  same  way,  and  sprinkled 
over  with  grated  Parmesan  or  Gru- 
y£re  cheese,  are  named  “ eggs  in 
moonshine.” 


102 


Eggs,  Swiss 


EGGS 


Eggs  and  White  Sauce 


Eggs,  Swiss.  — Grease  a shallow 
pudding-dish  that  will  stand  the  fire. 
Pour  into  it  a half-pint  of  milk.  Set 
the  pan  on  the  stove,  and  when  the 
milk  is  blood-warm  break  into  it  six 
eggs,  carefully  keeping  the  yolks 
unbroken,  and  placing  so  that  the 
whites  just  touch  one  another.  Dust 
with  salt  and  pepper ; cover  and  cook 
until  the  whites  are  set  and  the  yolks 
firm  but  soft. 

Those  who  like  the  flavor  of  onion 
may  rub  the  pan  with  a halved  onion 
before  greasing. 

Eggs  a la  T abasco. — Bring  to  a boil 
a pint  of  cream.  Drop  into  it.  the  eggs 
you  wish  to  poach  (it  will  take  four 
easily),  and  drop  them  into  a muffin- 
ring. By  so  doing  they  will  not 
spread  into  an  ungainly  and  awkward 
shape.  Have  ready  as  many  small 
slices  of  toast  as  you  have  eggs,  and 
lift  the  eggs  carefully  upon  them — 
one  for  each.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  four  drops  of  tabasco. 
They  should  be  rather  hot  with  the 
sauce.  Pour  the  rest  of  the  cream 
over  them. 

Egg  Timbales. — Butter  small  tin 
moulds  and  dust  them  with  pow- 
dered parsley* ; then  an  egg  is  dropped 
in  each,  and  they  are  put  in  a pan  of 
hot  water  and  cooked  in  the  oven  for 
about  ten  minutes,  when  they  may 
be  turned  out  on  a round  platter,  and 
a sauce  made  of  a cup  of  thickened 
cream  with  chopped  mushrooms  in 
it,  or  a tomato-sauce  with  the  mush- 
rooms may  be  poured  around  them. 
These  timbales  may  be  altered  by 
lining  the  moulds  with  finely  minced 
ham  instead  of  the  parsley,  but  it 
must  be  moistened  with  cream  or  egg 
to  make  it  adhere  to  the  tin.  The 
egg  is  put  in  and  the  sauce  used  as 
before. 

Egg  Toast. — Take  two  eggs,  one 
cup  and  a half  of  milk,  and  flour 
enough  to  make  a stiff  batter.  Cut 
stale  bread  in  thin  slices,  dip  into  the 
batter,  and  fry  brown  in  butter. 
Serve  hot  for  breakfast. 


Eggs  with  Tomato. — Place  in  a 
chafing-dish  one  pint  stewed  toma- 
toes, one  small  onion,  chopped  very 
fine,  one  teaspoonful  of  parsley, 
chopped  fine.  Let  simmer  for  ten 
minutes,  then  add  six  eggs  'which 
have  been  well  beaten,  and  stir  con- 
stantly. Season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per to  taste  and  serve  at  once.  As- 
paragus, celery,  spinach,  and  other 
vegetables  may  be  substituted  for 
the  tomatoes. 

Eggs  a la  Tripe. — Boil  eight  eggs 
hard,  remove  the  yolks  without  break- 
ing, and  cut  up  the  whites  to  a mince. 
Lay  the  yolks  in  the  middle  of  a dish, 
and  the  whites  round  them.  Have 
ready  some  bechamel  sauce,  add  a 
dessert-spoonful  of  finely  cut  pars- 
ley, and  when  hot  throw  it  over 
the  eggs  Send  to  table  garnished 
with  croutons  fried,  or  leaves  of  puff 
paste.  Time,  ten  minutes  to  boil  eggs. 

Egg  Vol -au- Vents. — Mince  two 
truffles  and  put  them  into  a stewpan 
with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  thick 
cream ; add  four  eggs  that  have 
boiled  twenty  minutes;  chop  them 
small,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
nutmeg.  Have  ready  some  paste- 
cases,  and  when  the  mixture  has 
simmered  five  minutes  fill  them 
and  serve  hot.  Sufficient  for  six 
cases. 

Eggs  and  White  Sauce. — Cut  five 
hard-boiled  eggs  in  halves,  so  as  to 
form  cups  of  the  whites  when  the 
yolk  is  removed.  Mix  the  yolks  to 
a paste  with  a table-spoonful  of  cream 
and  I oz.  of  butter ; add  to  it  a tea- 
spoonful of  minced  onion  and  parsley, 
and  when  well  flavored  with  salt  and 
cayenne,  fill  the  whites  and  set  them 
over  steam  till  quite  hot.  Pare  off 
the  pointed  tips  so  that  they  may 
stand  steadily  on  the  dish.  Serve 
in  white  sauce.  Time,  ten  minutes 
to  boil  eggs. 

Egg  and  Cheese  Sandwiches. 

See  Sandwiches. 

..  Canapes  of. 


103 


Omelet 


EGGS  Omelet  with  Asparagus  Tips 


Egg  Force-meat  Balls. 

See  Force-meats. 
..  Pickled.  See  Pickles. 

..  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 


Egg  Sauce. 

..  Soup. 

..  Toast. 

..  Yolk  Rings. 


See  Sauces. 
See  Soups. 
See  Bread. 
See  Cakes. 


OMELETS 


Omelet.  — An  omelet  is  a simple, 
wholesome,  inexpensive  dish,  but  yet 
one  in  the  preparation  of  which  cooks 
frequently  fail,  owing  to  ignorance  of 
three  or  four  important  details.  The 
flavoring  may  be  varied  indefinitely, 
but  the  process  is  always  the  same. 
In  making  an  omelet  care  should  be 
taken,  first,  that  the  frying-pan  is 
quite  dry  and  hot.  The  best  way  to 
insure  this  is  to  put  a small  quantity 
of  fat  into  the  pan,  let  it  boil,  then 
pour  it  away,  wipe  the  pan  out  with  a 
cloth,  and  put  in  fresh  fat.  Second, 
the  fat  in  which  the  omelet  is  to  be 
fried  should  be  very  gently  heated. 
Unless  this  is  done  the  fat  will  be 
browned,  and  the  color  of  the  omelet 
will  be  spoiled.  Third,  the  number 
of  eggs  should  not  be  large.  It  is 
better  to  make  two  or  three  small 
omelets  than  one  very  large  one. 
'The  best  omelets  are  made  with  no 
more  than  six  eggs.  Fourth,  the 
omelet-pan  should  not  be  washed ; it 
should  be  scraped  and  wiped  dry 
with  a cloth.  If  washed  it  is  prob- 
able that  the  next  omelet  fried  in  it 
will  be  a failure.  Fifth,  a very  small 
quantity  only  of  salt  should  be  put 
in.  Salt  keeps  the  eggs  from  rising. 

Omelet,  Plain.— /The  following  rec- 
ipe is  by  the  celebrated  French  cook, 
M.  Soyer  : “Break  four  eggs  into  a 
basin,  add  half  a teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  a quarter  of  a teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  and  beat  them  well  up  with  a 
fork.  Put  into  the  frying  - pan  i ^ 
ozs.  of  butter,  lard,  or  oil ; place  it  on 
the  fire,  and  when  hot  pour  in  the 
eggs,  and  keep  on  mixing  them 
quickly  with  a spoon  till  they  are 
delicately  set;  then  let  them  slip  to 
the  edge  of  the  pan,  laying  hold  by 


the  handle,  and  raising  it  slantwise, 
which  will  give  an  elongated  form  to 
the  omelet ; turn  in  the  edges,  let  it 
rest  a moment  to  set,  turn  it  over  on 
a dish,  and  serve.  It  ought  to  be  of 
a rich  yellow  color,  done  to  a nicety, 
and  as  light  and  delicate  as  possible. 
Two  table -spoonfuls  of  milk  and  i 
oz.  of  the  crumb  of  bread,  cut  into 
small  pieces,  may  be  added/' 

Omelet  with  Apples. — Peel  and  core 
one  quart  of  green  apples  and  cut 
them  lengthwise,  a quarter  of  an  inch 
thick ; put  them  in  a saucepan  with 

lb.  of  good  butter,  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  sugar,  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  water.  Cover  the  saucepan  ; cook 
slowly  for  fifteen  minutes ; stir  the 
apples,  but  do  not  break  them,  and 
cook  again  for  ten  minutes.  Re- 
move the  nicest  pieces  to  place  around 
the  omelet.  Break  six  fresh  eggs 
in  a bowl,  add  to  them  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  granulated  sugar,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  milk ; beat  for  one 
minute  ; put  in  a very  clean  frying- 
pan  half  a table-spoonful  of  fresh 
butter.  When  hot  pour  the  eggs  in. 
Let  them  cook  for  half  a minute,  and 
with  a fork  bring  towards  you  the 
first  fold ; let  it  cook  to  form  the  sec- 
ond fold ; and  do  the  same  thing  for 
the  third  fold.  By  this  time  the 
omelet  is  cooked  enough ; pour  in 
the  centre  from  one  end  to  the  other 
the  hot  apples,  fold  the  omelet  from 
the  side  nearest  to  you,  and  have  a 
hot  platter  at  the  other  end  to  receive 
the  omelet.  Slip  it  gently  over  and 
lay  around  it  the  reserved  slices  of 
apple. 

Omelet  with  Asparagus  Tips.  — 

Scrape  two  large  bunches  of  fresh 


Omelet,  Bread 


EGGS 


Omelet,  Jam 


asparagus  carefully  down  to  the 
points.  Wash  in  cold  water,  and 
cut  an  inch  off  each  stalk.  Separate 
the  small  and  large  stalks,  and  di- 
vide all  into  six  bunches,  which  are 
separately  tied.  Put  them  in  four 
quarts  of  boiling  water,  to  which  half 
a table -spoonful  of  salt  has  been 
added.  Remove  the  small  bunches 
after  twelve  minutes,  letting  the 
large  ones  boil  six  minutes  longer. 
Put  them  in  a cloth  to  drain.  Cut 
the  small  stalks  in  half-inch  pieces, 
using  only  the  tender  part,  and  pour 
over  them  one  table-spoonful  of  hot 
butter,  clarified,  and  quarter  of  a 
pinch  of  white  pepper.  Cut  the 
large  ones  in  finger-lengths,  and 
pour  over  them  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  the  clarified  hot  butter.  For  the 
omelet,  break  into  a bowl  eight  fresh 
eggs,  and  add  a pinch  of  salt  and 
half  a pinch  of  white  pepper.  Beat 
one  minute  with  a silver  fork.  Put 
on  a brisk  fire  a very  smooth  frying- 
pan,  in  which  heat,  but  not  brown, 
one  table-spoonful  of  butter.  Pour 
the  beaten  eggs  in  the  pan,  and  after 
a few  seconds  the  fold  will  form. 
Gather  it  neatly  forward ; it  will  form 
again  quickly,  and  after  the  third 
forming  the  omelet  is  sufficiently 
done  to  receive  the  short  pieces  of 
asparagus,  which  should  be  poured 
in  the  centre.  Have  ready  a hot 
platter.  Slip  the  omelet  half-way  on 
the  platter ; the  other  half  near  the 
handle  will  fall  over  and  envelop  the 
asparagus. 

Omelet,  Bread.  — Mix  equal  quan- 
tities of  bread-crumbs  and  cream,  a 
teaspoonful  of  each ; break  I oz.  of 
butter  into  bits,  and  add  with  it  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg.  When  the 
cream  has  been  absorbed  by  the  bread, 
beat  it  till  smooth,  with  a fork,  and 
mix  it  to  three  well-beaten  eggs. 
Fry  like  an  ordinary  omelet.  Time 
to  fry,  three  to  four  minutes. 

Omelet,  Cabbage. — Beat  four  eggs 
till  they  are  very  light,  the  whites 
and  the  yolks  separately ; to  the 
yolks  add  a cup  of  sweet  milk,  and 


pepper  and  salt  to  taste ; then  stir  in 
a cup  of  cold,  boiled  cabbage,  chopped 
fine ; have  enough  butter  in  a sauce- 
pan to  cover  the  bottom ; when  hot, 
pour  the  omelet  in,  having  stirred 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  in  first,  before 
putting  into  the  pan. 

Omelet,  Cheese.  — Beat  two  eggs 
thoroughly.  Allow  a pinch  of  salt, 
the  same  of  pepper,  half  a teaspoon- 
ful of  finely  chopped  parsley,  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  or 
Cheshire  cheese  to  every  two  eggs. 
Mix  completely.  Put  a piece  of 
butter  the  size  of  an  egg  into  the  fry- 
ing-pan. When  it  is  hot,  pour  in  the 
mixture,  and  stir  it  with  a wooden 
spoon  until  it  begins  to  set.  Dis- 
continue stirring,  but.  shake  the  pan 
for  a minute  or  so,  then  fold  the  ome- 
let in  two,  and  keep  on  shaking  the 
pan,  and,  if  it  seems  likely  to  stick, 
put  a little  piece  of  butter  under  it. 
When  it  is  lightly  browned,  turn  it 
on  a hot  dish.  It  must  not  be  over- 
done. If  it  is  preferred,  the  cheese 
may  be  finely  grated  and  strewed 
over  the  omelet  after  it  is  cooked,  in- 
stead of  being  mixed  with  it  before. 
Time  to  fry,  ten  minutes.  Sufficient 
for  one  person. 

Omelet,  Corn.  — Grate  twelve  ears 
of  corn  that  have  been  boiled;  add 
the  beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs,  and 
stir  in  their  beaten  whites ; season 
with  pepper  and  salt.  Fry  the  mixt- 
ure in  a pan,  not  putting  it  in  too 
thick.  Brown  the  top  with  a hot 
shovel.  Do  not  turn  the  omelet  in 
the  pan. 

Omelet,  Ham. — Cut  raw  ham  into 
dice,  fry  with  butter,  and,  when 
cooked  enough,  turn  the  beaten  eggs 
over  it,  and  cook  as  a plain  omelet. 
If  boiled  ham  is  used,  it  is  cut  into 
dice  also,  and  mixed  with  the  eggs 
after  they  are  beaten.  It  may  be 
made  with  bacon  instead  of  raw  ham. 

Omelet,  Jam.  — Beat  four  eggs, 
and  mix  with  them  a teaspoonful  of 
moist  sugar,  a pinch  of  salt,  and  a 


105 


Omelet  aux  Fines  Herbes  EGGS 


Omelet  with  Oysters 


table-spoonful  of  milk.  Put  2 ozs. 
of  fat  or  oil  into  the  pan,  and  when  it 
begins  to  bubble  pour  in  the  eggs,  etc., 
and  keep  stirring  them  with  a spoon 
until  lightly  set.  Let  them  remain 
a minute,  until  the  omelet  is  browned 
on  one  side,  then  turn  it  on  a hot  dish, 
spread  a little  jam  in  the  middle, 
fold  the  edges  over  on  each  side,  sift 
a little  sugar  over,  and  serve  as  quick- 
ly as  possible.  Time,  five  or  six  min- 
utes to  fry  the  omelet. 

Omelet  aux  Fines  Herbes. — Break 
six  eggs  into  a bowl.  Beat  them 
lightly,  and  mix  with  them  a small 
pinch  of  salt  and  pepper,  a heaped 
teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley, 
and  half  a teaspoonful  of  minced 
onions,  cloves,  or  shallots.  Dissolve 
2 ozs.  of  fresh  butter  into  a hot  fry- 
ing-pan over  a gentle  fire.  Pour  in  the 
mixture  and  proceed  in  the  usual  way. 

Omelets  may  be  extensively  va- 
ried. A little  minced  ham,  or  cooked 
vegetables,  or  fish  sauce,  or  jam 
may  be  put  in  either  with  the  eggs 
or  placed  in  their  centre  when  they 
are  partially  cooked,  and  the  omelet 
should  then  be  named  after  the  pecul- 
iar flavoring.  Time  to  fry,  four  or 
five  minutes. 

Omelet,  Kidney. — Take  the  remains 
of  a cold  veal  kidney,  or,  if  this  is  not 
at  hand,  cut  a fresh  one  into  slices 
and  fry  it  over  a clear  fire  for  three  or 
four  minutes.  Mince  it  very  finely, 
season  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and 
mix  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  mince 
with  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  six  and 
the  whites  of  three  eggs.  Add  3 ozs. 
of  fresh  butter,  broken  small.  Put 
2 ozs.  of  butter  in  an  omelet-pan,  let 
it  remain  on  a slow  fire  until  it  bub- 
bles, then  pour  in  the  mixture,  and 
stir  briskly  for  three  or  four  minutes 
until  the  eggs  are  set.  Fold  the 
edges  of  the  omelet  over  neatly,  and 
turn  it  carefully  upon  a hot  dish. 
Serve  immediately.  If  cooked  too 
much  it  will  be  tough. 

Omelet,  Mushrooms. — Cut  three  or 
four  mushrooms  into  small  pieces ; 


beat  the  eggs,  and  mix  the  mush- 
rooms with  them.  Then  make  the 
omelet. 

Omelet,  Onion. — Cut  a large  Span- 
ish onion  into  dice,  and  fry  these  in  a 
little  hot  butter  until  they  are  tender 
without  being  browned.  Drain  them 
from  the  fat,  and  mix  with  them  half 
a dozen  eggs,  slightly  beaten.  Add 
a pinch  of  salt,  two  pinches  of  pepper, 
and  a small  portion  of  grated  nut- 
meg, and  fry  the  omelet  according 
to  the  directions  already  given.  White 
sauce  may  be  served  with  this  dish. 
Time,  five  or  six  minutes  to  fry  the 
omelet. 

Omelet,  Oysters. —Blanch  oysters 
more  or  less,  according  to  taste,  or 
according  to  size  of  the  omelet,  and 
turn  them  into  a colander.  Then 
beat  the  eggs,  mix  the  oysters  with 
them,  and  finish  the  omelet  as  usual. 
The  oysters  may  be  chopped  fine, 
if  desired. 

Omelet  with  Oysters  and  “ Pigs  in 
Blankets.”  — Break  in  a bowl  six 
fresh  eggs,  season  them  with  one 
salt-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a one  of 
white  pepper ; beat  them  with  a silver 
fork  for  one  minute  only.  Take  care 
to  mix  well  the  white  and  the  yolk ; 
this  is  the  way  to  prevent  the  omelet 
from  being  watery.  Put  one  quart  of 
freshly  opened  oysters  in  a small 
saucepan  with  their  liquor,  boil  them 
only  one  minute,  drain  them,  and 
dry  them  with  a towel.  Select  one 
dozen  of  the  largest  ones  and  reserve 
them  for  the  “ pigs  in  blankets.” 
Trim  the  others,  remove  the  tendons, 
and  cut  them  in  three  pieces.  Put 
one  table  - spoonful  of  butter  in  a 
small  saucepan.  When  melted  put 
the  cut  oysters  in  it,  with  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  half  a one  of 
pepper.  Cook  two  minutes,  tossing 
them.  Put  over  a very  brisk  fire  a 
frying-pan  with  half  a table-spoonful 
of  butter.  When  hot,  but  not  brown, 
pour  the  eggs  in,  and  cook  half  a 
minute.  With  a fork  bring  towards 
you  the  first  fold.  Let  the  second 


106 


Omelet,  Parsley 


EGGS 


Omelet,  Tomato 


one  form,  and  do  the  same  thing. 
After  the  third  fold  the  omelet  is  suffi- 
ciently done  to  receive  the  hot  oysters. 
Strain  them  from  their  gravy,  put 
them  in  the  centre  of  the  omelet  from 
one  end  to  the  other,  then  slip  the 
fork  under  the  part  of  the  omelet  near 
you  and  fold  the  omelet. 

Put  a hot  platter  at  the  opposite 
end  and  slip  the  omelet  gently  on  it. 
Before  making  the  omelet  prepare 
the  “ pigs  in  blankets.”  Cut  twelve 
thin  slices  out  of  x/z  lb.  of  bacon ; put 
them  in  the  frying  - pan  for  one  min- 
ute. Fry  only  on  one  side.  Wrap 
each  oyster  in  one  slice  of  bacon, 
putting  the  fried  slice  nearest  the 
oyster.  Roll  it  up,  and  secure  it 
with  a tiny  wooden  skewer  like  a 
toothpick.  Broil  two  minutes  on 
each  side,  remove  the  skewer,  place 
around  the  omelet,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Omelet,  Parsley. — Beat  two  eggs, 
yolks  and  whites  together,  until  very 
light.  Mix  one  teaspoonful  of  corn- 
starch with  a scant  half-teacupful  of 
milk ; when  well  stirred  and  smooth, 
pour  this  over  the  eggs,  and  beat  all 
well  together  for  a few  minutes ; add 
a little  chopped  parsley.  Cook  as 
other  omelets. 

Omelet,  Potato.  — Take  a large, 
freshly  baked  potato,  break  it  open, 
and  scoop  out  the  inside  with  a spoon. 
Beat  this  till  smooth,  and  mix  with  it 
a little  pepper  and  salt,  a dessert- 
spoonful of  lemon-juice,  and  the  yolks 
of  four  eggs.  A minute  or  two  be- 
fore the  omelet  is  to  be  fried  add  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a firm 
froth.  Fry  in  the  usual  way,  and 
serve  on  a hot  dish.  Garnish  with 
parsley.  Time  to  fry,  five  or  six 
minutes.  Sufficient  for  two  persons. 

Omelet,  Preserve  or  Jam. — Beat 
thoroughly  the  yolks  of  six  eggs. 
Add  3 ozs.  of  sugar,  and  if  any  flavor- 
ing is  added  be  careful  that  it  har- 
monizes with  the  jam  that  is  to  be 
used.  A strawberry  omelet  may  be 
flavored  with  orange-flower  water,  an 
apple-marmalade  omelet  with  grated 


lemon-rind.  Beat  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  to  a firm  froth,  and  just  before 
the  omelet  is  poured  into  the  pan 
mix  them  with  the  rest.  Dissolve  2 
ozs.  of  butter  in  the  omelet-pan,  pour 
in  the  mixture,  and  fry  the  omelet  in 
the  usual  way.  Before  folding  it, 
lay  two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
jam  in  the  centre.  Sprinkle  a little 
sugar  over  the  top,  brown  by  holding 
over  it  a salamander  or  red-hot  fire- 
shovel,  and  serve  immediately  be- 
fore the  omelet  can  fall.  Time,  four 
to  six  minutes. 

Omelet,  Rum. — Beat  three  eggs  in 
a bowl,  and  add  a very  small  pinch  of 
salt,  a teaspoonful  of  finely  powdered 
sugar,  a slice  of  butter,  and  a table- 
spoonful of  rum.  Fry  the  omelet  in 
the  usual  way.  Lay  it  on  a hot  dish, 
and  pour  round  it  half  a tumblerful  of 
rum  which  has  been  warmed  in  a sauce- 
pan. Light  it,  and  take  the  omelet  to 
table  with  the  flame  rising  round  it. 

Omelet,  Spanish. — Mince  finely  as 
much  fat  and  lean  ham  as  will  fill  a 
small  teacup,  and  add  two  finely 
minced  button-onions.  Beat  .six  eggs, 
stir  the  ham,  etc.,  into  them,  and  fry 
the  omelet  in  the  usual  way.  A true 
Spanish  omelet  would  be  made  with 
garlic  instead  of  onion,  but  this  wovdd 
be  too  strong  for  ordinary  palates. 

Omelet,  Tomatoes. — Peel  a couple 
of  tomatoes,  which  split  in  four  pieces  ; 
remove  the  seeds,  and  cut  them  into 
small  dice  ; then  fry  them  with  a little 
butter  until  nearly  done,  adding  salt 
and  pepper.  Beat  the  eggs  and  mix 
the  tomatoes  with  them,  and  make 
omelet  as  usual. 

Omelet,  Tomato,  and  Green  Pep- 
pers.— Put  in  a small  saucepan  one 
teaspoonful  of  butter.  When  melted, 
add  three  table-spoonfuls  of  the  thick 
part  of  canned  tomatoes,  with  a tea- 
spoonful of  green  pepper,  chopped  fine. 
Cook  three  minutes.  Season  with  bne 
salt-spoonful  of  salt  and  one-half  of 
this  quantity  of  pepper.  Pour  with 
the  eggs,  which  beat  for  one  minute. 


107 


Elite  Sandwiches  EMERGENCIES  Extract  of  Meat 


Elite  Sandwiches. 

See  Sandwiches. 

Emergencies. — Every  housekeeper 
will  find  it  advantageous  to  keep  a 
store  - closet  provided  with  articles 
ready  to  use  at  short  notice.  While 
most  of  the  ready-made  articles  are 
not  as  satisfactory  as  home-made 
ones,  they  are  acceptable  substitutes 
where  there  is  no  opportunity  to  buy 
the  materials  or  time  to  prepare  them. 
It  is  impossible  to  give  more  than  a 
few  suggestions  in  this  place.  As  a 
rule,  articles  in  glass  jars  are  more 
wholesome  than  those  in  tin  cans.  A 
selection  can  be  made  from  the  follow- 
ing list : Salted  and  smoked  meats, 
such  as  bacon,  ham,  tongue,  etc. 
Salted  and  smoked  fish,  such  as  cod, 
mackerel,  salmon,  etc.  Potted  meats  ; 
soups  ; vegetables  ; fruits,  both  canned 
and  dried ; jellies,  jams,  etc. ; cheese, 
pickles,  etc. 

English  Muffins.  See  Bread. 


English  Stew.  See  Soups. 

English  Walnuts.  See  Candy. 

Entrees. — Simple  entrees  owe  their 
value  to  the  fineness  of  the  elements 
composing  the  same,  the  original 
character  of  which  must  be  preserved, 
not  destroyed.  Ornamented  entrees 
belong  to  the  highest  kind  of  cooking. 

One  of  the  essentials  in  most  en- 
trees is  the  accompanying  sauce. 
If  this  is  not  perfect,  the  value  of  the 
dish  is  destroyed.  Among  the  sim- 
pler entrees  are  canapes,  fritters,  ris- 
soles, etc.  The  more  difficult  to  pre- 
pare are  fillets,  larded;  patties;  tim- 
bales ; vol-au-vents,  etc. 

Epigrammes  of  Veal.  See  Veal. 

Escalops,  Veal.  See  Veal. 

Eve’s  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

Extract  of  Meat,  Gravy  from. 

See  Gravies. 


F 


Faggot  of  Herbs  for  Soups.  — 

Parsley,  shallot,  carrots,  celery,  etc., 
with  peppercorns,  bay-leaves,  cloves, 
etc.,  tied  together  so  that  they  may 
be  taken  out  before  serving. 

Fairy  Biscuits.  See  Bread. 

Farina  Jelly.  See  Jellies. 


Figs. — The  following  recipes  for 
the  preparation  of  figs  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Figs,  Paste.  See  Candy. 

Green,  Compote  of.  See  Fruits. 
..  Pickled.  See  Pickles. 

..  Preserved.  See  Preserves. 

..  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 


Fat,  To  Clarify. — Add  a teaspoon- 
ful of  soda  and  water  to  the  fat.  Let 
it  boil,  remove  the  scum,  and  set  aside 
until  cold.  Then  take  off  the  cake 
of  fat,  remove  all  impurities,  and  put 
it  on  the  fire  until  all  the  water  has 
been  evaporated.  As  long  as  it  bub- 
bles there  is  some  water  left.  See 
Drippings. 


Filbert  Cakes.  See  Cakes. 

Fillet  of  Beef.  See  Beef. 

Fillet  of  Mutton.  See  Mutton. 

Finnan  Haddie,  a la  Delmonico. 

See  Fish. 

..  ..  Broiled. 


FISH 


Fresh  fish  should  always  be  clean- 
ed and  drawn  as  soon  as  it  comes 
from  the  market.  As  freshness  is 
the  prime  quality  of  fish,  the  sooner 
it  is  cooked  and  served  the  better. 
It  should  not  be  soaked,  but  wash- 
ed quickly  in  cold  water  and  then 
wiped  carefully.  Then  it  is  ready 
to  prepare  for  cooking.  Salt  fish 
may  be  soaked  overnight.  If  the 
fish  is  to  be  boiled  or  baked,  leave 
the  head  and  tail  on,  but  cut  off  the 
fins. 

In  boiling,  the  fish  should  be 
placed  in  salted  cold  water  with  a 
little  vinegar  or  lemon-juice  in  it. 
Salmon  is  put  first  into  warm  water 
to  preserve  its  color.  Boil  very  gen- 
tly. To  improve  the  flavor,  onions, 
sliced  carrots,  pepper,  salt,  vinegar, 


cloves  etc.,  may  be  added  to  the 
water.  The  time  for  boiling  is  eight 
to  ten  minutes  to  the  pound  for  large, 
thick  fish,  and  about  five  minutes  to 
the  pound  for  small  ones,  counting 
from  the  time  the  water  begins  to 
simmer,  and  using  only  enough 
water  to  cover  the  fish. 

The  best  way  to  boil  fish  whose 
flesh  is  not  naturally  full-flavored  or 
extremely  delicate  is  to  cook  it  in 
seasoned  water,  or,  as  the  French 
call  it,  in  a court-bouillon,  which  is 
made  thus  : 

On  the  bottom  of  the  fish-kettle  lay 
a bed  of  sliced  carrots,  sliced  onions, 
green  parsley,  thyme,  bay  - laurel, 
a sliced  lemon  or  a sliced  orange,  and 
some  whole  peppercorns.  On  this 
bed  lay  the  fish,  and  cover  it  with 


Anchovies 


FISH 


Anchovies  with  Olives 


half  white  wine  and  half  water  (or  vin- 
egar or  lemon-juice — two  or  three  wine- 
glassfuls  added  to  the  water).  Put 
the  kettle  on  a moderate  fire,  and  as 
soon  as  the  liquid  boils  withdraw 
it  immediately  and  take  out  the 
fish,  which  will  be  perfectly  cooked. 

Fish  must  always  be  put  into  cold 
court-bouillon. 

The  court-bouillon  may  be  prepared 
beforehand  and  cooled  down  before 
the  fish  is  put  in ; and  it  may  be  kept 
and  used  several  times,  provided  it  be 
reboiled  every  three  or  four  days,  a 
little  water  being  added  each  time 
to  supply  loss  by  evaporation. 

Naturally,  a court-bouillon  prepared 
beforehand  will  savor  more  strongly 
of  the  aromatic  ingredients  in  it  than 
a fresh  one. 

If  wine  is  abundant,  of  course  it 
may  be  substituted  for  water  almost 
entirely. 

Remark  that  in  countries  where 
wine  is  not  commonly  used  for  kitchen 
purposes  the  court-bouillon  may  be 
made  quite  satisfactorily  with  vine- 
gar and  lemons.  Even  in  France 
many  an  economical  housekeeper 
will  not  sacrifice  a bottle  of  white 
wine  to  boil  a fish.  With  wine,  of 
course,  the  result  is  more  delicate  and 
richer,  but  it  is  not  necessary.  Both 
fresh-water  and  sea  fish  may  be  ad- 
vantageously cooked  in  court-bouillon. 

In  broiling  fish,  if  the  fish  is 
small  have  a clear,  hot  fire.  If  large, 
the  fire  must  be  moderate ; otherwise 
the  outside  of  the  fish  would  be  burned 
before  the  inside  is  cooked.  If  large, 
split  the  fish.  As  a rule,  it  is  well  to 
rub  oil  or  butter  over  a fish  before 
broiling. 

In  baking  a fish,  do  not  cut  off  the 
head  and  tail.  Stuff  it.  Sew  it  up, 
or  wind  a tape  several  times  around 
the  fish.  Lay  several  pieces  of  pork, 
cut  in  strips,  across  the  top ; sprinkle 
over  water,  pepper,  salt,  and  bread 
crumbs ; put  some  hot  water  and  but- 
ter in  the  pan ; bake  in  a hot  oven, 
basting  very  often. 

Anchovies. — The  best  anchovies  are 
small  and  plump.  The  pickle  should 


be  red  and  the  scales  white.  They 
are  preserved  in  salt  brine,  and  the 
bottle  which  contains  them  should  be 
kept  closely  covered,  as  the  air  soon 
spoils  them.  They  should  be  washed 
in  cold  water  before  being  used. 

Anchovy,  Escaloped.  — Clean  and 
rinse  good  anchovy,  and  dry  on  clean 
linen.  Rub  a small  cake  - tin  with 
butter  and  strew  with  cracker-crumbs ; 
then  place  a layer  of  anchovy,  over 
which  strew  a table-spoonful  of  sugar 
and  bread  - crumbs,  then  a layer  of 
anchovy,  sugar,  and  crumbs.  Place 
a few  pieces  of  butter  on  the  top.  Beat 
yolks  of  two  eggs  with  a little  cream 
and  sugar,  and  pour  over  the  anchovy. 
Bake  in  a moderate  oven,  but  only  for 
a few  minutes,  till  the  egg  mixture  is 
settled.  Serve  in  the  tin. 

Anchovies  a la  Marseillaise. — Use 

salted  Norwegian  anchovies,  washed 
and  put  in  cold  water  for  two  hours. 
Split  them  from  the  back,  remove  the 
bone  and  scrape  the  skin,  and  cut  in 
four  lengthwise  strips.  Wipe  dry  and 
arrange  on  a small  platter.  Garnish 
with  chopped  parsley,  cooked  carrots 
and  baked  beets,  capers,  and  the 
white  and  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs 
chopped  separately  and  passed 
through  a fine  strainer.  Prepare  in 
a bowl  a French  dressing,  which  is 
poured  over  the  hors-d’oeuvre  just  be- 
fore serving.  Smoked  herrings  may 
be  prepared  and  served  in  the  same 
way,  being  sure  to  soak  and  prepare 
them  carefully,  in  which  case  they  are 
as  palatable  as  the  anchovies. 

Anchovies  with  Olives. — Stone  nine 
olives ; wash  and  fillet  five  anchovies, 
and  mince  them  finely  together  with 
parsley,  an  onion,  and  a little  cayenne ; 
pound  well  in  a mortar ; fill  the  olives 
with  a little  of  the  mixture  in  place  of 
the  stones,  cut  nine  small  rounds  of 
bread,  fry  them  in  lard  to  a light  gold- 
en brown,  drain  them,  and  when  cold 
put  an  olive  on  each  ; arrange  them  on 
a dish,  and  put  a little  mayonnaise 
dressing  on  each  olive  and  on  the 
toast. 


HO 


Anchovy  Salad 


FISH 


Carp 


Anchovy  Salad. — Wash,  skin,  and 
bone  two  anchovies,  put  in  water  to 
soak  half  an  hour,  drain,  and  dry 
them.  Cut  three  hard-boiled  eggs 
into  slices.  Arrange  the  leaves  of  a 
head  of  lettuce  in  a salad-bowl.  Add 
the  anchovies  and  sliced  eggs,  pour 
over  a plain  salad  dressing,  and  send 
to  the  table  very  cold. 

Bass,  Boiled. — Clean  the  fish,  mak- 
ing the  opening  as  small  as  possible. 
Put  it  in  a fish-kettle  with  water 
enough  to  cover  the  fish,  add  the  juice 
of  a large  lemon,  and  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  salt.  When  it  comes  to  a boil, 
set  back  and  let  it  simmer  for  half  an 
hour  for  a fish  about  four  pounds  in 
weight.  When  done,  drain  it  and 
serve  with  anchovy,  tomato,  or  any 
other  suitable  fish  sauce. 

Bloater  Salad. — Boil  two  Yarmouth 
bloaters,  remove  the  skin  and  bone, 
and  cut  the  fish  into  pieces.  Put  a 
head  of  bleached  endive  into  a salad- 
bowl,  add  the  fish,  with  three  an- 
chovies. Pour  over  a plain  salad 
dressing,  and  set  on  ice  until  very 
cold. 

Bluefish,  Stuffed  and  Baked. — Re- 
move the  fins  and  the  backbone  of 
a fresh  bluefish  weighing  3 or  3 lbs., 
scrape  it  clean,  wash  it  well,  and 
dry  it  with  a clean  towel.  Have  ready 
following  stuffing  : Boil  in  their 

jackets,  with  a little  salt,  one  quart 
of  good  potatoes ; do  not  boil  them 
too  soft ; peel  and  chop  them,  not  too 
fine.  Chop  fine  and  separately  three 
good-sized  white  onions ; chop,  also 
separately,  two  table  - spoonfuls  of 
parsley.  Put  one  table-spoonful  of 
butter  into  a small  saucepan,  add 
the  onions,  cook  four  minutes,  taking 
care  not  to  brown  them ; add  the 
onions  to  the  potatoes,  and  also  the 
chopped  parsley.  Season  with  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  salt-spoonful 
of  pepper,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter.  Mix  \tfell  together.  Spread 
inside  and  over  the  fish  one  tea- 
spoonful of  salt,  one  salt-spoonful 
of  pepper.  Stuff  the  fish  nicely  and 


stitch  it  with  white  thread.  Put  the 
fish  into  a baking-pan,  put  over  the 
fish  another  table  - spoonful  of  but- 
ter divided  in  small  lumps.  Make 
some  potato  balls  with  the  remain- 
ing stuffing,  and  place  them  around 
the  fish  in  the  baking  - pan.  Bake 
in  a moderate  oven  for  thirty  min- 
utes, basting  three  times  during  the 
cooking.  Serve  in  a long  platter, 
with  some  slices  of  lemon  and  small 
bunches  of  fresh  parsley.  A very 
nice  and  tasty  dish  can  be  made  with 
any  remnant  of  this  dish.  Mix 
the  fish  well  with  the  remaining 
potatoes,  put  it  into  shells,  sprinkle 
over  them  a little  grated  Swiss  cheese 
or  a little  bread-crumb,  finish  with 
one  teaspoonful  of  melted  butter 
over  each.  Put  into  a hot  oven  for 
five  minutes.  Send  very  hot  to  the 
table,  with  a napkin  over  the  platter. 

Bouilleabaisse.  — Any  kind  of  fish 
may  be  used  for  this  dish — porgies, 
haddock,  mackerel,  carp,  bass,  floun- 
ders, lobsters,  or  any  mixture  of  them, 
all  do  admirably  for  a bouillabaisse. 
Chop  two  onions  and  put  them  with 
a piece  of  butter  in  a stewpan,  and 
let  them  brown  without  burning ; 
then  arrange  the  fish  (which  has  been 
previously  cut  into  small  pieces)  in 
the  pan,  allowing  lb.  of  fish  for 
each  person.  Add  a small  quantity  of 
the  best  olive-oil,  a clove  of  garlic, 
two  bay-leaves,  a few  slices  of  lemon, 
two  or  three  tomatoes  or  a little 
tomato  sauce,  as  much  powdered 
saffron  as  will  go  on  the  point  of  a 
table-knife,  and,  lastly,  a glass  of 
white  wine  or  Madeira.  Put  in  suf- 
ficient stock  to  cover  the  whole,  and 
boil  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes, 
skimming  carefully  the  whole  time. 
When  ready  to  serve,  throw  in  a 
handful  of  chopped  parsley.  This 
quantity  of  flavoring  is  intended  for 
6 lbs.  of  fish.  Serve  in  separate 
dishes — that  is, the  fish  in  one,  and  the 
sauce  in  a small,  deep  dish  or  in  a 
large  entree  dish. 

Carp. — Carp  is  a pond  rather  than 
a river  fish,  and  requires  a thoroughly 

III 


Catfish 


FISH 


Cod,  Boiled 


good  sauce  to  be  served  with  it.  The 
best  carp  are  those  of  a medium 
size.  They  are  better  if  kept  a day 
before  they  are  used.  The  head  is 
considered  the  best  part.  Owing  to 
their  habit  of  burying  themselves 
in  mud,  the  flesh  of  these  fish  has  of- 
ten a disagreeable,  muddy  taste;  in 
cleaning  them,  therefore,  care  should 
be  taken  to  remove  the  gills,  as  they 
are  always  muddy,  to  rub  a little  salt 
down  the  backbone,  and  to  lay  them 
in  strong  salt  and  water  for  a couple 
of  hours ; then  wash  them  in  fresh 
cold  water.  A good  plan  also  is  to 
put  a piece  of  the  crumb  of  bread 
with  the  fish,  and  remove  it  before  it 
is  served. 

Catfish. — Cut  it  in  pieces  two  inches 
in  length  and  one  inch  in  thickness ; 
beat  three  eggs  very  light,  adding 
salt,  pepper,  and  enough  Worcester- 
shire sauce  to  flavor  them  ; dip  the  fish 
in  this  batter,  and  then  roll  in  corn 
meal  or  in  cracker- crumbs ; fry  in 
plenty  of  lard  until  it  is  a dark  brown  ; 
garnish  with  lemon,  sliced,  or  celery 
tops,  parsley,  or  lettqce  leaves. 

Caviare  is  served  with  toast.  The 
taste  for  caviare  is  supposed  to  be  ac- 
quired, but  the  relish  is  considered  a 
great  delicacy  by  many  epicures. 
The  can  containing  the  paste  would 
better  be  opened  several  hours  before 
it  is  needed.  Turn  the  contents  into 
a china  bowl,  and,  when  ready  to 
spread  it  on  narrow  strips  of  toast, 
beat  into  it  a teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice  and  enough  olive  oil  to  make  the 
mixture  into  a very  soft  paste.  Spread 
on  the  strips  of  hot,  buttered  toast,  and 
set  in  the  oven  for  a minute.  Caviare 
is  also  served  cold,  on  thin  slices  of 
buttered  bread. 

Chowder.  — Fry  % lb.  of  pickled 
pork,  which  has  been  cut  into  dice, 
and  a small  minced  onion  in  hot 
butter  or  lard  till  they  are  a deep 
brown.  Put  half  of  this  at  the  bottom 
of  a saucepan,  place  over  it  a soup- 
plateful  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  over 
that  some  thick  slices  of  uncooked 


sea -bass  or  turbot,  about  4 lbs.  in 
weight,  the  remainder  of  the  pork 
and  onions,  and  on  the  top  a second 
layer  of  potatoes.  Season  with  half 
a nutmeg,  grated,  a teaspoonful  of 
powdered  mace,  five  or  six  cloves, 
a table-spoonful  of  savory  herbs — 
of  which  one-third  should  be  thyme, 
one-third  parsley,  and  one-third  mar- 
joram— a teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  four 
or  five  white  peppercorns.  Pour  over 
all  half  a bottle  of  claret,  half  a bot- 
tle of  catsup,  and  sufficient  water  to 
cover  it.  Let  it  simmer  gently  until 
the  fish  is  cooked. 

Cod  a la  Bechamel. — Remove  the 
flesh  from  the  bones,  and  break  it 
into  convenient  pieces.  Put  a cup- 
ful of  white  stock,  nicely  seasoned, 
and  a cupful  of  new  milk  into  a 
saucepan ; thicken  it  with  a little 
flour  and  butter,  put  the  pieces  of 
fish  into  it,  and  let  them  remain  un- 
til quite  hot,  but  the  sauce  must  not 
be  allowed  to  boil.  Serve  with  the 
sauce  and  fish  in  the  middle  of  a hot 
dish,  and  place  a border  of  mashed 
potatoes  round  it.  Time,  twenty  min- 
utes. 

Cod,  Boiled. — In  cold  weather  cod 
is  better  for  being  kept  a day,  as,  if 
cooked  quite  fresh,  it  may  prove 
watery.  The  head  and  shoulders 
make  a good  dish  by  themselves. 
Wash  and  cleanse  the  inside  of  the 
fish  with  great  nicety,  and  especially 
the  backbone ; put  it  into  plenty  of 
cold  water,  in  which  a handful  of  salt 
has  been  thrown;  bring  it  to  a boil, 
skim  it  carefully,  let  it  boil  gently, 
and,  when  it  is  nearly  cooked,  draw 
it  to  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  re- 
main until  done.  Put  it  on  the  fish- 
plate over  the  boiling  water,  and  let  it 
drain  for  a minute  or  two,  and  dish 
it  on  a hot  napkin,  with  the  roe  and 
liver,  which  should  be  boiled  separate- 
ly, a little  scraped  horseradish,  or 
fried  oysters,  as  garnish.  Oyster  or 
anchovy  sauce,  or  plain  melted  butter, 
may  be  served  with  it.  Time  to  boil, 
twenty  minutes  for  a moderate-sized 
piece,  longer  for  a large  one.  When 


II 2 


Cod,  Broiled 


FISH 


Eels,  Broiled 


the  flesh  leaves  the  bone  easily  the 
fish  is  cooked  enough. 

Cod,  Broiled. — Wash  and  clean  a 
cod,  and  split  it  lengthwise.  Cut  it 
into  squares,  about  six  inches  each 
way,  and  broil  each  over  a clear  fire. 
Put  these  on  a hot  dish,  and  dress  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  thin  slices  of  butter. 

Codfish  a la  Bonne  Femme. — 

Rinse  in  cold  water  three  slices  of 
fresh  codfish  of  I lb.  each.  Peel  one 
quart  of  potatoes,  wash  them,  put 
them  in  a saucepan  with  two  quarts 
of  cold  water,  half  a table-spoonful  of 
salt,  four  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  clove 
stuck  in  an  onion.  Boil  twenty-five 
minutes,  then  add  the  slices  of  codfish. 
Cook  slowly  six  minutes,  remove  the 
codfish  to  a hot  platter,  drain  the 
potatoes,  and  keep  them  warm.  Re- 
move all  bones  and  skin  from  the 
fish,  dress  it  on  another  clean,  warm 
platter,  place  the  potatoes  around  it, 
and  have  this  gravy  prepared  and 
poured  over  the  fish  and  potatoes  : 
Put  in  a small  saucepan  one  heaping 
table-spoonful  of  sifted  flour,  one  of 
fresh  butter;  stir  over  the  fire  three 
minutes;  do  not  let  it  brown.  Pour 
over,  a little  at  a time,  one  pint  of  the 
water  in  which  the  fish  has  been 
cooked  ; strain  it  while  very  hot.  Sea- 
son with  half  a salt-spoonful  of  pep- 
per ; let  it  simmer  for  eight  minutes. 
Well-cooked  flour  is  easily  digested. 
Beat  two  yolks  of  raw  eggs  with  one 
teaspoonful  of  vinegar,  remove  the 
saucepan  from  the  fire,  add  this  to  it 
with  one  table-spoonful  of  fresh  but- 
ter, stir  half  a minute,  and  pour  over 
the  fish  and  potatoes.  Serve  very  hot. 
Salt  codfish  is  even  better  prepared  in 
this  manner,  only  you  have  to  soak  it 
overnight  in  a big  bowl  of  fresh  water, 
cooking  ten  minutes  instead  of  six. 

Codfish  Cakes. — The  fish  should  be 
cooked  the  day  before,  and  should 
have  simmered  (not  boiled)  very 
slowly.  Remove  the  bones,  and 
mince  it  quite  fine.  The  potatoes 
should  be  warm,  nicely  mashed  with 
butter  and  milk,  as  you  do  for  table 
8 


use,  and  should  be  in  the  proportion 
of  one -third  fish  and  two -thirds 
potato.  When  well  mixed,  add  a 
small  quantity  of  beaten  egg,  and 
mix  again  thoroughly.  If  it  seems 
too  dry,  add  more  egg,  and  make 
into  flat  cakes  about  two  or  three 
inches  in  diameter,  and  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  thick.  Fry  in  a 
pan  with  some  slices  of  salt  pork, 
which  can  be  sent  to  table  with  the 
cakes,  if  desired. 

Cod’s  Head  and  Shoulders. — Two 

hours  before  cooking,  clean  the  fish 
and  rub  the  inside  and  thick  part  with 
salt.  Lay  a cloth  in  a fish-kettle; 
upon  this  place  the  fish,  and  cover  with 
cold  water.  Simmer  gently  till  done. 
Lift  the  cloth  and  place  the  fish  on  a 
hot  dish,  slipping  the  cloth  from  under 
it.  Garnish  with  parsley  and  slices  of 
lemon. 

Codfish,  Matelote  of. — Remove  the 
bones  from  the  fish,  and  fill  it  with  a 
dressing  made  of  half  a pint  of  oysters, 
a scant  pint  of  bread-crumbs,  a little 
pepper,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  butter, 
half  an  onion,  an  egg,  and  half  a 
table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
Place  slices  of  pork  both  under  and 
over  the  fish.  Boil  the  bones  in  a pint 
of  water  and  pour  this  around  the  fish. 
Bake  an  hour,  and  baste  often  with 
the  gravy  and  butter.  Have  a bou- 
quet of  herbs  in  the  corner  of  the  bak- 
ing-pan. Pour  the  gravy  around  the 
fish. 

Curry  of  Fish. — Pick  the  fish  into 
good-sized  pieces  and  set  to  one  side. 
Put  into  a hot  saucepan  a table-spoon- 
ful of  butter  and  one  of  chopped  onion. 
When  the  onion  is  cooked  stir  in  a 
teaspoonful  of  curry  powder,  and, 
lastly,  a cupful  of  boiling  water  or  milk 
and  cook  ten  minutes.  Add  the  fish, 
about  ft  lb.;  turn  on  a hot  platter 
and  sprinkle  chopped  parsley  over 
it.  Garnish  with  thick  half-slices  of 
lemon 


Eels,  Broiled. — Skin,  and  clean  well 
with  salt  to  remove  all  slime,  slit  down 
113 


Eels,  Stewed 


FISH 


Fish,  Coquilles  of 


the  back  and  remove  the  bone,  cut  into 
good-sized  pieces,  rub  the  inside  of 
each  piece  with  egg,  and  then  sprinkle 
the  following  over  the  pieces  : Bread- 
crumbs, parsley,  sweet  herbs,  minced 
finely,  pepper,  salt,  and  a little  nut- 
meg. Broil  over  a clear  fire  till  of  a 
nice  brown  color.  Serve  with  pars- 
ley and  butter. 

Eels,  Stewed. — Wash  and  skin  2 
lbs.  of  eels,  cut  them  in  pieces  three 
inches  long,  pepper  and  salt  them,  and 
put  them  into  a stewpan.  Pour  in  one 
pint  of  good  soup  stock,  adding  one 
large  onion,  shredded,  three  cloves, 
a teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon- peel, 
and  a wineglassful  of  port  wine.  Stew 
gently  half  an  hour,  and  pour  into  a 
hot  dish.  Strain  the  gravy,  and  add 
a wineglassful  of  cream  thickened  with 
flour,  and  boil  up  once.  Pour  over 
the  eels  and  serve. 

Finnan-haddie  a la  Delmonico. — 

To  one  pint  of  cream  sauce  add  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  three  hard- 
boiled  eggs  cut  up  fine,  one  table- 
spoonful of  grated  Edam  cheese,  and 
pepper  to  taste.  One  pound  of  finnan- 
haddie,  picked  fine,  should  be  added 
to  this  mixture,  and  the  whole  thor- 
oughly heated. 

Finnan-haddie,  Broiled. — Buy  the 

imported  haddie,  if  possible,  cut  it  into 
small  squares,  skin,  and  parboil  them. 
Wipe  them  dry,  and  broil  over  a clear 
fire  until  they  are  lightly  browned. 
Lay  on  a hot  platter,  and  place  on  each 
a small  lump  of  butter  into  which  has 
been  worked  a few  drops  of  lemon- 
juice.  Serve  very  hot. 

Fish  Cakes. — Make  a savory  gravy 
by  boiling  down  the  heads,  tails, 
fins,  and  bones  of  any  fish,  with 
water  enough  to  cover  them.  Add 
onion,  herbs,  pepper,  salt,  and  a very 
little  mace.  With  the  meat,  when 
well  minced,  mix  a third  part  of  the 
quantity  of  bread  - crumbs,  and  a 
flavoring  of  the  same  kind  as  that 
used  for  gravy.  Moisten  with  melted 


butter,  bind  with  white  of  egg,  and 
fry  in  butter  till  light  brown.  When 
the  gravy  has  been  strained,  put  it, 
with  the  cake,  into  a stewpan,  cover 
close,  and  stew  gently  for  a quarter 
of  an  hour.  While  the  cake  is  being 
fried  turn  a plate  over  it.  Time, 
eight  to  ten  minutes  to  fry. 

Fish  Chowder.  — Fry  seven  slices 
of  pork  for  a haddock  weighing  5 
or  6 lbs.  Then  fry  in  the  fat  two 
good-sized  onions.  Pare  and  slice 
ten  potatoes.  Cut  the  haddock  into 
pieces  about  the  right  size  for  serving. 
Put  into  an  iron  pot  a layer  of  fish, 
then  one  of  potatoes,  sprinkle  over  this 
some  of  the  onion  (sliced),  some  pep- 
per, salt,  and  a little  flour,  one  or  two 
slices  of  pork,  then  another  layer  of 
fish,  potatoes,  etc.,  until  all  has  been 
used.  Pour  in  the  fat,  cover  the  whole 
with  boiling  water,  and  cook  from 
twenty  minutes  to  half  an  hour, 
according  to  the  thickness  of  the 
fish.  About  ten  minutes  before  serv- 
ing split  ten  hard  crackers,  dip  them 
in  cold  water,  and  add  them  to  the 
chowder  with  about  a pint  of  milk. 
If  this  recipe  is  used  for  cooking  in 
the  open  air — chowder-making  being 
a favorite  amusement  in  some  places 
— the  pork  can  be  fried  in  the  iron 
pot.  See  also  Bouilleabaisse. 

Fish,  Coquilles  of.  — Take  cold 
boiled  fish  and  pick  free  of  bones  and 
skin  ; break  into  small  pieces ; p\it  into 
a saucepan,  with  salt  and  pepper  to 
season.  To  every  pint  add  a table- 
spoonful of  thick  cream,  half  a pint  of 
boiling  water,  a table-spoonful  of  but- 
ter rolled  in  flour,  and  a teaspoonful 
of  anchovy  sauce.  Stir  over  the  fire 
until  well  heated.  Butter  some  shells, 
sprinkle  with  fried  bread-crumbs,  fill 
with  the  mixture.  Cover  the  top  with 
fried  crumbs,  and  set  in  the  oven  to 
heat.  Serve  on  a napkin. 

Another  way  : — Take  a large  scal- 
lop shell  or  a silver  shell  made  for 
the  purpose.  Fill  two-thirds  of  the 
space  of  the  dish  with  cold  fish  well 
picked  to  small  bits — cod,  halibut,  or 
sea-bass  to  be  preferred.  Cover  with 


Fish  a la  Crfeme 


FISH 


Fish  a la  Paris 


tartar  sauce  in  which  is  a suggestion 
of  onion.  Cover  it  well  and  mix  some 
of  it ; then  fill  the  other  third  of  the 
shell  with  any  cold  vegetables — pota- 
to, carrot,  and  green  pease — and  cover 
that  with  the  same  sauce.  It  should 
be  heated  through  very  hot  and  served 
at  once.  The  fish  must  be  well  and 
highly  seasoned. 

Fish  a la  Creme. — Put  a pint  of 
sweet  milk  on  to  boil.  Rub  I oz.  of 
butter  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  corn- 
starch together  and  stir  in  the  boiling 
milk.  Add  a teaspoonful  of  onion- 
juice,  a little  chopped  parsley,  and 
pounded  mace.  Let  boil  two  or  three 
minutes.  Add  the  beaten  yolks  of 
two  eggs.  Take  from  the  fire  and 
strain.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Put  a layer  of  this  sauce  in  th§  bottom 
of  a deep  baking-dish,  then  a thick 
layer  of  cold  boiled  or  baked  fish, 
chopped  fine,  then  another  layer  of 
sauce  and  more  fish,  until  the  dish  is 
full.  Put  the  sauce  on  top,  sprinkle 
over  it  grated  bread-crumbs,  and  set 
it  in  the  oven  to  brown.  Serve  in  the 
dish  in  which  it  was  cooked. 

Fish,  Croquettes  of. — Mix  over  the 
fire  a teaspoonful  of  flour,  i oz.  of 
butter,  and  half  a gill  of  cream. 
Add,  off  the  fire,  the  yolk  of  an  egg, 
a little  seasoning,  and  ^ lb,  of  cold, 
dressed  fish  beaten  to  a paste.  Let 
the  mixture  cool  and  form  it  into 
balls  ; let  these  be  egged  and  breaded. 
Fry  to  a nice  brown  in  hot  fat,  and 
serve  with  gravy  made  by  boiling 
down  the  bones,  fins,  and  tails  with 
an  onion.  Add  an  anchovy  and 
seasoning  to  taste. 

Fish  and  Cucumber  Salad.  — For 

this  very  delicious  salad  either  sal- 
mon or  halibut  may  be  used.  Cut  it 
into  slices  a full  inch  thick,  selecting 
a piece  from  near  the  tail.  Tie  the 
slices  up  in  a piece  of  cheese-cloth  or 
mosquito-netting,  and  plunge  this 
into  a pot  of  boiling  water,  to  which 
you  have  added  a dessert-spoonful 
of  salt  and  a table-spoonful  of  vin- 
egar. Cook  for  about  half  an  hour. 


When  the  fish  is  done  take  it  from 
the  cloth,  and  set  it  aside  until  per- 
fectly cold.  When  it  is  to  be  served, 
cut  the  slices  into  neat  pieces  of 
uniform  size,  a piece  being  enough 
for  a single  portion.  Lay  each  on  a 
lettuce  leaf,  and  serve  the  fish  with 
cucumbers  sliced  as  thin  as  paper 
and  ice-cold.  Mask  all  with  a may- 
onnaise dressing.  This  is,  of  course, 
a heavy  salad,  and  more  suitable  for 
luncheon  or  supper  than  for  dinner. 

Fish  Cutlets  (with  tomato  sauce). — 
Take  any  large,  firm  fish  ; bone,  skin, 
and  slice  into  cutlet  shape.  Sprinkle 
with  pepper  and  salt;  dip  each  cutlet 
first  in  grated  cracker,  then  in  sweet 
milk  and  egg  beaten  together,  and 
again  in  the  cracker  meal.  Fry  in 
hot  batter.  When  done,  take  up, 
arrange  on  a dish,  and  pour  tomato 
sauce  around  the  cutlets.  Serve 
very  hot. 

Fish,  Fried  or  Sauted. — Fish  to 
be  nicely  fried  should  be  wiped 
very  dry,  and  floured  before  being 
put  into  the  pan  or  pot  of  boiling 
fat.  Next  to  oil,  clarified  dripping 
is  the  best.  Shake  the  pan  gently 
until  hot  through.  If  you  want 
the  fish  to  look  very  nice,  dip  it  into 
egg,  and  sprinkle  with  bread-crumbs 
before  frying.  Drain  before  the  fire, 
and  serve  on  a hot  napkin. 

Fish  en  Matelote.  — Take  any 
seasonable  fish,  clean,  and  cut  in 
slices  two  or  three  inches  long. 
Sprinkle  with  salt,  and  set  aside. 
Peel  and  slice  two  onions,  put  in  a 
saucepan,  and  cover  with  a little 
water;  let  boil  until  tender,  drain, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  pour  over 
a teacupful  of  hot  water  and  half  a 
teacupful  of  sherry,  put  the  fish  in  the 
saucepan,  and  set  on  the  fire  to  sim- 
mer. When  ready  to  take  up,  roll 
a table-spoonful  of  butter  in  flour 
and  drop  in;  stir  until  boiling,  and 
serve. 

Fish  a la  Paris. — Cut  any  season- 
able fish  into  small  pieces ; dredge  with 


US 


Fish  Pate 


FISH 


Fish,  Sauce  for  Boiled 


salt,  pepper,  and  flour;  fry  brown  in 
butter ; turn  into  a pot.  Add  a finely 
chopped  onion.  Pour  over  a pint  of 
boiling  water,  to  which  add  half  a tea- 
cupful of  vinegar,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  olive  oil,  and  a teaspoonful  each  of 
ground  cloves,  mace,  and  allspice. 
Cover  closely,  and  let  simmer  slowly 
for  one  hour.  Take  up  in  a heated 
dish,  garnish  with  sweet  fennel,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

Fish  Patd. — This  is  an  excellent 
way  of  using  any  cold  fish  which  may 
be  left  over  from  dinner.  Free 
thoroughly  from  bones  and  shred  fine 
enough  fish  to  fill  a pint  measure ; add 
to  it  one  quart  of  milk,  two  eggs,  one- 
quarter  of  a cupful  of  flour  mixed 
smoothly  with  a little  milk  which  has 
been  reserved  from  the  quart.  Season 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg,  one- 
quarter  of  a teaspoonful  of  each.  Mix 
the  milk,  flour,  eggs,  and  spice  smooth- 
ly together.  Set  it  over  the  fire,  and 
stir  until  it  is  as  thick  as  cream.  Put 
in  a deep  baking-dish  alternate  layers 
of  sauce,  fish,  and  bread-crumbs,  in 
the  order  named,  and  set  in  the  oven 
until  it  is  slightly  browned.  Very 
little  time  is  required,  as  almost  all 
the  ingredients  have  been  previously 
cooked.  It  is  an  excellent  dish  for 
breakfast,  lunch,  or  tea. 

Fish  Rechauffde  is  always  good 
heated  over  in  the  white  sauce,  which 
is  the  one  essential  for  most  dishes 
made  of  “ left-overs."  Ordinary  scal- 
lop shells,  which  are  to  be  picked 
up  at  the  sea-shore  or  purchased  very 
cheaply  at  the  hardware  store,  are 
really  prettier  than  the  more  ex- 
pensive ramekins  which  are  usually 
used.  Scalloped  or  creamed  fish 
baked  in  them  is  improved  by  the 
addition  of  a spoonful  of  chopped 
pickle  or  cooked  green  peppers  scat- 
tered over  the  top  after  they  are 
baked. 

Fish  a la  Reine. — Pick  2 lbs.  of  any 
cold,  fresh  fish  into  small  pieces.  Put 
2 ozs.  of  butter  in  a frying-pan,  let 
melt,  and  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of 

j 


sifted  flour.  Mix  and  thin  with  a pint 
of  sweet  milk.  Add  the  fish,  with  a tea- 
cupful of  chopped  mushrooms,  a tea- 
spoonful of  salt,  a dash  of  pepper,  and 
a table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
Stand  the  frying-pan  over  a kettle  of 
water  until  the  fish  is  heated.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  mix  in  the 
stew.  Serve  in  shells. 

Fish  Salad. — The  remains  of  any 
solid  fish,  such  as  cod,  flounder,  hali- 
but, bass,  etc.,  make  very  good  salads, 
for  which  the  following  sauce  will  be 
found  excellent,  as  it  will  be  also  for 
a vegetable  salad  : Bruise  the  yolks 
of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  with  a wooden 
spoon  and  moisten  with  a raw  egg; 
put  this  egg  mixture  into  a bowl,  with 
two  salt-spoonfuls  of  salt,  a little  pep- 
per, and  a pinch  of  cayenne ; add  by 
degrees  oil  and  vinegar,  alternately, 
until  the  required  quantity,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  oil  and  one  of  vine- 
gar, which  may  be  tarragon,  has  been 
mixed.  Keep  the  sauce  stirred  and 
well  smoothed  with  the  spoon.  If 
liked,  add  half  a teaspoonful  of  shred 
onion,  and  the  same  of  chevril  and 
tarragon,  if  plain  vinegar  has  been 
used  with  the  oil.  Two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  thick  cream  or  melted  butter 
will  make  the  sauce  richer  and  better, 
and  the  whites  of  eggs  may  be  chop- 
ped and  added  to  the  salad. 

Fish  Sandwich. — Chop  the  hard- 
boiled  yolks  of  four  eggs,  pound 
the  coral  of  a lobster,  add  a table- 
spoonful of  butter  and  two  salted 
anchovies,  boned  and  skinned ; mix 
all  together  into  a paste ; season  with 
salt,  cayenne,  and  a squeeze  of  lemon- 
juice.  Slice  stale  brown  bread  very 
thin,  spread  with  the  mixture,  lay  a 
crisp  leaf  of  lettuce  over  each  slice, 
cover  with  another  slice  of  bread,  cut 
the  sandwiches  in  halves,  and  serve 
on  a napkin. 

Fish,  Sauce  for  Boiled. — Take  some 
of  the  water  in  which  the  fish  has  been 
boiled,  and  simmer  in  it  for  a quarter 
of  an  hour  an  onion,  an  anchovy,  and 
a table-spoonful  of  walnut  catsup; 


Fish  Steaks  au  Gratin 


FISH 


Flounders,  Fillets  of 


add  a pint  of  good  veal  gravy,  strain, 
and  thicken  with  butter* and  flour. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  fish  broth 
will  be  enough  for  this  quantity. 

Fish  Steaks  au  Gratin. — For  this, 
steaks  of  halibut,  cod,  or  any  other 
firm,  white  fish  can  be  used.  Cut 
them  about  an  inch  thick  and  three 
inches  square.  Rub  the  bottom  of  a 
small  dripping-pan  with  a cut  onion, 
and  then  butter  it  well.  Pepper  and 
salt  the  squares  of  fish  lightly  on 
both  sides,  lay  them  in  the  pan,  and 
sprinkle  them  with  chopped  parsley 
and  a little  very  finely  minced  onion, 
or  a few  drops  of  onion-juice.  Put  a 
bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a hazel-nut 
on  each,  squeeze  over  them  the  juice 
of  a lemon,  and  bake  for  twenty 
minutes,  covered  half  the  time.  Serve 
plain  or  with  a bechamel  sauce. 

Flounders  (Parisian  style).  — Cut 
the  fins  and  the  heads  off  some  small, 
fresh  flounders,  not  weighing  over 
I lb.  Remove  the  dark  skin,  wash 
and  dry  them.  Lay  them  in  a deep 
dish  with  enough  fresh  milk  to  cover 
them,  and  leave  them  twenty  min- 
utes. Drain  and  dry  them  again ; 
sprinkle  over  each  one  salt-spoonful 
of  salt  and  half  as  much  pepper.  Put 
in  a frying-pan  one  table-spoonful  of 
butter  for  each  flounder.  As  soon  as 
it  is  melted,  put  the  flounders  in  the 
pan,  not  touching  each  other.  Cook 
the  side  with  the  white  skin  first ; 
cook  each  side  six  minutes,  not  fast, 
and  turn  them  over  carefully.  Dress 
them  on  a hot  platter  and  keep  them 
warm  in  the  oven,  with  the  door  open. 
Have  prepared  one  teaspoonful  of 
shallots,  chopped  fine;  put  it  in  the 
same  butter  used  to  cook  the  fish ; 
cook  three  minutes,  stirring  mean- 
while. Finish  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  wine  vinegar,  letting  it  only  get 
warm ; remove  the  pan  from  the 
fire,  and  add  one  teaspoonful  of 
good,  fresh  butter  for  each  flounder. 
Mix  well  and  pour  over  the  fish. 
Sprinkle  over  one  teaspoonful  of 
parsley,  chopped  fine ; put  at  each 
end  of  the  dish  a small  bunch  of 


fried  parsley  and  a few  slices  of 
lemon.  Put  in  the  centre  of  the 
platter  one  pint  of  Parisian  potatoes. 
Serve  very  hot.  If  shallots  are 
not  at  hand,  use  onions  instead. 

Flounders,  Fillets  of  Sole  (in 
potato-boat). — Remove  the  heads  and 
skins  of  four  very  fresh  flounders 
not  exceeding  Yz  lb.  each ; make 
four  fillets  of  each,  trim  them  neatly, 
wash  and  dry  them  with  a clean 
towel.  Beat  three  eggs  with  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  black  pepper.  Dip  each 
fillet  thoroughly  in  it,  and  then  roll  in 
fine  bread-crumbs,  freshly  made.  F old 
each  fillet  funnel-shape,  and  secure 
with  a wooden  toothpick.  Put  them, 
not  touching  each  other,  in  the  fry- 
ing-basket, and  plunge  in  plenty 
of  good,  hot  fat,  not  quite  boiling. 
After  five  minutes  they  will  be  crisp 
and  of  a golden  color.  Lift  up  the 
basket  and  remove  the  fillets  to  a 
warm  platter,  remove  the  tooth- 
picks, and  have  ready  a boat  made 
of  potatoes,  in  which  they  should 
be  served  at  once.  Fried  dishes  must 
never  wait  a moment,  otherwise  they 
lose  their  crispness.  For  the  boat, 
peel  and  slice  thinly  two  quarts  of 
long  potatoes,  and  cut  the  slices 
straw  fashion.  Wash  them  only  after 
peeling,  and  do  not  dry  them ; their 
humidity  will  make  them  stick  to  the 
form  of  the  boat.  There  must  be 
two  boat  forms,  one  larger  than  the 
other.  They  are  made  with  a piece 
of  galvanized-wire  mosquito-netting. 
The  second  boat  must  be  half  an 
inch  smaller  than  the  first  all  around. 
When  the  first  boat  is  all  garnished 
with  the  straw  potatoes,  carefully 
place  the  smaller  one  inside,  not 
disturbing  the  potatoes ; the  second 
form  will  keep  them  in  shape.  The 
frying-pan  being  usually  round,  it 
is  wise  to  use  the  fish-kettle  instead. 
Plunge  the  boats  in  plenty  of  very  hot 
fat,  and  fry  for  six  minutes.  Lift 
up  the  tray,  let  drain  for  half  a minute, 
and  remove  with  care  the  smaller 
boat.  Remove  the  potato-boat  to  a 
warm,  long  platter.  Arrange  im* 


117 


Flounders  a la  Normandie,  etc.  FISH 


Flounders 


mediately  the  fillets  in  it.  While 
dressing  the  dish,  fry  the  remaining 
potatoes  in  the  same  way,  but  for 
only  four  minutes.  Serve  around  the 
boat,  and  decorate  with  a few  large 
shrimps.  This  dish  is  perfectly  novel 
in  the  way  it  is  served,  and  not  ex- 
pensive; it  has  a very  pretty  effect. 

Flounders  a la  Normandie,  Pau- 
piettes  of. — Wash  the  fillets  of  three 
flounders  weighing  about  I % lbs. 
each,  and  dry  in  a clean  towel. 
Sprinkle  over  each  fillet  half  a salt- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  half  of  same 
quantity  of  pepper.  Place  in  a small 
saucepan  half  a table  - spoonful  of 
butter,  which  melt,  but  do  not  brown. 
Into  this  drop  one  table-spoonful  of 
onion,  chopped  fine,  and  cook  for 
three  minutes.  Chop  fine  two  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  add  to  the  onions,  with 
one  table-spoonful  of  finely  chopped 
parsley.  Add  one  table-spoonful  of 
fresh  butter,  and  season  with  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  salt-spoonful 
of  pepper,  and  blend  until  of  pastelike 
consistency.  Divide  evenly  in  as 
many  portions  as  there  are  fillets, 
and  spread  the  mixture  over  each 
one.  Scrape  three  dozen  medium- 
sized and  very  fresh  mussels.  Wash 
them  thoroughly,  and  dry  them 
with  a clean  towel.  Put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  one  gill  of  cold  water, 
and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Stir  them 
so  that  each  one  opens,  remove  from 
the  pan,  and  detach  each  mussel 
from  the  shell.  Place  one  over  each 
paupiette,  roll  the  fillet,  and  tie  it  with 
a string.  Add  to  the  liquor  of  the 
mussels  in  the  saucepan  half  a pint 
of  good  cream.  Bring  to  boiling- 
point,  and  place  the  paupiettes  in  it. 
Cook  gently  for  six  minutes,  turning 
them  around  from  time  to  time. 
Take  out,  place  them  on  a platter 
and  cut  the  strings,  and  keep  hot. 
Take  the  remaining  mussels  and  put 
them  in  the  sauce  to  boil  for  two 
minutes.  Replace  them  in  their 
shells,  and  arrange  them  around 
the  paupiettes.  Mix  two  yolks  of 
eggs  with  four  table -spoonfuls  of 
cream,  half  a table-spoonful  of  fresh 


butter,  and  one  dozen  drops  of  lemon- 
juice.  Remove  the  saucepan  from  the 
fire,  and  pour  in  the  cream  mixture. 
Mix  well.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the 
fish,  using  a strainer. 

Flounders,  Stuffed,  Fillets  of. — 

Have  cut  in  fillets  three  flounders 
weighing  4 lbs.  altogether;  the  small 
ones  are  most  delicate.  Cut  the 
thin  end  of  each  fillet,  wash  and  dry 
them  well  in  flour  which  has  been 
previously  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Butter  thickly  a roasting- 
pan  and  put  half  of  the  fillets  in  it, 
side  by  side.  Have  ready  fine  herbs, 
as  follows  : Chop  very  fine  one  tea- 

spoonful of  white  onions,  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  parsley,  one  of  white 
celery,  quarter  of  a can  of  French 
mushrooms.  Reserve  the  balance  of 
the  mushrooms  for  future  use.  Mix 
half  a table-spoonful  of  flour  with 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter ; add 
to  the  chopped  fine  herbs  also  the 
yolks  of  two  raw  eggs.  Season  with 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  quarter  of  a 
one  of  red  pepper.  Mix  thoroughly. 
Put  a layer  of  this  stuffing  over  each 
fillet,  and  cover  with  another  fillet, 
sandwich  fashion.  Place  a buttered, 
white  paper  over  them.  Cook  in  hot 
oven  for  twelve  minutes.  Drain  the 
remaining  mushrooms,  remove  the 
paper,  add  them  to  the  fillets,  cook 
three  minutes  more.  Serve  on  a 
hot  platter,  and  squeeze  over  them 
a quarter  of  a lemon.  Arrange  the 
mushrooms  around,  and  pour  the 
gravy  over. 

Flounders,  Vol-au-vent  a la  Nor- 
mandie. — Buy  the  pastry  shell  from 
a first-class  caterer ; it  will  save  the 
trouble  of  making  the  crust,  which 
must  be  very  light.  Select  a flounder 
weighing  2 lbs.,  and  have  it  cut  at  the 
fish  market  into  fillets.  Have  ready 
a quart  of  mussels  of  medium  size. 
Wash  the  shells  and  put  in  a sauce- 
pan in  hot  water  for  ten  minutes,  when 
the  shells  will  open  and  the  contents 
may  be  readily  removed.  Drain  the 
liquor  from  a quart  of  oysters  and  put 


Haddock,  Baked 


FI  S H 


Herring  Salad 


them  in  boiling  water  with  two  pinches 
of  salt  for  one  minute;  drain  again, 
wipe  with  a cloth,  and  cut  off  the  hard 
part.  To  prepare  the  sauce  Norman- 
die, slice  fine  two  medium-sized  carrots 
and  two  onions,  and  put  in  a saucepan 
with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  two 
sprigs  of  parsley,  one  branch  of  celery, 
quarter  of  a bay- leaf,  and  one  clove. 
Cook  twelve  minutes,  stirring  three 
times,  that  it  may  become  brown  ; add 
one  pint  of  boiled  milk  with  half  a tea- 
spoonful of  salt  and  one  pinch  of  pep- 
per. Cook  slowly  for  twenty-five  min- 
utes. Strain,  pressing  all  the  vege- 
tables as  fine  as  a puree.  Return  the 
mixture  to  the  fire  in  a clean  sauce- 
pan, add  one  pint  of  very  good  cream, 
and  cook  ten  minutes.  Put  in  the 
fillets  of  flounder,  well  washed,  and 
dried  in  a towel.  Cook  two  minutes 
on  each  side,  remove  without  break- 
ing to  a platter,  and  put  aside  to  keep 
warm.  Add  to  the  sauce  x/z  lb.  of  small 
mushrooms,  well  cleaned,  and  in  two 
minutes  add  the  mussels  and  oysters. 
Cook  all  two  minutes.  Have  ready 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  table-spoonful 
of  butter ; mix  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  cream,  remove  the  saucepan  from 
the  fire,  pour  the  mixed  eggs  in  it,  stir- 
ring gently.  Have  crust  warm,  and 
put  in  first  one  layer  of  flounders  and 
one  layer  of  the  oysters  and  mussels 
from  the  saucepan,  another  layer  of 
fillets,  and  finish  with  the  balance  of 
mussels  and  oysters.  Put  the  pastry 
cover  over,  and  serve  immediately  in 
a round  platter  garnished  with  six 
crawfish.  The  crawfish  must  be  well 
washed,  and  cooked  with  a sliced  on- 
ion in  half  a glassful  of  vinegar  and 
half  a glassful  of  water,  two  sprigs  of 
parsley,  one  pinch  of  salt,  and  one  of 
pepper.  Cover  the  saucepan,  stirring 
three  times  to  cook  evenly.  Wipe  and 
dry  the  crawfish. 

Haddock,  Baked. — Clean  the  fish, 
scrape  the  scales  off,  and  fill  it  with  a 
good  veal  force-meat.  Sew  up  the 
opening  with  a little  strong  thread, 
and  put  it  into  a pie-dish  with  about 
2 ozs.  of  butter,  broken  into  small 
pieces ; baste  frequently,  and  bake  in 


a moderate  oven.  Serve  on  a hot  dish 
with  parsley  and  sliced  lemon.  It  is 
an  improvement  to  rub  the  haddock 
over  with  beaten  egg  and  sprinkle 
it  with  bread-crumbs  before  baking. 
Send  melted  butter  and  anchovy  sauce 
to  table  in  a tureen.  Time,  a mod- 
erate-sized haddock,  half  an  hour  or 
more. 

Halibut,  Boiled. — Place  the  piece 
of  halibut  in  your  fish-pot  upon  the 
strainer,  or,  if  you  have  not  a strainer, 
pover  the  bottom  of  the  pot  with  a 
dish,  upon  which  place  a towel,  so 
arranged  that  you  can  lift  it  out  by 
the  corners,  and  upon  this  lay  your 
fish.  Rub  it  over  with  some  coarse 
salt.  Cover  it  with  cold  water.  Put 
it  upon  the  fire,  and  when  it  begins  to 
boil  set  it  back  where  it  will  simmer 
slowly  until  done. 

Halibut,  Breaded. — Take  a thick, 
square  piece  of  halibut.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper ; lay  in  a baking-pan 
or  dish.  Sprinkle  with  minced  pars- 
ley and  garlic,  pour  over  one  teacupful 
of  chopped  tomatoes,  cover  with  a.layer 
of  grated  bread-crumbs  and  bits  of 
butter.  Set  in  a hot  oven  and  bake 
half  an  hour.  Serve  in  the  dish  or 
pan  in  which  it  is  cooked. 

Halibut,  Coquilles  of. — Cook  i lb.  of 
halibut,  chop  into  small  pieces,  put  in 
a saucepan  with  half  a teaspoonful  of 
salt,  a dash  of  cayenne  and  white  pep- 
per each,  and  half  a cupful  of  rich 
cream ; set  on  the  fire.  Rub  I oz. 
each  of  butter  and  flour  together,  and 
add  to  the  boiling  mixture;  season 
with  a teaspoonful  of  mushroom  sauce, 
stir  well,  and  take  from  the  fire.  But- 
ter some  shells,  sprinkle  with  fried 
bread-crumbs,  fill  with  the  mixture, 
cover  with  grated  bread-crumbs,  fried, 
and  set  in  the  oven  until  well  heated. 
Serve  on  a napkin. 

Herring  Salad. — Soak  two  good, 
salt  Dutch  herrings  in  water  for  twen- 
ty-four hours;  remove  the  bones  and 
cut  in  small  dice.  Cut  also  an  equal 
amount  of  cooked  meat  of  any  kind. 


119 


Herring  Salad 


FISH 


Mackerel,  Baked 


and  boiled  potatoes,  apples,  and  beets, 
but  only  half  the  amount  of  each  as 
compared  to  the  meat.  Mince  one 
table-spoonful  of  capers  and  four  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  the  yolks  and  the  whites 
separately.  Set  apart  a little  of  each 
kind  for  the  trimming  of  the  salad, 
and  mix  all  the  rest  carefully,  so  as 
not  to  mash  it,  with  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  sweet  cream,  two  of  sweet-oil, 
two  of  vinegar,  and  pepper,  sugar,  and 
French  mustard  to  taste.  Cut  a few 
boiled  potatoes  and  beets  in  thin 
slices  and  make  figures  with  a vege- 
table cutter.  Rub  a form  with  sweet- 
oil,  and  cover  the  bottom  and  sides 
tastefully  with  these  figures.  Pour 
in  the  salad  carefully,  and  press  it 
down  somewhat.  Now  turn  the  form 
upside  down  on  a platter,  and  let  it 
rest  awhile  until  the  salad  is  settled. 
Then  garnish,  as  your  fancy  may 
be,  with  the  white,  yellow,  and  red  of 
the  eggs,  potatoes,  apples,  beets,  and 
herring.  Make  a gravy  of  cream,  oil, 
vinegar,  sugar,  pepper,  and  mustard 
to  taste.  Instead  of  herring,  salt 
salmon  may  be  used  if  preferable. 

Herring  Salad,  Smoked. — Put  the 

crisp  leaves  of  a head  of  lettuce  in  a 
salad-bowl,  skin  and  remove  the  bone 
from  two  smoked  herrings,  chop  them 
and  mix  with  the  lettuce ; pour  over  a 
plain  salad  dressing  to  which  have 
been  added  the  chopped  whites  of  two 
hard-boiled  eggs. 

Jellyfish.  — Fill  a deep  glass  dish 
half  full  of  jelly.  Have  as  many 
small  fish -moulds  as  will  lie  in  it. 
Fill  the  moulds  with  blanc-mange. 
When  this  is  cold,  and  the  jelly  also, 
lay  the  fish  in  it  as  if  going  in  dif- 
ferent directions ; put  in  a little  more 
liquid  jelly;  let  it  get  hard,  to  keep 
the  fish  in  place;  then  fill  the  dish. 
The  jelly  should  be  very  light-colored 
and  perfectly  transparent. 

Mackerel,  Baked. — Split  open  from 
the  back  a fresh  mackerel  of  about 
2 lbs.,  remove  the  backbone,  wash 
and  dry  well,  sprinkle  the  inside  with 
one  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a one 


of  black  pepper,  and  prepare  this 
stuffing : Drain  the  liquid  off  one 

quart  of  oysters;  select  one  dozen  of 
the  largest  ones  and  put  them  aside ; 
chop  coarsely  the  balance,  also  two 
medium-sized  white  onions.  Cook 
the  onions  six  minutes  in  one  table- 
spoonful of  butter,  add  the  chopped 
oysters,  with  three  hard-boiled  eggs, 
also  chopped,  also  one  table-spoonful 
of  finely  chopped  parsley ; season  with 
one  salt-spoonful  of  salt  and  half  a 
one  of  pepper ; cook,  stirring  con- 
stantly, for  two  minutes ; cool  off ; 
finish  with  the  yolks  of  two  raw 
eggs  and  one  table-spoonful  of  but- 
ter. Stuff  the  fish  and  stitch  it.  But- 
ter well  a baking-pan,  put  the  fish 
in  it,  cover  it  with  a piece  of  white 
paper,  well  buttered,  and  bake  in  a 
hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Re- 
move the  paper  and  baste;  add  the 
remaining  oysters,  bake  five  minutes 
more,  dress  the  fish  on  a warm  platter, 
squeeze  a few  drops  of  lemon  over  it, 
and  place  the  oysters  on  small  pieces 
of  toast  spread  with  a thin  layer  of 
anchovy  paste.  Put  them  around 
the  fish,  with  a few  sprigs  of  parsley 
and  slices  of  lemon,  and  serve  ex- 
tremely hot. 

Mackerel,  Baked  Fillet  of.  — Re- 
move the  backbone  and  head  from  a 
large,  fresh  mackerel,  leaving  the 
skin.  Wash,  dry  well  with  a towel, 
and  place  the  roe  on  top.  Prepare  a 
seasoning  with  six  shallots  or  three 
small,  new  onions,  */z  lb.  of  mush- 
rooms, one  table-spoonful  of  parsley; 
chop  fine,  and  add  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one  salt-spoonful  of  pepper. 
Put  half  of  this  mixture  into  a well- 
buttered  baking  - dish  and  lay  the 
fish  over  it.  Add  six  table-spoonfuls 
of  dry,  white  wine;  cover  the  dish 
with  the  balance  of  the  seasoning, 
and  spread  over  three  table  - spoon- 
fuls of  well -browned  bread-crumbs. 
Moisten  the  top  with  one  and  a half 
table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  cover 
the  dish  with  a piece  of  buttered  paper, 
and  bake  in  a moderate  oven  eighteen 
minutes.  Remove  the  paper  from  the 
top  and  add  one  table-spoonful  of  but- 


120 


Mackerel,  Boiled 


FISH 


Redfish  Jelly 


ter,  divided  in  six  lumps.  Garnish 
the  dish  with  a few  slices  of  lemon 
and  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  send  at 
once  to  the  table  in  the  dish  in  which 
it  is  baked. 

Mackerel,  Boiled.  — Wash  the  salt 
from  a large  mackerel,  cut  off  the 
points  of  the  head  and  tail,  and 
sprinkle  on  a little  black  pepper,  and  a 
small  onion,  chopped  very  fine.  Cover 
the  fish  with  cold  water  and  put  over 
a clear  fire.  Boil  till  the  bones  are 
loose  from  the  flesh.  When  done, 
put  the  fish  on  a flat  dish,  cover  with 
small  pieces  of  butter  and  sprigs  of 
parsley,  or,  if  preferred,  pour  over  it  a 
good  drawn  butter. 

Mackerel,  Broiled  Fresh. — Mack- 
erel should  never  be  washed  before 
broiling,  but  merely  wiped  very  clean 
and  dry,  after  taking  out  the  gills  and 
insides.  Open  the  back,  put  in  a lit- 
tle pepper  and  salt,  and  spread  with 
a thin  coating  of  butter.  Broil  over  a 
clear  fire,  turning  it  when  half  done. 
When  sufficiently  cooked,  the  bone 
will  come  out  easily.  Remove  the 
bone ; chop  a little  parsley,  work  it  up 
with  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  and  a 
little  lemon  - juice,  and  place  this 
on  each  side  of  the  open  fish,  in  the 
place  of  the  bone.  Stand  before  the 
fire  till  the  butter  is  all  melted  in,  and 
serve  hot. 

Mackerel,  Spanish,  Salad. — Cut  the 

contents  of  a can  of  pickled  Span- 
ish mackerel  in  thin  slices  and  put 
it  in  a colander  to  drain  off  the  oil, 
then  set  on  the  ice.  Peel  half  of  two 
bunches  of  radishes,  selecting  the 
largest,  and  cut  in  thin  slices.  The 
balance  of  them  must  be  trimmed  in 
the  following  way : Cut  the  stems 
and  large  leaves,  keeping  the  small- 
est ; cut  the  roots  and  peel  off  evenly 
a small  part  around  the  roots.  With 
a sharp  knife  divide  the  remaining 
peel  into  small,  equal-sized  leaves. 
Remove  the  outer  leaves  from  a large 
head  of  lettuce  and  cut  the  heart 
in  six  parts.  Cut  the  large  leaves, 
stems  and  all,  in  small  pieces,  wash 


in  cold  water,  and  drain  in  a wire 
basket  or  in  a towel.  Boil  one  bunch 
of  medium-sized  red  beets  thirty  min- 
utes in  water  enough  to  cover  them. 
Drain  and  bake  in  a hot  oven  thirty 
minutes.  Peel,  slice  thin,  and  cool 
thoroughly.  Cut  six  gherkins  in 
thin  slices.  Make  a French  dressing. 
Decorate  with  the  radishes. 

Mullet  a la  Maitre  d’Hotel. — Clean 
four  mullet,  and  wipe  them  quickly. 
Score  them  to  the  depth  of  a quarter  of 
an  inch,  and  lay  them  to  steep  in  a 
small  wineglassful  of  salad  oil.  Add 
a salt-spoonful  of  salt  and  one  of  pep- 
per, an  onion,  sliced,  and  a bunch  of 
parsley  in  sprigs.  When  the  fish  have 
become  well  saturated,  drain  and  put 
them,  on  the  gridiron.  Let  the  fire  be 
bright  and  even.  In  ten  minutes  the 
mullet  will  be  done.  Brown  alike  on 
both  sides.  Serve  hot  on  a dish,  with 
maitre  d'hotel  butter  under  them ; 
about  7 or  8 ozs.  will  be  enough.  Time, 
half  an  hour  to  steep  in  oil. 

Pompano  au  Gratin,  Fillets  of. — 

Use  redfish  or  trout  as  well  as  pom- 
pano.  Split  the  fish  in  two,  length- 
wise, and  remove  the  bone  and  skin. 
Then  cut  the  fish  into  strips,  season 
these  with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter, 
roll  them  up,  and  if  necessary  tie  them, 
to  keep  them  in  shape.  Put  them  in 
a pan  with  a gill  of  white  wine  or  a 
gill  of  hot  water;  but  the  wine  is  bet- 
ter. Add  a blade  of  mace ; strew  over 
them  a layer  of  bread-crumbs.  Add 
to  this  a liberal  quantity  of  the  sweet- 
est butter,  and  put  in  a hot  oven  for 
twenty  minutes. 

Redfish  Jelly  is  very  rich,  deli- 
cious, and  pretty.  Put  on  the  fire  in 
a pan  % lb.  of  good  butter,  five  car- 
rots, six  onions,  and  three  parsley 
roots,  all  cut  into  slices,  with  two  pike, 
or  any  white  fish  of  equivalent  weight, 
cut  in  pieces ; pepper  and  salt,  three 
cloves,  two  bay-leaves,  and  a pinch  of 
thyme.  Pour  some  stock  on  this  and 
let  boil  down  and  brown  a bit;  then 
pour  in  some  more  stock  and  put  on  a 
cover.  When  the  contents  no  longer 


121 


Red  Snapper,  Stuffed 


FISH 


Salmon  Pie 


stick  to  the  bottom,  fill  up  with  some 
water  and  two  handfuls  of  mush- 
rooms. After  boiling  half  an  hour, 
strain.  If  wanted  for  garnishing, 
color  with  barberry-juice.  Set  away 
to  cool. 

Red  Snapper,  Stuffed. — Make  a 
dressing  of  one  teacupful  of  stale 
bread-crumbs,  half  a teaspoonful  of  on- 
ion-juice,  one  dozen  oysters,  chopped 
fine,  one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  a 
teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley,  with 
salt  and  pepper  to  season.  Scale, 
cut  the  fins  from  the  fish,  remove  the 
entrails  through  a hole  made  in  the 
side.  Wash  quickly  inside  and  out- 
side in  cold  water.  Rub  one  table- 
spoonful of  salt  over  the  fish,  fill 
through  the  vent  with  the  stuffing, 
and  fasten  with  skewers.  Lay  on  a 
flat  piece  of  tin,  well  buttered,  in  the 
bottom  of  a large  dripping-pan ; dredge 
with  flour  and  pepper.  Pour  over  a 
teacupful  of  boiling  water  and  stock 
each,  and  set  in  a hot  oven.  Baste 
with  melted  butter  and  the  drippings 
from  the  pan  every  ten  minutes. 
When  done,  take  up  carefully  on  a 
heated  dish,  and  serve  with  brown 
sauce. 

Rockfish  Stewed  with  Claret. — Cut 

fish  in  two,  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
a little  mace  and  cloves,  and  lay  it  in 
a pan.  Take  four  or  five  onions  and 
shred  fine,  some  sprigs  of  parsley,  and 
thyme.  Cover  fish  with  claret  and 
water,  one  quart  of  claret  to  one  pint 
of  water,  lb.  of  butter,  and  a little 
flour.  When  half  done,  turn  it.  Let 
it  cook  on  a slow  fire. 

Salmon,  Buried.  — As  soon  as  the 
salmon  is  caught,  open  it  and  cut 
out  the  spinal  column.  Wash  it  in 
clean  water  and  dry  on  a clean  towel. 
Rub  the  fish  on  the  meat  side  with 
a table-spoonful  of  sugar,  and  on  both 
sides  with  some  fine  salt.  Place  it 
with  some  dill  in  a large,  clean  stone 
jar,  and  turn  it  daily  for  two  or  three 
days,  when  it  is  ready  to  eat,  either  as 
it  is  or  broiled.  Dill  always  improves 
the  taste  of  salmon. 


Salmon  Buried  in  Paper  Frocks. 

— Cut  sheets  of  white  paper  double 
the  size  of  the  slices  of  buried  salmon. 
Spread  them,  but  not  too  near  the 
edges,  with  butter  and  bread-crumbs 
mixed  with  white  pepper.  Put  a 
slice  of  salmon  in  each  paper  and  fold 
the  edges  well.  Broil  over  a slow 
fire ; serve  hot. 

Salmon  Croquettes. — Chop  i J/>  lbs. 

of  fresh  or  canned  salmon  fine,  season 
it  with  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  a table- 
spoonful of  chopped  parsley,  the 
juice  of  half  a lemon,  and  a dash  of 
cayenne.  Mix  well.  Put  a pint  of 
milk  on  to  boil.  Rub  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  butter  and  three  of  flour 
together  until  smooth,  and  stir  in  the 
boiling  milk.  Let  cook  two  or  three 
minutes,  add  the  salmon,  stir  until 
heated,  take  up,  turn  out  on  a dish 
to  cool.  When  cold  and  firm,  form 
into  croquettes,  roll  in  grated  bread- 
crumbs, dip  in  beaten  eggs,  then 
again  in  the  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in 
boiling  fat.  Serve  very  hot ; garnish 
with  parsley  and  thin  siices  of  lemon. 

Salmon  Cutlets  en  Papillotes.  — 

Cut  slices  of  salmon  into  cutlets ; 
make  little  paper  cases  to  fit  them. 
Mix  three  table  - spoonfuls  of  salad 
oil  with  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg, 
one  table-spoonful  of  chopped  pais- 
ley, and  a teaspoonful  of  onion-juice, 
with  a pinch  of  salt  and  a dash  of 
cayenne.  Spread  this  mixture  over 
the  fish,  fold  each  piece  in  the  buttered 
paper,  fasten  securely,  lay  in  a pan, 
and  set  in  a hot  oven  for  half  an  hour. 
Arrange  the  cases  on  a dish,  and 
serve  hot. 

Salmon  Patties. — Cut  cold,  cooked 
salmon  into  dice.  Heat  about  a pint 
of  the  dice  in  half  a pint  of  cream,  or 
Hollandaise  sauce.  Season  to  taste 
with  cayenne  pepper  and  salt.  Fill 
the  shells,  and  serve.  Cold,  cooked 
fish  of  any  kind  may  be  made  into 
patties  in  this  way. 

Salmon  Pie.  — Make  a very  good 
crust;  then  take  a piece  of  fresh 


122 


Salmon  Salad 


FISH 


Salmon  Salad 


salmon,  clean  it  perfectly,  put  some 
crust  round  the  dish,  but  none  at  the 
bottom ; only  butter  the  bottom  of  the 
dish,  and  then  lay  in  the  salmon. 
After  seasoning  it  very  well  with 
pepper  and  salt,  grate  a little  nutmeg 
over  it,  and  add  two  blades  of  mace, 
bruised.  Take  the  flesh  of  a boiled 
lobster,  melt  V2  lb.  of  fresh  butter,  and 
mix  all  the  lobster  perfectly  well  with 
it;  then  put  this  into  the  dish  over  the 
salmon,  put  on  the  lid,  bake  it,  and 
let  it  stand  an  hour  in  a moderate  oven. 

Salmon  Salad  (with  jelly). — Take 
a piece  of  cold,  boiled  salmon,  weigh- 
ing about  2 lbs. ; trim  away  the  bones 
and  skin,  and  divide  the  flesh  into 
squares.  Place  these  squares  in  a 
dish,  season,  and  baste  with  oil  and 
vinegar.  Have  ready  a plain  border 
mould,  embedded  in  ice ; ornament 
the  sides  and  bottom  with  gherkins, 
whites  of  eggs,  fillets  of  anchovy,  and 
capers,  always  dipping  the  details  in 
half-set  aspic  jelly.  Fill  the  mould 
by  degrees  with  cold  jelly.  Twenty 
minutes  before  serving,  turn  the 
mould  out  on  to  a cold  dish,  fill  half 
the  centre  with  chopped  aspic  jelly, 
and  on  it  place  the  squares  of  salmon 
in  layers,  alternated  with  egg  mayon- 
naise sauce.  Serve  with  mayonnaise 
sauce  in  a sauce-boat. 

Salmon  Salad. — This  is  an  entre- 
met  which  is  economical  when  there 
is  any  salmon  left.  Let  the  salmon 
cool,  and  cut  it  nicely  into  hearts 
or  square  lozenges.  Decorate  these 
hearts  with  fillets  of  anchovies,  pic- 
kled cucumbers,  fine  capers,  and 
chopped  eggs,  to  which  add  a few 
hearts  of  lettuce.  Then  make  the 
sauce  as  follows  : If  you  have  some 
jelly,  make  a kind  of  mayonnaise. 
Put  three  spoonfuls  of  oil,  one  spoon- 
ful of  vinegar,  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  jelly,  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  chopped  herbs.  Beat  all  these 
over  ice  till  they  are  a white  color, 
and  decorate  your  salad  with  this 
mayonnaise  and  a few  lumps  of  jelly 
cut  in  different  shapes. 

Another  way  : — Take  2 lbs.  of  cold. 


boiled  salmon,  remove  the  skin  and 
bone,  break  the  fish  in  pieces,  and  put 
into  a bowl  with  a little  salt,  cayenne, 
vinegar,  the  juice  of  a lemon,  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  oil.  Let  stand  on 
ice  one  hour.  Put  crisp  lettuce  leaves 
in  a salad-bowl,  add  the  salmon,  pour 
oyer  a mayonnaise  dressing,  garnish 
with  olives,  and  serve  very  cold. 
Canned  salmon  may  be  used  in  mak- 
ing this  salad. 

Another  way  : — Cut  in  four  slices  2 
lbs.  of  fresh  salmon — the  cut  near  the 
tail  part  will  be  best  for  the  salad — re- 
move the  skin,  make  four  fillets  out  of 
each  slice.  Remove  the  bone,  season 
each  slice  with  one  salt-spoonful  of 
salt  and  a half  one  of  pepper.  Butter 
a baking-pan,  put  in  the  fillets  side  by 
side,  and  pour  over  them  two  table- 
sfwonfuls  'of  clarified  butter.  Cover 
with  a piece  of  well-buttered  white 
paper,  and  cook  in  a hot  oven  twelve 
minutes.  Remove  the  fillets  from  the 
pan,  taking  care  not  to  break  them, 
and  put  aside  to  cool. 

Prepare  this  dressing : Put  in  a 
bowl  the  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled 
eggs  previously  crushed  and  passed 
through  a strainer,  and  one  raw  one. 
Pour  over  slowly,  and  stirring  with  a 
- silver  spoon,  two  gills  of  olive  oil,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  salt-spoonful 
of  white  pepper,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  add  all  the 
following  fine  herbs,  chopped  very  fine 
and  passed  through  a strainer  : one 
table-spoonful  of  parsley,  one  tea- 
spoonful of  water-cress,  three  medium- 
sized gherkins,  one  teaspoonful  of 
capers,  four  anchovies,  two  shallots, 
or  one  small,  green  onion.  Mix  all 
thoroughly.  Put  the  fillets  of  salmon 
in  this  seasoning,  and  stir  gently, 
without  breaking  them. 

Arrange  the  salad  in  a silver  bowl 
or  on  a fancy  platter.  Put  in  the  cen- 
tre a bed  of  very  crisp  and  cold  lettuce 
leaves  to  hold  the  salad.  Save  the 
hearts,  which  are  cut  in  four  pieces 
and  used  between  the  fillets,  together 
with  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  quartered. 
Add  two  dozen  large  olives  from  which 
the  stones  have  been  removed,  arrange 
them  with  the  salad,  finishing  the  top 


Salmon,  Scalloped 


Salt  Fish 


• "7 

FISH 


with  two  pieces  of  the  heart  of  a lettuce 
with  one  hard-boiled  egg  between, 
whose  yolk  has  been  removed  and  the 
cavity  filled  with  olives. 

Keep  the  salad  in  the  ice  - box  for 
two  hours.  When  ready  to  serve,  stir 
the  dressing,  and  with  a spoon  pour 
it  all  over.  Fresh  codfish  is  also 
very  good  prepared  in  this  manner, 
but  it  is  best  cooked  only  eight  min- 
utes. 

Salmon,  Scalloped.  — Put  half  a 
pint  of  milk  on  to  boil.  Rub  I oz. 
of  butter  and  a table-spoonful  of 
flour  together,  and  stir  in  the  boiling 
milk.  Cut  2 lbs.  of  fresh  or  canned 
salmon  into  dice.  Put  a layer  of  the 
sauce  in  the  bottom  of  a baking-dish, 
then  a layer  of  the  salmon ; sprinkle 
with  salt,  cayenne,  chopped  parsley, 
and  grated  bread-crumbs ; then  an- 
other layer  of  the  sauce,  salmon, 
and  seasoning,  until  the  dish  is  full ; 
have  the  last  layer  sauce ; sprinkle 
with  the  bread-crumbs  and  bits  of 
butter.  Set  in  a very  hot  oven  for 
ten  minutes  to  brown.  Serve  in  the 
dish  in  which  it  is  cooked. 

Salmon  Steaks,  Boiled. — Cut  steak 
about  two  inches  thick,  wrap  in  a 
cloth,  put  in  a kettle  of  boiling  water, 
add  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  let 
simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  Take 
up,  remove  the  cloth,  lay  on  a heat- 
ed dish,  sprinkle  with  lobster  coral, 
and  serve  with  lobster  sauce. 

Salmon  Steak  a la  Flamande.  — 

Take  salmon  steak  an  inch  and  a 
half  thick ; wash,  and  wipe  it  dry. 
Rub  the  bottom  of  a dripping-pan 
with  a table-spoonful  of  butter,  and 
sprinkle  over  a minced  onion,  with 
pepper  and  salt;  lay  the  fish  on  top, 
brush  over  with  the  yolk  of  a beaten 
egg,  and  cover  with  a layer  of  chopped 
onion  and  parsley ; dredge  with  salt 
and  cayenne ; pour  over  the  juice 
of  a small  lemon.  Spread  with  bits 
of  butter,  and  set  in  a hot  oven  for 
half  an  hour.  Take  up  on  a heated 
dish,  garnish  with  slices  of  lemon, 
and  serve  with  bechamel  sauce. 


Salmon  on  T oast.  — Dip  slices  of 
stale  bread  in  smoking  - hot  lard. 
They  will  brown  at  once.  Take  them 
out  and  drain  them  on  brown  paper. 
Heat  a pint  of  cold  salmon,  pick  into 
flakes  into  a teacupful  of  lobster 
sauce,  adding  a dash  of  cayenne 
pepper  and  salt.  When  it  is  hot, 
stir  in  one  egg,  beaten  light,  with 
three  table  - spoonfuls  of  cold,  sweet 
cream.  Pour  the  mixture  on  the 
slices  of  fried  bread.  If  you  have  no 
lobster  sauce,  substitute  drawn  butter. 

Salmon  Trout,  Larded.  — Have 
cleaned  and  drawn  a salmon  trout 
from  4^  to  5 lbs.  Cut  some  small 
strips  of  larding-pork,  lb.,  about 
half  a finger  long ; leave  them  in 
ice-water  for  half  an  hour  before 
using  them.  With  a small,  pointed 
knife  make  three  rows  of  deep  inci- 
sions ; put  a piece  of  larding-pork  in 
each  hole.  Butter  thickly  a long 
roasting-pan.  Rub  the  fish  all  over 
with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  half 
a one  of  pepper,  place  it  in  the  pan, 
pour  over  one  glassful  of  Madeira 
wine.  Butter  well  on  both  sides  a 
piece  of  white  paper  large  enough 
to  cover  the  fish  ; place  over  and  bake 
in  moderate  oven  forty-five  minutes. 
After  thirty  minutes  remove  the 
paper  and  baste  three  times.  Serve 
the  fish  on  a long  platter,  reserving 
the  gravy  for  further  use ; keep  the 
fish  warm  in  the  oven,  with  the  door 
open,  while  finishing  the  shrimp 
sauce. 

Salt  Fish. — Salt  fish  requires  to  be 
soaked  before  being  dressed,  the  time 
being  regulated  by  the  hardness  and 
dryness  of  the  fish.  The  water  should 
be  changed  two  or  three  times  during 
the  process,  and  the  fish  should  be 
brushed  and  washed  when  it  is  taken 
out.  For  very  dry  fish  thirty-six 
hours’  soaking  will  be  needed,  the 
water  being  changed  at  least  four 
times.  In  ordinary  cases  twenty-four 
hours’  soaking  will  be  sufficient.  It 
should  be  remembered  that  the  fish 
should  be  put  in  to  soak  flesh  down- 
ward. 


124 


Salt  Fish  a la  Maitre  d’Hotel  FISH 


Shad-roe  Croquettes 


Salt  Fish  a la  Maitre  d’Hotel.  — 

Boil  the  fish  in  the  usual  way,  free 
the  flesh  from  skin  and  bone,  and 
tear  it  into  flakes.  Mix  a dessert- 
spoonful of  flour  smoothly  with  2 or 
3 ozs.  of  good  butter.  Stir  them  in  a 
clean  saucepan  till  the  butter  is  dis- 
solved, then  add  a pinch  of  salt  and 
the  third  of  a pint  of  boiling  water. 
Stir  the  whole  over  the  fire  for  a few 
minutes,  and  add  a table-spoonful  of 
chilli  vinegar  and  a table-spoonful  of 
chopped  parsley.  Let  all  boil  up  once. 
Put  the  flaked  fish  into  a saucepan, 
pour  the  sauce  over  it,  and  stir  it  over 
a gentle  fire  till  it  is  quite  hot.  Turn 
it  upon  a hot  dish,  and  serve.  Time, 
a few  minutes  to  heat  the  fish  in  the 
sauce. 

Scallops.  — Wash  them  in  cold 
water,  dry  them,  pepper  and  salt 
them,  place  in  a dry  cloth,  spread  thin- 
ly so  as  to  bring  as  many  as  possible 
in  contact  with  the  cloth,  which  will 
absorb  the  moisture,  and  then  place 
them  in  the  ice-box  overnight.  Next 
morning  change  the  cloth  for  a drier 
one.  When  about  to  cook,  take 
some  flour,  spread  it  thinly  on  a plate, 
and  put  it  in  the  oven  so  as  to  dry 
all  surplus  moisture  out,  but  not  to 
brown  it.  Then  dredge  it  lightly  over 
the  scallops.  Have  the  frying-pan 
half  an  inch  deep  in  boiling  fat,  drop 
the  scallops  in,  and  fry  until  a rich 
brown.  Thin  slivers  of  bacon  -well 
fried  may  be  served  or  not,  as  desired. 

Spanish  way : — Slice  an  onion, 
place  it  in  a hot  pan  with  butter, 
brown,  and  stir  in  the  scallops  pre- 
viously dried,  salted,  peppered,  and 
covered  with  cracker  - dust.  Serve 
with  finger  pieces  of  thin,  hot  toast. 

Shad,  Baked. — Scrape  a medium- 
sized shad  free  of  scales,  make  an 
opening  down  the  side,  and  take 
out  the  entrails ; wash,  and  wipe 
dry.  Make  a dressing  of  one  pint 
of  stale  bread-crumbs,  one  table- 
spoonful of  melted  butter,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a pinch  of  black 
pepper,  one  table-spoonful  of  chopped 
sweet  herbs,  five  drops  of  onion-juice, 

12 


a squeeze  of  lemon-juice,  and  the 
beaten  yolk  of  one  egg ; stuff  the  body 
of  the  fish  with  the  mixture,  and 
sew  up  the  opening.  Score  the  flesh 
of  the  fish,  and  put  a strip  of  salt 
pork  in  each  gash.  Grease  a large 
tin  sheet,  placed  in  the  bottom  of  a 
large  dripping-pan,  lay  the  fish 
on  it,  dredge  with  flour,  salt  and 
pepper,  pour  a teacupful  of  water  in 
the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and  set  in  a 
hot  oven.  Let  bake  fifteen  minutes  to 
every  pound  of  fish ; baste  every  ten 
minutes.  When  the  fish  is  done  lift 
the  tin  from  the  pan,  and  slip  it  care- 
fully out  from  under  the  fish  on  to  a 
heated  dish ; garnish  with  slices  of 
lemon  and  fried  potato  balls.  Serve 
with  sauce  hollandaise. 

Shad,  Broiled.  — Split  the  fish, 
wash  in  cold  water,  and  wipe  dry. 
Dredge  it  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
flour,  and  broil  over  a clear  fire,  the 
inside  first,  and  turn  frequently. 
Serve  with  bechamel,  maitre  d’hotel, 
or  any  other  fish  sauce,  according 
to  taste.  See  Sauces. 

Shad,  Planked. — Scale  and  empty 
the  fish,  cut  off  the  head,  and  split  it 
open  from  head  to  tail.  Spread  it  on 
a board,  and  fasten  it  down  with 
pegs  or  skewers  to  keep  it  in  position. 
Put  it  before  a clear  fire,  and  rest  the 
lower  end  of  the  plank  in  a tub  con- 
taining salt  and  water.  Toast  the 
fish,  and  keep  basting  it  well  with  the 
liquor  ; when  it  is  almost  cooked,  baste 
it  with  butter.  Serve  on  a hot  dish, 
garnish  with  pickled  walnuts,  and 
send  melted  butter  flavored  with 
walnut  catsup  to  table  in  a tureen. 

Shad-roe  Croquettes.  — Wash  two 
shad-roes ; put  them  in  a saucepan 
of  boiling  salt  water,  and  set  on  the 
fire  to  simmer  slowly  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Take  from  the  water,  re- 
move the  skin,  and  mash  them.  Put 
a teacupful  of  cream  in  a small  sauce- 
pan with  a table-spoonful  of  thick 
stock,  and  set  on  to  boil.  Rub  I 
oz.  of  butter  and  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour  together,  and  add  to  the  boil- 

5 


Shad-roes  en  Brochettes 


FISH 


Smelts,  Broiled 


ing  milk;  beat  in  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs ; take  from  the  fire ; add  the 
shad-roe,  with  a table-spoonful  of 
minced  parsley,  the  juice  of  a small 
lemon,  half  a teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  a dash  of  cayenne.  Mix  well  ; 
turn  out  on  a dish.  When  cold  and 
firm,  form  into  croquettes;  dip  first 
in  beaten  egg,  then  in  cracker  meal, 
and  fry  in  boiling  fat.  Serve  with 
sauce  hollandaise. 

Shad-roes  en  Brochettes.  — Par- 
boil shad -roes  and  throw  them  into 
cold  water.  Take  them  out,  cut  them 
into  inch  lengths,  and  roll  them 
in  flour.  Impale  them  on  slender 
skewers  with  alternate  slices  of  bacon, 
cut  verv  thin,  and  broil  over  a clear 
fire  until  the  bacon  is  clear  and  crisp. 
Serve  with  melted  butter  or  with  a 
maitre  d’hotel  sauce. 

Sardines  (with  curry).  — Make  a 
paste  in  the  proportion  of  one  table- 
spoonful of  butter  to  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  French  mustard  and  one  of 
curry- powder,  moistened  with  lemon- 
juice.  Wash  the  oil  and  skin  from 
large  sardines  and  spread  them 
thickly  with  this  mixture.  Broil  the 
sardines  over  a clear  fire  long  enough 
to  heat  them  through,  and  serve  on 
hot,  buttered  toast.  Baked  tomatoes 
are  good  to  serve  with  sardines.  Sar- 
dines may  be  served  on  a bed  of  boiled 
rice.  Form  the  rice  on  a hot  platter 
and  arrange  the  sardines  on  the  rice. 
Pour  a curry  sauce  over  the  whole. 

Sardines,  Fried. — Always  use  the 
large-sized  fish ; take  as  many  as 
you  wish  to  use  from  the  box,  wipe 
the  oil  from  them,  and  pass  them 
through  an  egg,  whipped,  and  then 
strew  thickly  with  biscuit- crumbs, 
apd  fry  as  you  would  any  other 
fish  ; serve  on  hot,  buttered  toast.  A 
little  red  pepper  added  when  eating 
them  is  a great  improvement.  This 
is  an  agreeable  dish  for  luncheon  or 
supper,  and  quickly  prepared. 

Sardine  Salad.  — Wash  the  oil 
from  a dozen  sardines;  remove  the 


skin  and  bone.  Put  a head  of  crisp 
lettuce  leaves  in  a salad-bowl,  chop 
up  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  add  the 
sardines  to  the  lettuce,  sprinkle  with 
the  egg,  and  pour  over  a plain  salad 
dressing. 

Sheep’s-head,  Baked.  — Same  as 
Bluefish. 

Sheep’s-head,  Boiled. — Same  as 
Bass. 

Sheep’s-head,  Trout,  Redfish,  etc., 
au  Gratin  (Creole  recipe). — Spread 
upon  a dish  which  can  be  put  upon 
the  fire  some  butter,  parsley,  shallots, 
mushrooms,  all  cut  up  together ; salt, 
black  pepper,  small  green  peppers,  a 
little  oil.  Place  the  fish  upon  these ; 
cover  them  with  the  same  seasoning 
and  butter.  Add  a glassful  of  wine 
(white)  and  a glassful  of  brandy ; then 
add  a good  stew  of  oysters  and  whole 
fresh  mushrooms.  Cook  on  top  of  the 
fire  until  nearly  done ; then  add 
grated  bread-and-butter  over  it,  and 
put  it  in  the  stove  oven  to  finish  the 
cooking  and  give  a nice  brown. 
This  is  really  a very  accurate  recipe 
for  a Creole  cook  to  give,  and  with  a 
little  “ gumption,”  as  the  Yankees 
say,  the  dish  will  be  found  easy  to 
prepare  and  very  delicious  and  new 
when  done. 

Shrimp  Salad. — Tear  the  leaves  of 
two  heads  of  lettuce  apart,  put  in  a 
salad-bowl,  open  a can  of  shrimps, 
put  in  the  lettuce  leaves,  pour  over 
half  a cupful  of  mayonnaise  dressing, 
and  garnish  with  hard-boiled  eggs  cut 
in  rings. 

Smelts,  Broiled  (with  shallot  sauce). 

— Wash  in  cold  water  and  dry  in  a 
clean  towel  six  or  seven  large  smelts 

— I lbs.  altogether — beat  two  raw 
eggs  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one 
salt  - spoonful  of  pepper.  Dip  each 
fish  thoroughly  in  it,  and  roll  them  in 
one  pint  of  fine,  freshly  made  bread- 
crumbs. Pass  a skewer  through  their 
heads  and  make  two  brochettes ; put 
over  the  broiler  on  a moderate  fixe ; 


126 


Smelts,  Fried 


FISH  Sole  a la  Crfeme,  Fillets  of 


broil  the  first  side  six  minutes,  turn 
them  carefully,  and  pour  over  each 
with  a small  spoon  a little  melted  but- 
ter-altogether the  quantity  of  one 
table  - spoonful — cook  five  minutes 
more,  serve  on  a hot  platter,  with  a 
little  fresh  parsley  and  a few  slices  of 
lemon.  Serve  at  the  same  time  this 
prepared  cold  shallot  sauce : Chop 
very  fine  two  teaspoonfuls  of  shallots, 
put  them  in  a small  saucepan  with 
half  a table-spoonful  of  butter ; cook 
three  minutes  while  stirring;  do  not 
brown.  Remove  from  the  fire ; add 
one  teaspoonful  of  wine  vinegar,  one 
teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Pour 
in  a bowl  and  let  it  cool  thoroughly. 
When  ready  to  serve,  have  one  and  a 
half  table-spoonfuls  of  fresh  butter, 
mix  it  well  with  the  sauce,  make  small 
balls  out  of  it,  and  serve  with  the  fish 
— one  ball  for  each. 

Smelts,  Fried. — Put  J4  lb.  of  fat 
salt  pork,  cut  in  thin  slices,  into  a 
deep  frying-pan,  and  fry  till  crisp. 
Wash  and  clean  the  smelts,  but  do 
not  cut  them ; dry  them  on  a clean 
towel,  and  dip  them  into  fine  bread- 
crumbs or  Indian  meal.  Put  them  in 
the  fat  from  the  slices  of  pork  when  it 
is  boiling  hot,  and  fry  till  brown,  turn- 
ing when  half  done.  It  is  a great  im- 
provement to  wash  these  fish  in  water 
with  some  coarse  salt  dissolved  in  it 
instead  of  fresh  water.  Five  minutes 
should  fry  a smelt  thoroughly. 

Smelts  au  Gratin,  Stuffed. — Wash 
and  clean,  without  splitting  the  skin, 
I Yz  lbs.  of  nice,  fresh,  large  smelts; 
dry  them,  and  prepare  this  stuffing: 
Have  Y*  lb.  of  raw  fish — sea-bass  or 
salmon,  if  possible — remove  skin  and 
bones ; chop  and  pound  well  to  make 
it  very  fine.  Add  to  it  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  white  bread-crumbs,  previously 
soaked  in  hot  milk  and  well  squeezed. 
Add  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs  and 
the  white  of  one,  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one  salt-spoonful  of  pepper. 
Work  it  well ; it  must  become  very 
smooth.  Finish  with  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  raw  cream,  and,  lastly,  with 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream. 


Let  the  mixture  rest  in  a cool  place 
for  half  an  hour.  Fill  up  each  smelt, 
using  a small  coffee -spoon.  Have 
these  fine  herbs  prepared  : Chop  fine 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  white  onions; 
put  them  in  a saucepan  with  half  a 
table-spoonful  of  butter.  Cook  five 
minutes ; do  not  brown.  Add  Y\  lb. 
of  fresh  mushrooms,  chopped;  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley, 
one  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a one  of 
pepper. 

Cook  while  stirring  for  five  minutes. 
Butter  well  a silver  or  a copper  platter, 
and  put  in  one  layer  of  the  fine  herbs  ; 
add  half  a glassful  of  white  wine,  and 
place  the  fish  on  it.  Sprinkle  one  tea- 
spoonful of  salt  and  one  salt-spoonful 
of  pepper  over  the  fish,  spread  over 
the  balance  of  the  fine  herbs,  and 
finish  with  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
bread-crumbs,  freshly  made.  Take 
half  a table-spoonful  of  butter,  divide 
in  small  pieces,  and  place  them  all 
over  the  top.  Bake  in  a moderately 
hot  oven  for  twelve  minutes.  Serve 
very  hot  on  the  same  platter.  Small 
flounders  can  be  prepared  in  the  same 
manner. 

Sole  a la  Creme,  Fillets  of. — Have 
three  flounders  weighing  not  over 
I lbs.  each ; lift  up  the  skin  and 
bone  ; make  four  fillets  out  of  each 
flounder;  wTash  well  in  cold  water, 
and  dry  with  a clean  towel.  Put 
two  quarts  of  water  in  a saucepan,  one 
sliced  onion,  two  cloves,  three  sprigs 
of  parsley,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
two  whole  peppers,  half  a gill  of 
vinegar.  Boil  ten  minutes,  then  put 
the  fillets  in  and  let  them  simmer 
six  minutes  only;  remove  the  fillets 
carefully ; put  them  on  a platter  on  a 
clean  towel  to  drain,  and  keep  them 
warm  in  the  oven.  Meanwhile  have 
this  cream  sauce  prepared  : Put  in  a 

small  saucepan  half  a table-spoonful 
of  fresh  butter  and  half  a one  of  sifted 
flour ; cook  four  minutes,  stirring 
constantly.  Do  not  let  it  brown. 
Pour  over  slowly,  while  stirring, 
one-quarter  of  a pint  of  good  broth, 
and  add  half  a pint  of  rich  cream. 
Season  with  half  a teaspoonful  of 


127 


Sole,  Fillet  of 


FISH  Spanish  Mackerel,  Barbecued 


salt  and  one  salt-spoonful  of  white 
pepper ; let  simmer  eight  minutes, 
then  remove  from  the  fire  and  add 
the  following : Mix  in  a cup  the 

yolks  of  two  raw  eggs,  half  a table- 
spoonful of  fresh  butter,  half  a tea- 
spoonful of  lemon -juice.  Have  care 
that  the  sauce  does  not  boil  any  more. 
Mix  well.  Dress  the  fillets  on  a large, 
warm  platter,  lengthwise  and  lapping 
over  one  another.  Pour  the  hot  sauce 
over ; add  a small  bunch  of  fresh 
parsley  at  each  end  and  also  a few 
lemon  slices  around.  This  excellent 
sauce  may  be  used  for  any  cold  fish 
left  over  or  for  any  white  meat.  When 
you  use  the  meat,  it  must  be  placed  in 
the  sauce  only  long  enough  to  warm ; 
do  not  let  it  boil.  Heat  for  two  min- 
utes only,  and  before  putting  in  the 
eggs,  butter,  and  lemon. 

Sole,  Fillet  of. — In  this  country, 
where  the  real  English  sole  can  be 
obtained  with  difficulty,  if  at  all, 
an  excellent  substitute  is  found  in 
flounders.  To  be  entirely  satisfac- 
tory these  should  be  quite  large. 
In  most  cases  the  fishmonger  will  fil- 
let them  for  the  customer,  but  it  is  a 
simple  matter  for  her  to  do  it  for  her- 
self. The  head  should  be  removed 
and  an  incision  made  down  the 
length  of  the  back  with  a sharp  knife. 
The  cut  should  reach  to  the  bone  all 
the  way.  With  the  knife  then  loosen 
the  fish  from  the  bone  on  each  side 
of  the  cut,  working  towards  the  fins. 
When  this  is  done,  turn  the  fish  over 
and  repeat  the  process  on  the  other 
side,  and  the  whole  bone  can  be  re- 
moved from  the  fish.  Cut  away  the 
fins  and  there  will  remain  four  long 
fillets.  Remove  the  skin  by  laying 
each  piece  of  fish  flesh  upward  on  a 
board,  holding  the  fillet  firmly  with 
the  thumb  and  finger  while  you  work 
the  skin  loose  with  a downward 
pressure  of  the  knife.  The  process 
is  more  involved  in  the  telling  than  in 
the  doing. 

Sole  au  Gratin.  — Make  a force- 
meat of  fine  bread-crumbs,  a very 
little  minced  onion,  a teaspoonful 

i 


of  shredded  parsley,  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste,  and  moisten  with  butter. 
A few  mushrooms,  also  minced  as 
finely  as  possible,  are  an  excellent 
addition.  Butter  generously  the  bot- 
tom of  an  oval  pudding-dish  that 
will  stand  the  fire  ; spread  it  with  half 
your  force-meat  and  lay  the  fish  on 
this ; cover  it  with  the  rest  of  the  force- 
meat ; pour  over  it  a wineglassful  of 
Saute  rne,  or  some  other  French 
white  wine,  and  an  equal  quantity 
of  veal  or  chicken  stock.  Over  all 
put  a thin  layer  of  fine  bread-crumbs 
and  dot  with  bits  of  butter.  Bake 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  in  a good 
oven,  watching  that  it  does  not  burn. 
If  it  seems  to  dry  out  too  much,  add  a 
little  more  stock.  Serve  in  the  dish 
in  which  it  was  cooked.  Properly 
prepared,  it  is  delicious, 

Sole  in  Turbans,  Fillets  of. — Put 

the  bones  and  fins  cut  from  fillets  of 
sole  in  a pint  of  water  and  let  them 
cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour  or  so. 
Strain  them  out,  return  the  liquid  to 
the  stove  with  a salt-spoonful  of 
salt,  and  when  it  is  boiling  put  in  the 
fillets,  each  rolled  into  a turban  and 
pinned  with  a fine  toothpick.  Let 
them  boil  until  white  and  firm — 
about  eight  or  ten  minutes — take 
them  out,  and  keep  them  hot  while 
making  a bechamel  sauce  by  cooking 
together  a table-spoonful  of  butter  and 
one  of  flour,  and  pouring  on  them  a 
gill  of  the  fish  liquor  and  a gill  of 
milk.  Season  with  white  pepper. 
Stand  the  fillets  on  end  in  a dish, 
pour  the  white  sauce  over  them, 
and  sprinkle  with  very  finely  minced 
parsley. 

Spanish  Mackerel,  Barbecued.  — 

A barbecue  of  shad,  Spanish  mack- 
erel, or  whitefish  is  made  by  splitting 
the  fish  down  the  back,  cutting  out 
the  backbone,  cleaning,  and  then 
washing  it.  After  this  is  done  the 
fish  is  laid,  skin  down,  in  a pan  con- 
taining two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
and  seasoned  palatably  with  salt  and 
pepper ; the  pan  is  then  set  before 
the  fire  or  in  a hot  oven,  and  the  fish 


Sprats,  Smoked 


FISH 


Sturgeon  a la  Russe 


frequently  basted  with  the  melted 
butter  until  the  flakes  begin  to  break 
apart ; the  fish  is  then  transferred  to  a 
hot  dish,  without  breaking,  and  kept 
hot.  A table-spoonful  of  dry  flour 
is  stirred  into  the  baking-pan,  which 
is  to  be  set  over  the  fire  ; when  the 
flour  is  brown  a pint  of  boiling  water 
is  gradually  added,  with  a palatable 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  After 
this  gravy  boils  it  is  to  be  poured 
over  the  fish,  and  the  dish  is  ready 
to  serve.  See  also  Mackerel. 

Sprats,  Smoked. — Simply  lay  them 
on  a slightly  greased  pie-dish  and  set 
them  in  the  oven  until  heated.  They 
are  very  nice  served  with  toast,  and 
are  excellent  appetizers. 

Striped  Bass  is  excellent  as  a 
substantial  dish  when  stuffed  and 
baked.  Put  a cupful  of  dry  bread- 
crumbs in  a frying  - pan  over  the 
fire  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  drip- 
pings, and  stir  them  until  they  begin 
to  brown ; then  add  to  them  enough 
boiling  water  to  moisten  them  ; season 
them  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
any  powdered  sweet  herb,  or  celery 
salt,  or  a teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped 
onion,  and  use  them  to  stuff  the  fish  ; 
sew  the  stuffing  in  the  fish,  place  it  in 
a baking -pan  with  a few  slices  of 
salt  pork  or  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
drippings  under  it,  season  it  with 
salt  and  pepper,  dredge  it  with  flour, 
and  put  it  in  a hot  oven.  As  the 
fish  browns,  dredge  it  repeatedly  with 
flour,  and  baste  it.  When  a fin  can 
easily  be  pulled  out,  or  the  flakes  of 
the  fish  begin  to  separate,  it  will  be 
done.  A fish  weighing  5 or  6 lbs.  will 
bake  in  about  an  hour  in  a moderate 
oven.  Serve  with  brown  sauce.  Blue- 
fish,  weakfish,  sea-bass,  etc.,  are  cook- 
ed in  the  same  way. 

Sturgeon  a la  Cardinal.  — Take 
about  2 lbs.  of  sturgeon.  Cleanse 
thoroughly.  Bind  it  into  shape  firm- 
ly with  tape  and  lay  in  a saucepan, 
and  with  it  an  onion  stuck  with  four 
cloves,  a little  piece  of  mace,  a sliced 
carrot,  a bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a 
9 


glassful  of  vinegar,  and  as  much 
water  as  will  cover  the  fish.  Let  all 
boil  gently  until  the  sturgeon  is  done. 
Lay  it  on  a dish,  pour  lobster  sauce 
over  it,  and  serve.  A few  prawns  and 
green  parsley  may  be  used  as  a gar- 
nish. The  time  required  to  boil  stur- 
geon will  vanr  according  to  the  size 
and  age  of  the  fish  from  which  the 
piece  was  taken — from  three-quarters 
of  an  hour  to  one  hour. 

Sturgeon  Cutlets. — Cut  the  stur- 
geon into  slices  a quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  Wash  these,  dry  them  in  a 
cloth,  flour  them,  and  dip  them  into 
egg  and  seasoned  bread-crumbs.  Fry 
in  hot  fat  until  they  are  nicely  brown- 
ed on  both  sides,  drain  them,  and  serve 
with  piquant  or  tomato  sauce.  Time 
to  fry,  ten  to  fifteen  minutes. 

Sturgeon,  Fresh,  Grilled. — Cut  the 

sturgeon  into  slices  an  inch  thick. 
Dry  these  and  dip  them  into  egg  and 
seasoned  bread-crumbs,  and  fasten 
them  in  papers  saturated  with  butter, 
or  simply  brush  them  over  with  salad 
oil  and  sprinkle  salt  and  pepper  upon 
them.  Broil  them  over  a clear  fire 
until  they  are  sufficiently  cooked  on 
both  sides.  Serve  with  melted  but- 
ter, oyster,  or  anchovy  sauce,  or  with 
piquant  sauce  to  which  a few  drops  of 
essence  of  anchovy  and  a small  piece 
of  butter  have  been  added.  Time  to 
grill,  about  fifteen  minutes,  the  time 
varying  with  the  size  and  age  of  the 
fish. 

Sturgeon,  Fried. — Cut  the  fish  into 
slices  and  fry  in  the  usual  manner ; 
then  pour  off  the  fat,  and  put  a little 
flour  and  boiling  water  into  the  pan. 
Pour  this  into  a stewpan,  and  add  to 
it  some  sweet  herbs  and  an  onion,  and 
season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Let  the 
fish  stew  till  quite  tender,  then  strain 
the  sauce,  and  serve  it  poured  round 
the  fish,  adding  first  a little  lemon- 
juice. 

Sturgeon  a la  Russe.  — Take  a 
piece  of  sturgeon  weighing  about  2 lbs. 
Cleanse  thoroughly  and  lay  it  in  salt 
129 


Sturgeon,  Sauce  for 


FISH 


Turbot,  Boiled 


and  water  for  ten  or  twelve  hours . An 
hour  before  it  is  wanted  rub  it  well 
with  vinegar,  and  let  it  lie  with  a little 
vinegar  poured  round  it.  Put  it  into 
a fish-kettle  with  as  much  boiling 
water  as  will  cover  it,  and  add  two 
onions,  a bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and 
I oz.  of  bay-salt.  Let  it  boil  gently 
till  done  enough,  take  it  up,  flour  it 
well,  put  it  in  a hot  oven,  and  baste  it 
with  butter  till  it  is  well  browned.  Put 
it  on  a dish  and  pour  over  it,  or  serve 
separately  in  a tureen,  a sauce  pre- 
pared as  follows  : Bone  and  skin  two 
anchovies  and  put  them  into  a sauce- 
pan with  a glassful  of  white  wine,  a 
button  onion,  an  inch  of  lemon-rind, 
and  a cupful  of  stock.  Boil  all  gently 
together  for  a minute  or  two.  Strain 
the  sauce,  thicken  it  with  flour  and 
butter,  stir  two  table  - spoonfuls  of 
thick  cream  into  it,  and  serve. 

Sturgeon,  Sauce  for. — If  broiled  or 
fried,  any  piquant  sauce  or  any  of 
the  sauces  which  usually  accompany 
salmon  may  be  served  with  sturgeon. 
When  stewed,  the  liquor  in  which  it 
was  simmered  may  be  strained,  thick- 
ened, and  either  poured  over  it  or 
served  in  a tureen. 

Sturgeon,  Stewed. — Take  2 lbs.  of 
sturgeon  cut  into  slices  an  inch  thick. 
Soak  these  in  strong  vinegar  for  five 
minutes,  drain  them,  dry  them  in  a 
cloth,  dip  them  in  flour,  and  fry  them 
in  hot  fat  till  they  are  lightly  browned 
on  both  sides.  Take  as  much  good, 
nicely  flavored  veal  stock  as  will 
barely  cover  the  fish,  throw  into  it  a 
large  glassful  of  Madeira,  cover  the 
saucepan  closely,  and  simmer  the  fish 
gentry  for  an  hour.  Put  the  slices  on 
a dish,  throw  a spoonful  of  capers  upon 
them,  pour  the  sauce  around  them,  and 
serve.  Time  to  fry  the  slices,  ten  min- 
utes ; time  to  simmer  them,  one  hour. 

Trout,  Broiled.  — Clean  a trout 
weighing  3 or  4 lbs.  Rub  a double 
broiler  with  a piece  of  suet,  lay  the 
fish  on  it  with  the  flesh  side  down, 
turn  over  a moderate  fire  until  brown 
on  both  sides,  being  careful  not  to 


burn.  When  done,  take  up  carefully 
so  as  not  to  break.  Sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper,  spread  with  butter, 
stand  in  the  oven  for  one  minute, 
take  out,  and  serve  with  maitre  d'hbtel 
sauce. 

Trout,  Fried. — Clean  the  trout, 
wash  them,  dry  them  perfectly  with 
napkins,  cut  the  sides  and  back 
slightly  with  a very  fine  knife,  strew  a 
little  salt  over  them,  and  then  dredge 
them  with  flour ; set  on  a pan  with 
some  clarified  butter,  and  when  it  is 
hot  lay  in  the  trout.  Fry  them  to  a 
delicate  brown,  and  serve  them  in  a 
napkin  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Trout  Salad. — Boil  a medium-sized 
lake  trout  in  slightly  salted  water, 
take  up,  drain,  remove  the  bone  and 
skin,  break  the  fish  into  flakes,  and 
put  in  spiced  vinegar  for  two  hours. 
Drain,  put  in  a salad-bowl  on  a bed 
of  lettuce  leaves,  pour  over  half  a cup- 
ful of  mayonnaise,  and  garnish  with 
hard-boiled  eggs. 

Trout  in  Shells. — Fry  fresh  trout 
in  oil,  cut  into  small  pieces,  removing 
all  the  bone  ; season  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  a squeeze  of  lemon- juice.  Put  in 
little,  silver-plated  shells,  filling  only 
half  full.  Pour  over  bechamel  sauce, 
sprinkle  with  grated  bread-crumbs, 
and  set  in  a hot  oven  for  twenty  min- 
utes. 

Turbot,  Boiled. — Empty  and  wash 
the  fish,  then  remove  the  scales  and 
gills  and  trim  the  fins ; soak  the  fish 
in  salt  water.  Wash  it  until  it  is  as 
clean  as  possible.  Dry  it,  and  rub 
it  with  a cut  lemon  or  a little  vinegar. 
Draw  a sharp  knife  just  through 
the  skin  in  the  thickest  part  of  the 
middle  of  the  back  on  the  dark  side 
of  the  fish.  This  is  to  keep  the  skin 
from  cracking  on  the  white  side.  Put 
as  much  cold  water  as  will  be  re- 
quired to  cover  the  fish  into  a turbot- 
kettle  or  a large,  deep  pan,  and  dis- 
solve in  this  a little  salt  in  the  pro- 
portion of  6 ozs.  of  salt  to  a gallon  of 
water.  Bring  the  water  to  the  boil 


130 


Turbot,  Broiled 


FISH 


Whitebait,  Dressed 


and  remove  the  scum  as  it  rises.  Lay 
the  turbot  on  the  fish  - drainer,  the 
white  side  up ; lower  it  into  the  boiling 
water,  put  the  kettle  at  the  back  and 
simmer  the  fish  very  gently  until  it  is 
done  enough.  As  soon  as  this  point 
is  reached,  take  it  up,  drain  the  water 
from  it,  and  slip  it,  the  white  side  up, 
upon  a hot  dish  covered  with  a napkin 
or  fish-paper.  Garnish  with  parsley, 
cut  lemon,  and  scraped  horseradish, 
and  if  it  should  happen,  unfortunate- 
ly, that  the  fish  is  at  all  cracked,  lay 
two  or  three  little  pieces  of  parsley 
upon  it,  so  as  to  cover  the  crack. 
Plain,  melted  butter,  shrimp  sauce, 
anchovy  sauce,  Dutch  sauce,  and 
lobster  sauce  may  all  be  served  with 
boiled  turbot.  When  the  flesh  ap- 
pears to  shrink  from  the  bone  it  is 
done,  and  it  should  be  carefully 
watched,  as,  if  it  boils  too  long,  it 
will  be  broken  and  spoiled.  Time, 
a moderate  - sized  turbot,  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes  to  simmer  gently 
from  the  time  the  water  boils ; large, 
twenty  to  thirty-five  minutes. 

Turbot,  Broiled.  — Clean  a small 
turbot,  and  dry  it  well.  Lay  it  on  a 
dish,  sprinkle  a little  pepper  and  salt 
on  it,  and  pour  over  it  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  oil  and  two  of  vinegar 
or  lemon -juice.  When  it  is  to  be 
dressed,  place  it  in  a double  gridiron 
and  broil  it  over  a slow,  clear  fire. 
Turn  it  every  five  or  six  minutes,  and 
on  each  occasion  brush  it  over  with 
the  marinade  in  the  dish.  When 
it  is  done  enough — that  is,  when  the 
flesh  will  leave  the  bone  easily — put 
it  upon  a hot  dish,  and  pour  over  it 
some  good  white  sauce,  or  oyster 
sauce,  or  mussel  sauce.  Garnish 
with  parsley  and  prawns.  Time  to 
broil,  about  half  an  hour. 

Turbot  a la  Bechamel. — This  is  a 
favorite  method  of  dressing  the  re- 
mains of  boiled  turbot.  Remove  the 
flesh  from  the  bones  while  it  is  still 
warm,  if  possible;  divide  it  into  con- 
venient-sized pieces,  and  take  away 
all  the  skin.  Put  a pint  of  milk  or 
cream,  or  equal  parts  of  either  milk 


and  white  stock  or  milk  and  cream, 
into  a stewpan  with  a strip  of  thin 
lemon -rind,  a finely  minced  shallot, 
six  peppercorns,  and  half  a teaspoon- 
ful of  salt.  Let  it  boil  for  ten  minutes, 
then  strain  and  thicken  it  with  a 
large  table-spoonful  of  flour  mixed 
smoothly  with  a little  cream  or  butter. 
Stir  the  sauce  over  a gentle  fire  for 
five  minutes,  put  in  the  slices  of  fish, 
and  when  they  are  quite  hot  turn 
the  whole  preparation  upon  a hot 
dish.  A few  oysters  may  be  added  to 
the  sauce,  if  liked,  and,  if  milk  only  is 
used,  the  sauce  may  be  made  richer 
by  adding  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 
mixed  with  a little  cream.  If  this 
is  done,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  let 
the  sauce  boil  after  the  eggs  are 
added.  Garnish  the  dish  with  sliced 
lemon  and  parsley,  or  with  potato 
croquettes  or  toasted  sippets.  Time, 
three  or  four  minutes  to  heat  the  fish 
in  the  sauce. 

Turbot  a la  Creme. — Take  the  flesh 
from  the  remains  of  a boiled  turbot, 
free  it  from  bones  and  skin,  and  di- 
vide it  into  neat  pieces;  season  with 
a little  salt,  pepper,  and  grated  nut- 
meg ; pour  on  it  the  grated  juice  of  a 
lemon,  and  let  it  lie  for  an  hour.  Sim- 
mer half  a pint  of  new  milk  with  a 
strip  of  lemon  rind  and  a bay-leaf 
till  it  is  pleasantly  flavored.  Strain 
it  over  the  fish,  and  let  it  heat  gently. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  mix 
them  smoothly  with  a table-spoonful 
of  flour  and  half  a pint  of  thick  cream. 
Stir  this  carefully  into  the  sauce,  let 
it  get  quite  hot,  but  on  no  account 
allow  it  to  boil.  Serve  immediately. 
Time,  a few  minutes  to  heat  the  fish 
in  the  sauce. 

Weakfish,  Boiled.  Same  as  Bass. 

Weakfish,  Broiled.  Same  as  Blue- 
fish. 

Whitebait,  Dressed. — Take  the 
whitebait  out  of  the  water  with  the 
fingers,  drain  them,  and  throw  them 
into  a cloth  upon  which  flour  has 
been  strewn.  Shake  them  in  the 


131 


Whitefish,  Planked 


FISH 


Clam  Broth 


cloth  to  make  the  flour  adhere  to  them 
then  toss  them  in  a large,  wide  sieve, 
to  free  them  from  the  superfluous 
flour.  If  the  fish  stick  together, 
separate  them,  but  they  will  not  do 
this  if  they  are  fresh.  Have  ready 
plenty  of  boiling  beef  fat  (this  is 
much  better  than  lard,  which  is 
usually  recommended),  put  the  white- 
bait  a few  at  a time  into  a wire  basket, 
plunge  in  the  boiling  fat,  and  leave 
them  for  a minute  or  two.  At  the  end 
of  that  time  shake  them  to  keep  them 
from  sticking  together,  and  when 
they  are  slightly  crisp  without  being 
browned  they  are  done  enough. 
Drain  them  from  the  fat  while  they 
are  still  in  the  basket,  sprinkle  a little 
salt  upon  them,  pile  them  on  a napkin, 
garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  very 
hot.  Send  quarters  of  lemon  and 
brown  bread  and  butter  to  table  with 
them.  Time  to  fry  the  whitebait, 
a few  minutes. 

Whitefish,  Planked. — Take  a piece 
of  any  well-seasoned  hard  wood,  one 
and  a half  feet  long  and  one  foot  wide. 
Scale  and  split  a fresh,  large  white- 
fish  down  the  back,  clean  and  wash 
it  well,  wipe  dry,  dredge  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Heat  the  plank,  spread  the 
fish,  skin  side  down,  on  it,  and  fasten 


in  place  with  large  tacks.  Set  in  front 
of  a hot  fire,  and  watch  carefully  to 
prevent  it  burning  until  done.  Spread 
with  butter,  withdraw  the  tacks,  and 
slip  the  fish  from  the  plank  on  to  a 
heated  dish.  Garnish  with  parsley 
and  serve  with  Madeira  sauce. 

Whitefish  Salad. — Boil  some  white- 
fish,  sufficient  for  your  salad.  When 
ready,  take  it  out  of  the  water.  Boil 
gently  in  the  same  water  half  a pack- 
age of  gelatine  and  whites  of  two  eggs. 
Strain,  and  set  aside  to  cool.  Re- 
move the  bones  from  the  fish  and  pick 
it  into  small  pieces,  which  place  in  a 
layer  on  a platter  with  some  sharp 
gravy  poured  over  it.  Next  a layer 
of  beets,  pickled  cucumbers,  and  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  all  cut  in  thin  slices ; then 
fish  with  gravy,  and  so  on.  Con- 
tinue until  all  the  fish  is  used,  the  last 
layer  being  gravy.  Garnish  with 
capers,  pieces  of  the  fish  jelly,  and 
pickled  beets. 

Fish  Salad.  See  Fish ; also  Salads. 

..  Force-meat  for.  See  Force-meats. 

..  Force-meat  of. 

Gravy  for  Curried.  See  Gravies. 

..  White,  Gravy  for.- 

Souffle.  See  Souffles. 

Curry-soup.  See  Soups. 


SHELL-FISH 

CLAMS,  CRABS,  LOBSTERS,  MUSSELS,  OYSTERS,  PRAWNS, 
SCALLOPS,  SHRIMPS,  ETC. 


Clam  Bisque. — Take  one  quart  of 
clams,  pick  them  over  and  chop  them 
fine.  Put  them  into  a qiiart  of  water, 
adding  all  the  liquid;  set  them  on  the 
fire,  and  let  them  stew  until  all  the 
goodness  is  extracted.  Strain  off  the 
liquor  and  leave  it  to  settle.  Set  one 
quart  of  milk  to  boil,  and  thicken  it 
with  one  table-spoonful  of  butter  and 
one  table-spoonful  of  flour  braided  to- 
gether. Pour  off  the  liquor  carefully, 
lest  there  should  be  any  sand  or  bits 


Clam  Broth. — Take  twenty -five 
clams,  chop  fine  with  a silver  knife. 
Put  in  a vessel  with  one  pint  of  cold 
water,  one  bay-leaf,  a slice  of  onion, 
one-quarter  of  a teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  bring  to  the  boiling-point.  Strain, 
return  to  the  saucepan,  bring  to  a boil 
again,  add  a table-spoonful  of  butter, 
turn  in  a tureen,  and  season  with 
a table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
It  will  often  bring  back  or  create  an 
appetite. 


132 


Clam  Chowder 


FISH 


Crab,  Curried 


of  clam  in  the  sediment ; add  it  to  the 
milk,  and  serve  hot.  This  is  very 
delicate,  and  is  liked  by  many  peo- 
ple who  do  not  care  for  clam  soup  pre- 
pared in  the  usual  way. 

Clam  Chowder. — Wash  six  fine, 
medium-sized  potatoes;  peel  and  cut 
them  into  small,  dice-shaped  pieces, 
wash  again  in  fresh  Water ; take  them' 
up  with  a skimmer  and  place  them  in  a 
stewpan  large  enough  to  hold  three 
quarts.  Immediately  add  two  quarts 
of  cold  water  (not  placing  the  pan  on 
the  fire  until  so  mentioned).  Peel  one 
medium -sized,  sound  onion;  chop  it 
up  very  fine  and  place  it  on  a plate. 
TaKe  a quarter  of  a bunch  of  well- 
Washed  parsley  greens  (suppressing 
the  stalks),  place  it  with  the  onions, 
wash  well  two  branches  of  soup  celery, 
chop  it  up  very  fine,  place  it  with  the 
parsley  and  onions,  and  add  all  these 
in  the  stewpan.  Place  the  pan  on  a 
brisk  fire.  Season  with  a light  pinch 
of  salt,  adding  at  the  same  time  a light 
teaspoonful  of  good  butter.  Let  all 
cook  until  the  potatoes  are  nearly  done 
— eighteen  minutes  will  be  sufficient. 
Cut  out  from  a piece  of  fresh  pork, 
crosswise,  one  slice  one-third  of  an  inch 
thick,  then  cut  it  in  pieces  one-third  of 
an  inch  square ; fry,  and  reduce  it  in 
a pan  on  the  hot  stove  for  four  minutes. 
Add  it  to  the  broth ; add  also  three- 
quarters  of  a teaspoonful  of  branch 
dry  thyme.  Lightly  scald  four  fine, 
medium-sized  tomatoes,  peel  and  cut 
them  into,  small  pieces,  and  add  them 
to  the  preparation.  Open  and  place 
in  a bowl  twenty-four  medium-sized, 
fine,  fresh  clams.  Pour  into  another 
bowl  half  of  their  juice.  Place  the 
clams  on  a wooden  board,  cut  each 
one  into  four  equal  pieces,  and  im- 
mediately plunge  them  into  the  pan 
with  the  rest;  gently  mix,  so  as  to 
prevent  burning  at  the  bottom  while 
boiling,  for  two  minutes.  Range  the 
pan  on  the  corner  of  the  stove  to  keep 
warm.  Season  with  one  salt-spoon- 
ful of  black  pepper  and  one  table- 
spoonful of  Worcestershire  sauce ; 
gently  stir  the  whole  with  a wooden 
spoon,  break  in  two  pilot  crackers  in 


small  pieces,  stir  a little  again.  Leave 
two  minutes  longer  in  the  same  posi- 
tion, but  under  no  circumstances  allow 
to  boil.  Put  it  into  a hot  soup-tureen 
and  serve. 

Another  way  : — Cut  Vz  lb.  of  fat  salt 
pork  into  tiny  dice,  and  fry  crisp  in  a 
large  pot.  Remove  the  bits  of  pork 
with  a skimmer,  and  fry  a large  onion, 
sliced,  in  the  fat  left  in  the  bottom 
of  the  pot.  Have  ready  twelve  pota- 
toes, peeled  and  sliced,  and  a quart 
of  canned  tomatoes,  a nd,  as  the  onion 
browns,  turn  these  in  upon  it  and  add 
two  quarts  of  water.  Stir  all  together, 
and  .season  with  a liberal  pinch  of 
cayenne  and  as  much  salt  as  taste 
demands.  Tie  up  twelve  whole  all- 
spice and  twelve  whole  cloves  in  a 
small  square  of  cheese-cloth  and  drop 
in  the  pot.  Cook  slowly,  but  steadily, 
three  hours  and  a half,  then  add  two 
quarts  of  long  clams,  chopped  coarse- 
ly, and  half  a dozen  pilot  biscuits, 
broken  in  pieces  and  soaked  in  milk. 
Boil  for  half  an  hour  longer,  remove 
the  spice-bag  and  pour  the  chowder, 
smoking  hot,  into  a soup-tureen. 

Clam  Fritters. — Two  dozen  clams, 
one  egg,  one  cupful  of  milk,  two  small 
cupfuls  of  flour,  or  enough  for  thin  bat- 
ter ; salt  and  pepper.  Chop  the  clams 
fine,  and  stir  them  into  the  batter  made 
of  the  milk,  clam  liquor,  beaten  eggs, 
and  the  flour.  Season  to  taste,  and 
fry  by  the  spoonful  in  very  hot  lard. 

Crab,  Baked.  — Pick  the  crab,  cut 
the  solid  part  into  small  pieces,  and 
'mix  the  inside  with  a little  rich  gravy, 
or  cream,  and  seasoning ; then  add 
some  curry  paste  and  fine  bread- 
crumbs. Put  all  into  the  shell  of  the 
crab,  and  finish  in  a Dutch  oven. 

Crab  Bisque. — The  recipe  for  Lob- 
ster Soup  or  Bisque  can  be  used  by 
substituting  crab  meat  for  the  lobster. 

Crab,  Curried. — Pound  a clove  of 
garlic  in  a mortar  with  the  white  part 
of  half  a small  cocoanut,  a table- 
spoonful of  curry  powder,  a salt-spoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  a piece  of  butter  about 


133 


Crabs,  Devilled 


FISH 


Lobsters 


the  size  of  a walnut.  When  these 
are  beaten  to  a paste,  mix  them  very 
smoothly  over  a gentle  fire  with  Y\  lb. 
of  fresh  butter,  taking  especial  care 
that  the  saucepan  is  delicately  clean. 
Add  the  crab  meat,  and  gradually 
a small  cupful  of  cream.  A pound 
of  French  beans,  cut  into  thin  strips 
and  simmered  with  the  crab,  is  some- 
times added  to  this  dish.  Just  before 
serving,  squeeze  over  it  the  juice  of  a 
lemon.  Serve  with  rice  round  the 
dish.  Lobster  may  be  used  instead 
of  crab.  Time  to  simmer,  ten  minutes. 

Crabs,  Devilled. — Two  cans  of  crabs, 
one  cupful  of  cream,  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  melted  butter,  two  good  table- 
spoonfuls of  Worcestershire  sauce,  pep- 
per and  salt,  a little  nutmeg,  yolks  of 
three  hard-boiled  eggs,  half  a cup- 
ful of  cracker-crumbs,  rolled  fine,  and 
a wineglassful  of  sherry.  Bake  in 
shells,  cover  with  cracker- crumbs, 
and  dot  with  butter. 

Another  way : — Boil  a dozen  crabs 
in  salt  water  until  done.  Take  up, 
drain,  break  off  the  claws,  separate 
the  shells,  remove  the  spongy  fingers 
and  the  stomach.  Pick  out  all  the 
meat.  Put  a teacupful  of  rich  milk 
on  to  boil,  rub  I oz.  each  of  butter  and 
flour  together,  add  to  the  boiling  milk, 
and  let  cook  for  two  or  three  minutes. 
Take  from  the  fire,  add  the  crab  meat, 
the  mashed  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled 
eggs,  a teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley, 
a squeeze  of  lemon-juice,  a little  nut- 
meg, salt,  and  a dash  of  cayenne. 
Clean  the  upper  shells  of  the  crabs,  fill 
with  the  mixture,  brush  over  with 
beaten  egg,  sprinkle  with  bread- 
crumbs. Set  in  the  oven  to  brown, 
and  serve  hot. 

Crabs,  Soft-shell. — Remove  the  flap 
or  apron  on  the  under  shell,  and  the 
soft  fins  which  lie  under  the  sides 
of  the  back  shell ; make  a semicircu- 
lar cut  just  back  of  the  eyes,  through 
both  shells,  using  a very  sharp  knife, 
and  throw  away  this  portion ; all  the 
rest  of  the  crab  is  good.  Soft  crabs 
are  fried  by  being  entirely  immersed 
in  smoking-hot  fat  after  being  rolled 


in  flour  or  meal,  or  breaded  by  being 
dipped  first  in  cracker-dust,  then  in 
beaten  egg,  and  again  in  cracker-dust ; 
they  are  also  dipped  in  melted  butter, 
and  broiled;  they  are  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  served  with  a gar- 
nish of  lemon  and  parsley  or  water- 
cresses. 

Crab  Soup,  Martha  Washington’s. 

— Fifteen  crabs  thrown  into  boiling 
water,  alive.  Boil  until  done;  meat 
picked  up  fine  ; put  into  two  quarts  of 
water  in  which  I lb.  of  middling  ba- 
con has  been  boiled.  Beat  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  stir  in  a pint  of  rich  milk 
which  has  been  heated ; then  pour  into 
the  boiling  crab  soup,  which  must  not 
boil,  but  cook  a fewaninutes  after  mix- 
ing. Season  with  salt  and  cayenne 
pepper  to  taste. 

Lobsters  are  served  in  several  ways, 
but  there  is  only  one  way  to  cook  them. 
To  be  good,  a lobster  must  be  fully 
alive.  If  it  is  not  lively,  it  is  not 
suitable  to  be  cooked.  Put  the  lob- 
ster in  a fish-kettle,  with  just  enough 
cold  water  to  cover  it,  and  a hand- 
ful of  salt.  Cover  the  kettle,  and  put 
it  over  a brisk  fire.  If  the  lobster 
be  small,  it  will  take  twenty  min- 
utes to  cook ; if  it  be  3 lbs.  or  there- 
abouts, it  will  take  half  an  hour. 
When  done,  it  is  broken  in  two  be- 
tween the  body  and  tail,  and  both 
pieces  are  allowed  to  drain.  There 
is  a dark-bluish  vein  running  along 
the  back  immediately  under  the  shell 
that  must  be  removed  either  before 
or  after  it  is  cooked.  By  pulling  off 
the  middle  fin  of  the  fan  before  cook- 
ing the  lobster,  it  may  come  out,  but 
if  it  breaks  it  is  removed  when  the 
fish  is  cooked.  When  drained,  the 
shell  of  the  tail  part  is  removed  by 
cutting  it  lengthwise  on  the  back  with 
a sharp  - pointed  knife.  The  other 
half  is  divided  by  pulling  the  part  to 
which  the  claws  are  attached  one  way 
and  the  back  shell  the  other.  All 
the  inside  is  good  except  the  stomach, 
which  is  small  for  the  size  of  the  fish, 
and  is  found  immediately  under  the 
head  and  eyes.  The  liver,  or  to- 


134 


Lobster,  Baked 


FISH 


Lobster,  Coquilles  of 


malley,  which  turns  green  in  cook- 
ing, is  as  good  as  the  rest,  and  makes 
a good  sauce  for  the  lobster,  mixed 
with  the  white  or  creamy  substance 
found  around  the  shell,  the  two  being 
again  mixed  with  oil,  vinegar,  salt, 
pepper,  chopped  parsley,  and  mustard. 

Lobster,  Baked. — Prepare  as  if  for 
broiling ; put  in  a pan,  butter  well, 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
bake  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes. 
Baste  twice  with  melted  butter. 

Lobster,  Broiled. — Cut  the  shell 
down  the  middle  of  the  back  with  a 
sharp  knife,  then  split  it  in  half  with 
a large,  heavy  knife  and  a mallet. 
Remove  the  stomach  and  the  intes- 
tines. Lay  the  two  halves  and  the 
large  claws  cracked  open  on  a broiler, 
the  shell  side  towards  the  fire,  and 
broil  half  an  hour.  When  half  done 
put  a little  butter  upon  the  meat,  and 
when  about  to  serve  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  a little  more  butter.  Serve 
with  melted  butter  in  a separate  dish. 

Lobsters,  Casserole  of. — Put  four 
quarts  of  water  in  a fish-kettle ; add 
one  medium-sized  onion,  sliced,  one 
gill  of  vinegar,  four  sprigs  of  parsley, 
one  bay-leaf,  three  cloves,  six  pepper- 
corns, half  a table-spoonful  of  salt ; 
let  boil  ten  minutes.  Add  two  me- 
dium-sized live  lobsters;  cook  them 
eighteen  minutes ; remove  the  kettle 
from  the  fire  and  let  them  cool  off 
in  the  court-bouillon ; then  take  them 
out.  Cut  the  shells  open  and  also 
the  claws.  Cut  the  meat  from  the 
tail  part  in  pieces  half  an  inch  thick, 
and  that  of  the  claws  in  small  dice. 
Keep  them  separate.  Crack  open  the 
body  of  the  lobster  and  take  the  coral 
and  pith  out ; mash  them  through 
a colander ; then  prepare  the  follow- 
ing garnishing  of  rice  : Put  in  a 

saucepan  two  table-spoonfuls  of  but- 
ter; when  melted  add  to  it  one  large 
table-spoonful  of  white  onion,  chopped 
fine  ; cook  four  minutes,  toss  them, 
and  do  not  let  them  get  brown;  add 
to  them  one  pint  of  rice ; see  that  it  is 
very  clean,  but  do  not  wash  it;  stir 


it  with  the  onions  for  one  minute ; 
pour  over  one  quart  and  a half  of 
good  warm  broth ; if  none  is  at  hand, 
one  teaspoonful  of  beef  extract  dilut- 
ed ; season  with  half  a teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  a little  cayenne  pepper. 
Cover  the  saucepan ; cook  slowly  for 
twenty-five  minutes  ; do  not  stir  while 
cooking.  Remove  the  saucepan  from 
the  fire  and  keep  warm;  then  add 
to  the  rice  the  coral  and  pith  with 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  cut  in 
small  lumps ; then  the  meat  of  the 
claws ; season  with  half  a salt-spoon- 
ful of  cayenne  pepper  and  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  freshly  grated  Parme- 
san or  six  table  - spoonfuls  of  Swiss 
cheese  ; mix  gently  and  keep  it  warm. 
To  prepare  the  lobster  scallops  melt 
in  a separate  saucepan  two  table- 
spoonfuls of.  butter;  when  hot,  not 
brown,  add  the  pieces  of  lobster; 
sprinkle  with  a few  grains  of  salt  and 
white  pepper;  cook  one  minute  only 
on  each  side;  remove  from  the  fire 
and  pour  over  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  tomato  puree;  stir  gently.  Pour 
the  garnishing  of  rice  into  a warm,  sil- 
ver bowl.  In  the  centre  arrange  the 
scallops  of  lobster,  with  a border  of 
small  mushrooms  around.  Sprinkle 
over  all  one  table-spoonful  of  cheese ; 
serve  very  hot. 

Lobster,  Coquilles  of. — Cut  the  meat 
of  a 3-lb.  lobster  into  neat  pieces,  mix- 
ing with  it  the  coral  and  green  fat. 
Cook  together  in  a saucepan  a tabie- 
spoonful  of  flour  and  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter  until  they  bubble,  and 
pour  upon  them  a half-pint  of  single 
cream.  Stir  until  you  have  a thick, 
smooth  sauce,  and  then  add  the  lob- 
ster. Season  with  a scant  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  a salt-spoonful  of  cayenne  pep- 
per, and  the  juice  of  a lemon.  When 
the  lobster  is  smoking  hot,  put  in 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  thick,  double 
cream ; take  from  the  fire  and  fill  scal- 
lop - shells  or  nappies  with  the  mixt- 
ure. Over  the  top  strew  fine  bread- 
crumbs, cut  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter  into  bits  and  distribute  these 
over  the  crumbs.  Place  in  the  oven, 
brown  lightly,  and  serve.  Lay  a quar- 

J35 


Lobster-coral  Sauce 


FISH 


Lobsters,  Jellied 


ter -lemon  on  each  plate  holding  a 
nappy. 

Lobster-coral  Sauce. — Thicken  a 
half-pint  of  strong  white  stock  with  I 
oz.  of  flour  rubbed  with  I oz.  of  butter, 
and  add  a gill  of  thick  cream  and  the 
coral  of  the  lobster  pounded  with  I oz. 
of  butter.  Simmer  the  sauce,  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  sherry  and  a squeeze 
of  lemon- juice,  and  strain  through  a 
tiny  sieve. 

Lobster,  Creamed.  — Cut  all  the 
meat  of  a 3-lb.  boiled  lobster  into  dice. 
Put  I oz.  of  butter  in  a frying-pan, 
let  melt,  and  add  a table-spoonful  of 
sifted  flour.  Mfx  smooth ; pour  in  a 
teacupful  of  milk;  stir  until  boiling. 
Add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped 
mushrooms  with  the  lobster ; salt  and 
pepper  to  season.  Stir  until  well  heat- 
ed, and  serve  in  paper  cases. 

Lobster,  Curried. — Take  the  meat 
from  two  medium-sized  boiled  lob- 
sters, break  it  into  fair-sized  pieces 
and  put  to  one  side.  Put  into  a sauce- 
pan two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  one 
chopped  onion,  and  some  sprigs  of 
parsley ; add  a very  little  white  stock, 
cover  the  pan,  and  cook  five  minutes. 
Then  stir  in  one  table-spoonful  each 
of  corn -starch  and  curry  powder. 
When  they  are  blended  with  the  other 
ingredients,  add  a generous  half-pint 
of  white  stock  and  let  the  mixture 
cook  five  minutes.  Put  the  lobster 
into  another  saucepan  and  strain  the 
sauce  over  it.  Add  a table-spoonful 
of  wine,  or,  if  wine  is  not  desired,  sub- 
stitute lemon -juice.  With  a silver 
fork  carefully  toss  the  lobster  and 
sauce  together,  and  when  the  mixture 
is  heated  turn  it  into  the  centre  of  a 
hot  platter  and  place  around  the  lob- 
ster boiled  rice  or  pieces  of  crisp  but- 
tered toast. 

Lobster  Farci. — Boil  the  lobsters 
and  pick  out  the  meat,  and  in  the  pro- 
portion of  two  cupfuls  of  the  meat  use 
one  cupful  of  cream  or  milk,  two  ta- 
ble - spoonfuls  of  butter,  one  table- 
spoonful of  flour,  yolks  of  two  hard- 


boiled  eggs,  salt  and  pepper.  Put  into 
a saucepan  one  table-spoonful  of  but- 
ter ; when  it  bubbles,  but  not  browns, 
add  the  flour,  then  the  milk,  and  stir 
until  thick  and  smooth ; remove  from 
the  fire ; add  the  salt  and  pepper,  the 
yolks  mashed  fine,  and  the  lobster 
meat;  put  the  mixture  in  a baking- 
iish,  and  cover  the  top  with  bread- 
crumbs which  have  been  moistened 
with  the  remaining  butter ; put  in  an 
oven  to  brown. 

Another  way  : — Put  a teacupful  of 
milk  on  to  boil.  Rub  I oz.  of  butter 
with  2 ozs.  of  flour  together,  and  stir 
into  the  boiling  milk.  Take  from  the 
fire,  add  half  a teacupful  of  grated 
bread  - crumbs,  a table  - spoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  the  yolks  of  four 
hard-boiled  eggs  mashed  fine,  1 lbs. 
of  boiled  lobster  cut  into  small  pieces, 
with  half  a grated  nutmeg,  salt,  and 
cayenne.  Mix  all  together  well.  Have 
the  lobster  shells  cleaned,  cut  off  the 
under  part  of  the  shell,  join  the  large 
ends  of  the  two  tail  shells  to  the  body, 
fill  these  shells  with  the  mixture, 
brush  the  top  over  with  beaten  egg, 
sprinkle  with  grated  bread-crumbs, 
and  set  in  a hot  oven  for  twenty  min- 
utes to  brown.  Serve  hot  in  the  shells, 
garnished  with  parsley. 

Lobster,  Fricasseed. — Put  into  a 
chafing-dish,  over  hot  water,  one  table- 
spoonful of  butter  and  one- half  cup- 
ful of  hot  water.  When  the  butter  is 
melted,  add  two  cupfuls  of  lobster 
meat  cut  into  bits.  When  hot,  add 
one  table-spoonful  of  vinegar,  a little 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  mustard,  and 
one  beaten  egg.  Stir  constantly  un- 
til the  sauce  is  thick  and  creamy. 
Serve  at  once. 

Lobsters,  Jellied. — Cut  up  3 lbs. 
of  boiled  lobster  meat.  Take  half  a 
cupful  of  mayonnaise,  a cupful  of 
stiff  aspic  jelly,  a teaspoonful  of  gel- 
atine, and  a table-spoonful  of  to- 
mato sauce.  Put  the  dissolved  gel- 
atine, the  jelly,  mayonnaise,  and 
tomato  sauce  in  a bowl  and  set  on 
ice ; beat  until  stiff  and  white ; add 
the  lobster  with  a little  chopped 


Lobster  a la  Newburg 


FISH 


Lobster  Salad 


tarragon.  Make  little  cases  by  pin- 
ning bands  of  writing-paper  around 
ramekin  cases ; fill  with  the  mixture, 
piling  high.  Arrange  on  a dish  and 
set  on  ice.  When  firm  remove  the 
paper  bands,  sprinkle  with  dried  lob- 
ster coral,  and  serve. 

Lobster  a la  Newburg. — Cut  the 

meat  of  a large  boiled  lobster  into 
pieces  a little  less  than  an  inch  square ; 
rub  the  yolks  of  two  hard  - boiled 
eggs  to  a smooth  paste  with  a table- 
spoonful of  cream ; cook  together  in 
a saucepan  two  table-spoonfuls  of  but- 
ter and  a heaping  dessert  - spoonful 
of  flour;  stir  into  this  the  paste  made 
of  the  yolks,  then,  slowly,  a cupful 
of  cream  to  which  a pinch  of  soda 
has  been  added.  When  the  cream 
just  reaches  the  boiling-point  put 
in  the  lobster  meat  and  a pinch  each 
of  salt,  pepper,  and  ground  mace. 
Stir  over  the  fire  for  a minute  or  two, 
add  a wineglassful  of  sherry,  and 
serve. 

Another  way  : — One  medium-sized 
lobster,  one-half  pint  of  sherry,  one- 
half  pint  of  sweet  cream,  one  table- 
spoonful of  corn-starch.  Salt  and 
cayenne  to  taste.  Cut  the  lobster  in 
small  pieces,  put  in  the  blazer,  and 
add  the  cream  and  sherry  before 
lighting  the  alcohol-lamp.  When  the 
mixture  is  heated  add  a large  table- 
spoonful of  corn-starch  to  thicken 
the  sauce.  Add  a pinch  of  cayenne 
pepper,  and  salt  to  taste.  Cook  until 
the  sauce  is  sufficiently  thickened. 
Garnish  with  sliced  lemon.  This 
quantity  makes  two  of  the  portions 
ordinarily  served  in  restaurants,  and 
is  enough  for  four  people. 

Another  way  (the  Ma  jor’s  recipe)  : — 
One  large  lobster  weighing  about  3 
lbs.,  one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  one 
gill  of  sherry  wine,  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
half  a pint  of  cream,  one  table-spoonful 
of  flour;  salt,  mustard,  and  red  pepper 
to  taste.  Cut  the  nicest  part  of  the 
lobster  into  small  pieces.  Put  them 
into  a chafing-dish  with  the  butter ; 
season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  mustard ; 
pour  part  of  wine  over  it  and  cook  ten 
minutes.  Then  add  the  beaten  yolks 


of  eggs  mixed  with  some  of  the  cream. 
Let  it  come  to  a boil ; then  add  rest  of 
cream  thickened  with  the  flour,  and, 
last  of  all,  the  remainder  of  the  sherry. 
Serve  immediately. 

Lobster  Patties.  — Make  delicate 
puff  paste;  roll  out  an  inch  thick. 
With  a tin  cutter  cut  out  in  cakes, 
and  lay  on  greased  paper.  Brush 
over  with  a very  little  beaten  yolk  of 
an  egg.  With  a smaller  cutter  press 
a circle  nearly  through  each  patty, 
and  set  on  ice  for  twenty  minutes. 
Have  the  oven  very  hot,  and  set  them 
in  until  a light  brown.  Take  out 
and  remove  the  top  crust  very  care- 
fully, taking  out  with  a spoon  the 
unbaked  portion.  Set  the  patties 
back  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes  to 
dry.  Fill  with  creamed  lobster,  put 
on  the  top  crust,  and  serve. 

Lobster  Ragout.  — Remove  all 
the  meat  from  the  shell  of  a large 
boiled  lobster,  and  cut  it  into  square 
pieces.  Shred  two  large  onions,  and 
fry  brown  in  2 ozs.  of  butter,  pour  into 
the  frying-pan  half  a pint  of  soup 
stock,  seasoned  with  a teaspoonful 
of  salt,  a pinch  of  cayenne  pepper, 
a few  blades  of  mace,  and  the  juice  of 
a large  lemon.  When  boiling  hot, 
add  the  pieces  of  lobster,  stew  to- 
gether five  minutes,  and  serve  hot. 

Lobster  Salad.  — Pick  the  meat 
from  the  body  of  a lobster,  take  out 
the  tail  part  in  one  piece,  and  cut  it, 
with  the  contents  of  the  claws,  into 
slices  a quarter  of  an  inch  thick. 
Chop  the  whites  of  two  hard-boiled 
eggs  small,  and  rub  the  yolks  through 
a hair  sieve.  Do  the  same  with  the 
spawn  or  coral  of  the  lobster,  but  mix 
the  soft  part  and  any  bits  with  the 
sauce.  Pour  the  sauce  into  the  bowl, 
put  in  a layer  of  shred  lettuce  and 
small  salad,  and  place  the  slices  of 
lobster,  with  hard-boiled  eggs,  quar- 
tered and  interspersed  with  sliced 
beet-root,  cucumber,  etc.,  on  the  top. 
Repeat  in  the  same  manner  until 
the  bowl  is  full,  sprinkling  the  egg 
and  coral  over  and  between  the  layers. 


137 


Lobster-salad  Dressing 


FISH 


Lobster,  Shells  of 


To  ornament,  reserve  some  of  the 
hard-boiled  eggs,  yolks  and  whites, 
arrange  these,  with  the  coral,  beet- 
root, and  sliced  lobster,  so  that  the 
colors  may  contrast  well.  Before 
serving,  pour  some  mayonnaise  sauce 
over  the  top.  Crab  may  be  prepared 
in  the  same  manner. 

Lobster  - salad  Dressing.  — Sauce 
mayonnaise  is  the  most  suitable  dress- 
ing for  lobster  salad.  When  oil  is  not 
liked,  a dressing  may  be  made  as  fol- 
lows : Take  the  yolks  of  three  eggs 
which  have  been  boiled  hard  and  al- 
lowed to  become  cold.  Rub  them  in 
a bowl  with  the  back  of  a silver  spoon 
until  quite  smooth.  Add  one  tea- 
spoonful of  mixed  mustard,  half  a salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  one  table-spoonful 
of  cream,  and  a table-spoonful  of  vin- 
egar. Beat  together  until  thoroughly 
mixed.  A few  drops  of  oil  may  be 
added  or  not.  Time,  a quarter  of  an 
hour  to  prepare.  (For  other  recipes 
see  Salads.) 

Lobster-salad  Loaves. — This  is  a 
dainty  little  dish  for  lunch,  and  also 
a welcome  addition  to  picnic  viands. 
Cut  a small  piece  from  the  top  of  a 
French  roll,  and  remove  all  the  crumb 
from  the  inside.  Cut  cold  lobster 
into  pieces  about  the  size  of  dice, 
mix  it  with  mayonnaise  dressing, 
and  fill  the  cavity  in  the  rolls,  cover- 
ing with  the  piece  which  has  been 
removed.  A pretty  way  of  serving, 
which  also  secures  the  cover  firmly, 
is  to  tie  baby-ribbon  around  the  roll, 
finishing  with  a pretty  bow  on  top. 

Lobster  Salad,  Marseillaise. — Cook 
two  live  lobsters  of  2 lbs.  each  in 
a court-bouillon  made  with  six  quarts 
of  water,  two  gills  of  vinegar,  two 
sliced  onions,  six  sprigs  of  parsley, 
four  cloves,  two  bay-leaves,  and  four 
whole  peppers.  Tt  must  boil  ten  min- 
utes before  putting  in  the  lobster. 
Cook  twenty  minutes,  remove  from 
the  kettle,  and  lay  aside  to  cool. 
Shell  carefully  the  body  part,  and 
cut  into  four  pieces  lengthwise.  Cut 
the  balance  of  the  lobsters  into  small 


pieces,  reserving  two  of  the  largest 
claws  to  decorate  the  salad.  Put  all 
the  pieces  into  a bowl  with  two  bottoms 
of  artichokes,  previously  boiled  forty 
minutes  in  salted  water,  and  after- 
wards cut  into  eight  or  ten  pieces. 
Add  to  it  one  pint  of  very  small  boiled 
potatoes  cut  into  thin  slices,  four  hard- 
boiled  eggs  also  sliced,  and  two  medi- 
um-sized cucumbers  sliced.  Season 
the  whole  with  half  a table-spoonful  of 
salt,  one  salt-spoonful  of  white  pep- 
per, two  table-spoonfuls  of  wine  vine- 
gar, three  table-spoonfuls  of  olive  oil, 
mix  well,  and  put  the  bowl  half  an 
hour  on  the  ice,  then  put  the  salad  into 
a colander  to  drain  off  the  dressing. 
When  this  is  done  put  it  back  into  the 
bowl.  Have  a good  stiff  mayonnaise 
made  with  one  yolk  of  egg,  three  gills 
of  olive  oil,  one  table-spoonful  of  vin- 
egar, one  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  one 
teaspoonful  of  dry  mustard,  one  tea- 
spoonful of  chopped  tarragon,  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  green  onions.  Mix 
everything.  Pour  the  salad  into  a 
silver  platter.  (For  other  Lobster  Sal- 
ad recipes  see  Salads.) 

Lobster,  Shells  of. — Put  for  three 
minutes  in  boiling  water  six  live  lob- 
sters weighing  from  i to  I lbs.  each 
— the  smaller  they  are  the  better. 
Detach  the  large  claws  and  the  tail 
part  from  the  body,  leaving  the  car- 
cass. Prepare  this  court-bouillon : 
Put  in  a deep  saucepan  one  bottle  of 
ordinary  white  wine,  one  quart  of 
water,  two  carrots,  two  onions,  sliced 
very  thin,  four  sprigs  of  parsley,  one 
branch  of  celery,  two  cloves,  four 
whole  peppers,  one  bay-leaf,  one-half 
table-spoonful  of  salt;  cook  for  ten 
minutes ; put  all  the  pieces  of  lobster 
in  the  liquid,  cook  ten  minutes  more ; 
watch  so  it  cooks  evenly.  Drain  the 
pieces  of  lobster,  strain  the  liquid, 
open  the  shells,  remove  all  the  meat 
as  much  as  possible  in  whole.  Cut 
each  piece  neatly  in  squares  half  an 
inch  thick.  Put  in  a pan  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  olive  oil  and  four  finely 
chopped  shallots  ; cook  the  shallots  two 
minutes,  stirring  so  they  will  not  get 
brown.  Add  all  the  pieces  of  lobster, 

138 


Lobster  Soup,  Bisque 


FISH 


Lobsters,  Stuffed 


cook  five  minutes,  pour  the  broth  over 
them,  and  cook  five  minutes  more. 
Take  out  all  the  meat,  strain  the 
gravy,  skim  the  fat  from  the  top, 
wash  the  saucepan,  and  put  in  it 
one  table  - spoonful  of  butter  and 
one  table  - spoonful  of  flour.  Cook, 
stirring,  four  minutes,  not  to  let  it 
brown.  Pour  in  slowly,  while  con- 
stantly stirring,  the  broth  seasoned 
with  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one- 
half  salt-spoonful  of  white  pepper, 
quarter  of  a salt-spoonful  of  red  pep- 
per. Cook  eight  minutes,  to  reduce 
to  half,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  add, 
while  stirring,  one-half  pint  of  rich 
cream ; let  it  simmer  for  five  minutes, 
and  then  add  all  the  creamy-  part  of 
the  lobster,  one  table-spoonful  of  fresh 
butter,  and  all  the  pieces  of  lobster. 
Do  not  let  it  boil ; pour  over  with  care 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  brandjT;  light 
the  brandy  and  bum  it.  When  the 
flame  is  out,  stir  gently,  and  serve  in 
warm,  silver  shells.  Have  % lb.  of 
live  oyster  crabs,  wash  and  drain  them 
at  the  last  moment,  and  cook  them 
for  three  minutes  in  a little  of  the 
court-bouillon  of  the  lobster  which  has 
been  reserved. 

Lobster  Soup,  Bisque. — Pick  out 
all  the  meat  from  a boiled  lobster, 
pound  it  in  a mortar  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  butter  till  a fine  orange- 
colored  pulp  is  obtained  (if  there  is 
no  coral  add  a few  drops  of  cochineal)  ; 
to  this  add  pepper,  salt,  and  a soupgon 
of  grated  nutmeg  ; take  as  much  rolled 
bread-crumb  or  boiled  rice  as  there 
is  lobster  pulp,  soak  them  in  stock, 
melt  a piece  of  butter  in  a saucepan, 
amalgamate  with  it  a heaped  table- 
spoonful of  sifted  flour,  mix  the 
lobster  pulp  with  the  bread-crumbs 
or  rice,  and  put  both  in  the  sauce- 
pan on  the  fire,  stirring  the  contents 
until  they  thicken  and  come  to  a 
boil ; draw  it  then  on  one  side,  and 
carefully  skim  off  superfluous  fat ; 
then  strain  the  soup  through  a hair 
sieve,  make  it  boiling  hot,  and  serve 
with  croutons. 

Another  way  : — Take  half  a pint 
of  cooked  lobster  meat  cut  into  cubes, 


to  be  put  into  the  soup  just  before 
serving.  Take  a pint  of  lobster 
meat,  an  equal  quantity  of  boiled 
rice,  and  pound  into  a paste.  Put 
the  paste  with  4 ozs.  of  butter  and 
seasoning  of  salt,  pepper,  onion, 
celery,  parslej7,  mace,  nutmeg,  and 
one  tablespoonful  of  sifted  flour  with 
a quart  of  chicken  stock  in  a stew- 
pan  and  let  the  mixture  come  to  a 
boil.  Remove  to  back  of  stove  and 
let  it  remain  heated  about  an  hour 
without  boiling.  Strain  through  a 
sieve  ; add  the  reserved  lobster  meat 
and  a quart  of  cream ; let  it  simmer 
about  ten  minutes. 

Lobster  Souffle. — Pound  3 ozs.  of 
the  firm  red  and  white  flesh  of  a boiled 
hen  lobster  in  a mortar,  moisten  with 
the  whipped  yolks  of  three  eggs,  a 
scant  half-pint  of  cream  flavored  with 
essence  of  anchovies,  cayenne,  and 
a table-spoonful  of  sherry,  and  mix 
with  a light  hand  with  the  whipped 
whites  of  three  eggs.  Partially  fill 
a buttered  mould  with  the  batter,  tie 
over  a buttered  round  of  muslin,  and 
steam  for  half  an  hour.  Slip  the  souf- 
fle on  to  a heated  dish,  pour  over  and 
around  the  hot  coral  sauce,  and  serve 
without  a moment's  delay. 

Lobster,  Stewed.  — Pick  out  the 
meat  of  one  or  two  good-sized  lobsters, 
excluding  the  fat  and  red  parts,  chop 
very  fine,  and  put  it  into  a saucepan, 
with  a teacupful  of  grated  bread- 
crumbs, a lump  of  butter  the  size  of  an 
egg,  salt,  half  a teacupful  of  milk,  with 
cayenne  pepper  to  taste.  Warm  it 
quickly,  stirring  all  the  time,  as  it 
only  needs  to  boil  once.  Serve  in  a 
covered  dish. 

Lobsters,  Stuffed. — Put  two  live 
lobsters  of  about  1 x/\  lbs.  each  in 
two  quarts  of  boiling  water  seasoned 
with  one  sliced  onion,  four  sprigs 
of  parsley,  two  cloves,  one  small 
bay-leaf,  one  gill  of  vinegar,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Boil  twelve 
minutes,  and  remove  the  lobsters ; 
after  they  are  cool,  cut  the  tails  from 
the  body,  open  the  shells  from  under 


139 


Mussels  au  Gratin 


FISH 


Oysters,  Baltimore 


in  order  to  remove  the  meat,  keep 
the  shape  of  the  shells,  which  are  to 
be  stuffed  afterwards.  Cut  open 
the  large  claws  neatly  from  the  top, 
as  they  are  also  to  be  filled  up  and 
served.  Cut  the  meat  in  dice  half 
an  inch  square.  Peel,  wash,  and 
dry  Y\  lb.  of  fresh  mushrooms,  cut 
them  in  small  slices,  and  put  them 
in  a saucepan  with  half  a table- 
spoonful of  butter.  Cook  three  min- 
utes ; add  half  a gill  of  Madeira,  one 
table  - spoonful  of  parsley  chopped 
fine,  one  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a 
one  of  black  pepper,  quarter  of  a one 
of  red  pepper.  Add  the  lobster,  heat 
up  for  two  minutes  (do  not  boil), 
remove  from  the  fire,  add  the  yolks 
of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  previously 
passed  through  a sieve,  and  stir 
gently.  Fill  the  shells  with  the 
stuffing,  spread  over  some  white 
bread-crumbs — not  too  thick.  Melt 
a little  butter  in  a cup,  pour  it  over 
each  shell — about  one  teaspoonful  of 
it.  Place  in  the  baking-pan  and  in 
the  hot  oven  for  six  minutes ; they 
may  also  be  broiled,  if  preferred. 
Serve  in  the  shell  on  a warm  platter, 
with  a few  sprigs  of  parsley.  Serve 
very  hot. 

Mussels  au  Gratin. — Put  into  cold 
water  one  quart  of  very  fresh  mussels, 
and  scrape  them  until  perfectly  clean. 
Rinse  well,  drain,  and  dry  them  with 
a fresh  towel.  Put  in  saucepan  with 
half  a glassful  of  cold  water  and  cover, 
stirring  from  time  to  time.  Cook  un- 
til every  mussel  opens,  when  they  may 
be  taken  from  the  fire  and  drained. 
Remove  from  the  shells,  and  strain 
the  liquor  through  a fine  sieve  and  re- 
serve it.  Into  a small  saucepan  drop 
one  heaping  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
When  hot,  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
white  onions,  chopped  fine,  and  cook 
four  minutes.  Do  not  brown.  Add 
slowly  one  teaspoonful  of  flour  and 
blend  same  well.  Now,  while  stir- 
ring, slowly  add  the  liquor  of  the  mus- 
sels, and  cook  three  minutes  more. 
Season  with  one  salt-spoonful  of  salt 
and  one  of  pepper,  add  one  table- 
spoonful of  parsley,  chopped  fine,  and 


one  table-spoonful  of  wine  vinegar. 
Stir  well  and  remove  from  the  fire. 
Butter  well  a silver  baking-dish  and 
put  in  it  one  thin  layer  of  the  sauce 
just  described,  and  dress  the  mus- 
sels over.  Put  the  balance  of  the 
same  over  the  mussels,  and  cover  them 
with  one  thin  coat  of  freshly  made 
bread-crumbs.  Divide  in  small  pieces 
one  table-spoonful  of  fresh  butter  and 
distribute  over  the  crumbs.  Place 
quickly  in  warm  oven  and  cook  for 
seven  minutes.  Serve  the  mussels  in 
the  dish  in  which  they  have  been 
cooked,  as  to  transfer  them  would 
spoil  their  appearance.  Oysters  may 
be  cooked  in  practically  the  same  way. 
After  opening,  place  them  in  a sauce- 
pan in  their  own  liquor,  remove  at  the 
first  boiling,  and  then  proceed  as  de- 
scribed above. 

Mussels  a la  Marinifere. — Scrape 
with  a knife  and  wash  four  or  five 
times  in  cold  water  the  shells  of  a 
quart  of  very  fresh  mussels  of  medium 
size.  Wipe  dry,  and  put  them  into 
the  chafing-dish  with  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  cold  water,  a teaspoonful  each 
of  onions  and  parsley  chopped  very 
fine,  two  table  - spoonfuls  of  soft 
bread-crumbs  (crumbled,  not  grated), 
one  heaping  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
half  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two 
pinches  of  pepper.  Cover  and  cook 
six  minutes,  turning  the  mussels 
twice,  in  order  that  each  shell  shall 
open.  At  the  end  of  this  time  add 
a teaspoonful  of  good  vinegar  and 
mix  the  mussels  well  together.  When 
all  are  open  they  are  sufficiently 
cooked.  Take  out  the  empty  shells, 
pour  over  the  sauce,  and  serve.  This 
dish  needs  a good  flame,  and  should 
be  cooked  without  the  use  of  the  hot- 
water  pan.  A second  caution  is  that 
good  mussels  are  found  only  in  the 
very  best  markets. 

Oysters,  Baltimore  (in  chafing- 
dish.) — Drain  two  dozen  or  one  quart 
of  large  oysters.  Put  one  pint  of 
ordinary  white  wine  in  the  chafing- 
dish.  When  boiling,  put  in  the  oys- 
ters, cook  two  minutes,  strain  them 
140 


Oysters,  Broiled 


FISH 


Oysters,  Creamed 


well,  and  keep  the  wine  for  further 
use.  Remove  the  tendons  of  the  oys- 
ters, clean  the  chafing-dish,  and  put 
in  half  a table-spoonful  of  butter  and 
half  a table-spoonful  of  flour ; stir 
constantly  for  two  minutes.  Pour 
over  it  slowly  half  of  the  wdne,  and 
then  half  a pint  of  good,  rich  cream, 
always  stirring.  Season  with  one 
salt-spoonful  of  .salt,  half  a one  of 
black  pepper,  quarter  of  a one  of  red 
pepper.  Cook  for  eight  minutes,  add 
the  oysters,  and  cook  two  minutes 
more.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs 
with  a little  of  the  gravy,  add  half  a 
table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  put  out 
the  flame.  Pour  in  the  eggs  and  stir 
gently;  serve  at  once  very#hot.  The 
chafing-dish  bowl  must  be  directly  in 
contact  with  the  flame. 

Oysters,  Broiled. — The  largest  size 
must  be  selected  for  broiling.  Drain 
them,  and  lay  for  a few  minutes  in  a 
folded  napkin,  to  absorb  all  moisture. 
Rub  a little  butter  over  the  gridiron, 
and  place  the  oysters  on  it  before  plac- 
ing over  the  fire.  Sprinkle  salt  over 
them,  and  broil  first  on  one  side  and 
then  on  the  other.  Serve  on  a hot 
platter  with  drawn  butter,  or  arrange 
small  pieces  of  toasted  bread  on  the 
platter,  turn  the  oysters  on  the  toast, 
and  pour  over  all  a sauce  made  by 
simmering  together  the  liquor,  a bit 
of  butter,  and  enough  flour  to  thicken 
to  a consistency  of  cream.  A fine- 
meshed  wire  gridiron  is  the  best  for 
the  purpose.  It  should  be  kept  ex- 
clusively for  oysters.  If  meat  is 
broiled  on  it,  it  will  impart  an  un- 
pleasant taste. 

Another  way  : — After  being  strain- 
ed, the  oysters  are  rolled  in  fine  crack- 
er-crumbs, then  shaken  gently  on  a 
rough  towel,  dipped  into  melted  but- 
ter, rolled  in  bread  or  cracker  crumbs, 
and  broiled  on  the  gridiron.  Serve  hot. 
They  are  also  broiled  on  one  shell  after 
being  opened,  and  served  thus. 

Oysters  with  Cheese.  — Open  and 
drain  the  oysters ; take  a dish  that 
stands  the  heat  of  an  oven,  and  spread 
butter  on  the  bottom  of  it ; put  the  oys- 


ters on  the  butter  ; sprinkle  pepper  and 
chopped  parsley  all  over ; wet  with  half 
a tumblerful  of  champagne,  dust  the 
whole  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese. 
Set  the  dish  in  the  oven,  and  when 
they  are  of  a fine  color  take  them  off, 
and  serve  in  the  same  dish. 

Oyster  Cocktail.— Made  by  dress- 
ing oysters,  which  have  been  thorough- 
ly chilled,  with  tomato  catsup  and  a 
dash  of  tabasco  sauce.  Put  them  in 
tall  wineglasses  and  serve  very  cold  ; 
or  buy  scalloped  ice  shells  of  the  ca- 
terer to  use  instead  of  the  glasses.  If 
your  desire  for  the  attractive  must  be 
blended  with  economy,  you  can  make 
your  own  ice  shells  by  piling  up  scal- 
loped patty-pans,  each  half-filled  with 
water,  and  freezing  them. 

Oyster  Crabs  a la  Newburg. — 

Melt  one  table-spoonful  of  butter  in 
the  blazer ; add  one  of  flour,  and  stir 
until  it  is  very  smooth  and  well  cooked, 
but  not  brown.  Put  the  blazer  in  the 
hot-water  pan.  Add  one  cupful  of 
cream  to  the  butter  and  flour,  and 
when  it  begins  to  thicken  add  one 
pint  of  oyster  crabs.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  when  well  heated 
add  the  yolk  of  one  egg  beaten  with 
a little  cream,  one  table-spoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  and  two  or  three 
drops  of  lemon-juice.  Mix  well,  add 
one-fourth  of  a cupful  of  sherry,  and 
serve  at  once.  Care  should  be  taken 
in  stirring  to  have  the  sauce  smooth 
and  not  let  it  curdle. 

Oysters,  Creamed. — To  one  quart  of 
oysters  use  one  pint  of  cream.  Put 
the  cream  over  the  fire  in  a double 
boiler,  mix  a generous  table-spoonful 
of  flour  with  a little  cold  milk  and  stir 
into  the  cream  when  it  is  boiling. 
Season  with  salt,  a little  cayenne 
pepper,  and  a teaspoonful  of  onion- 
juice.  Let  the  oysters  come  to  a boil 
in  their  own  liquor.  Drain  off  all  the 
liquor  and  turn  the  oysters  into  the 
cream  mixture.  Have  ready  on  a hot 
platter  square  pieces  of  toast,  well  but- 
tered, and  turn  the  mixture  over  them. 
Serve  at  once. 


Oyster  Croquettes 


FISH 


Oyster  Fritters 


Oyster  Croquettes  are  very  appe- 
tizing, and  make  a nice  change  from 
fried  oysters.  Season  one  pint  of 
chopped  oysters  with  pepper  and  salt, 
mixing  well.  Melt  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  butter,  stir  into  it  one  table- 
spoonful of  flour,  half  a cupful  of 
the  oyster  liquor,  and  enough  rolled 
cracker  moistened  with  boiling  water 
to  make  a soft  paste ; add  the  chopped 
oysters,  and  mix  thoroughly.  When 
cold  take  a spoonful  for  each  cro- 
quette. Form  into  small  cakes  and 
fry  in  butter,  or  press  into  egg  shape, 
dip  into  egg  and  cracker,  and  fry  in 
boiling  lard. 

Oysters,  Crumbed  (in  chafing-dish). 
— Have  ready  large  oysters  (six  for 
each  person),  well  drained,  and  covered 
with  fine  cracker-crumbs,  highly  sea- 
soned with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  one 
heaped  table-spoonful  of  butter  in  the 
hot  blazer,  and  when  melted  lay  in  the 
oysters.  Turn  them  as  soon  as  yel- 
low, add  more  butter  as  needed,  and 
serve  as  soon  as  the  juice  begins  to 
flow.  Do  not  crowd  them  while  cook- 
ing. 

Oysters,  Curried. — Place  in  a sauce- 
pan one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and 
when  it  is  melted  stir  in  one  table- 
spoonful of  flour  and  a teaspoonful 
of  curry  powder.  Add  one  cupful  of 
the  oyster  liquor,  and  when  the  sauce 
is  cooked  add  one  dozen  oysters  to  this 
amount  of  sauce,  and  salt  to  suit  the 
taste.  The  oysters  should  cook  about 
three  minutes  ; then  turn  into  the  cen- 
tre of  a hot  platter.  Serve  with  celery 
and  rashers  of  bacon. 

Oysters,  Devilled. — Drain  two  dozen 
large,  fresh  oysters,  and  chop  them. 
Put  a teacupful  of  cream  on  to  boil. 
Rub  a table-spoonful  each  of  butter 
and  flour  together,  and  stir  into  the 
boiling  milk;  take  from  the  fire,  and 
add  the  oysters,  the  beaten  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  a table-spoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Have  the  oyster  shells  washed  clean, 
fill  with  the  mixture,  sprinkle  with 
grated  bread-crumbs,  arrange  in  a 


baking-pan,  and  set  in  a very  quick 
oven  to  brown.  Serve  in  shells ; gar- 
nish with  parsley. 

Oysters,  Fricassee  of. — Put  three 
dozen  oysters  in  a saucepan  with 
their  own  liquor;  set  on  the  fire;  as 
soon  as  they  come  to  a boil,  skim 
them  out ; add  2 ozs.  of  butter  to  the 
liquor,  with  a table-spoonful  of  flour 
mixed  smooth  in  a little  milk ; let  cook 
one  minute.  Take  from  the  fire;  mix 
in  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  the 
juice  of  half  a lemon,  a little  grated 
nutmeg  with  salt,  and  a sprinkle  of 
cayenne.  Stir  all  together;  return  to 
the  fire;  let  heat,  without  allowing  it 
to  boil.  Put  in  the  oysters,  take  up, 
and  serve  immediately. 

Oysters,  Fried  — Select  the  largest 
and  plumpest,  drain,  and  spread  on  a 
cloth  to  absorb  all  the  liquor ; beat  un- 
til light  the  yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs  ; 
dip  in  an  oyster,  then  into  rolled 
cracker,  again  into  the  egg,  and  then 
into  cracker.  Have  the  butter  per- 
fectly hot,  and  enough  in  the  dripping- 
pan  to  cover  the  oysters,  just  as  in 
frying  doughnuts  or  fritters.  Lay 
them  in  one  at  a time;  when  brown, 
turn,  and  brown  the  other  side. 
Cooked  in  this  manner,  they  are  less 
greasy  than  where  there  is  only  fat 
enough  to  fry  them  in  the  ordinary 
way.  Fried  oysters  should  be  served 
immediately. 

Oysters  Fried  in  Batter  (the  old 
Virginia  recipe). — Select  two  dozen 
large,  prime  oysters,  and  dry  them 
on  a soft  cloth.  Mix  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  sifted  flour,  one  table-spoonful 
of  olive  oil,  a little  salt,  and  the  beaten 
whites  of  two  eggs,  and  add  enough 
warm  water  to  make  a batter  that  will 
wash  the  bowl  of  a spoon.  Dust  each 
oj^ster  very  lightly  with  salt  and  white 
or  red  pepper ; dip  into  the  batter,  and 
fry  to  a golden  brown  in  deep  fat. 
Serve  on  a napkin  laid  on  a hot  dish, 
and  pass  sliced  lemon  with  them. 

Oyster  Fritters. — Drain  the  liquor 
from  two  dozen  oysters,  boil  and  skim 


142 


Oysters  au  Gratin 


FISH 


Oysters,  Pickled 


it.  Beat  three  eggs  with  a cupful  of 
cream,  add  flour  to  make  a stiff  batter, 
with  a teaspoonful  of  baking-powder 
and  a little  salt  and  pepper.  Have 
ready  a pan  of  boiling  fat.  Drop  one 
oyster  at  a time  in  the  batter,  take  out 
and  fry.  Take  up  carefully  on  a 
skimmer,  and  serve  immediately. 

Oysters  au  Gratin  (in  shells) . — Have 
a quart  of  large  oysters ; see  that  there 
are  no  pieces  of  shell  in  them.  Put 
in  a saucepan  with  half  of  their  liquor 
and  one  large  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Cover  the  pan,  put  over  the  stove  and 
cook  for  two  minutes;  then  add  one 
gill  of  Madeira  wine,  quarter  of  a salt- 
spoonful  of  black  pepper,  and  a quarter 
of  a one  of  red  pepper ; no  salt.  Peel 
and  wash  % lb.  of  fresh  mushrooms, 
chop  them  and  squeeze  the  water  out 
of  them  in  a clean  towel — add  them 
to  the  oysters,  and  cook  three  min- 
utes more.  Strain  oysters  and  mush- 
rooms over  the  saucepan,  keeping  the 
gravy  in  it  very  hot.  Arrange  the 
oysters  in  the  shells.  Beat  the  yolks 
of  two  raw  eggs  with  a little  of  the 
gravy,  remove  the  saucepan  from  the 
fire,  add  them  to  it,  with  one  table- 
spoonful of  very  fresh  butter.  Stir 
well,  pour  over  the  oysters  in  the 
shells.  Sprinkle  over  half  a table- 
spoonful of  freshly  made  bread- 
crumbs. Put  the  shells  in  the  oven 
for  two  or  three  minutes,  only  to  get 
warm,  not  to  cook.  Serve  at  once. 
This  dish  could  be  prepared  before- 
hand, putting  the  bread-crumbs  on 
only  when  ready  to  warm  the  shells. 

Oysters,  Kromeskies  of. — Put  two 

dozen  oysters  in  a saucepan  with  their 
own  liquor,  set  on  the  stove  to  boil 
for  two  or  three  minutes,  take  the  oys- 
ters up,  chop  fine,  return  to  the  sauce- 
pan with  four  table  - spoonfuls  of 
cream,  half  a dozen  chopped  mush- 
rooms, the  breast  of  a boiled  chick- 
en, chopped,  and  a teacupful  of  cold, 
boiled  ham,  minced  fine.  Rub  i oz. 
of  butter  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour  together,  and  stir  into  the  boil- 
ing mixture.  Add  a table-spoonful  of 
parsley  and  thyme,  a teaspoonful  of 


minced  onion,  the  beaten  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  with  salt  and  pepper;  mix  well 
together,  and  turn  out  to  cool.  When 
cold  and  firm,  roll  into  cylinders  about 
two  inches  long,  wrap  in  very  thin 
slices  of  bacon,  dip  in  egg-batter,  and 
fry  in  boiling  fat.  Garnish  with  pars- 
ley, and  serve  immediately. 

Oyster  Omelet.  — Allow  one  egg 
for  twelve  small  or  six  large  oysters. 
Place  the  oysters  in  a pan  and  let 
them  simmer  long  enough  to  draw 
out  the  liquor,  then  drain  and  chop 
fine.  Beat  the  eggs  very  light,  yolks 
and  whites  separately.  To  the  yolks 
add  one  table-spoonful  of  the  liquor 
for  each  egg,  a little  salt,  and  the 
minced  oysters ; beat  together,  stir  in 
the  whites  lightly,  and  turn  into  a 
hot,  buttered  pan.  As  soon  as  the 
under  side  is  brown,  roll  up  and  turn 
out  on  a platter. 

Oyster  Patties  are  made  by  lining 
pans  with  crust,  baking  half  done, 
and  filling  with  oysters  prepared  as 
for  pie.  They  will  need  no  upper 
crust,  but  must  be  set  back  into  the 
oven  long  enough  to  finish  baking 
the  under  crust,  and  to  let  the  filling 
become  a rich  brown  on  top.  Take  a 
dozen  and  a half  of  large  oysters  and 
put  in  a saucepan  with  their  own  liq- 
uor, set  over  the  fire  to  scald,  let  come 
to  a boil,  strain  off  the  liquor,  and  cut 
the  oysters  in  two.  Melt  a table-spoon- 
ful of  butter  in  a small  saucepan,  add 
a table-spoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  until 
well  heated;  pour  in  a teacupful  of 
the  oyster  liquor  and  half  a teacupful 
of  cream;  let  boil  until  thick,  add  the 
oysters,  let  heat,  season  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  a squeeze  of  lemon  juice ; 
take  from  the  fire,  and  fill  the  patty 
cases  with  the  oysters  and  sauce. 

Oysters,  Pickled. — Remove  the  ten- 
dons of  two  dozen  pickled  oysters, 
drain  them,  dress  them  nicely  on  a 
pretty  side-dish,  and  pour  over  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  ordinary  French 
dressing.  Crush  through  a strainer 
two  hard-boiled  eggs,  mix  them  with 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  dry  mustard, 


143 


Oyster  Pie 


FISH 


Oyster  Sauce 


sprinkle  this  over  the  oysters,  and 
place  around  them  a few  small  leaves 
of  white  celery. 

Oyster  Pie. — Line  a deep  dish  with 
puff  paste.  Lay  a plate  the  same  size 
as  the  dish  on  top  of  it ; over  this  put 
the  top  crust  (the  dish  supports  it),  as 
the  paste  must  go  into  the  oven  before 
the  oysters  are  put  in — it  requires 
more  cooking.  Prepare  the  oysters 
while  the  crust  is  cooking.  Strain  the 
liquor;  thicken  it  with  the  yolks  of 
eggs,  boiled  hard  and  grated ; add  a 
piece  of  butter  and  a few  fine  bread- 
crumbs ; season  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
nutmeg ; stew  for  five  minutes.  As 
soon  as  the  crust  is  done,  remove  the 
cover,  take  out  the  plate,  pour  in  the 
oysters  and  their  gravy,  put  the  cover 
on,  and  send  to  table  hot. 

Oysters  a la  Poulette. — Open  oys- 
ters, and  save  their  juice  carefully  ; 
put  them  on  the  fire  with  the  juice,  and 
when  they  come  to  a boil  take  them 
off ; add  butter,  parsley,  mushrooms, 
and  shallots,  chopped  fine,  a table- 
spoonful of  oil,  a little  grated  nutmeg 
and  pepper,  and  a few  bread-crumbs. 
Set  all  back  on  the  fire  for  a few  min- 
utes, stirring  the  while.  Turn  upon 
a dish,  sprinkle  the  juice  of  a lemon 
all  over,  and  serve  as  warm  as  possi- 
ble. 

Oysters,  Ramekins  of. — Drain  one 
quart  of  large  oysters,  plunge  them 
in  boiling  water  for  one  minute,  drain 
well,  cut  the  tendons  and  trim  them. 
Put  in  a small  saucepan  half  a table- 
spoonful of  flour,  half  a table-spoon- 
ful of  butter ; cook  for  three  minutes, 
stirring.  Do  not  brown.  Add  slow- 
ly half  a pint  of  good  broth,  and  then 
half  a pint  of  rich  cream.  Season  with 
half  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper;  cook  slowly  for 
eight  minutes.  Put  in  the  oysters; 
cook  three  minutes.  Slice  four  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  add  them  to  the  oysters, 
and  warm  them.  Remove  from  the 
fire.  Beat  two  yolks  of  raw  eggs 
with  a little  of  the  gravy,  and  add  to 
it  half  a table  - spoonful  of  butter. 


Pour  this  in  the  saucepan  and  mix 
gently.  Serve  in  ramekins  which 
have  been  warmed. 

Oysters,  Roasted. — Open  large  oys- 
ters, and,  when  drained,  melt  a little 
butter  in  a frying-pan,  and  then  cook 
the  oysters  in  it.  Serve  as  warm  as 
possible,  salting  them  when  out  of 
the  pan.  They  may  be  served  on 
toast. 

Another  way : — Put  the  oysters 
unopened  on  the  gridiron,  and  as 
soon  as  they  are  open  one  shell  is 
removed,  a little  melted  butter  is  put 
on,  with  white  pepper,  and  they  are 
thus  served,  warm.  They  may  be 
detached  from  the  shell  and  served 
on  toast  also.  Gravy  may  be  used 
instead  of  butter,  according  to  taste. 

Oyster  Salad. — Boil  two  dozen  oys- 
ters in  their  own  liquor  for  five  min- 
utes, drain,  and  stand  on  ice  till  very 
cold.  Arrange  crisp  lettuce  leaves  in 
a salad-bowl,  put  the  oysters  on  them, 
pour  over  a teacupful  of  mayonnaise 
dressing,  and  serve  very  cold. 

Oyster  Sandwiches. — Boil  the  oys- 
ters in  their  own  liquor  until  the  edges 
curl.  Remove  them  from  the  fire, 
and  when  cold  chop  them  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  celery  or  white  let- 
tuce leaves.  Mix  them  with  mayon- 
naise dressing  (they  must  have  been 
salted  when  cooked),  and  use  as  a 
filling  for  brown  bread.  Another 
variety  of  oyster  sandwich  is  made 
with  fried  oysters.  Allow  a large 
oyster  to  each  sandwich.  Cut  thin 
slices  of  bread  as  nearly  as  possible 
the  shape  of  the  oyster,  and  when 
buttered  place  between  them  the  oys- 
ters delicately  browned.  Mayonnaise 
dressing,  either  bought  or  of  home 
manufacture,  is  invaluable  in  the 
preparation  of  sandwiches.  With  its 
aid  almost  any  scraps  of  fish  or  meat 
can  be  made  edible,  and  it  is  a good 
plan  to  make  it  in  quantities,  as  it  will 
keep  a long  time  in  a cold  place. 

Oyster  Sauce.  — Boil  two  dozen  oys- 
ters in  their  own  liquor  for  two  or  three 


144 


[See  p.  124 

SALMON  TROUT  LARDED  AND  STUFFED 


[See  p.  113 

CODFISH  A LA  BONNE  FEMME 


FRESH  MACKEREL  STUFFED  AND  BAKED 


[See  p.  120 


Oyster  Sausages 


FISH 


Oysters,  Spindled 


minutes,  drain,  put  the  liquor  with  a 
cupful  of  fresh  milk  into  a saucepan, 
and  set  back  on  the  fire  ; rub  I oz.  of 
butter  and  2 ozs.  of  flour  together,  and 
stir  into  the  boiling  sauce.  Chop  the 
oysters,  and  add  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Take  from  the  fire  and  serve. 

Oyster  Sausages. — Take  x/z  lb.  of 
lean  mutton,  Y\  lb.  of  beef  suet,  two- 
score  of  oysters,  scalded,  and  the  beards 
taken  off.  Chop  all  together,  and  add 
some  bread-crumbs  and  yolks  of  eggs 
to  bind  the  materials  together.  Sea- 
son well  with  salt,  white  pepper,  and 
mace.  Make  this  composition  into 
the  form  of  sausages,  and  fry  them 
lightly  in  the  usual  way. 

Oysters,  Scalloped. — Wash  the  oys- 
ters well,  and  put  them  on  the  grid 
iron.  As  soon  as  they  open,  take 
from  the  fire,  and  throw  away  the  flat 
shell,  leaving  them  in  the  deep  one, 
but  detaching  them  from  it.  Sprinkle 
on  each  oyster  some  parsley  chopped 
fine,  salt,  white  pepper,  and  bread- 
crumbs ; then  put  on  each  a little  piece 
of  butter ; put  them  into  the  oven  for 
seven  or  eight  minutes ; take  off,  add 
a few  drops  of  meat  gravy  to  each, 
put  back  into  the  oven  for  two  or  three 
minutes,  and  serve  warm.  They 
may  be  scalloped  in  a scallop-shell, 
putting  three  or  four  oysters  on  each 
shell,  with  the  same  seasonings  as 
above. 

Another  way  : — Open  them  when 
raw,  and  then  place  them  on  the 
shells  as  above.  For  about  a quart 
of  oysters,  when  opened,  melt  about 
2 ozs.  of  butter  in  a pan,  and  mix  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour  with  it,  stir 
until  it  turns  rather  brown ; then  add  a 
gill  of  meat  gravy  and  the  juice  of  the 
oysters,  well  strained,  with  pepper 
and  salt,  stir  now  and  then,  and  boil 
for  ten  minutes.  Put  a little  of  this 
sauce  on  each  shell,  dust  them  with 
bread  or  cracker  crumbs,  add  a piece 
of  butter  on  each  shell  also,  and  put 
into  a warm  oven  for  twelve  minutes. 
Take  off  and  serve  warm. 

The  term  scalloped  is  also  frequently 
applied  to  all  baked  oysters,  and  the 
to 


following  way  of  preparing  them  is 
delicious  : Have  ready  your  baking- 
dish,  a large  plate  of  grated  or  finely 
crumbled  stale  bread,  a generous  pro- 
vision of  butter,  pepper,  and  salt. 
Proceed  then  as  follows : Cover  the 
bottom  of  the  dish  with  a layer  of  fresh 
oysters,  drained  from  their  liquor,  dot 
thickly  all  over  with  small  bits  of  but- 
ter, then  cover  with  bread-crumbs,  and 
sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt.  Con- 
tinue to  add  the  component  parts  in 
this  order  until  the  dish  is  full,  taking 
care  that  the  bread  and  butter  form  a 
top  layer,  which,  when  nicely  browned 
in  a properly  heated  oven,  gives  a most 
inviting  appearance  to  the  whole. 
This  dish  is  frequently  spoiled  by  too 
large  a proportion  of  bread. 

Oyster  Soup. — To  make  a plain 
oyster  soup,  pour  one  quart  of  cold 
water  over  one  quart  of  oysters,  rinse 
out  the  oysters,  strain  the  water  into  a 
kettle,  and  set  it  over  the  fire.  When 
it  boils,  stir  in  half  a teaspoonful  of 
salt,  l/\  lb.  of  butter,  and  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  flour  mixed  smoothly  into  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  milk ; as  soon  as  it 
boils  add  the  oysters,  and  as  soon  as 
it  boils  again  pour  off  into  a tureen. 
When  more  milk  is  liked,  follow  the 
directions  as  given  above,  using  one 
pint  instead  of  one  quart  of  water; 
when  the  soup  is  ready  to  remove  from 
the  fire,  have  one  pint  of  boiling  milk 
in  the  tureen,  and  pour  the  soup  to  it. 
Oysters  should  never  be  boiled  in  milk. 
When  milk  is  used  in  any  quantity  it 
must  be  added  after  the  soup  is  made. 

Oysters,  Spindled.  — Use  large 
oysters.  Cut  thin  slices  of  bacon 
into  three  equal  pieces.  String  the 
oysters  and  bacon  on  skewers,  alter- 
nating them  and  taking  care  to  run 
the  skewers  through  the  hard  part 
of  the  oyster.  Take  a narrow  pan 
and  rest  the  ends  of  the  skewers  on 
the  sides,  letting  the  oysters  hang 
down  but  not  touching  the  bottom  of 
the  pan.  Have  a little  space  be- 
tween skewers  so  that  the  oysters  will 
cook  evenly.  Place  the  pan  in  a hot 
oven  and  bake  from  six  to  eight  min- 


Oysters,  Stewed 


FISH 


Oysters  au  Supreme 


utes.  Toast  slices  of  bread,  and  cut 
them  into  long  strips  and  butter 
them.  Arrange  on  a hot  platter. 
When  the  oysters  are  done,  place  a 
skewer  with  its  contents  on  each 
strip  of  toast.  Pour  over  the  whole 
the  juices  which  have  run  into  the 
pan.  Serve  immediately. 

Oysters,  Stewed. — Carefully  drain 
the  juice  from  one  quart  of  oysters, 
removing  them  from  the  liquor  with 
a spoon,  not  piercing  with  a fork, 
measure  the  juice,  and  if  not  half  a 
pint  in  quantity  add  water  enough  to 
fill  the  measure.  Place  the  liquor 
over  the  fire  in  a porcelain  stewpan, 
add  a piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a wal- 
nut. When  it  comes  to  a boil,  care- 
fully remove  all  scum  that  may  arise. 
Put  in  the  oysters,  and  let  them  heat 
through,  not  cooking  enough  to  shrivel 
them  ; add  a little  more  than  half  a pint 
of  cream,  let  it  all  scald  through  again, 
remove  from  the  stove,  and  season  to 
suit  the  taste.  New  milk  will  do  in- 
stead of  cream,  and  the  stove  should 
be  very  hot,  so  as  to  cook  them  quickly. 

Oysters,  Stewed  Dry. — Cut  slices 
of  breakfast  bacon  into  narrow  strips, 
and  the  strips  into  bits  about  an  inch 
long ; place  them  in  a shallow  fry- 
ing-pan, and  let  them  cook  slowly 
to  a crisp  brown ; then  turn  in  a pint 
of  oysters  drained  free  from  all  liquor. 
After  the  oysters  have  been  over  the 
fire  a minute  or  two,  stir  them  gently. 
Cook  about  five  minutes,  and  serve 
on  a very  hot  platter  garnished  with 
toasted  crackers.  The  oysters  must 
be  put  to  drain  half  an  hour  before 
they  are  needed,  for  too  much  liquor 
will  stew  out. 

Oysters,  Stuffed. — Drain  the  liquid 
from  one  quart  of  nice,  fat  oysters ; 
plunge  them  one  minute  in  boiling 
water,  and  drain  well  over  a clean 
napkin.  Remove  the  tendons,  which 
are  indigestible,  trim  the  oysters 
neatly,  and  cool  them  thoroughly. 
Sprinkle  over  one  salt-spoonful  of 
pepper,  then  prepare  fine  herbs  as 
follows ; Peel,  wash,  and  drain  in  a 


napkin  % lb.  of  fresh  mushrooms ; 
chop  them,  put  in  a small  saucepan 
one  levelled  table-spoonful  of  finely 
chopped  shallots  or  white  onions, 
and  one  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Cook  three  minutes,  stirring  all  the 
time ; it  must  not  get  brown.  Add 
the  mushrooms  and  one  levelled  table- 
spoonful of  parsley,  chopped ; cook 
three  minutes  more.  Sprinkle  over 
one  teaspoonful  of  sifted  flour;  cook 
two  minutes  more;  add  half  a gill  of 
broth,  or  a quarter  of  a teaspoonful 
of  beef  extract  diluted  in  half  a gill 
of  warm  water.  Cook  slowly  eight 
minutes ; it  must  be  quite  thick. 
Remove  from  the  fire  and  let  it  cool. 
Split  the  oysters  in  the  side,  but  do  not 
separate  them.  Divide  the  fine  herbs 
in  portions  equal  to  the  number  of 
oysters,  then  put  a layer  in  each, 
and  close  them  gently. 

Cut  as  many  thin,  square  slices  of 
bacon  as  there  are  oysters,  fry  them 
over  a slow  fire  for  one  minute  on 
each  side,  cool  them  off,  and  on  a 
skewer  put  one  of  the  slices  of  bacon, 
then  one  oyster,  repeating  the  same 
thing  until  the  skewer  is  full.  Put 
over  the  broiler,  two  minutes  for  each 
side.  While  broiling,  have  a table- 
spoonful of  melted  butter  and  baste 
the  oysters ; serve  very  hot.  A 
watercress-salad  with  French  dressing 
and  some  hard-boiled  eggs  chopped 
and  sprinkled  over  it  would  com- 
plete the  dish. 

Oysters  au  Supreme,  Scalloped. — 

Make  first  of  all  a white  sauce  by 
cooking  together  a heaping  teaspoon- 
ful each  of  butter  and  flour,  and  add- 
ing to  them  slowly  a pint  of  cream 
in  which  a bit  of  soda  the  size  of  a 
pea  has  been  dissolved.  Let  this 
sauce  cool  before  making  the  scallop. 
Drain  all  the  liquor  from  your  oys- 
ters, and  put  a layer  of  them  in  the 
bottom  of  a buttered  pudding-dish. 
Sprinkle  with  dry  cracker  (not  bread) 
crumbs,  bits  of  butter,  minced  parsley, 
and  a tiny  pinch  of  celery-salt  and 
white  pepper.  Now  pour  over  all 
some  of  the  cream  sauce.  Put  in 
another  layer  of  oysters,  then  more 


146 


Prawns  in  Shells 


FISH 


Flavoring 


seasoned  crumbs  and  sauce,  until 
the  dish  is  full.  The  sauce  must 
nearly  cover  the  oysters.  Over  the  top 
sprinkle  crumbs  and  dot  with  pieces 
of  butter.  Cook  in  a hot  oven  until 
light  brown  in  color,  and  serve  at  once. 

Prawns  in  Shells. — Pick  the  shells 
from  five  dozen  prawns ; mix  with 
one-quarter  the  quantity  of  stewed 
mushrooms,  and  four  table-spoonfuls 
of  white  sauce.  Fill  buttered  shells 
with  the  mixture ; spread  over  with 
grated  bread-crumbs  which  have  been 
fried  in  butter.  Arrange  the  shells  in 
a baking-pan  and  set  in  the  oven  until 
thoroughly  heated,  and  serve. 

Scallops  and  Scrambled  Eggs. — 

Simmer  a pint  of  scallops  in  salted 
water  for  ten  minutes,  turn  into  a 
colander,  and  drench  quickly  with 
cold  water;  break  each  scallop  into 
halves,  put  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter  in  a hot  frying-pan,  add  the 
scallops,  toss  them  around  until  they 
show  color,  add  half  a dozen  eggs, 
stir  until  cooked,  and  serve  on  hot 
squares  of  well-buttered  toast,  scatter- 
ing chopped  parsley  just  before  serving. 

Shrimps,  Canned  (in  a chafing- 
dish).  — Remove  the  shrimps  from 
the  can  several  hours  before  you  are 
ready  for  them.  Cook  together  in 
your  chafing  - dish  a table  - spoonful 
of  butter  and  a scant  one  of  flour, 
mixed  with  a teaspoonful  of  dry 
curry  powder.  When  these  are  thor- 
oughly blended  and  begin  to  bubble, 
add  a cupful  of  boiling  water  and 
one  of  strained  tomato-juice ; pepper 
and  salt  to  taste.  Stir  continually 
until  the  sauce  is  thick,  then  put  in 
the  shrimps,  and  cook  for  two  min- 
utes longer.  This  is  a delicious  and 
savory  dish  served  by  itself  or  with 
boiled  rice. 


Shrimps  in  Jelly. — A box  of  shrimps 
is  turned  out  into  ice -water  for  an 
hour  to  remove  their  fishy  taste ; 
meanwhile  a lemon  jelly  is  made 
without  the  usual  sweetening,  by 
dissolving  half  a box  of  powdered 
gelatine  in  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
water,  adding  to  it  half  a pint  of 
boiling  water  and  the  juice  of  two 
lemons,  with  a very  little  salt.  This 
is  strained,  turned  into  a ring  mould, 
half  the  box  of  shrimps  are  dropped 
in,  and  all  put  on  ice.  When  firm, 
the  mould  is  held  over  boiling  water 
for  a moment  to  loosen  the  jelly, 
and  then  turned  out  on  a round  plat- 
ter on  lettuce,  and  the  rest  of  the 
shrimps  are  piled  in  the  middle,  with 
small  hearts  of  the  lettuce.  Mayon- 
naise is  to  be  passed  with  the  salad. 
The  effect  of  the  transparent  jelly 
with  the  coral  - colored  shrimps  is 
extremely  pretty. 

Shrimp  or  Prawn  Patties.  — 

Shrimps  and  prawns  when  fresh 
boiled  are  firm  and  stiff ; when  stale, 
they  are  limp  and  clammy  to  the 
touch.  Prepare  the  shrimp  by  pick- 
ing ; stew  the  shells  for  gravy,  flavor- 
ing with  cayenne  and  mace,  then 
slightly  chop  the  shrimp  and  heat 
them  in  the  gravy;  thicken  with 
cream,  or  flour  and  butter.  Bake  in 
patty -pans  lined  with  a rich,  light 
paste. 

Shrimps,  Stuffed.  — Peel  off  the 
shells  of  one  pint  of  large  shrimps, 
put  them  in  a bowl  of  ice-water  for 
thirty  minutes,  wipe  them  dry  with 
a clean  napkin,  and  split  them  in 
two,  lengthwise,  without  separating 
them.  Put  in  the  centre  of  each 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  but- 
ter, close  them  gently,  and  arrange 
them  in  a small  glass  dish  with  a 
few  parsley  leaves. 


Flannel  Cakes.  See  Bread. 

Flavoring. — In  France  the  standard 
of  taste  is  uniform,  or  nearly  so. 


and  the  tradition  of  the  kitchen 
may  be  trusted  even  where  there 
is  no  chef  to  direct.  In  America 
tastes  differ  widely,  and  there  is  no 


147 


Floatiag  Island  FORCE-MEATS,  ETC.  Cold  Pasties 


accepted  standard.  The  questions 
each  household  must  settle  for  itself 
are,  for  instance,  such  as  whether 
much  pepper,  curry  powder,  mulli- 
gatawny paste  are  to  be  used  in 
the  dishes  of  which  they  are  ingre- 
dients. Whether  vinegar  and  lemon- 
juice  are  to  be  used  sparingly  or 
lavishly.  Whether  spices  and  gro- 
cer's sauces  are  to  be  used  at  all. 
Whether  sugar  is  to  be  put  into 
puddings,  etc.,  in  such  quantities 
as  to  satisfy  those  who  love  sweet 
dishes  of  the  sweetest,  or  otherwise. 
Whether  wine  or  any  spirituous  liq- 
uors are  to  be  used  at  all.  Fine  herbs, 
mint,  fennel,  sage,  sorrel,  cinnamon, 
vanilla,  lemon -peel,  wines,  liqueurs 
are  necessary  for  certain  dishes ; 
mushrooms,  truffles,  onions  to  others. 
The  proper  blending  and  harmonizing 
of  flavors  show  the  skill  of  the  cook, 
but  it  is  also  necessary  that  the  cook's 


palate  should  be  in  accord  with  that 
of  the  guests.  See  also  Liqueurs. 

Floating  Island.  See  Custards. 

Floral  Creams.  See  Creams. 

Flounders. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  flounders  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Flounders  a la  Normandie. 

See  Fish. 

Fillets  of. 

Fillets  of  Stuffed. 

..  Parisian  Style. 

Paupiettes  of. 

Flummery.  See  Jellies. 

Fondant.  See  Candy. 

Fondue,  Cheese.  See  Cheese. 


FORCE-MEATS  AND  STUFFINGS 


Almond  Force-meat. — Beat  up  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs  with  a quarter  of 
a pint  of  good  cream,  and  flavor  with 
a little  nutmeg.  Blanch  and  pound 
in  a mortar  3 ozs.  of  sweet  almonds, 
using  white  of  egg  to  moisten.  Add 
these,  with  Y\  lb.  of  light  bread-crumbs 
and  3 ozs.  of  butter,  broken  into  small 
bits,  to  the  egg  mixture.  Stir  in,  last- 
ly, the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a 
solid  froth,  and  fill  either  capon  or 
turkey. 

Beef,  Force-meat  of. — Take  cold 
mashed  potato,  some  slices  of  beef, 
minced  fine,  a few  savory  herbs,  pep- 
per and  salt.  Mix  these  with  two  eggs 
to  a paste  ; make  into  balls  ; fry  in  but- 
ter a rich  brown.  Garnish  with  fried 
parsley. 

Chestnut  Force-meat. — Roast  and 
peel  a dozen  large  chestnuts ; boil  them 
for  about  twenty  minutes  in  some 
strong  veal  gravy;  drain,  and,  when 
cold,  put  them  into  a mortar ; blanch 


and  mince  them  with  the  liver  of  the 
fowl,  a teaspoonful  of  grated  ham,  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  a teaspoonful  of  chopped 
onions,  a small  pinch  of  grated  lem- 
on-rind, three  grains  of  cayenne,  two 
table  - spoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs,  a 
piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a walnut,  and 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Pound  the 
dry  ingredients  in  a mortar,  and  mois- 
ten them  with  the  butter  and  eggs. 
This  force-meat  is  excellent  for  a large 
fowl.  Time  to  prepare,  about  twenty 
minutes. 

Cold  Pasties,  Force-meat  for. — For 

savory  pasties,  to  be  eaten  cold,  use  a 
force-meat  of  fowl — an  old  fowl  will 
answer  this  purpose.  Strip  off  the 
skin,  and  clear  the  flesh  from  the 
bones ; pound  the  flesh  in  a mortar, 
soak  some  white  bread  in  milk,  squeeze 
it  dry,  and  rub  with  it  3 ozs.  of  butter 
in  the  proportion  of  r/z  lb.  of  bread  to 
this  quantity;  add  the  meat,  with  a 
flavoring  of  nutmeg  and  salt.  Bind 


Cream  Force-meat  FORCE-MEATS,  ETC 


Gratin 


with  four  yolks  of  eggs,  and  make  up 
into  balls  for  pasties  or  soups.  A 
little  ham,  cut  into  thin  slices  and 
rolled  round  the  balls  separately,  is 
a great  improvement  to  a white-meat 
pasty.  For  game  or  beef  pasties  use 
pork,  game,  or  liver.  If  parsley  is 
liked,  some  may  be  minced  and 
pounded  with  the  meat. 

Cream  Force-meat.  See  Timbales. 

Cream  Stuffing  (for  chicken). — Pour 
a little  cream  over  a cupful  of  finely 
grated  bread-crumbs.  Let  them  soak 
for  half  an  hour.  Shred  finely  4 ozs. 
of  suet,  a teaspoonful  of  scalded  pars- 
ley, and  four  or  five  button  - mush- 
rooms cut  small  and  fried.  Mix  these 
well  together  with  a little  pepper  and 
salt,  and  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs. 
Stuff  the  fowl  with  the  mixture. 

Curry  Force-meat  Balls. — Pound 
together  bread  - crumbs,  hard  - boiled 
yolks  of  eggs,  a small  quantity  of 
butter,  and  a seasoning  of  curry 
powder  and  salt.  Make  into  small 
balls.  Time  to  fry,  two  or  three 
minutes. 

Egg  Force-meat  Balls. — Pound  the 
yolks  of  half  a dozen  hard  - boiled 
eggs  with  some  chopped  parsley,  a 
teaspoonful  of  flour,  a little  pepper, 
salt,  and  cayenne.  Moisten  with  egg 
and  make  the  paste  into  small  balls. 
Boil  for  two  minutes  before  using 
in  soup  or  other  dishes. 

Fish,  Force-meat  of. — Clear  away 
the  skin  and  bone  from  any  solid  fish  ; 
mince  1 lb.  of  the  flesh  very  fine. 
Stew  an  onion  in  butter,  and  when 
tender  pound  it  in  a mortar  with  4 
ozs.  of  butter,  broken  into  bits.  Add 
6 ozs.  of  bread,  previously  soaked  ill 
milk  and  squeezed  dry,  a couple  of 
eggs,  which  should  be  well  beaten, 
pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg ; and  when 
all  is  well  mixed,  stir  in  the  fish,  and 
make  up  into  balls  to  be  fried  or  boiled. 
Previous  to  mixing  the  fish  with  the 
other  ingredients  it  should  be  passed 
through  a wire  sieve. 


Fish  Soups,  Force-meat  Balls 
for  (or  for  garnishing  fish). — Beat 
the  flesh  and  soft  parts  of  a middling 
lobster,  half  an  anchovj”,  a large 
piece  of  boiled  celery,  the  yolk  of  a 
hard-boiled  egg,  a little  flavoring  of 
cayenne,  mace,  salt,  and  white  pepper, 
with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  bread- 
crumbs, one  table-spoonful  of  oyster 
liquor,  2 ozs.  of  butter,  warmed,  and 
two  eggs,  very  well  beaten ; make  into 
balls,  and  fry  to  a fine  brown  in  hot 
lard. 

Game,  Force-meat  for. — Take  the 
livers  of  the  game  and  pound  them 
with  half  their  weight  of  beef  suet 
and  good,  fat  bacon  mixed  together; 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  pow- 
dered cloves.  Use  a little  of  the 
meat  of  game  if  enough  livers  cannot 
be  obtained ; moisten  with  cream, 
and  bind  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs. 
If  the  force-meat  be  required  stiff, 
stew  over  a gentle  fire,  keeping  it 
constantly  stirred  until  the  proper 
consistency  is  gained.  Time  to  stew, 
about  ten  or  twelve  minutes. 

Game,  Force-meat  of. — Clear  the 
meat  from  the  bones  and  mince  it 
with  Y\  lb.  of  fat  bacon  to  each 
pound  of  game.  Flavor  with  shallot, 
capers,  lemon-peel,  and  a very  few 
leaves  of  tarragon,  all  of  which 
should  be  minced  very  fine.  Soak 
some  bread,  and  press  out  all  the 
moisture ; add  it,  with  the  yolks  of 
three  eggs.  If  the  bacon  be  salt,  be 
careful  not  to  over-salt  the  force- 
meat ; pepper  to  taste,  and  stir  in  the 
frothed  whites  of  eggs  before  using. 

Gratin. — Gratin  is  a French  force- 
meat. It  may  be  made  either  of  the 
lean  part  of  veal  or  the  breast  and 
wings  of  a fowl.  Take  equal  parts  of 
veal  and  cooked  liver,  cut  them  into 
small  pieces,  and  put  them  in  a sauce- 
pan with  a little  salt  and  pepper  and 
a table  - spoonful  of  savory  herbs, 
powdered.  Fry  them  in  a little  butter 
for  ten  minutes,  then  mince  finely, 
and  pound  the  meat  until  perfectly 
smooth  with  butter.  Pound  all  thor- 


149 


Hare 


FORCE-MEATS,  ETC.  Mushroom  Stuffing 


oughly,  and,  while  pounding,  add 
three  raw  eggs  at  different  times. 
Make  up  a small  ball  of  the  force- 
meat and  throw  it  into  boiling  water, 
to  try  whether  it  is  light  and  properly 
seasoned.  If  it  be  too  firm,  add  a 
little  water;  if  too  soft,  another  egg. 

Hare,  Force-meat  for. — Parboil  the 
liver  of  the  hare,  if  sound,  and  mince 
it  finely ; also  chop  % lb.  of  suet  and 
rather  less  of  lean  bacon,  which 
should  be  shred  fine,  that  the  force- 
meat may  not  require  to  be  pounded 
in  a mortar.  Mix  these  ingredients 
together,  and  add  6 ozs.  of  bread- 
crumbs, a dessert-spoonful  of  parsley, 
a little  thyme  and  marjoram  mixed, 
salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Bind  with 
two  or  three  yolks  of  eggs,  which 
must  be  well  beaten  before  being 
used.  Stuff  the  inside  of  the  hare, 
and  make  balls  to  be  fried  a nice 
brown. 

Liver,  Force-meat  of.  — To  i lb.  of 

calf's  liver  allow  % lb.  of  fat  bacon; 
chop  them  both  separately.  Stew 
in  butter,  but  do  not  brown,  a shallot, 
an  onion,  and,  if  liked,  a small  clove 
of  garlic.  Cover  the  stewpan  until 
tender.  Press  out  the  moisture  from 
some  bread  which  has  been  soaked 
in  water,  and  add  it  to  the  butter  in  the 
pan;  stir  it  to  a stiff  paste,  adding 
more  butter  if  required.  Remove 
the  paste  to  a mortar,  and  pound  it 
with  the  chopped  liver,  etc.,  a couple 
of  eggs  beaten  without  the  whites, 
a small  quantity  of  allspice  or  nut- 
meg, pepper  and  salt.  When  well 
pounded  together,  pass  the  force- 
meat through  a wire  sieve. 

Meat  Pies  or  Ragouts,  Force-meat 
for. — Take  % lb.  of  ham,  the  same 
of  cold  veal  and  of  beef  suet,  a chive 
or  two,  some  parsley,  cayenne,  salt, 
and  a very  little  lemon  - peel , with 
half  a pint  of  bread-crumbs.  Pound 
all  together  in  a mortar,  previously 
chopping  the  meat.  Form  the  force- 
meat into  a mass  with  two  raw  eggs. 
The  flavor  may  be  varied  according 
to  taste ; an  anchovy  or  oysters  may 


be  added,  if  liked.  Time,  about  one 
hour  to  prepare. 

Mushroom,  Force-meat  of.  — Pro- 
cure 4 ozs.  of  young  mushrooms. 
Peel  them,  cut  off  the  stems,  and  re- 
move the  brown  part.  Dissolve  2 ozs. 
of  butter  in  a stewpan,  and  let  them 
simmer  very  gently  over  a slow  fire, 
with  a slight  flavoring  of  mace  and 
cayenne.  Spread  them  over  a dish, 
placed  in  a slanting  position  to  drain 
away  the  moisture.  When  cold, 
mince  them,  and  add  4 ozs.  of  fine 
bread-crumbs,  a small  seasoning  of 
salt,  cayenne,  mace,  and  nutmeg,  a 
piece  of  butter,  and  the  yolks  of  a 
couple  of  eggs  to  bind.  Throw  in  as 
much  of  the  mushroom  gravy  as  will 
make  the  force-meat  of  the  proper  con- 
sistency. It  will  be  greatly  improved 
if  the  whole  mixture  be  pounded  in  a 
mortar.  Make  into*balls,  poach,  and 
throw  into  soup ; or  fry,  and  serve 
round  a dish  of  roast  fowls  or  minced 
veal.  It  is  also  good  as  a stuffing  for 
boiled  fowls,  partridges,  etc.  Time 
to  stew  in  butter,  seven  minutes;  to 
poach  balls,  six  minutes;  to  fry,  six 
or  seven  minutes. 

Mushroom  Stuffing  (for  turkey). — 
Take  six  or  eight  small  mushrooms, 
peel  them,  put  them  into  a saucepan 
with  a slice  of  fresh  butter,  and  let 
them  simmer  gently  for  seven  or  eight 
minutes.  Drain  the  liquor  from  them 
and  let  them  cool ; then  mince  them, 
and  mix  them  with  % lb.  of  finely 
grated  bread-crumbs.  Add  a slight 
seasoning  of  salt,  cayenne,  grated 
nutmeg,  and  grated  lemon-rind,  but 
be  careful  that  the  mushroom  flavor 
is  not  overpowered.  Work  1 oz.  of 
fresh  butter  into  the  force-meat,  bind 
it  together  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg, 
and  add  as  much  of  the  butter  in 
which  the  mushrooms  were  stewed  as 
it  will  take  without  being  made  too 
moist.  Pound  the  mixture  thorough- 
ly, and  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  Fill 
the  turkey  with  it,  boil  or  roast  it, 
and  send  mushroom  sauce  to  table 
with  it.  Time,  one  hour  to  prepare 
the  force-meat. 


150 


Onion  Stuffing  FORCE-MEATS,  ETC.  Suet  Force-meat 


Onion  Stuffing  (for  chicken). — Beat 
the  yolk  of  an  egg  thoroughly,  and 
mix  with  it  a table-spoonful  of  hot 
vinegar,  half  a salt-spoonful  of  pow- 
dered thyme,  and  as  much  finely 
minced  parsley  as  will  make  it  quite 
thick.  Boil  a large  Spanish  onion  in 
three  or  four  waters  until  it  is  tender, 
press  it  well,  mince  it  finely,  and  mix 
it  with  the  vinegar.  Add  2 ozs.  of 
ham  cut  up  into  small  pieces,  and 
a little  pepper  and  salt.  A chicken 
which  has  been  filled  with  this  stuffing 
should  be  braised  and  served  with 
white  sauce. 

Oysters,  Force-meat  of. — Get  very 
fresh  oysters,  and  cut  them  into  quar- 
ters. Grate  bread  enough  to  fill  half  a 
pint,  and  I ozs.  of  finely  shred  suet 
or  butter,  which  should  be  broken  into 
bits.  Mix  all  these  ingredients  to- 
gether with  a good  flavoring  of  herbs, 
a seasoning  of  salt,  pepper,  and  grated 
nutmeg.  Bind  with  two  well-beaten 
eggs.  This  force-meat  is  for  boiled 
or  roast  turkey.  It  may  be  made 
also  into  balls  and  used  as  a gar- 
nish. 

Passover  Balls  (for  soup). — Chop 
an  onion  and  */z  lb.  of  suet  very  finely, 
stew  them  together  until  the  suet  is 
melted,  then  pour  it  hot  upon  eight 
spoonfuls  of  biscuit  flour ; mix  it  well 
together,  add  a little  salt,  a little 
grated  nutmeg,  lemon -peel  and  gin- 
ger, and  six  eggs.  Put  the  balls  into 
the  soup  when  it  boils,  and  boil  them 
for  a quarter  of  an  hour.  The  quan- 
tity of  eggs  and  flour  may  appear 
disproportioned,  but  the  flour  em- 
ployed is  of  a peculiar  kind  used  for 
the  purpose  in  Jewish  families.  Noth- 
ing can  exceed  the  excellence  of 
the  balls  made  after  this  recipe ; 
they  are  applicable  to  any  kind  of 
soups. 

Quenelles  are  force-meats  made  into 
small  balls,  rolls,  or  fancy  shapes, 
rolled  in  flour  and  poached. 

Rabbit,  Force-meat  for. 

See  Hare  Force-meat. 


Sage  and  Onion  Stuffing  (for  geese, 
pork,  and  ducks). — Skin  ten  or  twelve 
onions,  and  throw  them  into  cold  wa- 
ter. When  all  are  peeled,  put  them 
with  six  or  eight  green  sage  leaves 
into  a saucepan  of  boiling  water  and 
let  them  boil  till  tender.  Pour  off  the 
water,  mince  the  onions  and  sage 
finely,  and  beat  them  well  with  a piece 
of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg  and  a lit- 
tle pepper  and  salt.  Heat  the  onions 
again  till  the  butter  is  dissolved,  and 
serve  very  hot.  If  dried  sage  is 
used,  it  must  be  powdered  and  mix- 
ed with  the  onions  after  they  are 
boiled.  Time,  about  an  hour  and  a 
half. 

Sage,  Onion,  and  Apple  Stuffing 

(for  geese,  pork,  and  ducks).  — Put 
four  apples,  four  onions,  four  sage 
leaves,  and  four  lemon- thyme  leaves 
into  a saucepan  with  as  much  water 
as  will  cover  them.  Let  them  sim- 
mer till  tender,  then  pour  off  the 
water  and  rub  them  through  a sieve. 
Season  the  pulp  with  pepper  and  salt, 
mix  with  it  as  much  mashed  potato 
as  will  make  it  dry  and  smooth, 
and  the  stuffing  will  be  ready  for 
use.  If  liked,  a spoonful  of  boiled 
rice  may  be  mixed  with  the  sage 
and  onions  instead  of  the  pota- 
toes. 

Shrimp,  Force-meat  of. — Clear  a 
pint  of  shrimps  from  their  shells 
and  chop  them  finely.  Mix  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  bread-crumbs.  Sea- 
son with  salt,  pepper,  and  a small 
quantity  of  mace.  Pound  into  a 
smooth  paste,  with  2 or  3 ozs.  of  butter. 
Bind  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg.  Use 
this  force  - meat  to  stuff  any  fresh- 
water fish. 

Suet  Force-meat  Balls. — Chop  % 
lb.  of  beef  suet,  a little  lemon-peel,  and 
parsley.  Mix  with  a basin  of  bread- 
crumbs, and  flavor  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  nutmeg.  Moisten  with  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs,  roll  in  flour,  and  make 
up  into  small  balls.  Bake  in  a hot 
oven  till  crisp.  This  recipe  will  do 
for  fowls.  The  addition  of  a little 


151 


Turkey  Force-meat  FORCE-MEATS,  ETC.  Veal  Force-meat 


ham,  chopped  or  pounded,  will  be 
an  improvement. 

Turkey,  Roast,  Force-meat  for. — 

Take  of  lean  veal,  or  the  flesh  of  an 
old  fowl,  2 ozs. ; free  it  from  skin  and 
sinew.  Pound  it  in  a mortar,  with 
2 ozs.  of  shred  suet,  the  same  of  bread- 
crumbs, a dessert-spoonful  of  minced 
parsley,  a large  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
thyme,  an  onion,  and  the  grated  rind 
of  half  a lemon.  Flavor  delicately 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  pound  and 
bind  together  with  two  beaten  eggs. 
A richer  and  better  force  - meat  is 
made  by  the  addition  of  ham,  tongue, 
anchovy,  or  a dozen  minced  oysters. 
Pork  sausage-meat  is  sometimes  used 
to  stuff  the  crop. 

Turtle  Soup,  Force-meat  for. — A 

pound  of  fine,  fresh  suet,  i lb.  of 
ready-dressed  veal  or  chicken,  chopped 
fine,  crumbs  of  bread,  a little  shallot 
or  onion,  salt,  white  pepper,  nutmeg, 
mace,  pennyroyal,  parsley,  and  lemon- 
thyme,  finely  shred ; beat  as  many 
eggs,  the  yolks  and  whites  separately, 
as  will  make  the  above  ingredients 
into  a moist  paste ; roll  into  small 
balls  and  boil  them  in  fresh  lard, 
putting  them  in  just  as  it  boils  up. 
When  of  a light  brown,  take  them 
out  and  drain  them  before  the  fire. 
If  the  suet  be  moist  or  stale,  a great 
many  more  eggs  will  be  necessary. 
Balls  made  this  way  are  remark- 
ably light  ; but  for  persons  who 
cannot  digest  rich  food  they  may  be 
prepared  with  less  suet  and  eggs. 

Udder  Force-meat. — In  France 
calf’s  udder  is  used  instead  of  butter. 
It  is  first  boiled,  then  pounded  and 
pressed  through  a fine  sieve. 

Veal  Curry,  Force  meat  Balls  for. 

— Boil  an  egg  hard,  pound  the  yolk 
in  a mortar,  mix  with  it  some  finely 
grated  bread-crumbs,  a pinch  of  salt, 
and  a seasoning  of  curry  powder  or 
paste.  Rub  a small  slice  of  fresh 
butter  into  the  mixture,  form  it  into 
balls  the  size  of  small  marbles,  throw 
them  into  fast  - boiling  water  for  a 


couple  of  minutes,  and  they  will  be 
ready  for  use. 

Veal  Force-meat. — No.  i.  Shred 
finely  Yz  lb.  of  suet,  free  from  skin  and 
fibre.  Mix  with  it  lb.  of  bread- 
crumbs cribbled  through  a colander, 
the  rind  of  half  a small  lemon,  grated, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a tea- 
spoonful of  white  pepper,  a table- 
spoonful of  chopped  parsley,  a tea- 
spoonful of  thyme,  two  small  blades 
of  mace,  pounded.  Bind  the  mixture 
together  with  yolk  of  egg,  to  which 
a little  milk  may  be  added  when 
economy  is  a consideration. — No.  2. 
Chop  finely  % lb.  of  beef  suet  with 
2 ozs.  of  lean,  raw  ham,  and  5 ozs. 
of  bread-crumbs  rubbed  through  a 
colander.  Add  a piece  of  thin  lemon- 
rind  about  the  size  of  a thumb-nail, 
a teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
a teaspoonful  of  mixed  sweet  herbs,  if 
fresh  (if  very  dry,  two  teaspoonfuls), 
and  half  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
little  cayenne  or  white  pepper.  Bind 
the  mixture  together  with  two  whole 
eggs. — No.  3.  Take  Yz  lb.  of  veal  and 
Ya  lb.  of  fat  bacon.  Cut  these  into 
strips  and  scrape  them  with  the  back 
of  a knife,  then  pound  them  well  in  a 
mortar  and  pass  the  preparation 
through  a sieve.  Mix  with  it  the 
crumb  of  half  a roll,  half  a drachm  of 
powdered  mace,  the  same  quantity 
of  grated  nutmeg,  a dessert-spoonful 
of  chopped  onions,  parsley,  and 
mushrooms,  with  a little  pepper  and 
salt.  Mix  these  ingredients  thorough- 
ly, continually  pounding  them  in  the 
mortar ; bind  them  together  with  two 
well-beaten  eggs,  and  poach  a small 
quantity  in  boiling  water.  When  the 
preparation  is  firm,  light,  and  delicate- 
ly flavored,  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 
This  force-meat  may  be  used  for  pies, 
balls,  etc.  When  force-meat  is  to  be 
served  in  the  form  of  balls,  mould  it 
to  the  size  and  shape  of  large  mar- 
bles, put  these  into  hot  fat  over  the 
fire,  and  turn  them  about  for  a few 
minutes  till  they  are  lightly  browned. 
Place  them  on  a sheet  of  blotting-pa- 
per before  the  fire  to  drain  off  the  fat. 
When  dry  they  are  ready  for  serving. 


152 


Forfarshire  Tea  Buns  FRITTERS 


Fritters 


Forfarshire  Tea  Buns.  See  Bread. 
Fowl.  See  Poultry. 

Francatelli  Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 

Frapp6,  Chocolate,  Coffee,  etc. 

, See  Beverages. 

French  Beef  Soup.  See  Soups. 

French  Bread  See  Bread. 

..  Pancakes. 

..  Rolls. 

French  Candy.  See  Candy. 

French  Cream  Fritters. 

See  Fritters. 

French  Puffs.  See  Cakes. 

French  Salad  Dressing. 

See  Salads. 

French  Sandwiches. 

See  Sandwiches. 

French  Souffle.  See  Souffles. 

French  Vegetable  Broth. 

See  Soups. 

Fricandelles,  Fried. — Mince  first, 
and  then  pound  together,  beef  and 


suet  in  the  proportion  of  % lb.  of 
suet  to  I lb.  of  meat.  Roast  or  any 
cold  beef  may  be  used,  but  uncooked 
meat  is  best.  Smooth  to  a paste  with 
an  egg  or  two  and  a little  water. 
Add  3 ozs.  of  fine  bread-crumbs,  a 
little  shred  onion,  salt,  and  pepper. 
Make  into  egg-shaped  balls,  and  fry 
in  butter  to  a delicate  brown ; or 
they  may  be  baked  with  a mixture 
of  mashed  potatoes  as  a substitute 
for  bread,  and  fat  bacon  instead  of 
suet.  Time,  ten  minutes  to  fry. 

Fricandeau  of  Veal.  See  Veal. 

Fricasseed  Eggs.  See  Eggs. 

Fricassee  of  Chicken.  See  Poultry. 

Fricassee  of  Veal.  See  Veal. 

Fritella. — Take  the  livers,  gizzards, 
hearts,  and  lights  of  two  or  three 
chickens ; clean  and  parboil  them ; 
cut  them  into  neat  pieces ; slice  arti- 
chokes and  peeled  potatoes ; dip  them 
in  egg,  roll  in  flour  or  corn  meal, 
and  fry  in  boiling  oil  or  butter.  Drain 
dry,  and  serve  on  a hot  dish.  One 
or  two  artichokes  and  about  three 
good-sized  potatoes  will  be  enough. 
The  dish  is  much  better  if  it  has 
added  to  it  a parboiled  sweetbread 
and  a pair  of  calf's  brains,  also  par- 
boiled, fried  with  the  other  ingredients. 


FRITTERS 


Fritters. — There  are  few  dainties 
more  easily  prepared  than  are  fritters. 
To  one  who  has  mastered  the  knack 
or  art  of  fritter-making,  the  process  is 
simple  and  the  numerous  results  de- 
licious. The  materials  which  form 
the  base  of  their  composition  range 
from  fish,  flesh,  and  fowl  to  vegeta- 
bles and  fruits — those  made  of  fruits 
forming  most  delicious  desserts.  An 
essential  item  in  the  preparation  of 
these  toothsome  dainties  is  that  the 
deep  fat  in  which  they  are  to  be  cook- 


ed shall  be  at  just  the  right  point 
of  heat.  The  frying-kettle  contain- 
ing the  fat  must  be  set  at  one  side 
of  the  range,  where  it  will  heat  slowly 
until  needed,  when  it  may  be  drawn 
forward  and  allowed  to  become  very 
hot.  The  fat  is  tested  by  dropping  a 
cube  of  bread  into  it.  It  will  sink 
to  the  bottom  for  an  instant,  then 
rise  to  the  top,  and  in  one  minute 
should  be  a golden-brown  in  color. 
The  fat  is  then  at  the  proper  tem- 
perature, but  it  must  be  watched  care- 


153 


Fritters,  Batter  for 


FRITTERS 


Clam  Fritters 


fully  that  it  does  not  get  so  hot  as  to 
burn  and  blacken.  Fritter  batter 
should  not  be  allowed  to  stand  after 
it  is  completed  by  the  addition  of  the 
whites  of  eggs,  but  must  be  cooked  at 
once.  Experience  will  soon  teach 
one  exactly  how  thick  the  batter 
must  be.  It  is  hard  to  make  any 
positive  rule  as  to  the  quantity  of 
flour  required,  as  some  flours  thicken 
more  readily  than  others.  The  flour 
must  be  sifted  twice  with  the  salt,  the 
milk  must  be  carefully  measured, 
and  the  yolks  and  whites  of  the  eggs 
beaten  thoroughly  and  separately. 
To  have  fritters  of  uniform  size,  be 
careful  to  drop  even  spoonfuls  of  the 
batter  into  the  fat,  using  a long- 
handled  spoon  for  the  purpose.  As 
soon  as  they  are  of  a golden-brown, 
remove  at  once  from  the  kettle  with  a 
split  or  perforated  spoon,  and  lay 
in  a hot  colander  until  dry.  They 
should  be  served  very  hot. 

Fritters,  Batter  for. — One  pint  of 
sifted  flour,  four  eggs,  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one  pint  of  water  or  milk. 
Blend  the  salt  and  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs,  adding  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter  or  salad  oil.  Add  to  this  blend 
the  flour,  a little  at  a time,  and  then 
the  water.  Beat  it  well  and  let  it 
stand  at  least  two  hours.  When 
ready  to  use  stir  in  the  whites  of  the 
eggs,  which  have  been  beaten  into  a 
froth.  For  fruit  fritters,  a table- 
spoonful of  brandy  and  one  of  sugar 
are  to  be  added.  For  clam  and  oyster 
fritters,  use  their  juice  and  less  water. 
Frying  baskets  of  fine  wire  to  fit  the 
frying  kettle  can  be  bought  at  almost 
any  house-furnishing  store.  Heat 
the  fat  slowly.  When  a bluish  smoke 
rises  from  the  centre  of  the  kettle  the 
fat  is  hot.  After  the  frying  has  been 
finished,  strain  the  fat  through  a 
cloth.  If  this  is  done,  the  same  fat 
can  be  used  several  times. 

Apple  Fritters. — Cut  a dozen  large, 
juicy  apples  into  slices,  after  peeling 
and  coring  them.  Throw  the  slices 
into  the  batter.  Have  ready  a pan 
of  equal  parts  of  lard  and  butter, 


boiling  hot.  Take  the  batter  up  in  a 
ladle,  allowing  a slice  of  apple  to 
each  fritter,  and  drop  into  the  hot 
lard.  Fry  brown,  drain  a moment, 
and  serve  with  powdered  sugar  and 
nutmeg. 

Banana  Fritters.  — Peel  half  a 
dozen  bananas  and  cut  them  in  two, 
and  then  lengthwise.  Put  the  pieces 
of  fruit  in  a bowl  and  sprinkle  over 
them  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar 
and  three  of  sherry  wine.  Let  them 
stand  two  hours  in  a cool  place. 
Dip  the  pieces  of  banana  into  the 
batter,  and  drop  them  into  hot  fat 
and  cook  a delicate  brown.  Drain 
them  on  brown  paper  and  serve  hot 
with  a lemon  sauce. 

Bread  and  Fruit  Fritters.  — Take 
twelve  slices  of  bread  and  butter, 
cut  off  the  crust,  and  let  them  be  of 
equal  thickness ; spread  them  over 
with  jam — any  sort  that  may  be 
liked — and  make  a cover  with  an- 
other slice ; press  them  tightly  to- 
gether, and  cut  them  into  any  desired 
forms.  Dip  them  in  batter  and  fry 
in  boiling  lard  about  ten  minutes ; 
dry  them  before  the  fire  on  a piece  of 
blotting-paper  and  serve  on  a napkin, 
with  sifted  sugar  sprinkled  over. 

Cheese  and  Spaghetti  Fritters. — 

Boil  a scant  half-cup  of  spaghetti 
very  tender,  drain,  and  chop  fine. 
Stir  into  it  a large  table-spoonful  each 
of  grated  cheese  and  cream,  and 
season  with  salt  and  a little  cayenne. 
Have  ready  some  good  puff  paste, 
rolled  out  very  thin.  Cut  it  into 
rounds,  lay  on  each  piece  a spoonful 
of  the  spaghetti-and-cheese  mixture, 
double  over,  and  pinch  the  edges  to- 
gether that  the  contents  may  not 
escape.  Dip  in  egg,  drop  into  boiling 
fat,  and  fry  to  a light  yellow. 

Clam  Fritters. — Take  the  clams 
from  the  shells  and  put  them  into  a 
stewpan.  Add  about  half  the  strain- 
ed liquor,  and  a little  black  and 
cayenne  pepper  mixed.  When  they 
have  stewed  slowly  about  twenty 

154 


Corn  Fritters 


FRITTE  RS 


Peach  Fritters 


minutes,  take  them  off  the  fire,  drain 
the  liquor  off,  and  mince  them  fine, 
leaving  out  the  hard  parts.  The  fat 
should  be  very  hot. 

Corn  Fritters. — To  six  ears  of 
grated  corn  add  four  table-spoonfuls 
of  sweet,  rich  cream,  half  a coffee- 
cupful  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs — the  whites  beaten  separately 
and  then  stirred  in.  Salt,  and  fry 
as  other  fritters,  in  hot  butter.  Milk 
will  do  in  place  of  cream,  but  is  not 
so  nice.  Serve  with  wine  sauce. 

French  Cream  Fritters. — A half- 
pint of  cold  water;  half-pint  flour; 
three  whole  eggs,  and  the  white  of  a 
fourth;  one  table-spoonful  each  of 
butter  and  sugar;  grated  peel  of  half 
a lemon ; tiny  pinch  of  salt.  Put  the 
water,  sugar,  butter,  salt,  and  lemon- 
peel  together  in  a clean  saucepan 
and  bring  to  a boil.  Take  it  from 
the  fire,  and  when  it  cools  stir  in  the 
flour  carefully,  that  it  may  not  lump. 
Return  to  the  fire,  and  stir  steadily 
until  it  boils.  Again  take  it  off  and 
let  it  cool,  and  then  add  the  three 
eggs,  one  at  a time,  beating  each  in 
well.  When  it  is  stirred  enough  the 
mixture  will  leave  the  spoon  clean 
when  you  withdraw  it.  Add  now  the 
white  of  the  fourth  egg,  beaten  very 
stiff.  Set  the  mixture  aside  for  two 
hours,  and  then  drop  it  in  lumps  the 
size  of  an  English  walnut  from  the 
end  of  a spoon  into  boiling  fat.  Do 
not  have  too  many  in  at  once,  but 
take  them  out  with  a split  spoon  as 
fast  as  they  are  done.  Serve  on  a 
napkin  and  sprinkle  with  powdered 
sugar.  They  are  good  either  hot  or 
cold. 

Fruit  Fritters.  — Fruits  such  as 
pineapple,  apple,  orange,  peach,  etc., 
should  be  cut  in  slices,  dipped  in  the 
batter,  fried  nicely,  and,  when  dried 
before  the  fire,  strewed  with  sifted 
sugar.  Such  fruits  as  strawberries, 
cherries,  apricots,  and  raspberries 
should  be  thrown  into  the  batter,  and 
a spoonful  poured  into  the  boiling 
fat;  all  stones  must  be  previously 


removed.  For  frying  vegetables  mix 
into  the  batter,  in  the  place  of  sugar, 
etc.,  savory  herbs  and  salt. 

Indian- Meal  Fritters.  — Make  a 
batter  as  for  other  fritters,  with  four 
or  five  table-spoonfuls  of  meal,  a 
pint  of  warm  milk,  and  four  well- 
beaten  eggs.  Drop  the  batter  into 
boiling  lard  from  a ladle ; have  plenty 
in  the  pan.  Keep  each  fritter  sep- 
arate, and  serve,  after  drying  before 
the  fire,  as  quickly  as  possible,  that 
they  may  not  cool.  Time,  ten  to 
twelve  minutes  to  fry. 

Lemon  Fritters. — Shred  2 ozs.  of 
beef  suet  very  finely,  add  a dessert- 
spoonful of  flour,  3 ozs.  of  fine  bread- 
crumbs, the  grated  rind  of  a large 
lemon,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar.  When  the  dry  in- 
gredients are  thoroughly  blended, 
stir  in  a table-spoonful  of  milk,  two 
well-beaten  eggs,  and  a table-spoon- 
ful of  strained  lemon-juice.  Fry 
the  mixture  in  small  quantities  until 
it  is  lightly  browned  on  each  side; 
drain,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 
Time,  five  or  six  minutes  to  fry. 

Parsnip  Fritters. — Scrape  and  boil 
tender,  rub  through  a colander  to  get 
rid  of  the  tough  and  stringy  portions, 
beat  in  an  egg,  a table-spoonful  of 
milk,  a teaspoonful  (heaping)  of 
flour,  with  a little  pepper  and  salt ; 
make  into  small,  flat  cakes ; flour  and 
fry. 

Oyster  Fritters  are  made  the  same 
way  as  clam  fritters,  omitting  the 
cooking  before  putting  them  into  the 
batter.  The  fat  should  be  very  hot. 

Peach  Fritters.  — Put  ten  table- 
spoonfuls of  flour  into  a basin;  pour 
over  it  slowly,  stirring  all  the  time, 
to  keep  it  free  of  lumps, „ one  quart  of 
milk,  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  and 
then  the  beaten  whites ; have  some 
butter  hot  in  a dripping-pan,  and 
some  fresh  peaches  peeled  and  quar- 
tered ; take  up  a large  table-spoonful 
of  the  batter;  drop  into  it  one  of  the 


155 


Potato  Fritters 


FRITTERS 


Frozen  Pudding 


quarters  and  put  into  the  hot  fat ; fry, 
and  take  up  in  a skimmer.  Serve 
with  butter,  sugar,  and  nutmeg. 

Potato  Fritters.  — Grate  six  cold, 
boiled  potatoes ; add  to  them  one 
pint  of  cream  (new  milk  will  do),  and 
flour  enough  to  make  as  stiff  as  other 
fritters ; the  yolks  of  three  or  four 
eggs ; then  the  beaten  whites ; a little 
salt.  Fry  in  hot  lard  or  butter. 

Rhubarb  Fritters.  — Pare  and  cut 
into  small  pieces  a half-dozen  stalks 
of  rhubarb.  Stir  the  rhubarb  into 
the  batter.  Fry  the  same  as  other 
fritters,  and  when  done  to  a bright 
yellowish  brown  on  both  sides  drain 
and  serve  with  butter  and  sugar, 
together  with  a little  grated  nut- 
meg. 

Rice- and- Cheese  Fritters.  — One 
cupful  of  cold,  boiled  rice,  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  milk  or  cream,  one  egg, 
one -half  cupful  of  grated  cheese,  one 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  and  one  tea- 
spoonful of  baking-powder.  Heat  the 
rice  over  boiling  water,  add  the  milk, 
and,  when  soft,  add  the  beaten  egg 
and  cheese.  Beat  thoroughly,  then  add 
the  flour  and  baking-powder.  Drop 
in  small  portions  into  hot  butter  and 
cook  quickly,  turning  as  soon  as  a 
delicate  brown.  If  they  spread,  add 
a trifle  more  flour;  if  too  stiff,  add 
milk. 


Spinach  Fritters.  — Take  spinach 
and  boil  it  thoroughly,  drain  it  well, 
mince,  and  add  some  grated  bread, 
nutmeg,  ginger,  and  cinnamon,  all 
pounded.  Add  as  much  cream,  or 
yolks  and  whites  of  eggs,  as  will 
make  the  preparation  of  the  con- 
sistence of  batter;  scald  a few  cur- 
rants and  mix  them  in.  Drop  the 
batter  into  a frying-pan  of  boiling 
lard ; when  the  fritters  rise,  take 
them  out,  drain,  and  send  to  table. 

Squash  Fritters.— Grate  the  pared 
squash,  leaving  out  all  the  seeds ; 
to  every  coffee-cupful  add  half  a pint 
of  new  milk  or  cream,  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  flour  enough  to  make  it  as 
stiff  as  corn  fritters,  a little  salt  and 
pepper,  and  the  beaten  whites  of  the 
eggs.  Fry  in  lard  and  butter,  or 
butter  alone.  If  they  taste  too  much 
of  the  squash,  add  more  milk  and  flour. 

Veal  Fritters. — Cut  slices  from  cold 
roast  veal  so  that  they  shall  be  about 
half  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  a little 
larger  than  oysters,  and  of  the  same 
shape ; season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Have  ready  a dripping  - pan,  with 
enough  hot  melted  lard  in  it  to  nearly 
cover  the  fritters;  drop  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  the  batter,  over  this 
place  a piece  of  meat,  then  two  more 
spoonfuls  of  batter  on  top  of  the  meat. 
When  brown,  take  up,  and,  draining, 
send  hot  to  table. 


Frogs’  Legs,  Grilled. — Trim,  wash, 
and  dry  well,  medium  - sized  fresh 
frogs’  legs,  and  soak  for  one  hour 
in  a pint  of  cold  water  and  two  gills 
of  vinegar.  Remove  and  dry.  Have 
ready  three  table-spoonfuls  of  melted 
butter,  seasoned  with  a half-teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt  and  two  pinches  of  pepper, 
into  which  dip  the  frogs,  and  roll 
in  fresh  bread-crumbs  before  broiling 
them  three  minutes  on  each  side. 
As  a garnish,  wash  and  dry  well 
twelve  branches  of  long-stemmed 
parsley.  Put  them  in  the  frying- 


basket  and  plunge  for  two  minutes 
into  plenty  of  very  hot  fat.  It  is 
then  ready  for  garnishing.  Fried 
parsley  should  always  be  served  with 
boiled  or  fried  fish. 

Frosting. 

Frothed  Eggs. 

Frozen  Custard. 

Frozen  Pudding. 


See  Cakes. 
See  Eggs. 
See  Custards. 
See  Puddings. 


156 


Fruits  in  Blanc-mange 


FRUITS 


Apples,  Brown  Betty 


FRUITS 

For  other  fruit  recipes  see  Cakes, 
Custards,  Creams,  Ices,  Pies,  Pud- 
dings, Preserves,  Jams,  Jellies,  Mar- 
malades, Pickles,  etc.,  etc. 

A list  of  the  various  recipes  of  each 
fruit  will  also  be  found  under  the 
name  of  the  fruit.  For  instance,  un- 
der “ Apple”  will  be  found  Apple  Pie, 
Apple  Custard,  Apple  Dumpling,  Ap- 
ple Jelly,  Apple  Souffle,  etc.,  etc.,  with 
a reference  to  the  place  where  the 
recipe  will  be  found. 

Fruit  Compotes,  Syrup  for.  — The 
quantity  of  sugar  for  the  syrup  in 
compotes  must  depend  upon  the  acid- 
ity of  the  fruit.  For  rhubarb,  green 
gooseberries,  early  apples,  etc.,  io 
ozs.  of  loaf  sugar  to  be  boiled  gently 
with  half  a pint  of  water  for  ten  min- 
utes will  be  sufficient.  One  pound 
of  fruit  must  then  be  put  in  and 
boiled  gently  until  it  is  sufficiently 
cooked.  Lift  the  fruit  into  a deep 
glass  dish,  pour  the  syrup  round  it, 
and  serve.  For  apricots,  plums, 
strawberries,  and  cherries,  6 ozs. 
of  sugar  will  be  sufficient.  It  is  a 
most  delicious  and  wholesome  way 
of  serving  fruit.  Generally  speaking, 
the  larger  the  amount  of  sugar  used 
the  clearer  will  be  the  syrup  and  the 
longer  it  will  keep. 

Fruits  in  Blanc-mange  Border. — 

Make  a blanc-mange,  flavoring  it  so 
that  it  will  accord  well  with  the  fruits 
to  be  served  with  it.  For  instance,  with 
canned  or  preserved  cherries,  kirsch 
or  maraschino  may  be  used,  and 
either  of  these  would  answer  with 
peaches.  Set  the  blanc-mange  to  form 
in  a border  mould  wet  with  cold  water, 
and  when  firm  turn  out  the  shape  on 
a flat  dish.  Heap  the  fruit  in  the 
space  in  the  centre.  Almost  any 
preserved  or  brandied  fruit  is  good 
thus  served. 

Fruit  Biscuits. — Make  a paste  as 
follows : Mix  thoroughly  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs  and  4 ozs.  of  sugar. 
When  smooth,  add  4 ozs.  of  flour,  one 
egg,  and  a little  salt,  and  last  of 


all  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  whisked 
till  firm.  Spread  the  paste  on  a 
lined  baking-tin ; it  should  be  rather 
less  than  an  inch  thick.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven,  and  when  cool  cut  into 
fingers.  Rub  a cupful  of  straw- 
berries or  raspberries  through  a fine 
sieve,  and  mix  with  the  pulp  castor 
sugar  to  make  a stiff  paste.  Spread 
this  upon  the  biscuits  and  dry  in  a 
cool  oven. 

Fruit,  Compote  of,  Mixed. — Boil 
to  ozs.  of  sugar  and  half  a pint  of 
water  ten  minutes ; take  the  stalks 
from  a quart  of  red  currants  and  let 
them  simmer  with  the  same  quantity 
of  raspberries  from  eight  to  ten 
minutes  in  the  syrup.  Get  ripe, 
but  sound,  raspberries,  and  see  that 
they  are  free  from  moisture  before 
they  are  put  into  the  syrup. 

Fruits,  Macedoine  of.  — Set  a jelly 
mould  into  a pail  of  rough  ice  and  salt, 
and  arrange  the  fruits  according  to 
fancy  between  layers  of  clear,  well- 
sweetened  jelly,  flavored  with  some 
liquor,  as  noyeau  or  maraschino.  If 
the  jelly  be  poured  into  the  mould  an 
hour  before  it  is  required,  the  outside 
will  be  sufficiently  frozen,  and  the 
inner  part  will  be  as  firm  as  can  be 
desired.  When  removed  from  the 
ice-pail,  turn  out  the  jelly  on  a glass 
dish,  first  dipping  the  mould  into  tepid 
water,  which  will  loosen  it  immedi- 
ately. The  mould  should  be  covered 
while  in  the  ice. 

Apples,  Baked.  — Pare  some  good 
apples  and  scoop  out  the  cores.  Put 
a little  sugar  and  two  cloves  into  each 
hollow,  place  them  in  a dish,  not 
allowing  them  to  touch  one  another, 
strew  powdered  sugar  over  them,  and 
a little  sweet  wine  with  some  thin 
lemon-rind  in  it.  Cover  the  disji, 
and  bake  in  a slow  oven.  The  wine 
may  be  omitted.  Time  to  bake,  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour. 

Apples,  Brown  Betty.  — Apples, 
raisins,  currants,  and  dates,  the  pro- 
portions according  to  taste  or  fancy  ; 


157 


Apples  Buttered 


FRUITS 


Apple  Cream 


Graham  bread  cut  into  thin  slices.  Put 
into  the  kettle  a layer  of  the  fruits, 
then  a layer  of  bread,  alternating  until 
the  kettle  is  nearly  full,  or  a sufficient 
quantity  is  prepared ; add  cold  water 
until  it  reaches  within  two  inches  of 
the  top  of  the  pudding ; let  it  simmer 
slowly  until  the  bread  and  fruit  are 
thoroughly  soft,  when  the  liquor  will 
be  very  rich ; serve  warm  or  cold. 
Grated  cocoanut  may  be  added  if  its 
flavor  is  desired. 

Apples  Buttered  with  Toast. — Put 

six  nice  pippin  apples  in  a saucepan 
half  full  of  cold  water ; let  come  to  a 
simmer  for  five  minutes ; remove  the 
apples  from  the  pan ; peel  and  core 
them.  Have  prepared  six  round 
pieces  of  bread  half  an  inch  thick; 
butter  them  on  both  sides.  Butter 
well  a small  pie-pan;  place  the  bread 
in  it  and  sprinkle  over  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  granulated  sugar.  Put 
one  teaspoonful  of  fresh  butter  in 
each  apple ; finish  with  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  sugar ; put  in  the  hot  oven  for 
twenty  minutes.  Remove  from  the 
oven  and  fill  them  up  over  the  top 
with  some  nice  currant  - jelly ; put 
back  in  the  oven  for  five  minutes. 
Serve  hot. 

Apple  Charlotte  (with  apricots). — 
Peel,  core,  and  cut  in  thick  slices 
one  quart  of  nice  pippin  apples,  and 
put  with  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
fresh  butter  in  a small  saucepan 
over  a brisk  fire  for  five  minutes, 
stirring  constantly.  Remove  from 
the  fire  and  add  one  liquor-glass  of 
brandy,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  water, 
half  a teaspoonful  of  grated  orange- 
rind,  or  of  vanilla,  three  tablespoon- 
fuls of  powdered  sugar.  Put  the 
saucepan  back  over  the  fire,  cook  ten 
more  minutes  with  cover  on,  stirring 
from  time  to  time.  This  puree  must 
be  thick. 

Remove  from  the  fire,  cool  the 
puree,  and  mix  with  it  the  white  of 
an  egg,  beaten  stiff.  Butter  well  all 
over  a mould  of  one  quart,  cut  a round 
piece  of  an  American  loaf — it  must 
be  the  size  of  the  top  of  the  mould 


and  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick — lay 
it  inside  the  mould,  and  garnish  all 
around  with  slices  of  bread  cut  one 
inch  wide  and  the  length  of  the  mould. 
Dip  one  side  in  melted  butter,  to 
make  the  slices  adhere  to  the  mould 
and  stick  together ; they  must  be 
overlapping  each  other.  Fill  up  the 
mould  to  a third  part  with  the  cooked 
apples,  and  put  in  the  centre  six 
table-spoonfuls  of  apricot  marmalade 
previously  heated  up.  Fill  the  mould 
with  the  remaining  apples ; cover 
with  another  round  piece  of  bread ; 
put  the  mould  over  a round  pie-pan, 
and  bake  in  a hot  oven  for  thirty 
minutes.  Remove  from  the  oven. 
Put  a small,  fancy  napkin  over  a hot, 
round  platter ; put  the  platter  over  the 
mould  and  turn  it  over  with  care. 
Remove  the  mould,  decorate  around 
with  some  fresh  macaroons,  and  serve 
hot. 

Rice  cooked  in  milk  with  a little 
sugar,  and  flavored  in  the  same  way 
as  the  apples,  could  be  substituted 
for  the  apricots,  and  would  make  a 
very  substantial  as  well  as  tasty 
entrement. 

Apples  a la  Cherbourg. — Choose 
firm  but  good  boiling  apples.  Pare 
them  and  cut  them  into  bricks.  Put 
I lb.  of  sugar,  the  thickly  peeled  rind 
of  two  lemons,  and  a little  ginger, 
to  every  pound  of  apples,  and  cover 
them  closely  for  some  hours.  Then 
place  them  in  a preserving-pan,  being 
careful  not  to  break  the  apples,  and 
put  to  them  half  a cupful  of  cider. 
Let  them  boil  until  the  apples  look 
quite  clear,  then  remove  them  one 
by  one  to  a dish.  When  cold,  place 
them  in  cross  piles,  and  crown  the 
whole  with  the  lemon  - peel.  Pour 
the  syrup  round  and  serve  with 
cream.  Time  to  boil,  about  twenty 
minutes. 

Apple  Cream. — Boil  six  or  seven 
large  apples,  with  a little  cinnamon, 
to  a pulp,  with  sufficient  sugar  to 
sweeten  them;  the  quantity  of  sugar 
must  be  regulated  by  the  acidity  of 
the  apples.  When  cold,  add  to  them 
158 


LAjuimuui  t'uouc  Library 

Columbia , Mo. 


Apples  a la  Cremone 


FRUITS 


Apples,  Meringue  of 


the  well  - whisked  whites  of  three 
eggs.  Beat  all  together  until  they 
are  nicely  frothed ; then  serve,  heaped 
on  a dish.  Time  to  beat,  a quarter 
of  an  hour. 

Apples  a la  Cremone.  — Choose 
the  best  cooking  apples  ; pare  and  cut 
into  pieces,  the  form  of  a brick,  a 
sufficient  quantity  to  weigh  I Yz  lbs.  ; 
strew  over  them  I lb.  of  granulated 
sugar  and  the  peel  of  a lemon, 
shredded  finely,  and  cover  them  up 
close  in  a bowl.  Next  day  put  the 
apples,  piece  by  piece,  into  a small 
preserving- pan,  with  the  sugar,  etc., 
and  two  large  spoonfuls  of  sweet 
cider  or  the  juice  of  a lemon.  Simmer 
very  gently,  and,  as  the  pieces  of 
apple  become  clear,  take  them  out. 
When  cold,  build  a wall  with  them  on 
a small  oval  dish,  and  place  the 
lemon-peel  on  the  top ; pour  the  syr- 
up into  the  middle.  Serve  cream  to 
eat  with  it.  The  peel  of  an  orange 
cut  thin  may  take  the  place  of  lemon, 
if  preferred. 

Apple  Cobbler  (without  crust). — 
Two  pounds  of  pared,  cored,  and 
sliced  apples.  Put  them  into  a pan 
that  can  be  covered  ; add  I lb.  of  white 
sugar,  juice  of  three  lemons,  grated 
rind  of  half  a lemon ; cook  two  hours, 
put  into  a mould,  and  eat  with  cream. 
Delicious. 

Apple  Float. — One  pint  of  stewed 
apples;  when  cold,  sweeten  and  fla- 
vor to  taste.  Just  as  you  want  to 
send  to  table,  add  the  beaten  whites 
of  four  eggs  lightly  stirred  into  it. 
With  cream  this  makes  a nice  dessert. 

Apple-fool. — Take  2 lbs.  of  apples, 
pared  and  cored.  Put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  a cupful  of  water,  one 
or  two  cloves,  and  sugar  to  taste. 
Let  them  simmer  till  quite  soft,  and 
beat  them  well  with  a wooden  spoon. 
Mix  with  them,  gradually,  a pint  of 
new  milk,  or  milk  and  cream,  boiled 
and  allowed  to  become  cold,  sweet- 
ened and  flavored.  Time  to  simmer 
the  apples,  about  half  an  hour. 


Apple  Gateau. — Boil  1 lb.  of  sugar 
in  half  a pint  of  water  till  it  makes  a 
rich  syrup.  Peel,  core,  and  slice  very 
thinly  2 lbs.  of  any  nicely  flavored 
apples  which  will  fall  easily.  Boil 
in  the  syrup  with  the  rind  and  juice 
of  a lemon  until  stiff.  Pour  the 
mixture  into  a mould,  and  the  follow- 
ing day  turn  it  out  and  serve  with 
custard.  Time,  about  two  hours. 

Apples,  Jellied. — Peel  and  core  firm, 
tart  apples.  Put  them  over  the  fire 
in  just  enough  water  to  cover  them, 
sprinkling  them  generously  with 
white  sugar.  Cook  slowly  at  the 
back  of  the  fire  until  the  apples  are 
tender.  Take  them  out  with  a split 
spoon.  Bring  the  liquid  left  from 
them  to  a boil,  and  add  to  it  a table- 
spoonful of  gelatine  which  has  been 
soaked  for  half  an  hour  in  a very 
little  cold  water.  When  this  is 
dissolved  pour  all  over  the  apples, 
which  should  have  been  arranged  in 
a bowl.  Let  them  become  ice-cold  be- 
fore serving  them.  Eat  with  cream, 
whipped  or  plain. 

Apples  a la  Marie.  — Pare  some 
large,  firm  apples,  and  scoop  out  the 
core  without  dividing  them.  Fill  the 
cavity  with  cream  or  custard.  Cover 
each  apple  with  a little  short  crust, 
with  a sort  of  knot  or  bow  at  the 
top,  and  bake  in  a moderate  oven. 
Serve  with  sifted  sugar.  Time  to 
bake,  half  an  hour. 

Apples,  Meringue  of. — Take  twelve 
apples,  cut  them  in  quarters,  take 
out  the  cores,  and  slice.  Place  them 
in  a stewpan,  and  stir  over  a brisk 
fire  for  a quarter  of  an  hour  with  6 
ozs.  of  butter  and  Y\  lb.  of  powdered 
sugar.  When  cool,  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  jam,  according  to  taste. 
Place  the  whole  in  the  form  of  a 
pyramid  in  the  centre  of  a dish,  and 
cover  thickly  with  the  whites  of  three 
eggs,  whipped  to  a firm  cream  with 
Y\  lb-  of  pounded  sugar.  Lay  this 
mixture  on,  sprinkle  more  sugar 
over,  and  bake.  When  done,  the 
meringue  should  have  acquired  a 


159 


Apples,  Miroton  of 


FRU ITS 


Apples,  Stewed 


pale  yellow  color.  Time,  about  ten 
minutes  to  bake. 

Apples,  Miroton  of.  — Pare,  core, 
and  slice  half  a dozen  finely  flavored 
apples.  Place  them  in  a stewpan 
with  very  little  water,  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  sugar,  and  some  powdered 
cinnamon,  and  let  them  simmer  very 
gently  until  reduced  to  a pulp ; lay 
this  smoothly  in  a dish.  Then  boil 
seven  or  eight  lumps  of  sugar  with 
a teacupful  of  water  and  the  thinly 
grated  rind  of  two  lemons ; add  a 
lump  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  a 
spoonful  of  flour,  another  of  brandy, 
the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  the  white 
of  one.  Mix  these  well  over  the  fire 
until  quite  smooth ; pour  over  the 
apples ; then  whisk  to  a stiff  froth 
the  remaining  whites  of  the  eggs. 
When  the  custard  is  cold,  pile  the 
egg  whites  upon  it,  sift  a dessert- 
spoonful of  sugar  on  the  top,  and  set 
the  dish  in  the  oven  till  the  surface 
is  lightly  browned. 

Apple  Pudding  (without  pastry). — 
Pare  and  cut  up  enough  apples  to 
weigh  2 lbs.  Boil  them,  and  rub 
through  a colander.  Add  a large 
spoonful  of  butter  while  they  are  hot, 
and  when  cold  add  /4  lb.  of  crushed 
white  sugar,  six  well  - beaten  eggs, 
and  the  grated  rind  of  a lemon.  Pour 
the  mixture  into  a deep  dish,  and  bake 
for  half  an  hour. 

Apples  and  Rice. — Simmer  a cup- 
ful of  rice  in  a quart  of  milk  until  the 
rice  is  tender  and  the  milk  absorb- 
ed. Add  a heaped  table-spoonful  of 
sugar,  and  half  a dozen  drops  of  es- 
sence of  almonds.  Beat  well  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  place  in  the  centre 
of  a large  dish  a round  jar,  and  pour 
the  rice  round  it.  Pare,  core,  and 
cut  six  or  eight  large  apples  into 
slices  half  an  inch  thick.  Fry  them 
in  boiling  oil  or  butter  until  they  are 
cooked  through,  but  do  not  allow 
them  to  break;  stick  them  into  the 
rice,  and  ornament  it  prettily  with 
colored  jam,  pink  sugar,  red  jelly, 
or  in  any  way  that  the  fancy  may 


suggest.  Before  serving,  lift  the  jar 
from  the  centre  of  the  dish,  and  fill 
the  hole  with  a good  custard.  This 
may  be  eaten  either  hot  or  cold. 
Time  to  boil  the  rice,  forty  minutes. 

Apples  and  Rice  Snowballs.  — 

Wash  Yz  lb.  of  rice  in  two  or  three 
waters  and  pick  out  all  imperfect 
grains.  Throw  it  into  a saucepan 
of  fast-boiling  water,  and  boil  quickly 
for  ten  minutes ; drain,  and  cool  it. 
Pare  five  or  six  large  baking  apples, 
and  carefully  scoop  the  core  without 
dividing  them.  Put  into  the  hollow 
of  each  a little  grated  lemon-rind  or 
cinnamon  and  sugar.  Divide  the 
rice  into  as  many  portions  as  there 
are  apples,  and  spread  each  portion 
in  a circular  form  on  a separate  cloth. 
Lay  the  fruit  in  the  centre,  and  tie 
the  cloth  to  cover  the  apple  with 
the  rice.  Put  the  puddings  into 
boiling  water,  and  keep  them  boiling 
quickly  until  done  enough.  Turn 
the  snowballs  upon  a hot  dish,  strew 
powdered  sugar  thickly  over  them, 
and  send  melted  butter  to  table  with 
them.  If  liked,  oranges,  skinned 
and  cleared  from  the  thick,  white 
skin,  may  be  substituted  for  the 
apples.  Time  to  boil,  an  hour  and 
a half. 

Apple  Snow.  — Reduce  half  a 
dozen  apples  to  a pulp,  press  them 
through  a sieve,  sweeten  and  flavor 
them.  Take  the  whites  of  six  eggs, 
whisk  them  for  some  minutes,  and 
strew  into  them  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  sifted  sugar.  Beat  the  pulp  to  a 
froth,  then  mix  the  two  together, 
and  whisk  them  until  thjey  look  like 
stiff  snow.  Pile  high  in  rough 
pieces  on  a glass  dish,  stick  a sprig 
of  green  in  the  middle,  and  garnish 
with  small  pieces  of  bright  - colored 
jelly.  Time  to  beat  the  snow,  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour. 

Apples,  Stewed.  — Pare  half  a 
dozen  large-sized,  tart  apples ; scoop 
out  the  cores ; boil  the  apples  in  sugar 
and  water  until  they  are  soft  enough 
to  be  pierced  with  a broom-splint. 


Apricots  with  Blanc-mange  FRUITS 


Apricots  au  Riz 


Have  them  keep  their  shape.  Mix 
cold  boiled  rice,  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  sugar  and  spice  to  taste,  fill 
the  centres  of  the  stewed  apples  with 
the  rice,  etc;  beat  the  whites  of  the 
two  eggs  to  a stiff  froth,  adding  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 
Put  a spoonful  of  this  on  the  top  of 
each  apple  and  send  to  the  table. 

Apricots  with  Bavarian  Blanc- 
mange. — Put  I oz.  of  gelatine  dis- 
solved with  a pint  of  cream  or  new 
milk.  Squeeze  the  juice  of  a lemon 
over  a teacupful  of  apricot  jam,  and 
mix  with  it  very  gradually  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  milk.  Stir  all  together 
for  a few  minutes ; strain  through 
coarse  muslin,  and,  when  nearly  cold, 
put  it  into  a mould  which  has  been 
previously  soaked  in  water.  Let 
it  stand  twelve  hours  in  a cool  place. 
Time  to  boil  the  mixture,  five  minutes. 

Apricot  Cream.  — Take  a dozen 
and  a half  ripe  apricots;  pare,  stone, 
and  halve  them,  and  place  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  a cupful  of  sugar 
dissolved  in  a cupful  of  water.  Let 
them  simmer  gently  until  they  are 
reduced  to  pulp,  when  they  must  be 
pressed  through  a fine  sieve  and  put 
aside  to  cool.  Boil  a pint  and  a 
half  of  new  milk  or  cream  with  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  sugar.  If  these 
cannot  be  easily  obtained,  condensed 
milk  may  be  substituted,  and  will 
answer  very  much  the  same  purpose, 
but  it  must  be  remembered  that, 
whenever  this  is  used,  less  sugar 
will  be  required.  Let  it  cool  after 
boiling,  then  put  to  it  the  yolks  of 
eight  eggs,  well  beaten.  Pour  this 
into  a crock,  which  must  be  placed 
in  a saucepan  of  boiling  water  and 
stirred  one  way  until  it  thickens. 
Add  i l/z  ozs.  of  isinglass  which  has 
been  boiled  in  a little  water,  and,  when 
the  cream  is  cold,  mix  the  apricot  with 
it ; pour  the  mixture  into  a well-oiled 
mould  and  keep  it  in  a cool  place. 
If  apricots  are  out  of  season,  apricot 
marmalade  may  be  used  instead. 
Time  to  thicken  the  cream,  ten  to 
fifteen  minutes. 


Apricots,  Compote  of. — Take  one 
dozen  large,  sound  apricots ; halve 
them,  remove  the  stones,  and  blanch 
the  kernels.  Put  Y\  lb.  of  loaf  sugar 
into  an  enamelled  stewpan  with  a 
pint  and  a half  of  water.  Let  it  boil ; 
then  put  in  the  apricots,  and  let  them 
simmer  very  gently  for  a few  minutes. 
Take  them  out,  drain  them,  and  ar- 
range them  in  a dish.  When  the 
syrup  is  cold,  pour  it  over  the  fruit. 
Put  half  a kernel  upon  each  piece  of 
apricot. 

Apricot  Paste.  — Peel  and  stone 
some  apricots,  and  put  them  into  a 
dish  in  a warm  oven ; cover  the  fruit 
with  another  dish,  and  let  them 
remain  until  they  are  tender;  then 
take  them  out  and  let  them  get  cold. 
When  this  is  done,  take  the  same 
weight  of  powdered  loaf  sugar  as 
there  was  fruit,  and  moisten  it  with  a 
small  quantity  of  water ; boil  it  until 
ready  to  candj7,  and  then  mix  the 
apricots  with  it;  stir  the  syrup  con- 
tinually, and  boil  it  until  it  becomes 
of  the  consistency  of  marmalade. 
Make  this  paste  into  the  shape  of 
apricots,  and  put  it  in  a warm  place. 
When  dry  it  will  be  found  very  trans- 
parent. Time  to  boil  the  sugar  and 
fruit,  till  it  is  stiff  and  smooth. 

Apricots  au  Riz. — Put  a cupful  of 
rice  in  a saucepan  with  a quart  of 
milk,  a piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
nut,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar, 
and  the  rind  of  a lemon.  Let  all 
simmer  gently,  and  when  the  milk 
is  absorbed  and  the  rice  tender,  add 
to  it  four  well-beaten  eggs.  Boil  up 
again,  stirring  all  the  time,  to  cook 
the  eggs.  Remove  the  lemon-rind. 
Put  a large  cup  in  the  middle  of  a large 
glass  dish,  and  heap  the  rice  round  it ; 
smooth  it  with  the  back  of  a spoon, 
and  let  it  slope  down  to  the  edges  of 
the  dish.  When  it  is  cold,  remove 
the  cup,  and  place  the  apricots  in 
the  hollow,  piling  them  pyramidi- 
cally.  They  must  be  prepared  thus  : 
Take  two  dozen  of  the  fresh  fruit, 
sound  and  ripe ; pare,  stone,  and  slice 
them.  Make  a syrup  of  a breakfast- 


ii 


Bananas,  Baked 


FRUITS 


Cherries  and  Tapioca 


cupful  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  two 
lemons.  When  it  is  boiling,  throw 
in  the  slices  and  cook  them  quickly. 
A few  of  the  kernels  may  be  blanched 
and  chopped  and  strewed  over  the 
fruit.  Place  a layer  of  apricot  mar- 
malade mixed  with  the  syrup  at  the 
bottom  of  the  hollow,  and  pile  the 
strewed  fruit  on  that.  Time  to  stew 
the  slices,  five  minutes. 

Bananas,  Baked.  — Tear  a strip  of 
skin  from  each  banana,  and  lay  the 
fruit,  the  peeled  side  uppermost,  in 
a baking  - pan.  Pour  a very  little 
water  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  cover 
closely,  and  bake  the  bananas  for 
twenty-five  minutes.  Remove  the 
skins,  lay  the  fruit  on  a hot  platter, 
and  serve  with  a sauce  made  as  fol- 
lows : Rub  two  heaping  table-spoon- 

fuls of  butter  and  a cupful  of  powdered 
sugar  to  a cream,  add  the  unbeaten 
whites  of  two  eggs,  and  beat  until 
very  light.  Into  this  stir  a half-cupful 
of  boiling  water  and  the  same  quan- 
tity of  sherry  wine.  Put  into  a 
double  boiler  over  the  fire  and  beat 
, until  the  sauce  froths ; then  serve  at 
once. 

Another  way  : — Peel  the  fruit  and 
slice  it  lengthwise  ; roll  the  pieces  in 
cracker  dust  and  fry  in  a little  butter ; 
sprinkle  with  sugar  and  serve.  Or 
place  the  bananas  in  a baking-pan, 
salt  and  dredge  them  with  flour ; 
squeeze  a little  lemon  - juice  over 
them,  and  add  a little  water  to  make 
a dressing.  Bake  in  a moderate 
oven. 

Bananas  en  Daube.  — Peel  half  a 
dozen  ripe  bananas  and  cut  them 
into  slices  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
thick ; put  in  a saucepan  some  fresh 
lard,  and  when  the  lard  becomes  very 
hot  put  in  the  pieces  of  banana  and 
fry  them  until  a light  brown;  drain 
out  the  fruit,  and  to  the  hot  lard  add 
a small  half-cupful  of  sugar,  a stick 
of  cinnamon,  and  one  cupful  of  water ; 
boil  until  this  is  a syrup;  return  the 
fried  bananas  to  the  syrup,  and  when 
they  are  heated  remove  the  cinna- 
mon and  serve. 


Bananas,  Stuffed.  — Remove  the 
skin  from  one  side  of  large  bananas 
and  scoop  out  a hollow  three-quar- 
ters of  an  inch  deep.  Chop  candied 
pineapple  and  cherries  very  fine,  and 
mix  with  them  granulated  sugar 
and  sherry  wine.  Put  the  mixture 
in  the  bananas,  heaping  it  up ; bake 
them  in  a moderate  oven  for  twenty 
minutes.  Serve  them  in  the  skins, 
very  hot,  and  pour  a table-spoonful 
of  orange-juice  over  each  banana. 
For  half  a dozen  bananas  allow  2 ozs. 
of  pineapple  and  the  same  amount 
of  cherries,  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
sherry,  and  two  of  sugar. 

Blackberry  Froth. —Whites  of  four 
eggs,  one  cupful  of  blackberry-juice, 
two  cupfuls  of  boiling  water,  one 
cupful  of  cold  water,  one-half  box  of 
gelatine,  one  cupful  of  sugar.  Soak 
the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  one 
hour,  stir  the  sugar  into  it,  and  pour 
the  boiling  water  over  them.  When 
they  are  dissolved  add  the  black- 
berry-juice, strain,  and  set  on  the  ice 
until  the  jelly  is  nearly  firm.  Beat 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  and  whip 
into  the  jelly  a little  at  a time.  Turn 
into  a mould  wet  with  cold  water,  and 
let  it  stand  until  firm.  Serve  with 
sweet  cream. 

Cherries,  Compote  of.  — Take  off 
the  stems  from  the  cherries.  Make 
a syrup  with  5 ozs.  of  sugar  and  half 
a pint  of  water  for  sweet  cherries, 
but  allow  another  ounce  of  sugar  for 
the  extra  acidity  of  sour  cherries. 
Stew  1 lb.  of  the  fruit  in  the  syrup  for 
twenty  minutes ; they  may  be  stoned 
or  not.  Time,  ten  minutes  to  boil 
sugar;  eight  to  ten  minutes  for  the 
cherries. 

Cherries  and  Tapioca.  — One  and 
a half  pounds  of  sour  cherries, 
one  cupful  of  tapioca,  and  sugar  to 
taste.  Wash  the  tapioca  thoroughly, 
cover  with  cold  water,  and  soak 
overnight.  In  the  morning  put  in  a 
double  boiler  with  one  pint  of  hot 
water,  and  cook  until  the  tapioca  is 
clear,  like  starch.  Stir  the  stoned 


162 


Cherry  Cheese 


FRUITS 


Currant-fool 


cherries  into  the  boiling  mixture, 
sweeten  to  taste,  add  half  a teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  set  away  to  get  very 
cold.  Serve  with  sugar  and  cream. 

Cherry  Cheese. — Take  some  sound, 
ripe  cherries,  stoned  or  not,  as  pre- 
ferred ; put  them  into  a stone  jar, 
cover  it  closely,  and  place  this  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  let  it 
simmer  gently  until  the  fruit  is  quite 
soft.  When  the  cherries  are  suffi- 
ciently tender,  take  them  from  the 
fire,  skin  and  stone  them,  and  add 
lb.  of  finely  sifted  sugar  to  every 
pound  of  fruit.  Add  a few  of  the 
kernels,  blanched.  Put  the  mixt- 
ure into  a preserving-pan  and  boil  it 
gently,  stirring  it  all  the  time,  until 
the  fruit  is  so  dry  that  it  will  not  ad- 
here to  the  finger  when  touched,  and 
is  quite  clear.  Press  it  quickly  into 
shallow  jars  which  have  been  damp- 
ed with  brandy.  Cover  closely,  and 
keep  in  a dry  place.  Time,  two 
hours. 

Chestnut  Mountain  a la  Niege. — 

Take  off  the  skins  of  2 lbs.  of  chest- 
nuts. Boil  till  perfectly  tender. 
When  cool,  rub  through  a fine  wire 
sieve  with  a wooden  spoon.  To  this 
add  one  table  - spoonful  of  castor 
sugar,  a little  vanilla,  a wineglassful 
of  brandy.  Mix  well  together,  and 
rub  through  the  sieve  on  to  a dish. 
Pile  up  lightly  and  cover  half-way 
down  with  the  whipped  cream,  to 
give  the  appearance  of  snow.  Half 
a pint  of  cream  is  required  for  whip- 
ping, to  which  a little  castor  sugar 
and  vanilla  have  been  added. 

Chestnuts,  Compote  of.  — Boil  the 
chestnuts  for  eight  minutes,  remove 
the  husks  and  skins,  place  in  a sauce- 
pan % lb.  of  granulated  sugar  and  a 
gill  of  water.  When  it  comes  to  a 
boil,  drop  in  the  chestnuts  and  let 
them  remain  until  they  have  ab- 
sorbed all  the  syrup ; take  them  out, 
arrange  high  on  a glass  dish,  squeeze 
over  them  the  juice  of  half  a lemon, 
and  sprinkle  with  granulated  sugar. 
Serve  when  cold. 


Cranberry  and  Ground -Rice  Jelly. 

— Draw  out  a pint  of  cranberry- 
juice  by  putting  the  fruit  and  two  or 
three  cloves  into  a closely  covered 
jar,  placing  the  jar  in  a saucepan  of 
cold  water  on  a moderate  fire,  and 
simmering  gently  for  about  half  an 
hour.  Mix  the  juice  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  ground  rice  and  two  of 
sugar,  boil  it  gently  until  it  thickens, 
and  pour  it  into  a mould  which  has 
been  immersed  in  cold  water.  When 
cold,  turn  it  out,  and  eat  it  with  a 
little  cream.  A quarter  of  an  hour 
to  boil  with  the  rice. 

Cranberry  Gruel  (invalid  cookery). 
— A few  cranberries  boiled  in  a little 
thin  gruel,  sweetened  and  flavored 
with  grated  nutmeg,  is  a pleasant 
change  for  an  invalid.  Time,  ten 
minutes.  Sufficient,  half  a cupful  of 
cranberries  with  their  juice  for  half  a 
pint  of  gruel. 

Currants.  — Wash  and  stem  one 
quart  of  currants.  Put  them  in  a 
dish  and  sprinkle  over  them  five  table- 
spoonfuls of  powdered  sugar,  a tea- 
spoonful of  powdered  cinnamon,  and 
then  add  a gill  of  brandy  or  wine. 
Stir  gently  and  let  the  dish  stand  in 
a cold  place  an  hour  before  serving. 

Currants,  Compote  of.  — Pick  a 
quart  of  ripe  red  and  white  currants 
quite  free  from  dust.  Put  lb.  of 
loaf  sugar  and  a breakfast-cupful  of 
cold  water  into  a saucepan.  Sim- 
mer the  syrup  gently  for  a quarter 
of  an  hour,  then  put  in  the  currants 
and  simmer  them  for  ten  minutes 
longer.  Put  the  fruit  into  a dish, 
pour  the  syrup  over  it,  and  serve 
cold.  Currants  prepared  thus  are 
excellent  served  with  blanc-mange  or 
a rice  mould. 

Currant  - fool.  — Strip  some  fresh, 
ripe  red  currants  from  the  stalks, 
and  stew  them  gently  with  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  to  every 
pint  of  fruit.  Press  them  through 
a sieve,  and  when  nearly  cold  mix 
with  them  finely  grated  bread-crumbs 


163 


Currants,  Frosted 


FRUITS  Gooseberries,  Compote  of 


and  cream,  or  new  milk.  Time  to 
stew  the  currants,  half  an  hour. 

Currants,  Frosted.  — As  a centre- 
piece at  a luncheon,  and  to  garnish 
Bavarian  creams  or  other  desserts. 
Take  large,  perfect  bunches,  pick 
carefully,  and  dip  them  in  the  partly 
beaten  white  of  an  egg,  to  which  a 
little  cold  water  has  been  added. 
Drain  a moment,  roll  them  in  pow- 
dered sugar,  and  lay  them  upon  a 
sieve  to  dry. 

Currants,  To  Keep. — Gather  the 
fruit  when  it  is  quite  dry  and  not 
over-ripe,  pick  it  from  the  stalks,  and 
put  it  into  a large,  dry  earthen  jar, 
with  Y\  lb.  of  moist  sugar  to  each 
pound  of  fruit.  Put  it  in  a good 
oven  and  bake  it  for  twenty  minutes. 
Warm  some  preserving  jars,  be  sure 
that  they  are  quite  dry,  and  fill  them 
with  the  fruit.  Store  them  in  a dry 
place.  They  will  keep  good  through 
the  winter  if  they  are  not  opened, 
but  they  require  to  be  used  when  the 
cover  has  once  been  removed. 

Currant,  Solid.  — Dissolve  Yz  lb. 
of  red-currant  jelly  in  a pint  of  cream, 
and  add  a little  sugar  if  necessary. 
Stir  in  % oz.  of  gelatine  which  has 
been  dissolved  in  a quarter  of  a pint 
of  water,  beat  the  mixture  for  a few 
minutes,  pour  it  into  a damped  mould 
of  earthenware — not  metal — and  set 
it  in  a cool  place.  When  wanted, 
turn  it  out  carefully  upon  a glass  dish, 
and  serve. 

Figs,  Green,  Compote  of.  — Boil 
I lb.  of  sugar  with  a pint  and  a half 
of  water  and  the  rind  of  half  a lemon  ; 
take  off  the  scum  as  it  appears,  and 
when  it  has  boiled  a quarter  of  an 
hour  put  in  one  pint  and  a half  of 
green  figs  and  simmer  them  very 
slowly  till  tender,  adding  a little 
port  wine  or  lemon- juice.  Remove 
the  figs,  and  boil  the  syrup  up  quick- 
ly; pour  it  over  the  figs,  and  when 
cold  serve  on  a glass  dish.  Time, 
two  to  three  hours  to  stew  the 
figs. 


Gooseberry  Charlotte.  — Pick  the 
tops  and  stalks  from  I Y2  lbs.  of  goose- 
berries ; wash  and  drain  them,  and 
boil  them  with  I Y2  lbs.  of  loaf  sugar, 
until  reduced  to  a pulp.  Press  them 
through  a coarse  sieve.  Take  half  a 
dozen  sponge  biscuits,  cut  them  into 
thin  slices,  and  line  a plain,  round 
mould  with  them.  Pour  in  the  fruit, 
cover  it  with  slices  of  sponge  cake, 
place  a cover  and  a weight  on  the 
top,  and  let  it  remain  until  well  set. 
Turn  it  out  before  serving,  and  pour 
some  good  custard  or  nicely  flavored 
cream  round  it.  Thin  slices  of  bread 
may  be  used  instead  of  sponge  bis- 
cuit. Time,  ten  or  twelve  hours  to 
set  properly. 

Gooseberry  Compote. — One  pint  of 
red-currant  juice  in  a porcelain  - lined 
kettle  with  2Y2  lbs.  of  sugar;  stir 
till  dissolved ; add  4 lbs.  of  ripe  goose- 
berries, simmer  for  half  an  hour,  take 
off  and  stand  overnight.  The  next 
day  cook  till  clear  ; skim  out  fruit  and 
place  on  a dish  ; boil  syrup  till  quite 
thick,  and  pour  over  fruit. 

Gooseberry  - fool. — Take  the  tops 
and  stalks  from  1 lb.  of  green  goose- 
berries and  boil  them  with  34  lb.  of 
sugar  and  a cupful  of  water.  When 
quite  soft,  press  them  through  a 
coarse  sieve,  and  mix  with  them, 
very  gradually,  a pint  of  milk — or 
cream,  if  a richer  dish  is  required. 
Serve  when  cold.  This  old-fashioned 
dish  is  wholesome  and  inexpensive, 
and,  when  well  made,  very  agreeable. 
Time,  about  twenty  minutes  to  boil 
the  fruit. 

Gooseberries,  Green,  Compote  of. 

— Pick  a quart  of  gooseberries.  Put 
them  into  boiling  water  for  two 
minutes,  and  next  into  cold  water, 
mixed  with  a table-spoonful  of  vine- 
gar, for  two  minutes,  to  restore  the 
color;  then  drain  them.  Make  a 
syrup  by  boiling  34  lb-  of  loaf  sugar 
in  lumps  with  one  pint  of  water  for 
ten  minutes.  Put  in  the  goose- 
berries. Boil  them  gently  for  ten 
minutes,  or  until  the  fruit  is  tender 


Gooseberry  Toast 


FRUITS 


Lemon  Snow 


but  unbroken.  Turn  them  out  with 
the  syrup,  and  serve  cold.  Sufficient 
for  half  a dozen  persons. 

Gooseberry  Toast. — Pick  and  clean 
a pint  of  green  gooseberries,  toast  as 
many  slices  of  bread  as  will  fill  a 
deep  dish,  soak  each  piece  in  milk 
or  custard,  sprinkle  one  side  of  each 
with  fine  white  sugar ; have  the  goose- 
berries stewed  for  ten  minutes ; place 
the  first  layer  of  toast  at  the  bottom 
of  the  dish,  cover  it  with  the  fruit, 
add  another  layer  of  toast,  then  of 
fruit,  until  the  dish  is  full.  Put  small 
lumps  of  butter  on  the  top ; bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  a quarter  of  an 
hour,  and  serve  hot. 

Gooseberry  Trifle. — One  quart  of 
green  gooseberries,  one  and  a half  cup- 
fuls of  granulated  sugar,  two  cupfuls 
of  milk,  three  eggs,  one  pint  of  whipped 
cream.  Cook  the  gooseberries  in  a 
double  boiler  until  they  are  soft 
enough  to  rub  through  a colander, 
and  add  one  cupful  of  sugar,  or  more 
if  they  are  very  sour.  While  they  are 
stewing  make  a boiled  custard  of  the 
milk,  eggs,  and  half  a cupful  of  sugar. 
When  the  pulped  gooseberries  are 
cool  pour  them  into  a glass  dish, 
cover  them  with  the  cold  custard,  and 
heap  the  whipped  cream  on  top. 


eggs  and  4 ozs.  of  loaf  sugar;  set 
all  together  over  the  fire  and  stir 
constantly  until  the  mixture  thick- 
ens, but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil. 
Strain  it,  when  cool,  into  glasses. 
Time,  a few  minutes  to  thicken  the 
cream. 

Lemon  Rice.  — Put  the  rind  of  a 
lemon,  I oz.  of  butter,  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  sugar,  five  or  six  bruised 
almonds,  and  a pint  and  a half  of 
milk  into  a saucepan.  When  it  boils, 
stir  in  quickly  % lb.  of  ground  rice 
which  has  been  smoothly  mixed  with 
another  half-pint  of  milk.  Continue 
stirring  until  the  rice  has  boiled  for 
a few  minutes,  and  until  it  leaves 
the  sides  of  the  saucepan  with  the 
spoon;  then  take  out  the  rind,  pour 
the  rice  into  a well-oiled  mould,  and 
put  it  in  a cool  place  to  set.  Cut  the 
rind  of  a lemon  into  strips  an  inch 
long  and  the  eighth  of  an  inch  wide, 
throw  them  into  boiling  water,  let 
them  boil  for  two  minutes,  then  drain 
and  dry  them.  Put  6 ozs.  of  sugar 
into  a pint  of  water,  add  the  juice  of 
the  lemon  and  the  strips  of  rind,  and 
simmer  gently  for  two  hours.  When 
wanted  for  use  turn  out  the  rice,  pour 
the  syrup  gently  over  it,  and  take 
care  that  the  lemon -rind  is  equally 
distributed. 


Grape  Fruit.  — This  fruit  is  also 
called  the  shaddock,  and  its  virtues 
are  not  as  well  known  as  they  ought 
to  be.  It  is  in  season  in  late  autumn 
and  early  winter,  and  is  very  appe- 
tizing when  properly  prepared.  Divide 
it  into  halves  horizontally,  take  out 
the  hard  pith  and  seeds  in  the  middle, 
fill  the  cavities,  and  sprinkle  the 
surface  with  sugar.  Pour  over  each 
half  a table  - spoonful  of  sherry,  if 
liked,  and  let  them  stand  for  several 
hours  before  serving.  They  should 
be  eaten  with  an  orange-spoon. 

Lemon  Creams  (without  cream). — 
Put  the  thin  rinds  of  two  and  the 
strained  juice  of  three  lemons  into  a 
pint  of  water.  Let  them  soak  for  an 
hour  or  two.  Add  six  well -beaten 


Lemon  Snow. — Pour  a pint  of  cold 
water  over  1 oz.  of  gelatine.  Let  it 
soak  for  half  an  hour,  then  put  it 
in  a saucepan  over  the  fire,  with 
Y\  lb.  of  loaf  sugar  and  the  thin  rind 
and  strained  juice  of  two  fresh  lemons. 
Simmer  gently,  stirring  it  all  the 
time  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved ; 
then  pour  it  out,  and  put  it  aside  until 
it  is  cold  and  beginning  to  set.  Stir 
in  the  whites  of  three  well -beaten 
eggs,  and  whisk  all  together  briskly 
until  it  stiffens  and  assumes  the  ap- 
pearance of  snow ; then  pile  it  lightly 
in  a glass  dish,  and  make  it  look  as 
rocky  as  possible.  If  the  uniform 
whiteness  is  objected  to,  half  of  the 
snow  may  be  colored  with  two  or 
three  drops  of  cochineal.  Time  to 
beat  the  snow,  half  an  hour. 

165 


Lemon,  Solid 


FRUITS 


Oranges,  Compote  of 


Lemon,  Solid.  — Rub  the  rind  of  a 
large,  fresh  lemon  with  4 ozs.  of  sugar ; 
crush  the  lumps,  and  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  Yz  oz.  of  gelatine  and 
half  a pint  of  cream.  Heat  gently 
until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved,  then 
a wineglassful  of  brandy.  Stir  the 
mixture  for  three  or  four  minutes, 
add  another  half  - pint  of  cream  and 
strain  it  through  a thick  fold  of 

muslin,  and  when  cold  add  the  juice 
of  half  a lemon.  Pour  it  into  a 

mould  that  has  been  soaked  in  cold 

water,  and  put  it  aside  till  set.  If 

there  is  any  difficulty  in  turning  it 
out,  loosen  the  edges  with  a knife, 
and  dip  the  mould  for  an  instant  in 
hot  water.  Time,  half  an  hour  to 
prepare. 

Lemon  Sponge.  — Put  1 oz.  of 

gelatine  into  a pint  of  water,  add  the 
rind  and  juice  of  two  lemons  and  x/z 
lb.  of  loaf  sugar,  and  simmer  gently 
for  half  an  hour.  Strain  into  a bowl, 
and  when  the  mixture  is  cold  and 
beginning  to  set,  which  may  be 
known  by  its  becoming  thick,  stir 
in  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  to  a 
firm  froth,  and  whisk  it  briskly  until 
it  is  of  the  consistency  of  sponge. 
Pour  it  into  a damp  mould  and  turn 
it  out  before  serving.  A few  drops 
of  cochineal  may  be  put  in  with  the 
eggs,  if  liked,  to  give  a pink  appear- 
ance. Time,  half  an  hour  to  whisk 
the  sponge. 

Lemonade  (for  invalids). — Squeeze 
the  juice  out  of  a fine  lemon.  Strain 
it,  put  it  with  a quarter  of  the  rind 
and  three  or  four  lumps  of  loaf  sugar 
into  a jug,  and  pour  over  it  a pint  of 
boiling  water.  Cover  closely,  and 
let  the  lemonade  stand  for  two  hours. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  strain,  and  it 
will  be  ready  for  use.  Lemonade 
for  invalids  should  be  made  with 
boiling  water,  as  the  unhealthy 
properties  of  the  lemon  are  thus 
destroyed.  A small  quantity  only 
of  sugar  should  be  put  in,  unless  a 
desire  to  the  contrary  is  expressed, 
as  the  acidity  will  most  likely  be 
agreeable. 


Oranges. — Slice  thin  three  oranges, 
cutting  each  slice  in  four  pieces. 
Put  a layer,  with  very  little  pow- 
dered sugar;  cover  with  cracked 
ice,  and  so  on.  Arrange  on  the  top 
a few  maraschino  cherries,  pouring 
over  a gill  of  best  brandy,  and  serve 
with  little  cakes. 

Orange  Calf’s-foot  Jelly.  — Take 
one  pint  of  calf’s-foot  stock,  carefully 
freed  from  fat  and  sediment;  mix 
with  it  half  a pint  of  strained  orange- 
juice,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  the 
whites  and  crushed  shells  of  three 
eggs,  the  thin  rinds  of  two  oranges 
and  one  lemon,  a dessert-spoonful 
of  gelatine,  and  4 ozs.  of  sugar  in 
lumps ; stir  these  gently  over  the 
fire  until  they  are  well  mixed,  but  as 
soon  as  the  liquid  begins  to  heat 
leave  off  stirring,  and  let  the  scum 
rise  undisturbed ; let  the  jelly  simmer 
fifteen  minutes  after  it  has  reached 
the  boiling-point,  then  draw  it  to  the 
side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  stand  to 
settle  fifteen  minutes  longer;  lift 
the  bead  of  scum  off  carefully,  and 
pour  the  jelly  through  a tamis  until 
it  is  quite  clear.  Take  a damp  mould, 
pour  in  a little  of  the  jelly  to  the  depth 
of  half  an  inch,  and  let  it  stand  in  a 
cool  place  until  it  is  stiff;  arrange 
the  quarters  of  an  orange  on  this  in 
the  form  of  a star,  first  freeing  them 
entirely  from  the  thick,  white  skin ; 
pour  the  rest  of  the  jelly  on  them, 
and  set  the  mould  in  a cool  place. 
Turn  it  out  carefully  before  serving. 

Oranges,  Compote  of.  — Pare  the 
rind  very  thinly  off  three  or  four 
large,  sound  oranges.  Cut  the  fruit 
across  into  halves,  removing  the 
white  skin  and  pips,  and  pile  the 
oranges  in  a glass  dish.  Boil  the 
rind  with  half  a pint  of  water  and  % 
lb.  of  sugar  until  the  syrup  is  clear ; 
mix  a table-spoonful  of  brandy  with 
it,  and  strain  it  over  the  fruit.  When 
cold,  it  is  ready  to  serve.  A table- 
spoonful of  arrow-root  may  be  mixed 
with  the  syrup  to  thicken  it,  and  two 
or  three  drops  of  cochineal  may  be 
put  in  by  way  of  coloring.  Time, 


166 


Orange  Float 


FRUITS 


Orange  Paste 


five  or  ten  minutes  to  boil  the 
syrup. 

Orange  Float.  — Squeeze  the  juice 
of  two  lemons  into  a quart  of  cold 
water;  add  a cupful  of  sugar  and  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch,  boiled 
until  thick.  Peel  and  slice  half  a 
dozen  oranges ; pour  the  mixture  over. 
Spread  the  top  with  meringue,  and 
set  on  ice  until  very  cold. 

Oranges  Filled  with  Jelly. — When 
a large  variety  of  dishes  is  required, 
orange-skins  are  sometimes  emptied 
entirely  of  the  fruit,  cut  out  in  the 
shape  of  baskets,  and  filled  with 
bright,  clear  jelly  of  different  colors. 
They  look  pretty ; very  great  care 
and  a sharp  knife,  however,  are  re- 
quired to  make  them.  The  handle 
of  the  basket  should  be  cut  across 
the  stalk  end  of  the  fruit,  and  should 
be  fully  half  an  inch  wide.  The 
basket  part  should  take  up  half  of 
the  orange.  The  best  way  to  make 
these  baskets  is  to  mark  out  their 
shape  first  without  piercing  the  fruit, 
then  take  away  the  quarters  of  the 
rind  which  will  not  be  required,  and 
pass  the  flat  part  of  a teaspoon  care- 
fully under  the  handle  to  separate  it 
from  the  fruit,  which  must  then  be 
pressed  out  through  the  empty  spaces. 
The  jelly  should  be  nearly  cold  before 
it  is  put  into  the  skins. 

Orange -fool. — Strain  the  juice  of 
three  oransres  into  a bowl,  with  three 
well  - beaten  eggs.  Mix  them  thor- 
oughly, grate  half  a small  nutmeg 
over  them,  and  add  a pint  of  thick 
cream,  flavored  and  sweetened  with 
sugar,  which  has  been  rubbed  upon 
lemon-rind.  Put  the  mixture  into  a 
crock,  place  it  in  a pan  of  boiling 
water,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  it 
begins  to  thicken.  Serve  it  in  a glass 
dish,  with  a little  sifted  sugar  strewn 
over  it.  Time,  a quarter  of  an  hour 
to  thicken  the  mixture. 

Oranges,  Iced.  — These  make  a 
very  ornamental  dish,  and  can  be 
used  to  decorate  other  dishes.  About 


eight  fine,  sweet  oranges  should  be 
peeled  and  quartered,  and  a soft  icing 
made  of  2 lbs.  of  powdered  sugar  and 
the  whites  of  two  eggs.  Each  section 
should  be  thoroughly  dipped  until 
covered  with  icing,  and  then  strung 
on  a thread  and  suspended  in  the 
oven  to  dry.  Care  must  be  taken 
not  to  have  enough  heat  to  brown 
them;  and  if  not  thoroughly  covered 
they  should  be  redipped;  they  will 
pay  for  the  trouble. 

Oranges,  Jellied. — Dissolve  half  a 
box  of  gelatine.  Take  ten  oranges, 
and  cut  from  the  top  of  each  a round 
piece  large  enough  to  admit  a spoon, 
and  remove  the  pulp  with  a knife  or 
spoon.  Take  care  not  to  break  the 
peel.  Keep  the  shells  in  cold  water 
until  they  are  required.  Mince  the 
pulp,  removing  the  seeds  and  stringy 
portions.  Add  two  small  cupfuls  of 
sugar  to  the  soaked  gelatine,  the 
juice  of  one  lemon,  and  one  pint  of 
boiling  water.  When  the  sugar  and 
gelatine  are  entirely  dissolved,  turn 
the  mixture  over  the  orange-juice  and 
pulp  (a  little  wine  may  be  added  if 
desired),  and  when  it  becomes  cold 
and  will  just  pour,  fill  the  orange- 
shells  with  it  and  place  them  in  a flat 
pan  and  pack  ice  around  them. 

Orange  and  Lemon-juice  for  Colds 

(invalid  cookery). — Orange  or  lemon- 
juice,  strained  and  boiled,  with  an 
equal  weight  of  loaf  sugar,  and  then 
bottled  and  corked  closely,  will  prove 
an  agreeable  and  valuable  addition 
to  gruel  and  other  warm  drinks  which 
are  required  for  invalids.  Time,  fifteen 
minutes  to  boil.  Sufficient,  a dessert- 
spoonful of  lemon-juice  to  half  a pint 
of  gruel. 

Orange  Paste.  — Pare  the  yellow 
rind  from  the  oranges,  and  be  careful 
not  to  take  with  it  the  white,  thin  skin 
which  covers  the  fruit.  Throw  the 
rinds  into  boiling  water,  and  let  them 
keep  boiling  until  they  are  quite  ten- 
der; then  place  them  upon  an  in- 
verted sieve,  and,  as  soon  as  the 
water  has  run  from  them,  pound 


167 


Orange  Snow-balls 


FRUITS 


Peaches,  Baked 


them  in  a mortar  with  as  much  pow- 
dered sugar  as  they  will  take.  Roll 
the  paste  out  to  the  thickness  of  a 
quarter  of  an  inch,  stamp  it  into 
shapes  with  an  ordinary  pastry- 
cutter,  and  put  these  upon  buttered 
paper  in  a very  slow  oven.  When 
they  are  dry  on  one  side,  turn  them 
to  the  other.  Put  them  in  a tin  box 
between  sheets  of  writing-paper,  and 
store  in  a warm  place.  Time,  about 
two  hours  to  boil  the  rind. 

Orange  Snow-balls. — Throw  Yz  lb. 
of  rice  loose  into  a saucepan  of  boiling 
water,  and  boil  it  quickly  for  five 
minutes.  Peel  four  sweet  oranges, 
and  carefully  remove  the  thick,  white 
skin  without  injuring  the  fruit.  Drain 
the  rice,  and  when  it  is  cool  spread  it 
out  in  four  equal  parts  on  four  small 
pudding-cloths.  Place  one  of  the 
pared  oranges  on  each  of  these,  gather 
the  cloth  carefully  round  it,  and  tie 
it  securely.  Plunge  the  dumplings 
into  boiling  water,  and  let  them  re- 
main on  the  fire  until  done  enough. 
Turn  them  out  carefully,  sprinkle 
powdered  sugar  over  them,  and 
send  orange -sauce  to  table  with 
them.  Time  to  boil,  one  hour  and  a 
half. 

Orange  Sponge. — The  juice  of  six 
large  oranges,  one  scant  pint  of  cold 
water,  four  eggs,  one  cupful  of  sugar, 
and  half  a package  of  gelatine.  Soak 
the  gelatine  in  half  a cupful  of  the 
cold  water.  Squeeze  the  oranges 
and  strain  the  juice  on  the  sugar. 
Add  the  remainder  of  the  water  to 
the  beaten  eggs,  and  cook  these  with 
the  sugar  and  orange-juice  in  the 
double  boiler  until  it  begins  to  thicken. 
Add  the  gelatine,  strain  into  a tin 
basin,  which  place  in  a pan  of  ice- 
water.  Stir  this  mixture  occasional- 
ly, and,  when  cool,  add  the  unbeaten 
whites  of  the  eggs.  Now  beat  the 
whole  continuously  until  it  begins 
to  thicken,  and  when  barely  thick 
enough  to  pour  turn  it  into  moulds 
and  set  on  the  ice  to  harden. 
Serve  with  powdered  sugar  and 
cream. 


Oranges  in  Syrup.  — Peel  four  or 

five  large  oranges,  and  remove  all 
the  white  pith  without  injuring  in  the 
slightest  degree  the  thin,  transparent 
skin  which  covers  the  fruit.  Boil  Yz 
lb.  of  loaf  sugar  in  a quarter  of  a pint 
of  water  to  a clear  syrup,  add  a wine- 
glassful  of  maraschino  or  any  other 
liqueur  or  spirit  that  may  be  pre- 
ferred, and  pour  the  hot  liquid  over 
the  oranges.  Let  them  remain  for 
three  or  four  hours,  then  turn  them 
over ; boil  the  syrup  up  once  more, 
and  pour  it  again  upon  the  oranges. 
Serve  in  a compote  dish  and  garnish 
with  sprigs  of  myrtle.  The  quan- 
tity of  sugar  used  for  the  syrup  must 
depend  upon  the  season,  and  if  it  is 
early  in  the  winter,  and  the  oranges 
are  sour,  a larger  proportion  of  sugar 
should  be  used,  and  besides  this  the 
oranges  should  be  boiled  in  the  syrup 
for  a few  minutes.  Time,  ten  min- 
utes to  boil  the  syrup. 

Oranges,  Moulded.  — This  dish, 
though  very  pretty,  is  rather  diffi- 
cult to  prepare.  Peel  three  or  four 
large  oranges,  being  careful  not  to 
break  the  thin  inner  skin.  Oil  a 
small,  plain  mould  thoroughly.  Boil 
Y\  lb.  of  loaf  sugar  in  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  water  to  crackling  height, 
dip  the  edges  of  the  orange  sections 
into  this,  arrange  them  in  layers 
round  the  sides  only  of  the  mould, 
and  fasten  them  together  wi„th  the 
sugar.  When  they  are  firm,  turn 
them  on  a dish,  and  fill  the  centre 
with  whipped  cream.  Time,  ten  or 
twelve  minutes  to  boil  the  sugar. 

Peaches,  Baked. — Pare  and  halve 
a few  good,  firm  peaches.  Remove 
the  stones,  and  place  each  half-peach 
on  a round  piece  of  buttered  toast. 
Fill  the  cavity  made  by  the  stone  with 
a generous  piece  of  butter,  and  cover 
the  peach  with  powdered  sugar. 
Now  sprinkle  the  sugar  with  lemon- 
juice  and  a little  nutmeg,  and  put 
in  the  oven  on  an  earthenware  dish 
for  twentj^  minutes.  Serve  hot  with 
cream.  Apples  may  be  treated  in  the 
same  manner. 

1 68 


Peaches,  Compote  of 


FRUITS 


Peach  Trifle 


Peaches,  Compote  of. — Divide  six 
or  eight  ripe  peaches  into  halves. 
Make  a syrup,  by  boiling  6 ozs.  of 
loaf  sugar  in  half  a pint  of  water  for 
eight  minutes.  Put  in  the  fruit,  and 
let  it  simmer  gently  for  five  minutes. 
Drain  the  peaches  from  the  syrup, 
take  off  their  skins,  and  put  them 
into  a compote  dish.  Add  to  the 
syrup  a dessert-spoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  or,  if  procurable,  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  red-currant  juice.  When 
lemon -juice  is  used,  two  or  three 
drops  of  cochineal  should  also  be 
added,  to  color  the  syrup  slightly. 
Let  it  boil  three  or  four  minutes  longer, 
then  pour  it  over  the  peaches.  Blanch 
three  or  four  of  the  kernels,  split  them 
in  four,  and  place  a quarter  here  and 
there  upon  the  fruit.  Serve  either 
hot  or  cold.  Time,  twenty  minutes. 

Another  way  : — Cut  the  pared 
peaches  in  halves,  put  in  the  sauce- 
pan, allow  them  to  become  heated 
through  in  their  own  juice,  with  four 
table  - spoonfuls  of  sugar  sprinkled 
over.  Moisten  one  table-spoonful  of 
corn-starch  with  cold  water,  add  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  lemon-juice  and  one 
egg,  very  lightly  whipped.  Put  the 
peaches  on  squares  of  sponge  cake, 
hollow  side  up.  Take  the  syrup  of 
their  juice  and  mix  the  corn-starch, 
etc.,  in  it.  Place  on  the  stove  and  al- 
low them  to  bubble  up  together,  and 
when  slightly  cooled  pour  over  the 
peaches ; put  in  a cool  place.  The 
syrup  will  jelly  all  about  the  fruit 
and  form  a delicious  dessert.  Serve 
with  plain  cream.  This  may  be  pre- 
pared an  hour  or  two  before  dinner. 

Peaches,  Flanc  of. — Make  % lb.  of 
good  short  crust,  and  roll  it  out  until 
it  is  half  an  inch  thick.  Butter  well 
the  inside  of  a mould  and  line  it  with 
the  crust,  pressing  the  crust  so  that 
it  may  take  the  form  of  the  mould. 
Pinch  the  part  that  rises  above  the 
mould  with  the  pincers,  fill  the  case 
with  flour,  and  bake  in  a moderate 
oven.  When  the  crust  is  firm,  re- 
move the  flour,  carefully  take  the 
case  out  of  the  mould,  and  put  it  into 
the  oven  a few  minutes  longer  to  dry. 


Divide  a dozen  peaches  into  halves, 
boil  them  until  tender  in  a syrup 
made  of  6 ozs.  of  loaf  sugar  and  half 
a pint  of  water.  When  they  are 
sufficiently  cooked,  lift  them  out  one 
by  one  and  put  them  into  the  case. 
Boil  the  syrup  a few  minutes  longer, 
add  a table-spoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
color  with  a little  cochineal,  let  it 
cool,  then  pour  it  over  the  fruit.  A 
few  of  the  kernels,  blanched  and 
quartered,  may  be  introduced,  if 
liked.  Time,  about  one  hour  to  bake 
the  flanc ; twenty  minutes  to  pre- 
pare the  fruit. 

Peach  Float.  — Dissolve  a box  of 
gelatine  in  a teacupful  of  cold  water ; 
then  boil  three  pints  of  milk  with 
two-thirds  of  a cupful  of  sugar.  Take 
enough  of  the  hot  milk  to  dissolve 
the  gelatine  thoroughly ; then  let  all 
boil  together  for  ten  minutes.  Have 
ready  a dozen  large  or  a dozen  and 
a half  medium -sized  peaches,  pared 
and  sliced.  When  the  mixture  is 
nearly  cool,  but  not  stiff,  stir  them 
in  and  set  on  the  ice.  Serve  with 
cream. 

Peach  Jelly.  — Peel,  divide,  and 
stone  a dozen  ripe  peaches,  and  boil 
them  and  the  bruised  kernels  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  in  a thin  syrup 
made  of  io  ozs.  of  sugar  and  half  a 
pint  of  water.  Flavor  the  syrup  with 
the  grated  rind  and  strained  juice  of 
four  lemons,  strain  it  through  a jelly- 
bag,  and  add  to  it  I oz.  of  dissolved 
gelatine.  Pour  it  into  a mould, 
which  should  be  set  upon  ice  until 
the  jelly  is  sufficiently  stiff  to  turn 
out.  The  fruit  from  which  this 
jelly  is  made  may  be  served  as  a 
compote,  with  a little  red  - currant 
juice  added  to  the  syrup.  Time,  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  to  simmer  the 
fruit. 

Peach  Trifle.  — Two  cups  of  milk, 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  three 
eggs,  one  small,  stale  sponge  cake, 
peaches  peeled  and  sliced.  Make  a 
boiled  custard  of  the  milk,  yolks  of 
eggs,  and  half  the  sugar.  Slice  the 


Peaches,  Sugared 


FRUITS 


Pears,  Compote  of 


cake,  lay  it  in  the  bottom  of  a glass 
dish,  and  heap  it  with  the  sliced 
peaches,  strewing  these  plentifully 
with  sugar.  Beat  the  whites  to  a 
meringue  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
sugar,  and  cover  the  peaches  with 
this.  Have  all  the  ingredients  very 
cold  before  mixing  them. 

Peaches,  Sugared.  — Choose  ripe 
and  firm  peaches;  peel,  quarter,  and 
drop  for  an  hour  into  clear  lime- 
water.  Rinse  in  clear  water,  weigh 
and  pack  down  in  a stone  jar  with 
three-quarters  their  own  weight  of 
granulated  sugar,  throwing  in  with 
the  fruit  a handful  or  two  of  the  seed, 
and  leave  till  next  day.  Take  for 
each  pound  of  fruit  x/z  oz.  of  race- 
ginger,  well  bruised,  and  the  strained 
juice  and  yellow  rind  of  a lemon. 
Put  the  lemon-rind  with  the  ginger. 

Peaches,  Vol-au-vent  of. — Take  as 
much  fine  puff  paste  as  is  required 
for  the  size  of  a vol-au-vent.  It 
should  be  the  exact  size  and  shape 
of  the  inside  of  the  dish  on  which 
it  is  intended  to  be  served.  Roll 
it  out  to  the  thickness  of  an  inch  and  a 
quarter,  and  stamp  the  cover  on  the 
top.  Bake  in  a brisk  oven.  If  the 
pastry  has  been  properly  made  it  will 
rise  in  the  oven  until  it  is  about  five 
inches  in  height ; when  it  has  done  so, 
and  is  lightly  colored,  take  it  out, 
remove  the  lid,  and  scoop  out  the 
inside.  Have  as  many  peaches  as 
will  be  required  to  fill  the  empty 
space,  already  cut  into  halves  and 
stewed  in  syrup  until  they  are  tender 
but  unbroken.  Put  them  into  the 
vol-au-vent,  boil  the  syrup  quickly 
for  a few  minutes  until  it  is  very 
thick,  pour  it  upon  the  peaches,  and 
serve  the  vol-au-vent  on  a neatly 
folded  napkin.  Time  to  bake  a 
moderate-sized  vol-au-vent — say  one 
made  with  % lb.  of  puff  paste — about 
twenty-five  minutes. 

Pears,  Baked. — Pare  very  smooth- 
ly a dozen  large  baking  pears.  Cut 
them  into  halves,  take  out  the  cores, 
and  put  them  side  by  side  into  a sauce- 


pan with  a closely  fitting  cover. 
Pour  over  them  as  much  cold  water 
as  will  cover  them,  add  the  thin  rind 
of  a small  lemon,  a table  - spoonful 
of  strained  lemon -juice,  an  inch  of 
stick  cinnamon,  and  fifteen  grains  of 
allspice.  Put  on  the  cover,  place  the 
dish  in  a gentle  oven,  and  let  it  re- 
main there  until  the  pears  are  tender. 
A little  white  wine  may  be  added,  if 
liked.  If  a saucepan  such  as  is 
described  is  used,  no  cochineal  will 
be  required  for  the  syrup.  Time  to 
bake,  six  hours. 

Pear  Charlotte. — Peel  and  core  a 
dozen  pears,  cut  them  into  quarters, 
dip  them  into  finely  powdered  sugar, 
and  shake  them  over  the  fire  in 
a little  clarified  butter  until  they  are 
tender;  then  drain  them  well.  Cut 
three  or  four  slices  of  crumb  of  bread 
the  third  of  an  inch  thick.  Line  a 
plain,  round  mould  with  these,  first 
cutting  out  a small  round  for  the 
bottom,  and  then  cutting  the  rest  into 
fingers,  which  must  be  placed  round 
the  mould  overlapping  each  other. 
Dip  the  bread  into  clarified  butter 
before  putting  it  into  the  mould. 
Fill  the  mould  with  the  cooked  pears, 
cover  the  top  with  slices  of  bread 
dipped  in  butter,  and  place  the  dish 
in  a brisk  oven  until  the  bread  is 
lightly  browned.  If  the  oven  be  not 
sufficiently  brisk  the  bread  will  not 
color  properly,  nor  will  the  charlotte 
preserve  its  form.  Turn  the  charlotte 
out  of  the  mould,  and  brush  it  over 
with  apricot  jam,  or  sift  powdered 
sugar  thickly  over  it.  Time  to  bake, 
from  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  an 
hour. 

Pears,  Compote  of.  — When  ripe, 
juicy  pears  are  used  for  making 
compotes  they  should  be  stewed  whole, 
but  when  hard  baking  pears  only  are 
to  be  had  it  is  best  to  cut  them  into 
halves  or  quarters,  reserving  only  one 
large  piece  to  put  in  the  centre.  Peel 
the  pears,  and  put  them  into  the  syrup. 
The  proportion  of  sugar  used  will 
depend  upon  the  quality  of  the  pears. 
Put  with  them  a few  drops  of  prepared 


170 


Pears,  Frosted  or  Iced 


FRUITS 


Pears,  Stewed 


cochineal,  and  either  a strip  of  lemon- 
rind,  a quarter  of  a stick  of  vanilla, 
or  a few  cloves.  Simmer  very  gently 
until  they  are  quite  tender  without 
being  broken,  then  drain  them  well, 
put  them  on  a dish,  boil  the  syrup 
quickly  until  it  is  thick ; when  it  is 
cold,  and  just  before  the  compote  is  to 
be  served,  strain,  and  pour  the  syrup 
over  the  fruit.  The  pears  are  to  be 
boiled  until  tender. 

Pears,  Frosted  or  Iced.  — Take 
half  a dozen  large  pears,  which  have 
been  stewed  whole  in  syrup.  Dry 
them  well,  then  cover  them  smoothly 
and  evenly  with  a white  icing  made 
as  follows : Beat  the  white  of  an 

egg  to  a firm  froth,  add  % lb.  of  pow- 
dered and  sifted  sugar,  a table-spoon- 
ful of  lemon-juice,  and  a few  drops 
of  cold  water,  and  beat  the  mixture 
thoroughly  until  it  forms  a very  thick, 
smooth  liquid.  When  the  pears  are 
covered,  set  them  in  a warm  place,  or 
in  a cool  oven,  to  stiffen  the  icing. 


Pears  in  Jelly. — Peel  six  or  eight 
large  pears,  cut  them  into  halves, 
take  out  the  cores,  and  throw  them 
as  they  are  done  into  cold  water  to 
keep  them  from  becoming  discolored. 
Put  them  into  a saucepan  with  as 
much  syrup  as  will  cover  them,  and 
let  them  stew  gently  until  they  are 
tender  but  unbroken.  The  quantity 
of  sugar  put  into  the  syrup  will  de- 
pend ixpon  the  quality  of  the  pears, 
as  some  are  naturally  much  sweeter 
than  others.  When  sufficiently 
cooked,  drain  the  pears  from  the 
syrup,  brush  them  over  with  the 
beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  sprinkle  pow- 
dered and  sifted  sugar  thickly  over 
them,  and  arrange  them  on  a glass 
dish.  Supposing  there  is  a pint  and 
a half  of  syrup,  dissolve  in  it  I oz.  of 
gelatine  which  has  been  soaked  in 
as  much  cold  water  as  will  cover  it 
for  one  hour.  Add  half  a pint  of 
boiling  water,  color  with  two  or  three 
drops  of  cochineal,  and  strain  it 
through  a jelly- bag  over  the  pears. 
Put  the  dish  into  a cool  place,  and 


when  the  jelly  is  quite  stiff  it  is  ready 
for  serving.  Time,  about  one  hour 
to  stew  the  pears. 

Pears,  Meringue  of. — Pare,  core, 
and  halve  a dozen  pears,  and  stew 
them  in  syrup  until  they  are  suffi- 
ciently tender  to  be  pierced  easily 
with  a needle  ; put  them  into  a deep 
tart-dish  which  they  will  almost  fill, 
and  boil  the  syrup  quickly  until  it  is 
so  much  reduced  that,  when  poured 
over  the  pears,  it  will  only  half  cover 
them.  Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs 
to  a solid  froth.  Stir  into  them  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  and  sifted 
sugar,  and  spread  the  mixture  evenly 
and  smoothly  over  the  fruit;  put  it  at 
once  into  a moderate  oven  and  bake 
until  the  crust  is  lightly  colored  and 
crisp  even  in  the  middle.  Time  to 
bake,  half  an  hour. 

Pears  with  Rice. — Wash  6 ozs.  of 
rice  in  two  or  three  waters,  put  it  into 
a saucepan  with  a quart  of  milk, 
some  white  sugar,  and  let  it  simmer 
gently  for  an  hour.  Add  essence  of 
vanilla,  turn  it  upon  a hot  dish,  and 
lay  upon  it  four  or  five  good  baking 
pears  which  have  been  cored,  halved, 
and  stewed  until  quite  tender  with 
three  pints  of  water,  4 ozs.  of  sugar, 
and  a quarter  of  a stick  of  vanilla. 
Boil  the  syrup  in  which  the  pears 
were  stewed  very  quickly  for  a few 
minutes  to  thicken  it,  and  pour  it 
over  the  rice.  Serve  either  hot  or 
cold.  Time,  one  hour  and  a half  or 
more  to  stew  the  pears. 

Pears,  Stewed.  — Pare,  core,  and 
halve  eight  or  ten  good-sized  pears, 
leaving  on  the  stalks  or  not,  accord- 
ing to  taste ; put  them  in  a saucepan, 
with  6 ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  six  cloves, 
six  whole  allspice,  three-quarters  of 
a pint  of  water,  and  a glassful  of 
port,  and  let  them  boil  as  gently  as 
possible  until  they  are  quite  soft 
without  being  broken.  Lift  them 
out,  put  them  on  a glass  dish,  and 
when  the  syrup  is  cold  strain  it  over 
them.  A little  cream,  or,  failing  this, 
a little  custard,  is  a great  improve- 


171 


Pears  Stewed  in  Butter  FRUITS 


Pineapple  Glace 


ment  to  this  dish.  Time  to  stew 
the  pears,  from  two  and  a half  to 
three  hours. 

Pears  Stewed  in  Butter.  — Take 
half  a dozen  large  baking  pears, 
pare  and  core  without  breaking  them, 
and  fill  the  cavity  in  each  with  a 
clove  crushed  to  powder,  a little  moist 
sugar,  and  a small  lump  of  butter. 
Put  them  into  a stewpan  with  the 
stalk  ends  uppermost,  and  pour  over 
them  3 ozs.  of  clarified  butter ; cover 
the  saucepan  closely,  and  let  them 
stew  gently  until  they  are  quite  soft 
without  being  broken ; then  lift  them 
out  carefully,  fill  the  hollows  with 
red -currant  jelly,  and  arrange  the 
pears  on  a dish,  with  the  narrow 
parts  meeting  in  the  centre.  Pile 
half  a dozen  macaroons  which  have 
been  soaked  in  sherry  in  the  centre 
of  the  fruit,  pour  the  syrup  round  it, 
and  serve.  Time  to  stew  the  pears, 
about  one  hour. 

Pineapple  (to  cut  for  serving).  — 
Pare  a pineapple  so  that  the  fruit 
shall  be  wasted  as  little  as  possi- 
ble, and  in  order  to  do  this  notch  it 
in  and  out,  and  carefully  remove  all 
the  specks  and  eyes.  Pick  the  fruit 
from  the  core  with  a silver  fork  in 
pieces  as  large  as  a bean,  and  place 
the  dish  which  contains  it  on  ice 
until  it  is  wanted.  Sugar  may  be 
strewed  over  the  fruit  or  not.  It 
draws  out  the  juice,  which  is  not  al- 
ways desired. 

Pineapple  (served  whole). — Where 
the  pineapple  is  very  fine  and  ripe, 
it  may  be  brought  to  the  table  whole  ; 
it  is  a pretty  dish,  and  can  be  served 
by  digging  out  the  eyes,  one  or  two 
at  a time,  with  a cheese  - scoop  or 
pointed  spoon.  The  sections  will  be 
found  to  run  clear  to  the  centre,  and 
will  split  as  readily  as  those  of  an 
orange.  This  method  of  serving 
pineapple  is  that  always  used  in 
England  for  the  fine  hot-house  fruit, 
which  usually  costs  from  four  to  six 
dollars.  Pineapple  thus  served  is 
eaten  by  holding  it  in  the  hand  and 


dipping  the  pieces  in  sugar,  in  the 
manner  familiar  to  us  for  straw- 
berries. 

Pineapple,  Compote  of.  — Peel  a 

pineapple,  and  pick  all  the  specks  or 
eyes  from  it;  cut  it  into  slices  half 
an  inch  thick,  keep  one  of  the  largest 
of  these  whole,  and  divide  the  rest 
into  halves.  Make  some  syrup  by 
boiling  5 ozs.  of  lump  sugar  in  half  a 
pint  of  water  for  ten  minutes,  put  in 
the  slices  of  fruit,  and  let  them  boil 
for  five  minutes.  Leave  them  in  the 
syrup  until  they  are  quite  cold ; drain 
them ; put  the  whole  slice  in  the  cen- 
tre of  a compote -dish  and  arrange 
the  half  slices  in  a circle  round  it; 
pour  the  syrup  over,  and  serve.  Time 
to  boil  the  syrup,  ten  minutes ; with 
the  fruit,  five  minutes. 

Pineapple  Glac6  (for  dessert).  — 
Take  some  slices  of  pineapple  and 
boil  them  in  syrup  as  if  for  a com- 
pote. Let  them  remain  in  the  syrup 
until  cold,  then  drain  them  entirely 
from  it ; put  a skewer  half-way  through 
each  slice,  and  place  them  in  a hot 
screen  to  dry.  Prepare  some  sugar 
as  follows  : Dissolve  I lb.  of  sugar  in 
a pint  of  water,  put  it  over  a quick 
fire,  skim  carefully,  and  boil  it  until 
it  has  reached  the  third,  or  feathered, 
degree.  When  it  is  almost  done,  stir 
it  lightly  for  a minute  or  two,  and 
press  the  side  of  the  pan  with  the 
spoon.  In  order  to  ascertain  when 
the  sugar  has  reached  the  proper 
stage,  dip  in  the  skimmer,  shake  it, 
and  give  it  a sudden  toss.  If  done 
enough,  the  sugar  will  fly  off  like 
snow-flakes.  When  the  precise  point 
is  reached  (a  few  seconds  will  make  a 
difference),  put  in  the  slices  of  pine- 
apple by  means  of  the  skewers,  cover 
them  entirely  with  the  sugar,  and 
then  place  them  on  a wire  fruit-drain- 
er. In  about  ten  minutes,  if  the  op- 
eration has  been  successful,  it  ought 
to  be  possible  to  draw  away  the  fruit 
without  disturbing  the  sugar,  by  press- 
ing it  with  the  fingers  from  beneath. 
Time  to  dry  the  fruit,  about  an 
hour. 


172 


Plums,  Compote  of 


FRUITS 


Prunes,  Stewed 


Plums,  Compote  of.  — Boil  half  a 
pint  of  water  with  from  6 to  10  ozs. 
of  loaf  sugar  for  ten  minutes.  Put 
in  I lb.  of  plums,  and  let  them  simmer 
until  they  are  tender  without  being 
broken.  Lift  them  out,  place  them 
on  a compote  dish,  and  pour  the 
syrup  over  them.  The  amount  of 
sugar  used,  and  the  length  of  time 
the  fruit  is  boiled,  must  be  regulated 
by  the  quality  of  the  plums. 

Plums,  Dried,  Stewed  (for  dessert). 
— Put  them  into  a saucepan  with  the 
water  in  which  they  were  soaked, 
and  let  them  simmer  gently  for  an 
hour.  Lift  out  the  fruit,  strain  the 
liquid,  and  make  a syrup  of  it  by  boil- 
ing with  it  4 ozs.  of  loaf  sugar.  When 
it  is  quite  clear,  put  in  the  plums, 
the  rind  and  juice  of  half  a lemon, 
and  a glass  of  port.  Stew  gently  for 
an  hour  and  a half.  When  the  prep- 
aration is  cold,  put  the  plums  into  a 
glass  dish,  pour  the  syrup  over  them, 
and  serve.  Time,  two  hours  and  a half. 

Plum  Loaf,  Plain.  — Put  2 lbs. 
of  best  flour  into  a bowl,  and  mix 
with  it  half  a teaspoonful  of  salt, 
Yz  lb.  of  picked  and  dried  currants, 
4 ozs.  of  moist  sugar,  and  half  a nut- 
meg, grated.  Dissolve  Yz  oz.  of  yeast 
very  gradually  in  three-quarters  of  a 
pint  of  lukewarm  milk,  in  which  has 
been  dissolved  4 ozs.  of  butter  or  good 
beef  dripping.  Stir  this  into  the 
flour,  and  knead  it  to  a smooth  dough. 
Put  a cover  over  the  bowl,  and  set  it  to 
rise  for  about  an  hour.  Make  it  up 
into  a loaf,  put  it  into  a buttered 
tin,  and  bake  in  a moderate  oven. 
If  preferred,  a table-spoonful  of  solid 
brewer’s  yeast  or  two  dessert-spoon- 
fuls of  baking-powder  may  be  used 
instead  of  the  yeast.  In  order  to 
ascertain  whether  the  loaf  is  suf- 
ficiently baked,  put  a skewer  into  it; 
if  it  comes  out  clean  and  dry,  the 
cake  is  dope.  It  is  perhaps  a better 
plan  to  knead  in  the  sugar,  currants, 
and  spice  after  the  dough  has  risen. 

Plum  Lozenges  (for  dessert). — Put 
I lb.  of  ripe  and  sound  plums  into 


a jar,  and  place  them  in  a saucepan 
of  boiling  water  over  the  fire  until 
they  are  so  soft  that  the  stones  can 
be  removed.  While  this  is  being  done, 
soften  in  the  same  way  Y*  lb.  of  cored 
and  sliced  apples.  Turn  both  plums 
and  apples  into  a preserving -pan. 
Put  with  them  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon  and  lb*  of  sugar,  and  boil 
quickly  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Stir  well,  to  keep  the  fruit  from  burn- 
ing. Pour  the  paste  upon  shallow 
dishes,  and  when  it  is  cold  cut  it  into 
lozenges,  and  dry  these  on  a sieve 
before  the  fire. 

Plum  Vol-au-vent. — Boil  6 ozs. 
of  loaf  sugar  in  half  a pint  of  water 
for  ten  minutes.  Take  off  the  stalks 
from  1 lb.  of  plums,  wash  and  drain 
them,  and  then  put  them  into  the 
syrup.  Let  them  boil  up  once,  then 
draw  the  saucepan  to  the  side,  and 
simmer  them  very  gently  for  about 
three  minutes,  or  until  they  are  quite 
tender  without  being  broken.  Lift 
the  plums  out  carefully,  boil  the  syrup 
until  it  is  considerably  reduced  and 
very  thick,  strain  it,  and  when  cold 
pour  it  over  the  fruit.  Plums  pre- 
pared in  this  way  may  be  used  for 
large  and  small  vol-au-vents.  The 
fruit  should  not  be  put  into  the  pastry 
until  the  moment  before  it  is  to  be 
served. 

Prunes  and  Prunelloes.  — Prunes 
and  prunelloes  are  a sort  of  dried 
plums,  of  which  there  are  many  vari- 
eties. The  finest  prunes  come  from 
France  and  California.  Prunes,  when 
stewed,  form  an  excellent  article  of 
diet  for  convalescents  or  persons  in 
delicate  health,  as  they  act  as  gentle 
laxatives. 

Prunes,  Stewed  (for  dessert).  — 
Wash  the  prunes,  ami  let  them  soak 
all  night  in  as  mucli  water  as  will 
cover  them.  Lift  them  out  and  let  the 
liquid  stand  a little  while,  then  drain 
it  from  the  sediment,  and  put  it  into 
a stewpan  with  a small  quantity  of 
sugar,  if  desired,  and  a little  lemon- 
rind  and  cinnamon  for  flavoring. 


173 


Prune  Whip 


FRUITS 


Raspberry  Meringue 


Stew  gently  for  half  an  hour.  If 
desired,  add  wine — port  is  the  most 
suitable  for  the  purpose — and  stew 
twenty  minutes  longer;  serve  cold  in 
a glass  dish. 

Prune  Whip.  — One  pound  of 
prunes,  the  whites  of  four  eggs,  two- 
thirds  of  a cup  of  sugar,  one-half  pint 
of  cream,  and  the  juice  of  half  a lemon. 
Soak  and  wash  the  prunes,  stew  till 
soft,  and  add  sugar  while  cooking; 
when  done,  take  from  the  fire,  let 
them  get  cold,  and  remove  the  pits. 
Whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a stiff 
froth,  add  the  prunes  and  lemon- 
juice,  beat  all  together  for  fifteen 
minutes  ; put  into  a pudding-dish  and 
bake  for  twenty  minutes  in  a moderate 
oven  till  a light  brown.  When  cold, 
serve  with  the  cream  and  a little 
sugar,  whipped  light. 

Quinces,  Baked. — Wash  and  core 
ripe  quinces,  fill  with  sugar,  and  bake 
in  a baking-dish  with  a little  water. 
Serve  hot  or  cold  with  cream  and 
sugar. 

Quince  Juice.  — Pare,  core,  and 
quarter  some  very  ripe  quinces. 
Put  them  into  an  earthen  jar,  with  a 
pint  of  cold  water  for  each  pound  of 
fruit.  Cover  the  jar  closely,  place  it 
in  a saucepan  of  water,  and  let  the 
fruit  steam  gently  until  it  is  broken. 
Then  lift  the  jar  out  of  the  water, 
remove  the  cover,  and  leave  the  fruit 
untouched  until  the  next  day.  Turn 
it  into  a jelly-bag,  and  strain  the 
juice  until  it  is  clear  and  bright, 
when  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  If 
the  quinces  are  allowed  to  boil  too 
long  their  color  will  be  spoiled. 

Raspberry  Biscuits.  — Pick  and 
weigh  some  fine,  ripe  raspberries,  put 
them  in  an  earthen  jar,  set  this  in  a 
pan  of  boiling  water,  and  keep  it 
boiling  until  the  juice  flows  freely. 
Pass  juice  and  pulp  through  a sieve, 
mix  with  it  the  weight  of  the  fruit — 
before  it  was  put  into  the  oven — 
in  pounded  sugar,  and  boil  briskly, 
beating  it  well  all  the  time  until  it 


forms  a dry  paste,  and  be  very  care- 
ful that  it  does  not  burn.  Put  it  into 
small  moulds  about  half  an  inch 
thick ; dry  these  in  a hot  screen  or  a 
cool  oven  for  twenty-four  hours  or 
more,  and  store  for  use.  Raspberry 
biscuit  are  used  for  dessert.  Time, 
about  three  hours. 

Raspberries,  Compote  of. — Pick  a 
pint  of  freshly  gathered  and  perfectly 
sound  raspberries,  or,  if  preferred,  take 
half  a pint  of  raspberries  and  half  a 
pint  of  red  currants.  Boil  5 ozs.  of 
loaf  sugar  in  a quarter  of  a pint  of 
water  for  ten  minutes,  put  in  the 
picked  fruit,  and  let  it  simmer  gently 
for  six  minutes.  Lift  the  raspberries 
out  carefully  and  put  them  into  a 
glass  dish.  Let  the  syrup  boil  a 
minute  longer  and  when  it  is  cold 
pour  it  over  the  fruit.  Serve  as  an 
accompaniment  to  simple  milk  pud- 
dings of  various  kinds.  Time,  twenty 
minutes. 

Raspberries,  Iced  (for  dessert). — 
Beat  the  white  of  an  egg,  and  stir  in 
with  it  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold 
water.  Dip  the  raspberries  one  by 
one  in  the  liquor,  drain  them,  and 
roll  them  in  finely  powdered  and  sifted 
sugar.  Lay  them  on  paper  to  dry, 
and  arrange  them  with  other  fruits 
in  a dessert  dish.  Time  to  dry,  six 
or  eight  hours. 

Raspberry  Flummery. — One  quart 
of  red  raspberries,  one  small  cupful  of 
pearl  tapioca,  half  a cupful  of  sugar, 
two  cupfuls  of  cold  water,  two  cupfuls 
of  boiling  water.  Soak  the  tapioca 
several  hours  in  the  cold  water,  then 
put  it  on  the  fire  with  the  boiling  water 
and  stir  until  clear.  Add  the  sugar, 
and,  when  the  tapioca  is  lukewarm, 
stir  in  the  berries.  Eat  when  ice- 
cold  with  cream  and  sugar. 

Raspberry  Meringue.  — Line  a 
pie-plate  with  good,  light  pastry  and 
bake  in  a quick  oven.  While  still 
warm,  spread  thickly  with  red  rasp- 
berries. Make  a meringue  of  the 
whites  of  four  eggs  beaten  stiff  with 


174 


FRU  ITS 


Strawberry  Foam 


Raspberries,  Prepared 


a half-cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  and 
when  it  is  a froth  stir  lightly  through 
it  a half-pint  of  raspberries.  Heap 
the  meringue  on  top  of  the  berries  in 
the  pie-plate,  and  brown  very  delicate- 
ly in  the  oven.  Eat  as  soon  as  it  is 
cool. 

Raspberries,  Prepared  (for  dessert). 
— An  hour  before  it  is  to  be  used,  take 
up  the  fruit,  examine  it,  and  carefully 
remove  every  hidl  and  every  im- 
perfect or  decayed  portion.  Have 
ready  a bowl  of  cold  water.  Take  a 
small  handful  of  raspberries  at  a 
time,  and  pass  them  quickly  through 
the  water  without  allowing  them  to 
remain  in  it  for  a second.  Put  them 
into  the  dish  in  which  they  are  to  be 
served,  and  sprinkle  powdered  white 
sugar  plentifully  over  them.  This 
process  will  freshen  the  fruit,  and 
not  do  it  any  harm.  Care  should 
be  taken  not  to  touch  the  fruit  after 
it  has  been  picked  until  within  an 
hour  before  it  is  to  be  served. 

Strawberries  and  Cream.  — Pick 
the  strawberries,  and  remove  every 
imperfect  and  unsound  berry.  Do 
not  wash  them  unless  it  is  absolutely 
necessary.  If,  however,  they  are 
dusty  or  not  quite  fresh,  they  may  be 
cleansed  and  freshened  by  taking 
them  in  handfuls  and  passing  them 
quickly  through  a basin  of  cold  water. 
They  should  not  be  allowed  to  re- 
main in  it  one  instant.  If  the  straw- 
berries have  been  gathered  in  rainy 
weather,  it  is  very  desirable  that  this 
cleansing  process  should  be  perform- 
ed. Strawberries  are  very  delicious 
served  with  thick  cream  and  finely 
powdered  sugar.  These  accompani- 
ments should  be  sent  to  table  separate- 
ly, as  the  sugar,  if  put  upon  them 
even  for  a short  time,  will  draw  out 
their  juice  and  change  their  color. 

Strawberries,  Compote  of. — Take  a 
pint  of  strawberries.  Pick  them,  and 
put  them  into  a bowl.  Pour  over 
them  a little  clear  syrup  which  has 
been  made  by  boiling  a quarter  of  a 
pint  of  water  with  5 ozs.  of  sugar  for 


ten  minutes.  Cover  the  bowl  con- 
taining them  with  a plate,  and  let 
them  stand  for  an  hour  or  more. 
Drain  off  the  syrup ; boil  it  for  a few 
minutes,  skim  it,  and  strain  it  over 
the  strawberries  piled  in  the  centre  of 
a compote-dish.  The  flavor  of  this 
dish  will  be  greatly  improved  if  a 
wineglassful  of  red- currant  juice  is 
added  to  the  syrup.  When  it  is  at 
hand,  a glass  of  maraschino  may 
also  be  added  with  advantage.  For 
a superlative  dish,  the  syrup,  after 
being  flavored  with  maraschino  or 
kirschenwasser,  may  be  set  in  ice 
till  it  is  almost  frozen,  and  in  this 
condition  poured  over  the  fruit. 
Time  to  soak  the  strawberries,  one 
hour. 

Strawberries,  Conserves  of. — Sprin- 
kle the  strawberries  with  sugar, 
when  freshly  gathered,  in  the  pro- 
portion of  Yz  lb.  of  sugar  to  one  of 
fruit ; let  them  stand  four  hours. 
Pour  off  the  syrup,  and  put  it  on  the 
fire  in  a preserving-kettle ; drop  in  the 
fruit  as  soon  as  it  comes  to  a boil, 
and  let  it  become  well  scalded ; take 
out  with  a split  spoon ; spread  the 
berries  on  dishes  in  the  sun  to  dry ; 
cover  with  a thin  muslin  to  protect 
them  against  inse cts  ; bring  them  in  at 
nightfall,  turn  them,  and  repeat  the 
process  two  days  more  until  they  are 
dry  enough.  Pack  them  in  glass 
jars,  interspersing  each  layer  of  fruit 
with  a sprinkling  of  granulated  sugar. 

Strawberry  Foam.  — Sprinkle  a 
pint  of  capped  strawberries  with 
sugar,  and  set  them  aside  in  this  for 
an  hour,  when  the  juice  will  be  found 
to  run  freely.  Press  the  berries  in  a 
sieve  and  extract  all  the  juice.  Have 
ready  Yz  oz.  of  gelatine  soaked  in 
cold  water  for  half  an  hour ; add  to 
this  three  table- spoonfuls  of  sugar, 
and  heat  to  the  boiling-point.  When 
the  gelatine  is  thoroughly  dissolved, 
stir  in  the  strawberry-juice  and  the 
juice  of  one  lemon ; strain,  and  when 
it  is  cool  and  begins  to  thicken  beat 
into  it  a half-pint  of  whipped  cream. 
Set  on  the  ice  until  thoroughly  chilled. 


175 


Strawberry  Floating  Island  FRUITS 


Strawberry  Sponge 


Strawberry  Floating  Island.  — 

Make  a custard  of  a quart  of  milk, 
the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  a cupful 
of  sugar.  Cook  until  smooth,  and 
when  it  is  cool  flavor  it  with  lemon- 
juice.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
stiff  with  three  table  - spoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar,  and  into  this  whip 
the  sweetened  juice  from  a pint  of 
crushed  strawberries.  Serve  the  cus- 
tard when  ice-cold  in  a glass  dish 
with  spoonfuls  of  the  strawberry 
meringue  floating  on  top.  The  me- 
ringue should  not  be  made  until  just 
before  it  is  to  be  eaten. 

Strawberry  Glaces.  — Take  a 
sponge  cake  two  or  three  days  old, 
and  cut  it  into  squares,  rounds,  and 
diamonds.  Boil  I lb.  of  sugar  with 
a pint  of  water  to  a clear  syrup. 
Boil  and  skim  this,  and  keep  trying 
whether  it  is  done  enough  by  drop- 
ping a small  portion  of  it  at  a time 
into  a basin  of  cold  water  placed  by 
the  side  of  the  stove  for  the  purpose. 
If  the  sugar  snaps  when  dropped  into 
the  water,  and  then  remains  hard, 
it  is  ready  for  the  strawberry-juice, 
which  should  be  added.  Take  the 
syrup  from  the  fire,  let  it  cool,  and 
beat  it  with  a wooden  spoon  till  it  is 
quite  smooth.  Stick  the  pieces  of 
sponge  biscuit  one  by  one  on  the  point 
of  a skewer,  dip  them  into  the  icing, 
and  place  them  on  a sieve  to  drain. 
When  all  are  done,  put  them  in  a cool 
oven  for  a minute  or  two  to  dry. 
Let  them  cool  and  they  will  be  ready 
for  use. 

Strawberries  in  Jelly.  — Half  a 
cupful  of  gelatine,  one  and  one-half 
cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  lemon,  one 
cupful  of  cold  water,  two  cupfuls  of 
boiling  water,  one  pint  of  capped 
strawberries.  Make  a lemon-jelly,  and 
when  it  begins  to  form,  arrange  the 
berries  in  regular  order  in  the  bottom 
of  a mould  wet  with  cold  water.  Pour 
the  jelly  in  upon  them,  and  put  all 
on  the  ice  until  the  jelly  is  cold 
and  hard.  Turn  out  on  a plat- 
ter and  garnish  with  whipped 
cream. 


Strawberry  Meringue. — Cover  the 
bottom  of  a baking-dish  with  slices 
of  stale  cake  dipped  in  milk.  Stem 
a quart  of  strawberries  and  put  over ; 
sprinkle  freely  with  sugar  and  set 
in  the  stove  until  a syrup  is  formed. 
Take  out  and  spread  with  meringue 
made  of  the  beaten  whites  of  three 
eggs  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar.  Set  back  in  the 
oven  one  minute.  Serve  very  cold 
with  whipped  cream. 

Strawberries  and  Rice.  — Have 
some  rice  boiled  dry  so  that  each  ker- 
nel stands  apart ; keep  ready  to  serve 
hot.  Make  a rich  hard  sauce,  and 
beat  into  it  all  the  strawberries  that 
you  can  get  in.  The  dessert  can  be 
served  in  two  ways — with  the  rice  in 
the  centre  and  the  sauce  round  it,  or 
the  rice  in  a dish  by  itself  and  the 
sauce  in  another  one.  It  is  just  a 
matter  of  taste.  The  result  is  the 
same.  It  can  be  made  with  pre- 
served strawberries,  and  is  very  good. 

Strawberry  Short  Cake. — One  cup- 
ful of  sugar,  one  table-spoonful  of 
butter,  one  heaping  cupful  of  flour, 
quarter  of  a cupful  of  milk,  three 
eggs,  the  whites  and  yolks  beaten 
separately,  one  full  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder,  one  quart  of  straw- 
berries. Rub  butter  and  sugar  to- 
gether : add  yolks,  milk,  flour,  whites, 
and  baking-powder.  Bake  in  three 
jelly-cake  tins,  and  when  cold  place 
the  berries  between  the  layers,  sprin- 
kling them  with  sugar.  Heap  whip- 
ped cream  on  top  of  the  cake. 

Strawberry  Sponge. — Soak  half  a 
box  of  gelatine  in  a small  cup  of  cold 
water  for  half  an  hour.  Stir  in  the 
juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon  and  a 
cupful  and  a half  of  sugar,  and  let  it 
stand  an  hour  longer.  Pour  on  this 
two  cupfuls  of  boiling  water ; stir 
until  dissolved ; strain,  and  set  aside 
to  cool.  When  it  begins  to  harden, 
whip  the  whites  of  three  eggs  stiff 
and  beat  into  it  the  jelly,  a little  at  a 
time,  until  you  have  a smooth  sponge. 
Stir  in  then  half  a pint  of  fresh,  firm 


Strawberry  Sponge 


FRUITS 


Fudge 


strawberries,  turn  all  into  a mould, 
and  set  on  the  ice  for  a couple  of 
hours.  Eat  with  sweet  cream. 

Strawberry  Sponge.  — Cover  half 
a box  of  gelatine  with  half  a cupful 
of  cold  water,  and  let  soak  for  thirty 
minutes;  add  a pint  of  boiling  water 
and  a cupful  of  sugar;  stir  until  dis- 
solved, and  pour  in  a pint  of  straw- 
berry-juice  ; set  on  ice  until  thick. 
Beat  until  stiff,  add  the  frothed 
whites  of  four  eggs,  and  mix  until 
smooth ; pour  in  a mould  and  set  to 
harden.  Serve  with  whipped  cream. 

Strawberry  Tapioca.  — Wash  a 
cupful  of  tapioca  and  put  to  soak  in 
cold  water  overnight.  In  the  morning 
pour  over  a pint  of  boiling  water,  and 
set  on  the  back  of  the  stove  to  sim- 
mer gently  until  the  tapioca  is  perfect- 
ly clear.  Stem  a quart  of  strawber- 
ries and  stir  into  the  boiling  tapioca 
with  a pint  of  sugar.  Take  from  the 
fire,  turn  into  a glass  dish,  and  set  on 
ice.  Serve  very  cold  with  sugar  and 
cream. 

Strawberries  with  Whipped  Cream. 

— Put  a layer  of  hulled  berries  in  a 
deep  dish,  sprinkle  with  powdered 


sugar,  and  cover  with  whipped  cream. 
Arrange  another  layer  of  the  berries, 
and  continue  with  alternate  strata  of 
sugar,  berries,  and  cream  until  the 
dish  is  full,  heaping  the  cream  on  top. 
This  should  be  done  just  before  the 
dish  is  to  be  eaten,  and  berries,  cream, 
and  bowl  should  all  be  thoroughly 
chilled. 

Fruit  Bouillon.  See  Beverages. 

..  Cake  (Black).  See  Cakes. 

(Leavened). 

..  Wafers. 

..  Crystallized. 

..  Cream. 

..  Fritters. 

..  in  Brandy. 

..  Pickled. 

..  Spiced. 

..  Pasties  or  Turnovers.  See  Pies. 
..  Pies. 

..  Tarts. 

..  Jellies.  See  Preserves. 

Melange. 

..  Pudding,  Boiled.  See  Puddings. 
..  ..  Steamed. 

..  Sauces. 

..  Salad.  See  Salads. 

..  Canapes.  See  Sandwiches. 
..  Souffle.  See  Souffles. 

..  Soups  or  Bouillons.  See  Soups. 


See  Candy. 
See  Creams. 
See  Fritters. 
See  Pickles. 


Frying.  See  the  Preface.  Fudge. 


See  Candy. 


12 


Galantine. — A dish  of  veal,  chicken,  and  vegetables.  It  is  served  cold, 

turkey,  or  other  meat,  boned,  stuffed,  with  aspic-jelly.  See  Beef,  Veal,  Poul- 

tied  tightly,  and  boiled  with  spices  try. 


GAME 


In  nothing  is  the  skill  of  a cook 
more  fully  displayed  than  in  the 
cooking  of  game.  Frequently  it  is 
overdone,  and  rendered  tough  and 
flavorless  by  too  long  standing  in  the 
oven.  All  large  game  will  be  found 
to  improve  by  being  kept  a short  time 
after  being  killed,  but  should  be 
drawn,  washed,  and  dried,  and  hung 
in  a cool  place.  If  the  weather  is 
warm  and  damp,  the  cavities  may  be 
filled  with  charcoal,  which  is  an  ad- 
mirable preventative  of  decomposition. 
In  very  cold  weather  game  should  be 
brought  into  a warm  kitchen  sev- 
eral hours  before  it  is  to  be  cooked. 
This  will  be  found  especially  neces- 
sary if  frozen.  Having  very  little 
natural  fat,  game  requires  frequent 
basting  and  the  free  use  of  butter  in 
cooking. 

Game  in  Aspic -jelly. — Make  as 
much  aspic -jelly  as  will  fill  your 
mould.  Put  a little  at  the  bottom, 
let  it  stiffen,  then  arrange  in  it  the 
remains  of  cold  game,  cut  into  neat 
pieces,  and  alternately  with  them 
slices  of  pink  ham  and  pieces  of  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  leaving  room  for  the 
jelly  to  go  between  the  pieces.  Fill 
up  the  mould  with  jelly,  and  set  in  a 
cool  place.  Before  serving,  dip  the 
mould  for  a second  or  two  in  boiling 
water,  to  make  it  turn  out  more  easily. 
Time,  twelve  hours  to  set  the  jelly. 


Game  Chaudfroid.  — Gut  up  the 

cold  game  very  carefully;  arrange  it 
with  equal  care  on  a large,  round 
dish,  building  up  the  cold  game  into 
a pyramid  ; pour  over  all  a rich  sauce, 
which  will  jelly  when  cold.  Aspic- 
jelly,  or  clarified  calf's  - foot  jelly, 
flavored  with  strong  stock,  are  best 
for  this.  Garnish,  when  cold,  with 
sliced  lemon,  curled  lettuce,  etc. 

Another  way : — Make  a good 
veloute  sauce,  strain  free  from  grease, 
and  add  a third  of  the  quantity  of 
aspic  - jelly ; put  on  the  fire  and  boil 
until  it  thickens ; then  remove  the 
saucepan  from  the  fire,  stir  in  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs  well  beaten, 
strain,  and  set  away  to  cool ; when 
cool,  and  before  it  forms,  spread  it 
carefully  over  your  pieces  of  cold 
game,  being  careful  to  cover  or  ice 
them  completely;  when  cold  arrange 
in  a dish,  and  garnish  with  pickled 
mushrooms. 

Game  Curry. — Take  one  or  more 
wild  birds,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  dish  you  require.  Cut  them  into 
convenient-sized  joints,  rather  small 
than  large,  and  fry  these  in  hot  but- 
ter till  lightly  browned.  Score  the 
joints  slightly  in  one  or  two  places, 
place  a little  curry  powder  in  each 
opening,  and  squeeze  over  it  the 
juice  of  a lemon.  Cover  the  joints 
with  good  brown  gravy  and  let  them 


178 


Game,  To  Devil 


GAME 


Game,  Pur€e  of 


simmer  gently  for  twenty  minutes. 
Allow  a table-spoonful  of  curry  pow- 
der, a dessert-spoonful  of  the  pounded 
kernel  of  a cocoanut,  a dessert-spoon- 
ful of  the  pulp  of  an  acid  apple,  and 
a quarter  of  a pint  of  good  gravy  to 
every  pound  of  meat.  Simmer  a quar- 
ter of  an  hour  longer.  Serve  with 
rice  around  the  dish. 

Game,  To  Devil. — Some  hours  be- 
fore this  dish  is  wanted  the  flesh 
should  be  rather  deeply  scored  and 
covered  with  a powder  made  of  equal 
parts  of  salt,  cayenne,  and  curry 
powder,  with  the  addition,  if  liked, 
of  mushroom  or  truffle  powder,  but- 
ter, and  mustard.  Broil  over  a hot, 
clear  fire,  until  brightly  browned  and 
hot,  but  not  burned.  Devilled  game 
is  oftener  than  not  eaten  dry,  as  a 
relish  with  wine.  When  sauce  is 
wanted,  it  may  be  made  by  putting 
a breakfast- cupful  of  thick  brown 
gravy  into  a saucepan,  with  a tea- 
spoonful of  mixed  mustard,  a shallot 
finely  minced,  a spoonful  of  catsup, 
the  juice  and  finely  grated  rind  of  a 
lemon,  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  a quar- 
ter of  a teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  and 
a teaspoonful  of  bruised  capers.  Sim- 
mer for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  and 
serve  in  a tureen.  The  devilled  game 
will  be  all  the  better  if  the  meat  has 
been  under-dressed.  Time,  a few  min- 
utes to  broil  the  bones. 

Game  Pate  (a  Creole  recipe). — Line 
a tin  pan  with  pastry,  spread  thin 
slices  of  fat  bacon  on  the  bottom  and 
sides.  Make  a force-meat  of  three 
table  - spoonfuls  of  lean,  boiled  ham 
minced,  the  livers  of  six  partridges, 
the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs, 
one  shallot,  a teaspoonful  of  mixed 
ground  spices,  and  a bunch  of  dried 
sweet  herbs,  all  pounded  together ; 
spread  over  the  bacon.  Cut  the 
partridges  in  halves,  place  an  oyster 
in  each,  arrange  in  the  pan,  fill  the 
spaces  with  the  force-meat,  cover 
with  an  upper  crust,  make  a hole  in 
the  centre,  and  set  in  the  oven.  Bake 
slowly  for  four  hours.  When  done, 
pour  over  brown  sauce. 


Game  Patties.  — Make  a nicely 
flavored  mince  of  the  remains  of 
game.  Moisten  with  a little  gravy. 
Make  some  small,  round  patties  of 
good,  light  crust,  or  puff  paste,  brush 
them  over  with  beaten  egg,  and  bake 
them  till  lightly  browned.  Warm  the 
mince  in  a saucepan,  put  a little  in 
the  centre  of  each  patty,  and  serve 
them  hot,  piled  on  a napkin.  Time, 
ten  minutes  to  bake. 

Game  and  Macaroni  Pie.  — Put 

54  lb.  of  macaroni  into  a saucepan 
of  boiling  stock,  and  let  it  simmer  till 
it  is  tender  but  unbroken.  Drain, 
and  lay  it  at  the  bottom  of  a deep  dish, 
and  on  it  place  a layer  of  game  (either 
partridges,  pheasants,  or  grouse)  ; 
cut  into  neat  joints,  and  stew  until 
they  are  three  parts  cooked.  A few 
slices  of  raw,  lean  ham  should  be  put 
among  the  game,  together  with  a 
few  chopped  mushrooms.  Season  with 
pepper  and  salt.  Place  a layer  of 
macaroni  on  the  top,  grate  over  it  a 
little  Parmesan  cheese,  and  put  little 
lumps  of  butter  here  and  there.  Pour 
some  good  gravy,  mixed  with  cream 
or  new  milk.,  over  the  whole ; cover 
with  a good  crust  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven.  Before  serving,  add 
a little  more  boiling  gravy,  and  milk 
if  required.  Time  to  bake,  about  one 
hour. 

Game,  Pies  of. — May  be  made  of 
game  either  cut  into  joints,  or,  if  the 
birds  are  small,  put  in  whole.  The 
seasoning  should  be  rather  high, 
and  frequently  a beefsteak  is  put  at 
the  bottom  of  the  dish.  Game  pies 
are  often  too  much  cooked  and  thus 
the  flavor  is  spoiled.  A little  good, 
melted  butter,  mixed  with  claret,  and 
a soupgon  of  lemon -juice  may  be 
poured  over  the  game  when  it  is  to  be 
eaten  hot.  Stewed  macaroni  is  some- 
times substituted  for  the  beefsteak  in 
game  pies.  Time,  according  to  the 
size. 

Game,  Puree  of.  — Have  skinned 
and  cleaned  two  fat  wild  rabbits ; 
wipe  them  with  a clean,  wet  towel. 


179 


Game,  Rissoles  of 


GAM  E 


Game,  Salmi  of 


lift  up  the  fillets,  remove  all  the  thin 
skin  and  sinews.  Draw  and  clean 
two  large  partridges,  remove  all 
the  breasts,  lift  up  the  skin,  and  re- 
move the  small  sinews.  Put  the 
fillets  aside  for  future  use.  Cut  in 
pieces  all  the  carcasses,  and  put  them 
in  a soup-kettle  with  one  veal  knuckle 
and  five  quarts  of  beef  broth.  Put 
over  a brisk  fire,  and  watch  till  it 
begins  to  boil,  so  as  to  skim  thorough- 
ly. Season  with  one  table-spoonful 
of  salt,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  black 
pepper,  two  white  onions,  three 
medium-sized  carrots,  a bouquet  of 
two  leeks,  one  small  bay-leaf,  and  a 
very  small  branch  of  thyme.  Let 
it  boil  slowly  for  one  and  one-half 
hours,  starting  from  the  last  season- 
ing. Leave  the  cover  of  the  kettle 
ajar.  Strain  through  a colander  into 
a large  bowl.  Let  it  cool  for  one 
hour,  then  skim  all  the  fat  from  the 
surface,  take  out  the  broth  with  a 
dipper,  and  strain  it  a second  time 
through  a clean  napkin  previously 
wet  in  cold  water.  Leave  at  the 
bottom  of  the  bowl  a couple  of  spoon- 
fuls of  the  broth  to  avoid  the  dregs. 
Put  in  a saucepan  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter  and  two  of  flour ; cook 
and  stir  for  four  minutes.  Pour  over 
this  the  broth  with  the  dipper,  not 
fast,  and  stirring  constantly.  Let 
it  simmer  twenty  minutes,  put  beside 
the  fire,  and  pour  in  it  slowly  while 
stirring  half  a pint  of  good  cream. 
Do  not  boil  after  this  is  in.  Prepare 
the  fillets  of  partridges  and  rabbits 
to  serve  them  with  the  soup  as  fol- 
lows : Cover  the  bottom  of  a roast- 

ing-pan  with  slices  of  larding-pork 
cut  as  thin,  as  paper.  Season  each 
one  of  the  fillets  with  one  salt-spoon- 
ful of  salt  and  a half  one  of  pepper. 
Lay  the  fillets  side  by  side  over  the 
pork,  and  cover  them  with  a layer 
of  pork.  Pour  in  the  pan  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  the  game  broth.  Bake 
in  a hot  oven  fifteen  minutes.  Baste 
twice  during  the  cooking.  Remove 
all  the  fillets  on  a hot  platter,  and 
with  a sharp  knife  cut  the  rabbit 
fillets  in  small  disks  the  size  of  a pea, 
and  the  partridge  in  thin,  square 


slices  half  an  inch  wide.  Pour  the 
puree  in  the  soup-tureen,  add  the 
minced  fillets  to  it,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Game,  Rissoles  of.  — Take  the 
remains  of  cold  game,  remove  the 
skin  and  gristle,  and  pound  the  meat 
in  a mortar  with  one  dessert-spoon- 
ful of  salt,  a teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
the  quarter  of  a small  nutmeg,  grated, 
Vz  lb.  of  bread-crumbs  soaked  in 
milk  and  drained,  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  finely  chopped  mushrooms, 
a piece  of  butter,  and  the  yolk  of  an 
egg  to  every  pound  of  meat.  En- 
close in  pastry,  or,  if  preferred,  make 
into  balls,  sift  flour  over  them,  and 
dip  them  in  beaten  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs. Fry  them  in  hot  butter  or 
lard  till  lightly  browned,  drain  on  a 
little  blotting-paper,  and  serve  piled 
high  on  a napkin.  Garnish  with 
parsley,  and  send  brown  sauce  to 
table  with  them.  Time,  ten  minutes 
to  fry. 

Game,  Salmi  of.  — A salmi  differs 
from  a hash  in  this,  that  it  is  made 
of  game  which  has  been  only  par- 
tially dressed,  while  a hash  consists 
of  game  which  has  been  properly 
cooked  and  become  cold.  Carve  the 
meat  into  neat  joints,  rejecting  the 
skin  and  gristle.  Put  ]/\  lb.  of  raw, 
lean  ham,  finely  minced,  into  a sauce- 
pan with  a little  butter,  a sprig  of 
parsley,  two  or  three  shallots,  a tea- 
spoonful of  pepper,  a blade  of  mace, 
and  a little  salt  and  cayenne.  Let 
these  ingredients  stew  gently  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  mix  in  smoothly 
a table-spoonful  of  flour.  Let  it 
brown,  and  add  a breakfast-cupful 
of  good  stock  and  a glass  of  claret. 
Let  the  mixture  boil.  Put  in  the 
bones  and  trimmings,  and  simmer 
over  a moderate  fire  for  an  hour  or 
more.  A small  carrot,  a bunch  of 
savory  herbs,  and  a bay-leaf  maybe 
simmered  with  the  rest.  Skim  care- 
fully, strain,  and,  when  ready  to  serve, 
put  the  joints  in  with  the  gravy,  and 
heat  all  slowly,  but  it  must  not  boil. 
Garnish  the  dish  with  toasted  sippets. 
A salmi  should  be  highly  seasoned. 


Duck,  Canvasback 


GAME 


Partridges,  Broiled 


Duck,  Canvasback. — After  picking 
and  singeing,  draw  carefully.  Do  not 
wash  either  inside  or  outside,  but 
wipe  with  a cloth,  truss,  and  sprin- 
kle salt  and  pepper  inside.  Put  a 
little  water  in  the  pan  and  place  in  a 
very  hot  oven,  and  baste  frequently. 
Eighteen  or  twenty  minutes  is  the 
usual  limit  for  the  roasting.  Serve 
with  currant  jelly.  Garnish  with 
sliced  lemon. 

Duck,  Redhead,  resembles  the  can- 
vasback in  flavor  and  is  to  be  cooked 
the  same  way. 

Duck,  Roast  Wild  (an  old  Virginia 
recipe). — Mince  the  livers  of  a pair  of 
wild  ducks  with  a table-spoonful  of 
scraped  bacon  ; mix  with  I oz.  of  but- 
ter a slice  of  onion,  chopped  fine,  a 
little  salt  and  cayenne  ; fill  the  bod- 
ies of  the  ducks  with  the  mixture,  lajT 
them  in  a baking -pan,  cover  with 
thin  slices  of  fat  bacon, wrap  in  letter- 
paper,  and  set  in  a hot  oven.  When 
the  ducks  are  brown,  take  up,  garnish 
with  slices  of  orange,  and  pour  over 
sauce  made  by  adding  the  juice  of  an 
orange,  two  minced  shallots,  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  butter,  a pinch  of  cay- 
enne, and  a little  salt  to  the  gravy 
in  the  pan. 

Duck,  Wild.  — Should  be  cooked 
rare,  with  or  without  stuffing.  Pick, 
singe,  draw  carefully,  and  wipe  with  a 
cloth.  If  fishy,  the\r  are  unpalatable ; 
but  if  there  is  only  a suspicion  of  a 
fishy  taste,  a peeled  carrot  or  an 
onion  placed  inside  will  absorb  the 
unpleasant  taste.  Put  in  a very  hot 
oven  with  a little  water  in  the  pan, 
and  baste  frequently  with  the  same. 
When  nearly  done,  baste  with  butter 
and  a very  little  flour  to  brown  them. 
Time,  eighteen  to  twenty  minutes  to 
bake.  The  giblets  are  used  to  make 
the  gravy.  Serve  very  hot,  with  cur- 
rant jelly. 

Grouse  a l’Anglaise.  — Cut  a pair 
of  grouse  into  neat  joints ; put  a layer 
in  the  bottom  of  a baking-dish ; cover 
with  chopped  mushrooms  and  bits 

181 


of  butter ; lay  over  more  of  the  joints  ; 
spread  the  top  with  mushrooms, 
grated  crackers,  and  bits  of  butter  ; 
dredge  with  salt  and  pepper.  Set 
the  dish  in  a pan  of  water,  cover  the 
top,  and  set  in  the  oven  to  cook  one 
hour. 

Grouse,  Mayonnaise  of.  — Put  a 

teaspoonful  of  mayonnaise  in  the 
bottom  of  some  little  cases,  and  fill 
them  with  minced  cold  roast  grouse, 
shredded  lettuce,  chopped  hard-boiled 
egg,  and  stoned  olives.  Heap  up, 
cover  with  thick  mayonnaise,  and 
smooth  with  a knife.  Garnish  with 
sprigs  of  parsley  and  tiny  red  peppers. 
Serve  very  cold. 

Grouse,  Ragout  of. — Cut  the  flesh 
of  a cold  roast  grouse  into  pieces, 
with  a slice  of  cold  boiled  ham  and  % 
lb.  of  cold  boiled  tongue ; put  in  a 
saucepan  with  a pint  of  rich  stock, 
and  let  heat ; add  half  a dozen  stoned 
olives,  a dash  of  cayenne,  and  salt. 
Have  ready  little  cases  of  fried  bread 
(or  paper,  if  preferred) ; fill  with  the 
mixture.  Arrange  on  a dish,  and 
serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

Grouse,  Salmi  of  (an  English 
recipe). — Cut  the  meat  from  a pair 
of  roasted  grouse  in  neat  fillets ; re- 
move the  skin  and  gristle.  Fry  a 
slice  of  lean  ham  in  a table-spoonful 
of  butter,  with  a small,  sliced  carrot, 
a piece  of  onion,  a bay-leaf,  a sprig 
of  thyme  and  parsley  each,  six  whole 
cloves,  a bit  of  mace,  and  four  all- 
spice. When  the  meat  is  brown  add 
a spoonful  of  brown  sauce,  a gill  of 
veal  stock,  and  a squeeze  of  lemon- 
juice  with  the  bones  and  scraps  of 
the  birds ; let  simmer  half  an  hour, 
take  up,  strain,  return  to  the  sauce- 
pan with  the  grouse  fillets,  and  set 
over  the  fire  to  heat.  Serve  with 
fried  croutons. 

Partridges,  Broiled.  — Prepare  the 
partridges  as  if  for  roasting ; cut  off 
their  heads,  split  them  entirely  up 
the  back,  and  flatten  the  breastbones. 
Wipe  them  thoroughly  inside  and  out 


Partridge  Cutlets 


GAME 


Pigeons,  Vol-au-vent  of 


with  a damp  cloth,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  broil  over  a gentle 
fire.  As  soon  as  they  are  done  enough 
rub  them  quickly  over  with  butter, 
and  send  them  to  table  on  a hot  dish 
with  brown  gravy  or  mushroom 
sauce  in  a tureen.  Time,  fifteen 
minutes  to  broil  the  partridges. 

Partridge  Cutlets.  — Take  half  a 
dozen  plump  birds,  split  down  the 
back,  and  take  out  the  breastbone ; 
cut  off  the  wings,  divide  each  bird  in 
two,  trim  off  the  edges,  and  shape 
like  a cutlet.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  drop  in  a frying-pan  of  hot 
butter  for  two  minutes,  take  up,  put 
in  a baking-pan,  and  set  in  a hot 
oven  for  six  or  eight  minutes.  Let 
cool,  dip  each  cutlet  in  melted  aspic- 
jelly,  and  set  on  ice.  Roll  first  in 
grated  cracker,  and  dip  in  beaten 
egg,  then  in  the  cracker  again ; fry 
in  butter  until  brown  and  crisp. 
Take  up  on  a heated  dish  and  serve 
with  brown  sauce  and  currant  - jelly. 
Wild  pigeons,  grouse,  and  other  birds 
may  be  served  in  this  style. 

Partridge,  Fricassee  of. — Cut  four 
partridges  in  two ; put  I oz.  of  butter 
in  a frying-pan  set  over  the  fire ; 
when  hot,  put  in  the  birds  and  let  fry 
brown ; add  a cupful  of  boiling  water, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  let 
simmer  for  twenty  minutes ; squeeze 
in  the  juice  of  half  a lemon.  Take 
the  pieces  up  on  a heated  dish,  thicken 
the  gravy  with  a little  brown  flour, 
and  pour  over. 

Partridges,  Stewed  (a  Creole  reci- 
pe).— Stuff  the  birds  with  delicately 
seasoned  force-meat,  and  lard  the 
breasts  with  small  strips  of  fat  ba- 
con ; dust  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put 
two  slices  of  lean,  raw  ham  in  the 
bottom  of  a saucepan,  with  a sliced 
carrot,  a chopped  onion,  a bunch  of 
sweet  herbs,  and  a pint  of  stock ; lay 
the  birds  on  top,  and  set  over  a mod- 
erate fire  to  stew  gently  for  an  hour ; 
then  take  up,  strain  the  gravy,  and 
rub  the  vegetables  through  a sieve ; 
return  to  the  saucepan,  and  set  over 


• 

the  fire  for  ten  minutes;  crisp  the 
lardons  with  a salamander;  take  up 
the  birds  on  a heated  dish,  pour  the 
gravy  over,  and  garnish  with  small 
croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Partridge  or  Pheasant,  Souffle  of. 

— Clean  and  cook  two  birds ; take  off 
the  breasts  and  other  good  parts  of 
the  flesh,  without  skin  or  gristle. 
Take  3 ozs.  of  boiled  rice  and  mix  in 
a mortar  with  a table-spoonful  of 
butter,  two  of  glaze,  melted,  and  a 
little  salt  and  pepper.  Pound  all 
together  until  a smooth  mixture ; 
add  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs 
and  the  whites  of  two.  Pour  the 
mixture  into  a souffle-case,  set  in  a 
very  hot  oven  to  bake  until  light, 
and  serve  immediately  with  brown 
sauce. 

Pheasant  a la  Tartare,  Grilled.  — 

Pick  and  singe  a pair  of  pheasants ; 
split  down  the  back  through  the 
bone,  • and  remove  the  trail ; wipe  out 
with  a damp  towel ; take  off  the  heads 
and  feet ; rub  the  inside  well  with 
pepper,  salt,  finely  minced  cloves, 
and  parsley ; flatten  the  breasts,  brush 
over  with  melted  butter,  and  cook  for 
half  an  hour  before  a hot  fire,  basting 
several  times  with  butter.  Serve  with 
sauce  tartare. 

Pigeons  en  Matelote.  — Put  some 
butter  and  flour  into  a stewpan,  and 
simmer  until  they  turn  brown.  Cook 
in  the  butter  the  pigeons  cut  in  pieces, 
with  a few  thin  slices  of  bacon.  Pour 
over  them  some  beef  broth  and  white 
wine,  and  add  some  chives,  parsley, 
thyme,  mushrooms,  and  onions  fried 
in  butter,  as  well  as  salt,  pepper,  and 
spice.  Boil  down  over  a good  fire. 

Pigeons,  Vol-au-vent  of. — Roll  out 
a piece  of  puff  paste  to  the  shape 
and  size  of  the  dish  in  which  it  is 
intended  to  serve  the  vol-au-vent. 
It  should  be  a little  more  than  an 
inch  in  thickness.  Make  a knife 
hot  in  water,  and  with  it  mark  the 
cover  evenly  an  inch  from  the  edge 
all  round.  Ornament  the  border  in 


182 


Pigeons  with  Pease 


GAME 


Quail,  Roast 


any  way  that  may  be  preferred,  and 
brush  the  vol-au-vent  quickly  over 
with  yolk  of  egg.  Put  it  at  once  into 
a brisk  oven.  When  it  is  sufficiently 
risen  and  brightly  colored,  take  it  out. 
Take  off  the  marked  cover  carefully, 
and  scoop  out  the  soft  paste  from 
the  inside,  without  injuring  the  out- 
side. Put  the  vol-au-vent  back  into 
the  oven  for  a few  minutes  to  dry,  and 
fill  it  with  the  pigeons  and  sweet- 
breads prepared  as  follows  : Divide 

two  young  pigeons  into  neat  joints. 
Put  two  veal  sweetbreads  into  a 
saucepan,  cover  them  with  lukewarm 
water,  and  set  them  over  the  fire  until 
the  water  boils ; then  lift  them  out 
and  plunge  them  at  once  into  cold 
water.  Cut  them  into  neat  pieces  of 
uniform  shape  and  size,  and  bind  these 
securely  together  with  twine.  Put 
the  sweetbreads,  with  the  pigeons, 
into  a stewpan,  pour  a cupful  of  water 
over  them,  and  add  an  onion,  a bunch 
of  parsley,  a small  sprig  of  thyme, 
a bay-leaf,  a slice  of  fat  bacon,  Y2  oz. 
of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and  a little 
pepper  and  salt.  Simmer  gently  for 
half  an  hour,  then  remove  the  twine 
from  the  sweetbreads,  strain  and 
thicken  the  gravy  if  necessary,  and 
fill  the  vol-au-vent  with  the  fricassee. 
The  sauce  must  be  very  thick  or  it 
will  soften  the  light  pastry. 

Pigeons  with  Young  Green  Pease. 

— Cut  off  the  heads  and  feet  of  six 
fat  pigeons.  Split  the  skin  of  the 
neck  from  the  back,  and  cut  the  neck 
close  to  the  breast,  having  a care  not 
to  tear  off  the  skin.  Remove  the  crop. 
Make  a very  small  incision  crosswise 
at  the  lower  part  of  the  stomach,  and 
clean  the  inside  perfectly.  Save  the 
liver.  Do  not  wash  the  birds  but  clean 
them  with  a damp  towel.  This  method 
of  cleansing  is  much  better  for  any 
fowl  than  to  wash  it  in  a pan  of  water. 
By  the  newer  method  the  fowls  retain 
their  flavor.  Now  put  the  liver  back 
inside,  and  dust  with  one  salt-spoonful 
of  salt  and  half  of  this  quantity  of 
pepper.  Truss  the  birds  by  folding 
first  the  skin  on  the  back  of  the  neck. 
Pass  a trussing-needle  through  the 


legs  and  tie  them  very  close  to  the 
body,  so  as  to  give  them  a plump 
appearance.  Cut  into  small  squares 
Yz  lb.  of  bacon,  and  parboil.  Five 
minutes’  cooking  will  be  sufficient. 
Drain  and  put  same  into  a low  sauce- 
pan with  one  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Cook  five  minutes.  Now  remove  the 
bacon.  Put  the  pigeons  in  the  gravy 
and  cook  for  ten  minutes,  browning 
them  all  over.  Sprinkle  over  one 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  stirring  well 
to  mix  the  flour  thoroughly  with  the 
gravy.  Pour  slowly  over  the  fowl 
one  quart  of  warm  broth,  stirring 
all  the  time,  to  blend  it  well  with  the 
smooth  gravy.  Put  the  bacon  back, 
add  one  quart  of  freshly  shelled 
pease,  one  bunch  of  new  green  onions 
cut  one  inch  in  length,  and  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper.  Salt  is  unneces- 
sary if  broth  has  been  used.  Cover 
the  saucepan.  Cook  slowly  but  con- 
stantly for  forty  minutes.  The  pig- 
eons should  be  turned  once  during 
the  cooking.  When  finished,  re- 
move the  strings,  and  place  the  birds 
on  a hot  platter,  with  the  pease  placed 
around,  and  with  the  gravy  poured 
over.  If  broth  is  not  at  hand,  one 
teaspoonful  of  diluted  beef  extract  in 
one  quart  of  warm  water  may  be  used 
instead.  To  this  should  be  added 
one  level  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Quail,  Boned. — Bone  a dozen  birds  ; 
stuff  them  in  shape  with  sweetbreads 
or  oysters,  sew  them  up,  roll  in  but- 
tered paper,  put  in  a pan  with  white 
stock  sufficient  to  cover  them,  and 
let  cook  until  tender.  Take  them  up, 
remove  the  paper,  glaze  them.  Ar- 
range on  a border  of  potatoes  on  a 
large  dish;  pour  mushroom  sauce  in 
the  centre. 

Quail,  Roast. — Truss  the  quail  in 
the  ordinary  way.  Place  a vine- 
leaf  upon  the  breast  of  each,  over  this 
lay  two  or  three  thin  slices  of  fat 
bacon,  and  fasten  these  on  securely 
with  strong  twine.  Put  the  birds  into 
a stewpan,  just  large  enough  to  hold 
them,  with  as  much  butter  as  will 
keep  them  well  basted,  and  when  they 


Rabbit  a la  Creole 


GAME 


Rabbit,  Barbecued 


are  browned  on  one  side  turn  them 
to  the  other,  until  they  are  equally 
colored  all  over.  When  they  are 
done  enough,  pour  a cupful  of  thick 
cream  over  them,  and  sprinkle  bread- 
crumbs, browned  in  butter,  upon 
them.  Time,  a quarter  of  an  hour 
to  roast  the  birds. 

Rabbit  a la  Creole. — Take  a fat 
young  rabbit,  remove  the  skin  from 
the  fillets  and  haunches,  and  lard 
them  with  strips  of  fat  bacon.  Take 
the  bones  out  of  the  hind  legs,  and 
flatten  them  to  the  body.  Lay  the 
rabbit  in  a baking-pan,  dredge  with 
salt  and  pepper,  pour  over  melted 
butter,  and  set  in  a very  hot  oven  for 
twenty  minutes.  Baste  frequently. 
Pour  over  a teacupful  of  cream,  and 
let  cook  five  minutes  longer.  Take  up 
on  a heated  dish,  add  a table-spoonful 
of  butter  and  a teaspoonful  of  minced 
parsley;  strain,  and  pour  over  the 
rabbit. 

Rabbit,  Fried.  — Cut  into  neat 
pieces.  Flour  these  well,  and  fry 
in  plenty  of  boiling  dripping  till  they 
are  brightly  browned.  Lay  a slice 
of  butter  on  a hot  dish,  and  stir  into 
this  a small  shallot  finely  minced, 
and  a table-spoonful  of  good  sauce, 
with  a teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
if  this  is  liked.  Serve  very  hot. 
Fried  bacon  is  a suitable  accom- 
paniment to  this  dish.  If  there  is  any 
suspicion  that  the  rabbit  is  stale,  it 
should  be  thrown  into  boiling  water, 
and  kept  boiling  quickly  for  five  or 
six  minutes,  then  drained,  cooled, 
and  cut  up  as  above.  Time  to  fry, 
ten  to  fifteen  minutes. 

Rabbit,  Matelote  of  (a  French 
recipe). — Take  a rabbit,  cut  it  up,  and 
fry  it  in  a little  butter.  Make  a roux, 
which  should  be  thinned  with  weak 
soup  and  a glassful  of  white  wine. 
When  the  liquid  boils,  put  in  the 
pieces  of  rabbit,  together  with  a little 
bacon  cut  into  dice,  a bunch  of  mixed 
herbs,  and  some  mushrooms.  When 
about  done  enough,  brown  some 
button  onions  in  butter,  moistening 


with  the  sauce  from  the  rabbit.  Place 
the  rabbit  in  the  centre  of  the  dish, 
arrange  the  onions  and  mushrooms 
round  it,  strain  the  sauce  over,  and 
serve. 

Rabbit  a la  Minute.  — Cut  a fresh 
young  rabbit  into  neat  joints.  Dis- 
solve 2 or  3 ozs.  of  butter  in  a stewpan, 
put  in  the  pieces  of  rabbit,  and  turn 
them  about  until  they  are  lightly 
browned  all  over.  Pour  over  them  as 
much  stock  or  water  as  will  cover 
them,  and  add  a little  pepper  and  salt, 
a blade  of  mace,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  chopped  parsley,  and  three  or  four 
mushrooms  if  these  are  to  be  had. 
Let  all  simmer  gently  together  until 
the  rabbit  is  done  enough,  and  ten 
minutes  before  it  is  taken  from  the 
fire  thicken  the  gravy  with  a dessert- 
spoonful of  flour.  Serve  very  hot. 
A glassful  of  sherry  may  be  added 
to  the  sauce  or  not.  Time  altogether, 
forty  minutes. 

Rabbit,  Marinaded  and  Roasted 

(a  German  recipe). — Skin,  empty,  and 
wash  a plump  young  rabbit,  and  lay 
it  in  a deep  dish  with  a glassful  of 
vinegar,  a glassful  of  port,  a sliced 
onion,  twenty  peppercorns,  a bay- 
leaf,  and  three  pounded  cloves.  Let 
the  rabbit  lie  in  this  marinade  for  an 
hour  or  two,  and  turn  and  baste  it 
two  or  three  times.  Fill  it  with 
good  veal  force-meat,  truss  firmly, 
and  baste  with  the  marinade  without 
wiping  it  at  the  last  moment  before 
putting  it  to  the  fire.  Put  it  down 
to  a clear  fire,  and  baste  liberally. 
When  done  enough  lay  it  on  a hot 
dish,  take  out  the  skewers,  squeeze 
over  it  the  juice  of  half  a lemon,  serve 
very  hot,  and  send  brown  gravy  and 
red  - currant  jelly  to  table  with  it. 
Time  to  roast,  three  - quarters  of 
an  hour  to  one  hour;  less  time  if 
small. 

Rabbit,  Old-fashioned  Barbecued. 

— Take  a fat  young  rabbit  and  rub 
all  over  with  melted  butter ; dredge 
with  pepper  and  salt.  Lay  on  a well- 
greased  broiling  - iron,  turning  until 


Hare,  Roasted 


GAME  Reed-birds  and  Potatoes 


well  done.  Take  up,  put  in  a drip- 
ping-pan, spread  with  bits  of  butter, 
and  set  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes. 
Make  a sauce  of  four  table-spoonfuls 
of  vinegar,  one  of  made  mustard,  one 
each  of  walnut  and  tomato  catsup, 
and  two  table  - spoonfuls  of  currant 
jelty.  Mix  well,  pour  over  the  rabbit, 
and  serve  hot. 

Hare,  Roasted. — Procure  two  nice 
fat  hares  about  2l/z  lbs.  weight  each, 
and  have  them  skinned.  The  flesh 
is  better  than  that  of  smaller  ones. 
Draw  them  and  cut  the  thin  skins  on 
each  side  of  the  stomach,  close  to  the 
ribs.  Wipe  well  all  over  with  a clean, 
wet  towel.  Cut  the  rind  from  2 lbs. 
of  nice  bacon,  and  slice  the  bacon 
very  thin.  Sprinkle  the  hares  with 
one  salt-spoonful  of  black  pepper,  but 
no  salt.  Wrap  all  around  with  the 
slices  of  bacon,  secure  with  twine, 
and  place  the  hares  in  the  roast-pan 
with  two  gills  of  good  broth,  or,  if 
not  handy,  one  teaspoonful  of  beef 
extract  diluted  in  the  same  quantity 
of  warm  water.  Roast  in  moderate 
oven  for  thirty  minutes,  basting  every 
ten  minutes.  Remove  the  twine,  and 
serve  on  a hot  platter,  putting  the 
nicest  pieces  of  bacon  over  the  top. 
Leave  the  gravy  in  the  pan,  and 
finish  it  with  this  seasoning ; skim 
the  fat  from  the  surface  ; add  then  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  gherkins, 
one  table-spoonful  of  dry  mustard 
diluted  in  a little  cold  water,  two 
dessert-spoonfuls  of  wine  vinegar, 
one  salt-spoonful  of  pepper,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls of  chopped  parsley.  Place 
the  pan  over  the  fire  for  one  minute 
only,  and  serve  the  gravy  in  a hot 
sauce-boat  with  the  hares. 

Rabbit  a la  Tartare. — Take  a 
rabbit  and  bone  it.  Then  cut  it  into 
pieces,  which  marinade  some  hours 
in  parsley,  mushrooms,  chives,  and 
a clove  of  garlic,  all  chopped  fine, 
together  with  pepper,  salt,  and  oil ; 
dip  each  piece  of  rabbit  in  bread- 
crumbs, broil,  sprinkling  the  pieces 
with  the  marinade.  Serve  with  tar- 
tar sauce. 


Reed -birds  and  Potatoes  in  Sur- 
prise.— Procure  twelve  Philadelphia 
reed-birds,  pick  them  entirely,  neck 
and  head,  taking  care  not  to  tear  the 
skin.  Singe  them,  make  a very 
small  opening,  and  clean  them  with 
a small  coffee-spoon ; wipe  them  with 
a damp  towel  and  sprinkle  inside 
half  a salt  - spoonful  of  salt.  Cut 
the  nails,  truss  the  legs  at  the  joints, 
so  as  to  bring  the  feet  upon  the  thighs, 
fasten  with  a small  string ; truss  the 
wings  behind  the  back,  pass  the  head 
under  the  right  one,  and  bring  it 
towards  the  front.  Fasten  the  wings 
with  another  string  across  the  lower 
part  of  the  breast.  Cover  the  birds 
with  a very  thin,  paper-like  piece  of 
salted  larding-pork,  and  fasten  with 
a small  string.  Have  prepared  some 
canapes  of  stale  bread  cut  the  length 
of  the  bird.  Brown  them  slightly 
and  butter  them ; lay  them  in  a but- 
tered roasting  - pan,  turn  the  birds 
over,  and  cook  in  a hot  oven  for  eight 
minutes.  Cut  the  strings,  remove 
the  blankets  of  pork,  put  the  canapes 
in  the  bird's -nest,  and  arrange  the 
birds  over  it.  Pour  over  the  dripping 
from  the  roasting  - pan,  and  serve  at 
once.  The  bird’s -nest  is  made  of 
fried  potatoes.  Peel  and  slice  some 
long  potatoes.  Cut  the  slices  very 
thin,  straw-fashion;  do  not  wash  nor 
wipe  them,  as  their  humidity  is  neces- 
sary to  make  them  adhere  to  the  form 
of  the  nest.  Garnish  well  and  all 
around  a small  frying  wire  - basket 
with  the  potatoes.  Procure  a second 
one,  one  size  smaller.  When  the 
potatoes  have  been  arranged  in  the 
first  basket,  put  the  second  one  over 
them ; this  will  keep  them  in  their 
shape ; then  plunge  the  baskets  in 
plenty  of  very  hot  fat.  The  fat  must 
cover  the  nest  entirely.  Leave  in  six 
minutes,  lift  up  the  baskets,  drain 
the  fat  for  a moment,  take  off  the 
smaller  basket,  and  slip  the  nest 
out  very  carefully  on  a plate;  then 
dress  the  nest  in  a round  platter 
with  some  grape  leaves  under  and 
around.  Arrange  the  toast  and  reed- 
birds  inside,  and  send  to  the  table 
very  hot. 


185 


Redbirds  in  Jelly 


GAME 


Squab: 


Redbirds  in  Jelly. — Take  the  backs 
and  breasts  from  a dozen  birds. 
Make  a force-meat  of  the  livers  of  the 
birds,  half  a dozen  chicken  livers, 
io  ozs.  of  cold  boiled  tongue,  the 
mashed  yolk  of  a hard-boiled  egg, 
and  a table-spoonful  of  white  sauce, 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt.  Spread 
the  mixture  over  the  inside  of  the 
birds,  sew  them  up  into  shape,  put 
in  a pan,  and  set  in  a hot  oven  to 
bake  for  ten  minutes.  Take  up,  dip 
in  glaze,  pour  a little  melted  aspic 
jelly  in  the  bottom  of  a dozen  little 
moulds,  let  cool  slightly,  put  a bird 
in  each  mould,  and  set  on  ice  for  five 
minutes ; pour  aspic  over  to  cover ; 
set  back  on  the  ice  for  one  hour; 
turn  out  of  the  moulds.  Insert  the 
feet  (which  should  be  scalded  and 
dried)  in  the  centre  of  each  bird,  and 
serve. 

Snipes  a la  Minute. — Pluck  three 
snipes  carefully,  and  truss  them  for 
roasting.  Dissolve  2 ozs.  of  fresh 
butter  in  a saucepan,  lay  the  snipes 
in  it  side  by  side  and  breast  down- 
ward, and  add  two  finely  minced 
shallots,  or  small  onions,  a dessert- 
spoonful of  chopped  parsley,  and  a 
little  pepper,  salt,  and  grated  nut- 
meg. Move  the  saucepan  about  over 
a sharp  fire  till  the  birds  are  lightly 
browned,  pour  over  them  as  much 
good  stock  and  sherry  mixed  as  will 
barely  cover  them,  and  add  the  strain- 
ed juice  of  half  a lemon  and  a small 
piece  of  crust  of  bread,  finely  grated. 
Simmer  all  gently  together  till  the 
birds  are  done  enough.  Lift  them 
out,  and  put  them  on  a hot  dish. 
Dissolve  half  a teaspoonful  of  extract 
of  meat  in  the  sauce,  stir  it  over  the 
fire  for  a minute,  and  pour  it  over 
the  birds.  Serve  immediately.  Time, 
seven  to  ten  minutes  to  fry  the  birds ; 
seven  to  ten  minutes  to  stew  them. 

Snipes,  Roasted. — Pluck  the  birds 
very  carefully  so  as  not  to  tear  the 
tender  skin,  and  singe  and  truss. 
Hang  the  birds  feet  downward  to 
a spit,  put  them  to  a clear  fire,  and 
baste  frequently  with  butter  or  drip- 


ping. When  they  are  done  enough, 
flour  and  brown  them.  Take  them 
up,  dish  them  with  a slice  of  toast 
under  each,  and  serve  without  any 
sauce  in  the  dish  with  them.  If 
liked,  a slice  of  lemon  may  accom- 
pany the  birds,  or  a little  plain,  melted 
butter  may  be  sent  to  table  in  a tureen. 
Snipes  should  be  served  very  hot, 
or  they  will  be  comparatively  worth- 
less. They  should  not  be  over-roasted. 
Garnish  the  dish  with  water-cresses. 
Some  cooks  tie  slices  of  bacon  around 
the  birds  before  roasting  them.  Time 
to  roast,  twenty  to  twenty-five  min- 
utes ; five  minutes  less  if  liked  under- 
done. 

Snipes,  To  Truss.  — Handle  the 
birds  lightly,  pluck  them  carefully 
so  as  not  to  tear  the  skin,  and  pick 
them  entirely,  neck  and  head.  Draw 
them,  and  wipe  them  with  a clean,  soft 
cloth.  Cut  off  the  feet,  skin  the  head, 
and  take  out  the  eyes.  Twist  the  joints 
of  the  legs  to  bring  them  back  upon 
the  thighs,  and  press  the  legs  close 
to  the  body.  Turn  the  head  under 
the  wing,  and  pass  the  bill  through 
the  thighs  and  body.  Tie  a string 
round  the  legs  and  breast  to  keep 
the  legs  straight,  and  pass  it  also 
around  the  head  and  the  tip  of  the 
bill. 

Squabs  (with  mixed  vegetables). — 
Singe  and  cut  the  heads  from  six 
white,  fat  squabs.  Split  the  skin 
of  the  neck  from  the  back,  then  cut 
the  neck  close  to  the  breast,  taking 
care  not  to  tear  the  skin ; cut  off  the 
nails  and  remove  the  crops.  Make 
a very  small  incision,  opening  cross- 
wise at  the  lower  part  of  the  stomach, 
to  clean  the  inside  thoroughly.  Put 
the  liver  aside,  and  with  a towel  dipped 
in  cold  water  wipe  the  squabs  inside 
and  out.  Do  not  wash  them,  which 
injures  the  flavor.  Restore  the  liver, 
and  dust  the  inside  with  a small  pinch 
of  salt  and  a half -pinch  of  pepper. 
Put  a small  piece  of  cooked  bacon 
beneath  the  skin  at  the  crop  part ; 
truss,  putting  the  feet  inside,  which 
is  the  latest  way  to  truss  birds.  Par- 


Squabs,  Baked 


GAME 


Venison,  Fillets  of 


boil  Yz  lb.  of  bacon  for  ten  minutes; 
cut  into  small  pieces  and  put  into  a 
saucepan  with  a half  table-spoonful 
of  butter.  Place  the  squabs  over  the 
bacon  and  cook  ten  minutes,  when 
they  should  be  a golden  color.  Pour 
over  them  one  pint  of  good,  warm 
stock;  add  one  pinch  of  salt  and  one 
of  pepper.  Have  ready  a bunch  of 
small  new  turnips,  one  of  small  new 
carrots  which  have  been  parboiled  in 
boiling  water  for  ten  minutes  and 
afterwards  peeled,  with  three  very 
small  and  hard  new  cabbages,  also 
parboiled  for  ten  minutes,  but  in  a 
separate  kettle.  Drain  well,  and 
cut  into  quarters  lengthwise  the  tur- 
nips and  carrots.  Press  the  water 
out  of  the  cabbages,  but  do  not  break 
them.  Add  the  vegetables  when  the 
stock  is  poured  over ; season  with  one 
large  onion  and  two  sprigs  of  parsley. 
Cook  slowly  thirty  minutes,  turning 
each  squab  twice  during  the  cooking. 
Dress  the  vegetables  in  centre  of  the 
platter,  keeping  pieces  of  cabbage  to 
be  placed  between  the  birds.  Ar- 
range the  squabs  feet  up,  with  a 
little  bunch  of  carrots  and  turnips  on 
top.  Keep  hot  in  the  oven.  Finish 
the  gravy  with  a half  table-spoonful 
of  butter  mixed  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  flour.  When  smooth,  strain  it 
over  the  squabs  and  vegetables,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

Squabs,  Baked.  — Singe  and  draw 
three  fat  squabs ; wipe  them  with  a 
clean,  wet  towel,  cut  them  in  four 
pieces,  and  flatten  with  the  kitchen 
knife.  Season  each  piece  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Garnish  a small,  deep 
baking -dish  with  very  thin  slices  of 
raw  bacon.  Sprinkle  over  one  table- 
spoonful of  onions,  chopped  fine  ; 
place  one  layer  of  the  squabs,  then  one 
layer  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  sliced,  one 
layer  of  bacon,  and  one  of  squabs, 
another  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  the 
last  layer  on  top  of  bacon.  Mix 
one  teaspoonful  of  butter  with  one  of 
flour.  Pour  half  a pint  of  good,  warm 
broth  in  the  mixed  flour;  mix  well, 
and  pour  over  the  squabs.  Cover  the 
dish  with  a piece  of  well-buttered 


paper.  Bake  in  a moderate  oven  one 
hour. 

Squabs  in  Halves  (with  water- 
cress).— Cut  the  heads  and  feet  from 
three  large,  fat  squabs ; singe  the 
birds,  and  with  a sharp  knife  cut  them 
open  at  the  back ; remove  the  intes- 
tines, reserving  the  liver.  With  a 
wet  towel  wipe  them  all  over;  do  not 
wash  them ; it  spoils  the  taste  of  the 
meat.  Sprinkle  them  all  over  with  a 
level  salt-spoonful  of  salt  and  half  a 
one  of  pepper.  Butter  a roasting- 
pan  with  one  table-spoonful  and  a 
half  of  butter,  and  pour  into  it  half  a 
gill  of  cooking  Madeira  wine.  Place 
the  squabs  in  the  pan  side  by  side, 
and  cover  them  with  a piece  of  white 
buttered  paper.  Roast  in  a hot  oven 
for  twelve  minutes,  and  then  remove 
the  paper.  Wash  the  livers  and  dry 
them,  and  place  them  with  the  squabs  ; 
cook  three  minutes  more.  Have  six 
slices  of  toast.  Crush  the  livers, 
spread  them  over  the  toast,  and  dip 
the  toast  in  the  gravy.  Serve  a half 
bird  on  each  slice  of  toast,  arranged 
around  the  heaped  water-cress. 

Turkey,  Roast  Wild  (Kentucky 
style). — Rub  the  inside  of  the  turkey 
with  salt  and  cayenne,  hang  before 
a brisk  fire,  baste  with  melted  butter, 
and  turn  frequently  until  done.  Cut 
up  the  gizzard  and  liver,  stew  in  a 
little  water,  to  which  add  half  a tea- 
cupful of  cream  and  a table-spoonful 
of  butter ; mix  with  the  gravy.  Serve 
the  turkey  with  apple  sauce. 

Venison,  Fillets  of.  — Cut  three 
slices  from  the  leg  part  of  a deer 
— about  4 lbs.  in  all.  Prepare  in  a 
kitchen  vessel  the  following  marinade 
for  the  venison  : Cut  into  very  thin 
slices  three  raw  carrots  and  onions, 
add  four  cloves,  eight  whole  peppers, 
a small  bunch  of  thyme,  two  bay- 
leaves,  four  sprigs  of  parsley,  two 
branches  of  white  celery,  two  garlic 
cloves,  one  table  - spoonful  of  salt. 
Add  two  glassfuls  of  cold  water,  one 
glassful  of  vinegar,  two  gills  of  olive 
oil ; mix  everything,  and  put  the  veni- 


187 


Venison,  Haunch  of 


GAME 


Venison  Pastry 


son  in  it.  Keep  in  a cool  place  three 
days,  turning  the  venison  over  twice 
a day.  When  ready  to  use  it,  re- 
move a piece  to  the  meat  - board, 
scrape  it  on  both  sides,  then  cut 
twelve  round  pieces.  Sprinkle  half 
a salt  - spoonful  of  salt  and  quarter 
of  one  of  black  pepper  on  each  side 
of  the  fillets.  Put  in  a pan  three 
table  - spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  when 
hot  put  the  fillets  in.  Cook  four  min- 
utes on  each  side.  Put  all  the  mari- 
nade in  a small  saucepan.  Cook  forty 
minutes,  and  pass  through  a strain- 
er, crushing  most  of  the  vegetables 
through  it.  Wash  the  saucepan,  and 
pour  back  the  marinade.  When  it 
is  boiling  remove  from  the  fire ; cut 
in  small  lumps  one  table  - spoonful 
of  very  fresh  butter,  add  it  to  the 
marinade,  mix  well,  serve  in  a hot 
sauce-bowl  at  the  same  time  with  the 
fillets. 

Venison,  Haunch  of. — Venison  to 
be  tender  and  tasty  should  hang 
some  time  before  cooking  in  a piece 
of  cheese-cloth,  to  preserve  it  from 
insects.  The  day  before  using  it  trim 
it  around  neatly,  and  cut  off  the  hoof 
and  the  leg  bone  very  short,  close  to 
the  flesh.  Lard  the  venison  all  over 
on  top,  then  put  it  in  a large  earthen 
vessel  with  this  marinade  : One  pint 
of  wine  vinegar,  one  pint  of  olive  oil, 
three  red  onions,  sliced,  two  sliced  car- 
rots, three  garlic  cloves,  six  sprigs  of 
parsley,  two  branches  of  white  celery, 
six  cloves,  ten  peppercorns,  two  bay- 
leaves,  one  small  branch  of  thyme. 
The  leg  must  be  turned  over  two  or 
three  times  every  day.  When  ready  to 
cook  remove  it  from  the  marinade, 
and  clear  it  of  all  vegetables  attached 
to  it.  Put  a few  thin  slices  of  larding- 
pork  at  the  bottom  of  the  roast-pan. 
Sprinkle  half  a table-spoonful  of  salt 
all  over  the  leg  and  place  it  in  the 
pan,  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  but- 
ter. Cover  with  a piece  of  white  pa- 
per, well  buttered.  Roast  in  a hot 
oven  one  hour ; remove  the  paper, 
add  six  table-spoonfuls  of  the  mari- 
nade, previously  strained,  and  cook 
fifteen  minutes  more.  After  the  first 


half-hour  baste  every  fifteen  minutes. 
Serve  on  a hot  platter.  Remove  all 
the  fat  from  the  gravy.  Serve  with 
currant  jelly. 

Venison  (Kentucky  recipe). — Take 
a haunch  of  venison,  put  in  a large 
kettle,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and 
boil  until  tender ; drain  off  the  water, 
put  half  a pound  of  butter  with  salt 
and  pepper  in  the  kettle,  set  over  a 
moderate  fire,  and  let  brown,  first  on 
one  side,  and  then  on  the  other.  Ven- 
ison cooked  in  this  way  retains  its 
natural  flavor,  and  will  be  found 
delicious. 

Venison,  Marinaded  and  Baked. 

— Take  a shoulder  of  venison,  bone 
and  flatten  it,  lay  it  in  a deep  dish 
with  a pint  of  vinegar,  half  a pint  of 
oil,  a sliced  onion,  a bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  the  grated  rind  of  a Seville 
orange,  a pinch  of  grated  nutmeg, 
and  a little  pepper,  salt,  and  powdered 
sugar.  A glassful  of  white  wine 
may  be  added  or  not.  Let  it  re- 
main in  this  marinade  for  forty- 
eight  hours,  and  turn  it  about  three 
or  four  times.  Take  it  up,  cover 
with  greased  paper,  and  bake  in  a 
moderately  heated  oven  until  done 
enough.  Serve  with  venison  sauce. 
Time  to  bake  the  venison,  one  and 
three-quarters  to  two  hours,  accord- 
ing to  size. 

Venison  Pastry  (an  English  rec- 
ipe).— Cut  the  meat  from  the  neck 
and  shoulders  of  venison  into  small 
squares ; remove  all  the  skin,  gristle, 
and  bones,  and  put  in  a stew-kettle, 
with  a shallot,  salt,  pepper,  and 
sweet  herbs,  with  water  to  cover,  and 
set  on  the  stove  to  stew  for  gravy. 
In  another  vessel  cook  the  squares 
of  venison  with  a little  water  until 
three  parts  done ; line  a round  pan 
with  paste,  put  in  the  squares  of  meat, 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter, 
and  a cupful  of  the  gravy.  Make 
very  light  pastry  and  cover  the  top  ; 
leave  a hole  in  the  centre.  Cut  flow- 
ers and  leaves  out  of  the  pastry,  and 
ornament  the  top  with  them.  Set  in 


188 


Venison,  Potted 


GAME 


Woodcock,  Stuffed 


a moderate  oven  and  bake  three  hours  ; 
when  done,  draw  out  of  the  oven, 
pour  the  gravy  through  a strainer  in 
the  hole  on  top,  and  cover  with  a 
pastry  rose ; glaze  all  over  with  the 
yolk  of  an  egg;  set  back  in  the 
oven  five  minutes,  and  serve  very 
hot. 

Venison,  Potted. — Place  the  ven- 
ison in  a pan,  pour  red  wine  over  it, 
cover  with  I lb.  of  butter ; put  a paste 
over  the  pan,  and  set  it  in  the  oven 
to  bake.  When  done  enough,  take 
the  meat  out  of  the  gravy,  beat  it  well 
with  the  butter  that  has  risen  to  the 
top,  add  more  if  necessary,  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  pounded  mace. 
Put  the  venison  into  pots,  set  them 
for  a few  minutes  in  the  oven ; with- 
draw them,  wait  till  they  are  cold, 
and  then  cover  with  clarified  but- 
ter. 

Venison  Steaks,  Broiled. — Cut  the 

steaks  an  inch  thick  from  the  leg  or 
the  loin  of  venison.  Heat  the  grid- 
iron, rub  the  bars  with  a little  suet, 
and  place  the  steaks  upon  it  over  a 
clear  fire.  Turn  them  every  two  min- 
utes to  preserve  the  gravy.  Make 
the  steak  - dish  very  hot ; put  on  it 
for  each  pound  of  venison  i oz.  of 
butter,  a table  - spoonful  of  liquid 
red  - currant  jelly,  a table  - spoonful 
of  wine,  or,  as  a substitute,  boil- 
ing stock  or  water,  and  a little 
pepper  and  salt.  Turn  the  broiled 
steaks  in  the  sauce  once  or  twice, 
and  serve  very  hot.  Time,  from 
twenty  to  twenty- five  minutes  to 
broil. 

Woodcock. — Woodcocks,  like  snipe, 
are  only  good  when  they  are  fat. 
They  are  cooked  but  in  a very  few 
ways.  Truss  them  as  snipes,  except 
that  they  are  not  to  be  drawn.  The 
most  delicate  parts  are  the  legs  and 
the  intestines.  The  fillets  of  wood- 
cocks, for  those  persons  who  do  not 
like  their  meat  underdone,  are  tough 
and  without  savor.  They  are  held 
in  high  estimation  when  roasted  or 
in  ragouts.  When  roasted,  wrap  each 


bird  in  a slice  of  bacon  and  always 
put  a toast  under  them  to  receive  the 
intestines.  Bake  in  a hot  oven  for 
ten  minutes.  The  toast  should  be 
seasoned  with  butter,  salt,  pepper, 
and  a little  lemon-juice  before  the 
birds  are  placed  on  them. 

Woodcock,  Stuffed.  — Pick  and 
singe  one  dozen  fat  woodcock.  Keep 
the  tail,  wings,  and  head  of  one ; cut 
the  feet  and  scald  the  heads  of  the 
others  ; remove  the  eyes.  Cut  the  skin 
at  the  back  of  the  neck  down  to  the 
lower  part  of  the  back,  remove  all  the 
backbone  and  draw  from  the  back, 
leaving  the  liver  in.  Wipe  the  bird  all 
over  with  a clean  towel,  sprinkle  all 
over  with  one  salt-spoonful  of  salt 
and  quarter  of  a one  of  pepper.  Re- 
move the  fat  of  two  imported  goose 
livers,  put  them  in  a flat  saucepan 
with  one  pint  of  Madeira  wine,  add 
to  it  /4  lb.  of  black  truffles  peeled 
very  thinly  and  cut  in  small  pieces. 
Let  simmer  six  minutes  over  the  fire, 
basting  constantly  with  a wooden 
spoon ; remove  from  the  fire,  lift  up 
the  livers  and  truffles  and  let  cool  off. 
Reserve  the  gravy  for  future  use. 
Cut  the  livers  in  slices,  making  twelve 
in  all.  Put  one  slice  of  the  liver  and 
one-twelfth  part  of  the  truffles  in  each 
bird.  Fill  up  the  breast.  Stitch  the 
back  with  fine  white  thread ; pass 
the  head  under  the  wing  and  bring  it 
to  the  front,  the  bill  standing  up. 
With  a trussing-needle  draw  a piece 
of  twine  through  the  wings  to  hold 
them  on  the  back,  and  do  the  same 
for  the  legs.  This  must  be  done 
with  care ; they  must  look  very 
plump.  Place  the  birds  in  a flat 
saucepan,  cover  them  with  a very 
thin  blanket  of  larding  - pork,  pour 
over  the  remaining  Madeira,  add  to 
it  one  pint  of  meat  jelly,  put  a piece 
of  buttered  paper  over  the  sauce- 
pan, and  cover  tightly.  Cook  twenty- 
five  minutes,  not  too  fast.  Baste 
twice.  Remove  the  pork,  cut  the 
strings,  and  dress  the  birds  as  fol- 
lows on  a warm,  round  platter  : Put 
in  the  centre  a square  piece  of  bread, 
larger  at  the  base ; place  the  birds 


Garlic 


GARNISH 


Glaze 


against  it,  filling  up  between  with 
a few  water  - cress  leaves.  Procure 
some  thin  wire,  and  fasten  the  head, 
wings,  and  tail  to  the  bird  which 
goes  on  top.  Send  to  the  table  very 
hot,  and  .send  at  the  same  time  the 
gravy  in  which  the  birds  have  been 


cooked,  removing  first  all  the  fat  and 
straining  it. 

Game,  Force-meat  for. 

See  Force-meats. 
Force-meat  of. 

Gravy  for.  See  Gravies. 


Garlic. — Garlic  is  a very  great  im- 
provement to  many  dishes ; it  is  ex- 
ceedingly wholesome,  and  an  excel- 
lent tonic  for  the  nerves.  It  gives  a 
zest,  a brightness  of  flavor,  to  many 
dishes.  A cut  clove  rubbed  on  the 
dish  in  which  beefsteak  is  served 
makes  a new  dish  of  the  plain  broiled 
steak;  rubbed  on  a salad-bowl  it  im- 
proves any  salad,  no  matter  what 
the  ingredients.  It  can  be  rubbed 
on  the  individual  plates  of  those  who 
like  it.  Rubbed  over  a leg  of  lamb 
or  mutton  before  boiling  it  gives  a 
most  delicious  flavor,  something  not 
to  be  described  and  only  to  be  tasted. 

Garlic  Pickle.  See  Pickles. 


Garnish. — In  serving  various  dishes 
the  garnishing  forms  a most  important 
part,  as  it  is  highly  desirable  that  the 
eye  should  be  satisfied  as  well  as  the 
palate,  and  the  most  delicious  dish 
may  not  be  enjoyed  if  its  appearance  be 
against  it.  Vegetables  and  sauces  form 
the  principal  garnisli  for  meat  dishes. 

Cakes,  icing,  fruits  (candied,  etc.), 
fresh  jellies,  whipped  cream,  eggs, 
parsley,  celery,  etc.,  flowers,  crou- 
tons, etc.,  can  all  be  used  in  suitable 
combinations.  It  is  evident,  however, 
that  in  garnishing  very  much  must 
depend  on  the  good  taste  of  the  cook 
and  the  material  at  her  command. 


Gelatines. 

Gems. 

German  Pudding. 
German  Puffs. 
German  Waffles. 


See  Jellies. 
See  Bread. 
See  Puddings. 
See  Cakes. 
See  Bread. 


Germantown  Puffs.  See  Bread. 


Giblet  Sauce. 
Giblet  Soup. 
Ginger  Ice. 
Ginger  Pop. 
Ginger  Pudding. 
Ginger-snaps. 
Gingerbread. 
Glace  Napolitain. 
Glacdd  Fruits. 


See  Sauces. 
See  Soups. 
See  Ices. 
See  Beverages. 
See  Puddings. 
See  Cakes. 
See  Cakes. 
See  Ices. 
See  Candies. 


Glaze. — Glaze  is  made  from  clear 
stock,  boiled  down  until  it  forms  a 
sort  of  meat  varnish,  or  strong  jelly ; 
it  is  used  to  improve  the  appearance 
of  many  dishes.  It  is  also  made  in 
large  quantities  for  use  in  soups  and 
sauces,  and  for  this  purpose  is  very 
convenient.  The  knuckle  of  veal, 
the  legs  and  shins  of  beef,  and  the 
shanks  of  mutton  are  particularly 
gelatinous,  and  therefore  the  best 
for  making  glaze.  When  a little 
is  wanted  in  domestic  cookery,  a pint 
of  clear  beef  stock  may  be  boiled 
quickly  down,  to  produce  about  a 
table-spoonful,  or  as  much  as  will 
ornament  a joint.  Or  the  gravy 
found  under  the  fat  left  from  a roasted 
joint  may  be  mixed  with  melted 
gelatine  to  make  glaze.  Glaze  should 
be  kept  in  an  earthen  jar,  and  when 
it  is  wanted  for  use  this  jar  should 
be  placed  in  a saucepan  of  boiling 
water  and  its  contents  melted  in  this 
way,  care  being  taken  that  the  sauce- 


190 


Glen  Pudding 


GRAVIES,  ETC. 


Gratin 


pan  is  not  so  full  that  the  water  will 
go  into  the  glaze.  Glaze  must  never 
be  put  upon  a joint  unless  the  latter 
is  quite  dry,  and  two  or  three  layers 
should  be  put  on  it  with  a brush,  al- 
lowing one  layer  to  dry  before  an- 
other is  put  on.  Glaze  for  pastry 
is  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  or,  if  a 
light  glaze  is  wanted,  the  entire  egg 
is  beaten  up. 

Glen  Urquhart  Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 

Gold  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

Golden  Buck — Welsh  Rabbit. 

See  Cheese. 

Golden  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

Goose,  Roast.  See  Poultry. 

Goose  Livers  a la  Toulouse. 

See  Poultry. 


Gooseberry  for  Tarts,  To  Keep. 

See  Pies. 

Pie. 

..  Tart. 

..  Turnovers. 

..  Jam.  See  Preserves. 
..  Preserved. 

..  Dumplings. 

See  Puddings. 

..  Pudding. 

..  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Graham  Flour.  — Recipes  calling 

for  graham  flour  will  be  found  under 
the  following  heads : 

Graham  Biscuit.  See  Bread. 

Bread. 

Bread  (Steamed). 

..  Gems. 

Muffins. 

Tarts.  See  Pies. 

Grape  Fruit.  See  Fruits. 

Grape-fruit  Salad.  See  Salads. 


Gooseberry. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  gooseberries  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Gooseberry  Wine.  See  Beverages. 
..  Custard.  See  Custards. 
Fool. 

..  Fool,  Mock. 

..  Charlotte.  See  Fruits. 

..  Compote  of. 

..  Fool. 

..  Green,  Compote  of.  .. 

..  Toast. 

..  Trifle. 


Grapes. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  grapes  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 


Grape  Wine. 

..  Jelly. 

..  Catsup. 
Pickled. 
Spiced. 

. Marmalade. 
..  Preserved. 

..  Syrup. 

Gratin. 


See  Beverages. 
See  Jellies ; also 
Preserves. 

See  Pickles. 


See  Preserves. 


See  Force-meats. 


GRAVIES  AND 

Gravies  should  never  be  at  vari- 
ance in  flavor  with  the  dish  which 
they  are  to  accompany,  and  in  noth- 
ing is  the  skill  and  judgment  of  a 
good  cook  so  much  displayed  as  in 
their  management.  They  may  be 
made  a source  of  unceasing  expense, 
or  be  amply  supplied  at  a merely 
nominal  cost,  and  in  moderate  house- 


THICKENINGS 

holds  ought  certainly  to  be  made 
from  the  bones  and  trimmings  of  the 
joints  themselves.  As  a general  rule, 
it  should  be  remembered  that  the 
gravy  of  the  meat  to  be  used  is  always 
most  suitable  to  send  to  table  with 
it.  The  bones  dressed  and  undressed, 
the  trimmings  of  meat,  and  the  necks 
and  feet  of  poultry  and  game  should 


191 


Gravy  and  Eggs  GRAVIES,  ETC. 


Gravy  for  Game 


be  carefully  preserved  and  used  for 
making  gravy.  When  these  are 
not  sufficient,  fresh  meat  or  fresh 
bones  must  be  used — the  fresher  the 
better.  All  superfluous  fat  should 
be  removed  before  stewing,  and  the 
gravy  kept  in  a cool,  dry  place,  in  an 
earthen  pan.  Long  simmering  is 
required  to  extract  the  full  flavor  of 
the  meat;  and  if  any  fat  is  in  the 
gravy  after  boiling,  it  is  better  left  on 
until  the  gravy  is  required.  Gravy 
should  be  sent  to  table  hot,  and  in  a 
tureen.  Nothing  can  be  more  un- 
pleasant than  for  the  carver  to  find 
that  while  performing  his  duties  he 
has  bespattered  those  of  his  friends 
who,  unfortunately  for  themselves, 
were  placed  near  him.  Good  gravy 
may  be  made  from  the  bones  and 
trimmings  of  meat,  or  the  liquid  in 
which  meat  has  been  boiled.  Brown 
made  dishes  require  savory  gravies, 
white  dishes  delicately  flavored  ones. 
Where  the  flavor  of  onions  is  too 
strong  in  gravies,  it  may  be  lessened 
by  boiling  a turnip  in  it  for  a little 
while.  When  lean  meat  is  to  be 
made  into  gravy  it  should  be  beaten 
and  scored  before  stewing. 

See  also  recipes  for  Meat  Sauces 
under  Sauces. 

Gravy  and  Eggs.  See  Eggs. 

Gravy  for  Boiled  Meat. — Haifa 
pint  of  the  liquid  in  which  the  meat 
is  cooked  may  be  thickened  with  a 
little  flour  and  butter,  and  flavored 
with  a table-spoonful  of  finely  chop- 
ped pickled  gherkins  or  walnuts  and 
a dessert-spoonful  of  minced  parsley. 
A teaspoonful  of  mustard  mixed  with 
a small  quantity  of  vinegar  may 
then  be  added.  This  sauce  should 
be  served  in  a tureen,  not  put  on  the 
same  dish  as  the  meat.  Time,  a 
quarter  of  an  hour. 

Gravy  for  Curried  Fish. — Melt  a 

piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a small  egg 
in  a saucepan,  and  fry  two  sliced 
onions  in  it  until  lightly  browned. 
Drain  them  from  the  fat,  and  mix 
with  them  a pint  and  a half  of  good 


stock,  and,  if  the  flavor  is  liked,  two 
tart  apples,  pared  and  cored.  Simmer 
gently  until  the  onions  are  sufficiently 
tender  to  be  pressed  through  a sieve, 
and  after  this  has  been  done  boil  once 
more,  thicken  the  gravy  with  a tabic- 
spoonful  of  flour  and  a table-spoonful 
of  curry  powder,  mixed  with  a little 
cold  water,  and  add  a pinch  of  salt. 
Boil  for  half  an  hour,  and  just  before 
serving  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
good  cream.  Time,  an  hour  and  a 
quarter. 

Gravy  from  Extract  of  Meat. — Ex- 
cellent and  nourishing  gravy  may  be 
made  from  the  extract  of  meat.  It  is 
very  good  if  simply  dissolved  in  a little 
boiling  water  and  mixed  with  a rather 
liberal  allowance  of  salt,  but  it  may  be 
converted  into  superior  gravy  by  the 
following  directions  : Cut  2 ozs.  of  the 
lean  of  undressed  ham  into  dice,  and 
put  them  into  a saucepan  with  a piece 
of  butter  the  size  of  a walnut,  two  shal- 
lots, finely  minced,  two  cloves,  a blade 
of  mace,  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  one 
of  sweet  marjoram,  one  of  thyme, 
and  six  peppercorns.  Place  the  pan 
on  a moderate  fire,  and  let  it  remain 
until  the  ham  and  the  sides  of  the 
pan  are  brightly  colored,  moving  the 
pieces  of  meat  about  with  a wooden 
spoon  to  prevent  burning,  and  to  allow 
of  their  being  equally  browned  on  all 
sides.  Pour  over  them,  very  gradu- 
ally, a pint  of  boiling  water  in  which 
half  a teaspoonful  of  the  extract  has 
been  dissolved.  Boil,  then  simmer 
gently  for  half  an  hour,  strain,  and 
serve.  If  a thick  sauce  is  wanted,  the 
flour  should  be  mixed  smoothly  with 
the  butter  before  the  gravy  is  put  in. 
Sufficient  for  a quart  of  gravy. 

Gravy  for  Game.  — Melt  a piece  of  . 
butter  the  size  of  a small  egg  in  a 
saucepan,  and  mix  with  it  very 
smoothly  a table-spoonful  of  flour. 
When  lightly  browned,  add  a cupful 
of  good  stock,  half  a teaspoonful  of 
mixed  mustard,  a tiny  pinch  of 
cayenne,  as  much  powdered  mace 
as  will  stand  on  the  point  of  a knife, 
and  a dessert-spoonful  of  lemon-juice. 


192 


Gravy  for  Grills,  etc.  G R A V I E S , ETC.  Thickening,  Brown 


Boil  for  twenty  minutes.  Add  a 
wineglassful  of  sherry,  and  serve  in 
a tureen.  Sufficient  for  half  a pint 
of  gravy. 

Gravy  for  Grills  and  Broils. — Rub 

a table -spoonful  of  flour  into  I oz. 
of  good  butter.  Mix  with  it  half  a 
pint  of  good,  strong  stock,  a table- 
spoonful of  catsup,  the  juice  and  rind 
of  a quarter  of  a lemon,  a teaspoonful 
of  made  mustard,  half  the  quantity 
of  the  essence  of  anchovies,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  three  grains  of 
cayenne,  a teaspoonful  of  chopped 
capers,  and  a shallot,  finely  minced. 
Put  these  ingredients  into  a sauce- 
pan. Let  them  boil,  then  simmer 
gently  for  five  or  six  minutes,  strain, 
and  serve. 

Gravy  for  Poultry. — Take  the  feet, 
necks,  livers,  and  gizzards  of  the 
fowls,  wash  them  thoroughly,  cut 
them  into  small  pieces,  and  put  them 
into  a saucepan  with  a bunch  of 
savory  herbs,  a small  onion,  half  a 
slice  of  bread,  toasted  brown  and 
hard  but  not  burned,  a salt -spoonful 
of  salt,  half  a salt-spoonful  of  pepper, 
and  a pint  and  a half  of  water.  Sim- 
mer very  gently  for  an  hour  or  more. 
Pour  the  fat  from  the  pan  which  has 
been  under  the  fowl,  strain  the  gravy 
to  it,  stir  it  well,  strain  it  again  into 
the  saucepan ; add  a table-spoonful 
of  mushroom  catsup,  if  this  is  liked, 
and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Gravy  for  Roast  Meat.  — About 
twenty  minutes  before  the  joint  is 
taken  from  the  oven  put  a common 
dish  under  it,  and  pour  slowly  and 
gradually  over  the  brown  parts  of  the 
meat  two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
boiling  water,  in  which  half  a tea- 
spoonful of  salt  has  been  dissolved. 
When  it  has  all  dropped  into  the  dish, 
set  it  aside,  carefully  skim  off  the  fat 
as  it  rises  to  the  surface,  let  it  boil, 
and  serve  in  a tureen.  When  a larger 
quantity  of  gravy  is  required,  there 
is  in  ordinary  households  no  neces- 
sity to  purchase  gravy-beef  in  order  to 
obtain  it.  The  trimmings  and  hard, 
13 


brown,  uneatable  pieces  of  roasted 
and  broiled  meat  or  poultry  should 
be  put  into  a jar  and  covered  with 
boiling  water.  The  next  day  they 
should  be  boiled  and  strained,  and 
will  then  be  ready  for  use.  The  brown 
liquid  thus  obtained  will  be  much 
better  than  water  to  put  under  the  joint. 

Gravy,  Sage  and  Onion. — Prepare 
a little  more  sage  and  onion  stuffing 
than  is  required,  and  rub  a portion 
of  it  through  a sieve.  Mix  with  the 
pulp  as  much  good  stock  as  will  make 
the  requisite  quantity  of  gravy,  add 
a spoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce, 
let  all  boil  up  once,  and  serve. 

Gravy,  Seasoning  for.  — Put  I 

ozs.  of  white  pepper  into  a mortar, 
with  Yz  oz.  of  mace,  I oz.  of  nutmeg, 
two  drachms  of  cayenne,  a drachm 
of  ginger,  and  a drachm  of  cassia. 
Pound,  and  mix  thoroughly.  Put 
the  powder  into  a small  bottle,  and 
keep  it  closely  corked,  or  the  strength 
and  flavor  will  escape.  A pinch  of 
this  powder  will  season  half  a pint  of 
gravy. 

Gravy  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Gravy,  White  (for  fish).  — Take 

1 lb.  of  any  common  fish,  cut  it  into 
small  pieces,  and  put  these  into  a 
saucepan  with  two  pints  of  water, 
a small  bunch  of  savory  herbs,  the 
rind  of  a quarter  of  a lemon,  four 
cloves,  four  peppercorns,  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Cover  the  sauce- 
pan closely,  and  simmer  gently  for 
an  hour.  Strain,  and  when  the 
gravy  is  wanted  mix  a table-spoonful 
of  flour  in  a clean  saucepan  with 

2 ozs.  of  butter.  Beat  with  the  back 
of  a wooden  spoon  until  the  flour 
and  butter  are  perfectly  smooth,  add 
the  liquid  gradually,  boil  all  together 
for  a quarter  of  an  hour,  and  serve. 

Roux. — A mixture  of  flour  and 
butter.  See  Roux ; also  Thickening. 

Thickening,  Brown. — Take  i lb.  of 
flour.  Spread  it  on  a newspaper  or 
193 


Thickening  with  Butter  G R A V I E S , ETC.  Thickening,  Simple 


large  dish,  and  dry  it  thoroughly  be- 
fore the  fire,  and  afterwards  sift  it  care- 
fully. Put  I lb.  of  fresh  butter  into  a 
stewpan  over  a gentle  fire  and  melt  it 
very  gradually.  Skim  carefully,  and 
afterwards  pour  off  the  portion  that 
looks  like  clear  oil,  and  leave  un- 
touched the  white,  thick  substance 
which  will  have  settled  at  the  bottom. 
Pour  the  clear  oiled  butter  into  a clean 
stewpan,  mix  the  dried  and  sifted  flour 
thoroughly  and  gradually  with  it, 
and  beat  it  over  a gentle  fire  with  a 
wooden  spoon  until  it  forms  a thick 
mass.  Continue  to  stir  it  patiently 
until  it  is  lightly  colored.  Draw  it  to 
the  side  of  the  fire,  and  throw  in  with  it 
a slice  of  onion  for  flavoring,  and  do 
not  cease  to  stir  the  mixture  until  it 
no  longer  bubbles.  Take  out  the 
onion,  pour  the  roux  into  an  earthen 
jar,  and  let  it  get  cold.  When  wanted 
for  thickening,  mix  the  roux  with  the 
gravy,  and  stir  it  till  it  boils.  The 
gravy  only  attains  its  proper  consist- 
ency after  it  has  been  stirred  and 
boiled.  This  thickening  may  be 
mixed  with  either  hot  or  cold  liquor. 
If  cold,  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  it  boils. 
If  hot,  moisten  the  roux  gradually, 
and  off  the  fire,  with  the  gravy,  then 
pour  it  into  the  remainder,  and  stir 
it  over  the  fire  till  it  boils.  In  order 
to  cleanse  gravy  that  has  been  thick- 
ened, that  is,  to  remove  the  fat  which 
has  not  become  thoroughly  incor- 
porated, draw  the  saucepan  to  the  side 
of  the  fire  and  throw  in  a small  quan- 
tity of  lukewarm  water.  The  fat, 
etc.,  will  rise  to  the  surface,  and  may 
be  removed  with  a spoon.  Time  to 
brown  the  roux,  about  an  hour.  A 
dessert-spoonful  will  thicken  a pint 
of  gravy. 

Thickening  with  Butter  or  Butter 
and  Cream.  — Although  it  is  usual 
to  speak  of  thickening  sauce  or  soup 
with  butter  or  butter  and  cream, 
these  articles  do  not  by  themselves 
serve  to  thicken  the  liquor,  but  only 
to  make  it  smooth  and  rich.  A little 
cold  butter  added  at  the  last  moment 
to  sauce  greatly  improves  its  flavor; 
but  it  should  be  remembered  that  it 


must  not  be  put  in  until  the  sauce 
is  poured  into  the  tureen  in  which  it  is 
to  be  served,  and  that  then  it  should 
be  stirred  until  it  is  dissolved.  In 
the  same  way,  butter  or  a mixture  of 
butter  and  cream  may  be  added  to 
soups. 

Thickening  of  Egg.  — Boil  the 
sauce,  and  take  it  off  the  fire  for  two 
minutes  that  it  may  partially  cool. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  mix 
them  with  a spoonful  of  cold  broth  or 
water  and  a small  portion  of  the  hot 
sauce.  Stir  them  briskly  to  the  re- 
mainder of  the  sauce,  and  continue 
stirring  over  the  fire  until  it  is  very 
hot.  It  must  not  boil  or  it  will  curdle. 

Thickening  of  Farinaceous  Sub- 
stances. — Occasionally  arrow  - root, 
ground  rice,  or  flour  without  butter 
is  used  to  thicken  soups  and  sauces. 
In  this  case  put  the  thickening  sub- 
stance into  a basin,  moisten  gradu- 
ally with  a little  cold  stock,  water, 
or  milk,  and  beat  it  with  the  back  of  a 
spoon  until  no  lumps  are  to  be  found 
in  it.  With  one  hand  pour  this  batter 
into  the  soup  or  sauce,  which  should 
be  boiling  quickly  at  the  time,  and 
with  the  other  stir  it  briskly.  Let 
it  boil  for  a few  minutes  and  it  will  be 
ready  for  serving.  Invalids  and  per- 
sons of  delicate  taste  often  object 
strongly  to  butter  in  their  sauces. 

Thickening,  Quickly  Made  (for  im- 
mediate use).  — When  it  is  wished 
to  thicken  sauces,  and  brown  thicken- 
ing. is  not  at  hand,  dissolve  x/z  oz. 
of  butter,  and  then  mix  smoothly  with 
it  a table  - spoonful  of  flour.  Stir  it 
quickly  over  a gentle  fire  with  a wood- 
en spoon  for  three  minutes,  moisten 
gradually  with  a pint  of  stock  or 
broth,  let  it  boil  three  or  four  min- 
utes, season  properly,  and  it  will  be 
ready  for  use.  Sufficient  for  a pint 
of  sauce. 

Thickening,  Simple  (for  ordinary 
brown  soup).  — Put  a breakfast-cup- 
ful of  stock  into  a saucepan  with 
Y\  oz.  of  sage,  x/\  oz.  of  chopped 


194 


Green  Pease 


GRUEL 


Gumbo  Fil6 


onion,  % oz.  of  grated  lemon-peel,  and 
2 ozs.  of  celery.  Let  these  simmer 
gently  for  half  an  hour,  strain  the 
liquor,  and  rub  the  herbs  through  a 
fine  sieve.  Dissolve  6 ozs.  of  butter, 
and  incorporate  with  it,  gradually 
and  thoroughly,  6 ozs.  of  dried  flour. 
Stir  it  quickly  over  a gentle  fire  till  it 
is  lightly  browned.  Moisten  the  mixt- 
ure with  the  liquor  from  the  herbs,  and 
it  will  be  ready  for  the  soup,  which 
ought  to  boil  for  an  hour  after  it  is 
added.  Suitable  seasoning  will  of 
course  be  required  in  addition.  Time, 
three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Sufficient 
for  five  quarts  of  soup. 


Thickening,  White  (for  sauces). — 
In  making  white  thickening  for 
sauces  follow  exactly  the  directions 
given  for  making  brown  thickening, 
remembering  only  that  the  mixture 
must  not  be  allowed  to  color.  In  order 
to  prevent  this  it  must  be  baked  over  a 
very  gentle  fire,  and  it  must  not  re- 
main on  the  fire  so  long  as  in  the 
former  case.  When  done  enough  it 
must  be  turned  into  an  earthen  jar  and 
set  aside  for  use.  White  thickening 
is  used  for  thickening  white  sauces. 
Time  to  bake,  about  twenty  minutes. 
A dessert-spoonful  will  thicken  a pint 
of  gravy. 


Green  Pease. — The  following  reci- 
pes for  cooking  green  pease  will  be 
found  under  their  respective  headings 
as  indicated : 

Green-pea  Soup.  See  Soups. 

..  ..  and-tomato  Puree.  .. 

..  Pease.  See  Vegetables. 

Green-pepper  Salad.  See  Salads. 

Grills  and  Broils,  Gravy  for. 

See  Gravies. 

Grits,  Fried.  See  Vegetables. 

Grouse. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  grouse  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Grouse  k l'Anglaise.  See  Game. 

..  Mayonnaise  of. 

..  Salmi  of. 

Gruel,  Barley.  — Wash  % lb.  of 
pearl  barley  in  two  or  three  waters. 
Put  it  into  a saucepan  with  four 
pints  of  water  and  half  an  inch  of 


stick  cinnamon.  Simmer  gently,  un- 
til the  liquid  is  reduced  one-half ; then 
strain  and  return  it  to  the  saucepan, 
with  two  large  lumps  of  sugar  and 
two  wineglassfuls  of  port.  Keep  it  in 
a cool  place,  and  heat  it  as  required. 
Time,  about  an  hour  and  a half. 

Gruel,  Oatmeal.  — Mix  a table- 
spoonful of  oatmeal  very  smoothly 
with  a little  cold  water.  Pour  upon 
it  a pint  of  boiling  water,  stir  it  well, 
then  let  it  stand  for  a few  minutes  to 
settle.  Pour  it  back  very  gently  into 
the  saucepan,  so  as  to  leave  undis- 
turbed the  sediment  at  the  bottom 
of  the  gruel.  Let  it  simmer,  stirring 
occasionally  and  skimming  it  care- 
fully. It  may  be  sweetened  and  fla- 
vored with  wine  and  spice  or  grated 
ginger,  or  a little  salt  only  may  be 
put  in.  Time,  a quarter  of  an  hour 
to  simmer. 

Gumbo  Fil6  (with  oysters). 

See  Soups. 


H 


Haddock,  Baked.  See  Fish. 

Haggis,  Scotch.  See  Mutton. 


Hazel-nut  Macaroons.  See  Cakes. 
Heart,  Beef.  See  Beef. 


Halibut,  Boiled.  See  Fish. 

..  Breaded. 

Coquilles  of. 

Ham.  — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  ham  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Ham  Omelet.  See  Eggs. 

..  Boiled.  See  Pork. 

..  Broiled. 

..  Croquettes, 
and  Eggs 

..  Escalopes  au  Xer&s. 

..  Fingers. 

..  Fresh,  Stuffed  and 
Roasted. 

..  Roast. 

..  Roast,  with  Sherry. 

..  Saute,  with  Dandelion 
Puree. 

..  Turnovers. 

..  (Virginia,  to  Cure). 

..  York. 

..  and  Fowl  Potted. 

..  with  Aspic  Jelly. 

..  Salad.  See  Salads. 

Hamburg  Steaks.  See  Beef. 

Hard  Sauce.  See  Puddings. 

Hare,  Force-meat  for. 

See  Force-meats. 


Herbs,  Vinegar  of. — The  flavor  of 
herbs  may  be  extracted  by  being 
soaked  in  vinegar,  and  in  this  form 
may  be  used  for  soups  and  sauces, 
when  fresh  herbs  cannot  be  obtained. 
Pick  the  leaves  from  the  stalks, 
and  fill  a wide -mouthed  bottle  with 
them.  The  leaves  may  be  shaken 
together,  but  must  not  be  pressed 
down.  Pour  the  best  pickling  vine- 
gar over  them,  let  them  infuse  for 
a month,  then  strain  and  bottle  for 
use. 

Her  Majesty’s  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

Herring  Salad.  See  Fish. 

Hickory-nut  Macaroons. 

See  Cakes. 

Hoe  Cake. — Take  a quart  of  coarse, 
white  corn-meal,  mix  into  one  quart 
of  boiling  water  a cupful  of  milk  and 
a teaspoonful  of  salt.  Make  into 
a soft  dough  and  bake  on  a greased 
griddle  (or  hoe)  browning  both  sides. 
Serve  hot.  To  be  split  and  buttered 
when  eaten. 

Holiday  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

Hollandaise  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 


Hare,  Roasted. 
Hash. 

Hasty  Puffs. 
Hasty  Pudding. 


See  Game. 

See  Beef. 
See  Bread. 
See  Puddings. 

196 


Home-made  Bread.  See  Bread. 

Home-made  Cordials,  Syrups,  etc. 

See  Beverages. 

Home-made  Preserves. 

See  Preserves. 


Hominy 


HORS-D’OEUVRES  Huckleberries 


Hominy,  Baked.  See  Vegetables. 

..  Boiled. 

..  Cakes. 

..  Croquettes. 

Honey  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

Hop  Tea. — Put  the  hops  into  a 
covered  jug  with  boiling  water,  in 
the  proportion  of  i oz.  of  hops  to  a 
pint  of  water.  When  cold,  pour  off 
the  liquid  and  bottle  for  use.  A quar- 
ter of  a pint  taken  fasting  is  often 
found  beneficial  in  attacks  of  indiges- 
tion. If  double  the  quantity  of  hops 
is  used,  it  will  be  an  excellent  tonic. 

Horehound,  Candied.  See  Candy. 

Hors-d’oeuvres. — This  is  the  name 
given  to  small  dishes  which  are  hand- 
ed round  after  the  soup  and  fish,  and 
are  intended  to  serve  as  relishes  or 
incentives  to  the  appetite.  They  con- 


sist of  anchovies,  olives,  sardines,  oys- 
ters, pickled  herrings,  radishes,  oiled 
salads,  shell-fish,  and  dishes  of  a like 
description.  Or,  if  hot,  of  pasties  of 
all  kinds,  rissoles,  croquettes,  sweet- 
breads, etc.  They  are  generally  served 
on  small,  oval  dishes. 

Horseradish  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Hotch-potch  Scotch.  See  Soups. 

Hot  Cross  Buns.  See  Bread. 


Hot  Slaw. 


See  Salads. 


Huckleberries. — The  following  rec- 
ipes' for  cooking  huckleberries  will  be 
found  under  their  respective  headings 
as  indicated  : 

Huckleberry  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

..  Short  Cake. 

..  Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 


I 

ICES 

ICES,  ICE-CREAMS,  BISCUITS,  MOUSSES,  PARFAITS,  SHERBETS, 

SORBETS,  ETC. 


Water  Ices  are  made  of  the  juices 
of  ripe  fruits  mixed  with  syrup  and 
frozen,  and  it  must  be  remembered 
that  if  the  juices  are  sweetened  exces- 
sively they  will  not  freeze. 

Clarified  Sugar. — For  water  ices, 
clarified  sugar  should  be  used,  and 
this  may  be  made  by  dissolving  6 lbs. 
of  sugar  in  four  quarts  of  water.  Let 
it  then  come  slowly  to  a boil ; add  the 
white  of  an  egg,  well  beaten,  to  the 
water,  and  boil  ten  minutes,  when  it 
may  be  strained  and  bottled. 

j French  Ice-creams  are  based  on 
custards  made  of  scalded  milk  and 
the  yolks  of  eggs,  and  stirred  while 
freezing. 

Mousses,  Biscuits,  and  Parfaits  are 
made  of  whipped  cream,  which  is 
frozen  without  stirring. 

American  Ice-creams  are  made  of 
cream  (or  milk)  and  sugar,  flavored 
by  extracts  or  by  fruits,  and  stirred 
while  freezing. 

Punches  and  Sherbets  are  water 
ices  to  which  liquors  have  been  added. 

Fruits  should  be  pulped  and  strained 
to  discard  ski'is  and  seeds,  and  also 
to  avoid  lumps  in  the  cream. 

Cream  or  Milk  should  be  scalded  to 
facilitate  smoothness. 

Condensed  Milk  may  be  used  by  re- 
ducing it  with  water. 

Freezing  Mixture. — Three  parts  of 
ice,  crushed,  to  one  part  of  coarse  salt, 
is  the  ordinary  proportion.  More  salt 
is  used  for  frappes.  Moulds  should 
be  packed  full  and  all  joints  around 
the  cover  filled  with  butter  to  keep  out 


the  ice  and  salt.  To  unmould,  wrap 
the  mould  form  a moment  in  a towel 
dipped  in  hot  water  and  wrung  out. 

Almond  Ice. — Beat  the  yolks  of 
sixteen  eggs  with  i lb.  of  sugar  until 
creamy.  Pound  to  a paste  Yz  lb.  of 
blanched  almonds  with  the  white  of 
one  egg.  Add  two  cupfuls  of  water, 
put  in  a double  boiler,  and  stir  over 
the  fire  until  thick,  but  not  boiling. 
Add  a teacupful  of  candied  orange  and 
lemon  peel  and  turn  into  a freezer. 

Currant  Ice. — One  pint  of  the  juice 
of  red  currants,  to  which  have  been 
added  a few  raspberries  to  give  ad- 
ditional color.  Add  I Yz  lbs.  of  sugar, 
boiled  to  a syrup  with  one  quart  of 
water,  and  mix  the  juice  thoroughly 
with  the  syrup.  Strain  the  liquid  into 
the  mould  and  freeze.  Time,  half  an 
hour  to  draw  out  the  juice. 

Ginger  Ice.  — Make  a syrup  by 
boiling  together  ^ lb,  of  refined 
sugar  with  half  a pint  of  water  and 
the  thin  rind  of  a large  lemon  for  ten 
minutes.  Strain,  and  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  lemon-juice  and  Y\  lb. 
of  preserved  ginger,  half  of  which 
has  been  well  pounded  in  a mortar 
and  half  cut  into  thin  slices.  Mix 
thoroughly,  pour  into  a mould,  and 
freeze. 

Lemon  Ice.  — Rub  the  rind  of  six 
lemons  upon  twelve  large  lumps 
of  sugar,  squeeze  over  them  the 


Orange  Ice 


ICES,  ETC 


Caramel  Ice-cream 


strained  juice,  add  half  a pint  of  water 
and  a pint  of  syrup,  made  by  boiling 

lb.  of  sugar  in  three-quarters  of  a 
pint  of  water  until  the  sugar  is  dis- 
solved. Put  all  together  into  a jug 
and  leave  it  for  an  hour  or  two.  Then 
mix,  strain,  and  freeze  in  the  usual 
way.  Serve  in  glasses.  The  ice 
will  be  much  improved  if,  when  it  is 
beginning  to  set,  the  whites  of  three 
eggs,  beaten  to  a firm  froth,  and 
mixed  with  6 ozs.  of  powdered  sug- 
ar, are  stirred  into  it.  Leave  in  the 
freezer  until  wanted. 

Orange  Ice. — One  dozen  oranges, 
four  lemons,  one  pint  of  granulated 
sugar,  one  and  a half  pints  of  boil- 
ing water,  rind  of  one  orange  and 
one  lemon.  Squeeze  the  oranges  and 
lemons,  and  add  the  sugar  to  the 
juice.  Add  the  grated  rind  of  the 
orange  and  lemon  and  a little  water. 
Put  all  in  a glass  jar  or  crock,  and 
let  stand  in  the  ice -chest  all  night. 
Freeze,  and  when  about  to  serve  the 
ice,  pour  over  it  a small  quantity  of 
Jamaica  rum.  Serve  with  whipped 
cream  and  sponge  cake. 

Peach  Surprise  Ice.  — Into  one 
quart  of  chopped  peaches  stir  a cupful 
of  water,  I lb.  of  sugar,  and  the  un- 
beaten whites  of  five  eggs.  Turn  all 
into  the  freezer  and  grind  until  firm. 
The  dasher  whips  the  mass  into  a 
delicious,  frothy  “ surprise.”  You 
may  use  any  fruit  you  choose  in  the 
place  of  peaches. 

Pineapple  Ice.  — One  medium-sized 
pineapple,  either  fresh  or  canned ; 
mash  through  a colander,  and  add 


one  tumblerful  of  granulated  sugar 
dissolved  in  one  of  boiling  water. 
Put  all  in  a glass  jar  and  let  stand  in 
the  ice-chest  all  night.  Freeze  when 
you  are  ready,  and,  when  about  to 
serve  the  ice,  pour  over  it  I oz.  each 
of  curagoa,  brandy,  and  arrack,  which 
have  been  previously  mixed. 

Raspberry  Ice. — Four  cupfuls  of 
water,  two  cupfuls  of  raspberry-juice, 
two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  two  lemons — 
the  juice  alone.  Mix  the  juice  of  the 
raspberries  and  lemons  with  the  sug- 
ar and  let  them  stand  for  an  hour, 
strain  through  a wire  sieve,  add  the 
water,  and  freeze. 

Rum  Ice. — Rub  the  rind  of  a large, 
fresh  lemon  upon  three  or  four  lumps 
of  sugar  till  all  the  yellow  part  is 
taken  off,  and  add  as  much  sugar  as 
will  make  up  the  weight  to  Y\  lb. 
Put  this  into  a saucepan  with  a pint 
of  cold  water  and  a table-spoonful 
of  strained  lemon  - juice.  Stir  the 
syrup  over  the  fire,  and  when  the 
sugar  is  dissolved  add  gradually  the 
whites  of  three  eggs,  beaten  till  firm. 
Pour  out  before  it  begins  to  simmer, 
let  it  cool,  add  a quarter  of  a pint  of 
old  Jamaica  rum,  freeze  in  the  usual 
way,  and  serve  in  glasses. 

Strawberry  Ice. — Pick  three  pints 
of  ripe  berries,  crush  them  with  a sil- 
ver fork,  and  cover  with  I lb.  of  pow- 
dered sugar.  Set  aside  in  a cool 
place  for  half  an  hour,  then  add  to  the 
fruit  three  pints  of  water.  Pass 
through  a fine  hair  sieve  or  cloth, 
and  just  before  freezing  add  a pint  of 
picked  berries. 


ICE-CREAMS 


Biscuit  Ice-cream.  — Take  half  a 
dozen  sponge  biscuits  and  soak  in  a 
quart  of  cream  ; add  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  well  beaten,  and  Yz  lb.  of  sugar. 
Put  it  over  the  fire  to  thicken,  but  do 
not  allow  it  to  boil.  Take  from  the 


fire  and  whisk  until  cold,  add  a spoon- 
ful of  maraschino,  and  freeze. 

Caramel  Ice-cream. — The  founda- 
tion for  a caramel  ice-cream  is  made 
like  that  for  any  other,  by  heating  a 


199 


Chocolate  Ice-cream  ICE-CREAMS 


Glac6  Napolitain 


pint  of  milk  to  the  boiling-point  in  a 
double  kettle,  and  stirring  into  it  one 
cupful  of  sugar,  two  rounding  table- 
spoonfuls of  flour,  and  two  eggs  which 
have  been  beaten  together  until  light 
and  creamy.  When  the  milk  is  first 
set  over  the  fire,  put  one  cupful  of 
granulated  sugar  in  a clean  frying- 
pan  and  set  it  where  the  sugar  will 
melt,  watching  it  carefully  if  the  fire 
is  very  hot.  When  the  sugar  is  melt- 
ed it  will  be  brown  and  liquid,  like 
molasses,  and  should  then  be  turned 
into  the  foundation  custard  and  thor- 
oughly mixed  with  it.  Cook  the  whole 
ten  minutes,  and  set  away  to  get  cold. 
When  the  mixture  is  perfectly  cold, 
add  one  cupful  of  sugar,  a pinch  of 
salt,  one  quart  of  thin  cream,  and 
freeze,  using  not  more  than  three  pints 
of  salt  to  a gallon  freezer.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  turn  the  crank  continu- 
ously while  freezing  ice-cream,  all  that 
is  necessary  at  first  being  a sharp 
turn  or  two  every  few  minutes  to  re- 
move the  congealed  portions  from  the 
side  of  the  can ; but  when  the  freezing 
process  is  advanced,  then  the  stirring 
should  be  rapid  for  fifteen  minutes,  to 
make  the  mixture  light  and  creamy. 
Remove  the  beater,  stir  the  ice-cream 
well  with  a spoon  to  fill  up  the  space 
in  the  centre  of  the  can,  and  set  away 
for  two  hours  or  longer.  This  should 
turn  out  in  a perfect  mould,  and  will 
be  of  a pale  chocolate  color,  with  a 
delicious  flavor  of  burned  sugar.  A 
smaller  quantity  may  be  made  by  add- 
ing only  three  cupfuls,  or  even  a pint, 
of  cream  to  the  custard,  in  which  case 
less  sugar  should  be  used.  The  cara- 
mel flavor  will  be  strong  or  delicate, 
according  as  the  sugar  is  simply  melt- 
ed or  allowed  to  burn  a dark  color. 

Chocolate  Ice-cream. — Grate  x/z  lb. 
of  chocolate  very  fine.  Mix  it  into  a 
smooth  paste  with  a little  fresh  milk. 
Take  three  pints  of  morning’s  milk, 
put  it  on  the  fire  to  boil,  then  stir  in 
the  chocolate  paste.  Have  ready  the 
yolks  of  six  eggs  well  beaten  with  I lb. 
of  white  sugar.  Pour  the  chocolate 
over  this,  boiling  hot  from  the  kettle, 
and  put  all  together  back  on  the  fire, 


and  stir  all  the  time  until  it  thickens. 
Great  care  is  needful,  as  it  is  apt  to 
burn.  Whip  up  five  pints  of  cream, 
and  stir  in  when  the  chocolate  custard 
is  cold.  Season  slightly  with  vanilla. 
Now  beat  the  whites  of  the  five  eggs 
to  a stiff  froth,  and  add  gradually, 
while  beating,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
pulverized  white  sugar,  and,  as  soon 
as  they  are  well  blended  and  the  cream 
about  half  frozen,  put  into  the  freezer, 
and  you  will  find  the  addition  a great 
improvement. 

Cocoanut  Ice-cream. — Take  a fresh 
cocoanut  and  grate  it.  Pour  over  it  a 
quart  of  boiling  milk.  When  cold, 
strain  through  a cloth,  squeezing  it 
very  hard  to  get  all  the  milk  from  the 
cocoanut.  Add  to  this  milk  half  a 
pint  of  whipped  cream  and  Y\  lb.  of 
sugar.  Freeze. 

Coffee  Ice-cream. — Take  4 ozs.  of 
freshly  roasted  coffee  and  pour  a quart 
of  boiling  milk  over  it.  Allow  to  stand 
until  cold,  then  strain  through  a nap- 
kin ; add  half  a pint  of  whipped  cream 
and  lb.  of  sugar.  Freeze  as  usual. 

Glace  Napolitain. — Take  4 ozs.  of 
rice,  wash  it  thoroughly,  and  put  it  in 
a stewpan  with  a pint  of  milk,  a pint  of 
good  cream,  a pinch  of  salt,  and  2 ozs. 
of  sugar.  Let  the  rice  swell  consid- 
erably in  this.  When  it  is  tender 
enough  to  give  way  between  the  fin- 
gers, add  a stick  of  good  vanilla,  and 
boil  it  one  minute,  then  let  it  get  cold. 
When  cold,  take  all  the  cream  that  re- 
mains liquid,  and  put  it  in  a stewpan 
with  the  yolks  of  six  eggs ; if  there  is 
not  cream  enough,  add  to  it  a little 
milk.  Turn  this  on  the  fire  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  and  when  the  eggs  are 
well  done,  and  the  mixture  very  thick, 
let  it  cool.  Add  to  this  a pint  of 
double-whipped  cream,  and,  after  mix- 
ing the  cream  with  the  custard,  taste  if 
the  latter  is  sweet  enough.  Do  not 
make  it  too  sweet.  Then  take  some  out 
in  a basin  and  put  it  into  the  rice  only ; 
next  mix  together  the  rice  and  cream, 
take  out  the  vanilla,  and  put  all  the 
rest  into  the  freezer;  work  it  well  in 


200 


TABLE  SET  FOR  AN  INFORMAL  DINNER 


• 1 


Lemon  Ice-cream 


ICE-CREAMS  Pistache  Ice-cream 


the  ice.  When  quite  frozen,  put  it  in 
the  mould,  with  salt  all  round  the  ice. 
At  dinner-time  dip  the  mould  in  cold 
water  and  push  the  ice  off  the  mould, 
and  cover  the  gateau  with  the  cream 
that  you  have  put  by  in  the  basin.  In- 
dividual moulds  are  frequently  used. 

Lemon  Ice-cream.  — Rasp  the  yel- 
low rind  of  two  large,  fresh  lemons 
upon  x/z  lb.  of  loaf  sugar.  Powder  it 
and  strain  over  it  the  juice  of  one 
lemon.  Add  a quart  of  cream,  stir 
until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  freeze, 
and  serve. 

Macaroon  Ice-cream. — Scald  a pint 
of  milk  and  pour  it  slowly  upon  six 
eggs  beaten  light  with  two  cupfuls  of 
sugar.  Return  to  the  fire  in  a double 
boiler  and  cook,  stirring  constantly, 
until  you  have  a custard  that  will  coat 
the  spoon.  Then  remove  the  custard 
from  the  fire  and  set  aside  to  cool,  and 
add  a pint  of  cream  and  a teaspoonful 
of  vanilla.  Turn  into  a freezer  and 
grind  until  half  frozen.  With  a roll- 
ing-pin crush  ten  dry  macaroons  to  a 
coarse  powder  and  beat  thoroughly 
into  the  half -frozen  cream.  Recover 
the  freezer,  pack  down  in  ice,  and  salt 
for  three  hours. 

Maraschino  Ice-cream. — Mix  i lb. 

of  pulverized  sugar,  one-half  pint  of 
unsweetened  condensed  milk,  and  one 
pint  of  cream  thoroughly ; pour  in 
the  cordial  from  one  pint  of  maras- 
chino cherries  and  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  cognac.  Cut  the  cherries 
finely  and  add  them  last.  Freeze. 
Serve  in  small,  separate  moulds.  The 
same  cream  may  be  made  without  the 
maraschino  or  cognac,  simply  with  one 
cupful  of  strong  coffee  as  a flavoring. 

Neapolitan  Ice-cream  is  made  by 
placing  in  the  mould  layers  of  three 
or  more  varieties  of  ice-cream. 

Nesselrode  Ice-cream.  — One  pint 
of  syrup  of  loaf  sugar,  flavored  with 
vanilla ; fifty  fine,  large  chestnuts, 
boiled,  peeled,  pounded,  and  pressed 
through  a sieve;  one  quart  of  fresh 


cream;  the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  well 
beaten.  Moisten  the  strained  chest- 
nuts with  the  syrup,  adding  little 
by  little  the  cream  and  the  beaten 
yolks ; when  all  these  ingredients 
are  smoothly  mixed  together,  cook 
in  a bain-marie,  stirring  continually 
until  the  cream  begins  to  thicken; 
add  then  a piece  of  candied  citron, 
sliced  fine,  lb.  of  sultana  raisins, 
seeded  and  dredged,  and  a glassful 
of  maraschino;  add  lastly  a quart 
of  whipped  cream  and  the  yolks 
of  three  eggs  well  beaten;  stir  con- 
tinually until  the  cream  is  as  smooth 
as  velvet  and  very  thick ; and  freeze. 
See  also  Puddings  (Nesselrode). 

Peach  Ice-cream. — One  quart  of 
ripe,  sweet  peaches  after  they  have 
been  peeled  and  mashed  through  a col- 
ander, one  and  a half  cupfuls  of  gran- 
ulated sugar,  and  one  quart  of  cream. 
Dissolve  the  sugar  in  one  pint  of  the 
cream,  and  whip  the  other  pint  to  a 
froth.  Mix  the  cream  and  peaches 
together,  stir  well,  and  freeze. 

Pineapple  Ice-cream. — Beat  the 
yolks  of  six  eggs  thoroughly.  Mix 
with  them  half  a pint  of  lukewarm 
milk,  and  add  2 ozs.  of  loaf  sugar. 
Stir  this  custard  over  a gentle  fire  un- 
til it  begins  to  thicken,  then  pour  it 
out  and  stir  it  again.  Pare  a pine- 
apple and  cut  it  into  slices.  Boil  it 
for  five  minutes  in  a syrup  made  of 
x/z  lb.  of  loaf  sugar  and  a quarter  of  a 
pint  of  water.  Press  the  fruit  through 
a coarse  sieve,  and  stir  the  pulp  and 
the  syrup  into  the  custard.  Put  the 
crearrf  into  a mould,  and  freeze  in  the 
usual  way. 

Pistache  Ice-cream. — Blanch  and 
peel  % lb.  of  pistache  - nuts,  and 
pound  them  to  a smooth  paste  with 
a few  drops  of  rose-water.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  six  eggs,  and  pour  over  them 
a pint  and  a half  of  boiling  milk;  add 
4 ozs.  of  powdered  sugar,  and  stir  the 
custard  over  the  fire  until  it  begins  to 
thicken;  then  pour  it  out,  and  when 
cool  stir  into  it  the  pounded  pistaches 
and  a teaspoonful  of  spinach  color- 


201 


Plum-pudding  Ice-cream  ICE-CREAMS  Tutti-frutti  Ice  -cream 


ing.  Pass  the  whole  through  a sieve ; 
mould  and  freeze . If  preferred,  the  pis- 
tache  paste  can  be  mixed  with  cream 
instead  of  custard.  Time,  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  to  boil  the  custard. 

Plum-pudding  Ice-cream.  — Make 
a rich  chocolate  cream  by  taking  a 
quart  of  cream,  a cupful  of  sugar,  and 
half  a cupful  of  grated  sweet  chocolate, 
and  scald  with  an  inch  of  vanilla  bean ; 
strain  and  add  while  hot  a cupful  of 
chopped  raisins,  a cupful  of  chopped 
nuts,  and  a cupful  of  chopped  figs, 
and  stir  till  cool;  then  freeze,  and 
when  stiff  mix  in  half  a cupful  of 
brandy  in  which  a teaspoonful  of  pow- 
dered cloves  and  one  of  cinnamon  have 
been  soaked.  Pack  in  a square  brick, 
and  serve  in  small  slices  with  a spobn- 
ful  of  whipped  cream  with  each  piece. 

Raspberry  Ice-cream. — Mix  i lb. 

of  fresh,  ripe  raspberries  with  the  juice 
of  a lemon,  Y2  lb.  of  powdered  sugar, 
and  a pint  and  a half  of  thick  cream,  or, 
if  preferred,  a pint  of  cream  and  half 
a pint  of  milk.  Beat  the  mixture  in  a 
bowl,  rub  it  through  a sieve,  freeze  in 
the  usual  way,  and  leave  it  in  the  ice- 
pail  till  it  is  wanted.  If  more  con- 
venient, raspberry  jam  or  raspberry 
jelly  may  be  used  instead  of  the  fresh 
fruit,  and  when  this  is  done  very  little 
sugar  will  be  required ; or  two  portions 
of  red  currants  mixed  with  one  por- 
tion of  raspberries  may  be  used. 

Strawberry  Ice-cream.  — Take  I 
lb.  of  fresh,  ripe,  finely  flavored  straw- 
berries, sprinkle  Y2  lb.  of  powdered 
sugar  over  them,  bruise  them  well  with 
a wooden  spoon,  and  rub  them  through 
a sieve.  Mix  with  the  juice  a pint  of 
thick  cream,  the  juice  of  a lemon,  and 
a few  drops  of  cochineal.  Freeze  and 
mould  in  the  usual  way. 

Tea  Ice-cream. — Pour  a quart  of 
boiling  milk  over  I oz.  of  tea  leaves 
and  cover  for  five  minutes.  Strain 
into  a bowl  over  a caramel  made  of  2 
ozs.  of  sugar.  Beat  the  yolks  of  eight 
eggs  with  Yz  lb.  of  powdered  sugar 
and  a pinch  of  salt.  Mix  with  the 


milk  and  place  the  whole  over  the 
fire,  stirring  gently  until  it  thickens. 
When  cold,  freeze. 

Turret  Ice-cream.  — One  pint  of 

sweet  cream,  one  quart  of  milk,  one 
package  of  gelatine,  one  heaping  cup- 
ful of  sugar,  three  eggs,  beaten  light, 
white  and  yolks  separately,  Yz  lb.  of 
crystallized  fruit,  vanilla  flavoring, 
juice  of  one  lemon.  Soak  the  gelatine 
in  a cupful  of  the  milk  four  hours. 
Scald  the  rest  of  the  milk;  add  the 
sugar;  when  this  is  dissolved,  the 
soaked  gelatine.  Stir  over  the  fire 
until  almost  boiling  hot;  strain  and 
divide  into  two  equal  portions.  Re- 
turn one  to  the  fire  and  heat  quickly. 
When  it  nears  the  boiling-point,  stir 
in  the  beaten  yolks.  Let  all  cook 
together  two  minutes,  and  turn  into 
a bowl  to  cool.  While  it  is  cooling 
churn  the  cream  very  stiff,  and  beat 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  until  they 
stand  alone.  Divide  the  latter  into 
two  heaps,  and  as  the  yellow  gela- 
tine begins  to  form,  whip  one-half  of 
the  whites  into  it,  a little  at  a time. 
To  the  white  gelatine  add  the  rest 
of  the  whites  in  the  same  manner, 
alternately  with  the  whipped  cream. 
Flavor  the  yellow  with  the  vanilla, 
the  white  with  the  lemon-juice,  beaten 
in  at  the  last.  Wet  the  inside  of  a 
tall,  fluted  mould  with  water,  and 
arrange  in  the  bottom,  close  to  the 
outside  of  the  mould,  a row  of  crystal- 
lized cherries.  Then  put  in  a layer  of 
the  white  mixture,  on  this  the  apricots 
or  peaches,  cut  into  strips,  a layer  of 
the  yellow,  another  border  of  the  cher- 
ries, and  so  on  until  the  mixture  is  all 
used.  When  firm,  which  will  be  in  a 
few  hours,  turn  out  on  a handsome 
dish.  This  sounds  elaborate  and 
difficult,  but  it  is  not  so. 

Tutti-frutti  Ice-cream. — Take  a 
spoonful  each  of  preserved  straw- 
berries, raspberries,  apricots,  currants, 
green  gages,  ginger,  gooseberries, 
plums,  and  orange-peel  cut  into  small 
pieces.  Sweeten  a quart  of  cream 
with  lb.  of  sugar ; add  to  it  a glass 
of  noyau  and  the  fruit.  Freeze. 


202 


TABLE  SET  FOR  A FORMAL  SPRING  BREAKFAST 


Vanilla  Ice-cream 


ICE-CREAMS 


Maple  Mousse 


Vanilla  Ice-cream.  — One  pint  of 
cream  or  rich  milk,  two  cupfuls  of 
powdered  sugar,  one  table-spoonful  of 
flour,  one  egg,  one  quart  of  cream,  and 
one  table-spoonful  of  vanilla.  Beat  one 
cupful  of  sugar  and  the  egg  together 
until  they  are  creamy,  then  add  the 
flour  and  the  pint  of  milk  or  cream. 
Put  in  the  double  boiler,  and  stir  con- 
tinually till  thick  and  smooth  like 
custard.  Set  away  to  cool,  then  add 


the  flavoring,  another  cupful  of  sugar 
and  the  quart  of  cream,  and  freeze. 

Violet  Ice-cream. — Scald  one  quart 
of  cream  and  one  cupful  of  sugar 
in  a double  boiler  with  an  inch  piece 
of  vanilla  bean;  cool,  and  then  add 
violet  coloring  and  freeze.  Mould 
in  a ring,  and  fill  the  centre  with  a 
pyramid  of  whipped  cream  and  can- 
died violets. 


MOUSSES,  PARFAITS,  SHERBETS,  ETC. 


Chocolate  F rappe.  See  Beverages. 

Chocolate  Parfait. — Make  a choco- 
late cream,  with  the  addition  of  eggs ; 
let  it  just  heat  on  the  fire,  then  pass 
through  a tamis;  ice  this  mixture, 
working  in  a little  whipped  cream  and 
syrup.  When  a smooth  ice -custard 
is  obtained,  put  it  in  the  mould  in  ice 
for  two  hours.  Any  other  flavor  may 
be  substituted  for  chocolate. 

Coffee  F rappe.  See  Beverages. 

Coffee  Mousse  requires  one  cup- 
ful of  very  strong  coffee,  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs,  half  a cupful  of  sugar, 
and  two  quarts  of  whipped  cream, 
measured  after  whipping.  Beat  eggs 
and  sugar  together,  add  the  coffee, 
and  cook  in  a double  boiler  for  four 
minutes,  stirring  constantly.  Cool, 
add  the  whipped  cream,  and  put  in 
the  freezer.  Cover  the  can,  cork  up  the 
aperture  where  the  beater  goes  in, 
and  pack  in  ice  and  salt.  About  five 
pints  of  salt  will  be  necessary,  and 
the  mousse  should  stand  from  four  to 
six  hours  to  be  perfect. 

Currant  Mousse.  — Put  a quart  of 
ripe  currants  in  a saucepan,  with 
just  enough  water  to  keep  them  from 
burning,  and  cook  slowly  until  the 
juice  runs  freely.  Squeeze  them, 
and  measure  the  juice.  To  a pint 
of  this  allow  I lb.  of  white  sugar. 
Put  both  on  the  fire  and  bring  to  a 


boil.  Beat  six  eggs  very  light  in  a 
bowl,  and  pour  upon  them  the  boiling 
juice,  stirring  the  mixture  vigorously. 
Return  to  the  stove  and  cook  until  it 
thickens,  beating  all  the  while. 
Turn  it  out  to  cool,  continue  to  beat  it 
for  a few  minutes  after  it  comes  from 
the  fire,  and  freeze.  Raspberries, 
strawberries,  or  other  fruits  may  be 
used  instead  of  currants. 

Lemon  Sherbet  is  made  of  half  a 
pint  of  lemon-juice,  the  grated  rind  of 
two  lemons,  one  pint  of  sugar,  and  a 
scant  quart  of  water.  Boil  the  water 
and  sugar  together  twenty  minutes, 
and  when  this  syrup  is  cool  add  the 
other  ingredients.  Orange  sherbet  is 
made  in  the  same  way,  also  rasp- 
berry and  currant.  All  fruit  sher- 
bets are  improved  by  the  addition  of 
a little  lemon-  juice,  two  lemons  to  a 
pint  of  fruit  juice  and  a quart  of  wa- 
ter, and  in  every  case  they  are  finer  if 
the  sugar  and  water  are  first  made  into 
a syrup  by  boiling  twenty  minutes. 

Maple  Mousse. — Beat  the  yolks  of 
six  eggs  light.  Pour  upon  them 
three-quarters  of  a cupful  of  maple 
syrup,  made  very  hot.  Put  over  the 
fire  in  a double  boiler  and  cook,  stir- 
ring all  the  while,  until  it  thickens. 
Take  from  the  stove,  and  beat  until 
it  cools.  Whip  half  ~a  pint  of  cream, 
and  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a 
stiff  froth.  Stir  very  lightly  into  the 
custard,  turn  into  a melon-shaped 


203 


Mousse  a la  Bernhardt  ICE-CREAMS 


Sorbets 


mould,  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt,  as 
for  ice-cream.  It  should  stand  in  this 
for  at  least  four  hours. 

Mousse  a la  Sarah  Bernhardt.— 

Mince  in  a mincing-machine  about 
54  lb.  of  cold  roast  beef,  and  then 
pound  up  with  a pestle  and  mortar. 
Add  to  it  a thick  round  of  bread, 
soaked  in  milk.  Beat  and  mix  well 
together,  and  put  again  through  the 
machine.  Turn  into  a basin  and 
add  two  eggs,  i oz.  of  butter,  a table- 
spoonful of  pate  de  foie  gras  (first 
minced),  salt  and  pepper.  Stir  well. 
Well  butter  a jar  and  place  a buttered 
paper  at  the  bottom.  Into  this  put 
a piece  of  tomato  (not  too  juicy)  and 
four  pieces  of  truffle.  Then  add 
the  mixture,  well  pressing  it  down, 
and  place  a buttered  paper  on  the 
top.  Put  the  jar  and  its  contents 
into  a pan  of  hot  water,  and  put  in 
oven  for  about  fifteen  minutes.  When 
done  turn  out  into  an  entree  dish 
and  serve  with  Espagnol  sauce. 

Orange  Whips. — Beat  the  whites 
of  two  or  three  eggs  to  a froth;  dis- 
solve half  a box  of  gelatine,  y2  lb. 
of  sugar,  and  the  juice  of  six  or  eight 
oranges  together,  and  allow  the 
mixture  to  jelly  slightly ; then  add  the 
eggs,  which  should  be  stiff  enough  to 
stand  alone.  Mix  all  thoroughly  to- 
gether, put  into  moulds,  and  set  on  ice. 

Peach  Mousse.— Use  very  ripe  fruit, 
one  quart,  when  peeled  and  sliced. 
Rub  through  a sieve ; add  one  pint  of 
sugar  and  two  quarts  of  whipped 
cream.  Two  table- spoonfuls  of  wine 
or  maraschino  may  be  added  if  liked. 
Heap  the  mousse  lightly  in  a three- 
quart  mould  or  the  can  of  the  ice-cream 
freezer,  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt,  allow- 
ing it  to  stand  from  four  to  six  hours. 

Pineapple  Sherbet.  — Soak  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  gelatine  in  enough 
water  to  cover  it  for  two  hours.  Put 
in  a saucepan  one  pint  of  water  and 
one  of  granulated  sugar;  cook  for  five 
minutes.  Meanwhile  add  a little  hot 
water  to  the  gelatine,  and  when  it  is 


dissolved  pour  over  the  prepared  pine- 
apple with  the  hot  syrup.  When  cold, 
turn  into  a freezer.  Just  before  it  be- 
comes stiff  enough  to  take  out  the 
beater,  add  the  white  of  an  egg,  beaten 
light.  Repack  with  ice  and  salt,  and 
freeze  for  two  hours. 

Raspberry  Mousse.— One  quart  of 
rich  cream,  one  gill  of  raspberry- 
juice,  half  a cupful  of  powdered  sugar. 
Sweeten  the  cream,  mix  the  juice 
with  it,  and  whip  all  until  very  light 
and  frothy.  Freeze  as  you  would 
ordinary  ice-cream. 

Roman  Punch.— Put  2 lbs.  of  finely 
powdered  sugar  into  a bowl  and  strain 
over  it  the  juice  of  ten  lemons  and  two 
sweet  oranges.  Add  the  thin  rind  of 
a lemon  and  an  orange,  and  let  the 
mixture  remain  for  one  hour.  Strain 
the  syrup  through  muslin,  add  gradu- 
ally the  whites  of  ten  eggs,  beaten  to  a 
firm  froth,  and  freeze  the  punch  in  the 
usual  way,  being  careful  to  stir  it  vig- 
orously while  it  is  being  frozen.  A 
few  minutes  before  serving,  mix  to- 
gether a pint  of  old,  white  Jamaica 
rum,  half  a pint  of  green  tea,  half  a 
pint  of  brandy,  and,  if  desired,  a bottle 
of  champagne.  Add  the  ice,  and  stir 
briskly  till  it  dissolves.  A pint  of 
pineapple  syrup  may  be  added  or  not. 
This  punch  should  be  thick  and 
creamy  in  appearance. 

Another  way  ' Two  quarts  of  cold 

water,  one  of  Madeira  wine,  half  a 
pint  of  brandy,  the  juice  of  six  lemons, 
and  two  quarts  of  water.  This  is 
very  hard  to  freeze.  In  winter  use 
snow  instead  of  ice. 

Sherbets.  See  also  Beverages. 

Sorbets  are  simply  sherbets  half 
frozen,  and  they  are  generally  served 
in  glasses  after  the  game  at  elegant 
dinners.  Granites  are  a coarse  kind 
of  sorbets.  They  are  frozen  without 
beating  and  with  very  little  stirring, 
and  the  result  is  a rough,  icy  sub- 
stance which  is  very  refreshing.  Any 
land  of  fruit  juice  may  be  used  for 
these,  or  several  kinds  mixed.  A cof- 


204 


Strawberry  Mousse  ICE-CREAMS 


India  Sauce 


fee  granite  is  made  of  one  and  one- 
half  cupfuls  of  very  strong  coffee,  and 
one  pint  of  sugar  and  one  pint  of  water 
boiled  together  twenty-five  minutes. 
Add  the  coffee  to  this  syrup  and  set 
away  to  cool.  Mix  with  this  three 
pints  of  cream  and  pack  in  ice  and 
salt.  At  the  end  of  thirty  minutes 
scrape  from  the  sides  of  the  can,  and 
let  it  stand  for  one  hour  longer. 
There  is  to  be  no  beating  whatever. 
Serve  in  sorbet  glasses,  either  in  the 
middle  or  at  the  end  of  the  dinner. 

Strawberry  Mousse. — Mash  one 
quart  of  strawberries  and  one  pint  of 
granulated  sugar.  Let  this  stand  a 
couple  of  hours.  Meanwhile  soak  a 
quarter  of  a package  of  gelatine  in 
half  a cupful  of  cold  water.  Rub  the 
crushed  berries  through  a coarse 
sieve.  Pour  a little  boiling  water 
over  the  soaked  gelatine,  and  when  it 
is  dissolved  stir  it  into  the  strained 
fruit.  Stand  the  basin  containing 
this  mixture  in  a pan  of  ice-water  and 
stir  until  the  contents  begin  to  thicken. 
Then  add  three  quarts  of  whipped  and 
drained  cream.  Stir  all  until  well 
blended.  Pour  the  mixture  into  the 
freezer,  put  on  the  cover,  using  plenty 
of  ice  and  salt  around  the  freezer.  It 
will  require  four  hours  to  harden. 

Strawberry  Parfait. — Whip  a quart 
of  cream  to  a froth,  add  half  a pint  of 
strawberry-juice  and  a cupful  of  sugar, 
turn  carefully  into  an  ice-cream  mould, 
press  the  lid  down  tightly,  pack  in  salt 
and  ice,  and  let  freeze  three  hours. 

Strawberry  Sherbet. — Boil  one  pint 
of  granulated  sugar  and  one  and  a 
half  pints  of  water  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Take  from  the  fire  and  add  one  and 
a half  pints  of  strawberry  juice,  or 
the  berries  may  be  rubbed  through  a 
coarse  sieve ; add  the  juice  from  a large 
lemon.  Freeze  like  ice-cream.  Just 


before  removing  the  beater  stir  in  the 
whites  of  two  eggs,  beaten  light. 

Tortoni  Biscuit. — Make  a custard 
of  a pint  of  rich  cream  and  the  yolks 
of  half  a dozen  eggs  with  a cupful  of 
granulated  sugar.  Add  a pinch  of 
soda  to  the  cream  before  putting  it  on 
to  scald,  and  have  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs  beaten  until  very  thick  before 
adding  the  sugar,  after  which  beat 
five  minutes  longer.  Now  stir  very 
slowly  and  cautiously  into  the  boiling 
cream.  Set  the  custard  aside  until 
cold,  when  you  may  stir  into  it  a gill  of 
sherry  or  of  maraschino,  as  preferred. 
Freeze  until  quite  stiff,  when  the 
freezer  must  be  opened  and  a pint  of 
cream,  whipped  light,  beaten  into  the 
contents.  Fill  a mould  with  the  mixt- 
ure, repack  in  the  ice  and  salt,  and 
let  it  freeze  for  two  or  three  hours. 

Vanilla  Mousse. — Put  one  quart 
of  rich  cream  in  a double  boiler,  and 
let  it  cook  till  the  water  in  the  outer 
kettle  boils.  Then  remove  from  the 
fire,  add  lb.  of  sugar  and  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  vanilla.  Let  stand 
a few  minutes,  strain,  and,  when 
cool,  freeze.  Whip  one  pint  of  sweet 
cream  to  a stiff  froth,  and  when  the 
cooked  cream  is  nearly  frozen  stir  it 
slightly  in.  Continue  to  turn  the 
crank  until  the  mixture  is  sufficiently 
hard,  and  set  aside  till  ready  to  serve. 

Vanilla  Parfait. — Put  in  a sauce- 
pan one  cupful  of  sugar  syrup,  into 
which  beat  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs, 
and  heat  over  a moderate  fire,  stirring 
constantly  until  the  custard  will  coat 
a spoon  dipped  into  it.  Take  from 
fire,  add  the  vanilla  extract,  and  beat 
until  it  is  very  light ; then  add  a pint 
of  whipped  and  drained  cream,  stirred 
in  lightly.  Freeze  from  three  to  four 
hours.  Any  othe^  flavoring  can  be 
used  in  place  of  vanilla. 


Iced  Jelly  Cream. 
Iced  Tea,  etc. 


See  Creams. 
See  Beverages. 


Icing  for  Cakes, 
India  Sauce. 


Pies,  and  Tarts. 

See  Cakes. 
See  Sauces. 


205 


Indian  Chutney 


INDIAN  MEAL 


Italian  Salad 


Indian  Chutney.  See  Pickles. 

Indian  Curry.  See  Curry. 

Indian  Meal.  — Recipes  calling  for 
Indian  meal  will  be  found  under  the 
following  heads  : 

Indian  Fruit  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 
Indian-meal  Fritters.  See  Fritters. 

..  ..  Johnny  Cake.  See  Bread. 

..  Pudding,  Baked. 

See  Puddings. 

..  ..  Boiled. 

Ingleside  Waffles.  See  Bread. 

Irish  Moss. — When  boiled  it  pro- 
duces a thick,  nourishing,  and  not 
unpalatable  jelly.  Boiled  with  milk, 
or  even  with  water,  and  carefully 
strained,  it  forms  a most  nutritious 
and  soothing  diet  for  invalids,  es- 
pecially for  those  who  suffer  from 
chronic  diarrhoea  or  other  complaints 
which  are  attended  with  great  irri- 


tability of  the  mucous  membrane 
lining  stomach  and  intestines.  The 
jelly  may  be  sweetened  or  flavored 
in  various  ways,  fruit  juices,  either 
canned  or  in  a natural  state,  and 
coffee  or  chocolate,  prepared  as  for 
the  table,  being  preferable  to  any  of 
the  flavoring  extracts,  both  for  taste 
and  healthfulness.  For  invalids  it  is 
always  best  to  use  the  least  amount 
of  sugar  which  will  make  it  palatable. 


Irish  Stew.  — Lean  beef  cut  into 
small  slices  or  squares,  onions  sliced, 
cold  potatoes,  celery,  parsley,  etc., 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  all  stewed 
together  in  stock  or  water  until  the 
potatoes  have  absorbed  the  gravy. 
See  also  Beef. 


Italian  Cream. 
Italian  Pastes. 
Italian  Salad. 


See  Cream. 
See  Soups. 
See  Salads. 


J 


Jam. — Recipes  calling  for  jams  or 
making  the  same  will  be  found  un- 
der the  following  heads : 

Jam  Omelet.  See  Eggs. 

..  Tarts.  See  Pies. 

..  from  large  fruits. 

See  Preserves. 

..  ..  small  .. 

Jardiniere.  — This  is  a garnish 
made  of  cooked  vegetables,  which 
gives  its  name  to  the  dish  with  which 
it  is  served.  Thus,  fillet  of  beef  a la 
jardiniere,  mutton  a la  jardiniere, 
goose  a la  jardiniere,  simply  mean 
fillet  of  beef,  mutton,  and  goose  served 
with  a garnish  a la  jardiniere.  To 
prepare  this  garnish,  peel  two  or  three 
sound  carrots  and  turnips,  and  turn 
or  shape  them  in  fanciful  forms  of 
equal  size.  This  is  most  easily  done 
with  a vegetable  scoop  made  for  the 
purpose.  Two  ounces  of  French  beans 


cut  into  diamonds  may  be  added,  a 
cauliflower  divided  into  sprigs,  2 ozs. 
of  green  pease,  2 ozs.  of  asparagus 
tops,  and  a few  Brussels  sprouts. 
Cook  all  the  vegetables  first  in  a little 
broth  nicely  flavored  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  sugar.  Take  them  out 
when  thej’-  are  rather  underdone,  so 
that  they  shall  not  break  when  dished  ; 
drain  them  thoroughly,  put  them  into 
a saucepan  with  a table-spoonful  of 
lightly  colored  glaze,  and  shake  them 
for  two  or  three  minutes  over  the  fire. 
Arrange  them  round  the  dish  as  ef- 
fectively as  possible. 

Jellied  Meats. 

See  Beef,  Fish,  Veal,  etc. 

Jellied  Chicken.  See  Poultry. 

Jellies,  Fruit  (made  without  Gela- 
tine) . See  Preserves. 


JELLIES  MADE  WITH  GELATINE 


Jellies. — For  fruit  jellies  made  with- 
out gelatine,  and  jellied  fruit,  see  Pre- 
serves. 

Gelatines. — The  various  brands  dif- 
fer in  size  of  box.  The  proportions 
of  gelatine  to  water  are  usually  given 
on  the  box.  One  ounce  of  gelatine 
should  take  up  at  least  three  pints  of 
water. 

Unmoulding. — When  ready  to  serve, 
wrap  about  the  bottom  of  the  mould 
for  an  instant  a cloth  wrung  out  in 
hot  water,  and  invert  the  mould  upon 
a chilled  dish.  When  jelly  is  used  as 
a garnish,  make  it  in  a shallow  pan 


and  cut  into  strips,  dice,  diamonds,  or 
fancy  shapes  with  a knife  dipped  in 
hot  water. 

Colorings  to  Stain  Jellies,  Ices,  etc. 
— Pokeberries  gathered  before  frost, 
and  made  into  jelly  like  any  other 
fruit,  furnish  the  best  pink  we  know 
of.  For  a beautiful  red,  boil  fifteen 
grains  of  cochineal,  finely  powdered, 
with  a drachm  and  a half  of  cream  of 
tartar,  in  a half -pint  of  water,  very 
slowly  half  an  hour ; add  in  boiling  a 
bit  of  alum  the  size  of  a pea,  or  use 
beet-root  sliced  and  soaked  in  a very 
little  water.  For  white,  use  almonds. 


207 


Apples,  Jellied 


JELLIES 


Bread  Jelly 


blanched  and  finely  powdered,  with  a 
little  drop  of  water,  or  use  cream.  F or 
yellow,  use  yolks  of  egg,  or  a bit  of 
saffron  steeped  in  the  liquor  and 
squeezed.  The  flower  of  the  crocus 
may  also  be  used  for  this  purpose,  as 
it  has  no  taste.  For  green,  pound 
spinach  leaves  or  beet  leaves,  express 
the  juice,  and  boil  it  in  a teacup  set 
in  a saucepan  of  water  to  take  off  the 
rawness. 

Clarifying  Jellies. — Straining  once 
through  a felt  or  flannel  bag  will 
usually  clear  the  jelly  and  make  it 
limpid.  This  may  be  repeated  a 
second  time.  If  a sparkling  jelly 
is  desired,  clear  with  the  whites  of  two 
eggs  to  each  three  pints  of  jelly. 
Beat  the  whites  and  the  egg  shells 
until  it  froths,  but  is  not  a dry  froth. 
When  the  jelly  has  cooled  beat  in  the 
egg  whites.  Put  the  jelly  on  the 
fire  and  let  it  slowly  come  to  a sim- 
mer, and  keep  simmering  half  an 
hour.  Then  strain  twice  through 
flannel  or  felt  but  without  press- 
ure. 

Apples,  Jellied.  See  Fruits. 

Aspic  Jelly. — Put  a knuckle-bone 
of  veal,  a knuckle -'bone  of  ham,  a 
calf’s  foot,  four  cloves  stuck  into  one 
large  onion,  one  large  carrot,  and  a 
bunch  of  savory  herbs  in  two  quarts 
of  water,  and  boil  gently  until  it  is 
reduced  rather  more  than  half.  Strain, 
and  put  it  aside  to  cool.  Very  care- 
fully remove  every  particle  of  fat  or 
sediment,  and  place  the  jelly  in  a 
saucepan  with  a glassful  of  white 
wine,  a table-spoonful  of  tarragon  vin- 
egar, salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  the 
crushed  shells  and  beaten  whites  of  two 
eggs.  Keep  stirring  until  it  nearly 
boils,  which  may  be  known  by  its  be- 
coming white ; then  draw  it  to  the  side 
of  the  fire,  and  simmer  gently  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour.  Put  on  the  cover, 
let  it  stand  to  settle,  and  strain  through 
a jelly-bag  two  or  three  times  if  nec- 
essary, until  it  is  quite  clear.  Put  it 
into  a mould  which  has  been  soaked 
in  cold  water.  Time,  four  or  five 
hours. 


Aspic  Jelly  (a  quick  way  of  mak- 
ing).— Take  a pint  of  nicely  flavored, 
clear  stock  that  will  jelly,  put  it  into 
a saucepan  with  a glass  of  white 
wine  and  a dessert  - spoonful  of  tar- 
ragon vinegar.  Put  a large  table- 
spoonful of  gelatine  with  two  of  water, 
let  it  swell,  then  stir  it  in  with  the 
boiling  stock  till  it  is  dissolved;  add 
the  whites  and  crushed  shells  of  two 
eggs,  draw  it  back,  and  let  it  simmer 
for  ten  minutes ; strain  through  a 
jelly-bag  till  clear,  and  pour  it  into  a 
mould  that  has  been  soaked  in  cold 
water.  Time  to  make,  about  half  an 
hour.  Sufficient  for  a pint  and  a 
half  of  jelly. 

Aspic  Jelly  for  Garnishing.  — 

Take  two  pints  of  nicely  flavored 
stock,  that  will  jelly;  put  this  into  a 
saucepan  with  a blade  of  mace,  a 
table-spoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar, 
and  a glass  of  sherry.  Let  it  boil, 
then  stir  into  it  I oz.  of  the  best  gela- 
tine, which  has  been  soaked  in  a little 
cold  water.  When  again  cool  add 
the  beaten  whites  of  two  eggs,  let 
it  boil,  then  draw  it  on  one  side  to 
settle,  strain  through  a jelly  - bag 
until  quite  clear,  and  pour  it  on  a 
dish  which  has  been  standing  in  cold 
water.  Cut  it  into  dice  for  garnish- 
ing. Time  to  make,  about  an  hour. 
Sufficient  for  two  and  a half  pints  of 
jelly. 

Blackberry  Jelly. — Take  one  quart 
of  berry  juice  and  when  it  comes  to 
a boil  add  to  it  a half  box  of  soaked 
gelatine,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  gelatine  is  dissolved, 
which  will  take  but  a few  moments. 
Strain  into  a mould  and  set  away 
to  harden.  Serve  with  whipped 
cream. 

Blanc-mange.  See  Blanc-mange. 

Bread  Jelly  (a  delicacy  for  inva- 
lids).— Take  a French  roll,  cut  it  into 
thin  slices,  and  toast  them  on  both 
sides  to  a golden  brown.  Then  put 
them  into  a saucepan  with  a quart  of 
water  (spring  water,  if  it  can  be  had). 


Buttercup  Jelly 


JELLIES 


Coffee  Foam 


and  simmer  over  the  fire  until  they 
become  a sort  of  a jelly.  When  done, 
strain  it  through  a thin  cloth  and 
flavor  it  with  a little  lemon-juice  and 
sugar. 

Buttercup  Jelly. — Soak  one  pack- 
age of  gelatine  in  one  cupful  of  cold 
water  for  half  an  hour.  Heat  one  and 
a half  pints  of  milk  and  add  to  the 
gelatine.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs 
with  one  large  teacupful  of  sugar  and 
a pinch  of  soda ; add  to  the  jelly ; flavor 
with  vanilla.  Whip  the  white  of  an 
egg  and  stir  in  carefully;  pour  in  a 
fancy  jelly-mould  to  cool.  When  firm, 
turn  out  on  a glass  dish  and  serve 
with  whipped  cream. 

Calf’s-foot  Jelly. — Take  four  calf's 
feet,  properly  dressed  and  cleansed. 
Put  a gallon  of  water  into  a saucepan 
with  the  feet,  and  let  them  boil  very 
gently  but  continuously  until  the 
liquid  is  reduced  to  half.  Strain  it, 
and  let  it  stand  until  stiff.  Then  re- 
move every  particle  of  fat  from  it, 
pouring  a cupful  of  boiling  water  over 
it,  and  placing  a piece  of  blotting- 
paper  on  the  top  after  you  have  taken 
it  off,  to  insure  its  being  quite  free 
from  grease.  Remember  to  leave  the 
sediment  behind  when  you  use  the 
stock.  Time  to  boil  the  feet,  six  or 
seven  hours. 

Another  way : — A pint  and  a half 
of  calf's-foot  stock  put  into  a sauce- 
pan with  the  strained  juice  and  thinly 
peeled  rind  of  two  large  lemons,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  pounded  loaf  sugar, 
a glass  of  white  wine,  the  whites  and 
shells  of  four  eggs  (the  whites  must  be 
beaten,  but  not  to  a froth),  and  ^4  oz. 
of  gelatine.  Let  these  stand  for  a few 
minutes,  then  put  them  on  a slow  fire, 
and  stir  them  a little  until  the  liquid 
boils  and  rises  in  the  pan ; when  this 
point  is  reached  the  jelly  should  not 
be  touched  again.  Let  it  boil  for 
twenty  minutes ; the  scum  may  be 
gently  removed  as  it  rises.  Draw  the 
jelly  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  let  it 
stand  to  settle  twenty  minutes  longer. 
Wring  out  the  jelly-bag  in  hot  water, 
and  pour  the  jelly  through  it.  If  it  is 
*4 


not  perfectly  clear,  strain  it  two  or 
three  times  until  it  is.  Do  not  keep  it 
in  a metal  mould,  it  will  be  likely  to 
discolor  it.  It  should  be  kept  in  a cool 
place,  and  in  summer  will  most  likely 
require  a little  ice  around  it.  If  the 
stock  be  very  strong  the  gelatine  may 
be  dispensed  with,  but  it  is  always 
safer  to  put  a little  with  the  jelly. 

Charlotte  Russe.  See  Charlotte 
Russe. 

Claret  Jelly. — This  is  not  only  a 
delicious  dessert,  but  a very  orna- 
mental dish  if  served  in  glass  with 
whipped  cream  heaped  around  the 
edge.  Put  into  a deep  saucepan  three- 
quarters  of  a pint  of  water,  one  pint  of 
claret,  one  gill  of  lemon-juice,  the  rind 
of  one  lemon,  half  an  inch  of  stick 
cinnamon,  two  cloves,  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  red-currant  jelly,  2 ozs.  of  gela- 
tine, first  dissolving  it  in  a little 
water,  the  whites  and  shells  of  two 
eggs,  a few  drops  of  cochineal,  and  4 
ozs.  of  sugar.  Set  the  mixture  on  the 
fire  until  it  boils,  then  take  it  off  and 
let  it  stand  from  five  to  ten  minutes. 
Strain  through  a flannel,  but  do  not 
squeeze  the  flannel  to  hasten  the 
process  ; add  a few  drops  of  cochineal, 
if  obtainable,  to  brighten  the  color ; 
pour  into  a mould  and  place  in  the 
refrigerator  to  harden. 

Coffee  Foam. — One  cupful  of  strong- 
made  coffee,  half  a box  of  gelatine, 
half  a cupful  of  cold  water,  one  cup- 
ful of  sugar,  whites  of  three  eggs. 
Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  water  one 
hour.  Mix  with  it  the  sugar.  Pour 
over  both  the  boiling-hot  coffee,  and 
stir  until  they  are  thoroughly  dis- 
solved. Should  they  be  slow  in  reach- 
ing this  stage,  set  them  on  the  fire  a 
few  moments.  Strain,  and  set  in  a 
cold  place.  When  the  jelly  begins  to 
stiffen,  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to 
a standing  froth  and  whip  the  jelly 
into  it,  a spoonful  at  a time.  Beat 
about  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  with 
a Dover  egg-beater.  Set  to  form  in  a 
mould  wet  with  cold  water.  Make  a 
boiled  custard  of  the  yolks  of  the  three 


209 


Coffee  Jelly 


JELLIES 


Grape  Jelly 


eggs,  two  cupfuls  of  milk,  and  a half- 
cupful of  sugar,  and,  when  the  coffee 
foam  is  turned  out  into  the  dish,  pour 
the  custard  about  it.  It  is  very  good, 
even  without  the  custard. 

Coffee  Jelly. — Pour  a pint  of  boiling 
milk  through  a muslin  bag  containing 
3 ozs.  of  freshly  ground  coffee.  Put 
I x/z  ozs.  of  soaked  gelatine  into  a sauce- 
pan with  a pint  of  cold  milk,  an  inch 
of  stick  cinnamon,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  sugar.  Let  it  boil,  and 
stir  it  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved. 
Mix  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  the  cof- 
fee, strain  the  milk  and  gelatine  upon 
it,  pour  it  into  a mould  which  has  been 
immersed  in  cold  water,  and  let  it  re- 
main in  a cool  place  until  stiff.  It  will 
stiffen  in  about  twenty-four  hours. 

Cream  Jelly.  — To  one  quart  of 
calf’s-foot  jelly  put  one  pint  of  sweet 
cream,  one  pint  of  fresh  milk,  and  10 
ozs.  of  pulverized  white  sugar.  Flavor 
with  extract  of  rose  or  vanilla.  Melt 
together  in  a pan  over  the  fire,  strain, 
and  impart  a pale-pink  tint  by  the  use 
of  a little  cochineal.  Mould  precisely 
as  you  do  blanc-mange.  When  firm, 
turn  out  the  cream  jelly  into  the  cen- 
tre of  a shallow  dessert-dish  of  glass 
or  china.  Surround  it  with  syllabub 
whipped  to  a light  froth. 

Creams  (Bavarian,  etc.,  made  with 
gelatine).  See  Creams. 

Dantzig  Jelly. — Use  the  recipe  for 
wine  jelly,  omitting  the  wine  and 
adding  one -third  as  much  Dantzig 
brandy  which  contains  gold  - leaf. 
If  more  gold  is  wanted,  add  a sheet 
or  two  of  gold-leaf,  which  can  be 
bought  at  any  art  or  paint  store  in 
little  booklets  containing  twenty-five 
sheets.  The  price  is  about  fifty  cents 
per  booklet.  This  makes  a highly 
ornamental  jelly. 


Farina  Jelly. — Boil  one  quart  of 
new  milk;  while  boiling,  sprinkle  in 
slowly  % lb.  of  farina;  continue  the 
boiling  from  half  an  hour  to  an  hour ; 


season  with  a teacupful  of  sugar  and 
a teaspoonful  of  vanilla;  when  done, 
turn  out  into  a mould  and  place  it  on 
the  ice  to  stiffen.  Serve  with  whipped 
cream. 

Flummery. — Melt  2 ozs.  of  gelatine 
in  a pint  and  a half  of  water;  add 
a wineglassful  of  sherry  and  half  a 
glassful  of  brandy  with  the  juice  of 
three  lemons,  and  sugar  enough  to 
sweeten.  Stir  into  the  liquid  when 
cold  a pint  of  double  cream  which 
had  been  whisked  until  it  began  to 
thicken.  If  mixed  while  warm,  the 
lemon -juice  will  curdle  it.  Moulds 
should  be  dipped  in  water  or  oiled,  and 
the  flummery  should  be  allowed  to  set 
a day  before  turning  out.  Blanched 
almonds,  slit  lengthwise,  stuck  round 
the  flummery,  or  preserved  cherries, 
may  be  added. 

Flummery,  Raspberry. — Soak  1 oz. 
of  gelatine  in  cold  water  for  an  hour. 
Put  I lb.  of  raspberry  jam,  or,  better 
still,  1 lb.  of  fresh  raspberries,  into  a 
preserving-pan  with  half  a pint  of 
white-wine  vinegar.  Stir  the  mixt- 
ure constantly  till  it  boils,  let  it  sim- 
mer a few  minutes,  and  rub  it  through 
a sieve.  Mix  the  raspberry  pulp  with 
the  gelatine  and  as  much  sugar 
as  will  sweeten  it  sufficiently.  Boil 
the  mixture  once  more,  and  pass  it 
through  muslin  into  a mould  which 
has  been  well  soaked  in  cold  water. 
Put  it  in  a cold  place,  and  when  it  is 
set  turn  it  out  carefully.  Time,  five 
minutes  to  boil  the  fruit  with  the 
vinegar. 

Grape  Jelly  with  Gelatine.  — Pick 
the  berries  off  the  stems,  and  subject 
to  a gentle  heat  until,  when  mashed, 
the  juice  will  easily  run;  strain 
through  a colander,  then  through 
a flannel  jelly-bag.  To  every  pint 
of  juice  allow  1 lb.  of  fruit  sugar,  and 
to  every  quart  a scant  quarter  of  a 
box  of  gelatine.  When  the  juice  is 
put  to  boil,  add  the  gelatine,  and  warm 
the  sugar  in  a tin  basin,  taking  care 
it  does  not  stick  and  burn.  When 
the  juice  has  boiled  twenty  minutes 


210 


Fruit  Jelly 


JELLIES 


Pineapple  Jelly 


run  it  through  a hair  sieve,  put  back 
to  boil,  and  add  the  sugar.  Let  it 
bubble  once,  and  remove  from  the 
fire.  The  gelatine  makes  it  firm, 
which  it  is  difficult  to  do  unless  that 
or  isinglass  is  used.  Grapes  and 
cherries  do  not  jelly  easily  without 
gelatine. 

Fruit  Jelly.  — Dissolve  half  a 
box  of  gelatine  in  a cupful  of  cold 
water  half  an  hour,  pour  it  into  a 
pint  of  boiling  water,  then  add  the 
juice  of  two  or  three  lemons,  and  the 
same  quantity  of  orange- juice,  and 
a cupful  of  sugar.  Strain  through 
a flannel  bag  and  put  the  bowl  with 
the  jelly  on  ice.  Stir  slowly  until 
it  is  almost  cold,  then  beat  it  until 
it  is  stiff.  Pour  a little  of  the  jelly 
in  a cold  mould,  lay  in  it  a layer  of 
sliced  peaches,  then  another  layer  of 
jelly,  more  peaches,  until  the  mould 
is  full.  Put  it  in  the  ice-box  for  an 
hour  or  more  until  wanted.  Any 
berries  or  fruits  may  be  substituted 
for  the  peaches.  Serve  with  a cus- 
tard or  cream. 

Lemon  Jelly.  — Same  as  orange 
jelly,  substituting  lemons  for  the 
oranges. 

Macedoine  Jelly.  — All  varieties 
of  berries,  fresh  fruits  peeled  and 
sliced,  canned  or  preserved  fruits  cut 
up,  can  be  used  in  such  variety  as 
liked.  They  may  be  arranged  in 
layers  or  scattered  irregularly  through 
an  entire  mould  of  clear  jelly  flavored 
with  maraschino,  kirsch,  or  other 
liqueur. 

Orange  Jelly. — Dissolve  one  pack- 
age of  gelatine  in  half  a pint  of  cold 
water  for  an  hour.  Strain  one  pint 
of  orange-juice  into  a bowl  and  add 
the  juice  of  two  lemons,  two  cupfuls 
of  sugar,  one  pint  of  water,  and  the 
beaten  whites  of  two  eggs.  Put  the 
mixture  into  a saucepan.  When  it 
boils  add  the  soaked  gelatine  and 
let  it  cook  ten  minutes,  or  until  the 
sugar  and  gelatine  are  dissolved. 
Strain  and  mould. 


Oranges  in  Jelly.  — Make  a lemon 
jelly  by  soaking  a half-box  of  gelatine 
an  hour  in  a scant  cupful  of  cold 
water,  adding  to  it  then  one  cupful 
of  granulated  sugar,  the  juice  of 
three  lemons  and  the  grated  peel  of 
one,  and  pouring  upon  all  two  cup- 
fuls of  boiling  water.  If  the  gelatine 
does  not  dissolve  readily,  put  all  over 
the  fire  long  enough  to  bring  to  a 
boil.  Strain  the  jelly  and  let  it  cool. 
When  it  is  cold  enough  to  begin  to 
form,  arrange  sections  of  peeled  and 
seeded  oranges  around  the  inside  of  a 
cylindrical  mould,  and  pour  the  jelly 
carefully  over  them.  Should  the 
pieces  seem  inclined  to  float,  wait 
until  the  first  jelly  put  in  is  firm 
before  adding  the  rest.  Bury  in  ice 
and  salt,  so  that  the  jelly  may  be 
practically  frappe  before  it  is  served. 

Oranges,  Jellied.  See  Fruits. 

Peach  Jelly.  See  Fruits, 

Peach  Snow.  — Half  a box  of  gel- 
atine, one  pint  of  preserved  peaches, 
the  juice  of  one  lemon.  Soak  the 
gelatine  ten  minutes  in  half  a cupful 
of  cold  water ; dissolve  in  a cupful  of 
boiling  water.  Rub  the  peaches  and 
all  the  syrup  in  them  through  a fine 
strainer.  Strain  the  gelatine  and 
the  lemon  into  the  peaches  after 
straining  them.  Put  on  the  ice  until 
well  cooled  and  beginning  to  stiffen, 
but  be  very  sure  that  it  does  not 
stiffen  too  much.  Then  beat  in 
thoroughly  the  whites  of  three  eggs. 
Put  into  a mould  which  you  have 
first  dipped  into  cold  water,  and  put 
away  on  the  ice  until  you  wish  to 
serve  it.  Have  ready  a rich  custard, 
to  pour  around  it  in  the  dish  after  it 
is  taken  out  of  the  mould.  Use  for 
the  custard  the  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
one  pint  of  milk,  and  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  sugar.  Flavor  with 
vanilla. 

Pears  in  Jelly.  See  Fruits. 

Pineapple  Jelly. — Soak  two-thirds 
of  a box  of  gelatine  in  enough  cold 


Ribbon  Jelly 


JELLIES 


Tomato  Jelly 


water  to  just  cover  it  for  one  hour. 
Shred  or  chop  fine  two  small  pineap- 
ples (canned  pineapples  may  be  used). 
Strain  over  the  fruit  the  juice  of  one 
lemon  and  cover  with  one  pint  of 
granulated  sugar.  Add  a pint  of 
boiling  water  to  the  soaked  gelatine, 
and  when  it  is  all  dissolved  turn  it 
over  the  prepared  fruit.  Put  in  a 
mould  and  place  on  the  ice  until 
it  hardens.  Serve  with  whipped 
cream  or  boiled  custard.  When  gela- 
tine is  used  with  fresh  pineapple  it 
should  not  stand  more  than  an  hour 
or  two,  as  the  acid  in  the  pineapple 
will  turn  the  gelatine  to  liquid. 

Ribbon  Jelly. — When  making  a 
plain  jelly  divide  it  into  several  parts. 
Color  one  part  with  strawberry-juice 
or  a few  drops  of  red  coloring,  another 
part  with  orange,  another  with  green 
coloring.  Put  these  in  the  mould  in 
layers.  The  vegetable  colorings  can 
be  purchased  at  about  twenty -five 
cents  per  bottle. 

Russian  Jellies.  — These  are  made 
of  two  varieties  of  jellies  by  using  a 
double  mould.  The  outside  jelly 
is  usually  transparent.  Make  the 
outside  jelly  shell  by  placing  the 
smaller  mould  in  the  larger  one  and 
filling  up  the  space  with  a clear  jelly. 
Then  take  out  the  small  mould  and 
fill  the  centre  space  with  a colored 
jelly,  or  a Bavarian  cream,  or  a 
mixture  of  fruits  and  cream.  The 
combinations  possible  are  almost 
innumerable. 

Snow.  — Pour  a teacupful  of  cold 
water  over  I oz.  of  gelatine,  and  let  it 
stand  twenty  minutes.  Then  add 
one  pint  of  boiling  water.  When  it 
is  dissolved  let  it  cool,  but  not  congeal. 
Beat  the  whites  of  six  eggs  very  light, 
mixing  in  two  teacupfuls  of  powdered 
white  sugar.  Then  pour  in  the  gela- 
tine and  season  to  your  taste — vanilla 
or  rose  is  very  nice.  Beat  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  and  then  put  into 
blanc-mange  moulds,  previously  dip- 
ped in  cold  water.  When  turned  out, 
snow  is  eaten  with  whipped  syllabub 


or  custard,  and  is  generally  admired 
as  a dish  no  less  good  than  pretty. 

Sponge. — One  quart  of  strawberries, 
half  a package  of  gelatine,  one  cup- 
ful and  a half  of  water,  one  cupful  of 
sugar,  the  juice  of  a lemon,  the  whites 
of  four  eggs.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in 
water.  Mash  the  strawberries  and 
add  half  the  sugar  to  them.  Rub 
them  through  a sieve.  Boil  slowly 
the  remainder  of  the  sugar  and  the 
water  twenty  minutes.  Add  the  gela- 
tine to  the  boiling  syrup  and  take 
from  the  fire  immediately,  then  add 
the  strawberries.  Place  in  a pan  of 
ice-water  and  stir  very  hard  for  five 
minutes.  Add  the  whites  of  eggs 
and  beat  until  the  mixture  begins  to 
thicken.  Pour  in  the  moulds  and  set 
away  to  harden.  Serve  with  sugar 
and  cream,  or  with  a custard.  Rasp- 
berry and  blackberry  sponges  are 
made  in  the  same  way. 

Sultana. — Dissolve  I x/z  ozs.  of  gela- 
tine in  a little  water,  clean  % lb.  of 
Sultana  raisins  and  x/\  lb.  of  cur- 
rants, and  cut  x/\  lb.  of  candied  lemon- 
peel  into  small  dice.  Meanwhile  boil 
a vanilla  bean  five  minutes  in  one 
quart  of  cream,  add  Y\  lb.  of  sugar, 
remove  from  the  fire,  and  let  the  cream 
remain  covered  until  nearly  cold ; take 
out  the  bean,  beat  the  yolks  of  fifteen 
eggs  with  the  cream,  strain,  put  over 
a slow  fire,  and  stir  until  it  thickens, 
taking  care  not  to  allow  it  to  curdle; 
add  the  raisins,  currants,  lemon-peel, 
and  dissolved  gelatine,  and  the  whites 
of  the  eggs,  beaten  to  a stiff  froth  ; pour 
the  whole  mixture  into  a mould,  and 
set  it  on  the  ice  or  in  a cool  place  to 
harden.  When  ready  to  serve,  put 
the  mould  into  warm  water  for  a few 
minutes,  turn  out  into  a dish,  and 
garnish  with  whipped  cream  flavored 
with  vanilla. 

T omato  J elly. — Use  the  liquor  drain- 
ed from  canned  tomatoes  or  the  juice 
extracted  by  stewing  and  straining  the 
fresh  vegetable.  In  either  case,  have 
a pint  of  the  juice  in  which  has  been 
stewed  for  a few  minutes  a little  on- 


212 


Violet  Jelly 


JELLIES 


Johnny  Cake 


ion,  parsley,  three  cloves,  and  a pinch 
of  salt  and  cayenne.  Have  ready  a 
half-box  of  gelatine  which  has  been 
soaked  for  an  hour  in  a cupful  of  cold 
water ; turn  this  into  the  boiling  juice, 
stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved, 
remove  from  the  fire,  and  strain 
through  a flannel  jelly-bag  into  a 
mould  to  form.  Put  a half-box  of 
gelatine  in  a bowl,  and  pour  over  it  a 
small  cupful  of  cold  water.  When 
the  gelatine. has  soaked  for  an  hour, 
add  to  it  a cupful  of  granulated  sugar, 
the  juice  of  two  large  oranges  with 
the  grated  peel  of  one,  the  juice  of 
one  lemon,  a pinch  of  cinnamon,  and 
two  large  cupfuls  of  boiling  water. 
Stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved, 
and  strain  through  a flannel  jelly- 
bag  into  a mould  wet  with  cold  water. 
Allow  the  liquid  to  drip  through  the 
flannel,  but  do  not  squeeze  the  bag, 
as  that  will  make  the  jelly  cloudy. 
When  cool,  set  the  mould  containing 
the  jelly  in  the  ice-chest  or  other  cold 
place  for  at  least  twelve  hours  to  form. 

Violet  Jelly. — Take  a quart  of  water 
and  a cupful  of  granulated  sugar  and 
boil  to  a clear  syrup  for  two  minutes. 
Then  throw  in  a double  handful  of 
stemmed  violets,  and  slowly  simmer  on 
the  back  of  the  stove  for  fifteen  min- 
utes ; strain,  dissolve  a table-spoonful 
of  gelatine  in  a little  cold  water,  and 
mix  with  the  syrup  and  strain  again. 
Put  in  enough  violet  coloring  to  make 
it  the  natural  violet  tint,  and  pour  in 
a ring  mould  to  harden.  In  serving, 
turn  out  on  a round  dish  and  fill  the 
centre  with  a pyramid  of  whipped 
cream,  and  put  candied  violets  about 
in  it.  Surround  the  whole  with  a 
wreath  of  the  fresh  flowers  and  leaves. 

Wine  Jelly. — Soak  a package  of 
gelatine  for  an  hour  in  a cupful  of  cold 


water.  At  the  end  of  that  time  stir 
into  it  the  juice  and  grated  peel  of  a 
large  lemon  and  two  large  cupfuls  of 
granulated  sugar.  Pour  a quart  of 
boiling  water  over  this,  and  when  the 
gelatine  is  dissolved  add  a pint  of 
sherry  or  Madeira.  Strain  through  a 
flannel  bag  into  a mould  wet  with 
cold  water.  Set  in  a cold  place  to 
form. 

Another  way  : — The  stqck  for  it  is 
made  from  calves’  feet,  and  precisely 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  ordinary 
calf’s-foot  jelly  (see  Calf’s-foot  Jelly). 
To  a quart  of  the  jelly,  clarified,  add 
half  a pint  or  more  of  Madeira  and  a 
glass  of  brandy ; but  as  this  will  re- 
duce the  strength,  a little  gelatine, 
also  clarified,  say  about  Yz  oz.,  will 
give  it  the  necessary  firmness.  Time, 
one  hour. 

Another  way  : — To  one  box  of  gela- 
tine add  one  pint  of  cold  water,  then 
add  2 lbs.  of  sugar,  five  lemons,  whites 
of  three  eggs,  well  beaten,  bn+  not  to  a 
froth,  three  sticks  of  cinnamon.  Let 
boil  for  seven  minutes  without  stir- 
ring ; add  two  quarts  of  boiling  water, 
and  a tumblerful  of  brandy  or  whis- 
key. Strain  through  a bag  two 
or  three  times,  and  put  in  jelly 
moulds. 

Another  way  : — Dissolve  a box  of 
gelatine  in  enough  cold  water  to  cover 
it ; to  this  add  the  juice  of  three  lemons 
and  the  rind  of  one ; so  let  it  stand  for 
one  hour.  Remove  the  lemon-rind,  and 
stir  well  i Y*-  lbs.  of  sugar  through 
the  dissolved  gelatine ; pour  over  it 
(stirring)  a quart  of  boiling  water. 
When  this  is  thoroughly  amalgamat- 
ed add  the  wine,  and  strain  into  jelly 
glasses  or  moulds,  and  set  aside  in  a 
cold  place  to  harden.  It  requires  no 
further  cooking  if  the  water  is  actually 
boiling  when  poured  over  the  gelatine 
and  sugar. 


Jelly  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

..  Wafers. 

..  Custard.  See  Custards. 

..  To  Clarify  See  Jellies. 

..  Custard  Tartlets.  See  Pies. 


Jenny  Lind  Cake. 
Jenny  Lind  Soup. 
Johnny  Cake. 


213 


See  Cakes. 
See  Soups. 
See  Bread. 


Jugged  Veal 


JUNKET 


Junket 


Jugged  Veal. 
Julienne  Soup. 
Jumbles. 


See  Veal. 
See  Soups. 
See  Cakes. 


Junket.  — In  warm  weather  this 
must  be  made  not  more  than  an  hour 
or  two  before  it  is  needed.  Into  a 


quart  of  milk  stir  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  powdered  sugar,  a teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  extract,  and  a table-spoonful 
of  liquid  rennet.  In  a warm  room  the 
milk  will  soon  become  “ set  ” like  a 
custard,  when  it  must  be  put  on  the 
ice  until  needed.  Serve  with  sugar 
and  cream  in  the  same  bowl  in  which 
it  was  formed. 


K 


Kabob.  — This  is  an  Indian  dish, 
and  is  usually  made  of  mutton,  veal, 
or  fowl.  Its  peculiarity  is  that  it  is 
cut  into  pieces,  seasoned  rather  highly, 
then  fastened  together  with  skewers, 
and  thus  both  cooked  and  served. 
For  mutton  kabobs,  take  either  the 
loin  or  the  best  end  of  the  neck.  Re- 
move the  skin  and  fat,  and  cut  the 
meat  into  steaks.  Mix  half  a pint 
of  fine  bread  - crumbs  with  a small 
nutmeg,  grated,  a dessert  - spoonful 
of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  a table- 
spoonful of  salt,  a teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  and  a small  pinch  of  cayenne. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs.  Dip 
the  chops  into  these,  and  afterwards 
into  the  bread-crumbs,  twice.  Fasten 
them  together  in  the  position  in  which 
they  were  before  they  were  cut,  put 
a skewer  through  them,  tie  them  to 
the  spit,  and  roast  before  a clear  fire. 
Baste  them  liberally  with  some  good 
dripping  and  the  contents  of  the  pan. 
Have  half  a pint  of  good  brown  gravy, 
thickened  and  flavored,  ready  to  pour 
over  the  mutton  before  sending  it  to 
table.  Time,  an  hour  and  a half  to 
roast.  Kabobs  are  frequently  cur- 
ried, or  are  served  with  a curry 
sauce. 

Ketchups.  See  Pickles. 

Kidneys.  — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  kidneys  will  be  found  un- 
der their  respective  headings  as  indi- 
cated : 

Kidney,  Beef. 

Omelet. 

..  Mutton. 

..  Pie. 

..  with  Mushrooms. 

Kisses. 


Koumiss. — Champagne  bottles  and 
fine  corks  are  necessary.  Fill  a bot- 
tle three-quarters  full  of  milk ; add  a 
table-spoonful  of  fresh  brewer’s  (beer) 
yeast  and  a table  - spoonful  of  sugar 
syrup.  Shake  thoroughly,  then  fill 
up  the  bottle  with  milk  and  shake 
again.  The  corks,  which  should  have 
soaked  in  hot  water  on  a stove  for  at 
least  an  hour,  are  driven  in  with  a 
heavy  mallet,  and  are  then  to  be  tied 
down  securely.  Stand  them  up- 
right in  a cool,  dark  place,  say  on 
the  floor  of  the  cellar.  After  two  or 
two  and  a half  days  lay  the  bottles 
on  their  sides  until  required  for  use. 
If  brewer’s  yeast  cannot  be  got,  bake 
one  fifth  of  a cake  of  compressed 
yeast  (dissolved)  to  each  quart  of 
milk. 

Koumiss  contains  the  full  nutri- 
ment of  milk  and  the  stimulating 
qualities  of  wines  and  liquors  without 
their  ill  effects.  It  is  agreeable  and 
refreshing  in  taste,  and  highly  diges- 
tible and  nutritive  in  character. 

Kromeskies  are  croquettes  cooked 
in  the  Russian  manner : Mince  the 
remains  of  any  cold  meat,  fish,  poultry, 
or  shell-fish,  as  for  croquettes ; season 
and  shape  them,  as  usual.  Instead 
of  dipping  them  in  egg,  and  after- 
wards in  bread  - crumbs,  cut  some 
slices  of  cold,  fat  bacon  (boiled)  as 
thin  as  possible ; wrap  up  the  cro- 
quettes in  these,  dip  each  one  in  a 
little  frying  batter,  fry  them  in  hot, 
clarified  fat,  and,  when  brown  and 
crisp,  arrange  on  a hot  dish ; garnish 
with  fried  parsley  and  serve  imme- 
diately. Kromeskies  may  be  made 
according  to  any  of  the  recipes  given 
for  croquettes,  and  should  be  cooked 
as  above. 


See  Beef. 
See  Eggs. 
See  Mutton. 
See  Veal. 


See  Cakes. 


215 


Lady  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

Fingers. 

Sutherlands. 

Lamb.  For  various  recipes  see 
Mutton. 

Lapland  Cakes.  See  Bread. 

Lard,  To. — It  is  a great  improve- 
ment to  all  dry,  lean  meats,  and  re- 
quires to  be  neatly  done,  but  for  this 
a little  practice  is  all  that  is  neces- 
sary. Cut  the  bacon  (which  for 
white  meat  should  be  cured  without 
saltpetre,  for  fear  of  reddening  the 
flesh)  into  narrow  stfips  of  equal 
length  and  thickness.  Put  each  strip 
of  bacon,  which  is  called  a lardoon, 
into  a larding  - needle.  On  the  point 
of  this  take  up  as  much  of  the  flesh 
as  will  hold  the  lardoon  firmly,  draw 
the  needle  through,  and  the  bacon 
with  it,  leaving  about  half  an  inch 
at  each  side.  Repeat  the  process 
as  evenly  as  possible,  and  at  equal 
distances,  until  the  meat  requiring 
to  be  larded  is  covered  with  these 
checkered  rows. 

Layer  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

Lemons. — The  following  recipes  for 
using  lemons  will  be  found  under  their 
respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Lemon  Sherbet.  See  Beverages ; also 
Ices. 

Syrup.  See  Beverages;  also 
Preserves. 

..  Blanc-mange. 

See  Blanc-mange. 

Cake.  See  Cakes. 

Cheese  Cakes. 

Puffs. 

..  Tartlets. 


Drops. 

See  Candy. 

Cream. 

See  Cream. 

Custard. 

See  Custards. 

Floating  Island. 

Meringue. 

Creams  without  Cream. 

See  Fruits. 

Rice. 

Snow. 

Solid. 

Sponge. 

.. 

Fritters. 

See  Fritters. 

Ice. 

See  Ices. 

Ice-cream. 

Jelly. 

See  Jellies. 

Pickled. 

See  Pickles. 

Pie. 

See  Pies. 

Tarts. 

Turnovers. 

Marmalade. 

See  Preserves. 

Dumplings. 

See  Puddings. 

Pudding. 

Sauce. 

See  Sauces. 

Souffle. 

See  Souffles. 

ade  for  Invalids.  See  Fruits. 

Salad. 

See  Salads. 

Lentils. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  lentils  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indi- 
cated : 

Lentils,  Boiled.  See  Vegetables. 

Savory. 

Soup.  See  Soups. 


Lettuce. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  lettuce  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Lettuce,  Salad.  See  Salads. 

Soup.  See  Soups. 

Boiled.  See  Vegetables. 

Stuffed. 


Lily  Cake. 


See  Cakes. 


216 


Lima  Beans 


LOBSTERS 


Louise  Pudding 


Lima  Beans.  See  Vegetables. 

Limes,  Preserved.  See  Preserves. 

Liqueurs.  — The  name  liqueur  is 
applied  to  any  alcoholic  preparation 
flavored,  perfumed,  or  sweetened  so 
as  to  be  more  agreeable  to  the  taste. 
These  preparations  are  very  numer- 
ous ; the  following  are  among  the  prin- 
cipal : Absinthe,  which  is  spirit  sweet- 
ened and  flavored  with  the  young  tops 
of  a species  of  artemisia.  Aniseed  cor- 
dial, made  by  imparting  to  weak  spirit 
the  flavor  of  aniseed,  coriander,  and 
sweet  fennel  seed,  and  sweetening  it 
with  a highly  clarified  syrup  of  refined 
sugar.  Clove  cordial,  flavored  with 
bruised  cloves,  and  colored  with  burn- 
ed sugar.  Curagoa,  made  in  the  West 
Indies.  Kirschwasser  is  made  in  Ger- 
many and  Switzerland  from  cherry- 
juice  fermented.  The  name  signifies 
cherry  water.  Kiimmel  is  prepared  in 
the  usual  way  with  sweetened  spirit, 
flavored  with  cumin  and  caraway- 
seeds.  Maraschino  is  distilled  from 
bruised  cherries.  The  wild  fruit  is  not 
used,  but  a delicately  flavored  variety 
grown  only  in  Dalmatia.  Noyau,  or 
Creme  de  Noyau,  is  a swTeet  cordial 
flavored  with  bitter  almonds  (bruised). 
Peppermint  consists  of  ordinary  sweet- 
ened gin,  flavored  with  the  essential 
oil  of  peppermint,  which  is  previous- 
ly rubbed  up  with  refined  sugar,  to 
enable  it  to  mix  with  the  very  weak 
spirit.  Chartreuse  fellow  and  green) 
prepared  from  a mixture  of  herbs,  is 
made  by  French  monks.  Eau  de 
Dantzig  contains  gold-leaf,  and  is 
frequently  used  to  ornament  jellies. 
It  is  made  of  brandy  highly  flavored. 
Vanilla,  lemon,  orange,  and  other 
flavors  are  obtainable  at  any  grocers. 
All  liqueurs  are  useful  in  flavoring. 


See  Beverages  for  recipes  of  home- 
made liqueurs  or  cordials. 

Little  Creams  (for  luncheon). 

See  Creams. 

Liver,  Beef.  See  Beef. 

Liver,  Calf’s.  See  Veal. 

Liver  Force-meat.  See  Force-meats. 

Loaf  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

Loaf,  Veal.  See  Veal. 

Lobsters.  — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  lobsters  will  be  found  un- 
der their  respective  headings  as  indi- 
cated : 

Lobster  a la  Newburg.  See  Fish. 

Baked. 

..  Broiled. 

Casserole  of. 

..  Coral  Sauce. 

Coquilles  of. 

Creamed. 

Curried. 

..  Farce. 

..  Fricasseed. 

Jellied. 

..  Patties. 

Ragout  of. 

Salad,  Marseillaise. 

Shells  of. 

Souffle. 

Stewed. 

Stuffed. 

Salad.  See  Salads ; also  Fish. 
Salad  Dressing. 

Salad  Loaves. 

Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

..  Souffle.  See  Souffles. 

Soup  or  Bisque.  See  Soups. 

Louise  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 


MACARONI,  SPAGHETTI,  VERMICELLI, 
NOODLES,  POLENTA,  ETC. 


Macaroni  requires  abundance  of 
water  to  cook  properly,  at  least  three 
quarts  of  salted  boiling  water  to  Yz  lb. 
of  macaroni.  The  water  should  boil 
rapidly  and  the  macaroni  should  be 
stirred  occasionally  with  a fork.  It 
should  boil  thirty-five  minutes  for 
the  small  and  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  for  the  large.  After  the  mac- 
aroni is  cooked  it  should  be  thoroughly 
drained  in  a colander.  Vermicelli  and 
spaghetti  require  less  time  than  mac- 
aroni in  boiling. 

Another  way  : — Put  half  the  con- 
tents of  the  package  into  the  sauce- 
pan. Cover  with  plenty  of  cold  water 
and  boil  slowly  on  the  back  of  the 
range  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Drain  thoroughly  ; place  the  macaroni 
in  a pudding-dish,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  add  one  cupful  of  cold 
milk,  and  sprinkle  in  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  grated  cheese  (Parmesan 
or  Gruy&re  preferred)  and  one  table- 
spoonful of  butter.  Bake  until  brown. 

Sauce  for  Macaroni. — Take  a car- 
rot, a small  onion,  a bit  of  celery, 
a leaf  of  thyme,  half  a bay-leaf,  two 
peppers,  one  clove,  a bit  of  parsley, 
and  fry  them  in  a table-spoonful  of 
butter.  When  the  vegetables  are 
well  colored,  stir  in  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour,  and  let  the  flour  brown. 
Add  a quart  of  tomatoes,  and  simmer 
for  half  an  hour.  Stir  this  frequently, 
and  when  it  is  done  strain  it  through 
a sieve.  Add  a teaspoonful  of  salt, 
a salt-spoonful  of  pepper,  and  a tea- 
spoonful of  sugar.  This  tomato  sauce 
will  be  enough  for  i Yz  lbs.  of  macaroni. 


But  the  sauce  will  keep  a long  time 
in  cold  weather.  Take  a large  dish, 
put  a layer  of  macaroni  in  the  bottom, 
put  a table-spoonful  of  Parmesan 
cheese  over  it,  and  moisten  it  well  with 
the  tomato  sauce.  Continue  this 
till  the  dish  is  full,  and  cover  it  with 
tomato  sauce.  Set  the  dish  of  mac- 
aroni in  the  oven  for  about  ten  minutes, 
and  then  serve  it. 

Macaroni,  Baked,  with  Oysters. — 

Boil  it  until  tender.  Butter  a baking- 
dish  and  put  in  a layer  of  macaroni. 
Sprinkle  with  salt,  paprika,  cracker 
dust,  and  tiny  bits  of  butter.  Al- 
ternate layers  of  macaroni  and  oysters 
until  the  materials  are  used,  having 
macaroni  for  the  top  layer.  Pour  over 
all  the  liquor  from  the  oysters  and 
half  a cupful  of  cream.  Bake  thirty- 
five  minutes  in  a hot  oven,  covering 
the  dish  with  a tin  plate  the  first  fifteen 
minutes. 

Macaroni  au  Gratin.  — Boil  and 
drain  as  usual.  Put  the  macaroni 
in  a saucepan  with  a little  butter 
and  equal  parts  of  Parmesan  and 
Swiss  cheese  grated.  Stir  gently, 
and  as  soon  as  the  cheese  has  melted, 
serve. 

Macaroni  Milanese.  — Boil  the 

macaroni  as  usual ; drain  it  in  a 
colander ; then  put  it  into  a deep 
earthen-ware  baking-dish  in  suc- 
cessive layers  of  macaroni  and  grated 
cheese.  A little  cayenne  pepper  great- 
ly improves  the  flayor  also.  Lay 
218 


Macaroni,  Pat6  of 


MACARON  I Noodles,  or  Nouilles 


on  the  top  slices  of  fresh  butter,  % lb. 
being  enough  for  a large  dishful. 
Pour  over  it  enough  unskimmed 
morning's  milk  to  cover  the  whole, 
and  bake  in  a regularly  heated  oven 
for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  Serve 
up  quickly,  and  do  not  let  it  become 
dry  by  exposure  to  too  intense  a heat. 
Be  careful  in  purchasing  macaroni 
to  get  the  genuine  Italian  article. 

Macaroni,  Pate  of. — Boil  6 or  8 

ozs.  of  macaroni  in  good  veal  broth, 
drain,  and  cut  it  into  equal  lengths 
of  two  inches.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a. 
pie-dish  with  macaroni,  and  on  this 
lay  a quenelle  of  force-meat,  placed 
equally  with  any  kind  of  poultry  or 
game,  boned  and  in  fillets,  sweet- 
breads, cockscombs,  previously  stew- 
ed with  truffles  or  mushrooms,  and 
minced.  Put  these  with  alternate 
layers  of  the  macaroni  and  meat,  and 
an  equal  quantity  of  cream  and  rich 
gravy  to  fill  the  dish.  Bake  with  a 
crust  over  the  top.  Parmesan  cheese 
should  accompany  this  dish,  or  it  may 
be  mixed  with  the  macaroni.  Time, 
thirty  minutes  to  swell  the  macaroni ; 
to  bake,  half  an  hour. 

Macaroni  Pie  and  Game. 

See  Game. 

Macaroni  Soup. — Plain  beef  soup 
to  which  macaroni  is  added  just  be- 
fore serving.  The  macaroni  should 
have  been  previously  boiled. 

Macaroni  Timbales. 

See  Noodles,  Timbales. 

Macaroni,  Titellis. — Take  lb. 
of  macaroni,  boil  it  in  salt  and  water 
until  soft.  Take  one  quart  of  toma- 
toes, half  a pint  of  water,  2 ozs.  of  fat 
bacon.  ' Cut  into  small  pieces  one  on- 
ion, a small  bunch  of  parslev,  and 
boil  all  these  ingredients  together  for 
half  an  hour.  Then  pass  the  mixture 
through  a colander,  and  add  a table- 
spoonful of  butter,  seasoning  with  pep- 
per and  salt  to  your  taste.  Put  it  on 
the  fire  again,  and  let  it  boil  five  min- 
utes. Let  the  macaroni  and  the  to- 


mato sauce  both  be  very  hot.  Put  a 
layer  of  macaroni  and  one  of  grated 
cheese,  then  pour  a ladleful  of  the 
sauce  over  it,  and  so  on.  Arrange  it 
in  a tureen,  and  serve  as  soup.  It  is 
eaten  from  deep  plates,  although  not 
liquid,  and  generally  relished.  Maca- 
roni prepared  after  this  recipe  may  be 
used  as  a vegetable. 

Noodles,  Buttered.  — Throw  the 
noodles  into  boiling  water,  and  let 
them  boil  for  ten  minutes.  Take 
them  up  with  a strainer,  put  them  on 
a hot  dish ; melt  some  fresh  butter  in 
a stewpan,  sprinkle  a large  handful 
of  bread-crumbs  in  it,  and  let  them 
remain  until  they  are  lightly  browned, 
then  put  them  upon  the  noodles. 
Clarify  a little  more  butter,  if  the 
first  portion  was  dried  up  in  brownin  g 
the  crumbs,  and  pour  it  over  the  dish  ; 
serve  very  hot.  Time,  ten  minutes  to 
boil  the  noodles. 

Noodles,  or  Nouilles. — Noodles  are 
made  of  delicate  pastry,  cut  up  into 
ribbons  and  various  shapes,  and  used 
as  a substitute  for  vermicelli  and  mac- 
aroni, either  in  making  fritters  or  pud- 
dings, or  for  serving  with  cheese  or  in 
soup.  Take  y*  lb.  of  fine  flour,  put  it 
on  the  pastry-board,  make  a hole  in 
the  centre,  and  in  this  put  two  eggs. 
Add  a pinch  of  salt,  oz.  of  butter, 
and  a teaspoonful  of  cold  water,  and 
mix  all  together  into  a very  firm, 
smooth  paste.  Leave  it  a little  while 
to  dry,  then  roll  it  out  as  thin  as  pos- 
sible, and  cut  it  into  thin  bands  about 
an  inch  and  a quarter  in  width.  Dredge 
a little  flour  upon  these,  and  lay  four 
or  five  of  them  one  above  another ; 
then  cut  them  through  into  thin  shreds, 
something  like  vermicelli ; shake  them 
well,  to  prevent  their  sticking  together, 
and  spread  them  out  to  dry.  Noodles 
cannot  be  made  without  a straight 
rolling-pin  and  smooth  pastry-board. 
When  wanted  for  use,  drop  them 
gradually  into  boiling  water,  stirring 
gently  with  a wooden  spoon  to  keep 
them  from  getting  lumpy.  Let  them 
boil  from  six  to  twenty  minutes,  then 
take  them  up  with  a strainer;  drain 


219 


Noodles,  Timbales  MACARONI  Spaghetti,  Ravenna 


them  well,  and  spread  them  out  on  a 
coarse  cloth.  If  thoroughly  dried, 
they  will  keep  any  length  of  time 
stored  in  tin  canisters. 

Noodles,  Timbales. — Put  in  three 
quarts  of  salted  boiling  water  2 lbs. 
of  fine  egg  noodles,  boil  six  minutes, 
drain  well.  Butter  a platter  about 
three  inches  deep,  put  inside  of  it  a 
white  buttered  paper ; pour  the  hot 
noodles  over  it,  and  place  another  sim- 
ilar platter  over  the  noodles.  Put 
a weight  over  the  two  platters,  and 
let  cool  off  thoroughly.  When  cool, 
cut  the  timbales  with  a small,  emp- 
ty, buttered,  plain  mould;  cut  down 
through.  Roll  the  timbales  in  beaten 
egg,  and  afterwards  in  bread-crumbs. 
Then  fry  for  three  minutes  in  hot 
fat.  After  three  minutes  remove, 
cool  them  off  a little,  and  with  a round 
knife  remove  all  the  inside,  leaving 
only  a thickness  of  a quarter  of  an 
inch ; have  the  bottom  part  thick 
enough  to  retain  the  gravy. 

Nouilles  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Mush.  See  Porridge. 

Polenta,  Italian. — This  is  an  Italian 
and  American  dish,  made  from  Indian 
corn  flour  in  America  and  Italy,  but 
in  England  semolina  is  used  for  the 
purpose.  Four  ounces  of  this  will 
thicken  a quart  of  milk ; the  semolina 
is  stirred  into  it  when  the  milk  is  on 
the  point  of  boiling,  and  simmered  for 
about  ten  minutes  after.  Throw  the 
polenta  into  a dish  to  get  cold ; cut  it 
into  slices,  powder  it  thickly  with  grat- 
ed Parmesan,  moisten  it  with  salad  oil 
or  clarified  butter,  and  bake.  Serve 
quite  hot,  with  more  cheese  on  a sepa- 
rate dish.  Time,  half  an  hour  to  bake. 

Polenta,  Savory. — Salt  a pint  of 
boiling  water,  put  it  on  the  fire,  and 
stir  into  it  enough  yellow  corn  meat 
to  make  a good  mush.  Cook  about 
an  hour  until  thoroughly  done. 
Take  out  by  the  spoonful  and  put 
upon  a dish.  Have  ready  a rather 
highly  seasoned  tomato  sauce ; pour 


this  over  the  polenta ; sprinkle  with 
cheese ; set  the  dish  in  the  oven  three 
minutes,  and  send  to  table.  If  you 
have  a cupful  of  good  brown  gravy 
in  the  house,  it  can  be  used  instead 
of  the  tomato  sauce. 

Spaghetti  and  Gravy. — The  gravy  : 
lb.  of  butter,  four  table-spoonfuls 
of  sweet  oil,  three  cloves  of  garlic. 
Stew  the  garlic  in  the  oil  and  butter 
until  the  garlic  is  brown.  Put  in 
then  one  cupful  of  dried  mushrooms, 
and  stew,  adding  the  water  that  the 
mushrooms  were  soaked  in.  Then 
add  any  sort  of  meat,  and  stew  it 
well  (until  it  is  all  in  rags) ; add  half 
a can  of  tomatoes,  half  a teaspoon- 
ful of  thyme,  and  a few  bay-leaves. 
Stew  slowly  and  stir  at  times,  just 
often  enough  to  keep  from  burning. 
Cook  slowly  about  an  hour  and  a 
half ; add  salt  and  pepper.  The 
spaghetti : Have  a large  pot  for 
the  “ pastry/'  as  the  Italians  call  it. 
Allow  four  quarts  of  water  to  i lb. 
of  spaghetti.  Add  salt  as  you  think 
it  is  liked.  When  the  water  boils, 
add  the  spaghetti  and  boil  until 
cooked,  which  should  be  in  about 
twenty  minutes ; stir  while  boiling. 
When  done,  strain  off  the  water. 
Have  a deep  dish ; put  in  a layer  of 
spaghetti,  and  then  a layer  of  grated 
cheese,  then  the  gravy;  and  repeat 
these  layers  until  the  dish  is  full. 
Any  meat  is  good  for  the  gravy,  and 
chicken  is  especially  delicious ; cut 
it  in  small  bits  so  that  it  will  cook 
faster. 

Spaghetti,  Ravenna. — Break  into 
one-inch  lengths  two  cupfuls  of  spa- 
ghetti; throw  it  into  boiling  salted 
water,  and  cook  until  tender.  When 
done,  drain  off  the  water  and  put 
the  spaghetti  on  a very  hot  platter. 
Have  ready  the  whites  of  three  hard- 
boiled  eggs  cut  into  strips.  Put  these 
with  the  spaghetti,  and  pour  over  it  a 
cupful  of  white  sauce,  made  by  cook- 
ing together  a table-spoonful  of  flour 
and  two  of  butter  until  they  bubble, 
adding  a cupful  of  milk,  stirring  this 
until  it  thickens,  and  then  seasoning 


220 


Vermiceilli 


MACARONI 


Marble  Veal 


with  salt  and  pepper.  Grate  the 
yolks  of  the  hard-boiled  eggs  over 
the  top  of  the  dish,  set  in  the  oven  a 
moment,  until  well  heated,  and  serve. 

Vermicelli.  — Vermicelli  is  a prep- 
aration of  wheaten  flour,  of  a sul> 
stance  similar  to  macaroni.  It  is 
in  the  form  of  long  threads,  and 
derives  its  name  from  its  worm-like 
appearance.  It  is  used  in  soups 
and  broths,  and  for  making  pud- 
dings, etc. 

Vermicelli  a la  Reine.  — Blanch 
the  vermicelli  in  boiling  water,  drain 
it,  and  throw  it  into  some  rich  con- 
somme well  seasoned.  When  done, 
a short  time  before  serving  thicken  it 
with  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  mixed 
with  cream,  and  pour  the  vermicelli 
into  the  tureen  for  fear  the  thickening 
should  get  too  much  done,  which 


would  be  the  case  if  it  remained  on 
the  corner  of  the  stove. 

Vermicelli,  Timbale.  — Put  in  a 

saucepan  one  quart  of  milk,  with 
x/\  lb.  of  granulated  sugar,  one  tea- 
spoonful of  vanilla  extract,  or  any 
preferred  flavor,  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  good  butter ; when  at  the  boiling- 
point,  add  Yz  lb.  of  vermicelli.  Cook 
twenty  minutes,  remove  from  the 
fire  and  cool.  Add  to  the  vermicelli 
two  whole  eggs,  mix  well,  and,  lastly, 
add  four  table-spoonfuls  of  whipped 
cream.  Mix  again.  Butter  a quart 
mould ; pour  the  vermicelli  in  it.  Put 
the  mould  in  a deep  pan  half  filled 
with  hot  water.  Bake  in  a hot  oven 
for  twenty  minutes.  Put  a round, 
hot  plate  over  the  mould,  and  turn 
the  timbale  out.  Serve  around  it  a 
hot  marmalade  of  fruits,  the  kind  to 
suit  the  taste. 


Macaroon  Ice-cream. 
Macaroons. 
Macedoine  of  Fruits. 


See  Ices. 
See  Cakes. 
See  Fruits. 


der  their  respective  headings  as  indi- 
cated : 

Mangoes,  Oil.  See  Pickles. 

..  Pepper. 

Stuffed. 


Macedoine  Jelly.  See  Jellies. 

Mackerel. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  mackerel  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Mackerel,  Baked.  See  Fish. 

Baked  Fillet  of. 

Boiled. 

(Fresh)  Broiled. 

Spanish,  Salad. 

Madeira  Cream.  See  Creams. 
Mahogany  Cakes.  See  Bread. 
Maitre  d’Hotel  Butter.  See  Butter. 
Maitre  d’Hotel  Sauce. 

See  Sauces. 

Mangoes.  — The  following  recipes 
calling  for  mangoes  will  be  found  un- 

221 


Maple  Sugar. — The  following  rec- 
ipes for  cooking  maple  sugar  will  be 
found  under  their  respective  headings 
as  indicated  : 

Maple  Cream  Cake.  See  Cakes. 
..  Layer  Cake. 

..  Balls.  See  Candy. 

..  Caramels. 

..  Creams. 

..  Taffy. 

..  Cream  Custard. 

See  Custards. 
..  Mousse.  See  Ices. 

Maraschino  Flummery. 

See  Custards. 

Maraschino  Ice-cream. 

See  Ices. 

Marble  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

Marble  Veal. 


See  Veal. 


Marinade 


MARZIPAN 


Meats 


Marinade. — A marinade  is  a flavor- 
ed pickle  in  which  fish  and  meat  are 
soaked  for  a while  before  being  cooked. 
Sometimes  the  liquor  and  seasoning 
are  boiled  together,  and  allowed  to 
get  cold  before  being  used.  The  mar- 
inade can  then  be  employed  again 
and  again,  if  it  be  boiled  occasionally. 
When  a small  quantity  only  is  re- 
quired, the  marinade  is  used  raw. 

Marinade,  Cooked. — Fry  two  on- 
ions, two  carrots,  two  bay-leaves,  three 
shallots,  a bunch  of  parsley,  a sprig 
of  thyme,  and  a clove  of  garlic  in 
3 ozs  of  butter.  Pour  on  one  quart 
of  water  and  one  quart  of  vinegar, 
and  boil  for  three  minutes.  Add 
pepper  and  salt,  and  store  for  use. 

Marinade,  Raw  (for  small  portions 
of  food,  such  as  fillets  of  fish  and 
slices  of  poultry).  — Put  a faggot  of 
herbs  with  a little  pepper  and  salt 
into  a dish  ; pour  on  it  a gill  of  vinegar 
and  a table-spoonful  of  oil.  If  liked, 
onion  may  be  used  instead  of  or  as 
well  as  herbs. 


Marinaded  Eggs. 
Marlboro  Tarts. 
Marmalades. 
Marrons. 
Marsh-mallows. 


See  Eggs. 
See  Pies. 
See  Preserves. 
See  Chestnuts. 
See  Candy. 


quick  one,  as  it  has  to  be  kept  up  till 
the  almonds  are  reduced  to  a thick, 
smooth  consistency,  and  the  longer 
the  grinding  in  the  mortar  is  done 
the  smoother  is  the  result,  and  it  is 
desirable  that  it  should  be  almost 
as  smooth  as  oil.  When  as  smooth 
as  you  can  get  it,  add  an  equal 
weight  of  confectioner's  white  sugar, 
or  honey,  and  put  it  on  the  stove  in 
a porcelain  saucepan  or  in  a double 
boiler,  continually  stirring  and  smooth- 
ing and  pressing  it  together  with  a 
big  wooden  spoon.  Whether  sugar 
or  honey,  work  it  together  till  it  no 
longer  clings  to  the  side  of  the  sauce- 
pan and  has  become  a tolerably 
compact  mass ; then  remove  from  the 
fire,  and  after  it  is  sufficiently  cool 
pour  it  out  on  a clean  bread-board, 
and  work  into  it,  as  if  it  were  a lump 
of  dough,  another  pound  of  the  sugar ; 
and  that  done,  roll  it  into  a long  strip 
from  a quarter  to  a half  inch  thick, 
and  cut  it  into  lozenge  - shaped  or 
circular  cakes  two  or  three  inches 
in  diameter,  put  a narrow  rim  of 
the  paste  round  the  cake,  and  then 
set  it  into  a warm  oven,  but  not  a 
hot  one,  just  long  enough  to  give  it 
the  faintest  color  imaginable,  or  let 
it  dry  off  naturally,  and  so  keep  it 
snow-white.  It  is  now  good  enough 
to  set  before  the  king  without  any- 
thing more. 

Mayonnaise  Dressing. 

See  Salads ; also  Sauces. 


Marzipan. — Take  2 lbs.  of  shelled  al- 
monds and  loosen  the  skins  by  throwing 
them  into  hot  water,  and  then  blanch 
them  by  repeated  baths  of  stone-cold 
water,  and  when  drjT  bray  them,  half 
a dozen  at  a time,  in  a marble  mortar, 
with  a sprinkle  for  every  half-dozen 
either  of  rose  - water  or  of  orange 
flower,  as  the  taste  directs,  the  latter 
being  a little  more  pungent.  If  to 
about  every  two  dozen  sweet-almonds 
one  bitter-almond  is  added,  the  prod- 
uct is  a trifle  more  spirited  than  with- 
out the  bitter  - almond ; but  it  is  op- 
tional. The  grinding  of  the  nuts 
into  a smooth  mass  is  not  a very 


Meagre  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Meat,  Extract  of. 

See  Extract  of  Meat. 

Meats. — A complete  list  of  recipes 
for  cooking  beef  will  be  found  under 
Beef ; for  cooking  veal,  under  Veal ; 
for  cooking  mutton,  under  Mutton ; 
for  cooking  lamb,  under  Mutton ; for 
cooking  pork,  under  Pork.  See  also 
the  various  divisions  of  recipes  un- 
der Soups,  Sauces,  Sandwiches  and 
Canapes,  Game,  Salads,  Gravies  and 
Thickenings,  Force-meats  and  Stuff- 
ings, etc.,  etc.,  and  special  articles  or 


Meats,  Potted 


MILK 


Mock  Turtle  Soup 


combinations  of  meats  under  their  re- 
spective names,  such  as  Sausages, 
Olla  Podrida,  Agrodolce,  Sweetbreads, 
Tripe,  etc.,  etc. 

Meats,  Potted. — To  pot  meat  is  one 
way  of  preserving  it  longer  than 
would  be  possible  in  the  ordinary  way  ; 
and  in  potting  it  this  is  done  by  pound- 
ing the  flesh  to  a pulp  in  a mortar, 
mixing  it  with  salt  and  spices,  press- 
ing it  into  a jar,  and  covering  it  with 
a thick  coat  of  melted  butter  or  lard 
to  exclude  the  air.  The  jar  is  then 
tied  down  tightly  with  bladder  or 
oiled  paper.  The  remains  of  any 
tender,  well-roasted  meat  will  answer 
just  as  well  for  potting  as  if  it  were 
dressed  for  the  purpose ; but  care 
should  be  taken  first  that  the  meat 
is  cut  through,  and  that  every  little 
piece  of  skin,  fat,  sinew,  and  gristle 
is  removed,  and  afterwards  that  it  is 
pounded  so  thoroughly  that  not  a 
single  lump  is  to  be  found  in  it.  Care 
is  required,  too,  in  seasoning  it,  and 
it  is  better  to  add  the  spices  gradually, 
and  to  keep  tasting  the  meat  until  it 
satisfies  the  palate — for  additional 
spice  can  be  put  in  when  it  cannot 
be  taken  out.  At  the  same  time 
potted  meat  is  worth  nothing  unless 
it  is  pleasantly  flavored,  and  it  is 
almost  universally  liked  rather  highly 
seasoned.  The  meat  should  be  cold 
before  it  is  cut,  and  the  butter  should 
be  cool  before  it  is  poured  upon  the 
paste.  The  gravy,  too,  should  be 
drained  thoroughly  from  the  meat, 
or  it  will  not  keep.  Dry  and  salted 
meats  will  need  more  butter  than 
fresh  white  ones. 


tight  with  antiseptic  cotton,  lay  them 
in  cold  water  and  boil  for  at  least 
an  hour,  and  do  not  take  them  out 
until  the  water  is  cold,  nor  remove 
the  stopper  until  the  milk  is  to  be 
used. 

To  scald  milk,  put  it  in  a double 
boiler.  As  soon  as  the  water  in  the 
lower  pan  boils,  the  milk  is  scalded. 

Sour  milk  is  useful  for  many  pur- 
poses, especially  in  making  biscuits, 
etc. 

When  sour  milk  or  molasses  is  used 
in  baking  omit  cream  of  tartar  or 
baking-powder,  using  soda  only. 

Milk  Punch.  See  Beverages. 

Milk  Scones.  See  Bread. 

Toast. 


Milk,  Sour.  See  Bonny  Clabber. 


Mince-pies  and  Mince-meat. 

See  Pies. 


Minced  Mutton. 
Minced  Veal. 
Mint  Sauce. 
Miser’s  Sauce. 
Mixed  Catsup. 


See  Mutton. 

See  Veal. 
See  Sauces. 
See  Sauces. 
See  Pickles. 


Mixed  Fruit  Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 

Mixed  Pickles.  See  Pickles. 

Mixed  Preserves.  See  Preserves. 


Meringues. 


See  Cakes.  Mixed  Salad. 


See  Salads. 


Meringue  Sauce.  See  Puddings. 

Merveille  Salad.  See  Salads. 

Milk.  — Absolutely  clean  bottles 
are  necessary  to  sterilize  milk.  Soak 
them  in  soda  and  hot  water  and  scald 
with  boiling  water  just  before  using. 
The  fresher  the  milk  the  better.  Put 
the  milk  in  the  bottles  and  cork  them 


Mixing. — Liquids  and  dry  materi- 
als should  be  mixed  separately.  When 
mixing  a liquid  with  a solid  or  dry 
material  the  liquid  is  to  be  added 
very  slowly  and  stirred  constantly 
to  avoid  lumps. 

Mock  Crab  Bisque.  See  Soups. 

Mock  Turtle  Soup.  See  Soups. 


223 


Molasses 


MUSHROOMS  Mutton  and  Lamb 


Molasses. — The  following  recipes 
calling  for  molasses  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  heads  as  in- 
dicated : 

Molasses  Candy.  See  Candy. 

..  Fruit  Cake.  See  Cakes. 
Layer  Tarts.  See  Pies. 
Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

Mousseline  Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 

Mousses.  See  Ices. 

Muffins.  See  Bread. 

Mullet  a la  Maitre  d’Hotel. 

See  Fish. 

Mulligatawny  with  Chicken. 

See  Soups. 
..  with  Veal. 

..  with  Vegetables. 

See  Soups. 

Mush,  Indian-meal.  See  Porridge. 
..  Wheat. 

Mushrooms. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  mushrooms  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Mushrooms  k la  Bordelaise. 

See  Vegetables. 
..  k la  Cassetout. 

..  k la  Creole. 

Devilled. 

..  for  Garnish. 

Fricassee. 

..  Grilled. 

..  Ragout. 

..  Scalloped. 

..  Stew. 

..  Toast 

..  Omelet.  See  Vegetables ; 

also  Eggs. 


Mushrooms  Force-meat  of. 

See  Force-meats. 

Stuffing  for  Turkey. 

See  Force-meats. 

Catsup.  See  Pickles. 
..  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Muskmelon  Pickles.  See  Pickles 

Mussels  a la  Mariniere.  See  Fish. 
..  au  Gratin. 

Mustard,  Indian.  — To  a mixture 
of  mustard  and  flour  in  equal  quan- 
tities, rubbed  to  a smooth,  stiff  paste 
with  boiling  water,  add  a little  salt, 
and  reduce  the  thickness  as  follows  : 
Boil  down  four  shallots,  shred  finely, 
with  a wineglassful  each  of  vinegar 
and  mushroom  catsup,  and  half  a 
glassful  of  anchovy  sauce.  In  ten 
minutes  pour  these  ingredients,  boil- 
ing hot,  into  the  basin  over  the  mus- 
tard-and-flour  mixture,  stirring  until 
it  is  smooth  and  of  the  proper  con- 
sistency. Put  a shallot,  bruised,  into 
each  bottle  when  stored.  Indian  mus- 
tard wrill  keep  for  some  time  and  is 
excellent  as  a breakfast  relish.  Time, 
ten  minutes  to  boil.  Sufficient  for  x/\ 
lb.  of  mustard. 

Mustard  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Mustard,  Tartar.' — Moisten,  with 
equal  quantities  of  horseradish  and 
chilli  vinegar,  x/\  lb.  of  the  best  mus- 
tard to  which  a teaspoonful  of  salt 
has  been  mixed.  Add  the  liquids 
gradually,  and  rub  with  the  back 
of  a spoon  until  smooth.  Less  chilli 
vinegar,  and  a little  tarragon,  if  ap- 
proved, will  make  an  excellent  mus- 
tard ; or  more  horseradish  vinegar 
may  be  used,  while  the  other  vinegar 
is  diminished  in  quantity.  Sufficient, 
a quarter  of  a pint  of  vinegar. 


MUTTON  AND  LAMB 


The  recipes  for  lamb,  sheep,  kid- 
neys, etc.,  will  be  found  at  the  end  of 
the  mutton  recipes. 

The  best  mutton  is  that  of  sheep 


from  four  to  five  years  old.  It  is 
all  the  better  if  kept  for  a few  days 
before  it  is  used.  Like  all  young 
animals,  lamb  ought  to  be  thoroughly 


224 


Mutton,  Boiled 


MUTTON 


Mutton  Cutlets 


cooked,  or  it  is  most  unwholesome. 
The  joint  should  not  be  taken  from 
the  fire  until  the  gravy  drops  from 
it.  Lamb  is  usually  cut  into  quar- 
ters, and  of  these  the  fore-quarter, 
which  consists  of  the  shoulder,  the 
breast,  and  the  neck,  is  considered 
the  best.  It  is  generally  roasted, 
though  the  leg,  which  is  frequently 
served  by  itself,  makes  a useful  and 
excellent  joint  when  boiled.  The 
shoulder  is  usually  boned,  stuffed, 
and  roasted ; the  neck  stewed.  The 
fat  of  lamb  should  be  firm  and  light, 
the  lean  a clear,  faintish  white,  and 
also  firm.  If  the  fat  be  yellow  and  the 
lean  flabby  and  red,  the  lamb  is  of  in- 
ferior quality.  As  the  fat  gives  the 
strong  taste  to  mutton,  it  should  be 
trimmed  off.  In  baking  the  joint,  it 
should  be  set  on  a rack  in  the  pan  to 
avoid  cooking  it  in  the  fat. 

Mutton,  Boiled  and  Baked. — Select 
a.  plump,  compact  leg  of  mutton,  take 
out  the  bone,  and  fill  the  cavity  with 
a dressing  made  of  bread-crumbs,  a 
very  little  thyme,  salt,  pepper,  and  bits 
of  butter,  moisten  with  oyster  - juice, 
and  add  about  half  a pint  of  oysters  to 
the  quantity  of  dressing  required  for 
one  leg  of  mutton.  Sew  it  up  and 
place  in  boiling  water,  having  it  com- 
pletely immersed ; boil  slowly  half  an 
hour ; then  place  in  a dripping-pan, 
pouring  over  the  meat  a little  of  the 
liquor,  basting  frequently  with  it  while 
baking. 

Mutton,  Boiled  and  Broiled. — Half 
roast  or  stew  or  parboil  a joint  of  6 
lbs.,  then  cut  it  once  or  twice  on  both 
sides  to  the  bone,  season  the  cuts  and 
outside  with  cayenne,  and  finish 
dressing  on  a gridiron  over  a brisk 
fire,  take  the  gravy,  not  the  fat,  add 
to  it  some  pickled  mushrooms,  ldrge 
and  small,  and  strew  over,  and  garnish 
the  broil  when  served.  Time  to  par- 
boil, one  hour  ; to  grill,  twenty  minutes. 

Mutton  Broth.  See  Soups. 

Mutton  Chops  with  Espagnol 
Sauce.  — Make  a dressing  of  six 

x5 


chopped  mushrooms,  one  small  onion, 
minced,  a teaspoonful  of  minced 
parsley  with  salt  and  pepper;  cook 
all  together  in  butter,  and  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  Spanish  sauce.  Trim 
and  flatten  the  chops,  broil  over  live 
coals  for  three  or  four  minutes,  put 
them  in  a baking-pan,  cover  with 
the  dressing,  and  set  in  the  oven 
eight  or  ten  minutes.  The  chops 
should  be  thoroughly  done.  Take 
up  on  a heated  dish,  and  serve  with 
Spanish  (Espagnol)  sauce. 

Mutton,  Curried.  — Put  4 ozs.  of 
butter  into  a stewpan,  and  pound 
six  middle-sized  onions  in  a mortar ; 
add  the  onions  to  the  butter  with  I oz. 
of  curry  powder,  a teaspoonful  of  salt, 
a dessert-spoonful  of  flour,  and  half 
a pint  of  cream.  Stir  until  smooth. 
Fry  2 lbs.  of  mutton,  cut  in  neat 
pieces,  without  bone.  Let  them  be 
of  a light  - brown  color.  Lay  the 
meat  into  a clean  stewpan,  and  pour 
the  curry  mixture  over.  Simmer 
until  the  meat  is  done.  Time,  two 
hours  to  simmer. 

Mutton  Cutlets  a la  France. — Take 
a dozen  cutlets ; put  in  a sauce- 
pan; cover  with  white  stock;  add  a 
sprig  each  of  thyme  and  parsley ; set 
on  the  fire  to  simmer  gently  until 
the  meat  is  tender.  Take  up ; strain 
the  gravy ; return  to  the  saucepan ; 
add  two  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  six 
drops  of  onion-juice,  a teaspoonful  of 
minced  parsley,  a table-spoonful  of 
mushroom  catsup,  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Set  on  the  fire,  and  cook 
until  thick.  Take  up ; let  cool ; dip 
each  cutlet  in  the  sauce ; lay  in  a 
baking  dish  or  pan ; cover  with  grated 
bread-crumbs  and  bits  of  butter.  Set 
in  the  oven  to  bake  brown.  Serve 
with  brown  sauce. 

Mutton  Cutlets  en  Papillote. — Cut 

your  mutton  into  slices  half  an  inch 
thick,  and  put  each  slice  into  a well- 
buttered  and  frilled  strip  of  white 
paper.  The  dipping  in  melted  but- 
ter prevents  their  burning.  Roll  in 
grated  bread-crumbs,  and  season  with 


225 


Mutton  Fillets 


MUTTON 


Mutton,  Leg  of 


pepper  and  salt-  Roll  the  cutlets 
up  in  the  paper  to  preserve  the  gra- 
vy, broil  them  on  the  gridiron,  and 
serve  them  up  in  the  paper,  with 
mushroom  sauce  and,  as  a vegetable, 
green  pease. 

Another  way  : — Cut  some  mutton 
cutlets  round,  and  not  too  thick ; 
dip  them  into  egg  and  bread-crumbs, 
then  into  chopped  mushrooms,  then 
into  the  egg  and  crumbs  again ; and 
fry  in  butter  a light  brown.  When 
sent  to  table,  pour  over  them  a little 
good  gravy  of  either  beef  or  veal. 

Mutton  Fillets  Mignons.  — Cut 

three  slices  from  the  middle  of  a 
large-sized  leg  of  mutton,  each  slice 
about  three  - quarters  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  remove  the  fat  and  skin. 
Cut  from  each  slice  two  round  fillets. 
Rub  both  sides  with  half  a salt-spoon- 
ful of  salt,  quarter  of  a one  of  pepper. 
Put  in  a skillet  one  heaping  table- 
spoonful of  butter ; when  melted  and 
hot,  place  the  fillets  in  it.  Cook  four 
minutes  on  each  side.  Do  not  prick 
the  fillets  while  turning  or  removing 
them,  as  the  juice  would  run  out. 
They  must  be  served  as  soon  as 
cooked  in  order  to  be  perfectly  juicy. 

Mutton,  Fillets  of. — Procure  two 
fillets  from  a loin  of  mutton,  pare  off 
all  the  sinewy  skin  which  lies  be- 
neath the  fat,  and  cut  them  in  two 
when  they  are  trimmed.  Roll  them 
in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  but- 
ter, which  has  been  seasoned  with 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  black  pepper.  Roll  them 
afterwards  in  plenty  of  bread-crumbs. 
Broil  them  for  five  minutes,  but  not 
fast,  and  on  each  side.  Melt  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  good  butter;  add 
to  it  one  table-spoonful  of  parslejr, 
chopped  fine,  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
lemon -juice.  Pour  over  the  fillets, 
and  serve  very  hoi. 

Mutton  or  Lamb  Pot -pie. — Cut 

3 lbs.  of  lean  mutton  into  small 
squares.  If  there  are  any  bits  of  fat 
and  gristle,  remove  these.  Put  the 
meat  over  the  fire  in  a saucepan, 


with  enough  cold  water  to  cover  it. 
Bring  very  slowly  to  the  boil  and 
simmer  gently  for  an  hour.  Now 
add  a cupful  of  salt  pork  cut  into 
tiny  dice,  and  stew  for  a half-hour 
longer.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
kitchen  bouquet  to  taste.  Make  a 
biscuit  dough  of  a pint  of  flour  sifted 
twice  with  a half-teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  a teaspoonful  of  baking-powder. 
Wet  with  enough  milk  to  make  a 
soft  dough,  and  roll  this  out  quickly 
and  lightly.  Cut  this  dough  into 
strips  one  inch  wide  and  two  inches 
long,  and  drop  into  the  boiling  stew. 
Cover  the  saucepan  closely  and  cook 
for  ten  minutes  after  the  dough- 
dumplings  are  added.  Remove  from 
the  fire,  turn  into  a deep  platter; 
serve  at  once. 

Mutton,  Leg  of,  Boiled. — For  boil- 
ing, this  joint  should  not  hang  so  long 
as  for  roasting.  Two  or  three  days 
will  be  enough  if  the  color  is  consid- 
ered of  importance.  This  and  careful 
skimming  will  prevent  the  necessity 
for  a floured  cloth,  which  some  inex- 
perienced cooks  resort  to.  Cut  off  the 
shank-bone,  and  if  necessary  wipe  the 
joint  with  a damp  cloth.  Put  it  into 
a large,  oval  stewpan  with  as  much 
boiling  water  as  will  cover  it.  When 
restored  to  its  boiling  state,  skim  the 
surface  clean,  and  draw  the  stewpan 
to  the  side  of  the  fire  to  allow  the  con- 
tents to  simmer  until  done.  Allow 
for  a leg  of  mutton  of  9 or  10  lbs. 
two  and  a half  hours  from  the  time  it 
boils.  Boil  very  young  turnips  for  a 
garnish ; these  will  take  twenty  min- 
utes, but  allow  an  hour  for  older  ones, 
which  are  to  be  mashed.  Place  the  tur- 
nips, which  should  be  of  equal  size, 
round  the  dish,  and  send  the  mashed 
ones  to  table  separately.  Melted  but- 
ter, with  capers  added,  should  accom- 
pany the  dish.  The  liquor  from  the 
boiling  may  be  converted  into  good 
soup  at  a trifling  expense.  Time, 
about  twenty  minutes  to  each  pound. 

Mutton,  Leg  of,  Boned  and 
Stuffed. — Having  removed  the  bone 
from  a small  leg  of  mutton,  fill  the 


Mutton  in  Jelly 


MUTTON 


Mutton,  Braised 


space  from  which  it  was  taken  with 
a force-meat  composed  of  the  fol- 
lowing ingredients  worked  together 
into  a firm,  smooth  paste : Shred 

finely  4 ozs.  of  suet  and  2 ozs.  of 
ham ; mix  these  with  6 ozs.  of  bread- 
crumbs, and  flavor  with  a teaspoon- 
ful of  minced  thyme,  marjoram,  and 
basil,  the  same  of  parsley,  and  a 
couple  of  shallots;  add  a little  nut- 
meg,  pepper,  and  salt.  Moisten  with 
a couple  of  eggs,  well  beaten  first. 
Keep  the  force-meat  from  falling  out 
into  the  dripping-pan  during  the 
process  of  cooking  by  sewing  up  the 
opening.  Time  for  roasting,  about 
twenty  minutes  to  the  pound. 

Or  if  a more  savory  dish  be  pre- 
ferred, pound  the  solid  parts  of  a 
couple  of  red  herrings  to  a paste. 
Season  highly  with  pepper,  and  by 
detaching  the  skin  from  the  thickest 
part  of  the  joint,  force  the  paste  under 
and  secure  well.  The  mutton  thus 
stuffed  need  not  be  boned.  Trim 
off  the  fat  from  the  mutton  before 
putting  it  to  the  fire.  Baste  with 
good  dripping.  For  sauce,  add  to 
the  gravy  of  the  meat  an  anchovy 
pounded,  and  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste ; boil  for  a few  minutes ; thicken 
with  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and  serve 
in  a tureen  with  half  the  juice  of  a 
lemon  squeezed  into  it. 

Mutton,  Leg  of,  in  Jelly. — Remove 
all  the  bones  from  a medium-sized  leg 
of  mutton,  about  6 lbs.  in  weight. 
Cut  in  narrow  strips  one  inch  long 
I x/z  lbs.  of  lean,  raw  ham  ; pare  off  the 
fat,  chop  it,  and  keep  it  for  further 
use.  With  a pointed  knife  make  some 
small  incisions  in  regular  rows  all 
around  the  mutton,  and  put  in  each 
hole  a strip  of  the  ham.  Rub  the  meat 
all  over  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  salt  - spoonful  of  black  pepper, 
and  tie  it  in  an  oblong  shape.  Put 
a brasier  over  a moderate  fire.  Put 
in  it  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  the 
chopped  fat  from  the  ham,  two  medi- 
um-sized onions,  two  carrots,  sliced, 
three  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  small  bay- 
leaf,  two  cloves ; then  add  the  mutton, 
with  1 Yz  lbs.  of  veal  knuckle.  Let 


brown  all  over  about  twelve  minutes, 
and  turn  over  the  meat  and  vegetables 
often  to  prevent  them  from  scorching. 
Then  add  all  the  bones  from  the  leg, 
cook  five  minutes  more;  turn  again, 
then  pour  over  one  quart  of  warm  beef 
broth.  Butter  slightly  a round  piece 
of  paper  a trifle  larger  than  the  sauce- 
pan, put  it  over,  and  the  cover  over  it. 
Cook  very  slowly  for  three  hours. 
Remove  the  leg  in  a warm,  oblong 
platter,  cut  the  strings  off,  keep  warm 
in  open  oven  while  finishing  the  gravy. 
Strain  the  gravy  in  a clean  saucepan, 
and  add  one  pint  of  queen  olives  pre- 
pared as  follows  : With  a small,  pointed 
knife  peel  them  as  you  would  a pear. 
The  stones  will  come  out  easily  and 
the  olives  will  retain  their  shape.  Put 
them  in  a bowl  of  fresh  water,  drain 
them  carefully  over  a clean  napkin. 
Do  not  cook  them  in  the  gravy  more 
than  two  minutes.  Serve  them 
around  the  mutton  with  gravy  over 
everything.  Serve  very  hot. 

This  dish  is  delicious  cold,  served 
as  follows  : Have  a deep  dish  about 
the  size  of  the  leg  of  mutton.  Aft^r 
the  gravy  has  been  strained  pour 
about  a quarter  of  it  in  the  deep  dish. 
Place  it  on  ice  until  it  becomes  stiff. 
Put  the  meat  in  the  platter  over  the 
jelly,  top  side  down,  arrange  the  olives 
nicely  around  the  meat.  Melt  the  re- 
maining gravy,  and  when  cooled  off 
pour  it  over  the  meat.  Put  in  the  ice- 
box ; serve  the  next  day.  When  ready 
to  serve,  wet  a towel  in  hot  water,  put 
it  around  the  dish  for  half  a minute, 
and  unmould  it  in  a cold  platter. 
Garnish  with  some  very  small  toma- 
toes filled  up  with  white  celery,  coarse- 
ly chopped,  English  walnuts,  and  may- 
onnaise. 

Mutton,  Leg  of,  Braised.  — This 
is  known  under  a variety  of  names ; 
generally  so  called  after  the  sauce 
or  garnish.  Cut  off  the  knuckle 
end,  and  trim  away  unnecessary  fat. 
Lard  it  with  narrow  strips  of  bacon 
which  have  been  well  seasoned  with 
pepper.  Line  a braising-pan  with 
slices  of  bacon,  and  lay  in  the  mutton, 
with  more  slices  on  the  top.  Add 


Mutton,  Roast 


MUTTON 


Mutton,  Ragout  of 


four  carrots,  two  turnips,  two  middle- 
sized  onions,  each  stuck  with  two 
cloves,  a stick  of  celery,  two  blades 
of  mace,  and  a few  peppercorns, 
with  enough  weak  stock  to  cover. 
Stew  gently  for  three  hours,  then 
reduce  the  stock  by  rapid  boiling, 
and  brown  the  meat  in  the  oven, 
using  a little  of  the  stock  with  what 
flows  from  the  meat  to  baste,  and 
when  glazed  to  a light  color  serve 
with  the  sauce  poured  over  it.  See 
Sauces. 

Another  way  : — Small  lean  mutton 
is  particularly  adapted  to  this  mode 
of  cooking.  It  may  be  larded  and 
braised,  or  done  without  the  larding. 
Put  it  into  a braising-pan  with  slices 
of  bacon  over  and  under,  so  that  the 
bottom  of  the  pan  shall  be  well  lined. 
Between  the  mutton  and  bacon  strew 
cut  carrots,  onions,  sweet  herbs, 
parsley,  and  a bay-leaf,  also  a bit  of 
garlic,  if  liked,  and  pepper  and  salt. 
Moisten  with  half  a pint  or  more  of 
good  meat  gravy  or  broth,  and  allow 
a leg  of  6 or  7 lbs.  to  stew  nearly 
four  hours.  If  stewed  very  gently 
the  liquor  will  not  have  lost  much 
in  quantity.  When  the  meat  is  done 
enough,  strain,  reduce  the  gravy 
by  quick  boiling,  and  serve  in  a 
tureen.  Glaze  the  mutton,  and  send 
it  to  table  garnished  with  onions,  or 
white  beans  boiled  in  good  veal  broth. 
A dozen  peppercorns  and  four  cloves, 
with  a stick  of  celery,  may  be  added 
to  the  braising-pan  if  a higher  flavor 
is  liked. 

Mutton,  Leg  of,  Roast. — Rub  it 

lightly  with  salt,  and  put  it  at  once  in 
a very  hot  oven  for  the  first  five  min- 
utes, then  shut  off  the  draught,  and  let 
it  roast  more  slowly  in  a moderate  oven 
until  done.  Baste  continually  with 
a little  good  dripping  until  that  from 
the  joint  begins  to  flow.  When  with- 
in twenty  minutes  of  being  done, 
dredge  it  with  flour,  and  baste  with 
butter  or  dripping,  and  when  the  froth 
rises  serve  on  a hot  dish.  Add  a little 
extract  of  meat  to  the  gravy  in  the 
pan,  and  a little  boiling  water,  and 
pepper  and  salt.  Pour  the  gravy 


round  the  meat,  not  over  it.  Time, 
fifteen  minutes  per  pound,  and  fifteen 
minutes  over. 

Mutton,  Minced  (with  poached 
eggs). — Chop  cold  boiled  or  roast  mut- 
ton quite  fine.  Put  two  cupfuls  of  this 
into  the  frying-pan  with  half  an  onion, 
minced,  and  half  a cupful  of  good 
gravy.  If  you  have  none,  use  instead 
a little  hot  water  and  a lump  of  butter 
the  size  of  an  egg.  Just  before  taking 
the  mince  from  the  fire,  stir  into  it  a 
table-spoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce 
or  two  table-spoonfuls  of  tomato  cat- 
sup. Heap  the  mince  on  small  squares 
of  buttered  toast  laid  on  a hot  platter, 
and  place  a poached  egg  on  top  of 
each  mound.  Serve  very  hot. 

Mutton  Patties. — Line  some  tartlet- 
moulds  with  a good  paste.  Take  an 
equal  weight  of  lean  mutton  from  the 
fillet  and  fat  bacon,  which  pound  to- 
gether. Season  to  taste  with  salt,  a 
very  small  quantity  of  spice,  and  cay- 
enne pepper.  Place  a round  ball  of 
the  meat  into  each  patty-pan,  cover 
with  paste,  and  make  a small  hole  in 
the  centre.  Bake  in  a quick  oven, 
and  pour  into  each  patty  through  a 
funnel  a little  well  - seasoned  gravy, 
or  glaze  before  the  patties  get  cold. 
Time,  about  twenty  minutes. 

Mutton,  Potted.  — Cut  into  thin 
slices,  and  then  pound  together  in  a 
mortar  8 ozs.  of  well-dressed  roast 
mutton,  freed  from  fat  and  sinew, 
and  half  that  quantity  of  boiled 
tongue ; then  mix  with  the  pounded 
meat  3 ozs.  of  good,  fresh  butter,  and 
add,  while  pounding,  a salt-spoonful 
each  of  made  mustard  and  white 
pepper,  with  a quarter  of  a grain  of 
cayenne,  and  salt,  if  required.  Store 
in  a cool  place  and  in  an  earthen- 
ware jar,  or  in  several  small  ones, 
over  which  should  be  run  some  clari- 
fied butter. 

Mutton,  Ragout  of,  French.  — 

Place  3 ozs.  of  butter  in  a stewpan ; 
as  it  melts,  stir  in  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour;  continue  to  stir  until  it  is 

228 


Mutton,  Saddle  of 


MUTTON 


Mutton,  Shoulder  of 


nicely  browned,  then  put  in  the 
mutton,  cut  into  square  pieces,  and 
sufficient  water  to  nearly  cover  the 
mutton;  flavor  with  a few  sprigs  of 
parsley,  which  must  afterwards  be 
removed.  Add  two  lumps  of  sugar, 
and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  When 
it  has  once  boiled,  remove  to  the 
side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer  for 
an  hour.  Fry  to  a nice  brown  three 
good-sized  turnips  previously  cut 
into  dice ; put  them  into  the  stewpan 
with  the  meat,  and  simmer  for  a 
couple  of  minutes.  Arrange  the 
ragout  upon  the  dish,  placing  the 
turnips  in  the  centre  and  the  pieces 
of  meat  round  the  edge.  Pour  the 
sauce  over  the  whole,  and  serve  very 
hot. 

Mutton,  Saddle  of. — Remove  from 
a saddle  of  mutton  all  uneatable 
portions,  and  loosen  the  skin.  Roast 
for  one  hour  before  a clear  fire,  turn- 
ing it  often.  Remove  the  skin,  sprin- 
kle on  flour  and  salt,  and  roast  again 
half  an  hour,  basting  often.  Thicken 
the  gravy  in  the  dripping-pan,  and 
pour  it  over  the  mutton  when  done. 
Serve  upon  a very  hot  dish. 

Mutton  Sausages.  — A delicate 
sausage  is  made  from  the  remains 
of  an  underdone  leg  of  roast  mutton, 
or  any  other  joint  from  which  slices 
can  be  got  without  fat.  Chop  I lb. 
of  lean,  underdone  mutton  and  6 ozs. 
of  beef  suet  separately ; then  mix 
them  with  4 ozs.  of  finely  prepared 
bread-crumbs,  and  put  them  into  a 
bowl  with  a pint  of  oysters  and  two 
anchovies,  also  minced,  a seasoning 
of  thyme,  marjoram,  and  powdered 
mace,  and  some  pepper  and  salt. 
Moisten  with  two  beaten  eggs,  and 
a little  of  the  anchovy  liquor,  if  re- 
quired. Make  into  a firm  paste,  and 
roll  into  sausages  or  make  into  balls. 
The  meat  will  keep  for  a few  days. 
Time  to  fry,  seven  or  eight  minutes. 

Mutton  Stew. — Cut  the  cold  mutton 
into  thin  slices,  taking  care  to  re- 
move the  gristle,  skin,  or  sinew  that 
may  adhere.  The  pieces  taken  off 


can  be  put  by  to  make  gravy  or  broth . 
Put  into  a stewpan  the  pieces  wanted 
for  a stew;  pour  over  them  a little 
gravy  that  has  been  boiled  with  a 
very  little  thyme  and  a few  pepper- 
corns ; add  a few  drops  of  essence 
of  celery,  or  three  or  four  celery 
heads  can  be  boiled  with  the  thyme 
in  the  gravy ; let  the  meat  warm 
slowly  after  adding  the  hot  gravy. 
Just  before  sending  the  stew  to  table 
take  out  the  meat,  dredge  a little 
flour  into  the  liquor,  let  it  simmer 
a few  minutes,  put  back  the  meat, 
and  allow  it  to  heat  up  well. 

Another  way : — Cut  six  or  seven 
slices  from  a cold  leg  of  mutton, 
remove  the  skin  and  fat,  cut  into 
small  pieces,  and  put  in  a stewpan; 
sprinkle  flour  over  the  whole,  then 
prepare  the  sauce  in  a soup  - plate 
thus  : Cut  a leek  very  small,  add  a 

dessert-spoonful  of  red-currant  jelly, 
and  pickled  onion  or  gherkin ; mix  it 
up  with  a fork  with  the  leek.  Take 
a little  chutney,  four  teaspoonfuls  of 
Worcestershire  sauce,  two  of  catsup, 
one  of  essence  of  anchovy,  and  four 
table  - spoonfuls  of  stewed  tomatoes, 
add  a very  little  water,  and  pour  all 
over  the  meat.  Let  it  simmer  ten 
minutes,  then  serve  in  a hot  dish. 

Mutton,  Stuffed  Shoulder  of.  — 

Have  the  bones  removed  from  a 
shoulder  of  mutton,  leaving  only  a 
short  piece  to  make  a handle.  Sprin- 
kle inside  and  all  over  half  a table- 
spoonful of  salt  and  one  salt-spoon- 
ful of  pepper.  Boil,  for  twenty 
minutes  only,  one  quart  of  potatoes 
in  their  jackets,  and  put  them  for 
ten  minutes  in  the  oven  to  dry  them 
well.  Chop  fine  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  onions ; put  half  a table-spoonful 
of  butter  in  a small  saucepan,  and 
cook  the  onions  in  it  four  minutes. 
Peel  the  potatoes,  chop  them  fine, 
add  the  onions  and  1 lb.  of  sausage 
meat  seasoned  with  half  a table- 
spoonful of  salt  and  one  salt-spoonful 
of  black  pepper.  Mix  everything 
well ; fill  up  the  inside  of  the  shoulder 
very  full.  Stitch  it,  place  it  in  a 
roasting- pan  with  one  gill  of  broth, 


229 


Braised  Lamb 


MUTTON 


Lamb  Cutlets 


roast  it  for  an  hour,  then  add  the 
remaining  stuffing  in  the  roast-pan 
all  around  the  meat.  Cook  forty-five 
minutes  longer.  After  the  first  thirty 
minutes,  baste  every  fifteen  minutes. 
Serve  the  stuffing  around  it. 

Braised  Lamb. — Wipe  a hind-quar- 
ter with  a damp  towel ; slice  one  carrot, 
one  onion,  and  one  turnip  in  the 
bottom  of  a braising-pan ; add  a 
stalk  of  celery,  a bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  a sprig  of  parsley,  and  six 
whole  cloves.  Lay  the  lamb  quarter 
on  top  of  the  vegetables,  pour  over  a 
pint  of  stock,  and  dredge  with  salt. 
Put  on  the  lid  of  the  pan,  set  in  a hot 
oven,  and  let  cook  ten  minutes  to 
every  pound  of  meat.  When  done, 
take  up  on  a heated  dish ; strain  the 
gravy,  and  season  it  with  a table- 
spoonful each  of  Worcestershire  sauce 
and  mushroom  catsup.  Pour  around 
the  dish,  and  serve  with  currant  jelly. 

Breast  of  Lamb,  Broiled. — Put  two 

breasts  of  lamb,  weighing  about  I 
lbs.  each,  in  a soup -kettle  together 
with  three  quarts  of  cold  water.  Put 
on  the  fire  and  watch  for  the  boiling- 
point,  to  skim  well.  Season  afterwards 
with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  black  pepper,  one  large, 
red  onion  with  two  cloves  stuck  in  it, 
two  medium -sized  carrots,  one  white 
turnip,  a bouquet  of  two  leeks,  three 
sprigs  of  parsley,  one  white  branch  of 
celery,  one  small  bay-leaf.  Cook  for 
two  hours.  Lift  the  meat  from  the 
kettle,  take  the  bones  out,  and  trim 
the  meat  neatly  all  around.  Sprinkle 
on  both  sides  half  a teaspoonful  of 
salt,  half  a salt -spoonful  of  pepper. 
Melt  in  a cup  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  rub  the  breasts  over  with  the 
butter,  and  afterwards  sprinkle  all 
over  with  fine,  white  bread  - crumbs  ; 
place  over  the  broiler  and  broil  for 
eight  minutes  on  each  side.  Serve  on 
a hot  platter.  A good  soup  could  be 
served  from  the  broth  of  the  lamb. 
Cut  all  the  vegetables  in  small  pieces  ; 
add  one  pint  of  raw  potatoes,  also 
cut  small,  and  cook  thirty  minutes 
longer. 


Chicory  Puree  for  Breast  of  Lamb. 
— Remove  the  coarse  leaves  and 
stems  of  six  heads  of  chicory;  cut 
the  centre  of  it ; reserve  the  heart 
part  and  put  it  in  cold  water,  to  use  it 
as  a salad  with  French  dressing. 
Wash  well  the  other  parts  and  put 
them  in  a large  kettle  with  plenty 
of  salted  boiling  water,  and  cook 
twenty  minutes.  Drain  in  a colander, 
then  plunge  in  cold  water  to  cool 
thoroughly.  This  makes  all  green 
vegetables  much  sweeter.  Drain 
again  — squeeze  all  the  water  off. 
Put  in  a clean  saucepan  half  a table- 
spoonful of  butter,  half  a table-spoon- 
ful of  flour ; cook  for  three  minutes 
while  stirring;  do  not  brown.  Add 
the  chicory,  and  mix  well.  Pour 
slowly  over  this  half  a pint  of  the 
broth  of  the  lamb  and  half  a salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper ; cook  slowly 
for  ten  minutes,  remove  from  the 
fire ; beat  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs 
with  three  table  - spoonfuls  of  raw 
cream  and  half  a table  - spoonful  of 
butter;  add  to  the  chicory  and  mix 
again. 

Breast  of  Lamb,  Collared. — Bone 
the  lamb,  rub  it  over  with  the  yolk 
of  an  egg,  grate  over  it  a little  lemon- 
peel,  nutmeg,  pepper,  and  salt;  chop 
up  two  table-spoonfuls  of  capers,  two 
anchovies,  some  parsley,  and  a few 
sweet  herbs ; mix  with  bread-crumbs, 
and  spread  over  the  lamb ; roll  it  up, 
and  boil  two  hours ; take  it  up  and 
put  it  into  a pickle. 

Breast  of  Lamb,  Grilled.  — Score 
the  top,  brush  over  with  the  beaten 
yolk  of  an  egg,  dredge  with  salt  and 
pepper,  cover  with  a layer  of  bread- 
crumbs, and  set  in  the  oven;  baste 
every  fifteen  minutes  with  butter. 
When  done,  take  up,  garnish  with 
currant  jelly,  and  serve  with  caper 
sauce. 

Lamb  Cutlets  in  aspic  make  a novel 
dish  for  the  head  of  the  table.  Either 
braise  or  roast  the  best  end  of  a neck 
of  lamb,  and  when  cold  trim  into 
daintily  shaped  cutlets,  not  too  thick. 


230 


[See  p.  231 


LAMB  STEW  WITH  GREEN  PEASE 


[See  p.  278 


JELLIED  CHICKEN  WITH  ASPIC  JELLY 


[See  p.  225 


CHOPS  WITH  PYRAMID  OF  POTATO 


Lamb  Cutlets,  Glazed  MUTTON 


Lamb  Stew 


Have  ready  a pint  of  stiff  aspic  jelly, 
flavored,  a little  sugar,  and  some 
French  vinegar,  besides  the  ordinary 
flavoring,  and  when  it  is  strained,  but 
still  liquid,  mix  into  it  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  finely  chopped  mint. 
Pour  a thin  layer  of  this  jelly,  not  more 
than  the  tenth  of  an  inch  deep,  into 
a flat,  shallow  tin,  and  when  it  is 
thoroughly  set  place  the  cutlets  there- 
on, and  pour  more  of  the  liquid  mint 
jelly  on  them,  so  as  to  just  cover  them. 
When  it  is  set  and  stiff,  pass  a sharp 
knife  round  the  outline  of  each  cutlet, 
so  as  to  cut  it  out  from  the  surround- 
ing jelly.  Pass  a cloth  wrung  out  in 
warm  water  lightly  under  the  bottom 
of  the  tin,  and  the  cutlets  will  be  easily 
detached,  each  neatly  masked  with 
jelly  on  both  sides.  Dish  them  in  a 
wreath  round  a mayonnaise  of  green 
pease,  or  a salad  of  pease  simply 
dressed  with  oil  and  tarragon  vinegar. 
Chop  up  the  fragments  of  jelly  which 
remain  in  the  tin,  and  garnish  there- 
with the  base  of  the  cutlets.  The 
mint  may  be  omitted. 

Lamb  Cutlets,  Glazed.  — ■ Take 
thick  lamb  chops  weighing  three  to  the 
pound,  prepared  in  the  French  way 
and  with  short  handles,  and  flatten 
them  gently  with  the  kitchen  knife. 
Season  each  side  with  one  salt-spoon- 
ful of  salt  and  quarter  of  one  of 
pepper.  Put  in  a skillet  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  butter  for  six  chops. 
When  melted,  but  not  brown,  cook 
the  chops  in  it,  three  minutes  on  each 
side,  in  order  to  have  them  slightly 
rare.  Remove  to  a platter  to  cool, 
and  drain  from  the  butter.  Have 
ready  meat-juice  prepared  as  follows  : 
For  one  quart  of  juice  put  in  a sauce- 
pan, over  a moderate  fire,  one  and 
one  - half  table  - spoonfuls  of  butter, 
2 lbs.  of  veal  cutlets,  I lb.  of  rump  of 
beef.  Cook  fifteen  minutes  to  a 
golden  brown.  Pour  over  slowly  two 
and  one-half  quarts  of  warm  water. 
Add  two  calf’s  feet  split  in  halves, 
and  two  beef  and  veal  bones  of  or- 
dinary size.  Season  with  one  tea- 
spoonful of  salt  and  one  salt-spoonful 
of  pepper,  a bouquet  of  four  sprigs  of 


parsley,  one  small  bay  - leaf,  two 
cloves,  one  small  branch  of  celery, 
three  carrots  cut  in  pieces,  and  three 
onions  of  medium  size.  Let  it  boil 
fast  at  first,  but  immediately  after- 
wards moderate  the  fire  and  cook 
slowly  for  two  and  one-half  hours. 
The  saucepan  must  not  be  entirely 
covered  — a necessary  caution,  or 
the  glaze  will  not  be  clear.  Remove 
the  meat  and  vegetables  to  a platter. 
Strain  in  a bowl  through  a silk  strain- 
er or  a clean  napkin  dipped  in  cold 
water.  Cool  for  two  hours,  and  skim 
carefully,  removing  all  the  fat  from 
the  surface.  Put  a quarter  of  this 
glaze  on  a platter  and  dip  each  chop 
in  it  until  well  covered.  Remove  to 
another  platter,  taking  care  that  the 
chops  do  not  touch  each  other.  If 
one  coat  is  not  thick  enough,  dip  the 
chops  a second  time.  Keep  the 
balance  of  the  glaze  on  ice  ready  to 
serve,  then  with  a knife  break  it,  not 
too  fine  ; garnish  the  chops  all  around, 
and  put  some  in  the  centre  on  top 
of  the  bread.  This  glaze  is  very 
nourishing,  not  expensive,  and  ex- 
cellent for  invalids.  The  meat  and 
vegetables  cut  in  small  pieces  make  a 
good  salad  served  with  French  dress- 
ing and  a little  chopped  parsley  and 
new  onions. 

Lamb  Stew  with  Green  Pease. — 

Procure  two  fat  breasts  or  a shoulder 
of  lamb  weighing  about  3 lbs.,  and 
cut  in  equal  pieces  two  by  three  inches ; 
brown  the  meat  for  ten  minutes  in  a 
table-spoonful  of  butter,  then  remove 
the  meat.  Put  in  the  gravy  one  and 
one-half  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  stir- 
ring thoroughly.  Put  the  meat  back, 
mix  well,  and  pour  over  slowly  three 
pints  of  warm  water,  a half  table- 
spoonful of  salt,  two  pinches  of  pepper, 
and  a bouquet  of  three  sprigs  of  pars- 
ley, half  a branch  of  celery,  half  a 
bay-leaf,  one  very  small  sprig  of 
thyme,  and  two  cloves  stuck  in  one 
onion.  Tie  the  bouquet  so  you  can 
remove  it  before  serving.  When  the 
boiling-point  is  reached  skim  care- 
fully. Cover  the  saucepan,  cook  fif- 
teen minutes,  then  add  one  pint  of 


231 


Lamb,  Shoulder  of 


MUTTON 


Mutton  Kidneys 


freshly  shelled  pease,  one  pint  of  small 
new  potatoes,  and  half  a pint  of  small 
white  onions.  Cook  slowly  thirty 
minutes  more. 

Lamb,  Shoulder  of,  Stuffed. — Re- 
move the  bone  from  a shoulder  of  lamb, 
fill  the  space  with  bread  stuffing,  and 
sew  up.  Put  into  a large  saucepan 
over  two  or  three  thin  slices  of  fat  pork, 
a small  onion,  and  a bunch  of  sweet 
herbs.  Dredge  the  meat  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  pour  over  a quart  of 
stock.  Set  over  the  fire  to  stew  gently 
for  two  hours.  When  done,  take  from 
the  saucepan,  set  to  keep  warm,  boil 
the  gravy  down  very  low,  and  strain 
over  the  meat.  Serve  with  green 
pease. 

Mutton  Kidneys  en  Brochette.  — 

Take  six  lamb  kidneys,  cut  through 
the  centre  and  remove  the  white  veins 
and  fat ; wash  well  in  cold  water,  and 
drop  in  boiling  water  ; let  stand  for  five 
minutes,  drain,  and  wipe  dry.  Cut 
very  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon  the  size 
of  the  pieces  of  kidney ; place  one  piece 
of  kidney  on  a skewer,  then  a piece  of 
bacon,  then  kidney  and  bacon  on  each 
skewer  until  all  are  ready ; lay  them  on 
a broiler,  set  over  a clear  fire,  baste 
with  butter,  broil,  and  turn  for  five 
minutes;  dust  lightly  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  serve  on  the  skewers. 
The  bacon  may  be  omitted.  One  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  chopped  parsley  mixed 
with  one  table-spoonful  of  butter  and 
half  a teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice  can 
be  made  up  in  little  balls,  serving  one 
of  them  with  each  kidney. 

Mutton  Kidneys  a la  Francaise, 
Stewed. — Remove  the  skins  from  half 
a dozen  fine  mutton  kidneys,  and  cut 
them  lengthwise  into  slices  a quarter 
of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Season  each 
piece  rather  highly  with  salt  and  cay- 
enne, and  dip  it  into  some  finely  pow- 
dered sweet  herbs — namely,  parsley 
and  thyme,  two-thirds  of  the  former 
and  one  of  the  latter;  three  or  four 
finely  minced  shallots  may  be  added, 
if  liked.  Melt  a good-sized  piece  of 
butter  in  the  frying-pan  and  put  in  the 


kidneys.  Let  them  brown  on  both 
sides.  When  nearly  cooked,  dredge 
a little  flour  quickly  over  them,  add  a 
quarter  of  a pint  of  boiling  stock  or 
water,  a table-spoonful  of  mushroom 
catsup,  and  the  strained  juice  of  half 
a lemon.  When  the  gravy  is  just 
upon  the  point  of  boiling,  lift  out  the 
kidneys,  put  them  on  a hot  dish,  add 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  either  port  or 
claret  to  the  sauce,  let  it  boil  for  one 
minute,  then  pour  it  over  the  meat. 
Garnish  with  fried  sippets.  Time, 
six  minutes  to  fry  the  kidneys. 

Mutton  Kidneys  a la  Maitre  d’Ho- 
tel. — Broil  three  or  four  kidneys,  lay 
them  with  the  rounded  side  down- 
ward, and  put  about  I oz.  of  maitre 
d’hbtel  butter,  prepared  as  follows, 
upon  each  one  : Put  4 ozs.  of  fresh  but- 
ter into  an  enamelled  saucepan,  add  a 
little  salt  and  cayenne,  a table-spoon- 
ful of  finely  mincpd  parsley,  and  a des- 
sert-spoonful of  strained  lemon-juice; 
work  these  ingredients  well  together 
with  the  point  of  a knife,  in  a cool 
place.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  di- 
vide the  butter  into  equal  parts,  put  a 
piece  upon  each  kidney,  and  serve. 
Time,  about  six  minutes  to  bfoil  the 
kidneys. 

Mutton  Kidneys  a la  Tartare. — 

Broil  five  or  six  kidneys.  Put  them 
on  a hot  dish,  and  serve  the  following 
sauce  with  them,  which  should  be  pre- 
pared before  the  kidneys  are  put  on  to 
broil : Beat  the  yolk  of  an  egg  for  two 
or  three  minutes.  Add  very  gradu- 
ally, in  drops  at  first,  six  teaspoonfuls 
of  oil,  and  then  one  of  tarragon  vin- 
egar. Beat  the  mixture  well  between 
every  addition  or  the  oil  will  float  at 
the  top.  Repeat  until  the  sauce  is  of 
the  consistence  of  thick  cream.  Four 
table-spoonfuls  of  oil  and  one  of  vin- 
egar will  be  about  the  quantity  re- 
quired. Add  a pinch  of  salt,  a small 
pinch  of  cayenne  pepper,  a table- 
spoonful of  unmixed  French  mustard, 
five  or  six  gherkins,  three  shallots, 
finely  minced,  a teaspoonful  each  of 
chopped  parsley  and  chives,  and  half 
a teaspoonful  of  chilli  vinegar.  Put 


232 


Scotch  Haggis 


MUTTON 


Sheeps’  Tongues 


a teaspoonful  of  this  sauce  in  the  hol- 
low of  each  kidney,  and  send  the  rest 
to  table  in  a tureen.  Time,  six  min- 
utes to  broil  the  kidney,  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  to  prepare  the 
sauce. 

Scotch  Haggis  is  made  of  the  lights, 
liver,  and  heart  of  a sheep,  which  is 
all  called  a pluck.  They  come  at- 
tached to  the  windpipe.  Put  all  on  to 
boil,  say  for  an  hour  and  a half.  It  is 
well  to  let  the  end  of  the  windpipe  hang 
over  the  edge  of  the  pot,  so  that  any 
impurities  may  pass  out.  When  done, 
remove  from  the  fire  and  allow  the 
pluck  to  cool.  Then  cut  away  the 
windpipe,  bits  of  skin  or  gristle,  and 
all  but  about  a quarter  of  the  liver. 
Then  add  lb.  of  beef  suet,  and  chop 
the  whole  very  fine.  Now  add  two 
small  cupfuls  of  oatmeal  which  has 
been  previously  dried  in  the  oven,  pep- 
per, salt,  and  about  half  a pint  of  the 
liquor  in  which  the  pluck  was  boiled. 
Now  it  is  ready  for  the  bag,  which  is 
less  objectionable  than  the  stomach 
of  a sheep,  ordinarily  used  in  Scot- 
land. When  the  mince  is  ready  wash 
the  bag  with  cold,  clean  water,  and 
only  little  more  than  half  fill  it  with 
the  mince,  for  room  must  be  left  for 
the  meal  and  meat  to  expand  ; if  filled, 
the  bag  would  burst.  Now  sew  the 
bag  up  securely,  and  pop  it  into  a pot 
of  boiling  water.  Boil  for  three  hours  ; 
serve  hot,  without  gravy  or  garnish  of 
any  kind,  as  it  is  sufficiently  rich  of 
itself. 

Sheep’s  Liver  a la  Francaise.  — 

Cut  some  slices  of  liver  half  an  inch 
thick  and  lay  them  neatly  in  a stew- 
pan  slightly  buttered  ; sprinkle  pepper 
and  salt  over  the  upper  sides.  Slice 
2 ozs.  of  fat  bacon  as  finely  as  possible, 
chop  a teaspoonful  of  parsley  and  a 
small  shallot  very  fine,  and  spread 


them  evenly  over  the  liver ; cover  the 
stewpan  closely,  and  set  it  on  a fire 
so  moderate  that  it  will  draw  out  all 
the  juices  without  simmering  — the 
least  approach  to  this  hardens  the 
liver  and  spoils  it.  If  the  range  is 
too  hot,  set  the  stewpan  on  an  iron 
stand.  When  the  liver  has  thus 
stood  for  an  hour  and  a half  it  will  be 
done.  Take  it  up,  put  it  on  a hot 
dish,  and  cover  it  closely  while  you 
boil  the  bacon  and  the  gravy  together 
for  two  minutes ; then  pour  over  the 
liver,  and  serve  immediately. 

Sheep’s  Liver,  Fried. — Soak  the 
liver,  and  cut  it  in  slices  the  third  of 
an  inch  thick.  Dry  each  slice 
thoroughly  with  a soft  cloth,  flour  it 
well,  and  sprinkle  pepper  and  salt 
with  a little  chopped  parsley  over  it. 
Heat  a little  dripping  in  the  frying- 
pan,  put  in  the  liver,  and  fry  it  very 
gently  till  tender.  Turn  it  occasion- 
ally, that  it  may  be  equally  cooked. 
When  done  enough,  lift  it  upon  a hot 
dish,  and  pour  off  the  fat  from  the 
frying-pan.  Mix  a table-spoonful  of 
flour  smoothly  with  a little  cold 
water,  add  half  a pint  of  boiling  stock 
or  water,  and  pour  the  mixture  into 
the  pan.  Stir  briskly  till  it  boils, 
and  add  a little  browning,  a spoonful 
of  store  sauce,  and  a little  pepper  and 
salt.  Let  it  boil  a minute  or  two, 
then  strain  it  over  the  liver  in  the 
dish.  Serve  very  hot.  If  liked,  a 
large  onion  may  be  sliced  and  fried 
with  the  liver  and  laid  upon  it  in  the 
dish.  Time,  about  half  an  hour. 

Sheeps’  Tongues. — Soak  two  hours 
in  cold  water,  then  boil  until  the  hard 
outer  skin  can  be  removed.  Split  in 
halves,  lengthwise,  and  stew  until 
tender  in  boiling  water  flavored  by 
bacon,  mushrooms,  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper,  etc. 


Nannie’s  Scones. 


See  Bread. 

Napoleons.  See  Pies. 

Nasturtium  Pickles.  See  Pickles. 

Nasturtium  Seeds. — Gather  while 
still  young  and  green,  soak  them  in 
salt  water  for  a day.  Dry  them, 
put  in  bottles,  and  cover  with  cold 
vinegar  which  has  been  spiced  by 
salt,  horseradish,  cloves,  etc.  Cork 
and  store  in  a cool  place.  They 
will  be  ready  for  use  in  six  months, 
and  form  an  acceptable  substitute  for 
capers  with  boiled  mutton. 

Neapolitan  Ice-cream.  See  Ices. 

Neapolitans.  See  Cakes. 

Nesselrode  Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 

New-year’s  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

New-year  Salad  in  Apples. 

See  Salads. 

New  York  Tea  Biscuit.  See  Bread. 

Newark  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

Noodles,  Buttered.  See  Macaroni. 

Noodles,  Soup  of.  See  Soups. 

..  Timbales.  See  Macaroni. 

Nougat. — Nougat  is  a sort  of  paste 
made  of  sugar,  almonds,  pistachio 
nuts,  or  filberts.  A little  practice  is 
necessary  before  it  can  be  well  made. 
The  process  is  as  follovvs : Blanch 


i lb.  of  almonds,  dry  them  well  in  a 
soft  cloth,  cut  them  into  quarters, 
put  them  on  a baking  sheet  in  a 
cool  oven,  and  let  them  remain  until 
quite  hot  through  and  lightly  browned. 
When  they  are  nearly  readjr,  put 
Yt  lb.  of  sifted  sugar  into  a copper 
pan,  without  any  water,  and  move  it 
about  with  a wooden  spoon.  When 
it  is  melted  and  begins  to  bubble, 
stir  in  the  hot  almonds  gently,  so 
as  not  to  break  them.  Have  ready 
the  mould  which  is  to  be  used,  slightly 
but  thoroughly  oiled,  and  spread  the 
paste  all  over  it  about  a quarter  of 
an  inch  thick.  This  is  the  difficult 
part  of  the  operation,  as  the  nougat 
hardens  very  quickly.  The  pan  in 
which  it  is  prepared  should  be  kept  in 
a warm  place,  to  prevent  it  stiffening 
before  the  mould  is  finished.  It  is  a 
good  plan  to  spread  out  a piece  for 
the  bottom  of  the  mould  first,  and  put 
that  in  its  place,  then  pieces  for  the 
sides.  Care  must  be  taken,  however, 
to  make  these  pieces  stick  closely  to- 
gether. A cut  lemon  dipped  in  oil  is 
a great  assistance  in  spreading  the 
paste.  When  the  nougat  is  firmly 
set,  turn  it  out  carefully,  and  serve 
on  a stand  filled  with  whipped  cream 
or  as  required.  Time  to  boil  the  sug- 
ar, till  it  is  well  melted. 

Nouilles.  See  Noodles. 


Nuts. — The  following  recipes  call- 
ing for  nuts  will  be  found  under  their 
respective  headings : 

Nut  Bars.  See  Candy. 

..  Cream.  See  Creams. 

..  Fruit  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

..  Layer  Cake.  * 


234 


Oatmeal. — Oats  are  rich  in  flesh- 
forming and  heat-giving  qualities,  and 
serve  as  a nutritious  and  excellent  diet 
when  the  occupation  is  not  sedentary. 
The  outer  husk  of  oats,  unlike  wheat, 
is  poor  in  albumenoid  matters,  so 
that  oatmeal  is  better  than  whole  oats 
as  food.  Oatmeal  is  remarkable  for 
its  large  amount  of  fat.  In  conse- 
quence of  a peculiar  quality  of  the 
gluten  which  oats  contain,  oatmeal 
does  not  admit  of  being  baked  into  a 
light  fermented  bread.  It.  has  some- 
times been  alleged  against  oatmeal 
that  when  it  is  employed  as  the  sole 
food,  without  milk  or  animal  diet,  it 
causes  heat  and  irritability  of  the  skin, 
aggravates  skin  diseases,  and  some- 
times gives  rise  to  boils.  If  so,  it  is 
very  rarely  that  circumstances  render 
necessary  for  any  length  of  time  such 
an  exclusive  consumption  of  oatmeal. 

Oatmeal  Crisps.  See  Bread. 

Oatmeal  Gruel.  See  Gruel. 

Oatmeal  Porridge.  See  Porridge. 


Olla  Podrida.  — Put  iJ/2  lbs.  of 
beef  or  veal  into  a soup-pot,  with 
a gallon  of  cold  water,  i % lbs.  of 
dried  pease,  one  good  slice  of  raw, 
lean  ham,  and  any  scraps  of  game 
or  poultry  that  you  may  have  at 
hand.  Set  the  pot  on  the  back  of 
the  stove,  cover  it  closely,  and  let  it 
simmer  slowly  for  an  hour ; then 
skim,  and  add  salt  to  the  taste.  Re- 
turn the  pot  to  the  fire,  and,  after 
cooking  for  another  half-hour,  pour 
off  the  broth,  which  is  to  be  served 
separately  from  the  other  ingredients. 
Now  add  as  many  more  vegetables 
as  you  like,  peeled,  cut  up,  and  prop- 
erly prepared,  and,  stirring  constant- 
ly to  prevent  burning,  let  the  mass 
cook  until  every  vegetable  is  done 
through.  The  meat,  vegetables,  and 
broth  are  all  to  be  served  separately 
— that  is  to  say,  on  different  dishes — 
but  all  are  eaten  together.  The  veg- 
etables used  vary  with  the  season ; 
tomatoes  give  tone  to  the  dish  in  sum- 
mer, parsley  in  the  spring,  but  cab- 
bage is  never  admitted  at  any  sea- 
son. 


Okra  Soup.  See  Soups, 

..  and  Rice.  See  Vegetables. 

..  and  Tomatoes. 

..  Boiled. 

..  Fried. 

..  Scalloped. 

Okra-and-beef  Stew.  See  Beef. 

Olives  should  never  be  allowed  to 
remain  in  the  bottle  uncovered  with 
the  brine,  as  their  appearance  will 
be  spoiled  and  they  will  lose  flavor. 

Olive  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Olives,  Veal.  See  Veal. 


Omelet,  Souffle.  See  Souffles. 

Omelets.  See  Eggs. 

Onions. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  onions  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Onions  a la  Creme.  See  Vegetables. 
..  and  Cheese. 

..  Baked. 

..  Fried. 

Stewed. 

Stuffed. 

Omelet.  See  Omelet. 

Soup,  Brown.  See  Soups. 
Stuffing  for  Chicken. 

See  Force-meats. 


235 


Oranges 


OYSTERS 


Oyster  Crabs 


Oranges. — The  following  recipes  in 
which  oranges  are  used  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as  in- 
dicated : 

Oranges  and  Lemon  for  Colds. 

See  Fruits. 


Ox  Tongue. 


See  Beef. 


Oysters. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  oysters  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Oysters  a la  Poulette.  See  Fish. 


Compote  of. 

..  au  Gratin  in  Shells. 

Float. 

..  Baltimore. 

Fool. 

..  Broiled. 

Iced. 

Cocktail. 

in  Syrup. 

..  Creamed. 

Jellied. 

..  Croquettes.  .. 

Moulded. 

..  Crumbed. 

Paste. 

..  Curried. 

Sliced.  .. 

..  Devilled. 

Snow-balls.  .. 

..  Dry  Stew. 

Sponge. 

..  Fricassee  of.  .. 

and  Rhubarb. 

..  Fried. 

See  Preserves. 

..  Fritters. 

Marmalade. 

..  Kromeskies  of. 

Preserved  Whole. 

..  Omelet. 

Syrup. 

..  Panned. 

Cake.  See  Cakes. 

„.  Patties. 

Short  Cake. 

..  Pickled. 

Cakes.  See  Bread. 

..  Pie. 

Candied.  See  Candy. 

..  Roasted. 

Crystallized. 

..  Ramekins  of.  ». 

Peel  Candied. 

..  Salad.  .. 

Cream.  See  Creams. 

..  Sandwiches. 

Flower  Cream. 

Sausages. 

Custard.  See  Custards. 

..  Sauce. 

Trifle. 

..  Scalloped. 

Ice.  See  Ices. 

..  Spindled. 

Whips. 

..  Stewed. 

in  Jelly.  See  Jellies. 

..  Stuffed. 

Jelly. 

..  Omelet.  See  Eggs ; also 

Cream  Sauce.  See  Puddings. 

Fish. 

Sauce.  See  Puddings  ; also 

..  Force-meat  of. 

Pie. 

Salad. 

Sherbet. 

Souffle. 


Orangeade. 
Ox-tail  Soup. 


Sauces. 

See  Pies. 
See  Salads. 
See  Beverages. 
See  Souffles. 

See  Beverages. 

See  Soups. 


Fritters. 

Pickled. 

Salad.  See 
Sauce.  See 
Souffle. 
Soup. 


See  Force-meats. 
See  F ritters  ; also 
Fish. 

See  Pickles ; also 
Fish. 

Salads ; also  Fish. 
Sauces  .. 

See  Souffles. 
See  Soups. 


Ox  Tail  with  Pur£e  of  Lentils. 

See  Beef. 


Oyster  Crabs  a la  Newburg. 

See  Fish. 


p 


Pain  de  Foie. 


See  Veal.  Paste,  Cheese. 


See  Cheese. 


Panada.  — Cut  off  the  crusts  from 
slices  of  bread  and  soak  the  remainder 
in  water.  Press  out  the  water  and 
put  in  a saucepan  with  stock  or  milk 
and  stir  it  until  it  is  a firm  paste  and 
does  not  cling  to  the  sides  of  the 
pan. 

Pancakes. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  pancakes  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Pancakes,  Snow.  See  Bread, 

without  Eggs  or  Milk.  . . 

..  Soup  of.  See  Soups. 

Parfaits.  See  Ices. 

Parmesan  and  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Parsley,  Fried.  See  Vegetables. 

Parsley  Omelet.  See  Eggs. 

Parsnips.  — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  parsnips  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Parsnips,  Boiled.  See  Vegetables. 

..  Fritters.  See  Fritters. 

Partridges. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  partridges  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Partridges,  Broiled.  See  Game. 

Cutlets. 

..  Fricassee  of. 

Souffle  of. 

Stewed. 


Pasties,  Force-meats  for  Cold. 

See  Force-meats. 


Pastry. 

Pate  de  Foie  Gras. 


Patd,  Fish. 

Pate  of  Game. 
Pate  of  Macaroni. 


See  Pies. 

See  Poultry. 
Imitation 
See  Poultry. 

See  Fish. 

See  Game. 

See  Macaroni. 


Patties. — Without  rolling  the  paste, 
cut  out  as  many  disks  as  you  will 
require  patties,  using  a sharp  cutter 
two  inches  in  diameter.  Cut  a ring 
into  the  centre  of  each  an  inch  in 
diameter,  being  careful  not  to  cut 
quite  through  to  the  bottom.  Place 
them  in  a greased  pan,  like  biscuits, 
glaze,  and  bake  a delicate  brown. 
Remove  the  little  cap  made  by  the 
small  cutter,  fill  the  opening  with  the 
prepared  oyster,  sweetbread,  or  chicken 
filling,  replace  the  cap,  and  serve 
hot.  Filled  with  jelly  or  jam,  they 
are  served  cold.  Raw  oysters, boiled 
sweetbreads,  goose  liver,  or  scraps 
of  the  breast  of  chicken  or  turkey  are 
chopped  into  coarse  bits,  with  truffles 
or  mushrooms,  and  are  then  masked 
in  a white  sauce  made  by  creaming 
a dessert-spoonful  each  of  flour  and 
butter  over  the  fire ; thin  with  milk 
or  cream,  add  a pinch  of  salt,  a dash 
of  cayenne,  and,  if  liked,  a spoonful 
of  sherry  wine. 


Passover  Force-meat  Balls. 

See  Force-meats. 


Patties,  Fried.  — Prepare  some 
good  puff  paste,  and  roll  it  out  to  the 


237 


Patties,  Game 


PEACHES 


Pepper  Pot 


thickness  of  about  a quarter  of  an 
inch,  stamp  it  with  a pastry-cutter 
into  rounds  an  inch  and  three-quar- 
ters in  diameter,  place  a teaspoonful 
of  any  minced  meat  between  two 
of  these,  moisten  the  edges,  pinch 
them  securely^  and  fry  them  in 
plenty  of  fat  until  they  are  crisped 
and  lightly  browned.  They  should 
be  placed  in  a wire  drainer,  plunged 
into  the  fat  when  it  is  boiling,  and 
well  drained  from  it  before  they  are 
served. 

Patties,  Game.  See  Game. 

Patties,  Mutton.  See  Mutton. 

Peaches. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  peaches  will  be  found  un- 
der their  respective  headings  as  in- 
dicated : 


Liqueur. 

See  Beverages. 

Short  Cake. 

See  Cakes. 

Cream. 

See  Creams. 

Custard. 

See  Custards. 

in  Custard. 

Fritters. 

See  Fritters. 

Compote  of. 

See  Fruits. 

Flanc  of. 

Float. 

Jelly. 

Sugared. 

Trifle. 

Vol-au-vent  of. 

Ice-cream. 

See  Ices. 

Mousse. 

Surprise. 

Snow. 

See  Jellies. 

Brandied. 

See  Pickles. 

Mangoes. 

Spiced. 

Meringue  Pie.  See  Pies. 

Tart. 

Canned. 

See  Preserves. 

Conserves. 

## 

Jam. 

.. 

Jelly. 

Leather. 

## 

Marmalade. 

„ 

Preserved. 

Syrup. 

Cobbler. 

See  Puddings. 

Liqueur  Sauce. 
Pudding. 


Peanuts.  — The  following  recipes 
calling  for  peanuts  will  be  found  un- 
der their  respective  headings  as  indi- 
cated : 

Peanut  Candy.  See  Candy. 

..  Salad.  See  Salads. 

..  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Pears.  — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  pears  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicat- 
ed : 

Pears,  Baked.  See  Fruits. 

..  Compote  of. 

..  Charlotte. 

..  Frosted  or  Iced. 

..  in  Jelly. 

Meringue  of. 

..  Stewed. 

..  Stewed  in  Butter. 

..  with  Rice. 

Pickled.  See  Pickles. 

Spiced. 

Tart.  See  Pies. 

Canned.  See  Preserves. 

Marmalade. 

Preserves. 


Pease. — The 

cooking  pease 
their  respective 
cated  : 

Pease,  Boiled. 

..  Green. 

.o  Salad. 
Soup. 


following  recipes  for 
will  be  found  under 
headings  as  indi- 

See  Vegetables. 

See  Salads. 
See  Soups. 


Pepper  Pot  (a  hotchpotch). — Put 
four  quarts  of  boiling  water  into  a 
large  stewpan,  with  a mixture  of 
any  meats  that  may  be  preferred — 
either  3 lbs.  of  gravy  beef  and  ^ lb. 
of  lean  ham,  or  3 lbs.  of  the  neck 
of  mutton  and  ^ lb.  of  pickled  pork ; 
add  half  a cupful  of  best  rice,  a bunch 
of  savory  herbs,  two  large  onions, 
and  three  large  potatoes  coarsely 
grated.  Skim  the  liquid  carefully 
during  the  first  half-hour,  and  let  it 
simmer  gently  until  all  the  goodness 
is  drawn  out  of  the  meat.  This  will 
require  from  three  to  four  hours. 
Strain  the  soup  and  let  it  stand  until 
cold,  so  that  the  fat  may  be  entirely 
removed.  Put  the  liquid  into  the 


Peppers 


PICKLES,  ETC.  Vinegar  for  Pickle 


stewpan,  with  a large  fowl  cut  into 
joints,  and  the  meat  of  a lobster  or 
crab  finely  minced.  When  the  fowl  is 
almost  tender,  put  in  a dozen  small, 
light  suet  dumplings  and  a pint  and 
a half  of  whatever  vegetables  are 
in  season  cut  up  into  small  pieces. 
Season  with  cayenne  and  salt,  if 
required.  When  the  vegetables  are 
done  enough,  serve  the  entire  prepara- 
tion in  a tureen.  In  the  West  Indies, 
where  this  dish  is  a great  favorite, 
it  is  so  highly  seasoned  that  it  is 
universally  known  as  “ pepper  pot.” 
Time,  about  an  hour  after  the  fowl 
is  put  in.  The  probable  cost  varies 
with  the  ingredients. 

Peppers. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  peppers  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 


Peppers  and  Chicken.  See  Vegetables, 
and  Rice  Fried. 

..  Baked. 

..  Fried. 

..  Stuffed  with 

Force-meat. 

..  with  Minced  Meat. 

..  with  Rice  and 

Tomatoes. 

..  Pickled.  See  Pickles. 

..  Salad.  See  Salads. 

..  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Petits  Pains  Farcis. 

See  Sandwiches 
Friands. 

See  Sandwiches. 

Pheasant,  Grilled.  See  Game. 
Piccalilli.  See  Pickles. 


PICKLES,  CATSUPS,  ETC. 


General  Directions  for  the  Prepar- 
ing of  Pickles.  — Pickles  may  be 
made  at  any  time  during  the  winter 
or  spring,  provided  that  you  have 
cucumbers,  grapes,  or  even  peaches, 
which,  having  been  gathered  fresh 
during  their  season,  were  put  in  a 
strong  brine,  and  kept  entirely  there- 
under by  the  pressure  of  weights,  so 
as  not  to  be  exposed  to  the  air.  When 
you  take  the  vegetables  or  fruit  out 
of  brine,  soak  for  a day  or  two  in  cold 
water.  Then  put  them  over  the 
fire  in  a kettle,  covering  well  with 
weak  vinegar.  Let  them  gently 
simmer  until  parboiled,  or  rather 
tender,  but  not  soft.  Cucumbers  are 
ruined  by  long  cooking,  which  de- 
stroys their  crispness.  Let  them  re- 
main in  this  vinegar  until  you  are 
ready  to  supply  the  final  seasoning 
and  strong  cider  vinegar  needed  for 
the  preparation  of  all  kinds  of  pickles. 
The  horseradish  used  in  pickles  must 
be  scraped  and  dried ; the  garlic  must 
be  soaked  from  three  to  ten  days, 
changing  the  water  once  or  twice  a 
day ; the  mustard-seed  bruised ; spices 


are  put  in  without  any  preparation. 
When  onions  are  used,  they  need  only 
to  be  sliced  and  scalded. 

Vinegar  for  Green  or  Yellow 
Pickle. — Take  I lb.  of  grated  horse- 
radish, 2 lbs.  of  white  mustard-seed, 
I lb.  of  black  mustard-seed,  2 ozs.  each 
of  mace,  nutmegs,  cloves,  allspice, 
and  ground  white  pepper,  4 ozs. 
of  turmeric,  a large  teacupful  of 
ground  mustard,  four  table-spoonfuls 
of  celery  seed,  eight  cloves  of  garlic, 
Yz  lb.  of  ground  ginger,  and  4 lbs. 
of  brown  sugar.  These  ingredients 
are  to  be  put  into  a six-gallon  jar, 
with  four  gallons  of  vinegar.  Stir 
frequently,  and  allow  the  mixture 
to  remain  some  time  before  using. 
After  pouring  off  the  vinegar  for 
pickles,  add  more  spices,  and  fill  again 
for  future  use.  Keep  well  covered. 
This  will  keep  any  length  of  time. 

Be  careful  to  procure  good  vege- 
tables, in  perfect  condition,  not  over- 
ripe, and  the  best  cider  or  home- 
made vinegar ; to  use  an  enamelled 
saucepan  or  stone  jar  for  heating. 


239 


Cabbage,  Pickled  PICKLES,  ETC 


Cucumbers 


avoiding  metal  vessels  of  every  kind ; 
use  a wooden  spoon ; to  put  pickles 
when  made  into  small  glass  jars 
(“  small  ” because  the  quality  of  the 
pickle  deteriorates  after  the  jar  has 
once  been  opened,  and  “ glass  ” 
because  the  vinegar  acts  danger- 
ously upon  the  glazed  surface  of  the 
earthen -ware)  ; and  be  careful  to 
keep  the  pickle  always  entirely  cov- 
ered with  vinegar  and  to  store  it 
in  a dry  place,  damp  being  es- 
pecially injurious  to  all  kinds  of 
pickles. 

Cabbage,  Pickled. — Take  a peck 
of  quartered  cabbage,  put  a layer  of 
cabbage  and  one  of  salt,  let  it  remain 
overnight;  in  the  morning  squeeze 
and  put  on  the  fire,  with  four  chopped 
onions  covered  with  vinegar ; boil  for 
an  hour,  then  add  I oz.  of  turmeric, 
one  gill  of  black  pepper,  one  gill  of 
celery  seed,  a few  cloves,  one  table- 
spoonful of  allspice,  a few  pieces  of 
ginger,  oz.  of  mace,  and  2 lbs.  of 
brown  sugar.  Let  it  boil  an  hour 
longer,  and  when  cold  it  is  fit  for 
use.  Four  table-spoonfuls  of  made 
mustard  should  be  added  with  the 
other  ingredients. 

Cauliflower  Pickle.  — To  twelve 
heads  of  cauliflower  put  five  quarts  of 
vinegar,  five  cupfuls  of  brown  sugar, 
a table-spoonful  of  butter,  one  bottle 
of  French  mustard,  x/\  lb.  box  of 
common  mustard,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  ground  ginger,  a cupful  of  garlics 
or  dwarf  onions,  two  green  pepper- 
pods,  half  a teaspoonful  of  cayenne 
pepper,  and  I oz.  of  turmeric.  Mix 
together  sugar,  mustard,  ginger,  and 
turmeric,  beating  them  well.  Then 
boil  in  vinegar,  with  garlics,  peppers, 
etc.,  for  ten  minutes.  Meanwhile 
put  on  the  cauliflower  in  a separate 
pot  and  boil  it  until  tender,  which 
requires  but  a few  minutes.  Divide 
the  cauliflower  into  conveniently  sized 
sprigs,  which  must  be  carefully  placed 
in  glass  jars  and  covered  with  the 
spiced  vinegar.  Seal  up  tight  and 
keep  in  a dry  closet.  No  one  can 
have  good  pickles  who  does  not  see 


to  excluding  the  air  and,  above  all, 
dampness. 

Cherries,  Pickled. — To  every  pound 
of  cherries  allow  lb.  of  loaf  sugar, 
half  a pint  of  cider  vinegar,  oz. 
each  of  powdered  cinnamon,  mixed 
whole  cloves,  and  allspice,  and  a few 
blades  of  mace.  Put  the  cherries  in 
a jar.  Boil  the  other  ingredients 
five  minutes  in  the  vinegar,  and 
when  boiling  pour  the  liquor  over 
the  fruit.  Cover  closely.  In  a week 
they  will  be  ready  for  eating. 

Citron,  Spiced.  — The  common 
citron  is  best  for  this.  To  every 
4 lbs.  of  fruit,  weighed  after  removing 
the  rind  and  softest  part,  allow  2 lbs. 
of  best  white  sugar;  of  cloves  and 
mace,  each  oz. ; five  gills  of  vinegar. 
Boil  well  together  the  vinegar,  sugar, 
and  spices,  the  latter  in  a thin  muslin 
bag ; pour  hot  on  the  fruit,  and  let 
it  stand  a day  or  two.  Then  take 
out  the  citron,  boil  it  in  clear  water 
until  it  is  tender;  that  is,  if  it  is  the 
preserving  kind,  but  not  if  it  is  table- 
citron.  Pour  the  vinegar  and  spices, 
boiling  hot,  on  again.  The  second 
morning  repeat,  and  then  seal  care- 
fully. 

Cucumbers.  — Those  of  a medium 
size  are  best,  the  large  being  tough 
and  the  small  ones  insipid.  About 
fifty  of  the  right  size  will  fill  a two-gal- 
lon jar.  Wash  fifty  cucumbers  and 
lay  them  in  the  jar,  covering  them 
with  two  or  three  green  leaves  of  Sa- 
voy cabbage  (which  help  to  give  the 
pickles  a fine  color).  Make  a brine 
of  alum  salt  strong  enough  to  bear 
an  egg,  skim  it  carefully,  and  when 
it  boils  pour  it  over  the  cucumbers. 
This  process  is  to  be  performed  on 
each  of  three  successive  mornings, 
when  the  pickles  will  have  been  prop- 
erly salted.  To  take  the  salt  out  of 
them  you  next  scald  them  in  good 
hard  cider  or  diluted  vinegar,  and  lay 
them  on  a waiter  to  drain.  Now  put 
into  your  kettle  one  and  a half  gallons 
of  vinegar,  together  with  a lump  of 
alum  the  size  of  a nutmeg,  the  slices  of 


Cucumbers 


PICKLES,  ETC 


Fig  Pickles 


a medium-sized  root  of  horseradish, 
and  I oz.  each  of  celery  seed,  whole- 
grain  black  pepper  and  white  mustard- 
seed,  and  a few  sprigs  of  mace,  and 
keep  this  on  the  stove  till  it  boils. 
Lay  your  cucumbers  neatly  back  in 
the  jar,  adding  to  them  three  white 
onions  well  stuck  with  cloves,  and 
two  small  green  peppers;  cover  all 
with  the  cabbage  leaves,  pour  the 
spiced  vinegar  over  them  while  still 
hot,  and  when  the  jar  is  cool  tie  it  up 
neatly  with  stout  paper  and  twine  and 
put  in  the  cellar  or  a cool  closet.  The 
pickles  should  be  examined  occasion- 
ally, and  if  they  show  a disposition  to 
rise  too  high  for  the  vinegar,  weight 
them  down  with  an  inverted  saucer 
or  plate. 

Cucumbers  in  Mustard  Pickle.  — 

Prepare  cucumbers  as  usual.  Put  on 
to  boil  three  quarts  of  vinegar ; tie  in  a 
bag  five  cents’  worth  of  turmeric,  Y\  oz. 
each  of  cloves  and  allspice;  put  into 
the  vinegar  also  a few  onions  ; let  all 
boil  thirty  minutes ; strain  the  vinegar, 
and  put  back  on  the  stove.  Mix  I lb. 
of  mustard,  one  teacupful  of  flour,  and 
one  quart  of  vinegar  well  together,  free 
of  lumps.  When  the  vinegar  boils, 
add  the  mixture  of  vinegar,  mustard, 
and  flour;  let  it  bubble  once.  Take 
off  the  stove  and  put  the  pickles  into 
it,  letting  them  remain  in  the  kettle 
until  cold ; then  bottle. 

Cucumber  Pickles,  Oil. — This  very 
delicious  compound  is  prepared  as 
follows  : Pare  and  slice  four  dozen 
cucumbers  as  if  for  serving  on  table, 
put  them  into  brine  strong  enough 
to  bear  an  egg,  and  let  them  stand 
twenty-four  hours.  Slice  a dozen  or 
fourteen  onions ; cover  with  brine  for 
two  days.  Shake  off  the  brine 
thoroughly,  and  arrange  in  a jar  alter- 
nate layers  of  cucumbers  and  onions, 
adding  to  each  layer  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  mustard-seed  and  a salt-spoon- 
ful of  celery  seed.  Pour  olive  oil  and 
cider  vinegar  (if  obtainable)  over 
each  layer.  The  longer  this  pickle 
stands  the  better.  If  made  in  July 
it  should  not  be  used  till  December. 

16  5 


About  one  quart  of  olive  oil  is  re- 
quired. 

Cucumber  Sweet  Pickle. — Lay  the 

fruit,  when  first  gathered,  in  brine 
for  two  weeks,  or  three,  according  to 
the  size.  Then  take  them  from  the 
brine  and  put  them  into  cold  water 
a few  hours,  until  most  of  the  salt  is 
out.  They  are  now  to  be  greened  by 
filling  a brass  kettle  with  layers  of 
grape  leaves  and  cucumbers,  alternat- 
ing until  all  are  in,  and  over  each  lay- 
er of  leaves  sprinkle  a small  quantity 
of  powdered  alum.  Cover  with  cider 
vinegar,  and  boil  until  they  are  quite 
tender.  When  cold,  the  large  fruit 
should  be  sliced  in  pieces  about  three 
inches  long  and  half  an  inch  thick. 
Then  pack  them  in  stone  or  wide- 
mouthed glass  jars,  occasionally  put- 
ting in  a table-spoonful  of  white  and 
black  mustard-seed  mixed,  a small 
piece  of  race-ginger,  garlic,  if  liked, 
horseradish  ungrated,  whole  cloves, 
and  a very  little  allspice.  Slice  two 
or  three  green  peppers,  and  add  in 
very  small  quantities.  Every  third 
layer  should  have  a heaping  table- 
spoonful of  brown  sugar.  Cover  with 
cold  vinegar,  and  in  three  weeks  they 
will  be  fit  for  use. 

Eggs,  Pickled. — Boil  the  eggs  until 
hard,  then  lay  them  in  cold  water. 
Remove  the  shells,  and  put  five  eggs 
in  each  quart  fruit  - jar.  Scald  as 
much  vinegar  as  will  be  needed  ; add  a 
few  slices  of  freshly  boiled  red  beets, 
some  celery  seed,  peppercorns,  mus- 
tard-seed, and  a pinch  of  mace.  Fill 
the  jars  containing  the  eggs  with  the 
boiling  vinegar,  and  seal  at  once. 
Pickled  eggs  are  a palatable  addition 
to  broiled  or  baked  fish,  and  also  are 
very  good  eaten  with  lettuce  salad  and 
mayonnaise  dressing. 

Fig  Pickles. — These  are  unusual 
and  are  especially  delicious.  Weigh 
pulled  figs  and  take  lb.  of  sugar 
to  every  pound  of  fruit.  Make  a 
syrup  of  the  sugar  and  a cupful  of 
water  to  each  pound,  boil  and  skim 
for  five  minutes,  and  then  drop  the 


Fruit  in  Brandy  PICKLES,  ETC 


Grapes,  Pickled 


figs  in  and  simmer  till  a straw  will 
penetrate  them.  Put  them  in  jars  in 
layers  with  a few  cloves,  bits  of  whole 
cinnamon,  and  a very  little  mace  be- 
tween them,  and  cover  with  syrup,  but 
do  not  close  the  cans.  For  three 
mornings  pour  off  the  syrup  without 
moving  the  fruit,  reheat  it  to  the  boil- 
ing-point, and  put  it  back ; the  third 
morning  measure  it  and  allow  one 
cupful  of  vinegar  to  every  three  cup- 
fuls of  syrup,  boil  it  up  thoroughly, 
pour  at  once  over  the  figs,  and  close  the 
cans. 

Fruit  in  Brandy.  — First  clarify 
as  much  sugar  as  will  be  required ; 
allow  I lb.  of  sugar  to  every  2 lbs. 
of  fruit.  When  the  syrup  boils  gently 
lay  in  peeled  peaches,  apricots,  or 
plums,  pricked,  but  only  keep  them 
in  long  enough  to  be  softened ; be 
careful  they  do  not  crack.  Then 
take  out  the  fruit  on  a sieve  to  drain. 
Set  them  to  cool ; boil  the  syrup  un- 
til it  is  thick,  and  pour  it,  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  brandy,  over  the 
fruit,  which  should  previously  have 
been  placed  in  the  jars. 

Fruits,  Spiced  (small). — Stem  cur- 
rants, stone  cherries,  pulp  and  seed 
grapes,  top  and  tail  gooseberries.  To 
every  5 lbs.  of  the  prepared  fruit  allow 
a pint  of  vinegar,  4 lbs.  of  sugar,  and 
two  table-spoonfuls  each  of  cinnamon 
and  cloves.  Put  all  on  the  fire  to- 
gether, bring  to  a boil,  and  then  cook 
half  an  hour.  Put  up  in  pint  jars  or 
half -pint  tumblers,  closing  while  hot. 

Fruit,  Spiced  ^ (in  brandy).  — 
Peaches,  pears,  cherries,  egg-plums, 
greengages,  and  sweet,  fleshy,  light- 
colored  grapes  are  best  for  spicing. 
Use  perfect  fruit,  fully  ripe,  but  not 
over-ripe.  Leave  cherries  and  grapes 
on  the  stem,  but  cut  the  grapes  into 
clusters  of  five  or  six,  unless  the  fruit 
is  meant  for  decorative  uses.  Do  not 
peel  either  pears  or  peaches.  Y/ash 
well,  and  wipe  the  rind  with  a rough 
towel.  Stick  in  four  cloves  around 
the  blossom  end  of  each  of  the  pears 
and  the  stem  end  of  each  of  the  peaches. 


Omit  cloves  with  cherries,  grapes,  or 
plums — their  flavor  is  not  consonant. 
Allspice  discolors,  and  should  not  be 
used  for  any  sort.  Put  half  an  inch 
of  refined  sugar  over  the  bottom  of  a 
deep  earthen  jar.  Cover  it  with  a 
layer  of  fruit.  Over  that  strew  thick- 
ly bruised  ginger,  stick  cinnamon 
(broken  fine),  grated  nutmeg,  and  the 
yellow  of  lemon  or  orange  peel,  grated 
fresh.  Cover  with  sugar,  shaking  it 
down  into  every  crevice.  Repeat  the 
layers  until  your  jar  is  full.  Cherries, 
plums,  and  very  early  peaches  may  be 
used  together.  In  that  case  put  no 
cloves  in  the  peaches.  On  top  of  the 
last  layer  of  spices  put  a single  pod  of 
genuine  cayenne  pepper.  Cover  with 
an  especially  thick  layer  of  sugar ; 
then  pour  on  enough  good  brandy  or 
corn  whiskey  to  come  an  inch  above 
the  sugar.  Next  day  the  spirit  will 
have  been  a third  absorbed.  Fill  up 
with  it  again.  Tie  down  secure^  and 
let  stand  a month.  This  is  one  of  the 
finest  accompaniments  for  a game 
course,  or  for  serving  in  tiny  saucers 
after  a regular  dessert. 

Fruit  Sweet  Pickles. — The  follow- 
ing will  answer  equally  for  damsons, 
plums,  cherries,  apricots,  and  peaches, 
serves  every  purpose  of  a fine -fla- 
vored handsome  pickle  of  good  keep- 
ing qualities,  and  has  the  advantage 
of  giving  but  little  trouble  : Prepare 
your  fruit  as  for  preserving,  stoning  it, 
and  to  7 lbs.  of  fruit  take  3 l/z  lbs.  of 
clean,  brown  sugar,  one  pint  of  vin- 
egar, and  I oz.  each  of  cinnamon  in 
sticks,  sprig  mace,  and  cloves.  Put 
the  fruit  into  a jar,  boil  the  vinegar  and 
spices  together,  and  pour  it  over  the 
fruit,  letting  it  stand  for  two  days. 
Then  pour  the  vinegar  off  again,  put 
it  on  to  boil,  and  when  hot  pour  in 
the  fruit  and  boil  all  together  until 
clear  and  transparent.  This  does 
just  as  well  as  the  repeated  scaldings 
usually  recommended. 

Gherkins.  See  Cucumbers. 

Grapes,  Pickled. — Take  ripe  grapes ; 
remove  imperfect  and  broken  ones. 


242 


Grape  Pickle,  Sweet  PICKLES,  ETC 


Mixed  Pickles 


Line  an  earthen  jar  with  grape  leaves ; 
then  fill  with  grapes.  To  two  quarts 
of  vinegar  allow  one  pint  of  white 
sugar,  Y2  oz.  of  ground  cinnamon, 
and  % oz.  of  cloves.  Let  the  vinegar 
and  spices  boil  for  five  minutes,  then 
add  the  sugar.  Let  it  come  to  a boil, 
and  when  cold  pour  over  the  grapes. 
If  poured  on  while  hot  it  shrivels 
them,  even  if  it  does  not  break  the 
skin  and  spoil  the  appearance  of  the 
pickles. 

Grape  Pickle,  Sweet. — Pick  io  lbs. 
of  large,  ripe  grapes  from  the  stems. 
Put  in  jars.  Make  syrup  of  6 lbs.  of 
sugar  and  a quart  of  vinegar ; season 
with  cinnamon,  mace,  and  cloves ; 
pour  over  the  grapes  boiling  hot, 
and  seal.  If  preferred,  the  grapes 
may  be  left  on  the  stems  and  pickled 
in  bunches. 

Grapes,  Spiced. — To  6 lbs.  of  the 
grape  pulp  allow  3 lbs.  of  sugar, 
one  table-spoonful  of  cinnamon,  one 
dessert-spoonful  each  of  cloves,  all- 
spice, and  grated  nutmeg,  one  tea- 
spoonful of  pepper  and  one  of  salt, 
two  quarts  of  vinegar.  Cook  all  to- 
gether, stirring  constantly,  until  it  is 
the  consistency  of  catsup ; bottle  and 
seal. 

Lemons,  Pickled. — To  six  large 
lemons  allow  two  quarts  of  boiling 
water,  one  quart  of  vinegar,  x/z  oz. 
of  cloves,  x/z  oz.  of  white  pepper, 
1 oz.  of  grated  ginger,  Yz  oz.  of  stripped 
mace,  1 oz.  of  mustard-seed,  Y2  oz. 
of  grated  horseradish,  and  a few 
cloves  of  garlic.  Put  the  lemons  into 
a brine  strong  enough  to  bear  an 
egg ; let  them  remain  six  days,  stir- 
ring the  brine  every  day.  On  the  sixth 
day  take  the  lemons  out,  throw  them 
into  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and 
boil  them  fifteen  minutes.  Let  them 
dry  and  get  perfectly  cold  ort  a fine 
hair  sieve.  Boil  all  the  other  in- 
gredients in  the  vinegar ; put  the 
lemons  into  stone  jars,  pour  in  the 
boiling  vinegar,  cover  closely,  and 
stand  away  to  cool.  When  cold, 
make  the  covers  air-tight,  and  keep 


for  six  months,  when  they  will  be 
fit  for  use. 

Mangoes,  Oil.  — Take  four  dozen 
small  mangoes,  or  large,  yellow  cu- 
cumbers, soak  in  strong  brine  for  two 
or  three  days,  wash  them,  remove  the 
seed,  and  lay  them  in  a kettle  ; sprin- 
kle with  powdered  alum,  cover  with 
grape-vine  or  cabbage  leaves,  pour 
over  sufficient  vinegar  to  half  fill  the 
kettle,  and  let  simmer  one  hour. 
Drain  the  mangoes,  and  fill  with 
stuffing  made  of  Y2  lb.  of  mustard- 
seed,  2 ozs.  each  of  ground  mustard, 
black  pepper,  turmeric,  and  cloves ; 
I oz.  of  celery  seed,  Yz  oz.  of  pow- 
dered mace,  and  2 lbs.  of  brown  sugar, 
mixed  to  a paste  with  olive  oil.  Put 
in  a jar  with  Y2  lb-  of  coarse  salt,  and 
pour  over  a gallon  of  vinegar. 

Mangoes,  Pepper. — Take  fifty  full- 
grown  pods  of  red  pepper,  cut  the 
stem  out  with  a sharp  knife,  and 
scrape  out  the  seeds.  Lay  the  pods 
in  brine,  and  let  soak  for  twenty- 
four  hours  ; drain,  and  fill  each  pepper 
with  a dressing  made  of  chopped 
cabbage  seasoned  with  one  table- 
spoonful of  salt  and  pulverized  mus- 
tard-seed each,  one  teaspoonful  of 
grated  horseradish,  one  teaspoonful 
of  black  pepper,  and  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  made  mustard ; replace  the 
stems,  sew  with  a coarse  thread, 
pack  in  a stone  jar,  cover  with  strong 
vinegar,  and  let  stand  two  weeks 
before  using. 

Mixed  Pickles  (good  for  use  as  soon 
as  made).  — Cabbage,  two  quarts ; 
green  tomatoes,  one  quart ; onions,  one 
pint ; green  cayenne  pepper,  one  pod. 
After  taking  out  the  seed  of  this 
last,  chop  all  up  fine  and  mix  together 
thoroughly.  Let  the  vegetables  stand 
covered  all  night,  when  the  liquor 
must  be  strained  off  and  thrown 
away.  Now  season  with  a table- 
spoonful of  ground  mustard,  a table- 
spoonful of  ginger,  the  same  each 
of  cinnamon,  cloves,  salt,  and  celery- 
seed.  Cover  with  cold  vinegar  (two 
quarts  will  be  enough  to  allow),  and 


243 


Muskmelon  Pickles  PICKLES,  ETC 


Peaches,  Spiced 


your  ingredients  are  complete.  Boil 
steadily  until  the  vegetables  are 
clear  and  tender,  when  the  pickle 
will  be  ready  for  immediate  use. 
If  you  prefer  a yellow  color  to  the 
natural  green  one  of  the  vegetables, 
tie  up  2 ozs.  of  turmeric  in  a muslin 
bag  and  put  it  in  to  boil  with  the 
pickle.  Remove  it  afterwards. 

Muskmelon  Pickles.  — Pare  the 
rind  off  ripe,  spicy  green  melons,  re- 
move the  seeds,  and  cut  into  thick 
slices.  Weigh  as  for  peaches,  7 lbs. 
of  fruit  and  3%  lbs.  of  sugar,  and  put 
the  sugar  over  with  enough  water  to 
readily  dissolve  it.  Boil  and  skim  it 
till  clear,  and  then  pour  it  over  the 
melon  in  a crock.  Repeat  this  for 
three  mornings,  but  on  the  third  add 
a cupful  of  vinegar  to  each  three  pints 
of  syrup  and  boil  it  up  with  a cupful 
of  spices  in  a bag.  Pour  it  over  the 
melon  in  jars  and  seal  at  once. 

Nasturtium  Pickles.  — Pick  nas- 
turtium seed  - pods,  leaving  short 
stems  on  them.  Lay  them  in  a weak 
brine  for  two  days,  and  then  in  fresh 
water  one  day.  Put  in  jars  and  turn 
over  them  boiling  vinegar  which 
has  been  heated  with  a slice  of  onion, 
a few  bay-leaves,  and  a small  cupful 
of  spices  tied  in  a bag.  Seal  and  put 
away  for  a month  before  using.  These 
may  be  chopped  and  put  between 
bread  - and  - butter  for  nice  pickle 
sandwiches  in  winter. 

Oysters,  Pickled. — Take  of  oysters 
six  quarts  ; salt,  four  table-spoonfuls  ; 
vinegar,  half  a pint ; of  black  pepper, 
whole,  allspice,  and  mace,  each  two 
table-spoonfuls ; of  cloves,  two  dozen. 
Drain  all  the  liquor  from  the  oysters, 
add  the  spices  to  it,  boil  fifteen  min- 
utes, skimming  carefully,  then  put  in 
the  oysters  and  boil  till  they  are 
done,  which  will  be  when  they  are 
nicely  plumped. 

Peaches,  Brandy.  — One  peck  of 
peaches,  5 lbs.  of  sugar,  one  quart  of 
brandy.  Put  the  peaches  into  boil- 
ing water,  let  them  remain  three  or 


four  minutes,  then  take  them  out  and 
throw  into  cold  water.  Wipe  the 
peaches  with  a coarse  towel,  rub  them 
smooth,  then  put  them  into  another 
vessel  of  cold  water.  Make  a syrup 
of  the  sugar  according  to  recipe  given 
for  preserved  peaches ; put  the  peaches 
into  it,  and  boil  until  a straw  can  be 
run  through.  Take  them  out,  add 
the  brandy  to  the  syrup,  and  boil  for 
half  an  hour.  Remove  from  the  fire, 
put  the  peaches  into  glass  jars,  and 
pour  the  syrup  hot  over  them.  They 
will  be  ready  for  use  in  three  months. 

Peach  Mangoes. — Pour  boiling  salt 
water  over  four  dozen  peaches ; let 
them  stand  two  days;  drain,  split 
them  on  one  side,  and  soak  in  turmeric 
vinegar  for  twenty-four  hours.  Ex- 
tract the  seed.  Prepare  a filling  of  one 
dozen  chopped  peaches,  I oz.  each  of 
celery  - seed,  white  mustard  - seed, 
turmeric,  and  black  pepper,  oz.  of 
cinnamon,  and  one  finely  chopped 
onion.  Stuff  the  peaches,  put  in  a 
jar,  sprinkle  with  brown  sugar,  cover 
with  vinegar,  and  let  stand  six  weeks 
before  using. 

Peach  Mangoes,  Sweet. — Take  five 
dozen  large,  firm  peaches.  Peel  and 
take  out  the  seed.  Mash  a dozen  soft 
peaches,  chop  1 oz.  each  of  orange- 
peel,  preserved  ginger,  candied  cher- 
ries, and  lemon ; mix  with  a teaspoon- 
ful  of  ground  cinnamon,  one  grated 
nutmeg,  and  half  a teaspoonful  of  cori- 
ander-seed. Fill  the  peaches,  sew  up, 
and  put  in  jars.  Make  a syrup  of  a 
quart  of  vinegar  and  4 lbs.  of  sugar, 
pour  over  the  peaches  boiling  hot. 
Seal,  and  set  in  a cool,  dark  place. 

Peaches,  Spiced. — Weigh  8 lbs.  of 
freestone  peaches  after  they  have  been 
halved,  the  stones  taken  out,  and 
peeled.  Put  in  a porcelain  kettle  with 
one  pint  of  vinegar  and  5 lbs.  of  sugar. 
Tie  up  in  six  or  eight  small  cheese- 
cloth bags  a mixture  of  1 oz.  each  of 
whole  cloves,  cinnamon,  green  gin- 
ger, and  whole  mace,  and  put  these 
bags  in  the  kettle.  Simmer  until  the 
peaches  are  tender,  and  then  take 


244 


Pears,  Pickled 


PICKLES,  ETC  . Piccalilli,  Yellow 


them  out  with  a skimmer  and  put  in 
jars.  Boil  the  syrup  a minute,  and 
pour  over  the  fruit  in  the  jars. 
Break  a few  of  the  stones  and  add  the 
kernels,  blanched  in  hot  water,  to  the 
pickles. 

Pears,  Pickled.  — Take  7 lbs.  of 
pears,  pare  and  steam  them  until  you 
can  run  a fork  through  them  easily ; 
then  put  into  a preserving-kettle  with 
three  pints  of  vinegar,  3 lbs.  of  sugar, 
half  a cupful  of  spices — equal  parts  of 
cloves,  cinnamon,  and  allspice  — and 
boil  until  they  are  cooked  through. 
Put  them  in  a jar  and  boil  the  liquid 
down  until  thick  ; pour  over  the  fruit, 
and  when  used  for  the  table  serve 
some  of  the  syrup  with  them. 

Another  way  : — To  10  lbs.  of  fruit 
allow  7 lbs.  of  sugar,  two  quarts  of 
vinegar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  ground 
cinnamon,  one  lemon,  sliced  very  thin, 
and  a little  mace.  Stick  two  or  three 
whole  cloves  in  each  pear.  Put  the 
fruit  in  the  cold  vinegar  and  sugar 
and  boil  until  soft ; take  out  and  put 
in  jars,  allowing  the  vinegar  to  boil 
until  reduced  to  the  quantity  needed 
for  filling  the  jars ; pour  it  over  the 
fruit.  In  three  days  pour  off  the 
vifregar  and  reboil.  The  pickles  will 
be  ready  for  use  in  two  weeks  or  ten 
days. 

Pears,  Spiced. — Cut  in  half  and  pare 
7 lbs.  of  the  best  winter  pears — those 
commencing  to  soften  are  best.  Pour 
a pint  and  a half  of  good  cider  vinegar 
over  3 lbs.  of  the  best  brown  sugar. 
Put  the  vinegar  and  sugar  in  a pre- 
serving - kettle,  add  I oz.  of  whole 
cloves,  /4  oz.  of  mace,  and  half  a dozen 
pieces  of  ginger-root ; boil,  and  skim 
well.  When  clear,  put  in  the  fruit, 
and  cook  slowly  for  two  hours ; when 
cold,  put  in  jars  and  seal  air-tight. 

Peppers  (to  pickle  quickly). — Put 
the  peppers  into  a bowl,  and  pour  over 
them  a very  strong  brine.  Put  a 
board  over  them  to  keep  them  under 
the  water,  and  let  them  lie  for  two  days. 
Drain  them,  make  a small  incision  in 
the  side  of  each  to  let  out  the  water, 


wipe  them  with  a soft  cloth,  and  put 
them  into  a stone  jar,  with  x/z  oz.  of 
allspice,  x/z  oz.  of  cloves,  and  a small 
lump  of  alum.  Pour  cold  vinegar 
over  them,  and  tie  a bladder  securely 
over  the  jar.  When  pickled  in  this 
way,  the  peppers  will  preserve  their 
color. 

Piccalilli. — Chop  a peck  of  green 
tomatoes,  mix  with  a cupful  of  salt, 
and  let  them  stand  all  night.  The 
next  day  pour  off  the  brine  and  throw 
it  away,  and  mix  in  the  pickle  one 
large  head  of  celery  and  six  small 
onions,  chopped  fine,  and  a head  of 
cauliflower  picked  up  into  flowerets, 
with  two  quarts  of  vinegar,  a few 
slices  of  horseradish,  two  cupfuls 
of  brown  sugar,  one  table-spoonful 
each  of  ground  cinnamon,  allspice, 
and  dry  mustard,  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  white  pepper.  Cook  slowly  all  day. 

Piccalilli,  Yellow. — Five  gallons  of 
pure  cider  vinegar,  1 lb.  of  race-ginger, 
1 lb.  of  black  pepper,  1 lb.  of  horse- 
radish, 1 lb.  of  black  mustard-seed,  1 
lb.  of  garlic,  2 ozs.  of  nutmeg,  2 ozs.  of 
mace,  2 ozs.  of  cloves,  2 ozs.  of  turmeric 
mixed  with  sufficient  sweet  oil  to  form 
a paste,  2 ozs.  of  red  peppers  about  a 
finger  long,  one  dozen  small,  hard 
heads  of  early  York  cabbage,  split  in 
two  pieces,  one  dozen  clingstone 
peaches,  two  bunches  of  asparagus, 
twelve  heads  of  small  celery,  one  quart 
of  green  apricots,  one  quart  of  small, 
white  onions,  two  dozen  ears  of  corn 
about  the  size  of  the  finger,  and  one 
pint  of  tender  snap-beans.  Every- 
thing except  the  peaches,  celery,  and 
sweet  spices  must  be  scalded  and  re- 
main in  the  water  twelve  hours,  and 
then  be  dried  in  the  sun,  with  salt 
sprinkled  over  them.  Add  one  small 
bottle  of  London  mustard,  mixed  with 
good  olive  oil.  The  pickle  should  be 
kept  in  a stone  jar,  and  stirred  occa- 
sionally with  a wooden  spoon.  The 
housekeeper  who  furnished  this  recipe 
said  that  she  commenced  making  the 
pickle  in  early  summer,  adding  the 
various  fruits  and  vegetables  men- 
tioned as  they  came  in  season. 


245 


Pickle,  Green-tomato  PICKLES,  ETC.  Raspberry  Vinegar 


Pickle,  Green -tomato. — Fill  a gal- 
lon measure  with  sliced  green  tomatoes 
and  sprinkle  them  well  with  salt.  Let 
them  stand  thus  for  ten  or  twelve  hours, 
then  drain  well,  pressing  all  the  liquid 
out.  Now  mix  the  tomatoes  with  a 
gallon  of  chopped  cabbage  and  one 
pint  of  sliced  onions.  Add  4 lbs.  of 
brown  sugar,  five  table-spoonfuls  of 
ginger,  five  table-spoonfuls  of  mus- 
tard - seed,  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
black  pepper,  two  table-spconfuls  of 
celery  - seed,  two  table  - spoonfuls 
of  powdered  cinnamon,  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  coriander -seed,  three  ta- 
ble-spoonfuls of  powdered  cloves,  one 
nutmeg,  grated,  six  blades  of  mace, 

1 oz.  of  turmeric.  Put  all  together  in  a 
kettle  over  the  fire,  and  boil  until  the 
vegetables  are  tender  and  transparent. 
Put  away  in  small  jars.  All  the 
spices  must  be  ground  fine. 

Pickle  Pot  (to  be  made  in  Ma3?). — 
Eight  gallons  of  vinegar,  6 ozs.  of 
long  whole  peppers,  4 ozs.  of  mace, 

2 ozs.  of  white  race-ginger,  1 oz.  of 
turmeric,  8 ozs.  of  white  mustard- 
seed,  2 lbs.  of  black  pepper,  1 lb.  of 
allspice,  Y2  lb.  of  cloves,  Y2  lb.  of 
horseradish,  4 lbs.  of  celery  seed,  one 
dozen  lemons,  two  Y\  lb.  bottles  of 
mustard,  and  8 lbs.  of  sugar.  This 
recipe  is  intended  for  those  who  wish 
to  make  pickle  for  sale,  as  many 
women  are  now  doing  for  a liveli- 
hood, or  for  persons  who  have  to 
provide  for  very  large  families.  Con- 
noisseurs say  that  if  vinegar  is  thus 
spiced  in  the  spring,  covered  up 
close,  but  exposed  to  the  sun  daily 
until  August,  its  flavoring  virtues 
are  largely  increased.  Beware  of 
leaving  the  seeds  in  the  lemons, 
which  must,  of  course,  be  sliced  before 
they  are  added  to  the  pickle  pot. 
The  horseradish  must  be  scraped  and 
shredded,  and  the  onions  soaked 
and  chopped  up  fine. 

Pickle,  Rough  - and  - ready.  — Peel 
and  slice  six  dozen  cucumbers,  half  a 
peck  of  green  tomatoes,  half  a dozen 
green  peppers;  chop  them  fine  all 
together  and  salt  them ; slice  and 


chop  fine  twelve  large  white  onions, 
sprinkle  them  with  salt,  and  let  them 
stand  two  hours ; then  drain  all, 
mix,  and  pour  vinegar  over  them ; 
next  morning  pour  off  all  the  vinegar, 
add  half  a teacupful  of  pepper,  same 
of  allspice  in  muslin  bags ; pour  on 
fresh  vinegar,  and  let  them  come  to  a 
good  boil ; then  to  every  gallon  of 
pickle  add  Y2  lb.  of  brown  sugar, 
Y2  lb.  of  white  mustard-seed,  1 oz. 
of  cloves,  and  same  of  celery -seed. 
Delicious,  and  ready  to  be  used  in 
five  days,  though  much  improved 
by  longer  keeping. 

Planters’  Pickle. — This  pickle  has 
the  quality  elsewhere  spoken  of,  of 
keeping  so  well  that  a large  quantity 
may  be  made  at  once,  put  into  a 
tight  cask  with  close  - fitting  top, 
and  will  improve  with  age.  To  every 
five  gallons  of  cucumbers  put  15  lbs. 
of  brown  sugar,  12  ozs.  of  beaten  or 
ground  cinnamon,  3 ozs.  of  mace, 
Y2  lb.  of  black  pepper,  4 ozs.  of  ginger, 
2 ozs.  of  allspice,  1 oz.  of  cloves,  a 
teacupful  of  mustard  - seed  and  half 
a teacupful  of  made  mustard,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  salt,  a teacupful 
of  celery- seed,  Y2  lb.  of  scraped  horse- 
radish, and  a quart  of  onions,  sliced 
thin.  Put  half  of  the  sugar  and 
spices  into  a kettle  with  two  quarts 
of  fine  cider  vinegar,  strong  but  not 
too  sharp,  and  boil  together  for  half 
an  hour.  Put  it  into  a jar  to  cool. 
When  cold,  add  six  pints  more  of 
vinegar,  and  mix  well  together. 
Do  not  add  the  other  half  of  the  sugar 
and  spices  until  ten  days  afterwards. 
The  spices  must  be  ground.  When 
put  in  the  cask,  if  the  vinegar  is  not 
sufficient  to  cover  the  vegetables, 
add  until  this  is  the  case. 

Raspberry  Vinegar.  — Mash  five 
quarts  of  raspberries,  black  or  red, 
in  a large  crock,  and  cover  them 
with  genuine  cider  vinegar.  Let 
them  stand  in  the  sun  twelve  hours, 
and  keep  at  night  in  a cool  place. 
Stir  several  times  during  the  day. 
Strain  ; put  five  quarts  of  fresh  berries 
in  the  jar;  pour  the  strained  vinegar 


246 


Shallot  or  Garlic  Pickle  PICKLES,  ETC.  Tom  Thumb  Pickle 


over  these  ; mash  the  berries,  and  let 
them  stand  twenty-four  hours  longer. 
Strain,  measure,  and  to  each  quart 
of  the  liquid  allow  one  pint  of  water 
and  3 ibs.  of  sugar.  Cook,  stirring 
steadily,  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved, 
removing  the  scum  as  it  rises,  When 
it  comes  to  a boil  take  from  the  fire, 
bottle  while  warm,  cork  and  seal. 

Shallot  or  Garlic  Pickle.  — Steep 
% lb.  of  ginger  in  strong  salt  and 
water  for  five  days.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  cut  it  into  slices  and  dry 
it  in  the  sun ; put  it  into  a large  stone 
jar  with  a gallon  of  the  best  white- 
wine  vinegar.  Peel  I lb.  of  garlic 
or  shallot,  salt  it  well,  and  let  it  stand 
in  the  salt  for  three  days.  Wipe  it 
and  dry  it  in  the  sun,  then  put  it  into 
the  pickle.  Add  also  to  the  pickle 
% lb.  of  long  pepper  steeped  in  salt 
and  water  and  well  dried,  i lb.  of 
bruised  mustard -seed,  and  % lb.  of 
turmeric.  Shake  these  ingredients 
well  in  the  jar,  and  add  anything  that 
it  is  desirable  to  pickle  as  it  comes 
into  season,  salting  and  drying  it 
previously  in  the  sun.  When  com- 
pleted, the  pickle  should  be  kept  for  a 
year  or  two.  When  that  time  has 
expired,  it  will  be  found  to  be  excellent. 
The  flavor  of  shallots  or  garlic  may 
be  obtained  by  placing  them  in  a 
bottle  of  cold  vinegar;  in  a month 
they  will  be  found  to  have  imparted 
their  flavor  to  the  vinegar. 

Tomato  Butter. — Take  7 lbs.  of 
large,  ripe  tomatoes,  4 lbs.  of  brown 
sugar,  half  a cupful  of  vinegar,  one 
teaspoonful  of  ginger,  one  table- 
spoonful of  cinnamon,  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  cloves.  Pour  boiling  water 
over  the  tomatoes;  let  stand  five 
minutes,  then  the  skins  can  be  rubbed 
off;  remove  stem  end  and  then  slice 
tomatoes;  cook  until  soft;  add  the 
sugar,  and  stew  until  very  thick  ; then 
add  spices  and  vinegar ; pour  into  jars 
and  seal,  to  use  with  meat  or  game. 

Tomatoes,  Pickled.— Get  the  small, 
yellow,  pear  - shaped  tomatoes,  and 
wash,  wipe,  and  weigh  them.  To 


7 lbs.,  take  3 lbs.  of  sugar,  Yz  oz.  each 
of  stick  cinnamon  and  whole  cloves, 
a piece  of  ginger-root  as  large  as  your 
little  finger,  and  three  peppercorns, 
with  one  quart  of  vinegar.  Tie  the 
spices  in  a bag  and  boil  with  the 
sugar  and  vinegar  for  five  minutes. 
Cool,  and  then  drop  in  the  tomatoes, 
and  simmer  slowly  till  they  are  clear  ; 
put  them  in  jars,  and  boil  down  the 
syrup  and  pour  it  over  them. 

Tomatoes,  Pickled. — This  pickle  is 
very  good  with  roast  meat,  cold  or 
hot.  Take  two  dozen  small,  ripe 
tomatoes ; prick  each  one  in  two  or 
three  places,  carefully  preserve  the 
juice  that  flows  from  them,  and  keep 
it  in  a covered  vessel  until  wanted. 
Put  the  tomatoes  in  layers  in  a deep 
earthen  jar,  and  sprinkle  a little  salt 
between  each  layer.  Cover  the  pan, 
and  let  the  tomatoes  remain  undis- 
turbed for  three  days.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  wash  them  well  from  the 
brine  and  dry  them  carefully.  Put 
them  into  jars,  and  cover  them  with 
vinegar  which  has  been  boiled  and 
allowed  to  get  cold.  Add  the  juice 
which  flowed  from  the  fruit  in  the  first 
instance,  and  cover  the  jars  closely. 
The  pickle  wTill  be  ready  for  use  in 
a fortnight.  The  following  spices 
should  be  boiled  with  the  vinegar  for 
this  quantity  of  tomatoes  : Half  an 
ounce  of  pepper,  T/z  oz.  of  cloves,  and  a 
heaped  table-spoonful  of  mustard-seed. 
Sometimes  minced  onions  or  minced 
celery,  or  both,  are  put  into  the  jars 
with  the  tomatoes.  Time,  four  days. 

Tomato  Sweet  Pickle. — Green  to- 
matoes, one  peck ; onions,  one  dozen ; 
brown  sugar,  2 lbs.;  mustard  - seed, 
Vz  lb. ; and  1 oz.  each  of  allspice, 
cloves,  ground  pepper,  and  ground 
ginger.  Slice  the  tomatoes  and  on- 
ions, add  half  a pint  of  salt,  let  stand 
twenty-four  hours,  drain  well,  put 
in  a preserving  - kettle  in  layers  al- 
ternate with  the  mixed  spices,  and 
boil  slowly  until  clear. 

Tom  Thumb  Pickle.  — Cover  with 
strong  brine  for  twenty-four  hours  one 


247 


Walnuts,  Pickled  PICKLES,  ETC 


Yellow  Pickle 


thousand  small  cucumbers,  then  wash 
with  cold  water,  and  let  them  dry. 
Mix  thoroughly  4 lbs.  of  brown  sugar, 
I lb.  of  white  mustard  - seed,  2 ozs. 
of  cloves  (whole),  2 ozs.  of  allspice 
(whole),  I oz.  of  cinnamon,  1 oz.  of 
white  ginger-root,  2 ozs.  of  black  pep- 
per (whole),  a half-pint  of  horseradish, 
cut  fine,  a half-pint  of  small  red  pep- 
pers, four  or  five  dozen  very  small, 
white  onions,  three  dozen  cloves  of 
garlic.  Put  the  cucumbers  into  a 
very  large  stone  jar,  alternating  a 
layer  of  cucumbers  and  a layer  of  the 
above  mixture.  Cover  the  whole  with 
good,  cold,  cider  vinegar.  A plate  with 
a weight  should  be  set  on  them. 

Walnuts,  Pickled. — Take  the  wal- 
nuts when  they  are  well  filled  out,  but 
tender.  Pierce  each  one  with  a strong 
needle  three  or  four  times  and  lay  them 
in  a brine  which  completely  dissolves 
its  salt,  changing  it  for  fresh  every  day 
for  nine  days;  then  spread  the  nuts 
in  the  air  till  they  become  black.  Put 
them  in  crocks  and  pour  over  them 
this  mixture,  boiling  hot : A gallon 
of  vinegar,  1 oz.  each  of  ginger-root, 
allspice,  mace,  and  whole  cloves,  and 
add  2 ozs.  of  peppercorns,  boiled  all 
together  for  ten  minutes.  Cover, 
pressing  the  nuts  under  the  vinegar 
with  a plate,  and  let  them  stand  six 
weeks  before  using. 

Another  way  : — This  is  a very  fa- 
vorite pickle,  but  growing  rare,  because 
the  nut  is  difficult  to  obtain  just  in  the 
right  condition  for  pickling.  The 
long,  white  walnut  is  the  proper  kind 
for  pickling  and  making  catsup,  but 
is  only  to  be  found  in  the  forests,  and 
is  seldom  brought  to  market.  They 
should  be  gathered  early  in  June, 
while  very  young  and  tender.  The 
English  walnut,  however,  also  makes 
a fine  pickle  and  catsup.  The  flavor 
of  either  is  so  piquant  that  one  is  well 
rewarded  for  a little  trouble  in  getting 
the  materials  for  its  concoction.  Lay 
the  walnuts  in  strong  salt-water  for 
two  weeks.  Then  take  them  out  and 
rub  them  dry  with  a coarse  cloth,  and 
put  them  in  fresh  water  for  one  night. 
Meanwhile  prepare  a vinegar  for  them 


by  adding  to  each  quart  two  onions, 
chopped  fine,  a pod  of  red  pepper,  a 
teaspoonful  of  whole  white  pepper,  a 
teaspoonful  of  cloves,  the  same  of  all- 
spice, and  a table-spoonful  each  of 
celery-seed,  and  white  and  black  mus- 
tard. Put  the  walnuts  in  a kettle  over 
the  fire,  covering  them  with  the  spiced 
vinegar,  and  boil  until  the  nuts  are 
well  impregnated  with  its  flavor. 
Cover  up  the  jar  tight,  and  at  the  end 
of  a week  try  your  pickles,  and,  if  not 
ripe  enough,  pour  off  the  vinegar,  boil 
it,  and  return  it  to  the  pickle  scalding 
hot,  at  the  same  time  sealing  up  close. 

Watermelon  Rind. — Pare  off  the 
green  outside  and  cut  out  the  pink  in- 
side, slicing  the  white  part  in  thick 
strips.  Weigh  8 lbs.  and  put  it  in  the 
preserving-kettle.  Boil  1 oz.  of  alum 
in  one  gallon  of  water  till  dissolved, 
and  pour  over  the  rinds  ; stand  on  the 
back  of  the  stove  for  three  hours.  Have 
some  ice -water  ready  then,  and  lift 
them  out  into  this,  letting  them  lie  for 
half  an  hour.  Then  take  4 lbs.  of 
brown  sugar,  one  quart  of  vinegar, 
and  a cupful  of  mixed  spices  tied  in  a 
bag,  and  boil  together  for  three  min- 
utes, skimming  it ; cool  a little,  and 
drop  in  the  rinds,  and  simmer  gently 
for  half  an  hour  ; put  in  jars,  boil  down 
the  syrup,  and  pour  it  over. 

Yellow  Pickle  (Virginia  recipe).-- 
Put  all  the  articles  desired  for  the 
pickle  into  a jar — tiny  cucumbers, 
onions,  cauliflower  cut  into  pieces, 
ears  of  young  corn  about  an  inch  or 
two  long,  etc.  Cover  wifh  boiling  salt 
and  water,  allowing  them  to  remain  in 
it  for  forty-eight  hours.  At  the  end  of 
that  time  take  out  of  the  water,  place 
them  on  a thick  cloth,  expose  to  the 
sun  to  dry,  turning  them  over  occa- 
sionally. When  thoroughly  dry,  place 
them  in  a jar  and  cover  with  cold  vin- 
egar, to  which  has  been  added  a small 
quantity  of  turmeric,  to  color  them; 
let  them  stand  in  this  for  two  weeks 
to  drain  out  the  water  and  plump 
them  ; then  pour  off  this  vinegar  and 
add  the  prepared  vinegar.  In  three 
months  they  will  be  fit  to  use. 


Catsup,  Creole 


PICKLES,  ETC.  Catsup,  Green-tomato 


CATSUPS,  CHILLI  SAUCE,  ETC. 


Catsup,  Creole.  — Take  a dozen 
green  cucumbers,  peel  and  cut  up, 
sprinkle  with  salt,  and  let  stand 
six  hours ; pour  the  water  from  them 
and  scald  in  vinegar.  Prepare  half 
a gallon  of  cabbage  in  the  same 
way.  Chop  a dozen  onions,  cover 
with  boiling  water,  and  let  stand  for 
half  an  hour.  Chop  one  quart  of  ten- 
der, green  tomatoes,  one  pint  of  green 
beans,  and  one  dozen  pods  of  green 
pepper.  Put  in  a preserve  - kettle 
with  a dozen  very  small  young  ears 
of  corn.  Scald  and  drain.  Mix 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  grated  horse- 
radish, one  teacupful  of  ground 
mustard,  half  a teacupful  of  white 
mustard -seed,  three  table -spoonfuls 
of  turmeric,  three  of  celery  seed,  one 
of  cinnamon,  one  of  cayenne,  two  of 
olive  oil,  and  I lb.  of  sugar.  Put  in 
a jar  with  the  prepared  vegetables, 
cover  with  boiling  vinegar,  and  set 
in  a cool,  dry  place. 

Catsup,  Creole  Tomato.  — Boil 
sufficient  ripe  tomatoes  to  yield  two 
gallons  of  juice.  Put  into  a kettle, 
with  a table  - spoonful  of  ground 
ginger,  two  of  ground  cloves,  one  of 
allspice,  cinnamon,  and  black  pepper 
each,  two  of  grated  horseradish,  two 
of  salt,  a teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  and 
a quart  of  wine  vinegar ; let  boil  until 
thick;  add.  4 lbs.  of  brown  sugar. 
Take  from  the  fire.  When  cold,  bottle 
and  seal. 

Catsup,  Cucumber.  — Take  of  full- 
grown  cucumbers,  say,  one  peck ; 
remove  the  rind  and  cut  them  down 
lengthwise,  then  into  thin,  dice- 
shaped pieces ; strew  half  a pint  of 
salt  on  them  ; let  them  stand  five  or 
six  hours,  then  put  them  on  a sieve 
to  drain  until  quite  dry.  Peel  and 
slice  twelve  large,  silver-skinned  on- 
ions; put  them  with  the  cucumbers 
into  a stone  pot,  and  cover  them  with 
strong  vinegar.  Add  for  seasoning  a 
table-spoonful  of  black  pepper  beaten 


up  fine,  a teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  a gill 
of  sweet  oil,  a gill  of  Madeira  wine, 
and  a few  blades  of  mace.  A few  pods 
of  a miniature  variety  of  red  pepper, 
used  instead  of  the  pulverized  cay- 
enne, gives  the  sauce  quite  an  orna- 
mental appearance.  The  largest  cu- 
cumbers, ripened  almost  enough  for 
seed,  serve  admirably  for  making  this 
sort  of  catsup.  If  the  bottles  are  care- 
fully sealed  up.  there  is  no  danger 
whatever  of  spoiling. 

Catsup,  Currant.  — Four  pounds 
of  currants  and  2 lbs.  of  sugar,  one 
pint  of  vinegar,  one  teaspoonful 
each  of  cloves  and  salt,  one  table- 
spoonful each  of  cinnamon,  black 
pepper,  and  allspice.  Boil  together 
in  a porcelain  - lined  kettle  until 
thoroughly  cooked,  then  rub  them 
through  a sieve.  Return  the  strained 
liquid  to  the  fire  and  boil  until  it  is 
just  thick  enough  to  run  freely  when 
cold.  Cork  and  keep  in  a cool  place. 

Catsup,  Grape.  — Six  pounds  of 
grape  pulp.  Prepare  this  by  stem- 
ming the  grapes,  putting  them  over  the 
fire  with  a little  water,  and  cooking 
until  so  tender  that  the  pulp  can  be 
rubbed  through  a sieve,  leaving  the 
seeds  and  skins  behind.  To  the 
pulp  thus  obtained  add  2 lbs.  of 
brown  sugar,  one  pint  of  vinegar, 
one  table-spoonful  each  of  ground 
cinnamon,  mace,  cloves,  allspice,  and 
white  pepper,  and  a teaspoonful  of 
salt.  Put  all  together  over  the  fire, 
stew  until  thick,  stirring  constantly 
to  prevent  burning,  and  bottle. 

Catsup,  Green  - tomato. — Take  a 
peck  of  green  tomatoes,  a large  head 
of  cabbage,  and  a dozen  onions ; chop 
all  together  very  fine,  sprinkle  with 
salt,  and  let  stand  overnight;  put 
in  a stone  jar  with  I oz.  of  white 
mustard-seed,  Yz  oz.  of  ground  cloves, 
1 oz.  of  allspice,  two  pods  of  red  pepper, 
chopped  fine,  and  a teacupful  of  brown 


249 


Catsup,  Mixed  PICKLES,  ETC.  Catsup, Tomato  Soy 


sugar.  Cover  with  strong  vinegar, 
and  set  in  a cool,  dark  place. 

Catsup,  Mixed. — Slice  four  dozen 
cucumbers,  two  dozen  onions,  four 
dozen  large  green  tomatoes,  and 
four  green  peppers ; sprinkle  with  one 
pint  of  salt,  and  let  stand  overnight; 
then  drain.  Put  in  a preserve-kettle, 
with  sliced  horseradish,  I oz.  each  of 
mace,  white  pepper,  turmeric,  white 
mustard-seed,  cloves,  and  celery  seed, 
with  I /4  lbs.  of  brown  sugar  and  one 
gallon  of  vinegar ; boil  one  hour. 
Put  in  jars,  and  add  a teacupful  of 
cold  vinegar  to  each. 

Catsup,  Mushroom.  — Use  large, 
fresh  mushrooms,  and  wipe  but  do 
not  wash  them.  Put  them  in  an 
earthen  jar  with  alternate  layers  of 
salt,  and  stand  in  a warm  place  for 
twentyj-four  hours,  and  then  press 
them  through  a thin,  strong  cloth. 
Put  this  juice  over  the  fire  with  ^ oz. 
of  peppercorns  to  each  pint,  and 
simmer  slowly  for  forty  minutes. 
Then  measure  again,  and  to  each 
pint  add  x/\  oz.  each  of  allspice,  green 
ginger-root  cut  in  bits,  and  whole 
cloves,  with  one  blade  of  mace.  Boil 
fifteen  minutes,  strain  through  a 
cloth,  and  seal. 

Catsup,  Red -pepper. — Take  four 
dozen  pods  of  red  pepper,  put  in  a 
preserve-kettle  with  a pint  of  strong 
vinegar  and  a quart  of  water ; set  on 
the  fire  and  let  come  to  a boil ; add  two 
roots  of  grated  horseradish,  six  sliced 
onions,  a dozen  whole  cloves,  and 
I oz.  of  white  mustard-seed ; let  boil 
ten  minutes  longer,  and  strain.  Put 
back  in  the  kettle  with  a teacupful  of 
brown  sugar,  2 ozs.  of  celery  seed, 
and  a quart  of  strong  vinegar.  Boil 
one  hour,  and  bottle.  This  catsup 
will  keep  for  any  length  of  time. 

Catsup,  Southern.  — Peel  and  cut 
up  green,  crisp  cucumbers  to  fill  a 
half  • gallon  measure  ; sprinkle  with 
salt,  and  let  stand  six  hours ; press 
the  water  from  them,  and  scald  in 
vinegar.  Prepare  half  a gallon  of 


cabbage  in  the  same  way.  Chop  one 
dozen  small  onions,  cover  with  boiling 
water,  and  let  stand  half  an  hour. 
Cut  in  slices  one  quart  of  green  toma- 
toes, one  pint  of  green  beans,  one 
dozen  small  ears  of  tender  corn,  with 
one  dozen  green  peppers ; scald  and 
drain  them.  Mix  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  grated  horseradish,  one  teacupful 
of  ground  mustard,  two  cupfuls  of 
white  mustard  - seed,  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  turmeric,  one  of  mace, 
three  of  celery  seed,  one  of  cinnamon, 
one  of  cayenne,  two  of  olive  oil,  I lb. 
of  sugar.  Put  in  a jar  with  the  pre- 
pared vegetables,  and  cover  with 
boiling  vinegar. 

Catsup,  Tomato. — The  following 
recipe  is  for  a tomato  soy  that  is 
finely  flavored  and  will  keep : Take 
one  peck  of  ripe  tomatoes,  eight  table- 
spoonfuls of  mixed  mustard,  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  salt,  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  ground  black  pepper, 
one-half  a table-spoonful  of  allspice, 
four  pods  of  red  pepper ; simmer  the 
ingredients  three  hours,  strain 
through  a sieve,  add  one  quart  of 
vinegar,  simmer  ten  minutes  longer; 
then  pour  it  into  small  bottles,  cork 
tightly,  and  keep  in  a cool  place. 

Another  way  : — One  peck  of  toma- 
toes, boiled  and  strained;  return  to 
the  fire  and  add  half  a dozen  onions, 
chopped  fine,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
black  pepper,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
allspice,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cloves, 
2 ozs.  of  celery  seed,  % lb.  of  salt — 
or  more,  if  liked — I lb.  of  sugar; 
boil  several  hours,  stirring  con- 
stantly during  the  last  hour.  Put  in 
stone  jars,  and  when  cool  add  a pint 
of  strong  vinegar. 

Catsup,  Tomato  Soy  (an  old 

Southern  recipe).  — Take  a bushel 
of  ripe  tomatoes ; cut  them  in  slices 
and  skin ; sprinkle  the  bottom  of  a 
large  tub  with  salt,  put  in  a layer  of 
tomatoes,  more  salt  and  tomatoes, 
until  all  are  in  the  tub ; cover  the  top 
with  sliced  onions,  let  stand  three 
days,  put  into  a large  kettle,  and  boil 
slowly  for  eight  hours ; stir  occasion- 


250 


Catsup,  Walnut 


PICKLES,  ETC 


Chow-chow 


ally  to  prevent  the  tomatoes  sticking ; 
take  off  the  fire  and  set  to  cool  over- 
night; press  through  a coarse  wire 
sieve,  add  I oz.  of  ground  cloves,  two 
of  allspice,  two  of  black  pepper,  four 
pods  of  red  pepper,  and  2 ozs.  of 
ground  mace  and  cinnamon  mixed ; 
let  boil  slowly  for  four  hours.  Let 
cool,  put  into  glass  or  stone  jars,  and 
seal.  This  soy  is  excellent  for  sea- 
soning sauces  and  gravies. 

Catsup,  Walnut.  — Take  the  wal- 
nuts while  soft  enough  to  beat  to  a 
paste,  and  to  every  hundred  thus 
prepared  add  two  quarts  or  a gallon 
of  vinegar  and  a handful  of  salt. 
Let  the  liquor  stand  eight  days  in  a 
stone  jar,  stirring  it  frequently.  Then 
strain  it  into  a saucepan,  boil  it,  and 
skim  it  well ; add  ginger,  horseradish, 
mustard-seed,  a few  cloves  of  garlic, 
and  a little  black  pepper;  let  it  boil 
up  once,  pour  it  into  an  earthen  pan, 
and  when  cold  bottle  it.  The  white 
walnut  is  best,  but  the  black  walnut 
may  be  used. 

Another  way  : — Simmer  a gallon 
of  the  expressed  juice  of  walnuts 
when  they  are  tender,  and  skim  it  well. 
Then  put  in  2 lbs.  of  anchovies,  bones 
and  liquor,  the  same  of  shallots,  I 
oz.  of  cloves,  i oz.  of  mace,  i oz.  of 
pepper,  and  one  clove  of  garlic.  Let 
all  simmer  till  the  shallots  sink ; then 
put  the  liquor  into  a pan  till  cold. 
Bottle,  and  divide  the  spice  equally 
to  each.  Cork  closely,  and  this  cat- 
sup will  keep  for  years.  It  is  not, 
however,  fit  for  use  the  same  season 
that  it  is  made. 

Another  way  : — Take  two  hundred 
walnuts  while  still  tender,  and  beat 
them  up  very  fine  in  a marble  mortar. 
Add  six  handfuls  of  salt,  and  put 
into  a clean  stone  jar,  and  stir  them 
up  three  times  a day  for  a fortnight. 
Strain  through  a cloth,  pressing 
them  very  dry.  Boil  up  the  liquor 
with  mace,  cloves,  grated  nutmeg, 
onion,  and  pepper  to  taste.  Bottle, 
and  cork  tightly,  and  shake  when  used. 

Chilli  Sauce. — Scald,  skin,  and  cut 
up  fifty  ripe  tomatoes ; chop  and  add 


twelve  green  peppers  and  nine  large 
white  onions  with  ]/z  lb.  of  brown 
sugar,  four  table- spoonfuls  of  salt, 
nine  level  tcaspoonfuls  each  of  ground 
cloves,  allspice,  and  ginger,  and  half 
a gallon  of  vinegar.  Boil  gently, 
stirring  and  crushing  all  to  a paste, 
for  at  least  an  hour — and  longer,  if  it 
is  thin  at  that  time — and  then  bottle 
tightly,  covering  the  tops  of  the  bot- 
tles with  sealing-wax. 

Chow-chow. — Cut  up  and  mix  to- 
gether a half-peck  of  green  tomatoes, 
fifteen  onions,  twenty-five  medium- 
sized cucumbers,  and  two  cabbages. 
Put  this  in  layers  in  a crock  with 
layers  of  salt  between,  and  let  it  stand 
overnight.  Then  drain  off  the  brine 
and  throw  it  away,  and  cover  the  pickle 
with  vinegar  and  water,  half  and  half, 
and  let  it  again  stand  overnight.  The 
next  day  drain  off  this  mixture  and 
pour  over  it  a gallon  and  a half  of 
scalding-hot  vinegar  which  has  just 
been  boiled  for  three  minutes  with  a 
pint  of  grated  horseradish,  Yz  lb.  of 
mustard  - seed,  I oz.  of  celery  seed, 
and  a half-cupful  each  of  pepper, 
turmeric,  ground  cinnamon,  and  4 
lbs.  of  sugar.  Let  this  stand  till 
perfectly  cold,  and  then  mix  all 
thoroughly  with  Yz  lb.  of  ground 
mustard  and  a cupful  of  salad  oil, 
and  put  in  jars  at  once.  This  is  an 
excellent  garnish  for  cold  meats. 

Another  way  : — One  dozen  large 
cucumbers,  sliced  ; two  dozen  tiny  little 
cucumbers ; three-quarters  of  a peck 
of  green  tomatoes,  sliced ; one  head 
of  cauliflower,  cut  into  small  sprigs ; 
twelve  large  red  peppers  and  one 
green  one,  sliced,  after  their  seeds 
have  been  extracted  ; a quart  of  small 
white  onions,  peeled ; one  pint  of 
smallest  red  peppers.  Sprinkle  a pint 
and  a half  of  salt  over  the  above- 
mentioned  vegetables,  and  let  them 
stand  so  overnight.  In  the  morning 
drain  them  well ; then  add  1 oz.  of 
mace,  1 oz.  of  white  mustard  - seed, 
/4  oz.  of  cloves,  1 oz.  of  celery  seed, 
I oz.  of  turmeric,  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  ground  mustard,  with  a large 
piece  of  horseradish  cut  up.  Empty 


251 


Chutney,  Indian 


PIES,  ETC 


Pastry 


all  into  a large  preserving-kettle,  cov- 
er well  with  vinegar,  and  boil  half  an 
hour,  or  until  tender. 

Chutney,  Indian. — Boil  together  a 
pint  of  good  vinegar  with  x/z  lb.  of 
sour,  unripe  apples,  peeled,  cored, 
and  quartered.  When  pulped  and 
cool,  add,  first  pounding  them  sepa- 
rately in  a mortar  and  afterwards  to- 
gether, the  following  ingredients  : 4 


ozs.  of  stoned  raisins,  8 ozs.  of  brown 
sugar,  2 ozs.  of  garlic,  and  2 ozs. 
of  mustard-seed ; mix  these  well  with 
2 ozs.  of  powdered  ginger,  the  same 
of  salt,  and  I oz.  of  cayenne.  Put  the 
mixture  into  an  earthenware  jar, 
and  set  the  jar  in  a warm  corner  by 
the  fire  until  next  morning,  when 
the  chutney  may  be  put  into  small 
jars  and  tied  down.  It  will  keep 
good  a year  or  two. 


PIES,  TARTS,  ETC. 


Pastry. — In  making  pastry  the 
flour  should  be  well  sifted,  and  the 
butter  carefully  washed,  so  as  to  free 
it  from  salt.  For  very  rich  crust  1 lb. 
of  butter  to  the  same  quantity  of  flour 
is  the  rule.  No  pie-crust,  no  matter 
how  carefully  prepared  and  nice  the 
ingredients,  will  be  as  light  as  it 
should  be  if  mixed  in  a warm  room. 
As  little  time  should  elapse  between 
mixing  and  baking  the  crust  as  pos- 
sible, and  after  baking  set  it  in  a cool, 
dry  place.  Use  ice-water  for  mixing. 
Mix  the  salt,  flour,  and  water  to- 
gether with  a knife  until  the  dough 
will  adhere,  but  not  stick,  to  the  board. 
Knead  well  until  it  seems  free  from 
lumps,  then  make  a cake  of  it,  and 
just  in  the  middle  put  the  butter,  which 
should  be  in  a round  ball ; bring  the 
dough  up  all  around  it,  and  let  it  cover 
the  butter  on  top,  too;  then  with  the 
rolling-pin  roll  from  you  until  you 
have  a long,  narrow  roll ; take  the  end 
farthest  from  you,  and  lay  it  over  on 
the  roll  about  the  length  of  your  fin- 
ger ; then  take  hold  of  this  fold  and 
make  another,  not  by  turning  it  over 
towards  you,  but  drawing  the  whole 
roll  along  until  it  folds  under  the  same 
length  as  the  one  on  top.  When  it  is 
all  folded  roll  it  out  again,  not  being 
discouraged  if  the  butter  sticks  to  the 
pin  ; scrape  it  off.  Roll  this  way  four 
or  five  times,  or  until  the  paste  seems 
flaky,  and  the  butter  not  in  lumps, 
but  rather  in  layers.  One  great  secret 
is  to  roll  from  you,  never  towards  you. 


and  work  it  gently ; practice  will  give 
just  the  right  touch. 

Some  persons  use  lard  and  butter 
mixed,  others  contend  that  lard  alone 
makes  a richer,  lighter  crust;  others 
prefer  butter  alone.  If  the  oven  be 
too  hot,  the  crust  will  not  rise,  and  if 
not  hot  enough  it  will  be  sodden.  It 
is  always  best  to  try  a small  piece 
before  you  put  in  the  whole.  In  fruit 
pies,  that  are  apt  to  boil  over,  when 
the  bottom  crust  is  in  the  pie -dish, 
and  just  before  you  put  on  the  sec- 
ond, moisten  the  edge  of  the  former 
with  cold  water ; then  pinch  the  edges 
of  the  two  crusts  well  together,  making 
plenty  of  air-holes,  and  there  will  be 
no  further  trouble. 

Plain  pastry,  quite  palatable  (indeed, 
preferred  by  some  to  the  richer  sort), 
is  made  very  much  as  soda  biscuits, 
viz.,  to  two  quarts  of  flour  allow  x/i  lb. 
of  butter  and  lard,  made  up  into  a 
moderately  stiff  dough  with  a pint  of 
sour  cream  or  buttermilk,  in  which  has 
been  dissolved  half  a teaspoonful  of 
carbonate  of  soda ; knead  only  enough 
to  mix  well,  roll  out,  and  with  it  line 
your  pie-plates. 

Puff  Paste.  — One  pound  of  flour 
sifted  three  times,  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  a bowl  of  ice-water,  and  I lb.  of 
best  butter.  These  ingredients  will 
make  a large  quantity  ; but  as  it  keeps 
fresh  in  the  refrigerator,  and  every 
scrap  of  it  can  be  utilized,  there  is  no 
waste,  and  the  material  for  an  entree  or 


2 52 


Apple  Custard  Pie 


PIES,  ETC 


Apple  Pie,  Grated 


a quick  dessert  is  always  on  hand. 
Wash  the  butter  a day  before  it  will  be 
wanted,  and  return  to  the  ice  to  harden. 
In  making  puff  paste,  as  in  mayon- 
naise dressing,  the  secret  of  success 
consists  merely  in  keeping  its  ingredi- 
ents ice  - cold  and  touching  with  the 
fingers  as  little  as  possible.  A mar- 
ble slab  makes  the  best  pastry-board, 
and  the  rolling-pin,  unless  of  glass  or 
of  porcelain,  is  to  be  thoroughly  chilled 
before  using  by  several  hours'  contact 
with  ice.  Mix  the  yolks  and  the  flour, 
with  a scant  cupful  of  ice-water,  into 
a stiff  paste,  using  a metal  spoon 
dipped  occasionally  into  the  ice-water. 
French  pastry-cooks  substitute  a half- 
gill of  brandy  for  one  of  the  yolks  of 
eggs.  Roll  out  the  paste,  and  place 
half  the  butter  in  the  centre ; wash  the 
hands  in  ice-water  to  chill  them,  and 
then  cover  the  butter  with  the  edges  of 
the  paste  in  such  a manner  that  fur- 
ther rolling  will  not  squeeze  it  out  at 
the  sides.  Now  roll  into  a strip  four 
feet  long  and  one  foot  wide ; dot  with 
bits  of  butter,  fold  both  ends  to  meet  in 
the  middle,  fold  once  more  in  the  same 
way,  lay  it  upon  a chilled  platter,  and 
return  to  the  ice  for  an  hour.  This 
process  of  rolling  and  folding  and 
dotting  with  butter  until  all  the  latter 
has  been  used  is  to  be  twice  re- 
peated, allowing  a half-hour  on  ice 
between.  Half  an  hour  after  the 
final  folding  the  paste  is  ready  for 
use. 

For  pies,  cut  a piece  one-fourth  as 
large  as  the  pan,  roll  to  the  size,  grease 
the  pan,  line  with  the  paste,  fill  with  the 
fruit,  cover  with  crossed  strips,  glaze 
with  egg,  and  bake  in  a good  oven. 
For  tarts,  use  about  a third  as  much 
as  of  ordinary  pie-crust,  roll  thin,  line 
the  greased  forms,  prick  with  a fork, 
glaze,  and  bake  a golden  brown. 
When  cold,  fill  with  apple  sauce,  cran- 
berry, or  other  jelly,  marmalade,  or  pre- 
serves drained  of  juice.  For  turnovers, 
roll  out  a piece  of  paste  to  three  times 
its  size,  cut  into  squares  of  four  inches, 
drop  into  each  a spoonful  of  jam  or  of 
apple  sauce  mixed  with  chopped  al- 
monds and  raisins,  fold  over  into  a 
triangle,  press  together  the  edges. 


glaze,  and  bake.  Serve  warm  or  cold, 
sprinkled  with  powdered  sugar. 

Short  Crust  (a  substitute  for  puff 
paste). — When  puff  paste  cannot  be 
had,  pastry  made  according  to  any  of 
the  following  recipes  may  be  used  in- 
stead. It  should  be  made  in  a cool 
place  and  should  be  handled  very 
lightly.  A moderately  heated  oven 
will  be  required  for  baking  it. 

No.  I.  Rub3ozs.of  butter  into  I lb.  of 
flour  till  it  is  as  fine  as  possible ; add  a 
pinch  of  salt  and  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  powdered  loaf  sugar,  and  make  a 
smooth  paste  with  two  eggs  beaten 
up  with  milk  or  cream.  Roll  out  thin. 
No.  2.  Rub  3 ozs.  of  butter  into  i lb. 
of  flour,  add  a pinch  of  salt  and  a table- 
spoonful of  powdered  sugar,  and  beat 
the  whole  to  a smooth  paste  with  a 
quarter  of  a pint  of  boiling  cream. 
No.  3.  Rub  8 ozs.  of  butter  into  1 lb. 
of  flour ; and  add  a pinch  of  salt,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar, 
and  as  much  milk  as  will  make  a firm, 
smooth  paste. 

Apple  Custard  Pie.  — Stew  the  ap- 
ples with  plenty  of  sugar  and  let  them 
cool.  Mix  the  yolks  of  six  eggs 
with  a full  pint  of  the  stewed  apples, 
season  with  nutmeg  and  cinnamon. 
Add  a quart  of  milk  gradually,  stirring 
well,  then  add  the  well-beaten  whites 
of  six  eggs.  This  pie  can  be  made 
with  or  without  top  crust,  or  with  a 
crust  in  lattice. 

Apple  Meringue  Pie.  — Pare  and 

slice  tart  apples,  stew  and  sweeten 
them,  mash  them  smooth,  and  flavor 
with  lemon-juice  and  a little  nutmeg. 
Line  a pie-plate  with  rich  pie-crust,  and 
fill  it  with  the  cooked  apples.  Put  over 
the  top  of  the  apples  a thick  meringue. 
This  pie  is  to  be  eaten  cold. 

Apple  Pie,  Grated.  — One  quart  of 
grated  apples  ; add  to  it  % lb.  of  melted 
butter,  Yz  lb.  of  white  sugar,  cinna- 
mon, or  any  other  spice,  yolks  of  eight 
eggs,  beaten,  then  the  beaten  whites. 
Have  the  pie-dish  lined  with  puff 
paste,  fill  up  with  the  apple  mixture, 
and  bake. 


253 


Apple  Pie,  Sliced 


PIES,  ETC 


Chocolate  Cream  Pie 


Another  way  : — Grate  four  or  five 
tart  apples ; mix  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs  with  half  a cupful  of  granulated 
sugar ; add  a fiat  teaspoon! ul  of  ground 
cinnamon,  some  chopped  raisins,  chop- 
ped almonds,  some  dried  currants,  and 
the  grated  rind  of  a lemon.  Bake  in  a 
quick  oven.  When  done,  spread  with 
a meringue  made  by  beating  the  three 
whites  with  as  many  table-spoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar  until  well  thickened; 
return  to  the  oven  to  brown,  and  serve 
cold. 

Apple  Pie,  Sliced.  — Line  a deep 
pie-plate  with  plain  paste ; pare  and 
cut  in  slices  six  sour  apples;  allow 
one  cupful -of  sugar,  and  quarter  of  a 
grated  nutmeg  mixed  with  it;  fill 
the  pie-plate  with  the  sliced  apples, 
sprinkle  the  sugar  between  the  layers, 
wet  the  edges  of  the  under  crust  with 
cold  water,  lay  on  the  cover,  and 
press  down  securely  so  that  no  juice 
may  escape.  Bake  three-quarters  of 
an  hour,  or  less  if  the  apples  are 
very  tender. 

Apple  Pies  without  Apples. — Put 

ten  large,  square  soda  crackers  in  a 
bowl ; pour  over  them  a quart  of  boil- 
ing water ; let  them  soak  for  an  hour ; 
then  mash  them  up  very  fine ; add  to 
them  the  grated  peel  and  juice  of  four 
lemons,  and  five  teacupfuls  of  brown 
sugar ; put  it  in  pastry  and  bake  like 
any  other  pie. 

Apricot  Pie.  — Pare,  stone,  and 
halve  the  apricots.  Place  them  in  a 
pie-dish,  piling  them  high  in  the 
middle.  Strew  over  them  a little 
sifted  sugar,  and  a few  of  the  kernels 
blanched  and  chopped  small.  Cover 
them  with  a good,  light  crust,  and 
bake  in  a moderate  oven.  Time  to 
bake,  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Apricot-jam  Tarts. — Pare  ripe  apri- 
cots, break  them  in  halves,  and  re- 
move the  stones.  To  every  pound 
of  fruit  allow  a pound  of  finely  pow- 
dered sugar.  Strew  the  sugar  over 
the  fruit,  and  stand  for  twelve  hours. 
Break  the  stones,  blanch  the  kernels. 


and  put  them,  with  the  fruit  and  sugar, 
into  a preserving  - kettle.  Simmer 
gentlj7,  removing  the  apricots  as  they 
are  done,  and  skimming  the  syrup. 
Mash  fruit,  kernels,  and  syrup  to- 
gether, and  put  into  jars  to  cool.  Line 
tart-pans  with  puff  paste,  fill  with  the 
jam,  crossing  the  top  with  strips  of 
paste.  Bake  in  a quick  oven.  Serve 
cold,  sprinkled  with  sugar. 

Banbury  T urnovers.  — Though  to 
call  them  mince  pies  without  mC&t 
would  be  a more  appropriate  name. 
Take  1 lb.  of  sugar  and  Yz  lb.  of  butter 
and  cream  together;  then  lb.  of 
flour,  2 lbs.  of  the  best  currants, 
oz.  of  powdered  allspice,  and  the  same 
of  cinnamon,  and  Vz  lb.  of  candied  or- 
ange and  lemon  peel  are  to  be  added 
generally.  The  puff  paste,  of  which 
the  outside  is  composed,  is  rolled  out 
into  eight -inch  squares,  and  suf- 
ficient of  the  mixture  is  dropped  in 
the  centre  of  each  to  fill  it  well.  Two 
bias  corners  of  the  paste  are  then 
brought  together,  and  afterwards  the 
two  remaining  corners ; when  all  are 
ready,  sift  granulated  sugar  over  them 
and  bake  in  a hot  oven. 

Berry  Pies.  — Instead  of  sifting  a 
little  flour  over  the  fruit  to  absorb  the 
juice,  cracker- crumbs  are  frequently 
substituted. 

Cherry  Pie. — Wash  and  pick  the 
fruit,  and  place  it  in  a pie-dish  lined 
with  a good  rich  paste ; strew  a little 
sugar  over  it,  and  cover  it  with  a 
light  crust.  Bake  in  a quick  oven  for 
about  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Chocolate  Cream  Pie. — One  quart 
of  milk  or  sweet  cream;  quarter  of  a 
cake  of  the  finest  vanilla  chocolate, 
grated ; six  eggs,  yolks  of  all  and 
whites  of  three;  one  pint  of  boiling 
water ; half  a cupful  of  white  sugar ; 
two  coffee-spoonfuls  of  vanilla.  Dis- 
solve the  chocolate  in  a very  little 
milk,  stir  into  the  boiling  water, 
and  boil  three  minutes;  when  nearly 
cold  beat  up  with  this  the  yolks  of 
all  the  eggs  and  the  whites  of  three; 


254 


Cocoanut  Pie 


PIES,  ETC 


Custard  Pie 


stir  this  mixture  into  the  milk,  flavor, 
and  pour  into  shells  of  puff  paste ; 
whip  the  remaining  whites  into 
a stiff  froth  with  powdered  sugar, 
and  when  the  cream  is  set  spread 
this  meringue  over  it,  and  place  for  a 
moment  in  the  oven. 

Cocoanut  Pie. — To  one  and  a half 
pints  of  grated  cocoanut  add  one  pint 
of  new  milk,  two  cupfuls  of  sweet 
cream,  and  four  eggs,  the  yolks  and 
whites  beaten  separately;  two  tea- 
spoonfuls of  melted  butter,  two  crack- 
ers, rolled  fine ; sweeten  to  taste.  A 
very  nice,  plain  mixture  for  this  pie 
is  made  by  making  a blanc-mange  of 
one  quart  of  milk  and  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  corn-starch ; while  hot,  melt  a 
small  piece  of  butter  in  it,  let  it  cool, 
and  add  the  yolks  of  six  eggs;  sugar 
to  taste,  and  add  about  a teacupful 
of  grated  cocoanut,  then  the  beaten 
whites.  Bake  in  a quick  oven  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour. 

A rich  and  very  delicious  cocoanut 
pie-crust  is  made  as  follows  : Mix  one 
part  of  grated  cocoanut  with  two  parts 
of  Graham  flour,  and  ice- water  suf- 
ficient to  make  a stiff  dough;  knead 
five  minutes,  then  add  one  part  of 
boiled  rice  and  mix  thoroughly. 

Cranberry  Pie.  — To  a cupful  of 
cranberries,  cut  up,  add  half  a cup 
ful  of  seeded  raisins,  also  cut  up.  Mix 
them  with  a cupful  of  sugar  and  a 
large  table-spoonful  of  flour,  together 
with  a little  water  and,  if  liked,  a 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence.  Line 
the  dish  with  paste,  pour  in  the  mixt- 
ure, and  cover  the  top  with  bars  of 
paste. 

Cream  Pie. — To  one  pint  of  milk 
put  two  even  table-spoonfuls  of  corn- 
starch, two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar, 
one  egg,  a small  pinch  of  salt,  and 
flour  to  taste,  with  extract  of  lemon 
and  orange  mixed.  Bake  in  a rich 
paste. 

Currant  Pie. — To  one  cupful  of 
mashed  currants  add  one  cupful  of 
sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  water, 


one  table  - spoonful  of  flour,  and  the 
beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Line  a pie- 
plate  with  rich  pie-crust  and  make  a 
little  wall  of  the  crust  around  the  edge. 
Fill  the  plate  with  the  prepared  mixt- 
ure and  bake  in  a moderate  oven. 
Add  a meringue  to  the  top  before  serv- 
ing. 

Currant  Meringue  Pie. — Line  two 
pie-pans  with  a rich  short  crust,  prick 
with  a fork,  and  bake  to  a very  light 
brown.  When  cool,  fill  with  the  fol- 
lowing and  bake  in  a very  slow  oven  : 
Beat  the  whites  of  three  eggs  until 
stiff,  add  gradually  one  cupful  of 
granulated  sugar  and  one  pint  of 
currants. 

Currant  and  Red  - raspberry  Tart. 

— Currants  and  red  raspberries  make  a 
pleasing  combination  of  fruit.  Four 
eggs,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one  quart 
of  fruit,  one-half  cupful  of  flour.  Beat 
the  yolks  and  sugar  until  light,  fold 
in  the  stiff-beaten  whites,  and,  lastly, 
the  fruit  mixed  with  the  flour.  Pour 
the  mixture  into  a deep  pan  lined  with 
plain  pie-paste.  Cover  with  a lattice- 
work  of  pastry  strips.  Bake  in  a mod- 
erate oven  until  the  crust  is  done. 
Sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar.  Serve 
either  warm  or  cold. 

Currant  Tarts. — Line  pie-plates  or 
patty-pans  with  a good  pastry.  Stem 
ripe  currants,  and  fill  the  pans  with 
them,  sugaring  them  plentifully. 
Bake  without  a top  cnist.  If  you  pre- 
fer, you  can  make  a lattice-work  of 
strips  of  paste  over  the  top  of  the  pie. 
Or  you  may  make  your  tarts  in  the 
English  fashion,  with  no  bottom 
crust,  but  with  one  on  top.  In  that 
case,  heap  the  fruit  towards  the  mid- 
dle of  a deep  pie-dish,  lay  a strip  of 
paste  around  the  edge  of  the  dish, 
pinch  this  and  the  edge  of  the  top  crust 
closely  together  to  prevent  the  escape 
of  the  juice,  and  make  a cut  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  crust  to  allow  the  steam  to 
escape. 

Custard  Pie. — Beat  the  yolks  apd 
whites  of  four  eggs  separately.  Add 


255 


Fruit  Pasties 


PIES,  ETC  . Gooseberries  for  Tarts 


the  yolks  to  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
sugar,  beat  light,  and  then  add  one 
quart  of  milk  and  the  frothed  whites 
of  the  eggs.  Line  a pan  with  paste, 
pour  in  the  mixture,  and  bake. 

Another  way  : — Let  three  pints  of 
milk  come  to  a boil,  and  then  stir  in 
two  table  - spoonfuls  of  corn -starch, 
which  has  been  moistened  with  water. 
Let  it  boil  up  and  then  remove  from  the 
fire,  and,  when  cool,  stir  in  six  table- 
spoonfuls of  sugar,  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  almond  essence,  the  yolks  of  four 
eggs  and  the  whites  of  two.  Bake  in 
pan  lined  with  plain  paste,  and  as 
soon  as  done  cover  with  a meringue 
flavored  with  vanilla,  and  serve  at 
once. 

Fruit  Pasties  or  Turnovers. — Boil 
down  fruit  of  any  kind  with  a little 
sugar  and  let  it  get  cold.  Take  I 
lb.  of  puff  paste,  cut  it  into  as  many 
pieces  as  you  require  pasties,  roll  out 
in  a circular  form,  and  put  the  fruit  on 
one  half ; turn  the  other  half  over  on 
the  fruit  and  pinch  the  edge,  which 
should  be  first  wet  with  white  of 
egg.  Raw  fruit  may  be  used,  but  in 
this  case  the  paste  must  be  thicker, 
and  not  quite  so  rich.  Time  for  fruit 
pasties,  twenty  minutes. 

Fruit  Pies. — Apples  and  peaches 
must  be  peeled  and  sliced  thin  and 
sugared ; berries  of  all  kinds  first 
dusted  with  flour  and  then  sugared  ; 
rhubarb  and  preserves  drained  of  most 
of  the  juice ; and  cranberries  cooked 
with  si; gar,  strained,  and  cooled  into 
jelly  before  they  can  be  filled  into 
the  pies.  The  oven  must  be  clear  and 
steady,  but  not  hot  enough  to  bake 
the  crust  before  the  fruit  is  sufficiently 
cooked.  Remove  all  pies  from  the 
pans  while  hot  to  the  dishes  upon 
which  they  are  to  be  served. 

Preserved  fruits  ought  not  to  be 
baked  long ; indeed,  those  that  have 
been  preserved  with  their  full  propor- 
tion of  sugar  require  no  baking.  Bake 
the  crust  in  a tin  shape,  and  add  the 
fruit  afterwards ; or  put  the  fruit  in  a 
small  dish  or  tart-pan,  and  bake  the 
covers  on  a tin,  cut  according  to  taste. 


Fruit  Tart  (English  way). — Spread 
some  puff  paste  over  the  table  with  a 
rolling-pin ; cut  a piece  the  size  of  the 
dish,  and  out  of  the  trimmings  cut 
some  strips ; brush  the  edge  of  the  dish 
with  dorure  (yolks  and  whites  of  eggs, 
beaten  light),  and  stick  the  strips  on  it ; 
then  put  the  fruit  into  the  dish  with 
some  sugar  and  a little  water ; roll  the 
paste  on  the  rolling-pin,  and  lay  it 
over  the  fruit.  Before  you  put  the 
paste  on,  brush  the  strips  with  some 
dorure  to  make  it  stick.  When  you 
have  trimmed  the  dish  all  round,  brush 
some  white  of  egg  or  dorure  over  the 
tart,  and  sift  some  sugar  over  it ; then 
dip  the  paste -brush  into  water  and 
shake  it  over  the  tart.  Bake  it  prop- 
erly, and  serve  up  cold.  Apples,  how- 
ever, are  an  exception,  as  they  are 
better  hot.  When  this  has  been  done, 
take  a small  knife  and  ornament  the 
paste  with  figures  according  to  your 
fancy ; then  put  the  tart  in  the  oven, 
and  if  it  begins  to  have  too  much 
color,  cover  it  with  paper.  When 
done,  spread  over  it  some  fine  sugar 
through  a sieve,  replace  it  in  the  oven 
to  dry  the  sugar,  and  with  a sala- 
mander glaze  the  tart  to  a bright 
color.  You  must  prepare  all  kinds  of 
fruit  in  the  same  way ; use  sometimes 
the  paste  for  tarts,  but  in  that  case  no 
strips  are  absolutely  necessary. 

Gooseberry  Pie. — Line  a two-quart 
pudding  - dish  with  good  pie  - crust, 
rolled  rather  thick.  Stem  three  pints 
of  gooseberries,  wash  and  put  into  the 
crust,  add  a good  pint  of  sugar,  cover 
with  a top  crust,  pinch  the  edges  well 
together,  bake  one  hour  in  a moderate 
oven.  Serve  cold. 

Gooseberries  for  Tarts,  To  Keep. — 

When  the  weather  is  dry,  pick  the 
gooseberries  that  are  full  grown  but  not 
ripe,  remove  the  tops  and  tails,  and  put 
them  into  open-mouthed  bottles ; gen- 
tly cork  them  with  quite  new  corks,  and 
set  them  into  a warm  oven;  let  them 
stand  until  shrunken  a quarter  part ; 
then  take  them  out  of  the  oven  and 
immediately  cork  them  tightly;  cut 
off  the  tops  of  the  corks  and  rosin 


256 


Gooseberry  Tart 


PIES,  ETC. 


Lemon  Pie 


them  tightly  down.  Set  in  a dry 
place. 

Gooseberry  Tart  (English  recipe). 
— Pick  off  the  tops  and  stalks  of  the 
gooseberries.  Put  them  into  a pie- 
dish,  pile  them  high  in  the  centre, 
strew  a little  sugar  over  them,  and 
add  a table-spoonful  of  water.  Line 
the  edge  of  the  dish  with  a good  crust, 
put  on  the  cover,  and  bake  in  a brisk 
oven.  Strew  a little  powdered  sugar 
over  before  sending  the  tart  to  table. 
A little  cream  or  custard  is  a great  im- 
provement to  this  dish.  An  ample 
allowance  of  sugar  is  required  for 
gooseberries,  especially  when  they  are 
partially  ripe.  Two  pints  and  a half 
of  gooseberries  will  make  a pie  for 
four  or  five  persons.  Time  to  bake, 
three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Another  way  : — Pick  off  all  the 
stalks  and  little  blossoms,  wash  the 
berries,  and  put  them  on  to  stew.  A 
very  little  water  may  be  put  into  the 
saucepan  to  prevent  the  fruit  burn- 
ing. Add  % lb.  of  sugar  for  each  quart 
of  gooseberries  as  soon  as  the  berries 
are  broken,  and  let  them  cook  a little 
longer.  Add  more  water,  and  strain ; 
return  to  the  fire  and  boil  fifteen  min- 
utes longer.  Line  pie  - plates  with 
paste,  fill  with  the  gooseberries,  and 
cross  with  strips  of  paste. 

Gooseberry  T urnovers.  — Make  a 
good,  light  crust.  Roll  it  out  two  or 
three  times,  then  leave  it  a quarter  of 
an  inch  in  thickness.  Stamp  it  out 
in  rounds  with  a cup,  plate,  or  small 
basin,  and  lay  a few  gooseberries, 
which  have  been  stewed  with  sugar, 
on  one-half  of  each  round.  Turn  the 
other  half  over  the  fruit,  fasten  the 
edges  securely,  and  bake  on  buttered 
tins  in  a moderate  oven.  Serve  on 
a napkin,  with  sifted  sugar.  Time, 
about  a quarter  of  an  hour  to  bake. 

Graham  Tarts. — Mix  Graham  flour 
plentifully  with  grated  cocoanut ; pour 
into  the  mixture  ice -water  enough 
to  make  a stiff  dough ; knead  it  hard, 
roll  very  thin,  and  cut  into  round  cakes 
two  or  three  inches  in  diameter ; cutout 
*7 


the  centre  of  a part  of  them,  leaving 
a narrow  rim ; put  three  layers  of  these 
rims  on  one  centre  or  round  piece, 
wetting  them  so  as  to  make  them 
unite  ; prick  the  centre  with  a fork 
and  bake  in  a quick  oven,  yet  not  so 
as  to  brown  them.  They  should  be 
crisp  and  tender  when  done.  When 
wanted  for  use  they  have  only  to  be 
filled  with  some  kind  of  fruit  sauce, 
as  stewed  English  currants,  pine- 
apple, marmalade,  etc. 

Jam  Tart,  Open. — Roll  out  the 

pastry  to  the  thickness  of  a quarter 
of  an  inch.  Butter  an  ornamented 
tart-pan  and  line  it  with  the  pastry. 
Trim  the  edges  neatly,  and  prick  a 
few  holes  in  the  bottom  with  a fork. 
Bake  in  a moderate  oven  until  lightly 
browned,  then  take  the  tart  out, 
let  it  cool  a little,  spread  the  jam  on 
it,  and  ornament  the  top  with  a few 
leaves  or  stars  of  pastry  which  have 
been  baked  separately.  Time,  about 
half  an  hour  to  bake. 

Jam  Tarts. — Butter  a dozen  patty- 
pans, and  line  them  with  pastry 
rolled  out  to  a quarter  of  an  inch  in 
thickness.  Put  them  into  a quick 
oven,  and  when  nearly  baked  take 
them  out  and  put  a little  jam  in  the 
centre  of  each,  then  return  them  to 
the  oven  and  finish  baking.  An 
ornament  already  baked  should  be 
placed  upon  each,  or  a little  whipped 
cream.  Time,  a few  minutes  to  bake. 

J elly  - custard  T artlets.  — Dissolve 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  strawberry  or 
red- currant  jelly  over  the  fire.  Let 
it  get  quite  cool,  then  mix  with  it 
gradually  three  well  - beaten  . eggs. 
Three  parts  fill  some  tartlet  tins, 
lined  with  puff  paste,  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven  for  ten  minutes. 

Lemon  Pie. — For  one  crust  take 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  sifted  flour, 
a little  salt,  and  one  table-spoonful  of 
lard  chopped  with  the  flour;  add  a 
little  water  at  a time  until  it  will  stick 
together;  put  on  a floured  board  and 
roll  out.  Line  a pie-plate  with  the 


257 


Lemon  Tarts 


PIES,  ETC. 


Mince  Pies 


paste  and  bake  in  a quick  oven. 
Prick  the  crust  with  a fork  to  prevent 
its  rising  in  the  centre.  Put  one 
cupful  of  sugar  in  a double  boiler  or 
saucepan,  add  a salt-spoonful  of  salt, 
one  lemon,  grated  (large),  the  well- 
beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  one  round- 
ed table-spoonful  of  corn-starch  dis- 
solved in  a little  cold  water.  Mix 
well,  then  pour  into  it  one  cupful  of 
boiling  water;  cook  at  once  until  it 
thickens,  which  will  usually  be  when 
it  begins  to  boil,  as  continued  boiling 
thins  instead  of  thickening  it.  When 
the  mixture  begins  to  cool,  turn  into 
the  crust ; pile  over  it  the  white  of  the 
egg,  beaten  to  a stiff  froth,  to  which 
has  been  added  a little  powdered 
sugar.  Set  in  oven  and  color  a light 
brown. 

Another  way : — The  rinds  of  two 
large,  fresh  lemons,  grated  on  sugar 
or  boiled  and  beaten  in  a mortar;  Y2 
lb.  of  sugar ; the  juice  of  a large  lemon, 
Yz  lb.  of  butter,  ten  eggs  (half  the 
whites  left  out).  Beat  all  well  to- 
gether, and,  after  lining  your  dish  or 
plates  with  puff  paste,  bake.  Sift 
over  the  top  finely  powdered  sugar 
just  before  you  send  to  table. 

Lemon  Tarts. — Line  small  pate- 
pans  with  rich  pastry,  and  fill  with  a 
mixture  made  according  to  the  fol- 
lowing recipe  : Rub  a cupful  of  but- 
ter and  two  cupfuls  of  sugar  to  a 
smooth  cream;  stir  in  the  yolks  of 
six  eggs,  beaten  light,  the  grated  rind 
and  juice  of  a large  lemon,  a dash  of 
nutmeg,  a gill  of  brandy,  and,  last 
of  all,  the  stiffened  whites  of  the  six 
eggs.  Beat  this  mixture  for  a minute 
before  pouring  it  into  the  pastry- 
shells.  Bake  in  a quick  oven.  Eat 
cold. 

Lemon  Turnovers. — Rub  I oz.  of 

loaf  sugar  upon  the  rind  of  a lemon. 
Crush  it,  and  dissolve  it  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  milk.  Add  three  dessert- 
spoonfuls of  flour,  2 ozs.  of  clarified 
butter,  and  two  well  - beaten  eggs. 
Stir  all  over  the  fire  for  a minute. 
Take  i lb.  of  good  pastry ; divide  it 
into  six  or  eight  pieces,  and  roll  each 


piece  out  to  a round  shape,  about  the 
size  of  a saucer.  Spread  a little  of 
the  mixture  on  one  half  of  the  round, 
fold  the  other  half  over,  fasten  the 
edges  securely,  and  bake  on  a but- 
tered tin  in  a moderate  oven.  Before 
serving,  sift  a little  sugar  over  the 
turnovers.  Time  to  bake,  twenty 
minutes. 

Marlboro  Tarts. — Mix  thoroughly 
two  cupfuls  of  grated  tart  apple, 
one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  sugar, 
two  well  - beaten  eggs,  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  melted  butter,  the  grated 
rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon,  and  one 
cupful  of  thin  cream.  Line  patty- 
tins  with  rich  pastry,  fill  with  the 
mixture,  put  narrow  strips  of  notched 
paste  across  the  top,  and  bake  quickly. 

Mince-meat,  Lemon. — Three  lem- 
ons, five  tart  apples,  Y2  lb.  of  suet,  I 
lb.  of  currants,  x/2  lb-  of  brown  sugar, 
I oz.  of  candied  citron,  I oz.  of  can- 
died lemon,  one-half  a nutmeg,  grated, 
one  small  salt-spoonful  of  powdered 
mace,  one  pinch  of  salt.  Put  the 
thin,  yellow  (not  the  white)  rind  into 
a saucepan  with  a little  water,  and 
when  it  becomes  very  tender  take  it 
out  and  mash  it  into  a paste.  Pare, 
core,  and  mince  the  apples,  shred  the 
suet  finely,  mince  the  candied  citron 
and  lemon,  and  squeeze  and  strain 
the  juice  of  the  three  lemons.  Mix 
all  together,  adding  the  paste  of  the 
lemon-rind,  the  sugar,  the  powdered 
spice,  and  the  pinch  of  salt.  Mix 
all  the  ingredients  thoroughly,  cover 
the  mince-meat  tightly  in  a jar,  and 
allow  it  to  stand  for  a week  or  ten 
days.  Just  before  the  mince-meat 
is  to  be  made  into  pies,  add  two  or 
three  macaroons,  crushed  and  pow- 
dered. 

Mince  Pies. — Take  i lb.  of  the  lean 
of  nice,  tender  beef  ; boil  it  thoroughly. 
When  cold — and  there  is  no  objection 
to  letting  it  stand  over  a few  days — 
grate  it  up,  when  it  should  furnish 
about  one  pint  of  mince.  Add  one 
pint  raisins,  seeded  and  chopped; 
one  pint  of  sugar  (brown  or  white), 


Mince  Pies 


PIES,  ETC.  Molasses  Layer  Tarts 


one  pint  of  imported  dried  currants, 
washed  clean ; one  pint  of  finely 
chopped  pippin  apples,  and  the  same 
quantity  of  fresh  beef  suet ; half  a pint 
of  preserved  citron,  cut  up  very  small ; 
a teaspoonful  of  salt,  a salt-spoonful 
of  black  pepper,  a dessert  - spoonful 
of  mixed  cinnamon,  mace,  cloves, 
and  nutmeg,  measured  after  they 
have  been  beaten  up  together  in  a 
mortar ; a pint  of  wine,  a pint  of 
sweet  cider,  and  a gill  of  brandy. 
Stir  the  ingredients  together  until 
well  combined,  and  use  immediately, 
if  you  choose.  If  kept  in  a clean 
stone  jar  with  a closely  fitting  cover, 
good  mince -meat  will  keep  until 
spring,  only  taking  care,  if  it  becomes 
too  dry  by  the  evaporation  of  the 
liquors,  to  add  more  wine  or  brandy 
until  it  is  sufficiently  moist.  Mince 
pies  should  always  be  brought  to 
table  piping  hot,  and,  of  course,  de- 
pend greatly  for  their  excellence  upon 
the  pastry  in  which  they  are  served. 

Another  way  (Maryland  recipe)  : — 
Four  pounds  of  lean  beef,  one  quart 
of  chopped  suet,  four  quarts  of  chop- 
ped apples,  one  quart  of  stoned  rai- 
sins, a scant  quart  of  sugar,  one  pint 
of  currants,  about  I lb.  of  citron,  a 
pint  of  molasses,  three  table -spoon- 
fuls of  ground  mace,  the  same  of  cin- 
namon, two  of  allspice,  one  and  a 
half  table-spoonfuls  of  cloves,  four 
grated  nutmegs,  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  salt,  the  juice  and  rind  of  three 
lemons,  the  same  of  three  sour  or- 
anges, some  candied  orange  and 
lemon  peel,  one  pint  of  orange  wine, 
one  quart  of  California  peach  or 
grape  brandy.  Chop  the  meat  in  a 
meat -cutter  and  mix  thoroughly. 
Do  not  cook  at  all,  except  the  beef 
by  itself,  and  before  chopping.  Add, 
if  you  have  it  (for  it  is  a great  im- 
provement), some  syrup  from  sweet 
pickles,  and  cider,  if  you  choose.  If 
not  moist  enough,  add,  to  your  taste, 
more  wine  and  brandy,  and,  if  it 
will  bear  it,  more  lemon-juice.  One 
must  use  one's  own  taste  and  judg- 
ment in  this  recipe,  as  sometimes  it 
needs  more  moistening  than  at  other 
times. 


Mince  Pies,  English. — One  pound 
of  raisins,  and  I lb.  each  of  currants, 
suet,  apples,  and  moist  sugar;  rind 
of  two  lemons,  chopped  fine,  and  the 
juice  of  both;  a glass  of  brandy,  % 
lb.  of  mixed  peels,  a teaspoonful  of 
mixed  spices.  Line  patty-pans  with 
very  light  paste,  fill  with  the  mince- 
meat, and  cover  with  the  paste. 

Mock  - cherry  Pie.  — Measure  two 
cupfuls  of  cranberries,  then  cut  in 
half  and  soak  half  an  hour  in  cold 
water  to  remove  the  seeds.  Mix 
one  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch  with 
a little  cold  water,  then  stir  it  into 
one  cupful  of  boiling  water ; when 
thick,  remove  from  the  fire  and  add 
one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  pinch  of 
salt,  the  cranberries,  and  one  cupful 
of  raisins,  seeded ; one  cupful  of  sugar, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla  ; pour  into 
a pastry-lined  tin,  place  crust  over  top, 
and  bake  until  done. 

Mock  Mince-meat  Pies. — To  pre- 
pare it,  roll  fine  three  soda-crackers, 
and  mix  with  them  a half-cupful  of 
brown  sugar,  and  the  same  quantity 
of  melted  butter,  molasses,  and  sour 
cider.  Add  to  them  one  egg,  well- 
beaten;  one  cupful  of  raisins,  seeded 
and  chopped ; one-half  cupful  of  cur- 
rants, and  one  cupful  of  water.  Sea- 
son with  one  teaspoonful  each  of 
ground  cinnamon  and  allspice,  one- 
half  teaspoonful  of  cloves,  salt,  black 
pepper,  and  nutmeg,  and  a gener- 
ous table-spoonful  of  brandy.  Bake 
with  two  crusts. 

Molasses  Layer  Tarts. — Sift  2 lbs. 
of  flour  into  a bowl,  melt  10  ozs.  of 
lard  and  heat  boiling  hot,  adding  to 
it  a pinch  of  salt;  stir  the  hot  lard 
into  the  flour  by  pouring  it  into  a 
hole  in  the  centre ; mix  very  thor- 
oughly. If  the  dough  should  be 
too  stiff,  soften  with  a little  hot  water. 
Remove  from  the  bowl  and  set  aside 
to  cool.  When  it  gets  lukewarm, 
roll  out  as  thin  as  possible  and  cut 
with  a round  biscuit-cutter.  Bake 
in  a hot  oven  to  a delicate  brown. 
Put  together  three  circles  when  baked. 


Columbia  2Phblic  Lihtxsty 
Columbia,  Mo. 


Napoleons 


PIES,  ETC 


Plum  Pie 


with  the  following  filling  between 
them,  and  cover  with  boiled  icing  or 
not,  according  to  taste.  To  prepare 
the  filling  put  one-half  pint  of  molasses 
and  one  wineglassful  of  water  on  the 
fire ; when  it  boils,  add  4 ozs.  of  pow- 
dered bread-crumbs  (which  should 
be  stale)  in  order  to  thicken  it;  boil 
until  the  bottom  of  the  pan  can  be 
seen  when  stirring ; add  Y/z  oz.  of 
fresh  orange-peel,  having  first  dried 
it  in  the  oven  and  powdered  it ; and, 
just  before  removing  from  the  fire,  add 
and  mix  in  4 ozs.  of  roasted  peanuts, 
ground  to  a paste. 

Napoleons. — Roll  puff  paste  very 
thin,  line  square  or  oblong  layer 
pans,  prick  with  a fork,  glaze,  and 
bake.  Remove  while  hot  to  a clean 
pastry-board ; cut  into  even  pieces 
three  inches  long  by  one  and  a half 
wide,  using  a sharp  knife.  Each 
Napoleon  is  formed  by  placing  three 
of  these  pieces  one  over  the  other; 
the  lowest  layer  is  spread  with  jelly, 
the  next  with  whipped  cream  sweet- 
ened and  flavored  with  vanilla,  and 
the  top  one  with  plain  or  chocolate 
icing. 

Orange  Pie.  — Line  the  pie  - dish 
with  a paste  rolled  very  thin  and  set 
aside  in  a cool  place.  Beat  one 
teacupful  of  sugar,  the  rind  and 
juice  of  one  orange,  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  and  one  table -spoonful  of  flour 
and  a pinch  of  salt;  then  beat  the 
whites  to  a stiff  froth  and  stir  into  the 
sugar  and  other  ingredients  with  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  milk.  Fill  the  pan 
with  this  mixture  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  forty  - five  minutes. 
Thorough  beating  of  the  mixture  and 
slow  baking  are  absolutely  necessary 
to  success.  Before  pouring  in  the 
mixture  brush  the  crust  of  the  pie 
with  the  white  of  egg.  As  soon  as 
done  cover  the  top  with  a meringue. 

Peach  Meringue  Pie. — Select  a pie- 
plate  that  is  not  too  deep,  and,  after 
arranging  a lower  crust,  fill  with 
peaches  halved,  stoned,  and  pared; 
sprinkle  sugar  over  them,  and  bake 


until  done.  Canned  peaches  will 
answer  as  well  as  fresh  ones  if  some 
of  the  syrup  from  the  can  and  a small 
quantity  of  sugar  are  added.  When 
cool,  spread  over  it  the  whites  of  two 
eggs,  beaten  very  light,  and  flavor 
with  rose-water  or  vanilla.  Sprinkle 
over  the  top  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
sand  sugar,  and  let  it  brown  in  the 
oven  a few  minutes. 

Peach  T art. — Peel  small  or  medium- 
sized peaches  ; fill  a deep  pie  - plate 
with  them,  heaping  them  towards 
the  centre  of  the  dish,  and  sprinkling 
them  liberally  with  sugar.  Cover 
with  a top  crust,  and  bake.  Sat 
while  warm. 

Pear  Tart. — If  mellow  pears  are 
used  they  will  not  require  to  be  stewed 
before  the  pastry  is  put  over  them,  but 
if  the  ordinary  baking  pears  are  made 
use  of  they  must  be  prepared  as 
follows  : Take  six  or  eight  large 

pears;  pare  them  thinly,  core  and 
quarter  them,  and  put  them  into 
a stewpan  with  % lb.  of  moist  sug- 
ar, two  cloves,  a dessert-spoonful  of 
strained  lemon-juice,  and  a quarter 
of  a pint  of  water.  Let  them  simmer 
gently  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour, 
then  turn  them  into  the  dish  pre- 
pared for  them.  When  the  fruit  is 
cold,  moisten  the  edge  of  the  dish 
and  line  it  with  pastry,  wet  the  band, 
put  the  cover  on,  press  it  down  all 
round  with  the  finger  and  thumb,  trim 
the  edge,  and  mark  it  with  the  back 
of  a knife.  Ornament  the  top  by 
placing  on  it  leaves  or  flowers  stamp- 
ed out  with  the  pastry-cutter.  Bake 
in  a good  oven.  About  ten  minutes 
before  the  tart  is  done  enough,  draw 
it  out,  sprinkle  over  it  white  of  egg 
mixed  with  a little  cold  water,  sift 
powdered  sugar  thickly  over  it,  and 
put  it  back  in  the  oven  to  finish 
baking.  Time  to  bake,  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour. 

Plum  Pie. — Either  fresh  or  canned 
fruit  can  be  used.  If  the  latter,  the 
plums  should  not  have  been  entirely 
ripe  when  bottled.  In  the  centre  of  a 


260 


Plum  Tart 


PIES,  ETC 


Quince  Pie 


deep,  earthen  pie -dish  insert  a tea- 
cup, and  fill  the  dish  with  the  fruit — 
if  fresh,  adding  about  the  quantity 
of  sugar  to  make  them  sweet  enough 
and  a very  small  quantity  of  molasses. 
Moisten  the  edge  of  the  dish  with 
cold  water,  and  place  around  the  edge 
a narrow  strip  of  the  pie-crust,  which 
must  not  be  too  rich ; this  strip  of 
crust  must  now  be  moistened  with 
water  or  the  white  of  egg  to  prevent 
the  juice  escaping.  Place  the  upper 
crust  on,  folding  it  in  the  middle  so 
as  to  allow  it  to  rise  when  the  fruit 
expands.  Prick  holes  in  it  with  a 
fork  to  let  out  the  steam.  Bake  about 
half  or  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Plum  Tart. — Select  blue  plums 
or  ripe  greengages ; stem  and  stone 
them,  and  fill  with  them  a deep  pie- 
plate,  or,  better  still,  a shallow  pud- 
ding-dish ; strew  with  sugar ; cover 
with  an  upper  crust,  and,  after  cutting 
several  slits  in  the  pastry  to  allow 
the  steam  to  escape,  bake  in  a moder- 
ate oven.  When  ready  to  serve  lift 
the  crust,  lay  it  upside  down  on  a 
large  plate,  turn  the  plums  out  upon 
the  paste,  and  smother  all  with  whip- 
ped cream. 

Another  way  (English  recipe)  : — 
Line  the  edge  of  a tart -dish  with 
puff  paste  or  with  short  crust.  Fill 
the  dish  with  plums,  and  sprinkle 
a little  moist  sugar  over  them.  The 
quantity  of  sugar  required  will  de- 
pend upon  the  quality  of  the  plums. 
Cover  the  dish  with  pastry,  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven,  and  serve  the  tart 
hot  or  cold.  The  appearance  of  the 
tart  will  be  improved  if  it  is  glazed. 
To  do  this,  take  it  from  the  oven 
before  it  is  quite  done  enough.  Brush 
it  over  with  white  of  egg  which  has 
been  beaten  to  a froth,  and  cover 
with  finely  sifted  sugar.  Sprinkle  a 
few  drops  of  water  over  it,  and  return 
it  to  the  oven  to  set  the  glaze.  Or, 
before  putting  it  in  the  oven,  brush 
it  quickly  with  cold  water  and  sprinkle 
white  sugar  upon  it. 

Pumpkin  Pie.  — Cut  the  pumpkin 
into  thin  slices,  and  boil  until  tender 


in  as  little  water  as  possible  ; watch 
carefully  that  it  does  not  scorch ; 
drain  off  all  the  water.  Mash,  and 
rub  through  a sieve,  adding,  while 
warm,  a small  piece  of  butter.  To 
every  quart  of  the  pumpkin,  after 
mashing,  add  one  quart  of  new  milk 
and  four  eggs,  the  yolks  and  whites 
beaten  separately ; white  sugar  to 
taste,  and  cinnamon  and  nutmeg  as 
desired  ; a very  little  brandy  is  a great 
improvement.  The  oven  in  which 
they  are  baked  must  be  hot.  or  they 
will  not  brown.  It  is  as  well  to  heat 
the  batter  scalding  hot  before  pouring 
into  the  pie-dishes. 

Another  way  : —One  quart  of  pump- 
kin after  it  is  stewed  and  mashed  fine 
through  a sieve,  one  pint  of  rich  cream, 
six  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  beef 
suet,  or  % lb.  of  butter,  and  eight 
table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  four  eggs, 
a wineglassful  of  wine  and  half  that 
quantity  of  brandy,  half  a nutmeg, 
and  a dessert-spoonful  of  ground  gin- 
ger. Line  pie-plates  with  pastry  roll- 
ed thin  at  bottom,  and  ornament  the 
top  with  twisted  strips  laid  crosswdse. 

Another  way  (New  England  reci- 
pe) : — Peel  and  slice  the  pumpkin, 
cover  with  water,  and  stew  for  six 
hours.  Then  strain  through  a sieve. 
To  three  cupfuls  of  the  mash  thus 
obtained  add  one  teaspoonful  of  cin- 
namon, one-fourth  of  a teaspoonful 
of  grated  nutmeg,  one-half  a teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  a generous  half-cupful 
of  sugar.  To  the  whole  add  one  and 
one-half  cupfuls  of  scalded  milk,  and, 
when  cool,  add  two  well-beaten  eggs 
and  bake  a good  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  This  is  for  one  pie.  To  make 
the  crust  take  a scant  one-half  cupful 
of  butter,  three  table  - spoonfuls  of 
lard,  one-half  a teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one-half  a teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and 
two  and  a half  cupfuls  of  flour.  Chop 
the  whole  in  a tray  and  add  a little 
water.  Apply  the  rolling-pin. 

Quince  Pie. — Line  the  edges  of  a 
pie-dish  with  a short  paste.  Fill  the 
dish  with  quinces  and  apples  pared, 
cored,  and  quartered,  sprinkle  a 
little  sugar  on  the  top,  and  add  a 


261 


Quince  Tart 


PIES,  ETC 


Rhubarb  Tart 


pinch  of  grated  lemon-peel.  Moisten 
the  edges,  cover  the  dish  with  pastry, 
and  bake  in  a moderate  oven.  Sift 
a little  powdered  sugar  over  the  pie 
before  sending  it  to  table.  Time  to 
bake,  according  to  size. 

Quince  Tart. — Put  I lb.  of  sugar 
into  a pan,  pour  over  it  a pint  of 
water,  and  boil  the  sugar  to  a syrup. 
Slice  I lb.  of  quinces  into  it,  and  let 
all  boil  till  it  becomes  a marmalade, 
stirring  all  the  time.  Next  take  6 
ozs.  of  chopped  almonds,  2 ozs.  of 
citron,  the  peel  of  two  lemons  cut 
very  thin,  or  grated,  together  with 
the  juice  of  the  lemons.  Let  all  boil 
up;  cover  a baking-plate  with  wafer- 
paper,  pour  it  over,  and  make  it 
smooth.  When  the  tart  is  baked, 
beat  up  the  juice  of  two  lemons  with 
pounded  sugar  till  it  is  white,  like 
ice ; cover  the  tart  with  it  and  let  it 
dry  in  a cool  oven. 

Raspberry  Pie  with  Cream. — Bake 
till  the  pastry  is  done  enough.  Take 
it  out  of  the  oven,  gently  lift  up  the 
cover,  and  pour  over  the  fruit  a rich 
custard  made  with  half  a pint  of 
cream  which  has  been  beaten  up 
with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Lay 
the  cover  again  on  the  dish  and  re- 
turn it  to  the  oven  for  five  minutes. 
Sift  powdered  sugar  over  the  top  and 
serve  hot  or  cold.  Time  to  bake, 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  for  a mod- 
erate-sized tart. 

Raspberry  Tart.— Fill  a pie-dish 
with  picked  raspberries,  or,  if  pre- 
ferred, with  equal  portions  of  rasp- 
berries and  red  currants.  Line  the 
edges  of  the  dish  with  pastry,  strew 
sugar  over  the  top,  and  cover  the  fruit 
with  pastry  rolled  out  to  the  thick- 
ness of  a quarter  of  an  inch.  Orna- 
ment the  edges  and  bake  the  tart 
till  the  pastry  is  done  enough.  When 
cold,  sift  powdered  sugar  over  the  top 
and  serve. 

Rhubarb  Pie. —Peel  the  rhubarb, 
and  if  it  is  very  large  divide  it  into 
two  or  three  strips,  and  then  into 


short  lengths.  Fill  the  dish  as  full 
as  it  will  hold,  sprinkle  some  sugar 
over  it,  add  a small  pinch  of  salt,  and, 
if  liked,  mix  with  the  fruit  a flavor- 
ing of  grated  lemon-peel  and  ground 
ginger,  or  a little  nutmeg,  grated. 
Line  the  edges  of  the  dish  with  pastry, 
moisten  these  with  water,  and  lay 
a cover  of  pastry  over  all.  Press 
the  edges  closely  together  and  orna- 
ment them,  then  sprinkle  a spoonful 
or  two  of  cold  water  over  the  pie  and 
dredge  a little  white  sugar  upon  it ; 
bake  the  pie  in  a well-heated  oven 
until  the  pastry  loosens  from  the 
dish.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold.  Time 
to  bake,  half  an  hour  to  one  hour, 
according  to  size. 

Another  way  : — Chop  very  thin 
enough  rhubarb  to  make  a good  pint. 
Mix  together  one  and  a half  cupfuls 
of  sugar,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  flour, 
two  beaten  eggs,  and  a slight  grating 
of  lemon-peel.  Stir  this  into  the  cut 
rhubarb.  Line  pie -plates  with  rich 
pie -crust  and  fill  with  the  rhubarb 
mixture.  Cover  with  an  upper  crust. 
Bake  the  pies  in  a moderately  quick 
oven  at  first  and  then  reduce  the  heat. 

Rhubarb  Tart.  — Cut  the  large 
stalks  from  the  leaves,  strip  off  the 
skin,  and  divide  the  fruit  into  pieces 
half  an  inch  long.  With  a pint  of 
these  pieces  put  half  a teacupful  of 
water,  half  a teacupful  of  brown 
sugar,  a small  pinch  of  salt,  and  a 
quarter  of  a nutmeg,  grated.  Stew 
the  fruit  gently  until  it  is  quite  soft, 
then  beat  it  with  a wooden  spoon 
until  it  is  smooth.  Line  some  small 
dishes,  or  tartlet-pans,  with  pastry, 
and  spread  on  this  a layer  of  the 
stewed  fruit  a little  more  than  a quar- 
ter of  an  inch  deep.  Roll  out  some 
pastry,  brush  it  over  with  yolk  of  egg 
beaten  up  with  a table- spoonful  of 
milk,  and  cut  it  into  strips  a quarter 
of  an  inch  wide.  Lay  these  across 
the  tart.  Lay  a band  of  pastry 
round  the  edge  of  the  dish,  trim  it 
evenly,  and  bake  the  tart  in  a well- 
heated  oven.  When  the  pastry  loos- 
ens from  the  dish,  it  is  done  enough. 
Time  to  bake,  half  an  hour  or  more. 


262 


Rhubarb  Turnovers 


PIES,  ETC. 


Pillau,  East  Indian 


Rhubarb  Turnovers. — Make  a little 
good  pastry  and  roll  it  out  to  the 
thickness  of  a quarter  of  an  inch. 
Stamp  it  out  in  rounds  from  four  to 
six  inches  in  diameter,  and  lay  upon 
one-half  of  the  pastry  a little  young 
rhubarb,  cut  small,  or  a little  stewed 
rhubarb.  Add  sugar  to  taste  and 
sprinkle  a little  powdered  ginger  over 
the  fruit.  Turn  the  pastry  over, 
pinch  the  edges  closely  together,  and 
brush  the  turnovers  with  white  of 
egg.  Sprinkle  a little  powdered  white 
sugar  over  them  and  bake  on  tins  in 
a brisk  oven.  Time  to  bake,  about 
twenty  minutes. 

Rice  Tart. — Wash  a small  tea- 
cupful of  rice  and  simmer  it  with  a 
quart  of  milk  until  it  is  tender.  Beat 
it  well,  and  mix  with  it  a pinch  of 
salt,  a little  sugar,  a flavoring  of 
nutmeg,  cinnamon,  or  lemon,  and 
three  eggs.  Line  a pie -dish  with 
good  pastry,  spread  the  rice  upon  it, 
and  bake  in  a quick  oven.  Before 
serving,  sprinkle  the  surface  with  sift- 
ed sugar.  Time  to  bake,  half  an  hour. 

Squash  Pies. — A quart  of  squash, 
a quart  of  milk,  three  eggs,  a tea- 
spoonful of  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 


ginger,  one  of  cinnamon,  butter  the 
size  of  a nutmeg,  one  cupful  of  sugar, 
and  a small  teaspoonful  of  salt.  This 
will  make  two  good-sized  pies. 

Sweet-potato  Pie. — Allow  one  large 
potato  to  every  pie.  Boil  until  done  ; 
remove  the  skin,  mash  thoroughly, 
add  a piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  and  enough  milk  to  make 
it  run  through  the  colander  without 
much  difficulty.  When  cold,  add 
yolks  of  two  eggs  well  beaten,  sugar 
to  taste,  a little  cinnamon  and  nut- 
meg, brandy  to  suit,  and  the  beaten 
whites  of  the  eggs.  Line  a pie-dish 
with  paste,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and 
bake  about  half  an  hour. 

Tomatoes  for  Pies. — In  the  autumn 
take  the  large  sort  that  will  not  ripen 
before  frost,  pare  them,  and  to  every 
8 lbs.  allow  three  of  sugar  and  half  a 
pint  of  molasses.  Boil  slowly  three 
or  four  hours.  Put  away  in  jars. 
These  make  an  excellent  pie  in  winter. 
When  you  use  them,  make  a bottom 
crust,  fill  the  pie-dish  with  the  fruit, 
with  a few  slices  of  lemon  on  top ; 
and  if  the  fruit  should  be  too  thick, 
pour  on  a little  water;  then  put  on 
the  top  crust. 


Pies  m 0^^ 

See  Beef,  Mutton,  Pork,  Veal. 

Pies  of  Game.  See  Game. 

Pig  Barbecue.  See  Pork. 

Pigs’  Feet,  Boned.  See  Pork. 

Pigeons. — The  following  recipes  will 
be  found  under  their  respective  head- 
ings as  indicated  : 

Pigeons  en  Matelote.  See  Game. 

Vol-au-vent  of. 

..  with  Green  Pease. 

Pillau,  East  Indian.  — Three  on- 
ions, four  or  five  cloves,  a small  piece 
of  cinnamon,  % lb.  of  butter,  34  lb.  of 
rice,  one  fowl,  six  or  seven  hard-boiled 


eggs,  2 ozs.  of  almonds,  2 ozs.  of  rai- 
sins, a few  cloves,  and  some  small  on- 
ions. Take  the  onions,  cloves,  and 
cinnamon  and  fry  them  together  with 
the  butter ; then  put  in  the  rice,  and 
let  it  fry  with  them,  but  do  not  make 
it  brown.  Boil  the  fowl,  and  with  the 
gravy,  instead  of  water,  put  it  to  boil 
with  the  rice,  taking  care  always  to 
have  two  inches  of  gravy  above  the 
rice.  When  the  rice  is  half  done,  put 
the  fowl  into  the  middle  of  it,  and  let 
it  remain  over  a gentle  fire  till  suffi- 
ciently done  and  dry  ; then  take  it  up, 
put  it  into  a deep  dish,  cover  the  fowl 
all  over  with  the  rice,  and  garnish 
with  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  quarters, 
the  almonds  blanched,  and  the  onions, 
cloves,  and  a few  small  onions  boiled. 
Lamb  may  be  used  instead  of  fowl. 


Pineapples 


PORK 


Bacon,  Boiled 


Pineapples. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  pineapples  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 


Pineapple  Cordial. 

See  Beverages. 

Punch. 

Cream. 

See  Creams  ; also  Ices. 

Compote  of. 

See  Fruits. 

Glace. 

Sliced. 

Ice. 

See  Ices. 

Sherbet. 

Jelly. 

See  Jellies. 

Canned. 

See  Preserves. 

..  Preserved. 

Syrup. 

Salad. 

See  Salads. 

Souffle. 

See  Souffles. 

Piquante  Sauce. 

See  Sauces. 

Piques. 

See  Cakes. 

Pistache  Ice-cream. 

See  Ices. 

Plain  Pudding  Sauces. 

See  Puddings. 

Planter’s  Pickle.  See  Pickles. 

Plums. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  plums  will  be  found  under 


PO 

Pork. — Fresh  pork  should  be  chosen 
with  greatest  care.  It  is  generally 
agreed  that  dairy-fed  pork  is  the  best. 
The  fat  should  be  white  and  firm,  the 
lean  finely  grained,  and  the  skin 
thin.  If  the  skin  is  thick  the  pork 
is  old  ; if  clammy,  it  is  stale.  Pork 
should  not  be  eaten  during  the  sum- 
mer months.  A little  salted  pork 
or  bacon  should  always  be  kept  on 
hand  for  larding  and  cooking  with 
meats,  poultry,  etc.,  and  as  an  ap- 
petizing accompaniment  to  break- 
fast dishes.  Pork  must  be  thorough- 
ly cooked. 


their  respective  headings  as  indi- 
cated : 


Plums,  Compote  of. 
Dried. 

..  Loaf. 

See  Fruits. 

Lozenges. 

Vol-au-vent. 

Cake. 

See  Cakes. 

Custard. 

See  Custard. 

Pudding  Ice- 

cream.  See  Ices. 

Brandied. 

See  Pickles. 

..  Pie. 

See  Pies. 

Tart. 

Canned. 

See  Preserves. 

Jam. 

.. 

Jelly. 

.. 

Preserves. 

Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 

Poached  Eggs. 

See  Eggs. 

Polenta,  Italian. 

See  Macaroni. 

Polenta,  Savory. 

See  Macaroni. 

Pompano  au  Gratin.  See  Fish. 

Poor-man’s  Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 

Pop-corn  Candy. 

See  Candy. 

Popovers. 

See  Bread. 

RK 

Bacon,  Boiled.  — Just  cover  the 
bacon  with  cold  water.  Allow  it 
very  gradually  to  come  to  a boil,  re- 
moving all  scum  as  it  arises,  and 
simmer  until  thoroughly  done;  then 
pull  off  the  skin  and  serve  with  bread- 
crumbs over  the  top.  Time  to  boil 
2 lbs.,  one  hour  and  a half ; half  an 
hour  for  each  additional  pound.  To 
serve  warm  for  breakfast,  cut  into 
thin  slices,  sprinkle  each  slice  with 
fine  bread  - crumbs  mixed  with  a little 
cayenne  pepper,  and  toast  quickly.  A 
common  wire  toaster  that  can  be  turned 
without  displacing  the  bacon  is  best. 


Bacon,  Broiled 


PORK 


Ham,  To  Boil  a 


Bacon,  Broiled.  — Cut  streaked 
bacon  into  thin  slices  and  lay  them 
on  a gridiron  over  the  fire ; turn  re- 
peatedly until  of  a light-brown  color, 
and  serve  hot.  Time  to  broil,  three 
to  four  minutes. 

Bacon  and  Calf’s  Liver.  — Both 
bacon  and  liver  should  be  in  thin 
slices.  Fry  the  bacon,  and  remove 
it,  as  soon  as  it  is  done  enough,  to  a 
hot  dish  before  the  fire ; flour  and 
pepper  the  liver,  and  place  it  in  the 
pan ; turn  frequently  until  done,  then 
place  a slice  of  bacon  on  each  slice  of 
liver.  Make  a gravy  by  pouring  off 
the  fat  and  dredging  a little  flour  into 
the  pan,  pour  in  enough  water  to 
supply  the  quantity  of  gravy  de- 
sired, add  a table-spoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  boil  and  pour  upon  the  dish. 
Garnish  with  slices  of  lemon.  Time, 
from  five  to  ten  minutes. 

Bacon  and  Eggs.  — Place  nicely 
cut  slices  of  streaked  bacon,  from 
which  the  rind  has  been  cut  off  to 
prevent  it  from  curling  up,  into  a 
cold  pan  over  a slow  Are;  turn  fre- 
quently and  serve  with  eggs,  which 
may  be  poached  or  fried  and  laid 
on  the  bacon.  Time,  three  or  four 
minutes. 

Bacon  or  Ham  Omelet. — Beat  six 
eggs,  and  add  a small  teaspoonful 
of  flour  mixed  with  a table-spoonful 
of  milk  or  water,  and  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste.  Mince  Yz  lb.  of  cold, 
boiled  bacon  or  ham,  and  stir  it  in 
with  the  egg.  Dissolve  a good  piece 
of  butter  or  fat  in  the  omelet-pan  and 
pour  in  the  omelet.  Shake  the  pan 
while  cooking.  In  three  or  four 
minutes  the  sides  may  be  folded  over 
and  the  omelet  turned  out  on  a hot 
dish,  or  taken  up  with  a flat  spoon. 
Some  cooks  prefer  to  put  the  bacon 
or  ham  in  the  middle  and  fold  the 
sides  over  it.  This  kind  of  omelet 
may  be  made  with  a variety  of  in- 
gredients : cold  meat,  kidney,  green- 
pease,  asparagus  tops,  small  mush- 
rooms, oysters,  and  lobster.  Time, 
from  three  to  four  minutes. 


Bacon  and  Lima  Beans.  — Put  2 

lbs.  of  good,  tender  bacon  into  a pan 
with  cold  water,  nearly  full.  When  it 
has  boiled  over  one  hour  add  a quart 
of  lima  beans,  and  boil  till  tender. 
Take  off  the  skin  from  the  bacon, 
sprinkle  bread-crumbs  over  the  top  of 
it,  and  serve  with  the  beans  under, 
and  fried  parsley  as  a garnish  round 
the  dish.  Smoked  bacon  should  be 
dressed  separately  and  placed  on  the 
beans  when  ready. 

Bacon  Salad  Dressing. — Cut  3 or 

4 ozs.  of  streaked  bacon  into  very 
small  dice,  and  fry  them  to  a pale 
color,  but  crisp.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
three  eggs  with  a table-spoonful  of 
flour,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar, 
and  half  as  much  again  of  water ; add 
a spoonful  of  made  mustard,  some 
salt  and  pepper.  Put  this  to  the 
bacon  in  the  stewpan  and  stir  it  over 
the  fire  until  thick  and  smooth.  The 
bacon  fat  supplies  the  place  of  oil. 
It  must  be  stirred  while  cooling. 
Should  it  be  thicker  than  cream,  thin 
it  with  a little  vinegar  and  water 
well  stirred  in.  It  is  very  good  for 
potato  salad. 

Ham  with  Aspic  Jelly.  — The  best 
garnish  for  a cold  ham  that  is  in- 
tended to  be  used  at  once  is  aspic 
jelly,  as  it  may  be  eaten  with  it.  It 
should  be  cut  into  dice,  and  the  dish 
ornamented  with  it  in  any  appropri- 
ate way.  A few  carrots  and  pickles, 
stamped  into  shapes,  may  be  added. 
When  a ham  is  expected  to  be  kept 
for  some  days,  however,  this  garnish 
should  not  be  used,  as  it  soon  spoils. 

Ham,  To  Boil  a. — This  is  ordinarily 
esteemed  so  simple  a process  that 
most  housekeepers  will  regard  a recipe 
superfluous ; but  ham  is  often  served 
underdone,  and  therefore  salty,  tough, 
and  unpalatable.  It  is  always  best 
to  wash  a ham  the  evening  before  the 
day  you  wish  to  have  it  cooked,  and 
let  it  soak  in  water  all  night.  In  the 
morning,  cover  it  well  with  water  and 
keep  it  slowly  boiling  until  you  are 
ready  to  dish  up  your  dinner.  You 


265 


Ham,  Broiled 


PORK 


Hams,  Easter 


may  ascertain  if  it  is  sufficiently  done 
by  the  readiness  with  which  the  bone 
on  the  under  side  may  be  removed. 
If  it  comes  out  easily,  the  ham  is 
done.  You  may  remove  the  outside 
skin,  or  not,  as  you  choose.  Some 
epicures  think  a ham  ruined  if  either 
skinned  or  cut  until  perfectly  cold, 
esteeming  it  desirable  to  retain  all 
the  juices.  The  prettiest  way  of  serv- 
ing up  ham  is  to  take  off  the  skin 
after  being  thoroughly  boiled,  to 
grate  bread-crumbs  thickly  over  the 
top,  and  brush  the  whole  over  with 
the  yolks  of  eggs.  Then  put  into 
the  oven  and  brown  nicely.  If,  dur- 
ing the  process  of  boiling,  it  is  found 
necessary  to  add  more  water,  be 
sure  that  this  is  boiling,  for  cold 
water  will  inevitably  render  the  meat 
tough. 

Cold  boiled  ham,  cut  into  pieces 
about  twice  the  size  of  an  oyster,  and 
dipped  into  batter,  frying  in  a hot 
oven  just  long  enough  to  cook  the 
batter,  makes  a very  good  relish  for 
tea.  Allow  for  the  batter  two  or  three 
eggs  to  half  a pint  of  milk,  and  flour 
sufficient  to  make  it  stiff  enough ; if 
preferred,  the  pieces  of  ham  can  be 
dipped  in  the  yolk  and  white  of  an 
egg  beaten  together  until  light,  and 
then  rolled  in  cracker  finely  pulver- 
ized. 

Another  way  : — Select  a ham  from 
12  to  IS  lbs.  in  weight  that  has  been 
well  cured  with  saltpetre.  Let  it  soak 
in  cold  water  all  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing, put  the  ham  into  a large  iron 
boiler,  covering  it  well  with  fresh, 
cold  water,  and  set  it  to  cook  on  the 
back  of  the  stove,  where  the  heat 
will  be  steady  but  moderate.  If  the 
water  should  need  replenishing,  re- 
fill with  hot  water.  When  the  meat 
leaves  the  bone  easily,  it  is  sufficiently 
done.  The  best  way  to  serve  a ham 
is  to  draw  off  the  skin,  brush  the  top 
of  the  ham  with  yolk  of  egg,  sprin- 
kle thickly  with  finely  rasped  bread- 
crumbs or  cracker-dust  flavored  with 
pepper.  Put  it  in  a baking-pan  in 
the  oven  and  let  it  brown.  Serve  in  a 
large,  flat  meat -dish.  Garnish  with 
small  sprigs  of  parsley. 


Ham,  Broiled. — Slice  the  ham  in 
pieces  rather  thicker  than  when  to 
be  eaten  cold.  Have  a griddle  heated 
thoroughly.  Place  these  slices  well 
peppered  in  it.  Use  enough  of  the 
fat  of  the  ham  to  prevent  burning  and 
to  supply  gravy.  Time  to  cook,  five 
minutes.  If  liked,  a little  made  mus- 
tard may  be  added 

Another  way : — If  the  ham  is  too 
salt,  cut  into  thin  slices ; pour  boiling 
water  over  them,  letting  it  remain 
ten  minutes ; wipe  the  ham  a little, 
and  place  it  on  the  gridiron.  This 
takes  out  the  salt.  Ham  that  has 
been  boiled  broils  nicer  than  the  un- 
cooked meat. 

Ham  Croquettes.  — Chop  i lb.  of 
lean,  cold  boiled  ham,  mix  with  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  a spoonful  of  salt 
and  powdered  sage  each,  a salt-spoon- 
ful of  pepper,  lb.  of  stale  bread- 
crumbs soaked  in  cold  water  until 
soft  and  then  squeezed  dry.  Wet 
the  hands  in  cold  water,  and  make 
the  mixture  into  small  croquettes,  dip 
in  cracker- meal,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat. 
When  the  croquettes  are  brown,  take 
up  carefully  with  a skimmer,  lay  on 
brown  paper  to  drain,  and  serve  very 
hot. 

Hams,  Easter  (Maryland  style). — 
The  ham  is  cut  out  of  the  bag,  washed 
carefully,  put  into  cold  water,  and 
allowed  to  gently  simmer  until  it  is 
about  half  done.  When  taken  out, 
the  ham  is  set  aside  until  it  is  cool, 
and  then  skinned.  The  stuffing  is 
prepared  by  taking  a “ good  parcel  ” 
of  cabbage  sprouts,  a handful  of 
parsley,  a small  piece  of  stale  bread, 
and  chopping  them  all  together  with 
plenty  of  black  pepper.  Deep  gashes 
are  then  made  in  the  ham  with  a 
sharp  knife,  about  an  inch  apart, 
from  the  hock  down  the  whole  length 
of  the  ham,  and  these  gashes  are 
tightly  stuffed  to  the  very  bone  with 
the  greens.  A wooden  skewer  is 
the  best  aid  here.  After  that  the 
ham  is  baked  until  done — an  hour 
or  so  will  probably  be  enough.  In 


Ham  and  Eggs 


PORK 


Ham,  Roast 


preparing  for  baking  it  is  well  to 
sprinkle  the  ham  with  a layer  of 
sugar  and  a layer  of  corn  meal,  and 
it  is  wise  also  to  put  about  a half-pint 
of  water  into  the  drip-pan,  which 
should  be  set  in  a close  oven.  There 
should  be  no  basting,  as  the  rising 
steam  makes  tenderness  enough. 
When  brought  upon  the  table,  all 
decorated  with  parsley  and  round 
splotches  of  black  pepper,  the  host 
passes  his  sharp  knife  into  the 
ham,  and  its  thin,  pink  slices  fall 
on  the  dish  all  veined  with  green 
hues. 

Ham  and  Eggs.  — Cut  the  ham 
into  thin  slices  of  a uniform  thick- 
ness, and,  if  it  is  very  hard  and  salt, 
soak  it  for  eight  or  ten  minutes  in 
boiling  water,  then  drain,  and  dry 
it  in  a cloth.  Cut  off  the  rind,  put 
the  slices  in  a cold  frying-pan,  and 
turn  them  two  or  three  times  dur- 
ing cooking.  Put  them  on  a hot 
dish,  and,  if  the  fat  is  in  the  least 
discolored,  poach  the  eggs  separate- 
ly and  slip  them  into  the  pan. 
Take  them  up,  drain  them  from 
the  fat,  and  place  them  on  the  ham. 
Serve  as  hot  as  possible.  Time, 
seven  or  eight  minutes  to  fry  the 
ham. 

Another  way : — Broil  thin  slices  of 
boiled  ham  three  or  four  minutes 
over  a brisk  fire.  Try  out  a little 
salt  pork  in  a pan,  then  add  the  eggs 
one  at  a time,  basting  them  once 
with  the  fat  in  the  pan. 

Ham  Escalopes  au  Xeres. — Cut 

into  thin  slices  and  free  from  fat  I lb. 
of  cooked  ham.  iMix  a teaspoonful 
of  flour  and  a table-spoonful  of  but- 
ter to  a smooth  paste,  and  spread 
with  a knife  a small  quantity  of  the 
mixture  on  each  side  of  each  slice  of 
ham.  Sprinkle  the  slices  with  pow- 
dered sugar,  and  put  a little  in  the 
chafing-dish  after  they  are  piled  one 
on  top  of  the  other  in  the  dish.  Add 
one  gill  and  a half  of  the  best  sherry. 
Cook  fifteen  minutes  with  cover  on 
over  a moderate  flame,  basting  four 
times.  Serve  hot. 


Ham  Fingers. — Cut  thin  slices  of 
lean,  cold  boiled  ham ; cut  each  slice 
into  strips  half  an  inch  wide,  dip  into 
a thick  remolade  sauce,  place  four 
on  a slice  of  bread,  cover  with  a top 
slice,  cut  into  four  fingers,  length- 
wise, fold  each  one  in  a lettuce-leaf, 
and  pile  on  a napkin. 

Ham  and  Fowl,  Potted. — Take  the 
meat  from  a cold  chicken  and  put 
it  into  a mortar  with  l/i  lb.  of  cooked 
ham  fat  and  lean  mixed.  Pound 
these  to  a pulp,  and  season  them 
with  pepper  and  a very  little  pounded 
mace.  Put  the  bone  and  trimmings 
of  the  chicken  into  a saucepan,  with 
a small  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  half 
a blade  of  mace,  and  as  much  water 
as  will  cover  them.  Boil  the  meat 
down  to  glaze.  Mix  this  and  2 ozs. 
of  clarified  butter  with  the  pounded 
meat.  Put  it  into  small  jars,  and 
pour  clarified  butter  over  the  top. 
Time,  about  one  hour  to  prepare. 

Ham,  Roast. — Scrape,  soak,  and 
wipe  the  ham.  Put  it  into  a dish ; 
pour  a bottle  of  Madeira  wine  over  it ; 
cut  a carrot  and  two  onions  in  slices ; 
put  these  over  it  also,  with  two  bay- 
leaves,  two  cloves,  and  six  stalks  of 
parsley.  Baste  now  and  then,  and 
leave  thus  for  twenty-four  hours ; 
then  remove  the  bone  at  the  larger 
end,  trim  off  fat  and  lean,  and  put  it 
in  a bake-pan;  turn  the  seasonings 
over  it,  put  into  the  oven,  baste  now 
and  then  until  cooked,  which  you 
ascertain  with  a skewer.  Dish  it, 
strain  the  gravy  over  it,  and  serve 
with  wine  sauce. 

Ham,  Roast  (with  sherry). — Put  a 
small,  lean  ham  of  8 or  9 lbs.  into 
cold  water  for  six  hours ; dry  with  a 
clean  towel,  put  it  into  a saucepan, 
and  cover  with  cold  water.  Season 
with  one  onion,  four  sprigs  of  parsley, 
four  cloves,  and  four  whole  peppers. 
From  the  moment  it  starts  boiling 
it  requires  two  hours  of  cooking,  but 
not  fast.  Remove  from  the  sauce- 
pan, lift  up  the  skin,  and  trim  off  the 
fat  of  the  top  to  a half-inch  thick- 


Ham  Saute,  with  Dandelion  PORK 


Ham,  Virginia,  To  Cure 


ness.  Put  into  a roasting-pan,  and 
with  Y\  lb.  of  granulated  sugar  put 
a thick  coating  and  the  balance  in 
the  pan.  Pour  into  the  pan  one  pint 
of  sherry  wine.  Cook  in  a moderate 
oven  forty  minutes,  basting  every 
ten  minutes.  Serve  the  gravy  in  a 
sauce-boat.  The  ham  must  be  cut  very 
thin,  and  may  be  served  hot  or  cold. 

Ham  Saute,  with  Dandelion  Puree. 

— Trim  I Yz  lbs.  of  ham  and  cut  into 
pieces  a quarter  of  an  inch  thick. 
Put  into  a saucepan  with  sufficient 
cold  water  to  cover.  Let  all  come 
to  a boil,  and  after  simmering  for 
fifteen  minutes  remove  the  ham 
and  drain  well.  Put  in  an  earthen 
crock  one  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
and  stand  same  over  fire.  When  hot, 
add  the  ham,  and  cook  gently  for  six 
minutes.  Add  a slight  sprinkling  of 
pepper,  but  no  salt. 

To  Prepare  the  Dandelion  Puree. — 
Cut  a little  of  each  root  to  freshen  it, 
and  pull  off  the  larger  leaves.  Put 
them  into  a bowl  with  cold  water.  Ex- 
amine each  heart,  and  cut  out  every 
suggestion  of  bud  that  may  be  found. 
Put  the  hearts  into  a separate  bowl  of 
fresh  water.  Wash  the  large  leaves 
in  several  waters,  and  cook  them  thir- 
ty minutes  in  plenty  of  boiling  water 
which  has  been  salted  to  taste.  Drain 
them.  Plunge  them  into  cold  water, 
and  next  drain  and  press  out  all  the 
moisture.  Chop  very  fine  and  pass 
them  through  a colander.  Put  into 
a saucepan  one  table-spoonful  of  but- 
ter. When  melted,  add  the  cooked 
dandelion.  Sprinkle  over  these  one 
teaspoonful  of  flour.  Mix  well,  and 
add  one  gill  of  broth  or  milk,  and 
cook  eight  minutes,  stirring  mean- 
while. Season  with  half  a salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  but  use  no  salt. 
Remove  from  the  fire,  add  another 
table-spoonful  of  fresh  butter,  and 
mix  well.  The  hearts  of  dandelion 
which  have  been  cooling  and  fresh- 
ening in  cold  water  should  now  be 
cleansed,  taken  out,  and  shaken  gen- 
tly in  a salad-basket  or  a clean  nap- 
kin. Be  careful  not  to  bruise  them. 
Serve  with  a French  dressing. 


Ham,  Fresh,  Stuffed  and  Roasted. 

— Have  the  bone  entirely  removed 
from  a nice  fresh  ham  of  about  7 lbs.  ; 
make  small  incisions  all  over  the 
skin  on  the  top;  rub  inside  one  tea- 
spoonful of  salt  and  one  salt-spoon- 
ful of  black  pepper.  Wash  one  quart 
of  red  beans  and  put  them  in  two 
quarts  of  cold  water,  with  half  a 
table  - spoonful  of  salt,  one  onion 
with  one  clove  stuck  in  it,  two  sprigs 
of  parsley.  Boil  one  hour  and  a half, 
drain  them,  remove  onion  and  pars- 
ley; take  half  of  the  beans  and  pass 
them  through  a strainer;  keep  the 
other  half  for  further  use.  Chop 
two  large  onions,  put  them  in  a small 
saucepan,  with  one  table  - spoonful 
of  butter ; cook  three  minutes,  but 
do  not  brown  them.  Add  them  to 
the  puree  of  beans,  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  finely  chopped  parsley 
and  one  salt-spoonful  of  black  pep- 
per ; mix  well.  Stuff  the  ham  with 
it,  stitch  the  opening,  and  put  a string 
all  around  it,  to  keep  it  in  a nice 
shape.  Sprinkle  all  over  with  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  black  pepper  ; put  * it  in 
a roast-pan,  with  two  gills  of  stock. 
Roast  in  a moderate  oven  one  and  a 
half  hours,  then  add  the  other  half 
of  the  beans,  and  cook  one  hour 
more.  After  the  first  half-hour  of 
the  roasting,  baste  well  every  twenty 
minutes.  Remove  the  strings  and 
serve.  It  is  a novel  way  to  prepare 
a fresh  ham,  not  expensive,  whole- 
some, more  delicate  and  tasty  than 
roast  pork.  Served  cold  the  next 
day  it  is  delicious.  If  any  beans  are 
left  over,  serve  them  cold  with  a French 
dressing. 

Ham  Turnovers. — Chop  cold  boiled 
ham  fine  and  warm  in  butter.  Beat 
two  or  more  eggs,  according  to  quan- 
tity of  ham,  and  pour  into  a saucepan. 
When  it  is  brown  on  one  side  spread 
the  ham  on  half  of  it  and  turn  the 
other  half  over  it. 


Ham,  Virginia,  To  Cure. — For  cur- 
ing eight  hams  averaging  12  lbs. 
in  weight,  have  ready  three  gallons 


Ham,  York 


PORK 


Pork  Chops,  Broiled 


of  best  salt,  2 lbs.  of  fair  brown  sugar, 
54  lb.  of  powdered  saltpetre,  2 ozs.  of 
black  pepper,  and  i oz.  of  cayenne 
pepper.  Cut  the  joints  into  proper 
shapes,  without  unnecessary  bone 
and  fat,  and  lay  them  on  a board  or 
table.  First  rub  the  skin  well  with 
salt,  and  lay  each  joint  aside,  then 
begin  over  again,  and  into  the  fleshy 
side  of  every  ham  rub  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  saltpetre  and  a table-spoonful  of 
brown  sugar  mixed  together.  Rub 
the  pepper  particularly  about  the 
hock  and  under  the  bone,  and  give 
to  the  whole  ham  a good  application 
of  salt.  Now  pack  the  hams,  one  upon 
another,  the  skin  downward,  with  a 
layer  of  salt  between,  into  a tub  or 
box,  the  bottom  of  which  has  also  been 
covered  with  salt.  The  process  of  salt- 
ing will  be  complete  in  five  weeks.  At 
the  end  of  that  time  have  ready  about 
a peck  of  hickory  ashes,  clean  the 
hams  with  a brush  or  dry  cloth,  and 
rub  them  with  the  ashes.  To  smoke 
the  hams  the  joints  should  be  hung 
from  joists  beneath  the  ceiling,  and  a 
low,  smothered  fire  kept  up  for  five  or 
six  weeks,  so  as  to  smoke  thoroughly 
but  not  overheat  the  hams.  Or  as  an 
excellent  substitute  for  this  process, 
paint  the  hams  with  a coating  of  py- 
roligneous acid,  let  them  dry,  and  re- 
peat the  operation.  Wrap  each  ham 
in  paper  and  encase  it  in  a canvas  or 
strong  cotton  bag. 

Ham,  York.  — Wash  and  scrape 
the  ham ; put  in  a saucepan  with 
enough  cold  water  to  cover  it ; add  two 
carrots,  two  onions,  celery,  cloves, 
a blade  of  mace,  thyme,  and  bay- 
leaves  ; simmer  very  slowly  for  four 
hours ; allow  to  cool  in  the  liquor. 
When  cold  remove  the  rind,  cut  into 
thin  slices,  and  serve  with  any  rich 
salad. 

Pigs’  Feet,  Boned.  — Wash  well 
in  cold  water  four  large  pigs'  feet, 
dry  them  with  a towel,  and  tie  the 
flesh  at  the  top  with  a strip  of  muslin 
to  prevent  it  from  shrinking.  Put 
them  in  enough  water  to  cover,  sea- 
son with  two  carrots,  two  red  onions, 


sliced,  and  a bouquet  of  six  sprigs  of 
parsley,  two  branches  of  celery,  three 
cloves,  one  bay  - leaf,  small  branch  of 
thyme.  Add  one  level  table -spoon- 
ful of  salt,  half  a teaspoonful  of  black 
pepper.  Bring  to  a fast  boil,  then 
cook  slowly  for  four  hours.  When 
done,  drain  the  feet,  cut  them  in  two 
lengthwise,  remove  all  the  bones, 
cut  the  meat  in  pieces  half  an  inch 
wide  and  one  inch  long.  Grind 
I lb.  of  fresh  pork  meat,  season  with 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  black  pepper,  one  table- 
spoonful of  chopped  parsley,  and 
mix  well.  Cut  in  eight  pieces  some 
pigs’  caul  or  crepinette,  being  each 
of  the  size  of  two  hands  when  spread 
on  the  meat-board.  Divide  your  force- 
meat according  to  the  quantity  of 
pigs'  feet.  Put  a thin  layer  of  it  on 
the  spread  crepinette,  then  arrange 
with  care  an  appropriate  quantity  of 
pigs’  meat  over  the  force-meat.  Then 
fold  gently  the  skin,  giving  to  the 
pigs'  feet  the  shape  of  pears.  They 
must  be  very  compact  and  tightly 
wrapped  up  in  the  crepinette.  Put 
them  over  the  gridiron,  broil  them 
six  minutes  on  each  side,  and  serve 
them  on  a hot  platter. 

Pork  and  Beans.  — Soak  a quart 
of  small  white  beans  overnight.  In 
the  morning  simmer  them  an  hour 
with  an  onion.  Take  out  the  onion 
and  put  the  beans  in  a bean-pot  with 
Yz  lb.  of  scored  salt  pork,  with  a little 
of  the  water  in  which  the  beans  were 
boiled,  and  bake  at  least  an  hour. 

Another  way  : — Omit  the  onion, 
but  add  a table-spoonful  of  molasses 
when  the  beans  are  put  into  the  pot, 
and  bake  at  least  two  hours. 

Another  way : — Do  not  parboil  the 
beans  after  they  have  been  soaked 
overnight,  but  bake  them,  with  the 
pork  and  molasses,  at  least  eight 
hours,  adding  hot  water  every  hour 
except  the  last  two  hours.  The 
beans  must  not  be  stirred. 

Pork  Chops,  Broiled. — Have  six 
thick  pork  chops,  about  3 lbs.  in 
weight,  trimmed  in  the  French  way. 


Pork,  Loin  of,  Baked 


PORK 


Pork  Tenderloins 


Flatten  them  slightly  with  the  kitchen 
knife.  Melt  two  table  - spoonfuls  of 
butter,  put  in  it  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one  salt-spoonful  of  pepper.  Mix 
well ; dip  the  chops  in  it  on  both  sides. 
Have  one  pint  of  freshly  made  bread- 
crumbs ; roll  the  chops  in  these ; broil 
them  six  minutes  on  each  side.  Serve 
them  with  a paper  ruffle  on  each  han- 
dle. 

Pork,  Loin  of,  Baked  (German 
method). — Score  the  skin  of  a fresh 
loin  of  pork,  sprinkle  a teaspoonful 
of  salt  over  it,  and  lay  it  in  a baking- 
dish  with  half  a cupful  of  stock  or 
water ; baste  liberally.  When  the 
meat  is  half  cooked,  sprinkle  two 
table  - spoonfuls  of  caraway  seeds 
over  it.  The  brown  gravy  which  is 
in  the  dish  may  be  served  with  the 
meat.  The  fat  must  be  cleared  from 
it,  and  it  must  be  strained  and  sea- 
soned with  pepper  and  salt.  Time  to 
bake,  about  twenty-five  minutes  for 
every  pound. 

Pork,  Loin  of,  Marinaded  (a  Ger- 
man recipe). — Score  a fresh  loin  of 
pork  in  the  usual  way  and  rub  it  well 
with  powdered  sage ; lay  the  meat 
in  the  salting-pan  and  pour  over  it 
two  pints  of  tarragon  vinegar  and 
two  pints  of  cold  water  ; add  a dessert- 
spoonful of  salt,  1/4  ozs.  of  bruised 
peppercorns,  a piece  of  garlic  the  size 
of  a pea,  twelve  young  sage-leaves, 
and  a small  onion.  Turn  and  rub 
the  pork  every  day  for  three  days. 
Take  it  up,  drain  it,  rub  it  again  with 
powdered  sage,  wrap  it  in  an  oiled 
paper,  and  roast  before  a clear  fire. 
Baste  liberally  with  the  pickle.  Serve 
on  a hot  dish,  and  send  to  table  with 
the  meat  a sauce  prepared  as  fol- 
lows : Mix  smoothly  in  a sauce- 

pan 2 ozs.  of  butter  and  a table-spoon- 
ful of  flour ; add  gradually  half  a 
pint  of  the  pickle  with  which  the  pork 
has  been  basted,  a teaspoonful  of 
moist  sugar,  half  a teaspoonful  of 
salt,  a pinch  of  cayenne,  and  a glass 
of  port.  Simmer  the  sauce  over  a 
gentle  fire  until  it  is  of  the  consistency 
of  cream,  and  send  it  to  table  in  a 


tureen.  Time  to  roast,  twenty -five 
minutes  per  pound. 

Pork,  Roast.— Score  the  skin  of  a 
leg  of  pork  or  a fresh  loin  of  pork  at 
equal  distances  about  a quarter  of 
an  inch  apart.  Brush  it  over  with 
salad  oil,  and  place  the  joint  in  a 
moderate  oven,  putting  a little  water 
in  the  baking-pan.  Baste  liberally, 
and  when  done  enough  serve  on  a 
hot  dish,  and  send  brown  gravy 
and  apple -sauce  or  Robert  sauce  to 
table  with  the  meat.  If  liked,  a little 
sage-and-onion  stuffing  may  be  served 
in  a separate  dish.  It  is  better  not  to 
send  it  to  table  on  the  same  dish  as 
the  meat,  as  many  people  object  to  the 
flavor.  Time,  a loin  of  pork  weigh- 
ing 5 lbs.,  about  two  hours. 

To  Carve. — In  carving  either  the 
roast  leg  or  loin  of  pork  the  knife  must 
follow  the  direction  of  the  lines  scored 
by  the  cook,  before  the  meat  was 
roasted,  on  the  skin  which  forms  the 
crackling.  This  skin  is  too  crisp  to 
be  conveniently  cut  through.  It  usu- 
ally happens  that  the  lines  scored  on 
the  roasted  leg  of  pork  are  placed  too 
far  apart  for  single  cuts.  In  order, 
therefore,  to  cut  thin  slices  from  the 
meat,  raise  up  the  crackling.  The 
seasoning  should  be  placed  under  the 
skin  round  the  shank  bone,  but  this 
seasoning  is  frequently  omitted. 

Pork  Tenderloins,  Broiled. — Pare 
and  trim  all  the  fat  and  sinews  of 
two  tenderloins  of  pork.  Blend  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper  with  one  table- 
spoonful of  butter,  and  dip  the  fillets 
in  it.  Broil  slowly,  allowing  eight 
minutes  for  each  side.  Chop  very 
fine  enough  gherkins  to  fill  one  table- 
spoon, and  same  quantit}'  of  parsley, 
to  which  add  two  table -spoonfuls  of 
melted  butter  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
vinegar.  Arrange  the  fillets  on  a hot 
platter  and  pour  over  them  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  melted  butter  and  one 
teaspoonful  of  vinegar  that  have  been 
well  mixed.  Serve  with  turnips,  oys- 
ter-plant, or  any  other  desirable  vege- 
table. Pork  tenderloins  are  frequent- 


270 


Sausages,  Fried 


PORK 


Sucking-pig  Barbecue 


ly  stewed  in  as  little  water  as  possible. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a bay- 
leaf. 

Sausages,  Fried. — Melt  a little  but- 
ter in  a frying-pan,  and  as  soon  as 
it  is  dissolved  put  in  the  sausages 
in  a single  layer.  Sift  flour  over 
them,  and  fry  over  a very  gentle  fire 
till  they  are  browned,  moving  them 
about  that  they  may  be  equally 
colored  all  over.  Drain  the  fat  from 
them  by  laying  them  on  a hair  sieve 
before  the  fire  for  a minute  or  two,  and 
serve  them  on  a toast,  or  around  a 
mould  of  mashed  potatoes.  Send 
sauce  to  table  in  a tureen.  As  sau- 
sages, especially  when  made  of  pork, 
need  to  be  well  dressed,  care  must  be 
taken  to  heat  them  very  gradually,  so 
that  they  may  not  be  burned  outside 
before  they  are  done  enough  in  the 
centre.  When  the  oven  is  moderately 
heated,  they  may  with  advantage  be 
baked  instead  of  fried.  Time  to  fry, 
fifteen  to  twenty  minutes. 

Sausages,  Fried,  with  Apples.  — 

Take  lb.  of  sausages  and  six  ap- 
ples. Cut  four  of  the  apples  into  thin 
slices  and  cut  the  remaining  two  into 
quarters.  Fry  them  with  the  sausages 
to  a fine,  light  brown,  and  lay  the  sau- 
sages in  the  centre  of  the  dish  and  the 
apples  round.  Garnish  with  the  quar- 
tered apples. 

For  other  Sausage  recipes  see 
Sausages. 

Sausages,  Sauce  for. — Dissolve  a 
little  fresh  butter  in  a saucepan. 
Stir  into  this  enough  flour  to  make 
a smooth  paste,  rub  it  briskly  over 
the  fire  until  it  is  browned,  moisten 
gradually  with  boiling  water  till  it  is 
as  thick  as  cream,  add  a table-spoon- 
ful of  catsup.  Boil  the  sauce  for  a few 
minutes,  place  the  sausages  in  a dish, 
and  strain  the  sauce  over  them. 

Scrapple.  — Boil  the  pork  (a  pig’s 
head  will  answer)  in  four  quarts  of 
cold  water  and  bring  it  slowly  to  the 
boil.  Skim  carefully,  season  the 
liquid  rather  highly  with  salt  and 


cayenne,  and  add  half  a dozen  sage 
leaves,  chopped  small.  Let  the  meat 
simmer  gently  for  two  hours,  then 
take  out  the  bones,  mince  the  flesh 
finely,  and  put  it  back  into  the  liquid. 
Stir  in  as  much  sifted  corn  meal  as 
will  thicken  the  liquid,  and  simmer 
two  hours  longer,  until  it  is  of  the  con- 
sistency of  thick  porridge.  Pour  into 
deep  jars  and  set  in  a cool  place.  When 
scrapple  is  to  be  eaten,  cut  it  into  slices 
and  fry  these  in  hot  fat  for  breakfast. 
Time,  ten  minutes  to  fry  the  slices. 

Souse,  or  Head-cheese. — Take  the 
head,  tongue,  and  feet  of  one  or  more 
fine,  well-grown  porkers ; clean  these 
pieces  well,  and  soak  in  water  for 
twelve  hours.  Then  boil  until  the 
flesh  will  slip  easily  from  the  bones ; 
chop  the  meat,  and  season  with  salt, 
black  pepper,  cloves,  sage,  or  sweet- 
marjoram,  rubbed  fine;  mix  well,  and 
fill  with  it  moulds  of  any  size  or  shape 
you  choose.  In  two  days  it  will  be 
fully  set  and  fit  for  use.  As  this 
souse  will  keep  well,  and  is  a favorite 
dish,  suiting  almost  any  meal,  house- 
keepers frequently  make  a supply 
of  it  sufficient  to  last  during  the  win- 
ter season.  In  this  case,  turn  out 
the  moulds  and  pack  them  in  a jar 
capacious  enough  to  hold  all  you 
have,  then  pour  over  the  souse  vine- 
gar and  water  enough  to  cover  the 
whole ; place  a plate  over  the  top,  and 
weight  it  down  so  that  the  souse  is 
completely  submerged ; tie  up  the 
jar  close,  and  you  will  always  have 
something  ready  for  an  unexpected 
guest,  or  luncheon  suddenly  called  for. 
Made  mustard  and  any  other  high- 
seasoned  condiment  may  be  added  at 
the  table  to  suit  the  individual  taste. 

Sucking-pig  Barbecue.  — Make  a 
force-meat  of  two  anchovies,  six  sage 
leaves,  and  the  liver ; pound  them  in 
a mortar  together  with  bread-crumbs, 
4 ozs.  of  butter,  some  paprika,  and 
half  a pint  of  wine  ; stuff  the  pig  and 
sew  it  up ; place  very  near  a hot  fire 
and  baste  it.  When  done,  take  it  up 
and  allow  to  cool;  glaze  with  aspic 
jelly,  and  garnish  with  cresses. 


Mush,  Crushed-wheat  PORRIDGE,  ETC 


Potage 


Mush,  Crushed  - wheat.  — Grits 
should  be  stirred  gradually  into  boil- 
ing water  until  a thin  mush  is  formed ; 
the  boiling  should  be  continued  slowly 
for  an  hour  or  two,  the  coarser  the 
grits  the  longer  they  should  be  boiled. 
Raisins  may  be  cooked  with  it  for 
a seasoning. 

Mush,  Farina. — One  or  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  farina  stirred  into  one 
cupful  of  boiling  salted  water  in  a 
double  boiler.  Boil  fifteen  minutes, 
then  add  a cupful  of  milk  with  a 
little  sugar.  Boil  fifteen  minutes 
longer. 

Mush,  Indian -meal. — It  requires 
longer  boiling  and  more  careful  mix- 
ing than  oatmeal.  The  meal  should 
be  mixed  with  boiling  water  or  milk 
gradually,  and  stirred  rapidly  be- 
tween each  handful  to  prevent  it  from 
lumping.  It  requires  long  boiling, 
and  when  boiled  is  served  with  salt, 
sugar,  and  milk  .separately  ; or  it 
may  be  put  into  a well-buttered  basin 
and  served,  turned  out  while  still 
warm.  Polenta  is  made  with  partly 
cooked  mush  turned  into  a well-but- 
tered, shallow  dish,  and  mixed  with 
grated  cheese ; to  be  baked  from  fif- 
teen to  twenty  minutes  — Yz  lb.  of 
mush  to  2 ozs.  of  grated  cheese. 

Porridge,  Milk.  — Put  into  an 
enamelled  saucepan  half  a pint  of 
whole  groats,  on  which  pour  a pint 
and  a half  of  cold  water.  Boil  well 
for  two  or  three  hours,  adding  more 
water  if  too  thick,  and  strain  through 
a colander  or  sieve.  This  porridge 
may  be  kept  two  or  three  days,  and 
when  wanted  boiling  milk  should  be 
added. 

Porridge,  Oatmeal.  — Put  a pint 
and  a half  of  water  or  milk  and  water 
into  a saucepan,  and  add  a pinch  of 
salt.  When  the  liquid  fully  boils,  as 
it  is  rising  in  the  pan  sprinkle  grad- 
ually 2 ozs.  of  oatmeal  into  it  and 
at  the  same  time  stir  briskly  with  a 
fork.  Keep  stirring  until  the  lumps 
are  beaten  out.  Boil  the  mixture 


for  a quarter  of  an  hour,  pour  it  on 
a plate,  and  eat  it  with  milk  and 
sugar  or  syrup.  The  secret  of  mak- 
ing it  properly  is  to  let  the  water  boil 
fast  before  putting  in  the  oatmeal. 
Time,  a quarter  of  an  hour  from  the 
time  the  water  boils.  Sufficient  for 
one  person. 

Porridge,  Scotch  Oatmeal.  — Oat- 
meal porridge  is  made  of  oatmeal, 
water,  and  salt  only,  no  sweet  milk, 
buttermilk,  nor  butter  being  neces- 
sary, although  all  of  these  articles 
may  be  used  as  relishes  with  it.  It 
is  best  made  from  meal  of  medium 
coarseness.  The  water  must  be  boil- 
ing when  the  meal  is  stirred  in,  and 
it  must  be  stirred  in  carefully  and 
gradually,  and  not  thrown  in  all  at 
once,  and  the  stirring  must  be  con- 
tinued during  the  time  of  boiling, 
which  should  not  be  less  than  fifteen 
minutes,  arid  is  much  better  boiled 
longer.  If  longer  boiled,  the  grain 
of  the  meal  gets  softer,  and  of  course 
the  porridge  gets  thicker.  Porridge 
is  more  palatable  when  a flat  dish  is 
used  for  it  than  when  it  is  put  into  a 
bowl. 

Pot-au-Feu. — Put  in  an  earthen 
pot  sufficiently  large  4 lbs.  of  beef 
sliced,  a good  knuckle  of  veal,  and  a 
fowl  half  roasted.  Add  nearly  three 
quarts  of  cold  water,  set  it  at  the  side 
of  the  fire,  and  skim  gently.  Add 
salt,  two  carrots,  a turnip,  three  leeks, 
half  a head  of  celery  tied  in  a bun- 
dle, and  a clove  stuck  in  an  onion, 
and  let  it  boil  slowly  for  five  hours 
without  ceasing.  Then  take  up  the 
roots  and  trim  them  neatly ; taste  the 
broth,  using  but  little  salt  to  flavor 
the  soup;  skim,  add  the  roots  to  it, 
and  serve.  This  is  a healthy  soup, 
and  good  in  families  where  the  nour- 
ishment of  children  is  to  be  attend- 
ed to. 

Potage  k la  Crecy.  See  Soups. 

a la  Reine. 

..  k la  Xavier. 

Brunaise. 

Velours. 


272 


Potatoes 


POULTRY 


Poule-au-Pot 


Potatoes. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  potatoes  will  be  found  un- 
der their  respective  headings  as  indi- 
cated : 

Potatoes,  Muffins.  See  Bread. 

and  Eggs.  See  Eggs. 

..  Omelet. 

..  Fritters.  See  Fritters. 

..  Pudding.  See  Puddings  ; 

also  Vegetables. 
..  Salad.  See  Salads  ; also 
Vegetables. 

..  Souffle.  See  Souffles. 

..  Soup.  See  Soups, 

a la  Creme.  See  Vegetables. 
k la  Duchesse. 
k la  Maitre 
d’Hotel. 

Balls. 

Boiled. 

Bread. 

Broiled. 

Browned. 

Cakes. 

Croquettes. 

Fried. 

Housekeeper's. 


Potatoes,  Lyonnaise.  See  Vegetables. 
Mashed. 

Miroton  of. 

Moulded,  with 
Cheese  Sauce. 

..  New  Boiled. 

Parisian. 

Patties. 

Puree  of. 

..  Ribbons. 

..  Saratoga. 

..  Scalloped,  with  Sauce 
Piquante. 

..  Snow. 

Stewed. 

..  Straw. 

Stuffed. 

Potted  Cheese.  See  Cheese. 

Potted  Eggs.  See  Eggs. 

Potted  Meats. 

See  Beef,  Meats,  Mutton,  etc. 

Poule-au-Pot  (Mile.  Frangoise’s). 

See  Soups. 


POU 

General  Directions  for  Preparing 
Fowls  for  Baking  or  Roasting. — 
Fowls  to  be  tender  should  be  killed 
two  days  before  they  are  cooked. 
When  plucked,  .singed,  and  drawn, 
rub  clean  outside,  and  wipe  inside 
with  a wet  cloth.  Cut  off  the  heads, 
and  skewer  the  skin  of  the  neck  down 
the  back.  Cut  the  skin  of  the  leg  at 
the  joint,  bend  it  back,  and  run  a fork 
under  each  sinew  and  draw  it  out. 
Then  cut  off  the  leg.  This  leaves  the 
drumstick  in  eatable  condition.  Turn 
the  pinions  under ; run  a skewer 
through  them;  skewer  also  the  legs 
firmly  to  the  sides  of  the  fowls,  run- 
ning each  skewer  through  the  body  to 
the  leg  and  pinion  on  the  other  side, 
one  skewer  securing  both  pinions  and 
another  both  legs.  Tie  the  legs  firm- 
ly to  the  sides.  When  prepared,  singe, 
and  wipe  clean.  Stuffing  made  of 
18  2 


LTRY 

grated  bread  - crumbs,  sweet  herbs, 
pepper  and  salt,  and  one  well-beaten 
egg  should  be  put  inside  of  each  fowl. 
Chestnuts  or  oysters  or  onions  are 
also  used  as  a stuffing,  which  can 
be  varied  to  taste.  Butter  the  skin 
slightly,  and  dredge  on  a little  flour; 
bake  in  a slow  oven,  or  roast  before  a 
fire  until  a fork  thrust  in  the  breast 
will  not  draw  blood.  Then  butter  the 
outside  again,  dredge  on  more  flour, 
quicken  the  oven,  and  brown.  Serve 
with  rich-made  gravy,  using  the  gib- 
lets. The  age  of  poultry  makes  all  the 
difference — nothing  is  tenderer  than  a 
young  chioken  ; few  things  are  tough- 
er than  an  old  cock  or  hen,  which 
is  only  fit  to  make  broth.  The  me- 
ridian of  perfection  of  poultry  is  just 
before  they  have  come  to  their  full 
growth,  before  they  have  begun  to 
harden.  In  a young  chicken  the  end 


Chicken  in  Aspic 


POULTRY 


Chicken,  Breaded 


of  the  breast-bone  is  soft  and  bends 
easily.  The  older  the  fowl  the  harder 
the  breast-bone.  If  poultry  is  to  be 
boned  it  is  not  drawn. 

How  to  Make  a Tough  Fowl  Tender. 
— Truss  the  fowl  as  usual,  and  then 
infold  it  completely  in  two  thick- 
nesses of  wrapping  - paper,  securely 
fastening  the  paper  with  a piece  of 
string.  The  fowl  may  now  be  put 
in  the  oven,  and  roasted  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  At  the  end 
of  this  time  the  paper  is  removed 
and  the  chicken  returned  to  the  oven 
and  roasted  as  long  as  would  have 
been  necessary  had  it  been  tender  in 
the  beginning.  It  must  be  basted 
often,  and  turned  occasionally.  When 
done,  it  should  be  as  toothsome  as 
a young  chicken. 

Chicken  in  Aspic. — Boil  a good- 
sized  chicken  until  tender,  and  let  it 
become  cool.  Strain  the  liquor  and 
clear  it  by  bringing  it  to  a boil  with  the 
white  and  shell  of  an  egg,  skimming, 
and  straining  again  through  a flannel. 
Season  well  with  onion-juice  (use  this 
with  discretion),  celery  salt,  and  white 
pepper.  (The  usual  soup  vegetables 
should  have  been  cooked  with  the 
chicken  in  the  first  place.)  Heat  it 
again,  and  stir  into  a quart  of  the 
liquid  half  a box  of  gelatine  which  has 
been  soaked  in  a little  cold  water. 
When  this  is  dissolved,  set  all  aside 
to  cool.  Cut  the  chicken  into  dice. 
If  you  have  any  cold  tongue  or  ham, 
cut  from  it  several  small  disks.  When 
the  jelly  begins  to  form,  wet  a number 
of  timbale  moulds  with  cold  water,  lay 
a disk  of  the  tongue  or  ham  in  the  bot- 
tom of  each,  pour  in  a little  of  the  as- 
pic, fill  the  cup  loosely  with  the  chick- 
en dice,  and  pour  in  as  much  more 
jelly  as  the  mould  will  hold.  Set  on 
the  ice  to  form  ; serve  surrounded  with 
lettuce.  Mayonnaise  dressing  may 
be  passed  with  it.  If  preferred,  the 
chicken  may  be  formed  in  one  large 
mould. 

Chicken,  Boiled,  with  Pease.  — 

Singe  and  draw  a tender  chicken  of 
about  3 lbs.  Cut  it  in  each  joint,  make 


four  pieces  of  the  breast,  and  cut  the 
chicken  in  six  pieces.  Wipe  off  the 
pieces  with  a wet  and  clean  towel.  Cut 
in  small  dice  lb.  of  bacon,  boil  it  in 
a little  water  for  ten  minutes,  drain  it 
and  put  it  in  a sautoir  with  half  a ta- 
ble-spoonful of  butter,  add  the  chicken, 
and  let  it  brown  all  over  for  ten  min- 
utes. Pour  over  it  one  quart  of  warm 
broth;  add  a small  bouquet  of  two 
sprigs  of  parsley,  a very  small  bay- 
leaf,  one  clove,  two  medium-sized  white 
onions,  half  a salt-spoonful  of  pepper, 
no  salt ; cook  fifteen  minutes  with  cov- 
ered saucepan.  Add  then  one  quart 
of  freshly  'shelled  pease,  and  cook 
slowly  for  forty -five  minutes.  Ar- 
range the  chicken  on  a warm  plat- 
ter, the  body  pieces  first,  the  legs 
around  the  breast,  and  wings  on  top; 
reserve  the  gravy.  Put  the  chicken 
in  the  oven  while  finishing  the  gravy. 
Mix  well  half  a table-spoonful  of  butter 
with  half  a table-spoonful  of  flour; 
keep  the  gravy  over  the  fire;  add  the 
mixed  flour  to  it  while  stirring ; mix 
well ; do  not  let  boil.  Remove  the 
bouquet,  serve  the  pease  and  bacon 
around  the  chicken,  pour  the  gravy 
over,  and  serve  very  hot.  If  broth  is 
not  at  hand,  one  coffee-spoonful  of 
beef  extract  diluted  in  a quart  of  warm 
water  will  take  the  place  of  broth,  but 
add  one  salt-spoonful  of  salt.  Canned 
pease  could  be  used,  but  fresh  ones,  of 
course,  are  much  better.  Drain  the 
canned  pease  and  wash  them  in  cold 
water;  drain  again,  and  add  to  the 
chicken  five  minutes  before  serving. 

Chicken,  Boned. — Take  an  old  hen 
and  boil  it  in  water  until  the  bones 
drop  out,  and  chop  fine ; put  it  back 
on  the  fire  in  a little  of  the  water  in 
which  it  was  boiled,  with  I oz.  of  gela- 
tine previously  dissolved  in  a little 
cold  water;  season  very  highly  in 
whatever  way  you  like,  and  cook 
gently  for  a few  minutes.  Turn  out 
into  a shape  or  mould,  and  serve  cold. 

Chicken,  Breaded. — Singe  and  draw 
a spring  chicken.  Cut  it  into  four 
pieces.  Melt  one  table-spoonful  of  but- 
ter, and  blend  with  it  one  teaspoonful 


274 


Chicken,  Broiled 


POU  LTR.Y 


Chicken,  Celeried 


of  salt  and  one  salt-spoonful  of  pep- 
per ; roll  each  part  of  the  chicken  in 
this,  and  afterwards  in  beaten  egg. 
Bread  each  piece  of  chicken,  put  them 
in  a well-buttered  pan,  and  pour  over 
one  table -spoonful  of  melted  butter. 
Cook  in  a hot  oven  twenty  minutes. 

Cut  two  white  hearts  of  lettuce  into 
four  parts,  wash,  and  tie  up  to  avoid 
breaking.  Boil  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Drain,  and  plunge  them  quickly  into 
cold  water.  Put  them  into  a clean 
saucepan,  with  sufficient  broth  to  cov- 
er them,  and  cook  thirty  minutes  in 
covered  pan.  Take  out  and  drain  the 
lettuce  well,  pressing  gently.  Keep 
warm  while  sauce  is  being  made. 
Add  to  the  stock  in  which  the  lettuce 
has  been  cooked  one  gill  of  good 
cream,  and  cook  slowly  for  five  min- 
utes. Mix  half  a table -spoonful  of 
fresh  butter  with  one  teaspoonful  of 
flour,  and  blend  to  a smooth  paste. 
Remove  the  saucepan  from  the  stove, 
and  add  this  mixture  to  the  stock 
already  in  it,  stirring  so  as  to  mix 
well.  Strain,  and  serve  in  a hot 
sauce-boat. 

Chicken,  Broiled  (with  tomato 
sauce). — Split  a small  spring  chicken 
down  the  back,  twist  the  tips  of  the 
wings  over  the  second  joint,  wipe  dry, 
and  break  the  breast-bone  with  a roll- 
ing-pin. Lay  on  a greased  broiling- 
iron,  and  set  over  a clear  fire ; turn 
often  to  prevent  burning.  Sprinkle 
with  pepper  and  salt.  When  done, 
put  on  a heated  dish,  pour  over  melted 
butter,  and  serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

Chicken  Broth.  — This  may  be 
made  from  the  inferior  joints  of  a 
fowl.  Roast  it  for  twenty  minutes 
before  putting  it  to  boil ; by  this 
means  the  flavor  will  be  improved. 
Generally  speaking,  a quart  of  water 
may  be  allowed  for  a medium-sized 
fowl.  Put  it  into  cold  water,  with 
very  little  salt  and  no  pepper,  as 
these  are  better  added  afterwards. 
Simmer  very  gently  for  a couple  of 
hours,  and  skim  the  liquid  carefully 
as  it  comes  to  a boil.  If  there  is 
time,  pour  it  out,  let  it  get  cold,  re- 


move every  particle  of  fat,  and  boil 
it  up  again.  Chicken  broth  may  be 
thickened  with  rice,  oatmeal,  or  pearl 
barley,  and  these,  besides  making 
it  more  nutritious,  will  absorb  a por- 
tion of  the  chicken  fat  and  make  it 
smoother  and  lighter  of  digestion.  A 
piece  of  beef  put  in  with  the  chicken 
is  an  improvement. 

Chicken  en  Casserole. — Clean  and 
truss  a young  chicken  as  for  roast- 
ing. In  a broad  casserole  with  a top 
put  a sliced  carrot  and  an  onion,  a 
sprig  of  thyme,  a stalk  of  celery,  and 
two  table  - spoonfuls  of  butter.  Set 
the  casserole  on  top  of  the  stove,  and 
let  the  vegetables  brown  in  the  butter 
for  about  ten  minutes.  Add  to  them 
a pint  of  brown  stock,  very  well 
seasoned  with  salt,  white  pepper,  and 
paprika;  lay  in  the  chicken,  cover 
the  casserole,  put  it  in  the  oven,  and 
keep  at  a steady  heat  for  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour.  When  the  chicken 
has  been  cooking  half  an  hour,  add 
to  the  gravy  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
sherry,  a table-spoonful  of  mushroom 
catsup,  and  cover  again.  Fifteen  min- 
utes later  drop  into  the  gravy  a couple 
of  dozen  Parisian  potato  balls  that 
have  been  sauted  in  butter,  and  as 
many  French  mushrooms,  each  cut 
in  half.  Leave  the  casserole  uncov- 
ered in  the  oven  for  fifteen  minutes,  or 
until  the  chicken  is  browned ; sprinkle 
over  this  a table-spoonful  of  parsley, 
minced  fine,  and  send  to  table  in  the 
casserole. 

Chicken,  Celeried.  — Take  a few 
pieces  of  cold  roast  or  boiled  chicken 
or  turkey,  such  as  remain  after  the 
portion  presentable  in  slices  has  been 
removed ; chop  them  very  fine.  To 
each  table-spoonful  of  meat  allow  a 
table-spoonful  of  cream ; season  with 
pepper,  salt,  a little  nutmeg,  and  cel- 
ery seed,  or  celery  salt.  Put  the  cream 
and  seasoning  into  a saucepan,  and 
let  it  come  to  a boil.  Stir  in  the  chick- 
en, remove  from  the  fire,  and  beat 
till  frothy.  Pile  strips  of  toast  in  a 
hollow  square  on  a hot  plate,  and  fill 
the  centre  with  the  celeried  chicken. 


275 


Chicken  Consomme 


POULTRY 


Chicken  Croquettes 


Chicken  Consomme. — Take  a 4-lb. 
chicken  and  a small  knuckle  of  veal. 
Cut  up  the  meat  and  the  bones.  Put 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  in  a 
soup-kettle,  and  .set  over  the  fire  to 
brown  ; put  in  the  meat,  and  stir  for 
five  minutes.  Cover  the  kettle,  and 
let  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Pour 
in  half  a gallon  of  cold  water,  and  let 
simmer  slowly  for  two  hours.  Add 
one  sliced  carrot,  one  stalk  of  cel- 
ery, one  sliced  onion,  a sprig  of  pars- 
ley, and  a bay  - leaf ; simmer  one 
hour  longer.  Strain  and  set  aside 
until  cold.  Skim  off  the  fat  and  re- 
heat. 

Chicken,  Creamed. — Cut  one  pint 
of  cold  chicken  and  one  cupful  of 
mushrooms  into  small  pieces.  Heat 
one  pint  of  cream  in  a chafing-dish 
over  the  hot-water  pan ; add  one  level 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  stirred  smooth 
in  cold  milk.  When  boiling  hot,  add 
the  chicken  and  mushrooms ; season 
with  salt,  pepper,  onion  - juice,  and 
chopped  parsley.  Serve  at  once. 

Chicken  (Creole  fashion).  — Singe 
and  clean  a large  fowl,  wash  it  in 
cold  water,  drain  and  dry  well  with  a 
clean  towel.  Truss  it  tightly  as  for 
roasting,  so  as  to  give  it  a plump 
shape.  Put  the  chicken  in  a soup- 
kettle  with  I lb.  of  raw  bacon,  /4  lb. 
of  raw,  lean  ham,  one  veal  knuckle. 
Cover  with  four  quarts  of  cold  water. 
Put  the  kettle  over  a brisk  fire,  and 
watch  for  the  boiling-point  in  order 
to  skim  then ; do  this  carefully. 
When  the  first  scum  has  been  re- 
moved put  in  half  a glassful  of  cold 
water.  Repeat  three  times  the  same 
operation.  Season  then  with  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  salt-spoonful 
of  black  pepper,  four  large  carrots, 
four  medium-sized  white  turnips,  one 
pint  of  white  onions,  half  a green 
pepper  cut  in  small  pieces,  three 
medium-sized  tomatoes,  peeled,  seeds 
removed,  and  the  pulp  cut  in  small 
pieces.  Add  a large  bouquet  of 
three  sprigs  of  white  celery  without 
the  leaves,  two  leeks,  four  sprigs 
of  parsley,  one  bay-leaf,  three  cloves 


stuck  in  one  onion,  a very  small 
branch  of  thyme.  Cook  in  a covered 
kettle  two  hours  after  the  seasoning, 
and  then  remove  the  fowl  and  the 
bacon.  Lift  up  the  rind  of  the  bacon 
and  drain  in  a colander.  Slice  it 
then  in  pieces  a quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  put  them  into  a saucepan  with 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  and 
brown  them  slightly  on  each  side. 
Remove  from  the  saucepan  and  place 
the  chicken  in  the  same  gravy  until 
brown  all  over.  Strain  one  and  a half 
quarts  of  the  broth  and  add  it  to  the 
chicken  and  the  sliced  bacon.  Add 
also  four  levelled  spoonfuls  of  rice 
well  washed  and  drained.  Cook  thirty 
minutes  in  a covered  saucepan.  Dish 
up  the  chicken  in  a warm  platter; 
arrange  the  rice  around  it,  putting 
the  sliced  bacon  over  the  rice,  and  the 
remaining  half  of  raw,  green  pepper 
cut  in  small  strips.  Do  the  same 
thing  with  one  raw  tomato,  mixing 
the  colors.  Serve  at  once  very  hot. 
Finish  the  soup  with  the  remainder 
of  the  broth,  strain  it,  rinse  the  kettle, 
and  put  the  broth  back  into  it.  Cut 
the  meat  of  the  veal  knuckle,  and 
also  the  vegetables,  in  small  dice. 
Put  everything  into  the  broth;  add 
one  dozen  of  medium  - sized  okras 
well  washed  and  cut  in  small  pieces. 
Have  half  a dozen  large,  live  hard- 
shell crabs.  Trim  off  the  claws, 
and  cut  them  across  in  two.  Wash 
them  well.  Cook  twenty-five  minutes, 
and  serve  this  savory  soup  very  hot, 
with  crabs  and  all.  Some  rice  could 
be  added  to  it. 

Chicken  Croquettes.  — The  meat 
of  a grown  pullet,  five  oysters,  and  a 
sweetbread  chopped  fine ; a large 
table-spoonful  of  butter  melted  in  a 
saucepan  over  a slow  fire ; a table- 
spoonful of  flour  stirred  to  a cream 
in  the  hot  butter.  Add  a gill  of 
cream,  and  stir  it  five  minutes. 
After  thus  stirring  the  meat  and 
cream  together,  put  in  two  well-beaten 
eggs  and  stir  two  minutes  longer. 
Season  to  the  taste  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  a little  celery  seed,  or  any  minced 
herb  that  you  fancy.  Roll  the  prep- 


Chicken,  Curry  of  Spring  POU  LTR  Y 


Chicken,  Fried 


aration  into  pieces  the  shape  of  an 
egg,  then  roll  in  cracker-crumbs  after 
dipping  in  egg,  and  fry  in  hot  lard. 
Garnish  the  dish  either  with  curled 
lettuce  leaves  or  parsley. 

Another  way  : — One  cold  boiled 
chicken,  two  sets  of  calves'  brains, 
one  large  table  - spoonful  of  flour, 
one  pint  of  cream,  half  a cupful  of 
butter,  one  table-spoonful  of  parsley 
chopped  fine,  one  level  table-spoonful 
of  ground  mace,  juice  of  one  lemon, 
pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg  to  suit  the 
taste.  Chop  all  very  fine.  Put  the 
butter  in  a pan  with  the  flour,  and 
when  it  bubbles  add  the  cream  gradu- 
ally, then  the  chopped  mixture,  and 
stir  till  the  dish  is  thoroughly  heat- 
ed. Take  from  the  fire  and  add  the 
lemon- juice,  and  set  away  to  cool. 
Roll  into  shape  with  cracker-crumbs 
and  egg.  All  the  crumbs  should  be 
salted  and  peppered. 

Chicken,  Curry  of  Spring.  — Cut 

three  large  slices  of  bacon;  put  in  a 
pot  with  two  onions  and  three  potatoes, 
sliced  ; let  fry  until  half  done.  Add  two 
3roung  chickens  cut  in  pieces,  cover 
with  water,  season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  let  cook  till  done.  Mix  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  curry  powder,  add 
to  the  chicken,  let  boil,  skim  out  the 
pieces  of  pork,  have  a dish  of  rice,  pour 
the  chicken  and  gravy  over.  Serve 
with  young  corn. 

Chicken,  Fricassee  of  Spring. — Cut 

in  pieces  as  for  frying  ; put  in  a sauce- 
pan with  liver  and  gizzard;  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  parsley.  Cover 
with  water,  and  let  boil  until  tender; 
take  up.  Thicken  the  gravy  with 
a table  - spoonful  of  flour  rubbed  in 
2 ozs.  of  butter;  let  come  to  a boil; 
add  a cupful  of  cream  and  a gill  of 
wine.  Put  the  chicken  back  into  the 
sauce,  let  stand  over  the  fire  two  or 
three  minutes,  and  serve. 

Chicken,  Fried. — Clean  and  singe 
a good,  fat  fowl  from  4 to  5 lbs.  in 
weight,  and  wipe  fowl  inside  and  out- 
side with  a clean  towel  dipped  in  cold 
water.  Put  in  a brasier  % lb.  of  lard- 


ing-pork, chopped  fine ; place  the  fowl 
in  this,  and  let  it  brown  all  over  for 
twelve  minutes,  not  too  fast,  and  with 
uncovered  saucepan.  Have  ready  one 
fresh  calf’s  foot  split  in  four  pieces  ; 
wash  it  in  cold  water  and  drain  it. 
Put  it  in  one  quart  of  cold  water  with 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  let  it  boil 
for  ten  minutes ; drain  and  add  it  to 
the  fowl  with  Y\  lb.  of  raw  bacon  cut 
in  small  squares,  and  seasoned  with 
half  a table-spoonful  of  salt,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  black  pepper,  a bouquet  of 
one  bay-leaf,  four  sprigs  of  parsley, 
one  small  branch  of  celery,  one  very 
small  one  of  thyme,  one  onion  with 
two  cloves  and  one  garlic  clove  stuck 
into  it.  Pour  over  it  half  a pint  of  or- 
dinary white  wine  and  one  quart  of 
broth.  Place  a piece  of  white  paper, 
well  buttered,  over  the  saucepan,  and 
put  the  cover  on  and  cook  one  hour 
and  a half,  not  too  fast ; then  add  one 
quart  of  small  carrots,  well  cleaned, 
five  medium-sized  white  onions,  and 
half  a gill  of  brandy.  Cover  again 
tightly  and  cook  one  hour  more,  hav- 
ing care  to  turn  the  fowl  three  times 
during  the  cooking.  Dress  the  fowl 
on  a hot  platter.  Put  aside  the  calf’s 
foot  and  remove  the  bones  from  it. 
It  is  served  separately  when  cold  with 
slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs  and  a F rench 
dressing.  Strain  the  gravy,  remove 
all  the  fat  from  the  surface,  and  pour 
over  the  fowl.  This  dish  is  also  very 
good  cold.  A turkey  prepared  in  the 
same  way  is  most  profitable  and  inex- 
pensive, but  it  requires  one  and  one- 
half  hours  more  of  cooking  and  the 
addition  of  one-third  more  of  season- 
ing. If  no  broth  is  at  hand,  one  tea- 
spoonful of  beef  extract  diluted  in  one 
quart  of  warm  water  will  serve  the 
same  purpose,  and  will  not  in  any 
way  impair  the  quality  of  the  result. 

Chicken,  Fried  (with  cream  gravy). 
— Cut  up  two  tender  spring  chickens, 
roll  in  flour,  dredge  with  pepper  and 
salt.  Have  a frying-pan  ready  half 
full  of  boiling  lard,  in  which  drop  the 
pieces  of  chicken.  Fry  brown.  Take 
up  on  a heated  dish,  and  set  to  keep 
warm.  Pour  a teacupful  of  rich  milk 


277 


Chicken  Gumbo 


POU  LTRY 


Chickens,  Spring 


into  the  frying-pan,  stir  in  a table- 
spoonful of  flour  and  butter  each ; 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a table- 
spoonful of  minced  parsley.  Let  come 
to  a boil,  and  pour  over  the  chickens ; 
garnish  with  curled  parsley. 

Chicken  Gumbo.  See  Soups. 

Chicken  Gumbo  (file  a la  Creole). — 
Put  a table-spoonful  of  pork  drippings 
in  a pot ; when  hot,  add  a table-spoon- 
ful of  flour;  stir  until  brown;  slice 
an  onion,  and  fry ; skim  out.  Have 
a chicken  cut  in  pieces,  put  in  the  fat, 
and  fry  brown.  Pour  boiling  water 
in  to  cover ; stir,  and  let  simmer.  Add 
the  fried  onion,  a quart  of  sliced  okra, 
eight  cloves,  a pod  of  red  pepper,  and 
a bunch  of  sweet  herbs.  Let  boil 
slowly  for  two  hours.  When  ready 
to  serve,  stir  in  a table  - spoonful  of 
file.  Take  up  and  serve  with  plain 
boiled  rice.  See  also  Soups. 

Chicken  Jellied. — Put  the  chicken 
in  a stewpan  with  enough  water  to 
cover  it.  Let  it  come  to  a boil,  then 
push  it  back  on  the  stove  and  let  it 
simmer  until  it  is  very  tender.  Take 
it  out  and  let  it  cool.  When  the 
water  is  cold  take  off  the  fat,  clarify 
the  liquor,  season  it  to  taste,  and 
add  one  box  of  gelatine  to  three  pints 
of  the  liquor.  Then  pour  it  into 
a double  mould  so  that  there  may  be 
a thickness  of  one-half  to  one  inch  of 
jelly  on  bottom  and  sides.  Fill  it 
with  the  chicken  freed  from  skin, 
bones,  and  fat,  and  seasoned ; or,  cut 
the  chicken  in  slices  and  garnish  with 
a border  of  aspic  jelly.  Serve  with 
mayonnaise,  tartare,  or  other  suit- 
able sauce. 

If  veal  is  boiled  with  the  chicken 
the  liquor  will  jelly  of  itself,  and  the 
gelatine  may  be  omitted.  If  no 
double  mould  is  at  hand,  take  two 
dishes  or  forms  or  moulds,  one  of 
which  is  about  an  inch  smaller  in 
diameter  than  the  other.  In  such  a 
case  place  the  larger  mould  on  ice 
and  pour  in  enough  jelly  to  cover 
the  bottom  one  inch  deep.  Then, 
take  the  smaller  mould,  fill  it  with 


ice,  place  it  in  the  larger  mould,  and 
fill  the  space  between  the  two  with 
the  jelly.  When  set,  take  the  ice 
out  of  the  smaller  mould  and  pour 
in  a little  warm  (not  boiling)  water 
and  lift  out  the  smaller  mould  as 
quickly  as  possible. 

Chickens,  Spring,  with  Lettuces. — 

Cut  the  feet  and  heads  off  three  spring 
chickens,  singe  them,  remove  the 
short  quills  with  a pointed  knife. 
Draw  them  by  a small  opening  cut 
under  the  breast-bone  near  the  second 
joint.  Clean  them  inside  with  a wet 
towel.  Wipe  them  all  over,  but  do  not 
wash  them.  With  a trussing-needle 
pass  a fine  twine  through  the  legs  to 
bring  them  close  to  the  body ; tie  them 
from  the  back.  Cut  the  ends  of  the 
wings.  Open  the  skin  from  the  back 
of  the  neck  to  the  shoulders,  in  order 
to  remove  the  neck ; then  fold  the  skin 
over  the  back,  turn  the  wings  also  on 
the  back,  and  pass  the  twine  through 
them  to  hold  them  tightly.  Tie  them 
on  the  back.  Put  in  a skillet  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter.  When  hot, 
put  in  the  chickens,  cook  them  for  fif- 
teen minutes  slowly,  and  not  covered, 
until  nicely  brown  all  over.  Pour 
over  them  one  pint  of  good,  warm  beef 
broth.  Add  half  of  a bay-leaf,  two 
sprigs  of  parsley,  one  clove,  one  small 
white  onion.  Season  with  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  half  a salt-spoon- 
ful of  pepper.  Cover  the  saucepan; 
cook  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes.  The 
lettuces,  cooked  as  follows,  must  be 
already  prepared  : Pare  off  the  tough 
part  of  three  large  lettuces ; clean  them 
well ; cut  them  in  halves.  Tie  each 
half  with  a string,  put  them  in  plenty 
of  boiling  water,  boil  thirty  minutes, 
remove  them,  drain  them,  and  plunge 
in  cold  water ; drain  again,  and  squeeze 
them  gently  to  take  the  water  out. 
Then  when  you  add  the  beef  broth  to 
the  chickens  add  also  the  lettuces; 
let  them  cook  thirty  minutes,  basting 
from  time  to  time.  Remove  the  chick- 
ens on  to  a warm  platter  and  cut  the 
strings  off.  Cut  the  strings  also  from 
the  lettuces.  Dress  them  around  the 
chickens,  place  the  platter  in  the  oven. 


278 


Chicken,  Parisian 


POU  LTR  Y 


Chicken,  Pressed 


and  leave  the  door  open  while  finish- 
ing the  sauce.  Mix  one  large  table- 
spoonful of  good  butter  with  half  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour ; add  it  to  the 
gravy,  stirring  all  the  time.  Heat  it, 
but  do  not  boil.  Pour  it  over  the 
chickens  through  a fine  strainer. 
Serve  very  hot. 

Chicken,  Parisian.  — Singe  and 
draw  a tender  chicken  of  2 to  2 x/z  lbs. ; 
split  from  the  back,  and  wipe  off 
inside  and  outside  with  a clean,  wet 
towel.  Cut  it  in  every  joint ; cut  the 
breast  in  two,  lengthwise,  and  then 
make  six  pieces  out  of  it ; cut  the 
body  in  the  same  number  of  pieces. 
Put  in  a skillet  or  in  a casserole  one 
table-spoonful  of  butter,  place  over 
a brisk  fire ; when  melted  and  hot 
put  in  all  the  pieces  of  the  chicken, 
taking  care  to  put  the  dark  meat  in 
first.  Toss  them  so  that  all  the 
pieces  shall  become  of  a golden  color. 
Five  minutes  after  add  half  a table- 
spoonful of  shallots  or  white  onions, 
chopped  fine ; stir  well ; season  with 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper.  After  two  min- 
utes add  % lb.  of  nice,  fresh  mush- 
rooms previously  peeled,  washed,  cut 
in  slices,  and  dried  in  a towel.  Add 
two  table  - spoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine 
and  half  a table-spoonful  of  parsley, 
chopped  fine.  Mix  everything  well. 
Cook  three  minutes  more.  Remove 
from  the  fire  and  add  immediately 
this  liaison,  previously  prepared  : Put 
in  a bowl  yolks  of  three  raw  eggs, 
mix  them  well  with  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  good  cream.  Pour  over  the 
chicken  and  stir  gently.  Serve  very 
hot.  When  cooking  it  in  a chafing- 
dish  it  takes  five  minutes  longer. 

Chicken  Patties. — Take  the  breast 
of  a boiled  chicken;  cut  into  small 
pieces.  Put  a teacupful  of  chicken 
broth  in  a small  saucepan  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  boiled  beef  tongue, 
minced  fine ; set  over  the  fire  to  sim- 
mer. Melt  a table-spoonful  of  butter ; 
add  a table-spoonful  of  flour,  and  mix 
smooth ; strain  the  broth  over  it,  and 
pour  in  half  a teacupful  of  cream; 


set  over  the  fire  to  cook  until  thick ; 
add  the  chicken;  let  heat;  beat  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs  and  stir  in;  take 
from  the  fire,  fill  the  patty  cases  with 
the  mixture,  put  on  the  tops,  and 
serve. 

Chicken  Pie. — Take  a fat  young 
chicken,  cut  in  pieces,  put  in  a sauce- 
pan, cover  with  boiling  water,  and 
let  simmer  one  hour.  Line  a tin  pan 
with  plain  paste,  put  a layer  of  sliced 
potatoes  in  the  bottom,  then  a layer 
of  chicken  and  a sprinkle  of  chopped, 
lean  ham ; cover  with  small,  thin 
squares  of  paste,  then  more  potatoes, 
chicken,  and  ham;  to  the  last  layer 
add  bits  of  butter,  a table  - spoonful 
of  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 
Roll  out  a thin  top  crust,  make  a hole 
in  the  centre,  put  over,  press  the 
edges  together,  and  trim.  Bake  for 
half  an  hour ; serve  with  sauce  made 
of  the  chicken  broth. 

Chicken  Pie  (old  Virginia).  — Line 
a deep  pan  with  plain  biscuit  dough. 
Have  two  spring  chickens  cut  in 
pieces ; put  in  the  pan  with  thin 
slices  of  fat  bacon,  a pint  of  cream, 
a teacupful  of  stale  bread-crumbs,  a 
pint  of  boiling  water,  the  yolks  of 
three  hard-boiled  eggs,  salt  and  pep- 
per. Cover  with  a top  crust,  and  bake 
slowly  for  two  hours. 

Chicken,  Pressed. — For  either  lunch 
or  tea  this  will  be  found  excellent.  In 
cold  weather  a quantity  can  be  made, 
as  it  will  keep  a week ; and  in  sum- 
mer, if  placed  in  the  refrigerator,  it 
will  be  as  good  at  the  end  of  three  or 
four  days  as  at  first.  Cut  the  chicken 
the  same  as  for  a stew.  Skin  the  feet, 
and  put  in  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan, 
so  as  to  extract  the  gluten ; then  place 
the  remainder  of  the  fowl  on  top,  and 
boil  in  a small  quantity  of  water 
until  tender.  Take  out  the  bones, 
separating  the  dark  meat  from  the 
light.  Throw  away  the  feet.  Mince 
the  skin  of  the  chicken,  with  the  liver, 
heart,  and  gizzard.  Make  a dressing 
of  stale  bread,  finely  crumbed  and 
seasoned;  add  a small  quantity  of 


279 


Chicken  Pudding 


POULTRY 


Chicken  Stew 


butter,  moisten  slightly  with  hot 
water,  and  the  finely  chopped  heart, 
etc.  Arrange  the  large  pieces  of  meat 
around  the  sides  and  bottom  of  a 
baking  - dish,  alternating  the  dark 
and  light,  that  it  may  appear  marbled  ; 
then  put  in  a layer  of  the  dressing, 
then  of  the  small  pieces  of  meat, 
until  the  dish  is  full.  Remove  the 
fat  from  the  water  in  which  the  chick- 
ens were  boiled,  and  after  allowing 
it  to  cool,  to  see  if  it  has  the  consist- 
ency of  jelly,  heat  to  boiling-point, 
and  pour  over  the  chicken,  etc.,  while 
hot.  Have  a plate  which  fits  in  the 
dish,  put  on,  and  subject  it  to  a heavy 
weight  for  a few  hours,  and  when 
cold  it  will  be  ready  to  turn  out. 

Chicken  Pudding  (an  old  Virginia 
dish). — Cut  up  a young  chicken,  stew 
until  tender.  Take  up,  lay  on  a 
dish,  season  with  pepper  and  salt. 
Make  a thick  batter.  Butter  a pud- 
ding-dish, arrange  pieces  of  chicken 
in  the  bottom,  cover  with  batter,  lay 
over  more  chicken,  pour  over  batter, 
and  continue  until  the  dish  is  full. 
Set  in  the  oven  and  bake  brown. 
Serve  with  butter  sauce. 

Chicken,  Ragout  of. — This  recipe 
may  be  followed  with  almost  any 
kind  of  poultry  or  game.  Partially 
roast  the  bird  in  the  usual  way.  When 
it  is  half  dressed,  take  it  down,  and, 
if  liked,  divide  it  into  joints,  or  it 
may  be  stewed  whole.  Put  it  into  a 
stewpan  with  any  bones  or  trimmings 
that  may  be  at  hand,  a large  onion 
stuck  with  two  cloves,  the  thin  rind 
of  a quarter  of  a lemon,  rolled,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  allspice,  half  a tea- 
spoonful of  whole  pepper,  as  much 
stock  — or,  failing  this,  water  — as 
will  cover  the  ingredients,  and  a little 
salt,  if  required.  Simmer  all  very 
gently  till  the  bird  is  done  enough, 
then  pour  off  the  liquor  and  keep 
the  bird  hot.  Strain  the  gravy,  and 
skim  the  fat  from  it.  Dissolve  2 ozs. 
of  butter  in  a stewpan,  and  mix 
smopthly  with  it  as  much  flour  as 
will  make  it  into  a paste ; add  gradu- 
ally the  hot  liquor,  a dessert-spoonful 


of  lemon- juice,  and  a glass  of  port  or 
claret.  Let  it  boil  a minute  or  two. 
Put  the  meat  on  a dish,  pour  the  hot 
gravy  over  it,  garnish  with  toasted 
sippets,  and  serve  very  hot.  If  liked, 
chilli  vinegar  can  be  substituted 
for  the  lemon-juice.  The  remains  of 
cold  poultry  may  be  served  in  the 
same  way,  but  the  meat  will  not  be  so 
succulent  as  it  would  be  if  it  were 
only  partially  roasted  before  it  was 
stewed.  Time,  varying  with  the 
size  and  age  of  the  bird. 

Chicken,  ^Rissoles  of.  — Cut  very 
young  spring  chicken  in  small  pieces. 
Roll  out  squares  of  puff  paste  very 
thin,  wrap  the  pieces  of  chicken  in 
them,  and  fry  brown.  Put  in  a deep 
dish,  cover  with  vinegar  and  salad  oil, 
add  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  stand  one 
hour.  Prepare  egg  batter,  dip  each 
piece  of  chicken  in  it,  drop  in  boiling 
lard,  and  brown.  Take  up  on  a flat 
dish,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve 
hot. 

Chicken  Salad  in  Green  Peppers. 

— Prepare  a chicken  salad  of  equal 
parts  of  celery  and  the  white  meat  of 
roast  or  boiled  chicken.  Both  should 
be  shredded  fine.  Just  before  they 
are  to  go  to  table,  season  them  with 
pepper  and  salt,  and  mix  with  them 
enough  mayonnaise  dressing  to  coat 
each  fragment  thoroughly.  Have 
ready  good-sized  green  peppers,  from 
which  the  blossom  end  has  been 
sliced  off.  Take  out  the  contents  of 
the  peppers,  stand  them  upright  on 
the  stem  ends,  and  fill  them  with  the 
chicken  salad,  capping  each  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  thick,  yellow  mayon- 
naise. Place  them  on  a napkin  laid 
on  a platter ; or,  if  you  serve  them  on 
individual  plates,  have  a little  white 
doily  under  each  pepper.  See  also 
Salads. 

Chicken  Souffle.  See  Souffles. 

Chicken  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Chicken  Stew. — Take  two  young 
chickens,  cut  up,  put  in  a saucepan 


Chicken,  Supreme  of 


POULTRY 


Duck,  Roast 


with  water  to  cover  and  a little  salt, 
let  stew  until  tender,  add  a table- 
spoonful of  minced  parsley  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  minced  onion.  Soak 
two  pods  of  red  pepper  in  water,  strain 
the  juice  into  the  stew,  add  a table- 
spoonful of  butter  rolled  in  flour.  Fill 
a vegetable-dish  with  boiled  rice, lay  the 
chicken  on  top,andpour  the  gravy  over. 

Chicken,  Supreme  of.  — Cut  cold 
roast  or  boiled  chicken  into  neat  slices, 
lay  it  in  a shallow  dish,  and  pour  over 
it  salad  oil  in  the  proportion  of  a 
table-spoonful  of  oil  to  e^ery  cupful  of 
the  chicken.  Let  it  lie  in  this  half  an 
hour.  Cook  together  a table-spoon- 
ful each  of  butter  and  flour  until  they 
bubble ; turn  on  them  half  a pint  of 
cream  and  half  a teaspoonful  of  onion- 
juice;  add  the  chicken  and  what  oil 
has  not  been  absorbed ; let  all  get  hot, 
and  season  with  white  pepper,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  ordinary  salt,  and  a 
quarter  of  a teaspoonful  of  celery  salt. 
Serve.  This  may  be  cooked  in  a 
chafing-dish. 

Chicken  a la  Terrapin. — Take  a 
nice,  fat  chicken,  weighing  about  4 
lbs.,  and  put  it  into  a pot,  with  enough 
cold  water  to  cover  it.  Cover  the  pot, 
and  let  the  chicken  simmer  till  done ; 
then  remove  it  from  the  broth,  and, 
when  cold,  tear  the  meat  f romthe  bones, 
and  cut  it  into  small  blocks.  Put  the 
broth  back  on  the  stove,  and  into  it 
put  a little  summer-savory,  marjoram, 
sage,  thyme,  two  or  three  bay-leaves, 
a little  black  pepper,  salt,  some  sprigs 
of  parsley,  a small  piece  of  onion,  a 
slice  of  lemon,  and  a few  mushrooms. 
Let  the  broth  cook  till  it  is  thorough- 
ly flavored  with  the  herbs.  Thicken 
with  a little  flour  and  a good-sized 
piece  of  butter  creamed  together.  Add 
a teacupful  of  cream,  and  then  the 
chicken.  Take  out  the  parsley,  bay- 
leaves,  and  lemon,  and  put  in  the  crum- 
bled yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs ; 
and,  lastly,  enough  sherry  wine  to  suit 
the  taste.  Serve  veryhot  in  a deep  dish . 

Chicken  and  Turnip-tops. — Put  a 
fowl  into  a pot  of  cold  water,  and  let 


it  boil  so  thoroughly  that  the  bone 
may  be  slipped  out  with  ease.  Boil 
gently  for  six  hours ; a half-hour  be- 
fore the  time  for  serving  it,  throw  in 
the  turnip-tops.  Let  them  boil  until 
done ; then  place  the  fowl  in  the  mid- 
dle of  a flat  meat-dish,  and  garnish  it 
with  the  salad.  As  an  indispensable 
accompaniment,  there  must  be  corn- 
dodgers boiled  likewise  in  the  same  pot, 
or  corn -bread  baked  in  small  pones, 
and  served  very  hot. 

Duck  with  Celery.  — Draw  and 
dress  a spring  duck.  Put  in  a sauce- 
pan one  and  a half  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  and  when  melted  put  the 
duck  in,  turning  frequently  till  it 
is  a rich  golden  brown.  Fifteen 
minutes  should  suffice.  Take  out 
the  duck,  and  add  to  the  butter  one 
and  a half  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
Stir  five  minutes,  then  add  slowly, 
stirring  constantly,  one  quart  of  good 
stock  that  has  been  warmed.  Boil 
five  minutes,  put  in  the  duck,  with 
half  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  a pinch  of 
pepper,  a bouquet  of  two  bunches  of 
parsley,  half  a bay-leaf,  a tiny  sprig 
of  thyme,  two  large  onions,  with 
two  cloves.  Cover  the  saucepan 
closely,  and  cook,  not  too  fast,  for 
forty-five  minutes.  Remove  the  duck 
from  the  saucepan  to  a platter,  take 
off  the  strings,  and  set  in  the  oven 
with  door  open  to  keep  warm.  Have 
ready  a large  bunch  of  white  celery 
which  has  been  washed  and  stripped 
of  green  stalks  and  cut  into  pieces 
two  fingers  in  length.  Boil  the 
celery  thirty  minutes  in  three  quarts 
of  water  with  half  a table  - spoonful 
of  salt.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and 
dry  with  a napkin  before  returning 
it  to  the  boiling  sauce  of  the  duck, 
and  cook  for  ten  minutes  more.  Re- 
move and  place  around  the  duck, 
pouring  the  sauce  through  a small 
strainer  over  all.  Serve  very  hot. 
Remove  any  fat  from  the  gravy  with 
a piece  of  soft  bread. 

Duck,  Roast.  — Choose  two  small, 
young  ducks.  If  not  already  pre- 
pared, they  must  be  plucked,  singed. 


281 


Duckling 


POULTRY 


Goose,  Roast 


and  emptied,  the  feet  scalded,  skinned, 
and  twisted  round  on  the  back  of  the 
bird ; head,  neck,  and  pinions  cut  off , 
the  latter  at  the  first  joint,  and  all 
skewered  firmly  to  give  the  breast  a 
nice,  plump  appearance.  Stuffing  as 
preferred.  (See  Force-meats  and  Stuff- 
ings.) Sift  a little  flour  over  it. 
Serve  with  a good  brown  gravy  in 
the  dish,  and  apple  sauce  in  a tureen. 
Time:,  ducks,  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  to  an  hour ; ducklings,  twenty- 
five  to  thirty-five  minutes. 

Duckling. — Cut  off  the  head  and 
feet  of  a fat  young  duck.  Singe 
and  draw.  Reserve  the  liver.  Split 
the  skin  at  the  back  of  the  neck, 
which  cut  very  short.  Dip  a clean 
towel  in  cold  water,  and  wipe  the 
prepared  duck  inside  and  out.  Dust 
inside  with  one  salt-spoonful  of  salt 
and  one  of  pepper.  Fold  the  skin 
back  from  the  slit  that  has  been  made 
in  the  neck,  wash,  and  put  the  liver 
inside.  Truss  the  legs  with  a truss- 
ing-needle  close  to  the  body,  fold 
the  wings  on  the  back,  and  dust  all 
over  one  salt-spoonful  of  salt  and 
half  as  much  pepper.  Butter  a 
baking -pan  well.  Place  the  duck 
in  it,  with  two  table  - spoonfuls  of 
broth,  and  cover  with  a well-buttered 
piece  of  white  paper.  Cook  in  hot 
oven  for  thirty  minutes.  Remove 
it,  put  on  platter,  and  place  where  it 
will  keep  warm.  Add  to  the  gravy 
in  the  roasting-pan  the  juice  of  two 
oranges  and  the  peel  of  one  cut  into 
strips ; also  the  juice  of  half  a lemon, 
one  gill  of  Madeira,  and  a liqueur 
glass  of  cura£oa.  Cook  in  the  oven 
for  ten  minutes.  Now  add,  as  a 
finish,  one  table-spoonful  of  butter 
blended  well  with  one  teaspoonful  of 
flour.  Mix  with  the  gravy  by  stir- 
ring. Do  not  cook.  Serve  in  a sauce- 
boat very  hot.  If  curafoa  is  not  at 
hand,  it  may  be  omitted. 

Goose  Livers  a la  T oulouse. — Put  in 

a chafing-dish  half  a teaspoonful  of 
flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  butter,  and 
mix  well  for  two  minutes.  Pour 
over  slowly,  while  stirring,  one  gill  of 


Madeira  wine,  six  table  - spoonfuls 
of  glace  de  viande,  or  one  good  tea- 
spoonful of  beef  extract  melted  in  one 
gill  of  hot  water ; add  one  shallot. 
Boil  slowly ; cover  over  for  eight 
minutes.  Add  half  a teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  one  small  pinch  of  pepper. 
Put  in  the  liver  last,  taking  care  that 
the  flame  is  not  too  high ; the  liver 
should  only  be  warmed  through. 
After  five  minutes  add  half  a can 
of  truffles,  peeled  and  sliced,  cooking 
three  minutes  and  basting.  Serve 
hot. 

Goose,  Pkt€  de  Foie  Gras.  — 

, These  pasties,  so  highly  esteemed  by 
epicures,  are  made  at  Strasburg, 
and  thence  exported  to  various  parts. 
They  are  prepared  from  the  livers  of 
geese  which  have  been  tied  down 
for  three  or  four  weeks  to  prevent 
them  moving  and  forcibly  com- 
pelled to  swallow,  at  intervals,  a 
certain  amount  of  fattening  food. 
When  they  have  become  so  fat  that 
they  would  die  in  a short  time,  they 
are  killed,  and  their  livers,  which 
have  become  very  rich,  fat,  and  pale 
during  the  process,  are  used  in  mak- 
ing these  pates. 

Goose  Patd  (imitation).  — Take 
the  livers  of  four  fowls,  and  four 
gizzards,  three  table  - spoonfuls  of 
melted  butter,  a chopped  onion, 
one  table-spoonful  of  Worcestershire 
sauce ; salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Boil 
the  livers  until  done ; drain  and  wipe 
them  dry.  When  cold,  rub  them  to 
a paste.  Simmer  together  butter 
and  chopped  onion  for  ten  minutes ; 
strain  and  mix  with  the  seasoning ; 
mix  well.  Butter  a small  jar,  and 
press  the  mixture  as  tightly  as  pos- 
sible into  it,  placing  in  the  mixture 
small  pieces  of  the  gizzards  to  imitate 
truffles.  Cover  with  melted  butter. 

Goose,  Roast.  — A roast  goose 
is  generally  filled  with  sage-and-onion 
stuffing.  If  a strong  flavor  of  onion 
is  liked,  the  onions  should  be  chopped 
raw.  If  not,  they  should  be  boiled  in 
one,  two,  or  three  waters,  and  mixed 


282 


LSee  p.  183 

PIGEONS  WITH  YOUNG  GREEN  PEASE 


[See  p.  283 

BONELESS  TURKEY  STUFFED  WITH  TRUFFLES 


STUFFED  SHOULDER  OF  LAMB 


[See  p.  232 


Pigeons 


POULTRY 


Turkey,  Broiled 


with  a smaller  or  larger  proportion  of 
bread-crumbs.  It  should  be  remem- 
bered, when  bread-crumbs  are  used, 
room  should  be  allowed  for  swelling. 
Truss  the  goose  firmly,  tie  the  open- 
ings securely,  and  baste  it  plentifully. 
A goose  is  both  unwholesome  and 
unpalatable  if  insufficiently  cooked. 
Send  good  gravy,  and  either  apple 
or  tomato  sauce,  to  table  with  it. 
Garnish  with  lemon.  Time,  from  an 
hour  and  a half  to  two  hours  and  a 
half. 

Pigeons.  See  Game. 

Squabs.  See  Game. 

Turkeys.  — A hen  turkey  is  the 
best,  and  it  should  be  young  and 
plump.  If  young,  the  legs  will  be 
black  and  smooth.  If  fresh,  the  eyes 
will  be  bright  and  the  feet  supple.  The 
length  of  the  spur  will  show  whether 
or  not  a cock  turkey  is  young.  A 
moderate  - sized  turkey  is  more  like- 
ly to  be  tender  than  a very  large 
one. 

Turkey,  Boneless  Stuffed. — Pre- 
pare the  turkey  the  day  before,  as  the 
truffles  will  thus  give  more  fragrance 
to  the  meat.  Singe  a young  turkey 
of  about  io  lbs. ; cut  the  head  off, 
leaving  the  whole  neck ; cut  the  feet 
in  the  joints.  Cut  the  skin  open  from 
the  back,  beginning  at  the  neck. 
With  a sharp-pointed  knife  detach 
the  flesh  from  the  carcass  all  around  ; 
remove  the  bones  from  the  second 
joints,  leaving  the  bone  of  the  drum, 
also  the  bone  of  the  wings.  Be  care- 
ful not  to  split  the  skin  when  detach- 
ing the  breast-bone.  The  whole  car- 
cass will  come  out  easily,  and  also 
the  intestines.  Spread  open  the  tur- 
key over  the  table,  and  remove  the 
under  fillet  from  the  breast.  Sprinkle 
the  inside  with  half  a teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  one  salt-spoonful  of  pepper. 
For  stuffing : chop  very  fine  2 lbs. 
of  veal  cutlets  and  1 lb.  of  larding- 
pork.  Soak  in  some  good  broth  one 
quart  of  fresh  bread-crumbs.  Squeeze 
well  and  add  to  the  meat.  Put  every- 


thing in  a large  bowl  to  mix.  Wash 
in  cold  water  1 lb.  of  truffles,  peel 
them,  chop  the  parings,  put  them  with 
the  truffles  in  a small  saucepan  with 
half  a pint  of  cooking  wine,  four 
shallots  or  two  white  onions  sliced  ; 
cook  and  toss  for  five  minutes ; drain 
off,  remove  the  shallots,  and  add  the 
chopped  parings  to  the  stuffing.  Then 
cut  ten  slices  from  the  largest  truf- 
fles one  - eighth  of  an  inch  thick ; 
set  them  aside.  Cut  all  the  remain- 
ing ones  of  even  size  like  hazel-nuts; 
add  them  to  the  stuffing  with  one 
table  - spoonful  of  chopped  parsley 
Season  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  salt-spoonful  of  pepper;  add  two 
egg  yolks  and  one  white,  and  mix 
well  again.  Pass  a blunt  knife  under 
the  skin,  and  raise  it  enough  to  slip 
the  sliced  truffles  under.  Now  put 
a third  part  of  the  stuffing  inside  of 
the  turkey ; pack  it  well  with  the  back 
of  a spoon ; put  the  under  fillets  over, 
and  finish  with  the  balance  of  the 
stuffing.  Close  the  boneless  turkey, 
and  with  white  thread  stitch  the  skin 
all  along  the  back  and  at  the  neck. 
Fold  the  wings  back,  and  with  a 
trussing-needle  and  twine  secure  them 
to  the  body ; do  the  same  thing  with 
the  legs,  so  that  the  turkey  shall 
retain  its  shape.  Rub  over  it  one  tea- 
spoonful of  salt  and  one  salt-spoon- 
ful of  pepper;  place  it  in  the  roast- 
ing - pan  with  a gill  of  broth ; then 
lay  all  over  it  thin  slices  of  fat  pork. 
Roast  in  warm  oven  for  two  hours ; 
after  the  first  hour  baste  thiee  times. 
Cut  the  twine,  remove  the  larding- 
pork,  and  serve  on  a platter  with 
a border  of  water -cress.  Strain  the 
gravy  and  serve  in  a sauce  - boat. 
Truffles  may  be  omitted,  and  oysters 
added  instead. 

Turkey,  Broiled. — Singe  a young 
turkey  of  3 ^ to  4 lbs.  in  weight.  Cut 
the  feet.  The  neck  must  be  cut  short, 
leaving  the  skin  long  enough  to 
protect  the  breast.  Split  the  turkey 
from  the  back,  and  way  down,  without 
separating ; with  a wet  towel  wipe  it 
well  all  over ; then  flatten  it  gently 
so  as  to  give  a nice  shape.  If  too 


283 


Turkey,  Devilled 


POULTRY 


Turkey,  Roast 


large  to  be  broiled  whole  separate  the 
two  halves.  Butter  it  well  all  over 
on  both  sides  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter.  Season  all  over  with  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  salt-spoon- 
ful of  pepper.  Place  it  over  the  broiler, 
the  inside  part  to  cook  first ; cook  fif- 
teen minutes,  turn  it  over,  put  a little 
more  butter  on  the  top,  then  cook 
twelve  minutes.  Serve  with  two  paper 
ruffles  at  the  tips  of  the  wings  and  two 
on  the  legs.  While  the  turkey  is  broil- 
ing, chop  one  table-spoonful  of  pars- 
ley and  one  of  the  tender  white  part 
of  celery.  Mix  them  well  with  two 
table- spoonfuls  of  fresh  butter  and 
half  a teaspoonful  of  lemon  - juice. 
Divide  in  six  small  balls  and  serve 
at  the  same  time.  Dress  the  turkey 
on  a hot  platter,  with  a few  celery 
leaves  around  it. 

Turkey,  Devilled. — Take  a cooked 
leg  of  turkey ; slash  it  to  the  bone ; 
salt  and  pepper  it  well,  using  both 
black  and  cayenne;  mix  some  made 
mustard  with  flour,  and  plaster  it 
over  the  leg ; place  it  on  a gridiron, 
and  broil  over  a clear  fire. 

Turkey,  Galantine  of. — Select  a fat 
young  turkey.  After  dressing,  take  off 
the  neck,  wings,  and  legs  ; cut  the  fowl 
in  two  down  the  back;  begin  at  the 
edge  and  cut  the  meat  from  the  bones, 
keeping  the  skin  whole  ; cut  the  fillets 
from  the  breast-bone  without  breaking 
the  skin ; remove  the  bones  from  both 
sides  of  the  turkey  and  spread  the 
skin  out  on  a clean  meat-board.  Pre- 
pare a dressing  of  I lb.  of  sausage, 
one  teacupful  of  bread-crumbs,  two 
well-beaten  eggs,  the  juice  of  a lemon, 
a table-spoonful  of  minced  parsley, 
with  pepper  and  salt.  Spread  over 
the  skin,  roll  up,  draw  together,  and 
sew ; wrap  in  a cloth,  and  put  fn  a soup- 
kettle  with  the  bones  and  scraps  of  the 
turkey  one  onion,  a dozen  cloves,  a 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  half  a dozen 
peppercorns.  Cover  with  cold  water, 
set  over  a moderate  fire,  bring  slowly 
to  a boil,  skim,  and  let  simmer  gently 
for  four  hours.  Take  the  kettle  from 
the  fire,  and  stand  it  aside  until  cold. 


Then  take  the  galantine  up  on  a large, 
flat  dish.  Put  a weight  on  it,  and  let 
stand  overnight.  In  the  morning  re- 
move the  cloth  carefully,  brush  the 
galantine  over  with  beaten  egg,  dust 
with  grated  cracker,  and  set  in  the 
oven  to  brown.  Take  out,  and  stand 
in  a cold  place  until  ready  to  serve. 
Garnish  with  aspic  jelly,  slice  very 
thin,  and  serve  with  a portion  of  the 
jelly. 

Turkey,  Minced. — When  a turkey 
has  been  so  far  used  that  neat  slices 
cannot  be  cut  from  it  to  make  a hash, 
the  remains  may  be  minced.  Season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  grated  nutmeg, 
and  put  it  into  a stewpan  with  suf- 
ficient white  sauce  to  moisten  it.  Let 
it  simmer  gently  without  boiling  till  it 
is  quite  hot,  stirring  all  the  time. 

Turkey,  Roast. — Select  a fat  young 
turkey.  Stuff  with  a dressing  made 
of  a pint  of  stale  bread-crumbs,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  a teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  half  a teaspoonful  of  black 
pepper,  and  a table  - spoonful  of 
minced  sweet  herbs,  moistened  with 
a little  hot  water.  Place  on  a rack 
in  a dripping-pan,  spread  with  bits  of 
butter,  baste  frequently  while  cook- 
ing with  melted  butter.  Roast  un- 
til a rich  brown.  Serve  with  giblet 
gravy  and  cranberry  sauce. 

Another  way  : — Wash  the  fowl  well, 
inside  and  out;  take  a small,  stale 
loaf  of  bread,  crumble  it  very  fine, 
rub  in  it  Y/\  lb.  of  sweet  butter,  season 
well  with  pepper,  salt,  and  celery 
seed ; put  no  water,  except  to  moisten 
the  crumbs ; add  a few  nice  oysters. 
Stuff  the  turkey  until  well  filled ; 
rub  the  whole  over  with  sweet  lard. 
It  is  then  ready  for  the  oven.  Put  a 
little  water  in  the  pan  to  prevent 
burning,  and  baste  frequently  with 
the  gravy  while  cooking.  A large 
turkey  will  require  two  and  a half 
hours'  cooking. 

Another  way  : — Singe  and  draw  a 
young  turkey  of  about  7 lbs.,  and 
wipe  inside  and  out  with  a wet  towel. 
Leave  the  skin  of  the  neck  very  long, 
but  cut  the  neck  short,  the  skin  being 


Turkey,  Sauces  for 


POU  LTRY 


Prawns  in  Shells 


necessary  for  holding  the  stuffing. 
Sprinkle  inside  the  turkey  with  one 
salt-spoonful  of  salt  and  half  a .salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  fill  up  the  neck 
first  very  full  with  the  stuffing  pre- 
ferred, stitch  the  skin  over  its  back 
with  white  thread,  put  the  balance  of 
the  stuffing  inside,  stitch  it  also,  and 
truss  it  very  tightly,  passing  a truss- 
ing - needle  with  twine  through  the 
wings  and  body,  and  in  the  same  way 
through  the  legs.  Sprinkle  over  it 
half  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper;  butter  thickly  a 
roasting-pan,  put  the  turkey  in,  with 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  broth,  and  cov- 
er it  with  a piece  of  white  paper  well 
buttered.  Roast  for  one  hour  and 
thirty  minutes  in  moderate  oven ; 
baste  after  the  first  half-hour  every 
twenty  minutes;  fifteen  minutes  be- 
fore it  is  done  remove  the  paper,  and 
add  one  pound  of  Chipolata  sausages 
in  the  roasting  - pan,  pricking  them 
with  a fork.  Serve  the  turkey  on 
a warm  platter,  with  the  sausages 
around;  strain  the  gravy,  remove  the 
fat,  and  serve  at  the  same  time  in  a 
sauce-boat.  Ordinary  sausages  may 
be  prepared  in  the  same  way  as  the 
Chipolata,  simply  dividing  them  in 
three  parts  with  a strong  white  thread, 
and  then  cutting  them. 

Turkey,  Sauces  for.  — Brown 
gravy  and  bread  sauce  are  the  usu- 
al accompaniments  to  roast  turkey. 
Oyster  sauce,  celery  sauce,  tomato 
sauce,  mushroom,  chestnut,  and  truf- 
fle sauce,  are  all  suitable  accompani- 
ments. With  boiled  turkey,  celery 
sauce,  oyster  sauce,  bread  sauce,  or 
white  sauce  should  be  served.  The 
nature  of  the  sauce  should,  of  course, 
be  regulated  by  that  of  the  stuffing. 

Turkey  Stuffing. — Force-meat  stuff- 
ings of  veal,  ham,  bacon,  onions, 
potatoes  mushrooms,  etc.,  cAn  be 


used,  but  the  ordinary,  old-fashioned 
stuffing  for  a turkey  is  generally  liked. 
Take  the  soft  part  of  good,  light 
bread  (not  the  crust),  and  do  not 
wet  it,  as  is  usually  done,  but  rub  it 
dry  and  fine,  and  work  into  it  a piece 
of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg.  Season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  summer-savory. 
Add  to  this  a dozen  or  more  oysters, 
whole,  and  it  will  be  very  fine.  Some 
cooks  add  to  the  stuffing  large  chest- 
nuts boiled  in  a saucepan  to  burst 
the  skins  ; they  are  then  boiled  in  very 
salt  water  or  stock  ; then  mixed  with  the 
stuffing  whole.  See  also  Force-meats. 

Turkey,  Chestnut  Stuffing  for.  — 

Take  as  many  sound  chestnuts  as 
will  completely  fill  the  body  of  the 
bird.  Make  a small  gash  with  a sharp 
knife  in  the  outer  skin  to  keep  them 
from  bursting,  throw  them  into 
plenty  of  fast-boiling  water,  and  let 
them  boil  until  soft.  Drain  and  dry 
them,  and  peel  off  the  outer  and  the 
inner  skin ; look  them  over  carefully, 
and  reject  any  decayed  or  mouldy 
nuts.  Fill  the  turkey’s  crop  with 
good  veal  force  - meat,  afterwards 
fill  the  body  of  the  bird  with  the 
boiled  chestnuts  and  the  liver,  and 
sew  it  up  securely.  Put  it  down 
to  roast,  and  baste  liberally.  Serve 
with  brown  gravy,  and  either  bread 
sauce  or  onion  sauce.  The  brown 
sauce  may  be  made  with  the  turkey 
giblets  as  follows  : Mince  the  heart 

and  gizzard,  and  let  them  simmer 
gently  for  an  hour  or  more.  Skim 
the  liquor,  strain  it,  thicken  with  a 
little  brown  thickening,  and  season 
with  pepper  and  salt.  Add  a glassful 
of  claret — which  may  be  omitted  if 
not  desired — and  a table- spoonful  of 
mushroom  catsup ; let  it  boil  a minute 
or  two,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  serving. 
Time  to  roast  the  turkey,  an  hour 
and  a half  to  two  hours  and  a half, 
according  to  size. 


See  Gravies.  Prairie  Chicken. 

See  Grouse,  under  Game. 
See  Cakes.  Prawns  in  Shells,  See  Fish. 

285 


Poultry,  Gravy  for. 
Pound  Cake. 


Apple  Butter 


PRESERVES,  ETC 


Apple  Butter 


PRESERVES,  JAMS,  MARMALADES,  FRUIT 
JELLIES,  ETC. 


First  of  all  the  range  fire  should  be 
permitted  to  go  out  and  a gas-stove, 
or  one  for  gasoline,  or  even  kerosene, 
substituted.  The  expense  of  one  of 
these  is  small,  and  it  will  be  saved  in 
the  cost  of  coal  and  wood  in  a few 
days’  time,  while  the  saving  of  ex- 
haustion from  heat  is  incalculable. 
Then,  if  you  have  old-fashioned  cans 
with  metal  tops,  you  will  do  well  to 
lay  in  a supply  of  the  newer  ones, 
which  have  the  glass  covers  and  the 
tighter  and  simpler  fastenings ; the 
old  ones  need  not  be  thrown  away,  but 
kept  for  the  richest  of  the  preserved 
fruit,  which  is  not  hurt  by  a possible 
admission  of  air.  Next,  see  to  your 
rubbers.  Economy  here  is  impossi- 
ble, for,  once  used,  every  rubber  loses 
its  elasticity  and  becomes  untrustwor- 
thy ; have  a new  band  for  every  can. 
The  preserving-kettle  should  be  of 
iron,  porcelain  lined;  the  agate  ones 
sometimes  used  are  better  than  tin, 
certainly,  but  they,  too,  may  burn, 
while  the  iron  will  not.  Have  several 
wooden  spoons,  a wooden  pestle — a 
potato-masher  will  do — a cup  with  an 
easy  handle,  pans  for  holding  sugar, 
and  a simple  and  accurate  scale  for 
weighing,  and  your  utensils  are  ready. 
Home-made  preserves  are  both  a con- 
venience and  a luxury.  They  require 
time  and  labor  at  the  warmest  sea- 
son of  the  year,  but  when  well  made 
they  are  superior  to  those  bought  at 
the  stores,  and  much  more  econom- 
ical. 

Fruit  should  be  almost,  but  not  ab- 
solutely ripe,  fresh,  sound,  and  dry. 
Use  the  best  sugar.  If  the  syrup  is 
to  be  clear,  clarify  it  by  putting  two 
quarts  of  sugar  with  one  quart  of 
wa+?r,  into  which  stir  the  whites  of 
two  eggs  which  have  been  beaten 
light,  but  not  to  a froth.  Heat  slow- 
ly, stirring  frequently  until  it  boils, 
then  let  it  simmer  half  an  hour, 
when  the  white  sgpm  can  be  removed. 


The  juice  of  the  fruit  may  be  used 
instead  of  water.  Many  cooks  add 
a little  lemon- juice  to  pear,  plum,  and 
crab-apple  preserves.  A syrup  made 
from  the  juice  of  acid  fruits  (currants, 
green  grapes,  etc.)  is  frequently  used 
to  preserve  sweet  fruits  — strawber- 
ries, apples,  pears,  etc.  If  a quantity 
of  syrup  is  left  over  it  may  be  used  to 
make  jelly.  The  question  of  covering 
jellies  or  jams  is  one  to  be  considered. 
The  old  way  was  to  use  a layer  of  thin 
paper  dipped  in  brandy,  and  then  a 
cover  of  thicker  paper,  pasted  down. 
The  newer  method  is  to  pour  melted 
paraffin  over  the  jellies  without  any  pa- 
per whatever.  But  while  paraffin  pre- 
vents the  admission  of  air  if  it  is  per- 
fect, it  will  slip  up  the  side  of  the  glass 
if  that  is  tipped,  and  it  is  quite  sure  to 
be,  in  putting  it  on  the  closet  shelf; 
then,  too,  mice  are  especially  fond  of 
paraffin,  and  one  nibble  destroys  the 
entire  cover.  The  best  plan  is  to  com- 
bine the  two  ways.  Cover  the  jelly  or 
jam  with  paraffin  first,  and  then  paste 
paper  over  the  top,  and  you  may  feel 
secure  that  it  will  not  shrink  or  lose  its 
freshness  from  first  to  last. 

Apple  Butter.  — Apples  pared, 
cored,  cut,  and  boiled  in  sweet  cider 
till  the  whole  is  a dark,  rich  pulp 
and  the  cider  is  reduced  one-half. 
To  prevent  burning  stir  continually 
No  sugar  Is  needed,  for  the  fruit 
furnishes  its  own  sweetness.  Half 
the  apples  may  be  sour  and  half 
sweet  or  all  sweet,  as  one  likes. 
It  takes  nearly  two  gallons  of  cider 
to  make  one  of  apple  butter,  and 
spices  are  added,  or  not,  to  taste, 
the  rule  being  one  table-spoonful  of 
cinnamon  and  one-third  of  a tea- 
spoonful of  ground  cloves  to  each 
gallon  of  apple  butter,  added  when  it 
is  taken  up  boiling  hot.  It  may  be 
kept  in  barrels,  stone  pots,  or  butter 
firkins. 


286 


Apple  Jam 


PRESERVES,  ETC  . Blackberries,  etc. 


Apple  Jam.  — Weigh  equal  quan- 
tities of  brown  sugar  and  good  sour 
apples ; pare,  core,  and  chop  them 
fine ; make  a syrup  of  the  sugar,  and 
clarify  it  very  thoroughly  ; then  add 
the  apples,  the  grated  rind  of  two 
lemons,  and  a little  white  ginger ; boil 
until  it  looks  clear  and  yellow. 

Apple  Jelly.  — Pare,  core,  and 
slice  3 lbs.  of  apples.  Put  them  into 
a stewpan  with  a teacupful  of  water. 
When  reduced  to  a pulp,  put  them 
into  a jelly-bag  and  let  them  drain 
all  night ; they  must  not  be  squeezed. 
Next  morning  put  the  juice  into  a 
saucepan,  being  careful  not  to  put 
any  sediment  with  it,  adding  i lb. 
of  sugar  to  a pint  of  juice,  and  a few 
drops  of  the  essence  of  vanilla.  Boil 
it  until  it  will  stiffen  when  cold ; cover 
the  jars  as  soon  as  possible.  The 
pulp  may  be  made  into  jam.  Time 
to  boil  with  the  sugar,  about  twenty 
minutes. 

Apple  Marmalade  is  more  diffi- 
cult to  make  than  that  of  other  large 
fruits.  The  best  cooking  - apples 
should  be  selected  for  the  purpose, 
and  those  of  a tart  flavor  will  be 
found  best.  The  cores  and  seeds 
should  be  removed,  but  the  fruit  must 
not  be  pared.  After  preparing,  weigh 
the  apples,  put  in  a preserving-kettle, 
cover  with  water,  and  cook  very  slow- 
ly until  soft ; strain ; return  the  pulp 
to  the  kettle  with  $4  lb.  of  sugar  for 
every  pound  of  apples ; set  over  the 
fire,  and  let  cook  very  slowly  until 
thick  and  clear ; flavor  with  lemon 
or  orange  juice.  Put  in  small  jars. 
Two  or  three  quinces  cut  up  and  added 
to  the  apples  will  cause  the  marmalade 
to  be  finer,  without  imparting  any 
flavor  to  it. 

Apples  Preserved  Whole.  — Peel 
and  core  large,  firm  apples  (pippins 
are  best).  Throw  them  into  water 
as  3mu  pare  them.  Boil  the  parings 
in  water  for  fifteen  minutes,  allow- 
ing a pint  to  I lb.  of  fruit.  Then 
strain,  and,  adding  % lb.  of  sugar  to 
each  pint  of  water,  as  measured  at 


first,  with  enough  lemon-peel,  orange- 
peel,  or  mace  to  impart  a pleasant 
flavor,  return  to  the  kettle.  When 
the  syrup  has  been  well  skimmed 
and  is  clear,  pour  it  boiling  hot  over 
the  apples,  which  must  be  drained 
from  the  water  in  which  they  have 
hitherto  stood.  Let  them  remain  in 
the  syrup  until  both  are  perfectly  cold. 
Then,  covering  closely,  let  them  sim- 
mer over  a slow  fire  until  transparent. 
When  all  the  minutiae  of  these  direc- 
tions are  attended  to,  the  fruit  will 
remain  unbroken  and  present  a beau- 
tiful and  inviting  appearance. 

Apple  Raisine.  — Take  six  fine, 
large  cooking-apples,  peel  them,  put 
them  over  a slow  fire,  together  with 
a wineglassful  of  Madeira  wine  and 
x/z  lb.  of  sugar.  When  well  stewed, 
split  and  stone  2x/z  lbs.  of  raisins,  and 
put  them  to  stew  with  the  apples  and 
enough  water  to  prevent  their  burn- 
ing. When  all  appears  well  dis- 
solved, beat  it  through  a strainer  bowl, 
and. lastly  through  a sieve.  Mould 
it,  if  you  like,  or  put  away  in  small 
preserve  jars,  to  cut  in  thin  slices  for 
the  ornamentation  of  pastry,  or  to 
dish  up  for  eating  with  cream. 

Apricot  Paste.  See  Fruits. 

Barberry  Preserve.  — -Four  quarts 
of  barberries  picked  from  the  stem, 
washed  and  drained.  Heat  one  large 
quart  of  molasses  and  one  quart  of 
white  sugar  together  until  the  sugar 
is  dissolved.  Skim,  and  then  add 
the  berries.  Cook  until  they  begin 
to  pop  and  shrivel,  which  will  be 
in  about  ten  minutes.  Skim  them 
out  into  a stone  jar,  then  boil  the 
syrup  slowly  until  it  will  cover  the 
berries. 

Blackberries  or  Raspberries  Pre- 
served Whole. — Select  fruit  that  is  not 
too  ripe,  pick  it,  weigh,  and  put  into 
glass  jars,  filling  each  one  two-thirds 
full.  Put  in  a saucepan  i lb.  of  sugar 
and  one  cupful  of  water  for  every 
2 lbs.  of  fruit,  and  let  it  come  slowly 
to  a boil.  Pour  this  hot  syrup  into 


Cherries,  Brandied  PRESERVES,  ETC 


Cranberry  Jelly 


the  jars  over  the  berries,  filling  them 
to  the  brim.  Place  the  jars  in  a boiler 
containing  cold  water,  and  let  the 
water  come  to  a boil,  and  when  the 
fruit  is  scalding  hof  take  out  the 
jars  and  cover  them  air-tight. 

Cherries,  Brandied.  — Weigh  the 
finest  morellos,  having  cut  off  half  the 
stalk ; prick  them  with  a new  needle, 
and  drop  them  into  a jar  or  a wide- 
mouthed bottle;  pound  three-fourths 
of  their  weight  of  rock  candy,  strew 
over,  fill  up  with  white  brandy,  and 
tie  a bladder  over. 

Cherries,  Preserved. — The  fighter 
colored  the  more  sugar  they  take. 
Stone  them,  and  let  them  stand  all 
night.  In  the  morning  take  the  juice, 
add  sugar  to  taste,  add  water,  if  there 
is  not  juice  enough,  and  boil  and  skim 
till  it  is  a rich  syrup ; if  the  cherries  are 
sweet,  a pint  of  juice  and  three  quar- 
ters of  a pint  of  sugar  will  be  about 
right.  Heat  your  cans  and  put  in  the 
uncooked  cherries  till  they  are  nearly 
full,  and  then  pour  over  them  the 
syrup  and  put  on  the  covers ; set  the 
cans  in  the  wash-boiler  and  fill  it  with 
very  hot  water,  and  let  it  all  stand  all 
night.  The  heat  of  the  syrup  and  that 
of  the  water  will  cook  the  fruit,  but  the 
flavor  and  color  will  be  those  of  the 
fresh  and  uncooked  cherries.  This 
way  may  be  used  for  all  small  fruits 
except  strawberries. 

Another  way : — For  this  select  a 
sour  cherry — the  morellos,  if  you  can 
get  them.  To  every  pound  of  stoned 
cherries  allow  i lb.  of  sugar.  Lose 
none  of  the  juice.  Arrange  fruit  and 
sugar  in  alternate  layers  in  an  agate- 
iron  or  porcelain-lined  preserving-ket- 
tle ; let  it  stand  an  hour  or  two  to  draw 
out  the  juice,  then  put  it  over  the  fire 
and  boil  slowly  and  steadily  until  the 
juice  thickens.  Put  up  the  preserves 
in  small  glass  jars  and  keep  in  a dark 
closet. 

Citron -melon  Preserve.  — Cut  the 

melon  in  slices  of  about  an  inch  in 
thickness.  Remove  the  rind  and  soft 
part  which  contains  the  seeds ; boil  in 


water  in  which  a small  piece  of  alum 
has  been  thrown  qntil  the  fruit  is  soft 
enough  to  allow  a straw  to  be  run 
through.  Remove,  and  place  on  a 
sieve  to  drain.  Allow  3 lbs.  of  best 
white  sugar  to  4 lbs.  of  the  fruit,  and 
put  into  the  preserving-kettle  with  the 
sugar.  If  it  seems  too  dry,  add  a lit- 
tle water.  Let  it  cook  slowly,  and 
when  nearly  done  add  a lemon  in  thin 
slices  and  free  of  seeds.  If,  when  the 
fruit  is  done,  the  syrup  is  too  thin, 
put  the  fruit  into  jars  and  allow  the 
syrup  to  boil  until  of  the  proper  thick- 
ness. Pour  it  hot  over  the  citron,  and 
seal  aH  up. 

Crab' apples. — This  fruit  may  be 
preserved  with  the  peel  on,  and  is 
just  as  good  in  the  estimation  of  most 
people.  Flavor  a pint  of  water  by 
boiling  in  it  a small  stick  of  cinna- 
mon, a bit  of  white  ginger,  and  three 
or  four  cloves.  Strain  these  off, 
and  make  into  a syrup  by  boiling 
in  it  x/2  lb.  of  white  sugar.  Let  it 
remain  until  cold.  Take  a pint  of 
the  little  apples,  wipe  them  well 
with  a cloth,  prick  them  with  a needle 
near  the  stalks,  and  put  them  into  the 
stewpan  with  the  syrup,  to  get  hot 
together.  Remove  it  from  the  fire, 
pour  it  off  irito  a basin,  let  it  stand 
to  get  cold,  repeating  the  process 
three  times.  When  the  fruit  looks 
clear,  take  it  out,  put  it  into  jars,  and 
pour  the  syrup  over  it.  It  will  do  no 
harm  if  a day  elapses  between  each 
of  the  boilings.  Most  beautiful  jelly 
is  made  with  the  juice  of  these  apples ; 
almost  as  good  as  currant  jelly  to 
eat  with  mutton  or  venison.  Three- 
quarters  of  a pound  of  sugar  is  enough 
to  allow  to  a pint  of  juice.  About  a 
week  after  they  have  been  put  away 
it  is  well  to  examine  them,  and,  should 
they  show  any  signs  of  fermentation, 
the  syrup  must  again  be  boiled  down 
as  before.  The  core  is  never  removed 
from  Siberian  crab-apples ; it  has  in 
itself  a most  delicate  flavor,  which  im- 
proves the  whole  preserve. 

Cranberry  Jelly. — Wash  a quart  of 
cranberries  and  put  them  over  the  fire 


Currant  Conserve  PRESERVES,  ETC.  Currant  Syrup 


in  a double  boiler,  adding  no  water 
to  them.  Cover  closely  and  steam 
until  the  fruit  is  soft  and  thoroughly 
broken.  Squeeze  the  berries  through 
a bag,  and  return  the  juice  to  the  fire. 
Allow  granulated  sugar  in  the  pro- 
portion of  l/z  lb.  of  sugar  to  a cupful 
of  juice.  As  soon  as  the  juice  comes 
to  a boil,  add  the  sugar,  stir  until  dis- 
solved, and  allow  to  boil  up  once.  Re- 
move the  sweetened  liquid  from  the 
fire,  pour  into  a mould  wet  with  cold 
water,  and  set  in  a cool  place  to  form 
into  a firm  jelly. 

Currant  Conserve. — Take  5 lbs.  of 
washed  and  stemmed  currants,  5 lbs. 
of  sugar,  and  five  oranges  peeled, 
seeded,  and  cut  into  bits ; add  2.x/z  lbs. 
of  seedless  raisins,  mix  the  whole  to- 
gether, and  boil  for  thirty  minutes. 
Seal  while  hot. 

Currant  Jelly  without  Boiling.  — 

Press  the  juice  from  the  currants  and 
make  it  quite  hot,  but  it  must  not  be 
allowed  to  boil.  To  each  pint  of  juice 
add  a full  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  pounded 
very  fine  — granulated  sugar  will  do 
as  well — and  made  quite  hot  in  the 
oven,  and  then  stirred  gradually  into 
the  hot  juice  until  it  is  melted.  Put 
this  jelly  into  small  glasses  ; cover  first 
with  a round  paper  dipped  in  spirit, 
then  put  on  a close-fitting  cover,  and 
expose  the  jelly  daily  to  the  sun  for 
ten  days.  Jelly  made  thus  is  much 
brighter  in  color  than  when  it  is  boil- 
ed. Be  sure  that  the  fruit  from  which 
the  juice  has  been  extracted  is  per- 
fectly fresh,  and  that  there  is  no  sus- 
picion of  fermentation  about  the  juice. 

Currant  Jelly  that  Never  Fails. — 

Select  currants  that  are  not  fully  ripe ; 
the  ends  of  the  bunches  should  be 
rather  green.  Pick  them  over  and 
wash  them,  if  necessary,  but  do  not 
take  them  off  the  stems.  Put  them  in 
the  kettle  without  weighing,  and  stand 
it  on  the  back  of  the  stove  where  the 
fruit  will  heat  but  not  cook,  and  crush 
with  the  pestle  till  all  the  juice  is  out. 
Then  strain  it  through  two  bags,  one 
of  loose  flannel,  and  measure  it  with  a 

19  2 


pint  cup.  Take  as  many  pints  of  sugar 
but  leave  out  one  half-pint;  put  the 
sugar  in  a hot  oven,  stirring  often. 
Boil  the  juice  till  it  clears,  which  will 
be  in  five  to  ten  minutes,  and  skim  it. 
When  it  becomes  transparent,  turn  in 
the  hot  sugar  and  let  the  whole  boil 
up  hard  once — only  once — and  it  is 
done.  Take  it  off  and  dip  it  into  the 
heated  glasses  and  it  will  jelly  on  the 
cup  as  you  do  so.  Let  it  stand  in  the 
sunshine  for  a day  or  two,  until  it  is 
as  firm  as  you  wish.  The  secret  of 
making  this  jelly  is  in  boiling  it  just 
the  single  moment. 

Another  way  : — The  currants 
should  be  picked  from  the  bushes  dur- 
ing dry  weather — an  item  which  holds 
good  for  any  other  kind  of  fruit  as 
well.  They  should  be  thoroughly 
ripe,  but  not  over-ripe.  Place  the  cur- 
rants over  the  fire  in  an  agate  or  por- 
celain-lined kettle,  having  first  crushed 
them  very  slightly  to  draw  out  enough 
juice  to  keep  them  from  burning.  As 
soon  as  they  are  cooked  soft,  strain 
through  a fine  crash  bag  until  all  the 
juice  is  extracted  ; then  strain  it  slowly 
through  a fulled  flannel  jelly-bag  to 
remove  all  impurities  and  pulp.  Meas- 
ure the  juice  and  put  it  in  a clean  ket- 
tle. For  every  pound  of  juice  allow 
I lb.  of  granulated  sugar.  Put  the 
sugar  in  a stone  crock  large  enough  to 
hold  the  juice.  Let  the  juice  boil  hard 
for  five  minutes,  then  pour  it  over  the 
sugar  in  the  jar,  stirring  all  the  time, 
and  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Dip 
it  immediately  into  the  tumblers.  It 
will  often  be  solid  jelly  before  it  is 
cold. 

Currants,  Spiced. — Five  pounds  of 
stemmed  currants,  4 lbs.  of  sugar,  one 
pint  of  vinegar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
cloves,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cinna- 
mon. Put  on  the  fire  together,  and 
cook  half  an  hour  after  they  come 
to  a boil.  Put  up  in  jars  or  jelly- 
glasses. 

Currant  Syrup.  — Pick  very  ripe 
currants  from  the  stems,  put  in  a stone 
jar  and  mash,  cover  with  a thin  cloth, 
and  set  in  the  cellar  for  two  days. 


Figs,  To  Preserve  PRESERVES,  ETC.  Grape  Marmalade 


Turn  into  a jelly -bag  and  let  drip 
slowly  without  squeezing.  Measure 
the  juice,  and  to  every  pint  allow  2 lbs. 
of  sugar.  Mix  the  sugar  and  juice  to- 
gether, put  in  a kettle,  set  in  boiling 
water,  and  stir  until  the  syrup  is  suf- 
ficiently thick.  Take  from  the  fire,  let 
cool,  and  bottle. 

Figs,  To  Preserve  Green. — Weigh 
the  fruit,  and  allow  an  equal  quantity 
of  sugar,  the  thinly  pared  rind  of  a 
lemon,  and  a little  ginger.  Lay  the 
figs  in  cold  water  for  twenty-four 
hours,  then  simmer  them  till  tender; 
put  them  again  into  cold  water,  and 
let  them  remain  for  two  days,  chang- 
ing the  water  each  day.  If  not  quite 
soft,  simmer  again,  and  replace  in  cold 
water  until  the  next  day.  Make  a 
syrup  of  two-thirds  of  the  sugar  al- 
lowed, and  water  in  the  proportion  of 
a pint  to  2 lbs.,  and  in  this  syrup  let  the 
figs  simmer  ten  minutes.  In  two  days 
pour  the  syrup  from  the  figs  on  to  the 
rest  of  the  sugar  weighed.  After  add- 
ing the  lemon  and  ginger,  boil  the 
syrup  for  five  minutes,  when  the  fruit 
can  be  added  and  cooked  until  done 
and  transparent.  Cut  figs  in  half,  if 
preferred.  Put  away  in  small  glass 
jars. 

Fruit  Melange,  A.  — The  juicy 
fruits  of  summer  are  preserved  for 
winter  use  in  many  ways.  Simplest 
of  all,  inasmuch  as  no  cooking  is  re- 
quired, is  the  fruit  melange.  As  the 
name  indicates,  it  is  merely  a com- 
mingling of  all  fruits,  preserved  in 
the  same  receptacle  at  odd  times  and 
in  the  order  of  their  ripening.  The 
fruits  selected  must  be  sound ; ber- 
ries are  hulled,  cherries,  plums,  and 
peaches  stoned,  and  the  peaches  peel- 
ed and  quartered.  A pound  of  granu- 
lated sugar  is  allowed  for  each  pound 
of  prepared  fruit.  Begin  by  putting 
2 lbs.  of  strawberries  in  the  bottom  of 
a broad  stone  jar,  add  i lb.  of  goose- 
berries (unless  the  seeds  are  objec- 
tionable) and  2 lbs.  of  cherries  of  the 
same  or  of  different  colors,  and 
sprinkle  each  layer  of  fruit  with  its 
own  weight  of  sugar.  Dissolve  I oz. 


of  salicylic  acid  in  a pint  of  pure  alco- 
hol, and  pour  it  over  the  fruit.  It  will 
rise  above  it  and  act  as  a preservative. 
Cover  the  jar  with  stiff  paper,  and  set 
in  a cool,  dry  spot.  At  convenient 
intervals  blackberries  (these  used 
sparingly,  on  account  of  their  strong 
flavor),  raspberries,  currants  (both 
white  and  red),  plums,  peaches,  chop- 
ped pineapple,  and  slices  of  banana 
and  orange  are  added,  always  with  an 
equal  weight  of  sugar,  but  without 
increasing  the  amount  of  alcohol. 
In  the  autumn  the  contents  of  the  jar 
are  well  stirred  and  then  filled  into 
glass  jars,  to  be  used  as  a preserve  as 
occasion  requires,  or  as  a delicious 
filling  for  tarts  and  pies.  The  surplus 
juice  may  be  bottled  and  used  as  a 
foundation  for  pudding  sauce. 

Gooseberries  may  be  preserved  in 
water.  Pick  over  the  fruit,  reject  the 
poor  ones,  and  remove  head  and  tail. 
Put  the  fruit  into  jars,  filling  them 
nearly  to  the  top.  Pour  in  clear,  cold 
water,  allowing  it  to  overflow  the  jar. 
Screw  the  covers  down,  and  keep  the 
jars  in  a dark,  cool  place. 

Gooseberry  Jam. — Six  pounds  of 
ripe  gooseberries,  4 lbs.  of  sugar. 
Stem  and  top  the  gooseberries,  and 
boil  one  hour  in  a preserving-kettle, 
watching  closely  that  the  fruit  does 
not  scorch.  Stir  often.  If  the  juice 
increases  very  rapidly,  dip  out  some  of 
it.  When  the  fruit  has  boiled  an  hour 
add  the  sugar,  and  cook  an  hour 
longer.  Put  the  jam  boiling  hot  into 
glass  tumblers  or  small  jars,  and  seal. 

Grape  Jelly,  Ripe. — Proceed  with 
this  as  with  green-grape  jelly,  but  use 
only  I lb.  of  sugar  to  a pint  of  juice. 
Wild  or  tart  grapes  are  best  for  this 
purpose,  and  jelly  made  from  catawba 
grapes  is  especially  pleasing  both  to 
eye  and  palate. 

Grape  Marmalade.  — Cook  the 
grapes  as  for  jelly  or  catsup,  and  when 
very  tender  rub  through  a sieve,  re- 
jecting the  seeds.  Measure  the  pulp, 
and  to  every  pint  allow  T/z  lb.  of  sugar. 


290 


Fruit  Jams 


Grapes,  Preserved  PRESERVES,  ETC. 


Put  both  over  the  fire  and  boil  for  half 
an  hour,  stirring  constantly.  Put  up 
in  small  jars  or  glasses. 

Grapes,  Preserved  (partly  ripe). — 
Pick  out  those  that  are  knotty  or 
wormy,  take  the  rest,  a few  at  a time, 
in  a coarse  sieve,  working  them  around 
with  the  hand  until  the  seeds  are 
loosened,  when  they  will  drop  through, 
leaving  the  skins  and  pulp  in  the  sieve. 
Drain  the  juice  off  the  seeds,  and  to 
every  pound  of  pulp,  skins,  and  juice 
allow  l/z  lb.  of  white  sugar.  Put  all 
into  the  preserving- kettle,  and  cook 
slowly  about  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  Put  hot  into  jars,  a brandy- 
paper  on  top,  and  seal  up. 

Grape  Syrup. — Pick  ripe  grapes  of 
strong  flavor  from  the  stems;  mash, 
and  press  the  juice  out.  Measure,  and 
put  in  a porcelain  kettle,  with  i Y*  lbs. 
sugar  to  every  pint  of  juice  ; stir  over 
the  fire  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved  and 
the  syrup  made.  Care  must  be  taken 
not  to  cook  the  liquid  too  long,  or  it  will 
jelly.  When  thick  and  clear  take  from 
the  fire,  let  cool,  and  bottle. 

Green-grape  Jelly. — For  this  pur- 
pose the  ordinary  wild  or  fox  grapes 
are  excellent.  The  only  drawback 
connected  with  making  green-grape 
jelly  is  the  quantity  of  sugar  that  is 
demanded  to  render  it  eatable.  If  the 
grapes  are  gathered  in  midsummer, 
before  they  have  begun  to  turn,  the 
jelly  will  be  a clear  green;  but  later, 
when  the  first  bloom  makes  its  appear- 
ance, a beautiful  pink  jelly  may  be  ob- 
tained from  this  fruit.  The  grapes 
should  be  stripped  from  their  stems, 
and  put  in  a wide-mouthed  stone  jar 
set  in  an  outer  vessel  of  boiling  water. 
After  the  grapes  begin  to  soften,  they 
should  be  stirred  from  time  to  time 
with  a wooden  paddle  or  spoon.  When 
they  are  thoroughly  crushed  and  bro- 
ken— a process  that  may  require  three 
or  four  hours — they  may  be  turned,  a 
small  quantity  at  a time,  into  a jelly- 
bag.  To  have  the  juice  perfectly 
clear,  they  should  be  allowed  to  drip, 
but  the  bag  should  not  be  squeezed. 


After  all  the  juice  that  will  has  drip- 
ped from  the  fruit,  the  pulp  may  be 
squeezed  into  a second  vessel,  and  the 
juice  thus  secured  made  into  a second 
quality  of  jelly  that  will  do  for  cake, 
etc.  The  juice  should  be  measured, 
and  to  every  pint  of  this  I Y*  lbs.  of 
sugar  should  be  allowed.  The  juice 
should  then  be  returned  to  the  fire,  and 
while  it  boils  the  sugar  may  be  heated 
in  the  oven.  When  the  juice  has  been 
boiled  twenty  minutes  the  hot  sugar 
may  be  added.  After  this  the  jelly 
should  come  to  a hard  boil,  and  may 
then  be  removed  from  the  fire  and 
turned  into  glasses  while  boiling  hot. 

Jam  from  Large  Fruits. — Apricots, 
peaches,  damsons,  pears,  or  apples 
may  be  made  into  excellent  jam.  Al- 
low the  same  proportion  of  sugar  as 
with  small  fruit.  Peel  and  stone 
peaches,  stone  damsons  and  apricots, 
peel  and  core  apples  and  pears.  Let 
the  fruit  heat  very  slowly,  boil  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  add  the  sugar, 
and  cook  five  minutes  longer.  To 
peach  and  apricot  jam  add  a few  of 
the  kernels  of  the  stones,  chopped  fine. 
A table  - spoonful  of  brandy  to  each 
pint  of  the  juice  is  also  an  improve- 
ment. 

Jams  from  Small  Fruits. — A good 
general  rule  for  jams  allows  Y\  lb.  of 
sugar  to  every  pound  of  fruit.  In 
currant  jam  the  allowance  might  be 
a trifle  more  liberal.  For  strawber- 
ries, raspberries,  blackberries,  goose- 
berries, cherries,  and  ripe  grapes  the 
three  - quarters  - of  - a - pound  estimate 
will  be  found  satisfactory.  Stem  and 
top  gooseberries,  stem  currants,  hull 
strawberries,  pick  over  raspberries  and 
blackberries,  and  stone  cherries.  Put 
the  fruit  over  the  fire  in  a preserving- 
kettle,  bring  to  a boil,  and  after  that 
cook  half  an  hour.  Stir  often.  Turn 
in  the  sugar,  boil  twenty  minutes 
longer,  and  seal  boiling  hot  in  jars  or 
tumblers.  If  there  is  too  much  juice 
it  can  be  put  up  in  separate  jars  to  use 
as  pudding  sauce,  or  converted  into 
royal  or  shrub  or  vinegar,  or  any  other 
home-made  cordial. 


291 


Fruit  Jellies 


PRESERVES,  ETC.  Limes,  Preserved 


Jelly  from  Large  Fruits. — Apple, 
crab -apple,  peach,  pear,  plum,  and 
quince  jelly  may  be  made  by  the 
following  directions  : Slice  or  quar- 
ter the  fruit  without  peeling  (peaches 
should  be  peeled).  Put  it  over  the  fire 
in  a preserving- kettle,  with  enough 
water  to  nearly  cover  the  fruit.  Let 
it  simmer  until  this  is  tender  and 
broken,  so  that  the  juice  flows  freely. 
Take  from  the  fire,  crush  in  a veg- 
etable-press. and  let  the  juice  drip 
through  a flannel  bag.  Cloudy  jelly 
will  be  the  result  of  squeezing.  When 
the  juice  has  been  measured,  proceed 
as  with  jelly  from  small  fruits.  In 
making  peach  jelly,  cook  a handful 
of  the  kernels  of  the  peach -stones 
with  the  stewing  fruit,  and  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  lemon-juice  to  every 
pint  of  the  strained  juice  before  put- 
ting in  the  sugar. 

For  jellies  made  with  gelatine,  see 
Jellies. 

Jellies  of  Small  Fruits.  — Select 
fruit  that  is  juicy  but  not  over-ripe. 
Grapes  and  cherries  are  harder  to 
jelly  than  the  other  fruits.  It  will 
require  little  picking  over.  Currants 
need  not  be  stemmed.  Put  them 
over  a slow  fire  in  a stone  crock  set 
in  an  outer  vessel  of  water,  or  in  a 
preserving-kettle  in  which  you  have 
laid  a thick  plate  that  will  keep  the 
fruit  from  the  bottom  of  the  pot. 
The  stone  jar  is  preferable  if  the  fruit 
is  to  cook  all  night.  Stir  occasionally 
with  the  wooden  paddle,  breaking  the 
berries  against  the  side  of  the  vessel. 
When  the  juice  has  flowed  freely,  the 
fruit  may  be  squeezed  in  a fruit  or 
vegetable  press,  and  the  fruit  thus 
expressed  strained  through  a flannel 
jelly  - bag.  The  first  runnings  from 
this  will  be  clearer  than  that  squeezed 
through  at  the  last. 

When  all  is  strained,  measure  the 
juice.  To  each  pint  of  this  should 
be  allowed  i lb.  of  granulated  sugar. 
Return  the  clear  juice  to  the  fire  in  the 
preserving-kettle,  bring  quickly  to  a 
boil,  and  let  it  cook  twenty  minutes 
after  reaching  this  point.  Skim  it, 
put  in  the  sugar,  bring  the  juice  to  the 


bubble  once  more,  stirring  all  the 
time,  and  boil  hard  one  minute. 

Have  ready  the  jelty-glasses,  ar- 
ranged on  a wet  cloth,  and  fill  quick- 
ly, placing  a spoon  in  each  as  you 
fill  it,  to  prevent  cracking.  As  the 
jelly  shrinks  in  cooling,  each  glass 
should  be  very  full. 

Lemon  Marmalade. — Boil  them  in 
as  much  water  as  will  cover  them  for 
two  hours.  Pour  off  the  water  once 
or  twice  during  that  time,  and  replace 
it  with  fresh  boiling  water.  Drain  the 
lemons,  and  cut  them  into  thin  slices. 
Leave  out  all  the  pips  and  weigh  the 
fruit,  and  allow  2 lbs.  of  loaf  sugar  and 
a pint  of  the  water  the  lemons  were  last 
boiled  in  for  every  pound  of  fruit.  Boil 
the  sugar  and  water  for  ten  minutes. 
Put  in  the  pulp,  etc.,  and  boil  together 
for  half  an  hour.  Pour  the  marma- 
lade into  jars. 

Lemon  Syrup. — Wipe  large,  perfect 
lemons  with  a damp  cloth,  roll  until 
soft,  cut  in  halves,  and  squeeze  out  the 
juice ; grate  the  rinds  of  several,  add, 
and  let  stand  in  a stone  jar  overnight. 
Strain  and  measure  the  juice  ; to  every 
pint  allow  3 lbs.  of  sugar.  Beat  the 
white  of  an  egg,  mix  with  a pint  of 
cold  water,  pour  over  the  sugar,  turn 
into  a porcelain  kettle,  stir  until  dis- 
solved, set  over  the  fire,  let  come  to  a 
boil,  and  skim;  add  the  lemon-juice ; 
let  boil  five  minutes.  Take  from  the 
fire,  cool,  and  bottle.  In  the  spring, 
when  lemons  are  plentiful,  they  can 
be  bought  very  cheap,  and  syrup  made 
from  them  to  last  for  a year.  * 

Limes,  Preserved.  — Lay  them  in 
salt  and  water  strong  enough  to  bear 
an  egg,  closely  covering  them  until 
the  warm  weather  is  over.  Cut  them 
enough  to  get  out  all  the  seeds,  and 
place  in  cold  water  for  one  day,  chang- 
ing the  water  often  so  as  to  remove  all 
the  salt.  Boil  in  water  (in  which  soda 
has  been  added  in  the  proportion  of  one 
teaspoonful  to  six  quarts  of  water)  till 
tender  enough  to  put  a straw  through ; 
then  soak  again  in  cold  water  one  day, 
changing  the  water  often.  To  each 


292 


Mixed  Preserves  PRESERVES,  ETC.  Peach  Conserves 


pound  of  fruit  allow  2/4  lbs.  of  white 
sugar  and  three  pints  of  water.  Boil 
the  syrup  fifteen  minutes,  put  the  fruit 
in,  cook  five  minutes,  remove,  put  into 
jars ; let  the  syrup  cook  fifteen  minutes 
longer.  They  will  keep  any  number 
of  years. 

Mixed  Preserves.  — Take  equal 
quantities  of  peaches,  apples,  pears, 
and  quinces  that  have  been  pared, 
cored,  and  quartered,  or,  what  is  bet- 
ter, cut  fine.  To  every  6 lbs.  of  fruit 
allow  one  pint  of  water.  Let  them 
cook  thoroughly,  but  not  burn.  Take 
out  and  mash  well  together.  Clean 
the  kettle  and  put  them  back  with  half 
or  three-quarters  their  weight  in  sug- 
ar, and  let  them  cook  very  slowly  two 
hours. 

Orange  Marmalade. — Cut  the  or- 
anges in  halves  and  remove  the  pulp 
with  a spoon.  Take  one  lemon  to 
every  five  oranges  and  prepare  in  the 
same  way.  Then  cut  the  half-shells 
of  the  fruit  each  into  two  pieces,  and 
take  out  as  much  of  the  white  skin  as 
possible.  Put  the  outside  yellow  skins 
on  to  boil  in  water.  Weigh  the  pulp, 
and  take  half  as  much  sugar,  and  sim- 
mer for  fifteen  minutes.  When  the 
peel  is  transparent  and  tender  take  it 
up,  and,  laying  several  pieces  togeth- 
er, cut  into  fine  shreds,  first  scraping 
each  one  thoroughly  with  a spoon  till 
all  the  white  inside  is  gone.  Mix  with 
the  pulp  and  sugar  and  cook  till  very 
thick,  and  put  in  jelly-glasses.  This 
will  be  found  to  be  a very  nice  recipe. 

Oranges  and  Rhubarb  Marmalade. 

— Peel  the  oranges  thin,  throw  away 
the  white  rind  and  the  seeds.  Cut 
the  oranges  into  small  pieces  and  put 
them  into  the  preserving-kettle ; add 
the  peel,  cut  into  very  fine  strips,  then 
the  rhubarb,  cut  into  small  pieces,  and 
lastly  the  sugar.  To  six  oranges  add 
2 lbs.  of  rhubarb  stalks  and  i J4  lbs.  of 
sugar.  Boil  until  the  orange-peel  is 
cooked. 

Orange  Syrup. — This  syrup  is  so 
easily  made,  and  can  be  used  so  con- 


stantly to  advantage,  that  every 
housekeeper  would  do  well  to  make  a 
supply  of  it  at  the  season  when  oranges 
are  plentiful  and  cheap.  Select  ripe 
and  thin-skinned  fruit,  squeezing  the 
juice  through  a sieve.  To  every  pint 
add  I /4  lbs.  of  powdered  sugar,  with  a 
very  little  of  the  grated  orange-peel 
and  the  juice  of  one  lemon.  Boil  the 
syrup  for  fifteen  minutes,  skimming  it 
as  long  as  any  scum  rises  to  the  top. 
Then  take  it  off,  strain  it  if  it  does  not 
look  clear,  bottle  it,  and  seal  up  tight. 
Two  table  - spoonfuls  of  this  syrup 
mixed  with  Y\  lb.  of  creamed  butter 
makes  an  excellent  sauce  for  a plum 
or  a batter  pudding ; a little  of  it  im- 
parts a fine  flavor  to  custards,  and, 
simply  mixed  with  cold  water  and  ice, 
it  furnishes  a deliciously  cooling  drink 
in  summer,  or,  in  some  cases,  for  pa- 
tients. In  hot  countries  where  oranges 
grow  their  juice  is  thought  to  be  a 
specific  in  cases  of  dysentery. 

Oranges  Whole,  To  Preserve. — Cut 

a hole  in  each  orange  large  enough  to 
scoop  out  the  inside ; put  in  cold  water 
three  days  to  soak,  changing  the  water 
each  day ; then  boil  slowly  until  the 
bitter  is  extracted,  changing  the  water 
every  half-hour  till  it  no  longer  tastes 
bitter.  To  i lb.  of  fruit  put  2 lbs.  of 
clarified  sugar.  When  the  syrup  is 
clear,  drop  the  oranges  in  and  boil  until 
transparent.  They  will  take  about 
four  hours  to  boil. 

Peach  Conserves.— Halve  the  peach- 
es, and  take  out  the  stones ; pare. 
Have  ready  some  powdered  white 
sugar  on  a plate  , or  dish.  Roll  the 
peaches  in  it  several  times,  until 
they  will  not  take  up  any  more. 
Place  them  singly  on  a plate,  with 
the  cup,  or  hollow,  side  up,  that  the 
juices  may  not  run  out.  Lay  them 
in  the  sun.  The  next  morning  roll 
them  again.  As  soon  as  the  juice 
seems  set  in  the  peaches,  turn  the 
other  side  to  the  sun.  When  they  are 
thoroughly  dry,  pack  them  in  glass 
jars.  They  make  an  excellent  sweet- 
meat just  as  they  are ; or,  if  wanted 
for  table  use,  put  over  the  fire  in 


293 


Peach  Jam 


PRESERVES,  ETC  . Peaches,  Preserved 


porcelain,  with  a very  little  water,  and 
stew  a few  minutes. 

Peach  Jam. — This  recipe  has  been 
in  use  in  a New  England  family  for 
two  generations  and  never  fails  to 
be  a success.  Pare,  stone,  and  cut 
into  thin  slices  half  a peck  of  free- 
stone peaches,  and  to  I lb.  of  fruit 
add  lb.  of  sugar.  Put  them  into  a 
preserving-kettle  and  let  them  cook 
until  clear,  which  will  probably  re- 
quire an  hour.  Then  crack  one-third 
of  the  peach-stones,  remove  the  ker- 
nels, blanch  them  in  boiling  water, 
cut  them  into  thin  slices,  and  add 
to  the  peaches.  This  should  be  done 
as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  set  on  the  fire, 
so  that  the  kernels  can  cook  with 
it.  When  done,  put  into  glass  jars. 
For  use  in  small  families  the  pint 
size  is  better  than  the  quart. 

Peach  Jelly. — Take  sound  peaches, 
wash  them  thoroughly.  Use  the  par- 
ings and  a few  pieces  of  the  fruit.  Boil 
in  enough  water  to  cover  them.  Strain 
through  a jelly-bag.  Allow  the  juice 
of  one  lemon  and  i lb.  of  sugar  to  each 
pint  of  juice.  Boil  the  juice  twentj^ 
minutes  after  straining  before  putting 
in  the  sugar,  which  has  in  the  mean 
time  been  heating  in  the  oven.  Then 
boil  again  for  five  minutes,  and  pour 
into  tumblers. 

Peach  Leather. — Boil  tart  peaches 
with  a little  water  until  quite  tender ; 
take  out  the  stones,  and  pass  the  pulp 
through  a wire  sieve ; boil  gently,  stir- 
ring constantly,  one  hour;  then  stir 
into  the  boiled  pulp  sugar  equal  to 
one -half  the  weight  of  the  unboiled 
pulp,  and  boil  one  minute ; have  ready 
shallow  earthen  plates,  pour  the  paste 
into  these,  not  over  a quarter  of  an 
inch  thick,  and  dry  slowly  in  the  oven. 

Peach  Marmalade. — To  i lb.  of  the 

peeled  and  stoned  peaches  allow 
lb.  of  sugar.  Put  the  fruit  on 
by  itself  and  let  it  heat  slowly,  stir- 
ring frequently  that  it  may  not  burn. 
When  it  has  boiled  three-quarters  of 
an  hour,  add  the  sugar  and  boil 


five  minutes,  skimming  constantly. 
To  every  2 lbs.  of  fruit  add  then  the 
kernels  of  half  a dozen  peach-stones, 
chopped  fine,  and  the  juice  of  a lemon. 
Cool  ten  minutes  longer,  and  put  in 
small  jars  or  jelly-glasses. 

Peach  Syrup.  — Take  ripe,  soft 
peaches,  pare,  and  remove  the  stones  ; 
lay  on  a large  dish  and  sprinkle  with 
sugar;  let  stand  overnight.  In  the 
morning  drain  off  the  juice,  put  into 
a kettle,  beat  the  juice  from  a dozen 
peach  kernels,  and  add ; let  heat ; if  the 
syrup  is  not  thick  and  rich,  add  more 
sugar,  and  stir  until  it  dissolves. 
Take  from  the  fire,  let  cool,  and  bot- 
tle. Peach  syrup  is  an  excellent  fla- 
voring for  frozen  pudding  and  makes 
a delicious  water-ice. 

Peaches,  Canned. — Half  a pound  of 
sugar  to  1 lb.  of  peaches.  Put  the 
sugar  on  the  fire  with  a little  water,  let 
it  boil  until  the  syrup  is  clear.  Pack 
the  jars  tightly  with  the  peaches,  fill 
them  up  with  the  syrup.  Then  put  the 
jars  in  a large  boiler  of  water,  stand- 
ing them  on  slabs  of  wood  and  not 
letting  the  jars  touch  each  other.  The 
water  should  come  up  to  within  three 
inches  of  the  top.  Cover  the  boiler  and 
boil  the  fruit  until  tender.  Let  the 
water  get  cold,  then  take  out  the  jars, 
fill  up  with  boiling  water,  and  seal. 

Peaches,  Preserved. — Choose  large, 
white  peaches,  and  peel  but  do  not  cut 
them.  Make  a syrup,  and  cook  them 
till  nearly  done,  trying  with  a straw. 
Put  them  in  cans  and  pour  the  hot 
syrup  over  them.  Or,  if  you  prefer  the 
yellow  peach,  peel  and  cut  in  halves; 
and  add  a few  peach  kernels  to  each 
can  for  the  flavor. 

Another  way  : — Remove  the  skins 
from  the  peaches  by  putting  them,  a 
few  at  a time,  in  a wire  basket  and 
dipping  them  into  a kettle  of  boiling 
water;  you  can  then  peel  them  like 
boiled  potatoes.  Weigh  them,  and 
allow  1 lb.  of  sugar  to  I lb.  of  fruit. 
Make  a syrup  of  the  sugar  in  the  pro- 
portion of  a pint  of  cold  water  to  3 lbs. 
of  sugar.  Skim  it,  and  let  it  clarify. 


294 


Pears,  Canned 


PRESERVES,  ETC.  Pineapple,  Preserved 


Put  the  peaches,  a few  at  a time,  into 
the  syrup,  and  cook  them  until  soft. 
This  you  can  tell  by  trying  them  with 
a straw ; when  you  can  feel  the  stone 
they  are  done.  Put  them  in  jars,  and 
pour  the  hot  syrup  over  them.  Cling- 
stones should  always  be  used  for  pre- 
serving. 

Pears,  Canned.  — To  obtain  the 
bartletts  in  perfection,  they  should 
be  placed  between  flannel  to  ripen, 
and  when  not  quite  mellow  enough 
for  eating  they  are  ready  for  can- 
ning. To  every  quart  jar  allow 
seven  medium-sized  pears,  a scant 
pint  of  water,  and  % lb.  of  sugar. 
Cut  the  fruit  in  two,  core,  pare,  and 
throw  the  pieces  into  cold  water  to 
prevent  discoloration.  Put  the  sugar 
and  water  in  a porcelain  kettle,  over 
the  fire ; when  scum  arises,  remove  it, 
and  as  soon  as  the  syrup  boils  hard 
add  the  fruit;  boil  all  three  minutes 
or  more.  If  the  jars  are  of  glass, 
wet  a cloth  in  cold  water,  fold  sev- 
eral times,  and  put  under  to  prevent 
breakage.  Lay  in  a few  pieces  of 
fruit,  then  some  juice,  until  the  jar 
is  full;  run  a spoon -handle  down 
the  side  to  allow  all  the  air  bubbles 
to  escape,  and  seal  tightly  while  all 
is  hot.  Keep  in  a cool,  dark  place. 
Seckel  pears  are  canned  in  the  same 
way,  only  their  flavor  is  best  when 
picked  fresh  from  the  tree  and  not 
ripened  in  the  house.  If  the  bartletts 
are  hard,  and  cannot  be  ripened  in 
flannel,  boil  them  a few  minutes. 

Pear  Marmalade  is  best  made  of 
the  large  yellow  pears,  which  should 
be  very  ripe.  Peel  and  core  io  lbs. 
of  pears,  put  in  a porcelain  kettle  with 
a pint  of  water,  let  cook  very  slowly 
until  reduced  to  a pulp,  add  % lb.  of 
sugar  to  I lb.  of  fruit,  and  stir  over 
the  fire  until  thick  and  smooth.  Take 
up  in  a bowl,  let  cool,  put  in  small 
glasses  or  jars,  seal,  and  set  in  a cool, 
dry  place. 

Pear  Preserves,  Rich.  — Peel  the 
pears,  cut  them  in  halves,  and  re- 
move the  core.  Weigh  them,  and  al- 


low I lb.  of  sugar  to  I lb.  of  fruit. 
Make  a syrup  of  the  sugar  by  adding 
a pint  of  water  to  every  3 lbs.  of  sugar, 
drop  in  some  ginger  root  and  slices 
of  lemon,  put  in  the  pears,  and  boil 
until  quite  soft.  If  they  are  very 
hard,  they  should  be  boiled  in  water 
first,  and  sufficient  of  this  water  used 
to  makeVthe  syrup.  After  the  pears 
are  removed  from  the  syrup,  boil  ten 
or  fifteen  minutes  longer. 

Pear  Preserves,  Less  Rich.  — Peel 
ripe  pears,  cut  in  halves,  and  core 
them.  To  1 lb.  of  fruit  allow  6 ozs. 
of  sugar.  Make  a syrup  of  the  sugar, 
add  the  pears,  and  cook  until  soft 
These  preserves  should  be  kept  in 
sealed  cans. 

Pineapple,  Canned.  — Pare  ripe, 
juicy  pineapples  and  cut  them  into 
slices  an  inch  thick.  Allow  % lb.  of 
sugar  to  1 lb.  of  fruit.  Put  them  into 
the  preserving-kettle  together,  and  if 
there  is  not  enough  juice  add  very 
little  water.  As  soon  as  they  are 
well  scalded  through  put  into  hot  jars 
and  seal  at  once. 

Pineapple,  Preserved.  — Cut  into 
slices,  take  out  the  core  of  each  one, 
and  weigh,  allowing  pound  for  pound 
of  sugar  and  fruit.  Put  in  alternate 
layers  in  the  kettle,  add  a teacupful 
of  water  to  each  pound  of  sugar. 
Heat  to  a boil ; take  out  the  pine- 
apple and  spread  upon  dishes  in  the 
sun.  Boil  and  skim  the  syrup  half  an 
hour.  Return  the  pineapple  to  the 
kettle  and  boil  fifteen  minutes.  Pack 
in  jars,  pour  on  the  scalding  syrup, 
and  when  cold  put  brandied  tissue- 
paper  upon  the  top  and  seal  the  jars. 

Another  way:  — Take  pineapples 
quite  ripe.  Peel  them  carefully,  cut 
them  in  slices ; then  weigh  the  fruit, 
and  allow  Y\  lb.  of  best  white  sugar 
to  1 lb.  of  fruit.  Put  the  fruit  and 
sugar  into  a bowl  in  layers.  Set  it 
aside  until  the  next  day;  then  set 
the  kettle  over  a steady  fire  until 
the  fruit  is  scalding  hot,  but  not  long 
enough  to  soften  them.  Take  out 
the  fruit  with  a perforated  ladle,  and 


295 


Pineapple  Syrup  PRESERVES,  ETC.  Quince  Marmalade 


carefully  lay  it  in  a colander  to  drain. 
Boil  the  syrup  until  it  thickens.  Lay 
the  fruit  in  preserve  - glasses,  and 
cover  each  glass  with  a paper  dipped 
in  spirits  before  the  top  is  fastened 
down. 

Pineapple  Syrup.  — Put  3 lbs.  of 
loaf  sugar  in  a porcelain  kettle. 
Beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  to  which 
add  gradually  one  pint  of  clear  water ; 
pour  over  the  sugar,  and  set  on  the 
stove  to  boil  until  clear.  Take  off 
the  fire  to  cool.  Pare  and  grate  suf- 
ficient pineapples  to  make  a quart 
of  juice,  and  strain  into  the  syrup; 
let  boil  ten  minutes,  and  stand  aside 
to  cool.  When  cold,  bottle  and  seal. 
Pineapple  syrup  makes  delicious  wa- 
ter-ice, and  flavors  sherbet  better  than 
fresh  pineapple. 

Plum  Jam. — Stone  the  plums,  weigh 
them,  and  stew  for  twenty  minutes. 
Add  then  lb.  of  sugar  for  1 lb.  of 
fruit,  and  cook  together  slowly  an 
hour  longer,  or  until  the  jam  is  of  the 
desired  consistency.  Put  up  hot  in 
small  jars. 

Plum  Jelly. — Put  plums  in  colan- 
der and  pour  boiling  water  over  them. 
Then  place  plums  in  preserving-kettle, 
with  just  enough  water  to  cover,  and 
boil  until  the  plums  are  soft  and  the 
juice  extracted.  Pour  off  the  liquid, 
strain  it,  and  put  the  juice  on  to  boil. 
Allow  1 lb.  of  sugar  to  a pint  of  juice, 
and  put  the  sugar  in  shallow  pans  in 
the  oven  to  heat  until  the  juice  has 
boiled  twenty  minutes.  Add  sugar, 
stir  until  dissolved,  take  at  once  from 
the  fire,  and  pour  into  bowls  or  glasses 
rolled  in  hot  water  to  prevent  break- 
ing, and  you  will  have  a most  delicious 
jelly. 

Plums,  Canned. — To  1 lb.  of  plums 
allow  half  the  quantity  of  sugar,  if 
they  are  very  ripe  or  light -colored; 
moisten  the  sugar  with  water,  and 
place  over  the  fire  in  a preserving- 
kettle,  removing  the  scum  as  it  rises, 
and  when  boiling  add  the  fruit,  setting 
on  the  back  of  the  stove,  where  the 


plums  will  get  heated  through  and 
juice  commence  to  run  before  boiling. 
As  soon  as  they  boil  up  once,  take 
from  the  stove  and  bottle  immediately, 
keeping  as  whole  as  possible. 

Plums,  Preserved. — Allow  1 lb.  of 
sugar  and  a teacupful  of  water  to  I lb. 
of  fruit,  halved  and  stoned.  Boil  the 
syrup  ten  minutes  before  putting  the 
plums  in,  skim,  and  then  boil  all  to- 
gether till  tender.  Take  from  fire 
and  let  stand  overnight.  The  next 
day  boil  up  again,  adding  a few  of 
the  blanched  kernels  taken  from  the 
stones.  Pack  the  fruit  in  cans,  pour 
over  the  syrup,  and  seal. 

Another  way  : — Pour  boiling  water 
over  the  egg  or  other  large  plum,  then 
remove  the  skin.  Make  a syrup  of  1 
lb.  of  sugar  and  a teacupful  of  water 
to  1 lb.  of  fruit,  and  when  boiling  hot 
pour  over  the  plums.  Let  it  remain 
overnight,  then  drain,  boil  again, 
skim,  and  pour  over  plums.  Let 
them  remain  in  this  another  day. 
Then  put  over  the  fire  in  the  syrup, 
and  boil  until  clear ; remove  with  skim- 
mer, pack  carefully,  in  cans ; boil  the 
syrup  until  thick,  pour  over  plums, 
and  seal. 

Quinces,  Canned. — Cut  them  in  thin 
slices.  Make  a syrup  of  one  cupful 
and  a half  of  sugar  to  one  cupful  of 
water ; when  it  is  at  the  boiling-point, 
or  begins  to  bubble,  drop  the  sliced 
quinces  in ; they  will  cook  in  a very 
short  time  and  will  be  tender  and  clear. 
Put  up  in  small  cans. 

Quinces,  Preserved.  — Peel  and 
quarter  the  fruit  and  remove  the 
cores.  Stew  gently  in  a rich  syrup 
till  they  become  transparent. 

Quince  Marmalade. — When  quinces 
emit  their  peculiar  strong  odor  it  is  a 
sign  that  they  are  fit  for  use.  Peel 
the  quinces,  core  them,  slice  them  into 
a preserving-pan,  and  pour  over  them 
as  much  water  as  will  barely  cover 
them.  Let  them  simmer  very  gently 
until  they  are  soft,  stirring  them  oc- 
casionally to  keep  them  from  burning 


Raspberry  Jam  PRESERVES,  ETC 


Strawberries 


to  the  pan ; then  beat  them  to  a pulp 
with  a wooden  spoon.  Weigh  the  fruit, 
and  for  I lb.  allow  % lb.  of  sugar.  Put 
the  sugar  into  a preserving-pan,  with 
as  much  water  as  will  moisten  it,  and 
boil  it  slowly  till  it  is  smooth  and 
thick.  Stir  frequently  while  it  is  be- 
ing boiled.  The  marmalade  will  be 
done  enough  when  it  will  jelly  when 
dropped  upon  a plate.  Put  it,  while 
hot,  into  glasses  or  jars. 

Raspberry  Jam.  — Take  6 lbs.  of 
berries  and  4 l/z  lbs.  of  sugar.  Crush 
the  berries  with  a wooden  spoon,  and 
put  pulp  and  juice  in  a preserving- 
kettle.  After  they  boil,  cook  steadily 
half  an  hour,  stirring  often.  Add 
the  sugar,  cook  twenty  minutes 
longer,  and  put  boiling  hot  into  jars. 
If  there  is  a great  deal  of  juice,  dip 
out  part  of  it  and  make  jelly  of  it 
or  reserve  it  for  raspberry  vinegar. 
Either  black  or  red  raspberries  may 
be  used  for  this,  but  the  latter  are 
especially  delicious. 

Raspberries,  Preserved  (French  rec- 
ipe).— Take  4 lbs.  of  raspberries  pick- 
ed from  the  stalks,  set  aside  at  least 
half,  which  should  be  the  finest ; add 
to  the  rest  I lb.  of  white  currants, 
and  bruise  and  strain  them  through 
a cloth,  wringing  it  so  as  to  extract 
all  the  juice.  Put  the  juice  into  a 
preserving  - pan,  and  allow  % lb. 
of  sugar  to  1 lb.  of  juice,  including 
the  weight  of  the  raspberries  left 
whole.  Let  the  sugar  and  juice  boil, 
skimming  it,  and  at  the  end  of  twenty- 
minutes  put  in  the  rest  of  the  fruit 
and  let  it  boil  for  ten  minutes  longer. 
When  the  preserve  is  boiled  enough — 
it  is  so  if  the  syrup  jellies  when  a little 
is  put  on  a plate  to  cool — take  it  off 
the  fire,  and  pot  in  the  usual  way. 

Another  way : — To  1 lb.  of  fruit 
allow  1 lb.  of  white  sugar,  pounded, 
and  boil  twenty  minutes  without  stir- 
ring. When  done,  put  into  small  glass- 
es, as  directed  for  strawberries,  and 
set  in  the  sun  from  time  to  time.  A 
delightful  preserve  to  send  to  table 
with  any  delicately  flavored  ice- 
cream. 


Raspberries  Preserved  Whole. 

See  Blackberries. 

Raspberry  Syrup  (an  old  Virginia 
recipe). — To  every  quart  of  berries  add 

1 lb.  of  loaf  sugar,  and  let  stand  over- 
night. In  the  morning  put  on  to  boil 
for  half  an  hour;  skim,  and  strain 
through  a jelly -bag;  let  cool;  pour 
into  bottles,  and  cork. 

Strawberry  Jam.  — For  this  a 
smaller  berry  will  do,  but  choose  one 
that  is  sweet  and  firm.  Hull,  wash, 
and  measure  the  fruit.  Take  pound 
for  pound  of  sugar;  crush  the  berries 
till  there  is  juice  enough  so  that  they 
will  not  burn ; boil  them  with  one-third 
of  the  sugar,  and  crush  them  as  they 
cook  for  fifteen  minutes ; add  one- 
third  more  sugar,  and  after  fifteen 
minutes  the  rest,  and  cook  another 
fifteen  minutes,  making  three-quarters 
of  an  hour  to  every  kettle  of  fruit. 
This  should  be  enough,  but  if  the 
berries  are  watery  they  may  need 
longer.  Try  by  cooling  a little  in  the 
air,  and  take  up  as  soon  as'  the  jam 
sets. 

Strawberries,  Preserved.  — Select 
large  but  firm  berries,  hull  and  wash 
them,  and  measure  2 lbs.  of  fruit  and 

2 lbs.  of  sugar.  Put  half  a cupful  of 
hot  water  in  your  kettle,  add  the 
sugar,  stir  till  hot,  and  then  put  in  the 
2 lbs.  of  fruit  and  slowly  simmer 
for  five  minutes.  The  berries  will 
certainly  lose  their  color  and  shrink; 
but  take  the  whole  up  and  put  in 
shallow  earthen  or  agate  dishes, 
and.  stand  in  the  sun  for  three  days, 
taking  them  in  at  night,  and  if  it  is 
very  hot,  moving  them  into  the  shade 
during  the  noon  hour.  The  third 
day  the  color  will  return,  the  berries 
will  grow  plump  and  firm,  and  the 
syrup  will  almost  jelly.  Only  2 lbs. 
must  be  put  over  at  once,  but  they 
do  not  take  long  to  do,  and  a few 
pounds  may  be  put  up  on  one  day 
and  a few  more  a little  later,  and  so 
on.  Put  them  in  cans  or  glasses 
without  reheating. 

Another  way  : — Allow  oqly  x/z  lb. 


297 


Strawberries 


PRESERVES,  ETC  . Tomato  Preserve 


of  sugar  to  I lb.  of  strawberries. 
The  size  of  the  fruit  does  not  matter 
at  all,  but  it  should  be  sweet  and 
sound!  Put  the  berries  on  the  fire 
in  a porcelain  - lined  kettle,  mash 
them  well,  and  let  them  cook  an  hour 
before  the  sugar  is  added,  when  the 
jam  must  be  cooked,  stirring  constant- 
ly until  it  is  smooth  and  thick,  like 
mush.  It  will  keep  indefinitely. 

Strawberries  Preserved  Whole. — 

Select  the  finest  and  largest  straw- 
berries, with  the  stalks  on,  before  they 
get  too  ripe.  Lay  them  on  a dish. 
Beat  and  sift  twice  their  weight  in 
double  - refined  sugar,  and  sprinkle 
over  them.  Take  a few  of  the  ripest 
strawberries,  crush  them,  and  put 
them  in  a jar  with  their  weight  in 
sugar.  Beat  and  crush  very  small, 
cover  close,  and  let  them  stand  in  a 
kettle  of  water  until  they  are  soft  and 
the  syrup  has  come  out  of  them ; 
then  strain  through  a muslin  bag 
into  a pan,  boil,  and  skim  well,  and 
when  cold  put  in  your  whole  straw- 
berries and  set  them  over  a slow  fire 
until  they  are  milk-warm;  then  let 
them  stand  until  quite  cold ; set  them 
on  again  and  make  them  a little  hot- 
ter ; do  this  several  times  until  they 
are  quite  clear,  but  do  not  allow  to 
boil,  as  it  will  bring  away  the  stalk. 
When  the  strawberries  are  quite  cold 
put  them  into  jelly-glasses  with  the 
stems  down,  fill  the  glasses  up  with 
the  jelly,  cover  with  paper  dipped  in 
brandy,  and  seal. 

Strawberry  Syrup.  — Press  the 
strawberries  through  a cotton  cloth. 
To  a pint  of  juice  put  i lb.  of  white 
sugar,  and  let  them  rapidly  come  to 
a boil  over  a quick  fire ; skim  off  any 
scum  that  rises,  and  put  up  hot  in 
bottles,  which  must  be  immediately 
corked  and  sealed.  Strawberry  syrup 
thus  prepared  keeps  well  and  flavors 
ice-cream  delightfully,  no  more  sugar 
being  needed  when  the  cream  is  mix- 
ed with  the  syrup. 

Tomatoes,  Canned.  — Instead  of 
scalding  tomatoes  to  remove  the  skin 


lay  them  in  a dripping-pan  and  place 
them  in  the  oven,  letting  them  bake 
for  a few  minutes;  a black  liquor 
will  come  from  them,  which,  if  not 
managed  this  way,  remains  in  and 
causes  them  to  spoil.  When  cool 
enough  to  handle,  peel  them;  cook 
for  about  half  an  hour  in  a boiler, 
or  until  they  are  done  about  as  for 
the  table.  Fill  the  cans,  and  solder 
or  seal  them  at  once.  Do  not  season 
the  tomatoes  until  you  want  to  use 
them.  When  wanted  for  the  table, 
if  cooked  enough  when  put  up,  they 
will  only  need  a thorough  heating 
and  seasoning.  Only  perfectly  ripe, 
fresh  tomatoes  should  be  used  for 
canning ; and  always  do  them  before 
the  month  of  August  goes  out;  they 
are  apt  to  be  acid  and  watery  after 
that. 

Tomato  Figs. — Take  pear-shaped 
tomatoes,  red  or  yellow,  and  weigh 
them.  To  6 lbs.  allow  3 lbs.  of  brown 
sugar  strongly  flavored  with  ginger 
and  lemon-juice.  Put  all  together  in 
a kettle  with  a very  little  water,  and 
simmer  gently  until  the  tomatoes  are 
clear,  but  not  broken.  Lift  from  the 
syrup  and  spread  in  the  sun  to  dry 
upon  large,  flat  dishes.  Pack  away 
in  small  glass  or  stone  jars,  in  lay- 
ers, strewing  sugar  thickly  between 
each  layer  of  tomatoes.  More  toma- 
toes may  be  scalded  in  the  syrup  left 
in  the  kettle  and  will  be  quite  sweet 
enough. 

Tomato  Preserve. — The  little,  yel- 
low, pear-shaped  tomatoes  are  excel- 
lent for  preserving.  Take  those  not 
entirely  ripe  — the  very  green  ones 
late  in  the  autumn  are  nice — and  re- 
move the  stems ; allow  Yz  lb.  of 
white  sugar  to  1 lb.  of  fruit ; put  into 
the  preserving-kettle,  and  add  water 
enough  to  make  sufficient  syrup.  Do 
not  put  too  much  water  in  at  first,  as 
you  can  add  to  it  if  there  is  not 
enough.  Lemons  should  be  sliced 
and  put  into  it  in  the  proportion 
of  one  lemon  to  every  2 lbs.  of  fruit. 
Cook  until  done  through  and  the 
syrup  looks  thick.  They  make  an 


Watermelon-rind  PUDDINGS,  ETC 


Prunes 


excellent  preserve  and  taste  almost 
like  preserved  figs. 

Watermelon-rind  Preserve. — Pare 
off  the  outside  green  rind  and  lay  it 
into  cold  water  for  four  hours ; then 
change  the  water  and  put  it  on  to 
boil.  There  should  be  enough  of  this 
fresh  water  to  cover  the  fruit  well. 
As  soon  as  it  has  boiled  five  minutes, 
take  it  off  and  put  the  rind  into  gin- 
ger - tea,  where  it  must  remain  all 
night.  The  next  morning  put  it  into 


fresh  ginger-tea  and  let  it  boil  until 
you  can  run  a straw  through  the 
pieces.  Take  the  rind  out  of  the  tea 
and  cut  it  into  small  pieces  an  inch 
or  two  in  length.  Add  the  juice  and 
rind  of  four  lemons  and  some  sliced 
white  race-ginger.  Put  i lb.  of  sugar 
to  i lb.  of  fruit,  and  boil  them  together 
for  one  hour.  The  lemon-peel  should 
be  cut  thin  and  boiled  with  the  rind 
in  ginger-tea.  Carefully  remove  the 
seeds  from  the  slices  of  lemon,  lest  a 
bitter  taste  be  imparted  to  the  preserve. 


Preserve  Omelet. 
Pressed  Beef. 


See  Eggs.  Princess  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

See  Beef.  Provencal,  Veal.  See  Veal. 


Prince  Albert  Cake.  See  Cake. 
Princess  Cream.  See  Creams. 

Princess  of  Wales  Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 


Prunes. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  prunes  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Prunes  and  Prunelloes.  See  Fruits. 
..  Stewed. 

..  Whip. 


PUDDINGS,  PUDDING  SAUCES,  AND 
DUMPLI  NGS. 


General  Remarks.  — Puddings  re- 
quire plenty  of  boiling  water,  which 
must  be  kept  upon  a quick  boil ; 
or,  if  baked,  in  a sharp  but  not 
scorching  oven.  A pudding  in  which 
there  is  much  bread  must  be  tied 
loosely,  to  allow  room  for  swelling. 
A batter  pudding  ought  to  be  tied  up 
firmly.  Moulds  should  be  quite  full, 
well  buttered,  and  covered  with  a fold 
or  two  of  paper  floured  and  buttered. 
Eggs  for  puddings  must  be  used  in 
greater  quantity  when  of  small  size. 
The  yolks  and  whites,  if  the  pudding 
is  wanted  light  and  nice,  should  be 
strained  after  being  separately  well 
beaten.  A little  salt  is  necessary  for 
all  potato,  bean,  or  pease  puddings, 
and  all  puddings  in  which  there  is 
suet  or  meat,  as  it  improves  the  flavor. 
The  several  ingredients,  after  being 


well  stirred  together,  should  in  general 
have  a little  time  to  stand,  that  the 
flavors  may  blend. 

A frequent  fault  of  boiled  puddings, 
which  are  often  solid  bodies,  is  being 
underdone.  Baked  puddings  are  as 
often  scorched.  Puddings  may  be 
steamed  with  advantage,  placing  the 
mould  or  basin  in  the  steamer,  or 
three-parts  dipped  in  a pot  of  boiling 
water,  which  must  be  kept  boiling, 
and  filled  up  as  the  water  wastes. 
When  the  pudding-cloths  are  to  be 
used,  dip  them  in  hot  water,  and 
dredge  them  with  flour ; the  moulds 
must  be  buttered.  Plain  moulds  or 
basins  are  easily  managed.  When 
a pudding  begins  to  set,  stir  it  up 
in  the  dish,  if  it  is  desired  that  the 
fruit,  etc.,  should  not  settle  to  the 
bottom ; and,  if  boiled,  turn  over  the 


299 


General  Remarks  PUDDINGS,  ETC.  General  Remarks 


cloth  in  the  pot  for  the  same  reason, 
and  also  to  prevent  it  from  sticking 
to  the  bottom,  on  which  a plate  may 
be  laid  as  a preventative. 

The  time  of  boiling  must  be  ac- 
cording to  size  and  solidity.  When 
the  pudding  is  taken  out  of  the  pot, 
dip  it  quickly  into  cold  water.  Set 
it  in  a basin  of  its  size.  It  will  then 
more  readily  separate  from  the  cloth 
without  breaking.  Remember  that 
sugar,  butter,  and  suet  become 
liquids  in  boiling.  It  is  from  their 
excess  that  puddings  often  break. 
Be,  therefore,  rather  sparing  of  sugar  ; 
for  if  you  have  much  syrup  you  must 
have  more  eggs  and  flour,  which 
make  puddings  heavy.  It  is  often 
the  quantity  of  sugar  which  makes 
tapioca  and  arrow-root,  boiled  plain, 
troublesome  to  keep  in  shape  when 
moulded.  Rice  or  other  grain  pud- 
dings must  not  be  allowed  to  boil  in 
the  oven  before  setting,  or  the  in- 
gredients will  separate  and  never 
set ; so  never  put  them  into  a very 
hot  oven.  As  a rule,  we  may  assume 
that  such  flavoring  ingredients  as 
lemon-grate  and  juice,  vanilla,  and 
cocoanut  are  more  admired  in  mod- 
ern puddings  than  cinnamon,  cloves, 
and  nutmeg.  Puddings  are  lighter 
boiled  than  baked. 

Raisins,  prunes,  and  damsons  for 
puddings  must  be  carefully  stoned ; 
or  sultanas  may  be  used  in  place  of 
other  raisins.  Currants  must  be 
picked  and  plunged  in  hot  water, 
rubbed  in  a floured  cloth,  and  plumped 
and  dried  before  the  fire ; almonds 
must  be  blanched  and  sliced  ; and  in 
mixing  grated  bread,  pounded  biscuit, 
etc.,  with  milk,  pour  the  milk  on  them 
hot,  and  cover  the  vessel  for  an  hour, 
which  is  both  better  and  easier  than 
boiling.  Suet  must  be  quite  fresh 
and  free  of  fibres.  Mutton  suet  for 
puddings  is  lighter  than  that  of  beef ; 
but  marrow,  when  it  can  be  obtained, 
is  richer  than  either. 

A baked  pudding  for  company  has 
often  a paste  border  or  a garnishing 
of  blanched  and  sliced  almonds  or 
may  be  garnished  in  various  ways, 
as  with  bits  of  currant  jelly.  The 


best  seasoning  for  plain  batter  pud- 
dings are  conserve  of  orange,  lemon- 
rind,  lemon  brandy,  or  orange- 
flower  water.  The  sweetness  and 
flavor  of  puddings  must  in  most 
cases  be  determined  by  individual 
taste.  Sugar  can  be  added  at  table. 

Very  good  puddings  can  be  made 
without  eggs;  but  they  must  have 
as  little  milk  as  will  mix, , and  must 
boil  three  or  four  hours.  Snow  is  an 
excellent  substitute  for  eggs,  either 
in  puddings  or  pancakes.  Two  large 
spoonfuls  will  supply  the  place  of  one 
egg,  and  the  article  it  is  used  in  will 
be  equally  good.  This  is  a useful 
piece  of  information,  especially  as 
snow  often  falls  at  the  season  when 
eggs  are  dearest. 

“ Batter  puddings/’  says  Dr.  Kitche- 
ner, " must  be  quite  smooth  and  free 
from  lumps.  To  insure  this,  first 
mix  the  flour  with  a little  milk,  add 
the  remainder  by  degrees,  and  then 
the  other  ingredients.  If  it  is  a plain 
pudding,  put  it  through  a hair  sieve 
— this  will  take  out  all  lumps  effect- 
ually. Batter  pudding  should  be 
tied  up  tight;  if  boiled  in  a mould, 
butter  it  first ; if  baked,  also  butter  the 
pan.  Be  sure  the  water  boils  before 
you  put  in  the  pudding,  set  your 
stewpan  on  a trivet  over  the  fire, 
and  keep  it  steadily  boiling  all  the 
time.  If  set  upon  the  fire  the  pudding 
often  burns/’ 

According  to  Soyer,  every  sort  of 
pudding,  if  sweet  or  savory,  is  better 
dressed  in  a basin  than  a cloth.  If 
boiled  in  a basin,  the  paste  receives 
all  the  nutriment  of  the  materials, 
which,  if  boiled  in  a cloth,  are  dis- 
solved out  by  the  water,  when  by 
neglect  it  ceases  boiling.  To  cause 
puddings  to  turn  out  well,  the  inside 
of  the  basin  should  be  thoroughly 
larded  or  rubbed  with  butter. 

A pudding-cloth,  however  coarse, 
should  never  be  washed  with  soap ; 
it  should  just  be  dried  as  quickly 
as  possible,  and  kept  dry  and  free 
from  dust,  and  stowed  away  in  a 
drawer  or  cupboard  free  from  smell. 
See  also  Meats,  Game,  etc.,  for  meat 
puddings. 


300 


Arrow-root  Sauce  PUDDINGS,  ETC 


Orange  Sauce 


Pudding  Sauces.  — The  most  usu- 
al sauces  for  puddings  are — sweet 
sauces,  wine  sauces,  arrow  - root 
sauces,  and  fruit  sauces.  They  are 
made  as  follows  : 

Arrow-root  Sauce. — Mix  a table- 
spoonful of  arrow-root  smoothly  with 
a little  cold  water.  Add  the  third  of 
a pint  of  water,  a glassful  of  wine, 
the  juice  of  a lemon,  and  sugar  and 
flavoring.  Stir  the  sauce  over  the 
fire  till  it  boils.  This  sauce  may 
be  varied  by  omitting  the  wine,  and 
using  milk  or  milk-and-water  with 
the  arrow-root.  The  juice  of  almost 
any  fruit,  too,  may  be  boiled  with 
the  arrow-root. 

Brandy  Sauce.  — Beat  one  cup  of 
butter  to  a cream  and  gradually  stir 
into  it  two  cups  of  sugar  and  one  tea- 
spoonful of  flour.  Flavor  with  a gill 
of  brandy.  Set  the  bowl  containing 
the  mixture  in  a dish  of  boiling  water 
and  stir  the  sauce  until  it  is  creamy 
and  foamy. 

Cherry  Sauce  (for  sweet  puddings). 
— Pick  and  stone  I lb.  of  cherries  and 
pound  the  kernels  to  a paste.  Mix 
a teaspoonful  of  arrow-root  smoothly 
with  a little  cold  milk,  and  pour  over 
it  half  a pint  of  boiling  milk.  Boil 
it  for  two  or  three  minutes ; then  stir 
into  it  the  cherries  and  the  kernels, 
a teaspoonful  of  minced  lemon- rind, 
half  a nutmeg  grated,  a table-spoon- 
ful of  sugar,  and  a wineglassful  of 
port.  Let  these  simmer  gently  until 
the  cherries  are  quite  cooked ; press 
them  through  a coarse  sieve,  boil 
the  sauce  again  for  two  or  three 
minutes,  and  serve  it  very  hot.  Good 
melted  butter  may  be  substituted 
for  the  arrow-root,  if  preferred,  and 
when  fresh  cherries  are  not  in  season, 
cherry  jam  may  be  used.  The  sauce 
ought  to  be  as  thick  as  custard  and 
the  color  of  the  cherries.  It  is  very 
nice  for  boiled  or  baked  egg  pud- 
dings. Time,  about  half  an  hour. 


and  flavored,  with  two  eggs  slightly 
beaten.  Put  this  into  a saucepan 
and  stir  it  gently  till  it  thickens,  but 
it  must  not  boil.  Serve  it  in  a tureen 
or  a glass  dish,  and,  just  before 
serving,  add  a little  sugar  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  brandy,  and  grate 
a little  nutmeg  over  the  top.  This 
sauce  is  good  with  fruit  tarts  as  well 
as  sweet  puddings.  Time,  about  ten 
minutes  to  thicken. 

Fruit  Sauces. — Boil  fruit  (almost 
any  kind  may  be  used)  with  a little 
water  until  it  is  quite  soft.  Rub  it 
with  the  back  of  a wooden  spoon 
through  a fine  sieve.  Sweeten  to 
taste,  make  it  hot,  and  pour  the  sauce 
over  the  boiled  or  steamed  puddings. 

Hard  Sauce  (for  puddings). — Cream 
6 ozs.  of  butter  until  light  and  white 
as  possible  ; then  stir  in  gradually  the 
same  weight  of  finely  pulverized  white 
sugar.  It  looks  very  inviting  made 
up  into  the  shape  of  a little  pyramid 
thickly  strewn  with  grated  nutmeg. 
In  addition,  you  may  use  at  pleasure 
vanilla  or  any  other  seasoning  you 
prefer. 

Meringue  Sauce. — Boil  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  sugar  in  a little  water 
until  it  reaches  the  soft  ball  stage 
(see  Candy).  Pour  this  syrup  slowly 
on  to  the  well-beaten  whites  of  three 
eggs,  beating  constantly.  Continue 
the  beating  for  two  minutes  over  a 
moderate  fire.  Add  a little  lemon- 
juice,  orange-juice,  or  currant  jelly. 
Serve  with  sweet  puddings  or  souffles. 

Orange  Cream  Sauce  (for  pud- 
dings and  sweet  dishes). — Soak  the 
thin  rind  of  half  a small  Seville  orange 
in  four  table-spoonfuls  of  water  for 
half  an  hour.  Strain  the  liquid,  add 
2 ozs.  of  loaf  sugar  and  the  juice  of  a. 
St.  Michael’s  orange,  and  boil  quickly 
for  two  minutes.  When  nearly  cold, 
mix  it  with  half  a pint  of  thick  cream 
and  a table-spoonful  of  rum,  and  serve. 


Custard  Sauce  (for  sweet  pud-  Orange  Sauce  (for  sweet  puddings), 
dings).— Mix  a pint  of  milk,  sweetened  — Rub  three  or  four  large  lumps  of 

301 


Peach  Liqueur  Sauce  PUDDINGS,  ETC.  Almond  Pudding 


sugar  upon  the  rind  of  a large  sweet 
orange  until  all  the  yellow  part  is 
taken  off.  Scrape  out  the  pulp  and 
juice  of  two  oranges,  and  add  them 
to  the  flavored  sugar.  Mix  a tea- 
spoonful of  arrow-root  very  smoothly 
with  three  table  - spoonfuls  of  maras- 
chino or  curagoa.  Stir  all  gently 
over  the  fire  for  three  or  four  minutes 
until  the  sauce  thickens;  then  serve 
immediately. 

Peach  Liqueur  Sauce.  — When 
preserving  or  brandying  peaches 
drain  off  the  superfluous  syrup  before 
the  liquor  is  added.  Put  it  over  the 
fire  and  boil  ten  minutes — longer, 
if  it  is  not  as  thick  as  good  cream 
at  the  end  of  that  time.  Skim  and 
strain  through  a hair  sieve.  To  each 
quart  of  such  liquid  add  a half-pint 
of  good  French  brandy.  Bottle  and 
seal.  This,  when  heated,  makes  a 
delicious  sauce  for  puddings,  boiled 
or  baked. 

Strawberry  Sauce.  — Stir  half  a 
cupful  of  butter  until  it  is  soft  and 
creamy;  then  gradually  stir  in  one 
generous  cupful  of  powdered  sugar. 
Add  some  mashed  strawberries.  Place 
the  sauce  on  the  ice  until  needed. 

Another  way:  — Cream  butter  and 
sugar,  and  then  stir  in  the  beaten 
white  of  an  egg  and  a cupful  of  straw- 
berries mashed  fine.  With  the  egg 
added  to  the  creamed  mixture,  more 
berries  may  be  used  without  the 
mixture  separating. 

Sweet  Sauce. — Sweeten  a little  good 
melted  butter  and  flavor  it  with  grated 
lemon-rind,  nutmeg,  or  powdered 
cinnamon.  Strew  a little  of  the 
grate  over  the  top,  and  serve  in  a 
tureen.  A little  wine  or  brandy  may 
be  added  at  pleasure.  This  sauce 
is  suitable  for  almost  all  ordinary 
boiled  puddings. 

Vanilla  Sauce  (for  sweet  puddings). 
— Beat  an  egg,  and  stir  half  a pint 
of  milk  into  it.  Add  sugar  to  taste 
and  six  or  seven  drops  of  vanilla 
flavoring.  The  quantity  should  be 


regulated  by  the  strength  of  the  prep- 
aration. Put  the  mixture  into  a sauce- 
pan over  a gentle  fire,  and  stir  one  way 
till  it  begins  to  thicken,  but  it  must 
not  boil.  Serve  in  a tureen  with  any 
kind  of  dry,  boiled  pudding.  Time, 
about  eight  minutes  to  thicken  the 
custard. 

• 

Wine  Sauce.  — Boil  the  thin  rind 
of  half  a lemon  or  half  an  orange  in 
a wineglassful  of  water  till  the  flavor 
is  extracted.  Take  out  the  rind,  and 
thicken  the  sauce  by  stirring  into 
it  a salt-spoonful  of  flour  which  has 
been  mixed  smoothly  with  a piece  of 
butter  the  size  of  a walnut.  Boil  for 
a minute,  then  add  half  a tumblerful 
of  any  good  wine.  Let  the  sauce  get 
quite  hot  without  boiling;  sweeten, 
and  serve.  If  port  is  used,  the  juice 
of  the  lemon  may  be  added. 

Wine  Sauce,  Superior.  — Take 
half  a tumblerful  of  light  wine  (Ma- 
deira or  sherry),  and  mix  thoroughly 
with  it  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two 
eggs.  Place  the  jar  in  boiling  water, 
add  a little  sugar,  and  whisk  over 
the  fire  till  it  is  nicely  frothed.  Serve 
at  once. 

Almond  Pudding. — Blanch  3 ozs. 
of  almonds,  which  can  be  procured 
shelled  at  any  cake-baker’s  or  con- 
fectionery. When  cold,  rub  them 
in  a mortar  until  they  are  reduced  to 
a paste,  adding  by  degrees,  to  keep 
them  from  oiling,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  rose-water.  Put  over  the  fire  one 
pint  of  new  milk ; with  % lb.  of  pul- 
verized sugar  beat  the  yolks  of  six 
eggs  until  very  light.  As  soon  as 
the  milk  boils,  remove  it  from  the 
fire,  stir  in  the  sugar  and  eggs,  beat- 
ing well  all  the  time ; last  of  all,  siir 
in  the  almonds,  beating  three  or  four 
minutes,  and  then  set  aside  to  cool. 
Froth  a quart  of  cream  that  has  been 
well  sweetened  until  it  is  stiff ; re- 
move the  froth  as  it  rises.  In  a glass 
dish  arrange  sponge  cake,  and  spread 
raspbcrrv-jelly  over  the  slices,  both 
at  bottom  and  sides.  Over  this  pour 
the  custard,  and  on  top  pile  the 


302 


Almond  and  Orange  PUDDINGS,  ETC. 


Apple  Pudding 


whipped  cream.  It  should  not  be 
made  very  long  before  it  is  used. 

Almond  and  Orange  Pudding.  — 

Take  the  outside  rinds  of  three  sweet 
oranges,  boil  them  in  several  waters 
till  they  are  tender ; pound  them  in  a 
mortar  with  % lb.  of  sugar ; blanch 
l/z  lb.  of  sweet  almonds  and  beat 
them  very  fine,  with  rose-water  to 
keep  them  from  oiling.  Break  six- 
teen eggs,  but  froth  only  six  of  the 
whites ; beat  very  light  the  yolks  and 
the  remaining  whites ; cream  also  i 
lb.  of  fresh  butter,  and  beat  all  these 
ingredients  well  together  until  per- 
fectly light.  Then  lay  a thin  puff 
paste  in  the  bottom  of  pie-plates,  and, 
pouring  in  the  batter,  bake.  Sift 
sugar  over  the  top  when  the  pud- 
dings are  drawn  from  the  oven. 

Amber  Pudding. — Peel  six  apples; 
cut  out  the  core  and  cut  them  into 
slices.  Put  them  into  a stewpan 
with  3 ozs.  of  sugar,  2 ozs.  of  butter, 
and  the  peel  and  juice  of  a lemon. 
Stew  the  apples  till  they  are  quite 
tender.  Pass  them  through  a sieve 
into  a large  bowl,  and  stir  to  the 
puree  the  yolks  of  three  eggs.  Line 
a pie-dish  with  puff  paste.  Pour  the 
mixture  into  the  dish,  and  put  it 
into  the  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 
Whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a stiff 
froth.  When  the  pudding  is  set, 
put  the  white  of  an  egg  on  the  top, 
and  sift  sugar  over  it.  Put  it  back 
into  the  oven  to  set,  but  do  not  let  it 
take  any  color. 

Amherst  Pudding  (without  eggs). 
— Three  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour,  two- 
thirds  of  a cupful  of  molasses,  one 
cupful  of  milk,  one  cupful  of  suet 
chopped  fine,  Yz  lb.  of  raisins,  half  a 
nutmeg,  half  a teaspoonful  of  ground 
cinnamon,  teaspoonful  of  soda,  quar- 
ter teaspoonful  of  salt.  Into  the 
flour  put  the  suet,  raisins  (stoned 
and  chopped),  salt,  and  spices.  Add 
the  molasses,  then  the  milk,  to  which 
the  soda,  previously  dissolved  in  a 
little  of  the  milk  (taken  from  the 
cupful)  has  been  added.  Steam  for 


three  hours  in  a tin  pudding-boiler. 
If  suet  cannot  be  had,  substitute  half 
a cupful  of  melted  butter. 

Apple  Charlotte. — Dry  in  the  oven 
stale  bread  enough  to  form,  when 
rubbed,  a pint  of  crumbs;  when  brit- 
tle, roll  it  very  fine.  Pare,  quarter, 
and  core  six  large,  tart  apples ; then 
cut  each  quarter  into  four  pieces, 
once  lengthwise  and  once  across. 
Beat  well  together,  as  for  cake,  butter, 
the  size  of  a small  egg,  one  cupful  of 
white  sugar,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs, 
three  pints  of  milk,  and  a little  cin- 
namon and  nutmeg ; add  the  bread- 
crumbs, then  the  apples,  and,  pouring 
into  a yellow  baking-dish,  cook  slowly 
from  half  to  three  - quarters  of  an 
hour.  When  cold,  beat  the  whites 
with  half  a cupful  of  pulverized  sugar, 
and  frost  the  charlotte.  “Set”  the 
frosting  by  putting  it  into  a hot  oven 
or  with  a salamander.  Eat  cold  .with 
cream. 

Another  way  : — Line  a baking-dish 
with  slices  of  buttered  bread,  put  in 
a layer  of  sliced  apples,  with  sugar 
and  a little  butter,  then  a layer  of 
buttered  bread,  and  so  on  until  the 
dish  is  full,  covering  with  bread.  To 
be  eaten  warm  with  sweet  sauce. 
Almost  all  other  fruits  can  be  used 
in  this  way. 

Apple  Pudding. — Select  juicy  ap 
pies  that  are  a little  acid.  Pare,  core, 
and  cut  them  into  small  pieces ; when 
you  have  about  three  pints,  put  them 
on  to  cook.  Let  them  stew  until 
entirely  done ; take  them  off  the  stove, 
mash  them  well,  and  add  a lump  of 
butter  about  the  size  of  a small  egg, 
sugar  to  taste,  and  a very  little  cin- 
namon ; when  cold,  beat  in  three 
eggs.  Butter  a deep  baking  - dish  ; 
strew  in  bread-crumbs  until  the  bot- 
tom is  covered  to  the  thickness  of 
about  an  inch,  then  about  half  the 
depth  of  the  stewed  apples,  a thin 
layer  of  crumbs,  the  rest  of  the  apples, 
and  another  thick  layer  of  crumbs  ; set 
it  in  the  oven  to  bake,  which,  if  quick, 
will  take  about  half  an  hour.  Just 
before  taking  it  out,  sift  white  sugar 


303 


Apple  Slump 


PUDDINGS,  ETC.  Blackberry  Pudding 


over  the  top ; put  it  in  the  hottest  part 
of  the  oven  to  brown  a minute  or 
two.  Either  eat  cold  with  cream  or 
hot  with  sauce. 

Another  way  : — Take  ten  eggs ; 
leave  out  half  of  the  whites;  a pint 
of  apples  stewed  and  passed  through 
a sieve,  Yz  lb.  of  butter,  the  rind  of  two 
lemons,  and  the  juice  of  one.  Sweeten 
it  as  you  please  and  bake  in  pastry. 


for  a few  hours ; pour  off  the  water ; 
put  the  barley  in  a buttered  stewpan ; 
pour  over  it  two  pints  of  milk,  and 
let  it  simmer  gently  for  two  or  three 
hours,  adding  sugar  to  taste,  and  a 
few  drops  of  any  flavoring  essence ; 
pour  it  into  a buttered  pie-dish ; strew 
a little  ground  nutmeg  over,  and  bake 
for  half  an  4iour.  Eggs  and  butter 
may  be  added  to  enrich. 


Apple  Slump. — One  quart  of  sifted 
flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of 
tartar,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda.  Sift 
these  articles  together ; the  sifting  is 
an  important  part  of  the  preparation, 
and  should  be  done  twice.  Mix  into 
a dough  with  milk  or  water;  milk  is 
preferred.  If  water  is  used,  add  one 
teaspoonful  of  lard.  Make  into  a 
quite  soft  dough,  with  a spoon  in- 
stead of  the  hands.  Take  two  quarts 
of  quartered  apples.  Now  prepare 
one  cupful  of  sugar  and  half  a cupful 
of  molasses  with  two  cupfuls  of  water, 
and  a seasoning  of  nutmeg  or  cinna- 
mon, and  a pinch  of  salt.  Place  the 
apples  and  these  ingredients  in  an 
iron  kettle,  and  as  soon  as  the  mixt- 
ure boils  put  the  dumplings  on  top, 
and  boil  briskly  twenty  minutes. 
At  the  end  of  fifteen  minutes  put  in 
more  water,  if  necessary,  to  prevent 
burning.  Serve  with  cream. 

Baden  Pudding.  — Mix  Yz  lb.  of 
semolina  with  Y\  lb-  of  white  pow- 
dered sugar,  half  a table-spoonful  of 
orange-flower  water,  2 ozs.  of  butter,  a 
beaten  egg,  three-quarters  of  a pint 
of  cream,  and  a little  salt ; put  all  into 
a stewpan,  and  stir  till  smooth,  and 
till  it  boils  over  a'  slow  fire  ; keep  stir- 
ring till  it  parts  from  the  sides  of 
the  stewpan,  draw  it  off  the  fire,  stir 
in  another  egg,  2 more  ozs.  of  butter, 
and  i Y*  ozs.  °f  crushed  ratifias  ; butter 
a mould,  put  the  pudding  in  it,  stand 
the  mould  in  another  vessel  contain- 
ing a little  water,  and  bake  for  an 
hour  and  a quarter.  Serve  with  fruit 
or  custard  sauce. 

Barley  Pudding. — Take  4 ozs.  of 
pearl  barley,  and  soak  it  in  cold  water 


Batter  Pudding,  Boiled.  — To  1 

lb.  of  flour  allow  one  pint  of  sweet 
milk,  1 oz.  of  butter,  and  six  eggs. 
Beat  the  flour  and  milk  together  till 
smooth ; beat  the  eggs  till  light,  and 
add  to  the  flour  and  milk.  Stir  all 
well  together,  adding  the  butter  in 
tiny  lumps.  Pour  into  a well-floured 
bag,  tie  up,  and  put  in  boiling  water. 
Boil  one  hour. 

Batter  Pudding,  Cream.  — A half- 
pint of  sour  cream,  a half-pint  of  sweet 
milk,  a half-pint  of  flour,  three  eggs, 
a salt-spoonful  of  salt,  a half-tea- 
spoonful  of  soda.  Beat  the  whites 
and  yolks  of  the  eggs  separately  and 
add  the  whites  last.  Bake  in  a 
regularly  heated  but  moderate  oven. 
A very  nice  sauce  for  this  pudding  is 
made  by  adding  to  a half-pint  cupful 
of  milk  a table-spoonful  of  flour  or 
corn-starch,  first  wetted  with  a little 
cold  milk.  Then  cream  a half- 
cupful of  butter  and  a whole  one  of 
granulated  white  sugar  smoothly  to- 
gether. When  the  flour  and  milk  have 
boiled  two  or  three  minutes,  add  the 
sugar  and  butter.  Stir  well  together. 

Bird’s  Nest  Pudding.  — Put  into 
the  bottom  of  the  pudding-dish  a few 
stoned  raisins ; fill  two-thirds  full 
with  apples  cored  whole,  and  the 
cavity  filled  with  the  raisins ; make 
a batter  as  for  batter  pudding,  adding 
grated  cocoanut ; pour  the  batter  over 
the  apples  and  bake  in  a moderate 
oven.  When  done  loosen  the  edges 
of  the  crust,  and  turn  it  upper  side 
down  on  a plate. 

Blackberry  Pudding. — Two  cupfuls 
of  stale  bread-crumbs  soaked  in  two 


304 


/ 


Brandy  Pudding 


PUDDINGS,  ETC.  Cabinet  Pudding 


cupfuls  of  milk,  a little  salt,  and  three 
well-beaten  eggs.  Take  one  and  one- 
half  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour  and  stir 
into  it  half  a teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder,  add  one  and  one  - half  pints 
of  blackberries.  Put  into  a buttered 
pudding -dish  and  steam  two  hours. 
Serve  with  a rich  sauce. 

Brandy  Pudding.— Mix  one  cupful 
of  flour  with  % lb.  of  soft  bread- 
crumbs, half  a cupful  of  sugar,  I lb.  of 
shredded  suet,  two  cupfuls  of  seeded 
raisins,  two  cupfuls  of  currants,  one 
cupful  of  candied  orange-peel  or  citron, 
one  small  teaspoonful  each  of  cinna- 
mon, cloves,  nutmeg,  and  salt,  and  last 
five  beaten  eggs  and  a small  cupful 
of  brandy.  Put  in  a buttered  mould 
and  steam  eight  hours.  When  it  is 
sent  to  the  table  put  it  on  a round 
platter,  and  put  six  or  more  lumps 
of  sugar  around  it,  and  a little  paper 
cone  in  the  top,  both  concealed  by 
holly.  Then  turn  brandy  over  the 
whole  and  light.  The  sugar  and 
the  contents  of  the  cone  will  keep  the 
pudding  alight.  Serve  a rich  sauce 
with  this. 

Bread-and-butter  Pudding.  —Make 
a batter  of  five  eggs  and  a pint  of 
milk ; add  a little  salt  before  the  eggs 
are  put  in.  Have  several  slices  of 
bread  about  as  thick  as  for  toasting, 
and  spread  butter  thickly  on  them. 
Rutter  a pudding-dish,  and  put  in  a 
layer  of  bread-and-butter,  then  raisins 
and  currants,  and  another  layer  of 
bread-and-butter,  until  the  dish  is 
nearly  three-quarters  full.  Flavor 
the  batter  with  nutmeg;  pour  over, 
and  bake. 

Bread  Pudding.  — Crumble  up  one 
pint  of  loaf  bread ; pour  over  the 
crumbs  one  quart  of  sweet  milk.  Stir 
in  the  beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs,  one 
cupful  of  sugar,  and  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  melted  butter.  Season  delicate- 
ly with  lemon.  Bake  the  pudding 
until  it  is  of  the  consistency  of  baked 
custard.  When  moderately  cool, 
spread  over  a layer  of  jelly  or  pre- 
serves. Beat  up  the  whites  of  the  five 


eggs  until  very  light,  and  add  five 
table-spoonfuls  of  white  sugar.  Flavor 
this  meringue  with  vanilla,  put  it  on 
the  pudding,  and  brown  slightly. 

Buttermilk  Pudding,  Baked.  • 

Two  eggs,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  half 
a cupful  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful 
of  soda  sifted  in  two  cupfuls  of  flour, 
and  three  cupfuls  of  buttermilk. 
Stir  this  last  into  the  flour,  etc.,  and 
mix  lightly.  Bake  an  hour  in  a 
pudding-dish. 

Buttermilk  Pudding,  Boiled.— One 

pint  of  buttermilk,  five  eggs,  one  table- 
spoonful of  butter,  nearly  a teaspoon- 
ful of  soda,  a light  quart  of  flour. 
Boil,  tied  in  a bag. 

Cabinet  Pudding  (Mrs.  Pope).  — 
Butter  a mould  ; line  the  bottom  with 
raisins  and  with  citron  cut  into  fancy 
shapes ; cover  this  with  pieces  of 
cake,  then  more  raisins  and  citron, 
alternating  with  the  cake,  until  the 
mould  is  full  to  within  an  inch  and  a 
half  of  the  top.  Mix  in  a bowl  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  the  yolks 
of  three  eggs  until  they  are  a cream ; 
then  mix  in  slowly  a pint  of  milk  just 
brought  to  the  boiling-point.  Pour 
this  over  the  cake,  etc.,  in  the  mould. 
Put  this  into  a pan  of  cold  water,  so 
that  the  water  may  cover  one-third 
of  the  mould . Set  it  over  the  fire  until 
the  water  boils;  then  put  the  whole 
into  the  oven  to  bake  an  hour.  Serve 
with  wine  sauce. 

Another  way:  — Line  a plain  tin 
mould  with  butter,  then  cut  up  6 ozs. 
of  candied  fruits ; use  a part,  or  pre- 
served cherries,  or  citron  mixed,  to 
ornament  the  inside  of  the  mould ; 
then  cut  into  slips  x/z  lb.  of  stale 
sponge  cake,  and  place  it  in  layers 
with  the  remaining  candied  fruits, 
intermixing  i oz.  of  ratifias ; make  a 
custard  with  one-half  pint  of  milk, 
and  one  - quarter  pint  of  cream,  a 
wineglassful  of  brandy,  2 ozs.  of  loaf- 
sugar  ; warm  the  milk  and  sugar, 
and  when  hot,  but  not  boiling,  beat 
in  the  yolks  of  seven  eggs;  fill  up 
the  mould  with  this,  cover  and  tie 

305 


ETC.  Citron  Pudding 


Cherry  Pudding  PUDDINGS, 


close,  steam  or  boil  for  an  hour  and  a 
half. 

Cherry  Pudding,  Baked.  — Wash 
and  stone  the  cherries,  put  a layer  of 
them  at  the  bottom  of  a well-buttered 
pie-dish,  and  strew  over  this  a little 
sifted  sugar  and  a small  quantity  of 
finely  chopped  lemon-rind ; lay  over 
these  some  thin  bread  - and  - butter, 
and  repeat  the  layers  until  the  dish 
is  full,  finishing  with  cherries  strewn 
over  with  sugar;  pour  a large  cupful 
of  water  over  the  whole,  and  bake  in 
a good  oven.  This  pudding  may  be 
made  with  dried  or  preserved  cher- 
ries, when,  instead  of  water,  a little 
custard  may  be  used  to  moisten  the 
bread.  The  kernels  of  the  cherries, 
too,  may  be  blanched  and  sliced,  and 
used  instead  of  lemon-rind.  Time  to 
bake,  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Cherry  Pudding,  Boiled.  — Make 
some  good  suet  crust,  line  a plain, 
round  buttered  basin  with  it,  leaving 
a little  over  the  rim ; fill  it  with  cher- 
ries, washed  and  picked,  add  a little 
sugar  and  some  finely  chopped  lemon- 
rind,  wet  the  edges  of  the  paste,  lay 
a cover  over  the  pudding,  and  press 
the  edges  closely  round.  Tie  a floured 
cloth  over  the  pudding,  and  plunge 
it  into  a saucepan  of  boiling  water, 
which  must  be  kept  boiling,  or  the 
pudding  will  become  heavy.  Before 
turning  it  out  dip  the  basin  into  cold 
water  for  a moment.  Serve  with 
sifted  sugar.  A small  pudding  will 
require  about  two  hours  to  boil.  If 
the  cherries  are  not  fully  ripe,  a longer 
time  must  be  allowed. 

Chestnut  Pudding. — Boil  the  large 
Italian  or  Spanish  chestnuts  until 
tender,  remove  the  shells  and  skins, 
and  rub  them  through  a sieve  or  put 
them  through  a vegetable  - press. 
They  may  be  piled  in  a light,  powdery 
heap  in  a glass  dish,  and  have  a 
wineglassful  of  sherry  or  Marsala 
poured  over  them.  Cover  them  with 
whipped  cream  slightly  sweetened. 
This  is  a delicious  dessert,  and  may 
easily  be  made  in  the  United  States. 


Our  native  chestnut  may  even  be 
used  for  it,  but  its  small  size  renders 
the  shelling  and  peeling  a tedious 
task. 

Chestnut  Pudding,  Italian. — Boil  i 
lb.  of  the  large  Italian  chestnuts, 
peel  them,  and  put  them  through  a 
vegetable-press.  Moisten  them  with 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  sherry,  heap 
them  in  a shallow  dish,  and  surround 
or  cover  them  with  whipped  cream. 
Garnish  with  a circle  of  whole  chest- 
nuts, boiled  and  peeled. 

Chocolate  Pudding.  — Three-quar- 
ters of  a cupful  of  chocolate  grated  to 
one  quart  of  new  milk.  Let  it  boil ; 
then  set  to  cool.  Beat  until  very  light 
and  thick  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  re- 
serving the  same  number  of  whites, 
with  which  to  make  a meringue. 
Sweeten  with  lb.  of  white  sugar, 
and  flavor  delicately  with  vanilla. 
The  chocolate  being  cool,  gradually 
stir  in  the  sweetened  eggs,  put  it  into 
a baking-dish,  and  let  it  bake  slowly. 
To  make  the  meringue,  beat  up  the 
whites  until  they  will  stand  alone; 
add  by  degrees  four  table-spoonfuls 
of  sifted  pulverized  sugar,  and  flavor 
with  a little  vanilla  or  lemon-juice. 
When  the  chocolate  portion  is  again 
cool,  heap  up  the  meringue  upon  it, 
and  brown  slightly  by  holding  over 
it  the  red-hot  lid  of  an  oven,  or  some- 
thing of  the  sort. 

Citron  Pudding. — Beat  until  very 
thick  and  light  the  yolks  of  sixteen 
fresh  eggs ; stir  in  gradually,  beating 
all  the  time,  % lb.  of  sugar;  then 
mix  in  % lb.  of  melted  butter  from 
which  all  the  salt  has  been  previously 
washed.  Now  line  two  deep  pie- 
plates  with  puff  paste.  Cut  into  thin 
slices  some  preserved  citron,  and 
lay  closely  over  the  pastry,  leaving 
a margin,  of  course,  around  the  edges. 
Fill  with  the  batter  and  bake  in  an 
oven  whose  heat  is  regular,  but  not 
too  great.  When  drawn  from  the 
oven,  sift  over  them  finely  pulverized 
white  sugar.  They  are  good  whether 
eaten  hot  or  cold,  and  are  considered 


Cocoanut  Pudding  PUDDINGS,  ETC.  Custard  Pudding 


the  most  dainty  and  delicate  of  all 
puddings. 

Cocoanut  Pudding. — Beat  two  eggs 
very  light,  stir  in  a small  cupful  of 
fresh  milk,  add  % lb.  of  grated  cocoa- 
nut,  three  table  - spoonfuls  each  of 
grated  bread  and  powdered  sugar, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter, 
one  cupful  of  raisins,  and  the  grated 
peel  of  one  lemon.  Beat  all  until 
well  mixed.  Pour  the  mixture  into 
a buttered  pudding-dish,  bake  slowly 
for  an  hour,  then  scatter  powdered 
sugar  over  it,  and  serve  with  or  with- 
our  fruit. 

Corn  Pudding. — This  is  a Vir- 
ginia dish.  Scrape  the  substance 
out  of  twelve  ears  of  tender  green 
corn  (it  is  better  scraped  than  grated, 
as  you  do  not  get  those  husky  par- 
ticles which  you  cannot  avoid  with  a 
grater) ; add  yolks  and  whites,  beaten 
separately,  of  four  eggs,  a teaspoonful 
of  sugar,  the  same  of  flour  mixed  in 
a table-spoonfid  of  butter,  a small 
quantity  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  one 
pint  of  milk.  Bake  about  half  or 
three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Corn-meal  Pudding. — Put  into  the 
bottom  of  a bowl  the  well  - beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  three  heaping 
table-spoonfuls  of  meal  that  has  been 
well  sifted,  and  half  a cupful  of  white 
sugar.  Mix  these  ingredients  well 
together,  and  then  stir  in  slowly  one 
quart  of  boiling  milk.  Return  the  ket- 
tle and  boil  five  minutes,  stirring  con- 
stantly. After  this  batter  has  be- 
come quite  cool  add  to  it  the  beaten 
whites  of  two  eggs.  Then  pour  it 
into  a pudding-dish,  and  bake  one 
hour  in  a moderate  oven.  Serve  with 
cream  and  sugar,  or  any  desired 
sauce. 

Cottage  Pudding.  — One  pint  of 
sifted  flour,  one  coffee-cupful  of  sugar, 
the  same  of  milk,  2 ozs.  of  butter,  one 
egg,  the  grated  rind  of  a lemon,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  rubbed 
into  the  flour.  Cream  the  butter  and 
sugar,  add  the  milk  and  yolk  of  egg 


beaten ; alternate  the  flour  and  white 
of  egg  beaten  stiffly.  Bake  in  a well- 
buttered  round  pan  in  a quick  oven. 
Eat  hot,  with  fairy-butter  or  sauce.  A 
much  richer  pudding  is  made  with 
one  pint  of  flour,  half  a pint  of  milk, 
the  same  of  sugar,  x/z  lb.  of  butter, 
two  eggs,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing-powder, and  currants  and  raisins. 
Bake  half  an  hour. 

Cranberry  Pudding,  Baked. — Beat 
together  one  cupful  of  sugar  and  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  then  add 
two  eggs  well  beaten  and  one  cupful 
of  milk.  To  this  add  three  cupfuls  of 
flour  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing - powder  sifted  together.  Then 
add  one  and  a half  cupfuls  of 
cranberries.  Pour  into  a buttered 
pudding -dish  and  bake  in  a mod- 
erate oven.  Serve  hot  with  cranberry 
sauce. 

Cranberry  Pudding,  Boiled. — One 

pint  of  milk,  four  eggs,  and  flour 
enough  to  make  a thick  batter ; then 
add  one  pint  of  cranberries ; pour  into 
a pudding-bag  and  boil  two  hours. 
Eat  with  a very  rich  sauce. 

Custard  Pudding,  Baked.  — Take 
as  many  eggs  as  will  when  level 
cover  the  bottom  of  the  dish  in  which 
you  intend  to  bake  the  custard. 
Break  each  one  into  a separate  cup 
before  it  is  mixed  with  the  rest,  to 
insure  the  quality  of  the  eggs.  Beat 
them  a minute  or  two,  but  not  too 
much,  or  the  custard  will  be  watery. 
Fill  the  dish  with  milk,  sweeten 
liberally,  and  add  a pinch  of  salt. 
Flavor  with  brandy,  lemon,  almond, 
vanilla,  rose-water,  or  orange-water. 
Stir  all  together.  Grate  a little  nut- 
meg on  the  top,  and  bake  in  a mod- 
erate oven.  As  soon  as  the  custard 
is  set  it  is  done  enough.  Time  to 
bake,  about  half  an  hour. 

Custard  Pudding,  Boiled. —Make 
a pint  of  custard  with  half  a pint 
of  milk  and  three  eggs.  Flavor 
and  sweeten  it  liberally,  or  the  pud- 
ding will  be  insipid.  Put  it  into  a 


307 


Dandy  Pudding  PUDDINGS,  ETC 


Frozen  Pudding 


buttered  basin  which  it  will  quite 
fill,  cover  it  with  a piece  of  buttered 
paper,  and  tie  it  in  a floured  cloth, 
then  steam  it  gently  until  done. 
Keep  moving  it  about  in  the  sauce- 
pan for  the  first  few  minutes,  that 
it  may  be  well  mixed.  It  must  not 
cease  boiling  after  it  is  once  put  in. 
Serve  with  wine  sauce  or  a little 
jam.  A large  pudding  may  be  made 
with  very  little  more  expense  by 
adding  another  egg,  another  half- 
pint of  milk,  and  a table-spoonful 
of  flour.  Time,  forty  minutes  to 
steam. 

Dandy  Pudding.  — The  yolks  and 
whites  of  four  eggs  beaten  separately, 
five  table-spoonfuls  of  white  sugar,  to 
be  added  to  the  whites  after  they  are 
well  beaten,  so  that  they  will  stand 
alone.  Four  heaping  table-spoonfuls 
of  brown  sugar  must  be  beaten  into 
the  yolks  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
corn-starch.  Pour  over  the  yolks  one 
quart  of  boiled  milk,  stirring  until 
well  mixed.  Any  flavoring  may  be 
used  to  taste.  The  whites  are  to  be 
put  on  top  and  browned. 

Dumplings. — See  recipes  on  pages 
319,  320. 

Egg  Pudding.  — Beat  three  eggs, 
and  put  in  as  much  sifted  flour  as 
will  make  them  very  thick.  Set  a 
quart  of  milk  and  lb.  of  butter 
over  the  fire ; then  beat  two  eggs, 
and  stir  them  into  the  milk,  contin- 
uing to  stir  till  it  boils ; then  add  the 
three  eggs,  and  let  it  boil  until  it  is 
quite  smooth  and  thick.  Take  it 
off  the  fire,  and  season  it  to  your  taste 
with  sugar,  salt,  and  nutmeg.  Cur- 
rants will  improve  it.  Bake  the 
pudding  for  half  an  hour.  Serve 
with  wine  sauce. 

Farina  Pudding.  — Put  2 ozs.  of 
farina  into  three-quarters  of  a pint 
of  new  milk,  and  let  both  boil  up 
together;  when  done  enough  stir  in 
% lb.  of  butter,  2 ozs.  of  loaf  sugar, 
five  eggs  (omitting  the  whites  of 
two),  the  rind  of  a lemon,  grated, 


a little  orange-flower  water,  and  some 
small  slices  of  citron ; beat  the  yolks 
and  whites  separately,  adding  the 
whites  last  of  all ; when  mixed,  beat 
hard  and  long,  then  bake  in  small 
cups,  and  serve  with  sauce. 

Fig  Pudding. — Soak  a cupful  of 
fine  crumbs  in  a cupful  of  milk  for 
half  an  hour.  Now  add  three  eggs 
well  beaten,  a half-teaspoonful  each 
of  salt,  ground  nutmeg,  and  cinna- 
mon, 3 ozs.  of  powdered  suet,  and  a 
half  - cupful  of  granulated  sugar. 
Into  this  stir  Yz  lb.  of  figs  cut  into 
tiny  bits  and  well  dredged  with  flour. 
Beat  hard  and  turn  into  a greased 
pudding-mould  with  a tightly  fitting 
top.  Steam  for  three  hours,  then 
turn  out  of  the  mould  and  set  in 
the  oven  for  five  minutes.  Serve 
with  a hard  or  liquid  sauce. 

Francatelli  Pudding.  — Pour  a 

pint  of  boiling  milk  on  ten  table- 
spoonfuls of  grated  bread-crumbs; 
let  the  mixture  stand  ten  minutes ; 
then  add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  well 
beaten,  six  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar, 
two  of  butter.  Season  with  lemon. 
When  beaten  light,  stir  in  the  whites 
of  the  eggs,  which  should  have  been 
well  whipped ; pour  into  a buttered 
dish  and  bake  quickly. 

Frozen  Pudding. — To  three  pints 
of  new  milk  put  three  or  four  sticks 
of  fresh  cinnamon,  two  blades  of 
mace,  1 % lbs.  of  the  best  raisins, 
stemmed  and  seeded ; cover  these 
tightly  in  the  stewpan,  and  simmer 
slowly  for  fifteen  minutes  ; meanwhile 
beat  very  light  the  yolks  of  five  eggs, 
adding  slowly,  when  light.  Yz  lb.  of 
pulverized  loaf  sugar;  make  it  as 
light  and  creamy  as  possible ; when 
ready,  strain  the  milk  so  as  to  leave 
out  spice  and  raisins,  but  save  the 
latter,  as  they  are  to  be  put  in  after 
a while ; stir  in  the  eggs  and  sugar 
when  the  milk  boils,  beating  it  until 
it  simmers  once ; remove  it  from  the 
fire,  and  when  cold  stir  in  % lb.  of 
almonds  that  have  been  blanched 
and  pounded  in  a mortar  with  a little 


Fruit  Pudding 


PUDDINGS,  ETC 


Glen  Pudding 


rose-water,  then  the  raisins  that 
were  boiled  in  the  milk,  x/z  lb.  of  best 
citron  cut  into  small,  very  thin  slices, 
and,  if  liked,  a small  portion  of  pre- 
served ginger  cut  thin ; mix  all  well 
together,  add  a quart  of  rich  cream, 
stir  till  mixed  nicely,  and  freeze  as 
ice-cream.  A “ Turk’s-head  ” makes 
a very  pretty  mould  for  it. 

Fruit  Pudding,  Boiled.  — Half  a 
pound  of  flour,  x/i  lb.  of  sugar,  lb. 
of  butter,  lb.  each  of  raisins,  cur- 
rants, and  citron;  a nutmeg,  and  a 
small  piece  of  mace.  Add  four  eggs, 
whisked  for  at  least  half  an  hour. 
Put  the  pudding  in  a well-floured 
cloth,  that  has  also  been  scalded. 
Boil  for  three  hours.  Serve  with  wine 
sauce. 

Fruit  Pudding,  Steamed. — Three 
cupfuls  of  molasses,  I lb.  of  chopped 
suet,  three  eggs,  two  cupfuls  of  sour 
milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  three 
heaping  cupfuls  of  chopped  raisins 
and  two  of  currants,  one  teaspoonful 
of  cloves  and  two  of  cinnamon.  Add 
equal  parts  of  Graham  flour  and  corn 
meal  sufficient  to  make  a stiff  batter, 
and  steam  the  whole  for  four  hours. 

German  Pudding.  — The  Germans 
excel  in  puddings,  and  this  one  that 
bears  the  national  name  can  hardly 
fail  to  please  the  most  fastidious 
taste  if  the  directions  given  are  care- 
fully carried  out.  Put  a pint  of  sifted 
family  flour  into  a bowl  of  conven- 
ient size,  and  moisten  by  stirring  in 
gradually  a gill  of  hot  boiled  milk. 
Add  a salt-spoonful  of  salt,  with  Y\ 
lb.  of  melted  butter,  and  put  the  whole 
together  into  a pan  over  a moderate 
fire,  and  stir  constantly,  but  gently, 
until  the  batter  thickens.  Now  re- 
move it  from  the  fire,  but  continue  to 
work  the  paste.  When  quite  smooth, 
return  it  to  the  fire  and  continue  to 
stir  it,  adding,  a little  at  a time,  % 
lb.  of  sugar,  a flavoring  of  vanilla  or 
orange-rind,  another  % lb.  of  warmed 
butter,  and  a little  more  salt,  with 
the  yolks  of  ten  eggs.  Let  this  con- 
tinue on  the  fire  until  it  begins  to  get 


frothy,  when  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
must  be  added,  which,  meanwhile, 
must  have  been  beaten  as  light  as 
possible.  Have  ready  a well-buttered 
pudding  - mould  strewn  with  finely 
powdered  sugar  and  flour  or  bread- 
crumbs, and  into  this  pour  the  mixt- 
ure as  soon  as  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
have  been  stirred  in.  A round,  dome- 
shaped mould  is  the  usual  one  adopted 
for  this  pudding,  and  is  very  pretty. 
Directly  the  mould  is  filled  it  must 
be  placed  in  a stewpan  holding  boil- 
ing water.  Do  not  let  the  water 
reach  to  more  than  half  the  height 
of  the  mould.  Set  the  stewpan  on 
the  stove  where  the  water  may  be  kept 
at  boiling-point,  but  do  not  allow  its 
quantity  to  be  reduced,  which  can  be 
managed  by  replenishing  it  when  nec- 
essary from  a kettle  of  water  kept  con- 
stantly boiling  and  ready.  In  about 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  the  pudding 
will  be  done.  Turn  it  out,  and  serve 
with  any  sweet  sauce  you  prefer.  In 
Germany  they  commonly  use  sherry 
wine  made  very  hot,  and  merely  sweet 
ened  with  white  sugar. 

Ginger  Pudding. — Two  eggs,  one- 
half  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  New 
Orleans  molasses,  one  table-spoonful 
of  butter,  one  cupful  of  warm  milk,  one 
teaspoonful  of  soda.  If  sour  milk  is 
used,  use  two  large  teaspoonfuls  of 
soda,  one  table-spoonful  of  ginger. 
Serve  with  warm  sauce.  It  may  be 
baked  in  the  morning  and  heated  at 
noon,  or  even  the  next  day,  by  setting 
it  in  the  oven  when  dinner  is  ready. 

Glen  Urquhart  Pudding. — Cut  up 

4 ozs.  of  bread  into  pieces  the  size  of 
dice.  Put  these  into  a basin,  adding 
to  them  3 ozs.  of  powdered  white 
sugar,  the  same  quantity  of  sultana 
raisins,  a few  dried  cherries,  2 ozs.  of 
candied  peel,  minced  small,  the  grated 
rind  of  a lemon,  and  a glass  of  sherry. 
In  a small  enamelled  pan  melt  over 
the  fire  I oz.  of  lump  sugar.  Brown 
the  sugar  a pretty  color,  and  pour 
into  it  half  a pint  of  creamy  milk,  or 
cream,  if  obtainable.  When  the  milk 
is  cool,  add  to  it  the  well-beaten  yolks 


309 


Golden  Pudding  PUDDINGS,  ETC 


Indian  Pudding 


of  four  eggs.  Pour  these  over  the 
ingredients  in  the  ba^in.  Let  all 
soak  together  for  half  an  hour.  But- 
ter a china  pudding-mould,  pour  in 
the  mixture,  cover  over  the  top  with 
a piece  of  buttered  paper.  Stand 
the  mould  in  a pan  of  boiling  water. 
See  that  the  water  reaches  only  half- 
way up  the  sides  of  the  mould.  Boil 
carefully  and  gently  for  an  hour  and 
a half — or,  rather,  steam  the  pudding. 
Turn  out  on  a silver  or  glass  dish. 
Serve  the  pudding  with  a whipped-cus- 
tard  sauce  flavored  with  maraschino. 

Golden  Pudding. — Chop  Y2  lb.  of 
good  beef  suet  very  fine,  and  put  it 
into  a bowl  with  4 ozs.  of  flour,  4 ozs. 
of  sifted  bread-crumbs,  a table-spoon- 
ful of  sugar,  the  grated  rind  of  three 
lemons,  and  a pinch  of  salt.  Mix 
thoroughly,  then  add  three  well- 
beaten  eggs.  Beat  all  briskly  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  turn  into  a but- 
tered mould.  Tie  a strong  pudding- 
cloth  over  the  top,  plunge  into  plenty 
of  boiling  water,  and  keep  it  boiling 
fast  for  three  hours.  Turn  it  care- 
fully out  on  a hot  dish  and  serve  with 
a simple  sauce. 

Gooseberry  Pudding. — One  pint  of 
gooseberries,  six  slices  of  stale  bread, 
one  cupful  of  milk,  half  a cupful  of 
sugar*  one  table  - spoonful  of  butter. 
Stew  the  gooseberries  slowly  ten 
minutes,  cut  the  slices  of  bread  to  fit 
the  dish,  and  toast  a light  brown  ; 
dip  each  piece  while  hot  in  milk  and 
spread  with  the  melted  butter.  Cover 
the  bottom  of  the  dish  with  the  toast, 
then  put  on  a layer  of  gooseberries, 
sprinkle  thickly  with  sugar,  another 
layer  of  toast,  then  berries,  alternat- 
ing until  the  dish  is  full.  Cover 
closely  and  steam  in  the  oven  thirty 
minutes.  Serve  with  it  a rich  sauce. 

Hasty  Pudding. — Put  a pint  and  a 
half  of  milk  into  a saucepan,  add  a 
pinch  of  salt,  and,  when  the  milk  is 
just  boiling  up,  sprinkle  some  fine 
flour  with  the  left  hand  and  beat  well 
with  a fork  in  the  right,  to  keep  the 
flour  from  getting  in  lumps.  Con- 


tinue until  the  pudding  is  like  a stiff, 
thick  batter,  which  it  will  be  when 
about  Y2  lb.  of  flour  has  been  used. 
Let  it  boil  five  or  six  minutes  longer, 
beating  it  all  the  time ; then  turn  it 
into  a dish  with  2 or  3 ozs.  of  fresh 
butter,  and  serve  immediately.  Be 
sure  the  milk  is  quite  boiling  when 
the  flour  is  first  put  in. 

Hasty  Pudding,  Baked.  — Mix  2 

ozs.  of  flour  in  a pint  of  boiling  milk. 
Beat  it  over  the  fire  till  it  is  as  stiff  as 
batter,  then  pour  it  out,  sweeten  and 
flavor  according  to  taste,  and  add  1 
oz.  of  fresh  butter.  When  cold,  stir 
in  three  well-beaten  eggs.  Spread  a 
little  marmalade  or  jam  at  the  bot- 
tom of  a deep  pie-dish.  Pour  in  the 
mixture  and  bake  in  a good  oven. 
Time,  half  an  hour  to  bake. 

Holiday  Pudding.  — Take  two 
large  lemons  and  grate  off  the  peel 
of  both.  Use  only  the  juice  of  one, 
unless  you  like  quite  a tart  flavor. 
Add  to  the  lemon  Y2  lb.  of  fine,  white 
sugar,  the  yolks  of  twelve  and  the 
whites  of  eight  eggs,  well  beaten ; 
melt  Y2  lb.  of  butter  in  four  or  five 
table-spoonfuls  of  cream.  Stir  all 
together,  and  set  the  mixture  over 
the  fire,  stirring  it  until  it  begins  to 
be  pretty  thick.  Take  it  off,  and 
when  cold  fill  your  dish  a little  more 
than  half  fuff,  having  previously 
lined  its  bottom  with  fine  puff  paste. 
Bake  carefully. 

Huckleberry  Pudding.  — Butter  a 
pudding-dish  and  line  it  with  slices 
of  bread  cut  half  an  inch  thick  and 
buttered.  Fill  the  lined  dish  with 
huckleberries,  sprinkle  over  them 
sugar  and  the  grated  rind  and  juice 
of  a lemon.  Place  some  slices  of 
buttered  bread  over  the  whole.  Set 
the  dish  in  a pan  of  water  in  a hot 
oven ; cover  the  pan  with  a plate  and 
bake  one  and  one-half  hours.  When 
the  pudding  is  done  put  over  the  top 
a meringue  browned. 

Indian  Pudding,  Baked.  — Take 
one  pint  of  yellow  Indian  meal  and 


310 


Indian  Pudding 


PUDDINGS,  ETC.  Molasses  Pudding 


stir  into  it  a quart  of  milk  which 
should  be  boiling  hot.  Melt  slowly 
Y\  lb.  of  butter  and  mix  it  with  a 
pint  of  molasses.  Then  stir  it  very 
gradually  into  the  meal,  flavoring 
the  mixture  with  nutmeg  and  the 
grated  rind  of  a lemon.  Now  let  it 
stand,  and  when  partially  cool  stir 
in  quickly  six  eggs  which  have  been 
well  beaten.  Pour  the  batter  into  a 
buttered  pudding-dish  and  bake  about 
two  hours. 

Indian  Pudding,  Boiled.  — Two 

cupfuls  of  milk,  two  cupfuls  of  corn 
meal,  two  eggs,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  beef 
suet,  rubbed  fine,  half  - teaspoonful 
each  of  sugar  and  ground  cinnamon, 
pinch  of  soda  in  the  milk.  Heat  the 
milk  with  the  soda,  and  when  boiling 
stir  in  the  meal,  salt,  and  suet,  and  set 
it  aside  to  cool.  When  cold,  beat  in 
the  spice,  sugar,  and  whipped  eggs, 
and  stir  vigorously.  Boil  in  a brown- 
bread  mould  for  four  hours.  Leave 
room  in  the  mould  for  the  pudding  to 
swell.  Serve  with  hard  sauce. 

Indian  Fruit  Pudding.  — Make 
by  the  preceding  recipe,  but  stir  in 
a cupful  of  seeded  raisins  and  cleaned 
currants  well  dredged  with  flour  just 
before  putting  the  pudding  in  the 
mould. 

Indian  Pudding  (without  eggs). — 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  corn  meal, 
one  cupful  of  milk.  Boil  the  milk 
and  pour  on  the  meal,  then  add  half 
a cupful  of  molasses,  a pinch  of  salt, 
one  quart  of  milk  (cold),  a heaping 
table-spoonful  of  butter  dotted  over 
the  top  in  bits.  Bake  three  hours  in 
a moderate  oven. 

If  sauce  is  desired  to  use  with  this 
pudding,  the  following  recipe  is  an 
excellent  one  : Beat  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  and  one  cupful  of  sugar  together 
until  very  light ; add  half  a gill  of 
boiling  milk.  Let  this  simmer,  but 
not  boil.  When  it  has  thickened  a 
little  remove  from  the  fire,  and,  when 
cool,  flavor  with  any  essence  pre- 
ferred. Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs 


to  a stiff  froth,  and  add  them  to  the 
sauce  just  before  it  is  sent  to  the 
table. 

Lemon  Pudding.  — To  lb.  of 

stale  bread  - crumbs  add  the  same 
weight  of  finely  chopped  suet,  the 
juice  and  grated  rind  of  two  lemons, 
and  4 ozs.  of  sugar ; mix  well,  beat 
three  eggs,  and  add  them ; boil  for  an 
hour  in  a mould.  Serve  with  lemon 
or  wine  sauce. 

Louise  Pudding.  — Six  eggs,  six 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  34  lb.  of  sugar, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  butter  creamed 
with  part  of  the  flour,  a gill  of  wine, 
half  a teaspoonful  of  mace  ground 
up  fine,  half  a pint  of  cream,  and  a 
pint  of  milk.  Bake  in  a deep  dish 
without  lining  of  pastry,  and  eat 
without  sauce. 

Mixed  Fruit  Pudding.  — Soak  one 
cupful  of  bread-crumbs  in  one  cupful 
of  hot  milk ; add  one  table-spoonful  of 
butter,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  one  salt-spoon- 
ful of  spice.  Beat  in  three  eggs  and 
then  add  two  cupfuls  of  fruit — apples, 
raisins,  currants,  peaches,  apricots, 
minced,  or  a mixture  of  several 
varieties.  If  canned  fruit  is  used, 
drain  it  from  the  syrup,  and  use  the 
syrup  in  making  a sauce.  Turn 
into  a buttered  puddin  mould  and 
steam  two  hours. 

Molasses  Pudding. — One  cupful  of 
chopped  suet,  one  cupful  of  molasses, 
one  cupful  of  sweet  milk,  one  cupful  of 
chopped  raisins,  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one  dessert-spoonful  of  soda,  three 
and  a half  cupfuls  of  flour — enough 
to  give  the  consistency  of  ginger- 
bread— half  a cupful  of  butter  and 
sugar.  Flavor  to  taste.  Steam  for 
four  hours,  keeping  the  pot  filled 
with  boiling  water.  Serve  with  hot 
or  cold  sauces,  or  the  following  lemon 
sauce : One  lemon  (juice  and  grated 

rind),  one  piece  of  butter  (size  of  an 
egg),  one  teacupful  of  sugar,  one  egg, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  water.  Let  come 
to  a boil,  and  serve  hot. 


311 


Mother  Eve’s  Pudding  PUDDINGS,  ETC.  Nesselrode  Pudding 


Mother  Eve’s  Pudding.  — The  fol- 
lowing is  from  an  old  English 
cook  : 

Would  you  make  a good  pudding, 
pray  mind  what  you’re  taught. 
Take  two  penn’orth  of  eggs,  when 
they’re  twelve  to  the  groat. 

Six  ounces  of  bread  (let  Mill  eat  the 
crust). 

The  crumbs  must  be  grated  as  fine 
as  the  dust; 

Six  ounces  of  flour  you  may  add  if 
you  please. 

Stir  it  smooth  as  a paste  with  the 
eggs  by  degrees; 

Then  of  the  same  fruit  which  Eve 
once  did  cozen. 

Pared  and  well-chopped,  take  at  least 
half  a dozen; 

Six  ounces  of  plums  from  the  stones 
you  must  sort. 

Lest  they  break  all  your  teeth  and 
spoil  all  your  sport ; 

Six  ounces  of  currants,  be  sure  wash 
them  clean. 

And  six  ounces  of  suet  shred  fine 
and  stir  in; 

Some  lemon  or  citron  peel  add  if  you 
choose — 

Some  people  prefer  it,  but  others 
refuse. 

Six  ounces  of  sugar  won’t  make  it 
too  sweet, 

And  some  salt  and  some  nutmeg  the 
whole  will  complete. 

Let  it  boil  for  six  hours  without  any 
flutter, 

Nor  is  it  quite  finished  without  melted 
butter. 

Mousseline  Pudding.  — Take  the 
rind  of  two  lemons,  and  with  the  juice 
mix  in  2 ozs.  of  powdered  sugar,  2 
ozs.  of  fresh  butter,  a pinch  of  salt, 
and  the  yolks  of  four  eggs.  Put  in 
a stewpan  and  stir  briskly ; let  the 
mixture  just  come  to  the  boil.  Set 
it  to  cool  in  a basin ; when  quite  cold, 
stir  in  one  more  yolk.  Whip  four 
whites  to  a firm  froth,  and  mix  in 
carefully,  so  that  the  mixture  is  per- 
fectly smooth  and  uniform.  Butter 
a plain  mould,  fill  with  the  mixture, 
steam  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Serve  with  fruit  sauce. 


Nesselrode  Pudding.— Make  a rich 
custard  of  a quart  of  milk,  four  cup- 
fuls of  sugar,  and  eight  eggs.  Scald 
the  milk,  pour  it  on  the  beaten  eggs 
and  sugar,  and  return  to  the  range 
in  a double  boiler.  Stir  until  the 
custard  is  thick  enough  to  coat  the 
spoon,  then  remove  from  the  fire  and 
flavor  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  va- 
nilla. When  cold,  turn  into  a freezer 
and  grind  until  half  frozen.  Have 
ready  lb.  of  marrons  places,  minced 
fine.  Remove  the  paddle  from  the 
freezer,  and  with  a long  - handled 
spoon  stir  the  marrons  into  the  half- 
frozen  custard.  Put  the  top  back  on 
the  freezer,  and  pack  down  in  ice  and 
rock-salt  for  three  hours. 

Turn  the  frozen  pudding  into  a 
chilled  platter  and  heap  whipped 
cream  around  it.  This  is  the  simplest 
form  of  Nesselrode  pudding.  A more 
elaborate  preparation  of  this  popular 
dessert  has  stirred  into  it,  besides  the 
marrons,  minced  crystallized  fruit  and 
blanched  and  chopped  almonds. 

Another  way  : — Peel  about  two 
dozen  chestnuts.  Throw  them  into 
boiling  water,  and  let  them  remain 
for  five  minutes.  Drain  them,  take 
off  the  second  skin,  and  put  them 
into  a saucepan  with  a pint  of  water 
and  half  a stick  of  vanilla,  and  let 
them  simmer  until  quite  tender  ; 
then  pound  in  a mortar  to  a smooth 
paste,  and  press  them  through  a 
fine  sieve.  Mix  the  well-beaten  yolks 
of  four  eggs  with  a pint  of  warm 
cream,  and  add  4 ozs.  of  loaf  sugar. 
Put  the  custard  into  a jug,  place  it 
in  a pan  of  boiling  water,  and  stir 
it  gently  until  it  thickens.  Put  in  the 
pounded  chestnuts,  and  pass  the 
mixture  through  a tamis.  Add  a 
glass  of  maraschino,  and  freeze  in 
the  ordinary  way.  Take  1 oz.  of 
stoned  raisins,  1 oz.  of  candied  citron 
cut  into  slices,  and  1 oz  of  dried  and 
picked  currants.  To  prepare  them, 
let  them  soak  in  a little  maraschino 
mixed  with  a small  quantity  of  sugar 
for  several  hours,  or  let  them  simmer 
gently  in  syrup  for  about  twenty 
minutes,  then  drain  and  cool  them. 
When  the  pudding  is  set,  put  the 


312 


Newark  Pudding  PUDDINGS,  ETC 


Plum  Pudding 


fruit  in  with  it.  Boil  % lb.  of  loaf 
sugar  and  a quarter  of  a pint  of 
water  to  a syrup,  beat  it  briskly  with 
a wooden  spoon  for  a few  minutes, 
mix  with  it  the  whites  of  three  eggs 
which  have  been  whisked  to  a firm 
froth.  Work  these  into  the  pudding, 
and  add  last  of  all  half  a pint  of 
whipped  cream.  Place  the  pudding 
in  an  ice-mould,  put  on  the  lid,  freeze, 
and  turn  out  when  wanted. 

Another  way  : — Peel  two  dozen 
chestnuts.  Put  them  into  boiling 
water  for  five  minutes,  then  take 
off  the  second  skin,  and  boil  them 
until  tender  with  half  a stick  of 
vanilla  and  half  the  thin  rind  of  a 
fresh  lemon  in  the  water  with  them. 
Drain  them  well,  and  pound  them  in 
a mortar.  Press  them  through  a 
hair-sieve,  and  mix  with  them  % lb. 
of  powdered  sugar,  a glass  of  maras- 
chino, and  half  a pint  of  thick  cream. 
Dissolve  Y\  oz.  of  gelatine  in  a little 
water,  stir  it  into  half  a pint  of  hot 
cream,  add  the  chestnuts,  etc.,  and 
keep  stirring  the  mixture  gently  un- 
til it  is  sufficiently  stiff  to  hold  the 
fruit  without  letting  it  fall  to  the 
bottom.  Work  in  2 ozs.  of  picked 
and  dried  currants,  and  2 ozs.  of 
candied  citron  cut  into  thin  strips. 
Put  the  mixture  into  an  oiled  mould, 
and  set  in  a cool  place  to  stiffen. 
Time,  about  three  - quarters  of  an 
hour  to  boil  the  chestnuts. 

Newark  Pudding. — One  cupful  of 
fine  bread-crumbs,  one  quart  of  milk, 
five  eggs,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  rice 
flour,  lb.  of  glace  cherries  cut  in 
two,  a flavoring  of  essence  of  vanilla, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  melted, 
half  a teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of 
soda.  Soak  the  crumbs  in  milk. 
Wet  the  rice  flour  with  cold  water  and 
stir  in.  Next  the  yolks  of  eggs,  well 
beaten ; then  the  milk,  butter,  and  oth- 
er ingredients.  Have  ready  a buttered 
mould  ; ornament  the  base  with  cher- 
ries and  angelica  cut  in  shapes.  Bake 
or  steam.  Serve  on  a napkin  with  sauce. 

Peach  Cobbler.  — Prepare  some 
plain  pastry  from  three  pints  of  flour 


and  Y\  lb.  of  mixed  butter  and  lard. 
Line  a good-sized  baking-dish  with 
the  pastry,  and  pour  in  two  quarts 
of  freshly  stewed  peaches,  closing 
the  dish  with  a cover  of  pastry.  Let 
it  be  baked  until  brown.  Serve  with 
cream  or  rich  milk. 

Peach  Pudding. — Fill  a baking- 
dish  about  three-fourths  full  of  ripe, 
juicy  peaches,  pared,  stoned,  and 
cut  into  medium-sized  pieces.  Beat 
light  the  yolks  of  three  eggs ; add 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  white  sugar, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  milk  or  cream, 
and  the  same  quantity  of  sifted  flour ; 
add  the  beaten  whites,  and,  after  sift- 
ing three  table  - spoonfuls  of  sugar 
over  the  fruit,  pour  on  the  batter. 
Mix  all  well  together  and  bake  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  Apples  or  other 
fruit  may  be  substituted  /or  peaches. 

Plum  Pudding.  — The  English 
make  their  plum  pudding  some  time 
before  it  is  to  be  used,  and  then  it 
must  be  put  on  early  in  the  morning 
and  boiled  for  many  hours.  The 
recipe  here  given  is  an  American 
improvement,  we  think,  and  has  the 
advantage  of  being  so  digestible  that 
dyspeptics  maj7  partake  of  it,  in 
most  cases,  with  impunity.  Two 
hours  steady  boiling  is  enough  to 
cook  it  to  perfection,  although  it  will 
not  be  hurt  by  being  kept  longer  over 
the  fire.  The  size  given  is  for  a corn- 
pan}7  of  twenty  persons,  and  if  any 
is  left,  it  is  alwa3Ts  better  the  second 
day  sliced  and  stewed  in  sauce. 

Seed  enough  raisins  to  fill  a quart 
measure  heaping  full ; prepare  one 
pint  of  dried  currants,  a half-pint  of 
preserved  citron  cut  into  small  pieces, 
and  a pint  of  peeled  apples,  chopped 
fine ; add  1 lb.  of  butter,  creamed,  or 
the  same  quantity  of  fresh  beef  suet 
nicely  shredded,  and  a heaping  quart 
of  stale,  light  bread-crumbs.  If  it  is 
more  convenient  to  measure  than 
weigh,  one  pint  of  butter  or  suet  is 
the  right  quantity.  Beat  up  light  and 
separately  the  whites  and  yolks  of 
eight  eggs ; mix  them  in  a large  bowl 
or  tray,  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 


3L3 


Plum  Pudding  PUDDINGS,  ETC 


Plum  Pudding 


without  which  ingredient  the  best- 
made  plum  pudding  will  be  insipid. 
Add  a half-pint  cupful  of  sugar  and 
one  nutmeg  grated  up  very  fine.  Have 
ready  a light  quart  of  sifted  flour; 
with  some  of  it  flour  your  fruit  thor- 
oughly. 

Proceed  to  mix  as  follows  : Having 
your  well-beaten  eggs  ready  in  their 
proper  receptacle,  add  to  them  a pint 
of  milk,  then  stir  in  the  floured  fruit, 
creamed  butter,  and  bread  crumbs, 
lastly  putting  in  just  enough  sifted 
flour  to  make  the  mass  stick  together 
in  a lump.  This  will  probably  con- 
sume about  the  quart  provided.  Next 
dip  your  pudding  cloth  of  stoutest 
muslin  or  jeans  in  boiling-hot  water, 
and  dredge  over  the  inside  a thick 
coating  of  flour.  Put  your  pudding 
into  it.  tie  up  tightly,  but  at  the  same 
time  leave  room  for  it  to  swell.  Have 
plenty  of  boiling  water  in  a roomy 
pot,  which  must  be  filled  up  again 
with  the  same  if  it  boils  away  too 
much.  By  inverting  a plate  in  the 
bottom  of  your  pot  you  will  be  sure 
that  the  pudding  cannot  stick  to  the 
bottom  and  burn,  and  if  you  have  a 
strong  cloth  tied  with  trustworthy 
twine  water  cannot  get  in  — the  two 
worst  mishaps  that  can  befall  the  in- 
experienced cook.  Resume  of  in- 
gredients : One  quart  of  raisins,  one 
pint  of  sliced  citron,  one  pint  of  chop- 
ped apples,  one  pint  of  dried  currants, 
one  pint  of  milk,  a teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one  quart  of  bread-crumbs,  one 
quart  of  flour,  eight  eggs,  one  pint 
of  butter,  a cupful  of  sugar. 

Plum  Pudding.  — Plum  pudding 
is  best  when  boiled  in  moulds,  which 
should  be  well  buttered  before  the 
mixture  is  put  in,  should  be  quite 
full,  and  should  be  covered  with  one 
or  two  folds  of  paper  floured  and  but- 
tered, and  then  with  a floured  pud- 
ding - cloth.  When  bread  is  used, 
which  makes  a pudding  lighter  than 
flour,  a little  room  should  be  allowed 
for  swelling.  A pinch  of  salt  should 
always  be  remembered,  as  it  brings 
out  the  flavor  of  the  other  ingredients. 
After  it  is  tied  in  the  cloth  the  pud- 


ding should  be  put  into  boiling  water 
and  kept  boiling  until  it  is  taken  off, 
when  it  should  be  plunged  quickly 
into  a basin  of  cold  water;  by  this 
means  it  will  be  less  likely  to  break 
when  turned  out  of  the  mould.  It  is 
usual,  before  sending  it  to  table,  to 
make  a little  hole  in  the  top  and  fill 
it  with  brandy,  then  light  it,  and 
serve  it  in  a blaze.  It  is  a good  plan 
to  mix  much  more  than  is  needed, 
and  to  make  several  puddings  in- 
stead of  one,  boil  all  together,  and 
warm  one  up  when  necessary.  If 
well  made,  plum  pudding  will  be 
good  for  twelve  months.  When  it 
is  to  be  used,  plunge  again  into  boil- 
ing water  and  boil  for  at  least  two 
hours. 

Plum  Pudding,  Christmas.  — Take 

1 x/z  lbs.  of  bread  - crumbs,  Yz  lb.  of 
flour,  2 lbs.  of  finely  shred  beef  suet, 

2 lbs.  of  stoned  raisins,  2 lbs.  of  cun- 
rants,  washed,  picked,  and  dried,  2 
lbs.  of  sugar,  Y\  lb.  of  candied  lemon 
and  citron  peel,  that  is,  2 ozs.  of  each, 
two  small  nutmegs,  grated,  the  juice 
of  a lemon,  and  the  rind  finely 
chopped,  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  2 ozs. 
of  sweet  almonds,  blanched  and 
sliced,  sixteen  eggs,  a glass  of  brandy, 
and  as  much  milk  as  will  wet  it,  but 
no  more  than  that,  as  it  makes  the 
pudding  heavy.  It  should  be  as 
stiff  as  paste.  Mix  all  the  dry  in- 
gredients thoroughly,  then  add  the 
eggs  and  milk,  and,  last  of  all,  the 
brandy.  Boil  it,  and  keep  boiling  for 
ten  hours. 

Best  Sauce  for  Plum  Pudding. — 
Take  lb.  of  butter,  wash  the  salt 
from  it,  and  cream  till  very  light ; 
stir  in  Y\  lb.  of  brown  sugar  and  the 
beaten  yolk  of  an  egg ; simmer  over 
a slow  fire  or  on  the  back  of  a stove 
for  a few  minutes,  and  when  at  boil- 
ing heat  add  a half-pint  of  good  cook- 
ing wine.  Serve  in  a sauce-boat,  and 
sprinkle  nutmeg  over  the  surface. 

If  you  would  serve  your  pudding 
in  true  old  English  style,  have  ready 
a gill  of  pure  alcohol,  and  the  pud- 
ding being  turned  out  in  a large  and 
handsome  platter,  just  as  the  servant 


314 


Poor  Man’s  Pudding  PUDDINGS,  ETC.  Queen  of  Puddings 


enters  the  dining-room  let  another 
person  outside  the  door  be  furnished 
with  a lighted  match.  Having  poured 
the  alcohol  over  the  pudding,  ignite  it 
with  the  match,  and  a beautiful,  leap- 
ing blue  flame  will  gladden  the  eyes 
of  the  beholders. 

Poor  Man’s  Pudding.  — Half-cup- 
ful of  chopped  suet,  half  - cupful  of 
seeded  raisins,  half  - cupful  of  cur- 
rants, washed  and  picked ; one  and 
one-half  cupfuls  of  grated  bread,  one 
cupful  of  flour,  one-quarter  of  a cake 
of  compressed  yeast,  half -cupful  of 
brown  sugar,  one  pint  of  milk.  Mix 
all  well  together,  put  into  a well- 
buttered  mould,  set  in  a saucepan 
with  boiling  water  to  reach  half  up 
the  sides  of  the  mould ; steam  it  two 
hours ; turn  out  on  its  dish  carefully, 
and  serve  with  butter  and  sugar. 

Potato  Pudding  (German  recipe). 
— Beat  lb.  of  butter  into  a cream. 

Rub  the  peel  of  a lemon  on  to  some 
white  loaf  sugar;  pound  it,  and  add 
I lb.  granulated  sugar  to  the  above. 
Add  gradually  the  yolks  of  nine  eggs. 
Add,  also  very  gradually,  i lb.  of 
potato  flour.  Lastly,  beat  up  well 
the  whites  of  six  eggs,  and  add  these. 
Stir  the  whole  for  one  hour  continu- 
ously, always  the  same  way.  Butter 
a mould;  strew  it  with  bread-crumbs 
and  put  in  the  mixture.  Bake  for 
one  hour,  and  turn  it  out.  Serve  hot. 
Another  recipe  adds  3 ozs.  of  almonds, 
with  a few  bitter  ones  among  them, 
the  juice  as  well  as  the  rind  of  a 
lemon,  and  three  or  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  maraschino  to  the  above.  No. 
2.  Boil  Yz  lb.  of  potatoes ; rub  them 
through  a fine  sieve ; add  6 ozs. 
of  clarified  butter,  four  eggs,  well 
beaten,  the  juice  and  rinds  of  two 
lemons,  7 ozs.  of  pounded  sugar, 
and  a little  brandy.  Put  paste  round 
the  edge  of  a pie  - dish.  Bake  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Princess  of  Wales  Pudding. — But- 
ter a pint  pudding -mould  or  basin, 
and  fill  it  with  equal  quantities  of 
bread  - crumbs,  sultanas,  and  cur- 


rants ; add  a little  mixed  spice,  and 
two  wineglassfuls  of  brandy ; make 
a raw  custard  of  three  eggs  and 
nearly  a pint  of  milk ; sweeten  and 
flavor  it  to  taste;  pour  it  over  the 
bread-crumbs,  etc.  ; tie  in  the  usual 
way  and  boil  for  an  hour  and  a quarter. 

Princess  Pudding.  — One  gill  of 
cream,  x/z  oz.  of  gelatine,  one  gill  of 
apricot  or  peach  puree,  one  gill  of 
orange  or  pineapple  juice,  yolks  of 
three  eggs,  whites  of  four  eggs,  2 
ozs.  of  sugar,  a little  lemon -juice,  a 
few  drops  of  cochineal.  Put  the  milk 
and  gelatine  into  a jelly -pan,  and 
stir  over  the  fire  until  dissolved,  care 
being  taken  that  it  does  not  boil,  or  it 
will  curdle.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs  well  and  add  them  to  the  milk. 
When  well  mixed,  put  them  into  a 
pan  and  stir  over  the  fire  till  it  thick- 
ens. It  must  not  boil.  Add  the 
sugar.  When  sufficiently  thick,  pour 
out  into  a basin ; add  the  apricot 
puree,  lemon  - juice,  and  cochineal. 
Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a 
very  stiff  froth ; add  them  to  the 
other  ingredients,  stirring  lightly 
but  thoroughly.  Stir  until  nearly 
cold  before  putting  it  into  a mould. 
Ornament  the  mould  with  bright, 
clear  jelly,  and  if  the  weather  is  hot 
stand  for  a short  time  on  ice. 

Queen  of  Puddings.  — Three- 
quarters  of  a pound  of  suet  chopped 
and  mixed  with  a table-spoonful  of 
flour,  Y\  lb.  of  seeded  raisins,  % lb. 
of  currants,  % lb.  of  sugar,  % lb. 
of  fresh  bread-crumbs,  grated  rind  of 
one  lemon,  % lb.  of  candied  orange- 
peel  and  citron,  shredded,  one  - half 
teaspoonful  each  of  ground  cinna- 
mon, cloves,  nutmeg,  and  allspice. 
Mix  the  materials  together,  and  add 
six  eggs  and  a half-cupful  of  brandy. 
Wet  a strong  cloth  and  dredge  it  with 
flour  and  a little  butter;  turn  the 
mixture  into  it  and  draw  the  cloth 
into  a bag,  leaving  enough  room  for 
the  pudding  to  swell  a little.  Put  it 
into  a pot  of  boiling  water  and  let  it 
boil  from  four  to  five  hours,  then  turn 
carefully  into  a dish. 


315 


Raisin  Pudding 


PUDDINGS,  ETC 


Rivoli  Pudding 


Raisin  Pudding. — Shred  8 ozs.  of 
beef  suet  very  finely  and  mix  with 
it  I lb.  of  flour,  a pinch  of  salt,  a des- 
sert-spoonful of  moist  sugar,  a tea- 
spoonful of  baking-powder,  the  eighth 
of  a nutmeg,  grated,  and  10  ozs.  of 
stoned  raisins.  Mix  the  dry  ingre- 
dients thoroughly,  and  stir  in  with 
them  as  much  milk  as  will  make  a 
thick  batter.  Pour  the  preparation 
into  a buttered  dish,  and  bake  in  a 
well-heated  oven.  Turn  out  the  pud- 
ding, strew  sugar  over  it,  and  serve. 
This  pudding  may  be  boiled  as  well 
as  baked.  Time  to  bake,  one  hour 
and  a half. 

Raspberry  - jam  Pudding.  — Two 

table  - spoonfuls  of  jam,  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  flour,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  but- 
ter, one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  half 
teaspoonful  of  soda,  one  cupful  of 
milk,  two  eggs.  Cream  butter  and 
sugar  together.  Beat  eggs  separate- 
ly, the  whites  to  a froth.  Add  the 
yolks  of  eggs  to  sugar  and  butter, 
then  add  other  ingredients.  The 
soda  must  be  dissolved  in  the  milk 
and  added  after  the  flour  and  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  have  been  added. 
Put  in  a mould  in  a steamer  over  hot 
water,  and  steam  for  two  and  one- 
half  hours.  Serve  with  the  following 
sauce  : Cream  together  one  cupful  of 
sugar  and  one-half  cupful  of  butter.* 
Take  one  egg  and  one- half  cupful 
of  cream ; beat  the  cream  in  a double 
saucepan  and  dissolve  the  hard  sauce 
in  it ; add  the  egg,  yolk  and  white 
beaten  together.  Stir  till  it  thickens. 
Add  one  table  - spoonful  of  brandy, 
and  serve  hot. 

Rice  Meringue.  — One  cupful  of 
carefully  sorted  rice,  boiled  in  water 
until  it  is  soft ; when  done,  drain  it  so 
as  to  remove  all  the  water ; cool  it, 
and  add  one  quart  of  new  milk,  the 
well-beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  white  sugar,  and  a 
little  nutmeg ; pour  into  a baking- 
dish,  and  bake  about  half  an  hour. 
Let  it  get  cold  ; beat  the  whites  of 
the  eggs,  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of 


sugar,  flavor  with  lemon  or  vanilla; 
drop  or  spread  it  over  the  pudding, 
and  slightly  brown  it  in  the  oven. 

Rice  Pudding  (with  raisins).  — 
One  quart  of  new  milk,  one  cupful 
of  seeded  raisins,  two  - thirds  of  a 
cupful  of  rice;  keep  it  hot  in  a sauce- 
pan on  the  back  part  of  the  stove 
for  two  hours,  or  until  the  rice  is  soft 
enough.  Then  add  one  quart  of 
milk,  one  cupful  of  sugar,  and,  when 
cool  enough,  two  eggs  (the  yolks  and 
whites  beaten  separately  until  they 
are  frothy),  a piece  of  butter  the  size 
of  a walnut,  and  a very  little  salt. 
Mix  carefully,  so  as  not  to  break  the 
rice,  and  bake  about  half  or  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour. 

Rice  Pudding.  — Take  one  cupful 
of  cold  boiled  rice,  the  grains  broken 
as  small  as  possible,  half  a cupful  of 
butter  cut  into  very  small  pieces, 
sugar  to  taste,  the  whites  and  yolks 
of  five  eggs,  beaten  separately,  and 
new  milk  enough  to  make  a thin 
batter.  Flavor  with  lemon  or  vanilla, 
and  bake  in  a pudding-dish  lined 
with  puff  paste.  If  desired,  the 
whites  of  two  eggs  may  be  omitted, 
and  when  the  pudding  is  cold  beat 
them  perfectly  light  and  spread  them 
over  the  top.  Sprinkle  a little  sugar 
over  the  pudding  and  brown  it. 

An  excellent  plain  rice  pudding 
may  be  made  from  two  quarts  of  milk, 
half  a pint  of  rice,  and  sugar  to  taste. 
Put  into  a tin  pan  and  bake  slowly 
in  the  oven  one  hour.  Currants  and 
raisins  are  very  nice,  added  before 
cooking.  To  be  eaten  cold. 

Rivoli  Pudding.  — Boil  % lb.  of 
ground  rice  in  a pint  and  a half  of 
milk  till  it  is  moderately  thick ; 
stir  into  it  a table- spoonful  of  fresh 
butter,  and  twice  that  quantity  of 
pounded  sugar,  and  leave  to  cool ; 
beat  four  eggs  well  and  add  them ; 
take  a pot  of  apricot  marmalade 
and  cover  the  bottom  of  a buttered 
pie-dish  with  it ; pour  the  rice  batter 
over,  and  bake  till  set  and  nicely 
browned. 


316 


Roly-poly  Pudding  PUDDINGS,  ETC  . Sponge-cake  Pudding 


Puddings  of  this  kind  should  be 
baked  in  dishes  standing  in  pans  of 
water,  to  prevent  the  preserve  catch- 
ing at  the  bottom. 

Roly-poly  Pudding.  — The  pastry 
for  this  favorite  pudding  may  be 
made  in  three  or  four  ways,  accord- 
ing to  the  degree  of  richness  required. 
For  a superior  pudding  mix  i lb.  of 
flour  with  x/z  lb.  of  very  finely  shred 
suet,  freed  from  skin  and  fibre.  Add 
a good  pinch  of  salt,  an  egg,  and 
nearly  half  a pint  of  milk.  Roll  it 
out  three  or  four  times. 

For  a plainer  pudding,  mix  5 or  6 
ozs.  of  suet  with  1 lb.  of  flour,  add  a 
pinch  of  salt,  and  make  a paste  by 
stirring  in  half  a pint  of  water.  When 
suet  is  objected  to,  rub  6 ozs.  of  butter 
or  6 ozs.  of  sweet  dripping  into  1 lb. 
of  flour,  and  proceed  as  before.  When 
a smaller  quantity  still  of  dripping 
is  used,  the  addition  of  a spoonful  of 
baking-powder  will  help  to  make  the 
pastry  light.  Roll  out  the  pastry  to 
a long,  thin  form,  a quarter  of  an 
inch  thick,  and  of  a width  to  suit  the 
size  of  the  saucepan  in  which  it  is  to 
be  boiled.  Spread  over  it  a layer  of 
any  kind  of  jam,  and  be  careful  that 
it  does  not  reach  the  edges  of  the 
pastry.  Begin  at  one  end,  and  roll  it 
up  to  fasten  the  jam  inside;  moisten 
the  edges,  and  press  them  securely 
together.  Dip  a cloth  in  boiling 
water,  flour  it  well,  and  tie  the  pud- 
ding tightly  in  it.  Plunge  it  into  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  at  the 
bottom  of  which  a plate  has  been 
laid  to  keep  the  pudding  from  burn- 
ing, and  boil  quickly  until  done 
enough.  If  it  is  necessaty  to  add 
more  water,  let  it  be  put  in  boiling. 
Marmalade,  syrup,  sliced  lemon  and 
sugar,  lemon -juice  and  sugar,  chop- 
ped apples  and  currants,  either  sep- 
arately or  together,  may  be  used  in- 
stead of  jam  for  a change.  Time 
to  boil  the  pudding,  one  hour  and  a 
half  to  two  hours,  according  to  the 
size. 

Semolina  Pudding. — Soak  a scant 
half-cupful  of  semolina  in  as  much 


cold  milk  for  ten  minutes,  and  then 
stir  this  into  a pint  of  milk  made  hot 
in  a double  boiler.  Add  a table- 
spoonful of  sugar  and  cook  for  about 
half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that 
time  take  the  semolina  from  the  fire, 
and  stir  into  it  a beaten  egg  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla  or  other  flavor- 
ing. This  can  then  be  eaten  hot 
with  sugar  and  cream,  or  it  may  be 
turned  into  a mould,  wet  with  cold 
water,  and  allowed  to  become  thor- 
oughly chilled.  It  will  turn  out  in 
shape.  Marmalade  or  jam  or  stewed 
fruit  is  an  excellent  addition  to  this 
dish. 

Snowden  Pudding. — Prepare  1 lb. 
of  sponge-cake  batter  in  the  following 
manner,  to  be  baked  in  a thin  sheet : 
To  1 lb.  of  eggs,  weighed  in  the  shell, 
put  1 lb.  of  pulverized  white  sugar 
and  10  ozs.  of  flour.  Flavor  with  the 
juice  and  grated  rind  of  a fine,  fresh 
lemon,  or,  if  that  is  not  obtainable,  a 
teaspoonful  of  pure  extract  of  lemon. 
When  baked,  and  while  hot,  spread 
over  the  cake  a layer  of  some  nice 
preserves,  strawberry  or  raspberry 
jam  being  especially  nice  for  the  pur- 
pose. Make  it  into  a roll  as  neatly 
as  possible  and  strew  with  powdered 
sugar.  Serve  with  sweet  sauce. 

Sponge  Pudding.— Boil  in  a double 
boiler  one  pint  of  milk,  a half-cupful 
of  sugar,  and  a pinch  of  salt.  Mix 
together  a half-cupful  each  of  flour 
and  butter,  and  add  to  the  boiling 
milk  to  make  a stiff  batter.  Remove 
from  the  fire,  and  when  partly  cool 
add  the  beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs, 
then  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a 
froth  and  add.  Pour  into  a buttered 
pudding-dish  and  place  the  dish  in  a 
pan  half  filled  with  boiling  water. 
Set  in  a brisk  oven  and  bake  from 
thirty  to  forty-five  minutes.  Serve 
as  quickly  as  possible. 

Sponge  - cake  Pudding.  — Bake 
sponge-cake  batter  in  a flat,  square 
pan,  so  that  it  will  be  about  an  inch 
in  thickness  when  done.  Let  it  cool, 
and  cut  it  into  pieces  about  three 


317 


Strawberry  Tapioca  PUDDINGS,  ETC.  Tapioca  Pudding 


inches  square.  Slice  and  butter  it, 
and  lay  the  pieces  back  as  they  were 
before  you  split  them.  Make  a cus- 
tard with  four  eggs  and  a quart  of 
new  milk ; flavor  and  sweeten  to 
taste.  It  is  very  nice  if  you  use 
almond  flavor  in  the  cake,  and  lemon 
or  vanilla  in  the  custard.  Lay  the 
slices  in  a baking-dish,  so  that  when 
the  custard  is  poured  over  them  it 
will  be  nearly  full.  Bake  half  an 
hour. 

Strawberry  Tapioca. — Soak  over- 
night a large  teacupful  of  tapioca  in 
cold  water ; in  the  morning  put  half 
of  it  in  an  earthenware  baking-dish, 
or  in  the  porcelain  one  of  a silver 
pudding-dish.  Sprinkle  sugar  over 
the  tapioca ; then  on  this  put  a quart 
of  berries,  sugar,  and  the  rest  of  the 
tapioca.  Fill  the  dish  with  water, 
which  should  cover  the  tapioca  about 
a quarter  of  an  inch.  Bake  in  a 
moderately  hot  oven  until  it  looks 
clear.  Eat  cold,  with  cream  or  cus- 
tard. If  not  sweet  enough,  add 
more  sugar  at  table,  and  in  baking, 
if  it  seems  too  dry,  more  water  is 
needed. 

A similar  dish  may  be  made,  using 
peaches,  pared  and  sliced,  instead  of 
strawberries.  Pineapples,  pared  and 
grated,  are  also  excellent  with  tapioca. 

Suet  Pudding  is  made  very  light 
by  the  use  of  bread  - crumbs  as  a 
foundation.  The  ingredients  which 
compose  it  are  three  cupfuls  of  the 
crumbs,  one  cupful  of  flour  with  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  mixed 
with  it,  one  and  a half  cupfuls  of 
chopped  suet,  one  and  a half  cupfuls 
of  raisins,  stoned  and  chopped,  one 
cupful  of  molasses,  one  cupful  of 
milk  with  one  teaspoonful  of  soda 
dissolved  in  it,  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  cinnamon,  cloves,  and  nut- 
meg to  taste.  Steam  or  boil  three 
hours.  The  quantity  of  suet  and 
raisins  may  be  reduced  to  one  cup- 
ful each,  if  preferred.  This  quantity 
makes  sufficient  for  two  desserts  for 
five  people,  and  a very  good  way  to 
qook  it  is  to  divide  it  into  two  por- 


tions, putting  each  in  a small  stone 
ware  bowl.  Set  these,  covered,  in  the 
two  compartments  of  a steamer,  and 
steam  fully  three  hours. 

They  may  be  kept  for  weeks,  and 
require  an  hour  to  heat  thoroughly. 
Serve  on  hot  plates,  with  a liquid 
sauce  flavored  either  with  wine  or 
vinegar,  or  with  a hard  sauce  made 
as  follows  : Mix  together  about  a 
table-spoonful  of  butter  (the  pudding 
is  so  rich  that  this  is  sufficient)  with 
one  cupful  of  powdered  sugar  and 
the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  when  light 
and  creamy  flavor  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  brandy  and  a little  nut- 
meg. 

The  bread-crumbs  for  this  pud- 
ding may  be  prepared  a day  or  two 
before  they  are  needed,  and  it  is  a good 
plan  to  have  stoned  raisins  always 
on  hand.  Work  of  this  sort  may 
often  be  done  during  a period  of  en- 
forced waiting  in  the  kitchen,  and  a 
cupful  of  raisins  may  be  stoned  in 
fifteen  minutes  by  keeping  them  in 
lukewarm  water  during  the  process. 

Sweet  - potato  Pudding.  — To  a 

large  sweet-potato  weighing  2 lbs.  al- 
low lb.  of  sugar,  y*  lb.  of  butter,  one 
gill  of  sweet  cream,  one  gill  of  strong 
wine  or  brandy,  one  grated  nutmeg 
and  a little  lemon-peel,  and  four  eggs. 
Boil  the  potato  until  thoroughly  done, 
mash  up  fine,  and  while  hot  add  the 
sugar  and  butter.  Set  aside  to  cool 
while  you  beat  the  eggs  light,  and 
add  the  seasoning  last.  Line  tin 
plates  with  puff  paste  and  pour  in 
the  mixture.  Bake  in  a moderate 
but  regularly  heated  oven.  When 
the  puddings  are  drawn  from  the 
fire,  cover  the  top  with  thinly  sliced 
bits  of  preserved  citron  or  quince 
marmalade.  Strew  the  top  thickly 
with  granulated  white  sugar  and 
serve,  with  the  addition  of  a glass  of 
rich  milk  for  each  person  at  table. 

Tapioca  Pudding. — Take  six  table- 
spoonfuls of  tapioca,  soaked  overnight 
in  a pint  of  water ; in  the  morning 
scald  a quart  of  milk ; beat  the  whites 
and  yolks  of  three  eggs  separately; 


Tapioca  Pudding  PUDDINGS,  ETC.  Dumpling,  Gooseberry 


stir  the  yolks  into  the  tapioca  when 
it  comes  to  a boil ; let  it  come  to  a 
scald  and  add  the  whites ; then  pour 
it  into  a mould  and  serve  with  cream 
and  sugar. 

Tapioca  Pudding  (with  apples). — 
Soak  x/\  lb.  of  tapioca  overnight;  in 
the  morning  pour  off,  and  put  in  one 
and  one  - quarter  quarts  of  boiling 
water;  sweeten  and  flavor  to  taste. 
Take  six  or  eight  apples  (tart  ones), 
pare,  core,  and  stand  them  in  a bak- 
ing-dish ; fill  the  middle  with  sugar 
and  a little  cinnamon,  pour  the  tapioca 
over,  and  bake  until  the  apples  are 
done.  If  preferred,  the  apples  can 
be  pared,  cored,  and  sliced. 

Vanilla  Custard  Pudding.  — Fla- 
vor a pint  of  milk  with  vanilla.  Boil 
the  milk,  and  pour  it  while  boiling  on 
four  eggs  which  have  been  lightly 
beaten  in  a bowl.  Strain  the  custard, 
let  it  cool,  and  add  sugar  to  taste. 
Pour  the  pudding  into  a buttered 
mould.  Lay  an  oiled  paper  on  the 
top,  put  it  in  a pan  with  water  to  reach 
half-way  up  the  mould,  and  steam 
gently  until  done  enough.  Let  it 
stand  a few  minutes  after  it  is  taken 
up  before  turning  it  out.  Put  it  on  a 
dish  and  garnish  with  preserved  fruit. 
If  liked,  the  pudding  ma3^  be  baked 
instead  of  being  steamed.  Time  to 
set  the  pudding,  half  an  hour. 

Dumplings,  Apple.  — Shred  as 
finely  as  possible  from  6 to  8 ozs.  of 
suet ; mix  with  it  a pinch  of  salt,  I lb. 
of  flour,  a small  spoonful  of  baking- 
powder,  and  enough  cold  water  to 
make  it  into  a stiff  paste.  Use  a 
fork  in  mixing.  Roll  it  out  and  line 
a well-buttered  basin  with  it.  Fill 
the  basin  with  apples,  pared,  cored, 
and  sliced ; add  a little  sugar,  one  or 
two  cloves,  and  a little  water.  Cover 
it  with  the  paste  and  pinch  it  all 
round.  Tie  it  in  a well-floured  cloth 
and  boil  for  two  hours  and  a half. 
As  soon  as  it  is  turned  out  of  the 
basin  cut  a little  hole  in  the  top,  or 
the  steam  will  make  the  pastry  heavy. 
Serve  with  sweet  sauce. 


Dumplings,  Baked  Apple.  — Fif- 
teen apples,  a quart  and  a half  of 
flour,  made  into  pastry  with  % lb.  of 
lard  and  x/z  lb.  of  butter,  I Yz  lbs.  of 
sugar.  Pare  and  core  the  apples ; 
fill  the  holes  with  sugar,  two  cloves, 
and  two  very  small  pieces  of  mace. 
Wrap  each  apple  in  a covering  of  the 
pastry,  put  them  into  a baking-dish, 
sprinkle  with  sugar ; cut  10  ozs.  of 
butter  into  small  bits  and  put  them 
into  the  dish.  Then  fill  it  with  water 
to  within  half  an  inch  of  the  top. 
Put  in  the  syrup  a teaspoonful  of 
cloves  and  half  as  much  mace.  If 
the  syrup  boils  away  too  much,  when 
the  dumplings  are  half  done  add  a 
little  more  water,  and  baste  frequently 
with  the  syrup  to  prevent  them  from 
burning.  Bake  two  hours  and  a 
half.  Serve  with  hard  sauce. 

Dumplings,  Rolled  Apple.  — Peel 
and  chop  fine  some  tart  apples ; make 
a rich  crust  as  for  biscuit,  roll  it  half 
an  inch  thick,  spread  it  thickly  with 
the  apple,  sprinkle  fine  sugar  and 
powdered  cinnamon  over  it;  then  cut 
it  in  strips  two  inches  wide ; roll  it 
up  like  jelly  roll ; put  a little  lump  of 
butter  on  each  roll  after  it  is  put  in 
the  tin.  A.  little  juice  will  drain  from 
the  apples ; keep  this  to  put  into  the 
sauce. 

Dumpling,  Cranberry. — One  quart 
of  flour,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing-powder sifted  together.  Mix  into 
a soft  dough  with  sweet  milk.  Roll 
the  dough  out  very  thin  in  oblong 
shapes,  and  spread  over  it  one  quart 
of  cranberries,  picked  and  washed 
clean.  Add  Y/z  lb.  of  sugar,  sprinkled 
over  evenly.  Fold  over  and  over; 
then  tie  in  a pudding  - cloth  and  put 
into  a steamer,  where  let  it  cook  over 
a steady  fire  for  one  hour,  with  faith, 
never  looking  into  the  pot.  Serve 
with  sweet  wine  sauce  or  sugar  and 
cream. 

Dumpling,  Gooseberry.  — Line  a 
plain  round  basin  with  a good  suet 
crust.  Pick  the  tops  and  stalks 
from  as  many  gooseberries  as  will  fill 


319 


Lumplings,  Lemon  PUDDINGS,  ETC 


Purge 


it,  strew  some  moist  sugar  over  the 
top,  and  cover  with  the  paste.  Pinch 
in  the  sides  securely,  to  prevent  the 
juice  escaping,  and  tie  in  a floured 
.cloth.  Plunge  the  pudding  into  boil- 
ing water,  and  boil  for  two  or  three 
hours,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
pudding. 

Dumplings,  Lemon.  — Mix  6 ozs. 
of  finely  shredded  beef  suet  with 
lb.  of  grated  bread-crumbs,  or,  if  pre- 
ferred, 4 ozs.  of  bread-crumbs  and  4 
ozs.  of  flour.  Add  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  moist  sugar,  the  chopped  rind 
and  strained  juice  of  a large  lemon, 
a beaten  egg,  and  half  a pint  of  new 
milk.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  di- 
vide the  mixture  into  half  a dozen 
parts.  Put  each  part  into  a small 
buttered  cup,  tie  it  in  a cloth,  and  boil 
quickly  until  it  is  done  enough.  Serve 
the  dumplings  hot.  Time  to  boil, 
one  hour. 

Dumplings,  Strawberry. — One  pint 
of  flour,  half  a teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar;  mix 


thoroughly  into  this  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  butter,  then  a heaping  teaspoon- 
ful of  baking-powder;  gradually  add 
a well- beaten  egg  and  one  cup  of 
milk ; roll  out  to  a half-inch  thickness, 
cut  in  squares,  put  a few  berries  in 
the  centre  of  each,  roll  up,  and  boil  or 
steam  about  ten  minutes.  Serve  with 
strawberry  sauce. 

Dumplings,  Suet.  — Shred  finely 
6 ozs.  of  suet,  freed  from  skin  and 
fibre.  Add  to  it  a teaspoonful  of  salt, 
6 ozs.  of  flour,  and  2 ozs.  of  bread- 
crumbs. Mix  the  dry  ingredients 
thoroughly.  Break  two  eggs  into  a 
bowl,  beat  them  well,  mix  with  them 
six  table  - spoonfuls  of  milk,  and 
stir  all  well  together.  Divide  the 
mixture  into  five  or  six  dumplings, 
tie  these  separately  into  cloths  lightly 
dredged  with  flour,  and  boil  them 
quickly  until  done  enough.  If  any 
of  these  dumplings  are  left  they  may 
be  cut  into  slices,  fried  in  butter,  and 
served  a second  time.  Time  to  boil, 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  one  hour, 
according  to  size. 


Pudding  Sauces.  See  Puddings. 

Pudding,  Souffld.  See  Souffles. 

Puff-balls.  See  Cheese. 

Puff  Paste.  See  Cakes ; also  Pies. 

Pulled  Bread.  See  Bread. 

Pumpkin,  Cream  of.  See  Soups. 

Pumpkin  Pie.  See  Pies. 

Punches.  See  Beverages ; also  Ices. 

Purde. — The  puree  of  any  vegetable 
or  meat  is  prepared  by  simmering 
till  the  substance  is  sufficiently  pulpy 
or  soft  to  be  passed  through  a horse- 


hair or  tammy  sieve.  In  the  case  of 
meat,  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to 
beat  in  a pestle  and  mortar  after 
simmering.  The  sieve  is  placed, 
bottom  upward,  over  a dish  or  tin, 
and  with  a wooden  spoon  the  sub- 
stance is  worked  through,  and  what 
passes  through  is  called  a puree.  It 
is  sometimes  necessary  to  moisten 
with  a little  liquor,  which  facilitates 
the  passing  of  the  puree.  The  puree 
of  any  vegetable  stirred  into  a clear 
beef  stock  makes  a soup,  and  gives 
it  its  characteristic  name. 

Puree  of  Game.  See  Game. 

..  of  Carrot.  See  Soups,  Game, 
Chicken. 

..  of  Various  Vegetables. 

See  Vegetables. 


Q 


Quail,  Roast,  Boned.  See  Game. 


Quick  Waffles. 


See  Bread. 


Queen  of  Puddings.  See  Puddings. 

Queen’s  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Quenelles  are  force-meats  made 
into  small  balls  rolled  in  flour  and 
poached.  Frequently  served  in  a 
sauce  as  an  entree,  also  much  used 
in  soups.  See  Force-meats. 

Quick  Cake.  See  Cakes. 


Quinces. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  quinces  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 


Quince  Wine. 

Custard. 
Baked. 
Juice. 

Pie. 

Tart. 
Canned. 
Marmalade. 
Preserved. 


See  Beverages. 
See  Custards. 
See  Fruits. 

See  Pies. 

See  Preserves. 


R 


Rabbits. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  rabbits  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Rabbit,  Force-meat  for. 

See  Force-meats, 
a la  Creole.  See  Game, 

a la  Minute. 

..  a la  Tartare. 

Barbecued. 

Fried. 

..  Marinaded. 

Matelote  of. 


Ragout  Force-meats. 

See  Force-meats. 


Railroad  Cake. 
Raisin  Cake. 
Raisin  Pudding. 
Raisin  Souffle. 
Ramekins,  Fish. 


See  Cakes. 
See  Cakes. 
See  Puddings. 
See  Souffles. 
See  Fish. 


Ragout.  — Strictly  speaking,  a ra- 
gout is  a rich,  highly  flavored  sauce 
made  with  mushrooms,  truffles,  sweet- 
breads, quenelles,  stewed  vegetables, 
etc.,  and  used  as  a garnish  for  entrees 
or  removes.  Ordinarily,  however,  a 
ragout  is  simply  understood  to  mean 
any  highly  flavored  preparation  of 
meat  or  fish,  poultry  or  game.  See 
Beef;  Game;  Mutton;  Veal. 


Ramekins  of  Cheese.  See  Cheese. 

Raspberries. — The  following  recipes 
calling  for  raspberries  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Raspberry  Cordial.  See  Beverages 
Royal. 

Sherbet. 

..  Vinegar. 


21 


321 


Raspberries 


RICE 


Rockfish 


Raspberry  Short-cake.  See  Cakes. 

..  Cream.  See  Creams. 

..  Custard.  See  Custards. 
..  Fool. 

..  Trifle. 

..  Biscuits.  See  Fruits. 

..  Compote  of. 

..  Iced. 

..  Meringue. 

..  Flummery. 

See  Fruits ; also  Jellies. 
..  Ice.  See  Ices. 

..  Ice-cream. 

..  Mousse. 

..  Vinegar.  See  Pickles. 

..  Pie.  See  Pies. 

••  Tart. 

..  Jam.  See  Preserves. 

..  Preserved. 

..  Syrup. 

..  Batter  Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 
Jam  Pudding. 

Ravigote  Salad.  See  Salads. 
Redbirds  in  Jelly.  See  Game. 

Redfish  Jelly.  See  Fish. 


Ribbon  Jelly.  See  Jellies. 

Rice.  — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  rice  will  be  found  under  their 
respective  headings  as  indicated : 
Rice  Bread.  „ See  Bread. 

..  Griddle  Cakes. 

..  Muffins.  .. 

..  Pancakes. 

..  Waffles. 

..  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

Custard.  See  Custards, 

and  Cheese  Fritters. 

See  Fritters. 
Tart.  See  Pies. 

..  Meringue.  See  Puddings. 

..  Pudding. 

..  and  Apple  Souffle.  See  Souffles. 
..  Soup.  See  Soups. 

..  and  Mushroom.  See  Vegetables. 
..  and  Okra 
..  Casserole  of. 

..  Creole. 

..  Curried  and  Tomatoes. 

..  Macaroni. 

Risotto.  .. 

..  Savory. 

..  Timbale  of.  .. 

..  Turkish  Fashion. 


Red-pepper  Catsup.  See  Pickles. 
Red  Snapper.  See  Fish. 

Reed-birds  and  Potatoes. 

See  Game. 

Reinoulade  Dressing.  See  Salads. 

Rhubarb. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  rhubarb  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Rhubarb  Fritters.  See  Fritters. 

..  Pie.  See  Pies. 

Tart. 

..  Turnovers. 

..  and  Oranges,  Marmalade. 

See  Preserves. 

..  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

..  in  Syrup.  See  Vegetables. 

..  Spiced. 

..  Stewed. 

..  Tapioca. 

See  Cakes. 

322 


Rissoles.  — Rissoles  are  composed 
of  savory  mince  of  any  kind  enclosed 
in  pastry  and  fried.  They  may  be 
served  with  gravy,  or  they  may  be 
sent  up  dry  on  a neatly  folded  napkin. 
The  latter  is  the  more  usual  manner. 
They  are  chiefly  useful  as  furnishing  a 
convenient  and  elegant  mode  of  using 
the  remains  of  cold  dressed  meat, 
game,  or  fish.  Patties,  if  fried  instead 
of  being  baked,  will  become  rissoles. 
Rissoles  should  be  thoroughly  drain- 
ed from  fat  either  on  a sieve  or  on 
blotting-paper  before  being  sent  to 
table.  The  difference  between  a ris- 
sole and  a croquette  is  that  a rissole 
is  fried  in  pastry,  a croquette  is  egged, 
breaded,  and  fried.  See  Beef ; Game  ; 
Veal. 

Risotto.  See  Rice. 

Rivoli  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

Rockfish.  ' See  Fish. 


Ribbon  Cake. 


Rolls,  Hot 


ROUX 


Rye  Drops 


Rolls,  Hot. 
Roly-poly  Pudding. 
Roman  Punch. 
Rough-and-ready. 
Roulade  of  Veal. 


See  Bread. 
See  Puddings. 
See  Ices. 
See  Pickles. 
See  Veal. 


Roux  is  simply  a mixture  of  flour 
and  butter,  which,  when  baked,  is 
used  for  thickening  soups  and  gravies. 
It  is  frequently  spoken  of  as  a brown 
or  white  thickening  ; it  should  be  kept 
in  a covered  jar,  and  will  remain  good 
for  months.  A teaspoonful  is  suffi- 
cient to  thicken  a pint  of  gravy.  See 
also  Gravies  and  Thickenings. 

Roux,  Brown.  — Dissolve  lb. 
of  fresh  butter,  skim  it  well,  let  it 
stand  for  a minute,  and  pour  it  away 
from  the  impurities,  which  will  settle 
at  the  bottom.  Put  the  clear,  oily 
part  into  a saucepan  over  a slow  fire, 
shake  into  it  about  7 or  8 ozs.  of  fine 
flour,  or  as  much  as  will  make  a thick 
paste.  Stir  constantly,  and  heat  the 
preparation  slowly  and  equally  un- 
til it  is  very  thick  and  of  a bright- 
brown  color.  Put  it  into  a jar,  and 
stir  a spoonful  into  soup  or  gravy 
as  it  is  needed.  A teaspoonful  will 
thicken  half  a pint  of  gravy.  Roux 
may  be  mixed  with  hot  or  cold  stock. 
If  cold,  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  it  boils ; 
if  hot,  moisten  the  roux  gradually 


with  the  stock,  taking  it  off  the  fire 
to  keep  it  from  lumping. 

Roux,  White.  — Dissolve  1 lb.  of 
fresh  butter  in  a saucepan  over  a 
slow  fire ; skim  it  thoroughly,  and 
pour  the  pure,  oily  part  into  a clean 
saucepan,  leaving  behind  the  thick 
curd  at  the  bottom.  Stir  into  it  very 
gradually  I lb.  of  well  - dried  flour, 
and  stir  it  over  a very  gentle  fire  till 
it  is  thoroughly  baked  but  not  at  all 
browned.  The  more  slowly  it  is  done 
the  better,  but  care  must  be  taken 
that  it  does  not  acquire  the  least 
color.  Put  it  into  a small  jar  for  use  ; 
it  will  keep  for  some  time.  A teaspoon- 
ful will  thicken  half  a pint  of  gravy. 


Royal  Biscuit. 

See  Bread. 

Rum  Ice. 

See  Ices. 

Rum  Omelet. 

See  Eggs. 

Rusk. 

See  Bread. 

Russian  Jellies. 

See  Jellies. 

Russian  Salad. 

See  Salads. 

Russian  Sauce. 

See  Sauces. 

Russian  Soup. 

See  Soups. 

Rye  Bread. 

See  Bread. 

Rye  Drops. 

See  Bread. 

s 


Sage  is  a plant  much  used  in  cook- 
erjr  for  stuffings  and  sauces  ; it  is  sup- 
posed to  assist  digestion.  Red  sage  is 
the  best,  and  green  sage  the  next  best. 
The  following  recipes  in  which  sage  is 
used  will  be  found  under  their  respec- 
tive headings  as  indicated : 


Sage  and  Onion  Stuffing. 

See  Force-meats. 
Onion  and  Apple 
Stuffing. 

..  and  Onion  Gravy.  See  Gravies. 
Sago  Soup.  See  Soups. 


SALADS 

VEGETABLE  AND  FRUIT  SALADS,  AND  SALAD  DRESSINGS 


A salad  well  prepared  is  a charm- 
ing compound,  and,  when  taken  with 
oil,  ver\>-  wholesome,  attractive,  and 
agreeable ; badly  prepared,  it  is  an 
abomination.  A Spanish  proverb  says 
that  four  persons  are  needed  to  make  a 
good  salad — a spendthrift  to  throw  in 
the  oil,  a miser  to  drop  in  the  vinegar, 
a lawyer  to  administer  the  seasoning, 
and  a madman  to  stir  the  whole 
together.  Lettuce  is  generally  sup- 
posed to  form  the  foundation  of  a 
salad,  but  there  are  few  fresh  vege- 
tables that  may  not  be  used ; and  on 
the  continent  of  Europe  every  known 
vegetable  is,  when  plainly  dressed, 
used  cold  for  salads ; and  cold  meat, 
fish,  and  game  are  served  in  the 
same  way.  Among  the  vegetables 
appropriate  for  salads  may  be  named 
asparagus,  beets,  celery,  cucum- 
bers, chervil,  cauliflowers,  dandelion 
leaves,  endive,  French  beans,  lettuces 
of  all  kinds,  lentils,  mustard  and 
cress,  mint,  onions,  parsley,  potatoes, 
radishes,  shallots,  sorrel,  tarragon, 
tomatoes,  beans,  and  water- cress. 
Three  or  four  rules  must  be  closely 
observed  if  the  salad  is  to  be  a suc- 
cess. First,  the  vegetables  must 


be  young,  freshly  cut,  in  season, 
and  in  good  condition,  and  should 
be  kept  in  a cool,  damp  place. 
Secondly,  the  vegetables  should  not 
be  allowed  to  lie  long  in  water.  If 
withered,  they  may  be  put  in  for  a 
short  time  to  render  them  a little 
crisp,  but,  if  fresh,  they  should  be 
simply  rinsed  through  the  water 
and  dried  immediately.  Thirdly — 
and  this  point  requires  most  careful 
attention — the  vegetables  must  be 
rendered  perfectly  dry  after  washing. 
The  best  way  of  doing  this  is  to 
drain  the  salad  and  shake  it  first 
in  a colander,  then  in  a clean  napkin 
held  by  the  corners  and  shaken  light- 
ly till  the  salad  is  dry.  Fourthly, 
cut  the  salad  with  a silver  knife,  or 
tear  it  in  shreds ; do  not  prepare  it 
until  a short  time  before  it  is  wanted, 
and  on  no  account  mix  the  salad 
dressing  with  it  until  the  last  moment. 
It  is  a very  usual  and  excellent  plan 
to  pour  the  liquid  into  the  bottom 
of  the  bowl,  lay  the  shred  vegetables 
upon  it,  and  mix  the  salad  at  table. 
A wooden  fork  and  spoon  are  the 
best  for  this  purpose.  Salads  may 
be  garnished  in  various  ways,  and 


324 


Salad  Dressing  without  Oil  S ALADS 


Mayonnaise  Dressing 


afford  ample  opportunity  for  the 
display  of  artistic  taste.  Boiled  beet- 
root, cut  into  slices  stamped  into 
fancy  shapes  or  cut  into  trellis-work  ; 
sliced  cucumbers  ; olives  ; hard-boiled 
eggs,  cut  into  quarters  or  rings ; rad- 
ishes ; nasturtium  leaves  and  flowers, 
etc.,  may  all  be  used.  When  these 
are  arranged  tastefully  the  salad 
presents  a very  attractive  appearance. 
Of  course  the  garniture  must  not 
entirely  hide  the  salad. 

Salad  Dressing  without  Oil.  — 

Mix  a teaspoonful  of  salt  and  half 
a teaspoonful  of  white  pepper  with 
three  table  - spoonfuls  of  thick,  sour 
cream.  Beat  well,  and  add  a table- 
spoonful of  vinegar.  If  liked,  the 
rind  of  a fresh  lemon  may  be  rubbed 
upon  sugar  and  dissolved  in  the  vin- 
egar before  it  is  mixed  with  the  cream. 

Another  way  :■ — Rub  the  yolks  of 
two  hard-boiled  eggs  till  smooth. 
Add  a spoonful  of  mixed  mustard,  a 
quarter  of  a teaspoonful  of  white 
pepper,  half  a salt-spoonful  of  salt, 
a pinch  of  cayenne,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  thick  cream.  When 
all  these  ingredients  are  thoroughly 
mixed,  add  very  gradually  as  much 
vinegar  as  will  make  the  S£.uce  of 
the  consistency  of  cream. 

Boiled  Salad  Dressing. — To  four 
well-beaten  eggs  stir  a pint  of  vinegar, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar,  a teaspoon- 
ful of  mustard,  salt  and  paprika  to 
taste.  Turn  all  the  ingredients  into 
an  agate  or  porcelain-lined  saucepan, 
and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  boilings 
point  is  reached.  Add  two  teaspoon- 
fuls of  butter,  and  beat  until  it  is 
thoroughly  incorporated.  When  cold, 
turn  into  a preserve  jar  and  set  in  the 
refrigerator. 

Cream  Salad  Dressing.  — To  two 

well-beaten  eggs  add  one  teaspoonful 
of  sugar,  one-quarter  of  a spoonful  of 
salt  and  mustard,  and  then  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  one 
of  cream.  Cook  the  mixture  in  a 
double  boiler,  stirring  it  till  it  thickens 
like  cream.  Cool,  and  use. 


French  Salad  Dressing. — Rub  the 

inside  of  a small  bowl  with  a clove  of 
garlic.  Put  into  the  salad-spoon  a 
salt-spoonful  of  salt,  half  as  much 
pepper,  and  fill  the  spoon  with  oil. 
With  the  fork  stir  all  together,  and 
turn  into  the  bowl.  Add  five  spoon- 
fuls more  of  oil  and  two  generous 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar.  Mix  all  to- 
gether and  pour  over  the  salad. 

Mayonnaise  Dressing.  — Every- 
thing to  be  used  in  its  preparation 
must  be  thoroughly  chilled.  Leave 
in  the  ice-box  for  an  hour  a deep 
soup-plate,  two  eggs,  and  the  bottles 
of  salad  oil  and  vinegar.  When 
you  are  ready  to  mix  the  dressing, 
put  the  egg  yolks,  drained  from 
every  drop  of  the  whites,  into  the 
cold  soup  - plate,  and  squeeze  upon 
them  a few  drops  of  lemon  - juice. 
With  a silver  fork  stir  the  yolks, 
and  at  the  same  time  drop  upon  them 
a teaspoonful  of  oil.  As  the  egg 
thickens  you  may  add  the  oil  in 
larger  quantities,  until  you  have 
put  in  a pint.  When  about  half 
the  pint  is  used,  stir  into  the  dressing 
a pinch  of  mustard,  a dash  of  paprika, 
and  the  amount  of  vinegar  needed  to 
give  the  flavor  desired.  The  vinegar 
will  thin  the  mixture,  but  the  re- 
mainder of  the  salad  oil  will  bring 
it  again  to  its  former  thick  condi- 
tion. 

Another  way  : — Chill  the  yolk  of  a 
raw  egg  on  ice;  then  put  the  yolk 
on  a very  cold  plate,  and  add  a little 
salt,  a dash  of  cayenne,  and  a gill  of 
olive  oil,  drop  by  drop,  stirring  con- 
stantly in  the  same  direction ; when 
it  forms  a cream,  add  a teaspoonful 
of  French  mustard  and  a table-spoon- 
ful of  cider  vinegar ; stir  all  the  time 
to  keep  from  curdling.  Lemon-juice 
or  tarragon  vinegar  may  be  used 
instead  of  the  cider  vinegar.  The 
mustard  is  frequently  omitted. 

Another  way  : — Fill  a bowl  with 
ice-water  and  let  stand  ten  minutes ; 
empty  it,  and  break  in  the  yolks  of 
two  raw  eggs ; beat  until  creamy, 
add  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  as 
much  pepper,  and  a table-spoonful 
325 


Mayonnaise,  Swiss 


SALADS 


Assorted  Salad 


of  oil ; beat  until  thick,  and  add  gradu- 
ally half  a pint  of  oil ; thin  with  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  sharp  vinegar, 
pouring  a few  drops  at  a time.  The 
beating  should  be  done  regularly 
from  right  to  left,  and  the  dressing 
should  be  a rich  cream  color  when 
done. 

Another  way  : — Have  ingredients 
and  utensils  very  cold.  Put  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs  in  a bowl  and 
squeeze  upon  them  a teaspoonful 
of  lemon -juice.  With  a silver  fork 
stir  with  a rotary  motion,  and  as 
soon  as  the  lemon -juice  is  blended 
with  the  yolks  begin  to  pour  in  salad 
oil — a teaspoonful  at  a time  at  first 
— then,  as  the  dressing  thickens, 
in  larger  quantities.  When  a cup 
and  a half  of  oil  has  been  used,  add 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a quarter  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  French  mustard,  and 
a heaping  salt-spoonful  of  paprika. 
This  will  thin  the  dressing  a lit- 
tle. Now  stir  in  gradually  half  a 
cupful  more  of  the  oil,  and  set 
the  mayonnaise  on  the  ice  until 
wanted. 

Mayonnaise,  Swiss. — Make  a good 
mayonnaise  in  the  ordinary  style. 
If  you  have  a cupful  of  the  dressing, 
have  ready  two  rather  large  pota- 
toes, boiled  until  tender.  Put  these 
through  a vegetable  - press,  or  beat 
them  fine  and  light  with  a fork. 
Whip  these  into  the  mayonnaise, 
taking  care  that  the  whole  is  thorough- 
ly blended,  and  that  there  are  no  hard 
lumps  in  the  potato.  Season  to 
taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and,  if 
you  like,  a few  drops  of  onion-juice. 
Just  before  serving  beat  the  white 
of  the  egg  very  light  and  stir  it  quickly 
into  the  dressing.  This  is  excellent 
on  a salad  of  vegetables,  fish,  or  meat. 
It  is  improved  by  the  addition  of  one 
or  two  good-sized  raw  tomatoes,  peel- 
ed and  cut  into  small  pieces.  As  a 
matter  of  course,  this  is  a very  heavy 
dressing,  not  suitable  for  green  sal- 
ads, and  when  served  with  cold  meat 
and  bread-and-butter  takes  the  place 
of  a side  dish. 


Remoulade  Dressing.  — Mash  the 
hard-boiled  yolks  of  three  eggs  until 
perfectly  smooth,  then  add  a raw 
yolk,  and  work  with  a spoon ; add 
half  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  a pinch 
of  cayenne,  and  a gill  of  oil,  drop 
by  drop,  stirring  rapidly ; then  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  vinegar  gradually, 
mix  well,  and  use. 

Apple  Salad.  — Cut  small,  round 
slices  from  the  tops  of  six  nice  King 
apples,  hollow  them  out,  making  the 
pieces  as  large  as  possible.  Do  not 
spoil  the  shapes  of  the  apples.  Cut 
the  scoopings  in  small  squares  and 
put  them  in  a bowl.  Cut,  also  the 
same  size,  the  same  quantity  of  white 
celery  hearts  and  English  nuts.  Have 
half  a pint  of  mayonnaise.  Mix  it 
with  the  salad,  and  finish  with  quarter 
of  a pint  of  whipped  cream.  Mix 
gently,  and  serve  in  the  apples. 

Another  way : — Apple  salad  is 
made  with  firm,  tart  apples,  which 
should  not  be  prepared  until  a short 
time  before  it  is  to  be  served.  Peel 
and  cut  the  apples  into  tiny  cubes,  and 
to  each  cupful  of  the  apple  dice  add  a 
cupful  and  a half  of  celery,  also  cut 
fine.  Stir  lightly  together,  and  im- 
mediately pour  over  all  a thick  may- 
onnaise dressing.  The  salad  may  be 
garnished  with  the  green  leaves  of  the 
celery. 

Asparagus  Salad. — Boiled  aspara- 
gus is  frequently  served  cold,  with  a 
plain  French  salad  dressing. 

Assorted  Salad. — Cut  all  the  white, 
tender  part  of  one  bunch  of  celery  in 
pieces  half  an  inch  long  ; add  to  it  all 
the  small  white  leaves.  Wash  the  sal- 
ad in  plenty  of  cold  water,  then  put  it 
in  ice-water  one  hour  before  using,  so 
as  to  have  it  very  crisp.  Parboil  for 
two  hours  two  bunches  of  red  beets, 
drain,  and  bake  them  for  one  hour. 
Peel,  and,  when  cold,  slice  them  thin. 
Drain  the  salad  in  a salad-basket  or  in 
a clean  towel,  not  squeezing  it.  Add 
the  beets  to  it,  then  pour  French  salad 
dressing  over  the  salad ; stir  gently 
with  two  forks,  and  serve. 


Banana  Salad 


SALADS  Celery-and-apple  Salad 


Banana  Salad. — A strip  of  the  peel 
of  a large  and  perfect  banana  may  be 
turned  back,  and  most  of  the  pulp  care- 
fully scooped  out.  The  short,  thick 
variety  of  banana,  in  either  red  or  yel- 
low, is  the  best  for  this  purpose.  To 
fill  the  space  left  by  the  removal  of  the 
pulp,  prepare  a mixture  of  thinly  sliced 
banana,  shredded  orange  or  grape- 
fruit, seeded  and  peeled  white  grapes, 
and  a few  kernels  of  English  walnuts 
or  pecans  in  small  pieces.  In  their 
season,  stoned  cherries  may  be  added. 
All  must  first  be  mixed  in  a bowl  with 
a generous  supply  of  dressing,  and 
after  the  yellow  cases  are  filled  with 
the  salad,  each  must  be  laid  on  lettuce 
leaves.  These,  like  the  apples,  must 
be  prepared  a short  time  before  using. 
Either  a mayonnaise  or  a good,  boiled 
dressing  may  be  used. 

Bean  Salad.  — Yellow  wax-beans, 
cooked  until  tender,  cooled,  and  laid 
in  French  dressing  for  an  hour  before 
dinner,  may  be  made  into  a delicious 
salad  by  chilling  them,  arranging 
them  on  a round  platter  on  lettuce, 
and  putting  a mould  of  mayonnaise 
in  the  centre.  This  is  made  by  pre- 
paring it  half  a day  before  it  is  need- 
ed, by  setting  a small  cupful  of  gela- 
tine in  a mould.  If  this  is  too  much 
trouble,  the  stiff  mayonnaise  alone 
may  be  piled  in  the  centre  with  a 
heart  of  lettuce. 

Beet  Salad. — To  some  nicely  boiled 
and  well-sliced  beets  lay  alternate  rows 
of  fresh  onion,  also  sliced,  and  pour 
over  them  any  salad  sauce,  or  simply 
oil  and  vinegar,  if  preferred.  Garnish 
with  curled  parsley.  Instead  of  raw 
onions,  cold  boiled  ones  may  be  used, 
together  with  slices  of  egg,  hard  boiled. 

Bohemia  Salad. — Yolk  of  one  or 
two  raw  eggs,  one  or  two  young  onions 
or  leeks,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sal- 
ad oil,  one  table-spoonful  of  vinegar, 
some  lettuce,  and  slices  of  beet-root, 
salt,  and  mustard.  Take  the  yolk  of 
one  or  two  raw  eggs,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  salad  you  require,  beat  them 
up  well,  add  a little  salt  and  mustard, 


and  chop  up  one  or  two  young  onions 
or  leeks  about  the  size  of  grass ; then 
add  the  salad  oil  and  the  vinegar,  and 
beat  the  whole  up  into  a thick  sauce. 
Cut  in  the  salad,  and  put  thin  slices  of 
beet-root  at  the  top.  Sprinkle  a little 
salt  over  it,  and  do  not  stir  it  up  till  the 
moment  you  use  it. 

Cabbage-and-celery  Salad  (a  South- 
ern dish). — Shred  cabbage  very  fine 
and  cut  celery  into  small  dice ; mix 
well  together  and  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Put  one  gill  of  vinegar 
into  a saucepan  and  stir  in  a well- 
beaten  egg.  Stir  over  a hot  fire  till  as 
thick  as  cream,  add  a salt-spoonful  of 
mixed  mustard,  a table-spoonful  of 
olive  oil,  and  a teaspoonful  of  sugar. 
Beat  well  together,  and  when  cold  pour 
on  the  cabbage  and  celery. 

Cabbage  Salad. — One  head  of  cab- 
bage, chopped  fine ; three  eggs,  six 
table  - spoonfuls  of  cream,  three  ta- 
ble-spoonfuls of  melted  butter,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  black  pepper,  one  tea- 
spoonful of  salt,  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  mixed  mustard,  one  cupful  of  cider 
vinegar.  Stir  together  all  the  ingredi- 
ents of  the  dressing  but  the  cream  and 
let  them  cook  over  the  fire  until  they 
come  to  a boil ; then  set  the  dressing 
aside  to  cool,  when  the  cream  is  to  be 
added  and  the  whole  poured  over  the 
cabbage. 

Cauliflower  Salad. — Boil  a head  of 
cauliflower,  throw  in  cold  water  until 
wanted,  then  tear  apart,  dry  on  a soft 
towel,  put  in  a salad-bowl,  pour  over 
a teacupful  of  mayonnaise ; garnish 
with  lettuce  leaves  and  rings  of  hard- 
boiled  eggs.  Serve  immediately. 

Celery  - and  - apple  Salad. — To  two 

cupfuls  of  crisp,  white  celery,  cut  into 
half-inch  lengths,  add  a cup  of  firm, 
tart  apples,  cut  into  tiny  squares. 
Mix  thoroughly  together,  and  cover 
with  a mayonnaise  dressing.  The 
dressing  must  be  made  before  the 
salad,  so  that  it  may  be  poured  over 
apple  and  celery  as  soon  as  they  are 
mixed,  as  the  apple  will  become  dis- 


327 


Celery-and-radish  Salad  SALADS 


Cold  Slaw 


colored  if  allowed  to  stand  exposed  to 
the  air. 

Celery  - and  - radish  Salad.  — Cut 

crisp,  well-blanched  celery  into  half- 
inch lengths,  and  heap  it  in  a salad- 
bowl  . Border  it  with  small,  half-peeled 
radishes,  and  cover  with  a mayonnaise 
dressing. 

Cherry  Salad. — They  are  stoned, 
laid  on  lettuce,  sprinkled  with  pow- 
dered parsley,  and  French  dressing 
is  poured  over,  and  the  whole  is  al- 
lowed to  stand  for  a while,  when 
the  juice  is  turned  out  and  poured 
over  the  second  time.  Time,  fifteen 
minutes. 

Chestnut  Salad. — Shell  a pint  of 
the  large  Spanish  or  Italian  chest- 
nuts, rejecting  all  that  are  hard  or 
shrivelled,  and  put  the  kernels  over 
the  fire  in  enough  boiling  water  to 
cover  them.  Cook  them  half  an 
hour,  or  until  the  skins  slip  off  read- 
ily, as  with  scalded  almonds.  Take 
them  from  the  saucepan,  and,  as 
soon  as  they  are  cool  enough  to 
handle,  remove  the  skins.  This  may 
be  done  with  the  help  of  a fruit-knife 
or  penknife,  and  the  skins  will  come 
off  readily.  Arrange  the  peeled  chest- 
nuts on  crisp  lettuce  leaves,  pour 
over  them  a French  dressing,  and 
serve  very  cold. 

Chicken  Salad.  — The  chickens 
should  be  well  fatted,  of  medium  size, 
and  the  flesh  delicate  and  white.  Cook 
them  in  the  morning,  using  the  water 
they  were  boiled  in  for  soup,  omitting 
all  seasoning  until  the  fowls  have  been 
taken  out.  When  entirely  cold,  cut 
into  small  pieces,  and  place  in  a cool, 
dry  cellar  until  wanted.  If  the  meat 
inclines  to  dry,  throw  over  it  a clean 
cloth  slightly  dampened  in  cold  water. 
Take  the  finest,  whitest  heads  of  cel- 
ery, have  both  the  celery  and  chicken 
in  pieces  about  an  inch  long  and  half 
as  thick.  When  ready,  put  the  celery 
between  clean,  sweet  cloths  to  make 
it  perfectly  dry,  and  then  prepare  your 
dressing  as  follows : To  a pair  of 


chickens  allow  three-quarters  of  a 
bottle  of  the  freshest,  sweetest  salad 
oil,  two  scant  table-spoonfuls  of  the 
best  mustard,  the  yolks  of  two  raw 
eggs,  and  of  ten  or  twelve  hard-boiled 
ones.  The  eggs  should  boil  vigorous- 
ly at  least  ten  minutes ; longer  will 
not  hurt  them  ; cool  them  by  plunging 
into  cold  water,  and  remove  the  shells. 
Break  the  raw  eggs,  dropping  the 
yolks  into  a large  dish,  and  stir  the 
same  way  for  about  ten  minutes  ; then 
slowly  add  the  mustard  ; mix  it  in 
well ; then  add  a teaspoonful  of  the 
best  vinegar,  and  when  this  is  incor- 
porated, add  the  oil,  a drop  at  a time, 
stirring  it  all  the  while  and  always 
the  same  way.  Into  the  hard-boiled 
yolks,  which  have  been  well  smoothed 
and  mashed,  mix  lightly  about  a tea- 
cupful of  vinegar,  and  pour  slowly 
into  the  first  preparation,  mixing  as 
lightly  as  possible  with  a fork.  Sea- 
son the  chicken  and  celery  with  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste,  and  pour  on  the 
dressing.  It  should  not  be  allowed 
to  stand  long  after  mixing.  In  cold 
weather,  if  set  where  it  is  too  cold,  the 
ingredients  of  the  mixture  will  sep- 
arate and  ruin  it. 

Cold  Slaw.  — Select  the  finest 
heads  of  bleached  cabbage.  Cut  up 
enough  to  fill  a large  vegetable-dish  ; 
shave  very  fine.  Boil  four  eggs  till 
hard  ; mix  the  yolks  smoothly  with  a 
little  cold  water,  and  gradually  add 
to  them  a cupful  of  sweet  cream, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  mixed  mustard, 
one  heaping  table-spoonful  of  sugar, 
a teaspoonful  of  salt,  % lb.  of  butter, 
and  a little  pepper,  if  you  choose. 
Place  all  these  ingredients,  mixed 
together,  in  a small  stewpan  over  the 
fire.  Put  the  cabbage  in  the  dish  in 
which  it  is  to  be  served.  Let  the 
sauce  come  to  a boil,  pour  it  hot  over 
the  cabbage,  and,  lastly,  add  half  a 
teacupful  of  good  vinegar.  It  may 
not  be  irrelevant  to  remark  that  the 
term  " cold,”  sometimes  appended  to 

slaw,”  has  no  reference  to  the  dish 
being  served  up  hot  or  cold,  but 
is  only  an  English  corruption  of 
Kohl,  the  German  name  for  cabbage. 

328 


Cress-and-Celery  Salad  SALADS 


Grape-fruit  Salad 


Cold  slaw  merely  signifies  cabbage 
salad. 

Cress  - and  - celery  Salad.  — Take 
equal  parts  of  cress  and  cut  up  cel- 
ery stalks,  put  in  a salad-bowl,  sprin- 
kle with  minced  sweet  herbs,  pour 
French  dressing  over  it,  and  serve 
very  cold. 

Cucumber  Salad. — Cut  a slice  from 
a cucumber,  and  scoop  out  the  inside; 
cut  bits  of  tomato  in  similar  size  and 
mix  the  two  with  French  dressing. 
Return  to  the  shell,  and  put  each 
cucumber  on  a plate  by  itself,  on 
lettuce.  Small,  round  balls  of  cream- 
cheese  are  nice  with  this. 

Dandelion  Salad. — Wash  and  pick 
over  carefully  a quantity  of  dande- 
lions; let  stand  in  cold  water  several 
hours  ; drain  and  shake  dry  ; put  them 
in  a salad-bowl,  sprinkle  with  salad 
herbs,  and  pour  a plain  salad  dressing 
over. 

Dr.  Kitchener’s  Cooked  Salad. — 

Arrange  in  a tasty  way,  in  the  centre 
of  a deep  dish,  a pile  of  cold  cauli- 
flower, delicate  cabbage,  asparagus- 
tops,  sea -kale,  green  pease,  kidney- 
beans,  artichoke  bottoms,  or  whatever 
happens  to  be  in  season.  A variety 
is  advantageous.  When  nicely  pack- 
ed together,  pour  over  the  whole  a 
French  salad  dressing,  and  have  a 
table-spoonful  of  capers,  pickled  nas- 
turtium buds,  of  chopped  gherkins 
thrown  into  it.  As  a final  decora- 
tion, shred  very  finely  over  the  sur- 
face a few  fresh  leaves  of  lettuce,  so 
as  to  conceal  what  lies  beneath  them. 
Cold  fowl  or  game,  cold  roast  veal  or 
other  meat,  crab,  lobster,  or  any  kind 
of  cold  fish  may  also  be  used  in  this 
salad. 

Fish  Salads.  See  Fish. 

Fruit  Salad.  — Divide  one  large 
orange  and  two  mandarins  into 
carpels,  slice  two  bananas,  shred  a 
small  pineapple,  peel  and  seed  two 
dozen  Malaga  grapes,  and  shell  and 

329 


halve  a dozen  English  walnuts. 
Heap  all  upon  crisp,  delicate  leaves 
from  the  heart  of  lettuce,  and  pour 
over  them  a mayonnaise  dressing. 
Serve  very  cold,  almost  frappe. 

Fruit  Salad  (with  whipped  cream). 
— Select  the  smallest  pineapples,  cut 
them  one-third  from  the  top,  and  scoop 
them  out  almost  entirely.  Peel  three 
nectarine  oranges,  remove  all  the  thin 
skins,  and  with  a sharp  knife  cut  them 
in  small  pieces.  Peel  and  cut  in  small 
slices  four  red  bananas,  and  do  the 
same  with  four  peaches.  Peel  and 
take  out  the  seeds  of  2 lbs.  of  hot- 
house grapes.  Put  all  these  fruits  in 
a bowl.  Squeeze  the  juice  of  two 
large  oranges  in  another  bowl,  and 
add  to  it  lb.  of  powdered  sugar,  one- 
half  pint  of  maraschino,  one  gill  of 
brandy,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  finely 
cracked  ice;  mix  well.  Fill  up  each 
pineapple  with  the  fruits  and  pour 
over  the  dressing,  reserving  a few 
grapes  to  decorate  the  cream.  Beat 
very  stiff  one  quart  and  a pint  of  good, 
fresh  cream.  When  stiff , add  to  it  x/z 
lb.  of  powdered  sugar  and  one  gill  of 
maraschino ; mix  gently.  Put  the 
cream  in  a high,  round  fruit-dish,  and 
put  the  remaining  grapes  around  the 
cream.  Procure  some  fresh  moss,  and 
put  it  in  plenty  of  cold  water  the  pre- 
vious day  to  make  it  very  green. 
When  ready  to  dress  the  fruit,  shake 
the  moss  in  a napkin  and  then  ar- 
range it  on  a round  tray.  Place  the 
pineapples  around  the  bowl  of  cream, 
and  serve  very  cold. 

Grape-fruit  Salad. — The  small,  in- 
ferior grape-fruit  cannot  be  used  for 
this  purpose.  Instead,  select  the  larg- 
est and  finest  you  can  find.  One  big 
grape-fruit  will  serve  three  or  four 
people.  Peel  it  carefully  and  divide 
it  into  carpels,  removing  the  seeds 
and  every  particle  of  the  thick  white 
skin.  A fragment  of  this  bitter  cover- 
ing may  spoil  the  dish  for  the  one  to 
whose  share  the  distasteful  morsel 
falls.  Arrange  the  sections  of  fruit 
upon  lettuce,  and  pour  over  all  a 
French  dressing.  Like  every  other 


Green-pepper  Salad 


SALADS 


Merveille  Salad 


salad,  this  should  be  thoroughly  chill- 
ed before  it  is  served. 

Green  - pepper  Salad.  — They  are 
selected  as  large  as  possible,  and  as 
shapely.  Then  the  pointed  ends  are 
cut  off  and  the  seeds  taken  out  and  a 
mixture  of  shredded  cabbage  and  cel- 
ery, or  cabbage  alone,  with  a stiff 
mayonnaise,  is  put  in,  the  cabbage 
showing  at  the  top,  and  a bed  of 
lettuce  hearts  is  arranged  for  them, 
the  light  and  dark  green  contrasting 
prettily. 

Ham  Salad. — Take  i lb.  of  lean, 
cold  boiled  ham,  and  cut  fine.  Chop 
half  as  much  celery  and  mix  with  the 
ham ; put  in  a salad-bowl,  pour  over 
half  a pint  of  mayonnaise  and  gar- 
nish with  rings  of  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Italian  Salad. — Italian  salads  com- 
prise every  variety  of  vegetables,  cook- 
ed or  raw,  and  meat  or  fish,  though  it 
must  not  be  supposed  that  the  differ- 
ent ingredients  are  heaped  together 
without  due  regard  to  harmony.  We 
give  here  one  of  the  best  salads  : Slice 
a couple  of  cold  potatoes  and  the  half 
of  a beet-root,  and  mix  them  with  some 
boiled  celery  and  Brussels  sprouts. 
Season  with  vinegar  or  tartar  sauce. 
Add  any  cold  meat  in  small  pieces, 
and  serve  as  soon  as  mixed.  Place  the 
meat  lightly  in  the  bowl,  and  throw 
the  salad  mixture  over.  Crown  the 
whole  with  stoned  olives. 

Lent  Salad. — Fill  the  bottom  of  a 
salad-dish  with  crisp  lettuce  leaves. 
Cut  cold  boiled  or  baked  fish  into 
pieces,  and  fill  the  dish  with  it;  pour 
over  a pint  of  mayonnaise  dressing. 
Chop  the  coral  of  a lobster  very  fine  ; 
sprinkle  it  over  the  salad.  Garnish 
with  rings  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  and 
serve  very  cold. 

Lettuce  is  undoubtedly  the  queen 
of  salads.  Use  the  tender  leaves  only, 
and  put  them  in  cold  water  twenty 
minutes  to  make  them  crisp.  Drain  in 
a colander,  and  toss  in  a napkin  un- 
till thoroughly  dry.  The  plain  F rench 


dressing  is  best,  but  some  prefer  to  add 
chopped  herbs  when  mixing  the  salad 
with  the  dressing.  All  varieties  of 
lettuce  are  prepared  in  the  same  way. 

Lobster  Salad.  See  Fish. 

Mixed  Salad.  — Boil  eggs  hard  ; 
chop  up  separately  the  yolks  and  the 
whites  into  a coarse  powder.  Grate 
a quantity  of  hung  beef ; cut  filleted 
anchovies  or  Dutch  herrings  into 
strips.  In  the  middle  of  the  dish  make 
a compact  heap  of  blanched  lettuce 
hearts.  Surround  this  with  a circle  of 
water-cress  or  other  dark  or  bright- 
green  salad.  Next  to  this  strew  a cir- 
cle of  powdered  egg-yolk,  then  of  the 
whites,  then  of  the  beef.  Make  an 
outer  circle  of  whatever  salad  you  have 
that  is  freshest  and  most  convenient  ; 
cut  up  small.  Decorate  the  central 
heap  with  the  strips  of  herring  or  an- 
chovy, and  garnish  the  outer  rim  of 
the  dish  with  a few  patches  of  pickled 
red  cabbage  and  chopped  parsley 
or  chives,  placed  alternately  round 
its  circumference.  Serve  mayonnaise 
sauce  or  salad  mixture  in  a separate 
boat.  This  medley  salad  may  be 
greatly  varied  as  season  and  circum- 
stances render  convenient. 

Merveille  Salad. — Divide  one  nice 
head  of  white  lettuce  into  four  parts. 
Cut  from  each  part  a small  heart,  to  be 
placed  on  top  of  each  corner  of  the  pre- 
pared salad.  Shred  all  the  remain- 
ing white  leaves.  Remove  the  stems 
of  a white  chicory,  using  only  the  ten- 
der part.  Divide  one  romaine  salad 
into  four  parts.  Chop  finely  one  large 
cooked  and  cold  beet,  and  pour  over 
it  one  table-spoonful  of  wine  vinegar. 
Add  three  table  - spoonfuls  of  finely 
chopped  white  celery.  Place  all  the 
leaves  for  the  salad  in  a bowl  of  ice- 
water  for  half  an  hour  before  using  it. 
While  these  are  cooling,  chop  finely 
one  hard-boiled  egg.  Cut  four  an- 
chovies into  very  small  pieces.  Drain 
the  salad  in  a salad-basket  or  dry  be- 
tween the  folds  of  a clean  towel.  Ar- 
range them  artistically  in  a salad-bowl, 
and  over  the  leaves  spread  first  the 


330 


1 


Orange  Salad 


SALADS 


Ravigote  Salad 


chopped  beet  and  egg,  then  the  an- 
chovies, and  finish  with  half  a table- 
spoonful of  parsley,  chopped  fine,  dis- 
tributed about  it.  When  ready  to  serve, 
pour  over  the  salad  a French  dressing, 
and  mix  gently  by  lifting  the  leaves 
here  and  there  with  the  salad  fork. 

Orange  Salad. — Peel  three  or  four 
good  oranges,  free  them  from  the 
white  skin,  and  cut  them  into  slices 
of  about  a quarter  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness. Arrange  them  neatly  in  a 
compote  dish,  strew  3 ozs.  of  finely 
powdered  sugar  over  them,  and  pour 
upon  them  a wineglassful  of  sherry, 
a wineglassful  of  brandy,  and  an- 
other of  rum  or  whiskey.  Curagoa 
or  maraschino  may  be  used  instead 
of  the  above  mixture,  if  preferred. 
Many  persons  find  no  wine  so  agree- 
able in  an  orange  salad  as  port.  This 
dish  should,  if  possible,  be  made  some 
time  before  it  is  wanted. 

Oyster  Salad.  See  Fish. 

Pea  Salad.  — Remove  the  centre 
from  tomatoes.  Chop  fine  a few 
sprigs  of  parsley  with  a slice  of  onion 
and  mix  them  with  a large  cupful  of 
cooked  pease;  fill  the  tomatoes,  and 
put  on  the  top  of  each  one  a spoonful  of 
mayonnaise  dressing.  Chopped  cu- 
cumber or  celery  may  be  used  with 
pease.  The  stuffed  tomato  should  be 
served  on  a lettuce  leaf. 

Peanut  Salad.  — Shell  the  nuts, 
which  must  be  fresh  and  thoroughly 
roasted,  and  remove  the  brown  skins  ; 
just  before  serving,  arrange  them  on 
a bed  of  white  and  tender  escarole 
chicory  or  small  white  lettuce  leaves  ; 
dress  the  salad  with  a plain  French 
salad  dressing.  The  salad  must  be 
eaten  as  soon  as  it  is  dressed,  or  it 
will  lose  its  crispness  and  flavor. 

Pineapple  Salad.  — This  is  one  of 
the  best  of  all  the  fruit  salads,  served 
either  during  the  meal  or  as  a sweet 
course  at  the  end,  both  of  which  forms 
are  suggested.  For  the  first,  pick 
up  the  pineapple  in  rather  large  bits 


and  put  in  a glass  dish,  and  put 
strawberries  over  the  top.  Cover 
with  French  dressing,  and  stand 
the  dish  on  a platter  on  which  is  a 
quantity  of  broken  ice.  Or.  to  vary 
the  salad,  prepare  as  above,  but 
pass  mayonnaise  with  it,  besides  the 
dressing.  To  turn  this  into  a sweet 
dish,  and  yet  keep  its  salad  form, 
prepare  the  pineapple  and  cover  it 
with  powdered  sugar  and  sprinkle 
it  with  the  juice  of  a lemon.  When 
ready  to  serve,  put  maraschino  cher- 
ries over  the  top,  and  pour  the  juice 
over  all ; serve  in  the  ice-bed  as  before. 

Potato  Salad. — Peel  and  boil  six 
potatoes,  and  set  aside  to  cool.  When 
cold,  cut  into  slices,  and  mix  with 
the  potatoes  two  onions,  minced  very 
small,  and  a table-spoonful  of  minced 
parsley.  Pour  a French  dressing 
over  the  salad,  tossing  and  stirring 
gently,  that  the  potatoes  may  become 
coated  with  the  dressing.  Set  in  a 
cold  place  until  wanted.  The  German 
potatoes,  which  can  be  bought  in  any 
" delicatessen  ” store,  are  best  for 
salads,  as  the  slices  keep  their  shape 
better.  American  potatoes  are  meal- 
ier and  are  apt  to  crumble. 

Ravigote  Salad. — Clean  two  large 
heads  of  white  lettuce,  remove  the 
stems  of  the  large  leaves,  cut  the 
leaves  in  four  pieces.  Keep  the  heart 
large  enough  to  be  cut  in  four  pieces. 
Wash  in  ice-water,  and  drain  in  the 
salad  - basket  or  shake  gently  in  a 
clean  towel,  taking  care  not  to  bruise 
the  leaves.  Peel  and  slice  thin  two 
cucumbers  of  medium  size,  and  put 
in  a bowl  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  a few  lumps  of  ice  for  two  hours 
before  using.  When  ready,  drain  in 
colander  and  wipe  lightly  with  a towel. 
Prepared  in  this  way,  cucumbers  are 
easy  to  digest.  Peel  and  slice  the 
largest  radishes  of  a bunch.  Keep 
the  smaller  ones  whole  and  trim  them 
prettily  to  decorate  the  salad.  Leave 
in  ice-water  until  ready  to  use.  Cut 
in  thin  slices  one-half  pint  of  cold, 
boiled  potatoes  ; cut  in  thin  strips  two 
inches  long  *4  lb.  of  cold,  lean,  cooked 


331 


Russian  Salad 


SALADS 


Turnip-top  Salad 


ham,  and  % lb.  of  cold  smoked  tongue. 
Arrange  all  in  a salad-bowl,  putting 
the  nicest  pieces  on  top.  Set  in 
ice-box  until  time  to  serve.  Make 
and  keep  cold  the  following  dressing  : 
Crush  in  a bowl  the  yolks  of  three 
hard-boiled  eggs,  and  also  the  yolk  of 
a raw  one.  Add  slowly  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  olive  oil,  stirring  to  a 
smooth  paste.  Add  one  teaspoonful 
of  dry  mustard.  Mix  well  with  this 
one  small  green  onion,  one  table- 
spoonful of  gherkins,  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  parsley,  all  chopped  fine,  one 
clove  of  garlic,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  salt-spoonful  of  white  pepper.  At 
the  last  stir  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
tarragon  vinegar.  Pour  the  dressing 
over  the  salad.  When  ready  to  serve, 
remove  the  garlic  clove.  The  salad 
must  only  be  stirred  at  the  table. 
Any  cold  roast  meat  may  be  used 
instead  of  the  ham  and  tongue,  mak- 
ing the  salad  a very  palatable  one, 
and  also  quite  inexpensive. 

Russian  Salad. — Cut  some  carrots, 
turnips,  parsnips,  and  beet-root  into 
.strips  with  a scoop.  Add,  if  liked, 
other  vegetables,  such  as  asparagus, 
pease,  French  beans,  gherkins,  capers, 
scraped  horseradish,  etc.  Put  the  veg- 
etables in  a salad-dish  in  layers,  sea- 
son each  layer  with  mayonnaise  or 
tartar  sauce,  and  gradually’  dimin- 
ish the  size  of  the  layers  till  the 
salad  comes  to  a point.  Ornament 
with  a border  of  aspic  jelly,  picked 
prawns,  olives,  or  gherkins,  and  gar- 
nish the  surface  with  small  balls  of 
caviare. 

Spanish  Salad.  — Peel  and  slice 
four  medium-sized  tomatoes  and  seed 
and  shred  fine  one  small  green  pepper. 
Arrange  these  on  lettuce  leaves  in  a 
salad-bowl ; stone  and  slice  a dozen 
olives  and  mix  them  through  the 
salad.  Have  all  ice-cold.  Make  a 
French  dressing,  adding  to  it  a tea- 
spoonful of  minced  chives,  or  a dozen 
drops  of  onion-juice,  and  pour  this 
over  the  salad  about  five  minutes 
before  it  is  to  be  eaten.  Mix  it  well 
with  the  salad  before  serving. 


Spinach  Salad.  — Take  a quart  of 
young,  tender  spinach  leaves,  put  in 
a salad-bowl  with  spring  onions  cut 
up  fine  and  a sprig  of  mint.  Pour 
over  half  a pint  of  plain  salad  dress- 
ing, and  garnish  with  hard-boiled 
eggs. 

Summer  Salad. — Take  cold  boiled 
string -beans,  pease,  beets,  potatoes, 
and  asparagus  - tips.  Slice  the  beets 
and  potatoes.  If  you  have  a spare 
tomato  or  two,  and  a small  cucum- 
ber, peel  and  slice  these  and  add 
them  to  the  cooked  vegetables.  Mix 
them  carefully,  that  you  may  not 
break  the  vegetables.  Arrange  them 
on  lettuce  leaves,  and  serve  with  a 
French  dressing. 

Tomato  Salad. — Like  most  other 
kinds,  it  should  be  dressed  only  just 
before  serving ; and  for  variety,  cu- 
cumbers, Spanish  onions,  or  both, 
may  be  mixed  with  the  tomatoes. 
For  the  dressing,  use  either  the  French 
dressing  or  mayonnaise. 

Turkey  Salad. — Turkey  is  more 
economical  and  better  for  salad  than 
chicken.  To  a turkey  weighing  about 
9 lbs.  allow  nine  eggs  — seven  hard- 
boiled,  and  two  of  them  raw,  yolks  and 
whites  beaten  separately.  To  each 
egg  allow  two  table-spoonfuls  of  salad 
oil,  perfectly  pure  and  sweet,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  the  same  of  mustard, 
and  two  of  cayenne  pepper  to  the 
whole ; celery  to  taste,  lettuce  leaves, 
if  in  season,  using  only  the  heart,  and 
the  juice  of  two  large  lemons  or  three 
smaller  ones. 

T urnip  - top  Salad.  — All  through 
the  South  there  is  no  salad  more 
prized  than  turnip-tops.  The  tender 
young  leaves  are  freshly  gathered 
and  thrown  into  cold  water.  The 
pot  is  put  over  a brisk  fire,  and  in 
twenty  minutes  the  greens  will  be 
boiled.  Take  them  up  in  a vegetable- 
strainer,  place  them  in  a vegetable- 
dish,  add  a small  lump  of  butter,  and 
cover  the  turnip  - tops  with  poached 
eggs.  Sprinkle  these  last  with  pepper. 


332 


Vegetable  Salad 


SALADS 


Salamander 


and  the  dish  has  a very  appetizing  look 
and  is  extremely  wholesome. 

Vegetable  Salad. — Into  two  quarts 
of  boiling  water,  salted  with  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  put  two  carrots, 
two  white  turnips,  two  celery- roots, 
two  beets,  one  pint  of  string-beans, 
one  pint  of  pease,  and  one  small 
cauliflower.  The  vegetables  should 
be  cooked  separately,  and  tender, 
but  not  too  soft.  When  cooked  put 
them  in  cold  water  for  five  minutes, 
peeling  the  celery -roots  and  beets. 
When  perfectly  cold  slice  the  carrots, 
turnips,  celery,  and  beets  in  pieces 
three  inches  long,  and,  in  the  case  of 
the  string-beans,  lengthwise.  Make 
a seasoning  from  a quarter  of  a tea- 
spoonful of  salt,  half  a pinch  of 
pepper,  one  table  - spoonful  of  olive 
oil,  and  half  a table-spoonful  of  wine 
vinegar.  Mix  well  with  a spoon. 
This  quantity  must  be  repeated  for 
each  vegetable  — the  sauce,  when 
finished,  poured  over  its  vegetable, 
and  gently  tossed  in  order  not  to 
break  the  pieces.  Arrange  the  vege- 
tables in  a salad-bowl,  the  cauliflower 
in  the  centre,  hearts  of  lettuce  mark- 
ing the  four  corners.  One  hard- 
boiled  egg,  cut  in  quarters,  length- 
wise, on  top  of  carrots,  beans,  pease, 
and  beets.  This  arrangement  of  the 
salad  affords  the  opportunity  to  each 
guest  to  choose  vegetables  to  taste. 

Another  way  : — The  simplest  thing 
in  a vegetable  salad  is,  of  course, 
lettuce  with  French  dressing,  and 
there  is  nothing  better ; yet  one 
wishes  a change.  Put  asparagus 
on  the  lettuce  and  pour  the  dressing 
over  both,  and  serve  very  cold.  Or, 
put  cold  boiled  cauliflower  on  the 
lettuce,  either  in  one  handsome  head 
or  broken  in  bits,  and  cover  with 
French  dressing  as  before.  String- 
beans  may  also  be  served  in  the 
same  way,  or  tomatoes.  Or,  dress 


any  one  of  these  and  pass  mayon- 
naise with  it  in  addition.  If  one 
wishes  something  more  elaborate, 
there  are  combinations  of  vegetables 
which  are  good,  especially  in  the 
shape  of  tomatoes  and  cucumbers, 
which  seem  made  to  be  used  together. 
They  may,  of  course,  be  sliced  and 
laid  in  a bowl,  either  with  or  without 
ice  underneath. 

Waldorf  Salad. — Take  good-sized 
apples  and  pare  them  carefully,  and 
scoop  out  a good  deal  of  the  inside  to 
make  a cup ; fill  the  cup  with  finely 
chopped  celery  dressed  with  a rich  may- 
onnaise, and  serve  the  filled  apples  on 
lettuce  leaves.  The  salad  would  not 
be  good  made  with  a French  dressing. 

Walnut  Salad. — Crack  the  shells 
of  I lb.  of  English  walnuts  carefully, 
that  the  kernels  may  not  be  crushed. 
Divide  each  kernel  in  half,  removing 
the  bit  of  shell  which  separates  them. 
Boil  for  twenty  minutes,  and  peel 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  chestnuts. 
The  work  will  be  rather  more  tedious 
than  with  the  large,  round  kernel  of 
the  chestnut,  but  if  the  walnuts  are 
fresh  and  firm  it  will  not  be  difficult. 
Serve  these  also  on  lettuce  with  a 
French  dressing.  Butternuts  and 
black  walnuts  may  be  substituted  for 
the  English  walnuts  if  preferred. 

Water-cress  Salad.  — Cleanse  it 
thoroughly  in  salt  and  water,  and 
serve  as  fresh  as  possible.  Place  it 
in  a bowl,  either  alone  or  mixed  with 
other  salad  plants,  and  toss  it  lightly 
in  a simple  salad  sauce. 

Salads,  Fish,  Oyster,  and  Lobster. 

See  Fish. 

Dressings.  See  Salads. 

..  Sandwiches. 

See  Sandwiches. 

..  Veal.  See  Veal. 


Salamander.  — This  is  a utensil  An  old  iron  fire-shovel,  if  heated  thor- 
which  is,  after  being  made  red-hot,  oughly  and  held  over  the  article  to  be 
used  to  brown  anything  wanting  color.  browned,  will  answer  the  same  purpose . 

333 


Sallylunns 


SANDWICHES  Anchovy  Cream-toast 


Sallylunns.  See  Bread. 

Salmis.  — A salmi  is  simply  a su- 
perior ragout  of  game  or  wild  fowl. 
It  differs  from  a hash  in  this,  that  the 
hash  is  made  from  the  remains  of 
dressed  game,  the  salmi  from  game 
which  has  been  half  dressed  for  the 
purpose,  and  served  in  rich  gravy  or 
sauce.  See  Game. 

Salmon. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  salmon  will  he  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Salmon  Buried.  See  Fish. 

..  ..in  Paper 

Frocks. 

..  Croquettes. 

Cutlets  en  Papillotes.  .. 

..  on  Toast. 

..  Patties. 

..  Pie. 

..  Salad. 


Salmon  Salad  with  Jelly.  See  Fish. 

Steak  a la  Flamande.  .. 

Steaks,  Boiled. 

..  Trout. 

Sandwiches.  See  Sandwiches. 

Souffle.  See  Souffles. 

Salpicons  are  any  meat  or  mixt- 
ure of  meats,  mushrooms,  fish,  etc., 
cut  into  dice  and  heated  in  a thick 
white  or  brown  sauce.  They  may  be 
served  in  moulds  or  shells  surround- 
ed with  a force-meat  or  puff  paste. 

Salsify. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  salsify  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Salsif}^,  Baked.  See  Vegetables. 

..  Fried. 

..  Sauce. 

..  Stewed. 

Salt  Fish.  See  Fish. 


SANDWICHES,  CANAPES,  AND  PETITS  PAINS. 


In  making  sandwiches  of  any 
kind  cut  the  bread  as  thin  as  possible. 
It  cannot  be  too  thin.  Pare  away  the 
crust  from  each  slice  and  spread 
lightly  with  good  butter.  Cold  fish, 
meats,  poultry,  vegetables,  jams, 
jellies,  in  fact  almost  any  viands, 
may  be  utilized  in  making  something 
novel  in  the  way  of  the  ever-popular 
sandwich.  When  rolls  are  used  they 
should  be  fresh,  but  the  bread  should 
be  at  least  one  day  old. 

Sandwiches  should  be  very  small 
and  dainty,  scarcely  more  than  a 
mouthful,  and  always  tastefully  ar- 
ranged on  the  dish.  When  sand- 
wiches are  rolled  they  should  be  tied 
with  fancy  ribbons  and  piled  on  the 
plate  in  log-cabin  style ; others  may 
be  cut  into  fancy  shapes  with  cutters, 
such  as  stars,  crescents,  circles,  etc. 

American  Sandwiches.  — Chop  x/z 
lb.  of  ham  very  fine,  together  with 
two  chopped  pickles,  mustard,  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste.  Beat  6 ozs.  of 


butter  to  a cream,  add  the  chopped 
ham,  and  mix  well.  Cut  thin  slices 
of  bread,  spread  with  the  mixture, 
press  together,  cut  ir  diamonds, 
and  garnish  with  parsley. 

Anchovy  Sandwiches. — One  sand- 
wich loaf,  three  anchovies,  4 ozs.  of 
butter,  one  hard-boiled  egg,  season- 
ing, and  a little  nutmeg.  Cut  the 
loaf  very  thin ; bone  the  anchovies, 
and  pound  them  with  the  butter,  egg, 
seasoning,  and  nutmeg ; spread  a 
little  on  each  slice  of  bread,  roll  them, 
dish  in  a pyramid,  and  garnish  with 
parsley. 

Anchovy  Cream  - toast  Sand- 
wiches.— Fry  some  slices  of  bread  in 
boiling  lard,  dry,  and  spread  with 
anchovy  paste;  make  a thick  may- 
onnaise sauce ; add  to  it  some  chop- 
ped capers,  chervil,  queen  olives,  and 
a small  piece  of  shallot.  Spread  on 
the  fried  bread,  form  into  sandwiches, 
and  serve  with  cresses. 


334 


Beef  Sandwiches,  Raw  SAND  W I C H E S 


Egg  and  Cheese 


Beef  Sandwiches,  Raw.  — After 
scraping  the  raw  beef,  season  it  and 
spread  it  between  thin  slices  of  bread. 
Toast  these  sandwiches  until  the 
bread  is  well  toasted.  Then  serve  hot. 

Celery  Sandwiches.  — The  filling 
for  these  sandwiches  may  be  made  in 
two  ways.  One  method  is  to  cut  the 
tender  stalks  of  celery  into  tiny  bits, 
mix  them  with  mayonnaise  dressing, 
and  spread  this  paste  between  slices 
of  thin  bread.  A more  delicious 
filling  is  made  by  mixing  a cupful 
of  the  finely  cut  celery  into  the  chop- 
ped whites  and  pounded  yolks  of 
two  hard-boiled  eggs.  Stir  all  well 
together,  and  moisten  the  mixture 
with  two  table  spoonfuls  of  may- 
onnaise dressing. 

Cheese  Sandwiches.  — Thin  slices 
of  any  cheese  seasoned  with  salt,  pep- 
per, and  mustard,  between  equally 
thin  slices  of  bread. 

Cheese  Sandwiches  are  sometimes 
made  by  laying  a wafer-like  slice  of 
cheese  between  two  thin  slices  of  bread, 
from  which  all  crust  has  been  re- 
moved. Drop  into  deep  boiling  fat, 
and  fry  quickly  to  a golden-brown 
color.  Lay  the  sandwiches  for  a mo- 
ment on  tissue-paper  in  a hot  colan- 
der, then  pile  upon  a folded  napkin 
on  a small  platter. 

Cheese  Sandwiches,  Hot. — May  be 
made  of  Graham  bread  sliced  very 
thin  and  spread  with  a paste  made 
by  rubbing  six  table -spoonfuls  of 
freshly  grated  cheese  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  butter.  Sprinkle  with 
salt,  add  a dash  of  paprika,  press  the 
two  sides  of  the  sandwich  firmly  to- 
gether, and  fry  in  hot  butter.  When 
lightly  browned  they  are  done. 

Chicken  Sandwiches. — To  a cupful 
of  finely  chopped  cold  chicken  allow 
six  large  oysters  and  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  melted  butter.  Cook 
the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor  until 
the  edges  curl ; chop  them,  and  add 
to  the  chicken.  Season  the  mixture 


with  salt  and  white  pepper,  and  add  the 
butter  rubbed  to  a cream.  Spread  be- 
tween thin  slices  of  unbuttered  bread. 

Chicken  Cream  Sandwiches.  — 

Mix  a cupful  of  white  chicken  meat 
and  celery,  chopped  very  fine,  with  a 
cupful  of  milk.  Add  a boiled  onion, 
mashed,  and  thicken  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  corn-starch.  It  must  be 
quite  thick.  When  cooked  and  boil- 
ing, stir  carefully  into  it  the  whites 
of  two  eggs  beaten  very  stiff;  salt  to 
taste.  Place  in  a bain-marie;  do 
not  allow  to  boil.  Stir  in  the  juice 
of  half  a lemon  and  a table-spoonful 
of  butter.  Mould  the  day  before ; 
cut  into  slices  and  place  between  thin 
slices  of  buttered  bread. 

Chicken  and  Ham  Sandwiches. 

— Mince  together  two  cupfuls  of  cold 
roast  or  boiled  chicken  and  one  cup- 
ful of  cold  boiled  ham.  Soften  with 
mayonnaise  dressing  until  the  mixt- 
ure will  spread  readily.  Cut  white 
or  Graham  bread  into  slices — having 
first  buttered  it  lightly  on  the  loaf — 
and  spread  these  with  the  ham  and 
chicken.  Tongue  and  chicken  sand- 
wiches may  be  prepared  in  the  same 
way. 

Chicken  and  Nut  Sandwiches.  — 

Chop  the  white  meat  of  cold  roast 
or  boiled  chicken  very  fine.  To  one 
cupful  of  this  add  a quarter-cupful  of 
blanched  almonds  or  English  wal- 
nuts, also  minced  fine.  Soften  with 
sweet  cream  to  a paste  that  will  spread 
easily.  Season  with  salt  and  paprika, 
and  spread  upon  Graham  or  white 
bread  cut  very  thin. 

Chocolate  Sandwiches. — Stir  over 
the  fire  until  smooth  five  heaping 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  two  of 
cocoa,  and  two  of  boiling  water,  add- 
ing a little  vanilla  if  it  is  liked.  When 
the  mixture  is  cool,  spread  it  between 
thin  slices  of  buttered  bread. 

Egg  and  Cheese  Sandwiches.  — 
Cream  a table-spoonful  of  butter,  and 
mix  with  it  two  table-spoonfuls  of 


335 


Elite  Sandwiches  SANDWICHES  Sardine  Sandwiches 


grated  English  cheese  and  a very- 
little  made  mustard.  Chop  finely 
two  hard-boiled  eggs.  Pepper  and 
salt  them,  and  mix  them  to  a paste 
with  a little  oil  or  creamed  butter. 
On  a thin  slice  of  buttered  bread 
spread  a layer  of  cheese,  then  a layer 
of  egg,  and  cover  with  a second  slice 
of  bread.  For  an  egg  sandwich  omit 
the  cheese,  and  supply  its  place  with 
two  or  three  of  the  tiny  white  heart 
leaves  of  lettuce.  Brown  bread  and 
cress  is  a popular  sandwich  with 
people  who  like  that  pungent  vege- 
table. The  bread  should  be  liberally 
buttered,  and  only  the  water-cress 
leaves  used.  It  is  good  served  with 
raw  oysters. 

Elite  Sandwiches.  — Take  cold 
beef,  boiled  tongue,  ham,  and  cold 
roast  turkey  in  equal  proportions ; 
chop  very  fine  and  stir  well  together 
in  a bowl.  Chop  up  pickled  gherkins 
and  stuffed  olives.  Make  a salad 
dressing  and  pour  over  the  whole; 
mix  well,  and  place  between  thin 
slices  of  buttered  bread. 

Fish  Sandwiches. — The  fish  should 
be  pounded  to  a paste,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  moistened  with  a 
mayonnaise  sauce. 

French  Sandwiches.  — Chop  one 
cupful  of  white  meat  of  a chicken,  three 
olives,  one  gherkin,  and  a table- 
spoonful of  capers ; add  to  this  half  a 
pint  of  mayonnaise  dressing,  thin 
with  a table  - spoonful  of  tarragon 
vinegar.  Spread  on  thin  slices  of 
bread  ; roll  and  tie. 

Jam  Sandwiches.  — Any  kind  of 
jam,  preserve,  marmalade,  or  minced 
fruit  — canned  as  well  as  fresh  — 
spread  between  thin  slices  of  bread. 

Lettuce  and  Cheese  Sandwiches. 

— These  are  made  of  Boston  brown 
bread.  Spread  the  round  slices  thick- 
ly with  fresh  Philadelphia  cream 
cheese,  and  lay  on  this  a crisp  lettuce 
leaf  that  has  just  been  ^dipped  in 
French  dressing.  Press  another  piece 


of  buttered  brown  bread  upon  this, 
and  cut  each  sandwich  in  half,  thus 
making  a semicircular  slice.  Keep 
these  sandwiches  in  the  ice-box  until 
you  are  ready  to  use  them. 

Meat  Sandwiches.  — They  can  be 
made  by  slicing  meat  very  thin,  but 
the  best  way  is  to  mince  it  finely, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
mustard,  using  a little  milk,  cream, 
or  water  to  moisten.  Or  use  a may- 
onnaise sauce  for  this.  Canned  or 
potted  meats  may  be  used. 

Salad  Sandwiches.  — Prepare  the 
bread  in  the  usual  way,  and  have 
ready  some  mustard  and  cress,  water- 
cress, all  well  washed  and  dried ; put 
them  into  a bowl  with  mayonnaise 
sauce,  and  when  ready  for  serving 
spread  the  salad  neatly  between  the 
bread. 

Salmon  Sandwiches.  — One  can 
salmon,  half  a pint  of  mayonnaise 
dressing,  one  table-spoonful  of  capers, 
and  a little  chives.  Chop  the  salmon, 
chives,  and  capers  together  very  fine. 
Mix  well  with  the  dressing,  and  spread 
on  thin  slices  of  bread. 

Another  way  : — Free  cold  or  canned 
salmon  from  all  particles  of  skin  and 
bone,  and  shred  it  finely  with  a silver 
fork.  Salt  to  taste,  add  a squeeze 
of  lemon-juice  and  a dash  of  tomato 
catsup,  and  mix  to  a paste  with  butter. 

Sardine  Sandwiches.  — Take  as 
many  tinned  sardines  as  will  be 
wanted.  Scrape  the  skin  lightly  off 
each  fish,  split  it  open,  cut  off  the 
tail,  and  remove  any  bones  there  may 
be.  Take  thin  slices  of  bread  from 
a stale  loaf,  butter  these,  and  lay  the 
sardines  between  two  of  them.  Cut 
away  the  crust,  and  press  the  slices 
with  the  hand  to  make  them  adhere. 
Cut  them  with  a sharp  knife  into 
long,  narrow  sandwiches,  and  serve 
on  a dish  with  a neatly  folded  nap- 
kin. Garnish  with  parsley. 

Another  way  : — Chop  together  six 
boned  sardines,  two  hard-boiled  eggs, 
five  olives.  Mix  well,  adding  some 


336 


Spanish  Sandwiches  SAN  DWICHES  Caviare  Canapes 


of  the  oil  of  the  sardines,  lemon-juice, 
French  mustard,  and  salt.  Spread 
on  thin  slices  of  bread,  and  roll. 

Spanish  Sandwiches. — Bone  twelve 
oil-preserved  anchovies,  and  cut  into 
strips  about  an  inch  long.  Make 
into  a paste  with  I oz.  of  capers  and 
a sprig  of  parsley ; add  a dash  of 
paprika,  half  a teaspoonful  of  mixed 
mustard,  one  table-spoonful  of  tar- 
ragon vinegar,  one  table-spoonful  of 
oil,  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs, 
and  salt.  Mix  smooth ; chop  the 
whites  of  the  eggs.  Butter  thin 
slices  of  bread,  and  spread  with  the 
paste  ; sprinkle  over  them  the  chopped 
whites.  Trim,  and  tie  with  narrow 
ribbons. 

Tartare  Sandwiches.  — To  six  ta- 
ble-spoonfuls of  chopped  hard-boiled 
eggs  allow  a teaspoonful  of  chopped 
capers  and  a table-spoonful  of  chopped 
cucumber  pickle.  Mix  to  a smooth 
paste  with  mayonnaise  dressing. 
For  savory  sandwiches  lettuce,  cu- 
cumber, and  tomato  are  much  nicer  in 
the  spring  of  the  year  than  anchovy 
and  caviare,  which  make  the  additions 
to  the  winter  tea-table.  A nasturtium 
leaf,  sprinkled  with  a little  salt,  and 
set  between  two  thin,  circular  pieces  of 
bread  - and  - butter,  makes  a simple, 
pungent  - flavored  sandwich.  All  sa- 
vory sandwiches  are  prettier  made 
with  circular  pieces  of  bread  cut  with  a 
round  cutter,  not  exceeding  the  size 
familiar  in  the  rotund  “ Maryland 
biscuit  ” ; and  all  savory  sandwiches 
should  have  their  succulent  quality 
designated  by  a sprig  of  parsley  laid 
upon  the  top  when  ready  to  be  served. 

Veal  Sandwiches. — To  one  cupful 
of  chopped  veal  and  one  hard-boiled 
egg  add  2 ozs.  of  butter,  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  catsup,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Mix  well  and  spread  on 
thin  slices  of  bread. 

Canapes.  — Take  slices  of  bread 
about  half  an  inch  thick,  remove  the 
crust,  and  stamp  them  out  in  rounds, 
ovals,  or  diamonds,  then  fry  them  in 

22 


boiling  oit  or  butter  till  they  are  light- 
ly browned.  These  form  the  foun- 
dation of  the  canapes.  They  may 
be  seasoned  and  garnished  with 
anchovy,  shrimp,  or  lobster  paste, 
toasted  cheese,  hard-boiled  eggs,  cu- 
cumbers, beet -root,  parsley,  salad, 
cresses,  celery,  gherkins,  prawns, 
crayfish,  or  salmon.  A combination 
of  two  or  three  things  gives  them 
a handsomer  appearance.  They 
should  be  served  on  a napkin  and 
garnished  with  parsley,  etc.  Time 
to  fry,  ten  minutes. 

Anchovy  Canapes. — From  a square 
loaf  baked  the  day  before  cut  slices 
and  remove  the  crust.  Mix  a half- 
teaspoonful of  good  butter,  a half- 
teaspoonful of  chopped  water- cress, 
a half-teaspoonful  of  chopped  gher- 
kins, half  a yolk  of  hard-boiled  egg. 
Spread  this  over  two  of  the  prepared 
slices.  Cut  in  small  fillets  one  nice 
anchovy,  put  the  fillets  between  the 
two  slices.  This  quantity  is  for  one 
canape.  Arrange  the  canapes  on  a 
fancy  napkin  on  a plate. 

Asparagus  Canapes. — Scrape  and 
wash  well  a fresh  bunch  of  aspara- 
gus ; separate  the  stalks,  tying  them 
in  small  bunches,  and  boil  eighteen 
minutes  in  boiling  water,  to  which  one- 
half  table  - spoonful  of  salt  has  been 
added.  When  done  remove  at  once, 
as  they  quickly  become  water-soaked 
and  lose  their  flavor.  Drain  in  a warm 
towel,  and  cut  in  lengths  of  four  inches 
long.  Serve  on  canapes  made  of  dry 
bread  with  mayonnaise  sauce. 

Bismarck,  Canapes  a la.  — Saute 
small  slices  or  disks  of  bread  in  butter 
till  they  are  a light  brown;  spread 
over  each  when  cold  a thin  layer  of 
anchovy  butter;  curl  round  on  each 
an  anchovy  washed,  boned,  and 
trimmed ; sprinkle  very  finely  shred 
olives  over  them.  Anchovy  butter 
is  two  parts  butter  and  one  of  an- 
chovy paste. 

Caviare  Canapes. — Slices  of  bread 
a quarter  of  an  inch  thick  cut  into 


337 


Celery  Canapes 


SANDWICHES 


Sardine  Canapes 


round  disks ; fry  them  pale  brown  in 
butter.  Chop  a large  handful  of 
washed  and  dried  (in  a cloth)  water- 
cress leaves  very  fine ; when  they 
are  almost  as  fine  as  pulp,  mix  with 
them  an  equal  amount  of  butter; 
when  well  blended,  spread  each  ca- 
nape with  it,  and  spread  a layer  of 
caviare  on  the  top. 

Another  way  : — Put  into  a small 
saucepan  half  of  a small  can  of  Rus- 
sian caviare,  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  thick  cream ; place  over  the  fire, 
and  stir  carefully  for  two  minutes. 
Butter  each  slice  slightly,  spread  the 
hot  caviare  over,  and  sprinkle  over 
the  caviare  the  yolk  of  a hard-boiled 
egg  chopped  very  fine.  Serve  in  a 
flat  crystal  dish  garnished  with  water- 
cress. 

Celery  Canapes.  — Cut  off  the 

leaves  and  pare  nicely  one  bunch  of 
white  celery ; wash  carefully  each 
stalk,  and  put  them  in  plenty  of 
salted  boiling  water.  Cook  fifteen 
minutes,  drain,  and  put  in  cold  water, 
and  then  drain  them  well  again. 
Place  the  celery  stalks  in  a sautoir, 
with  one  pint  of  consomme  or  of  very 
good  stock  and  one  gill  of  Madeira 
wine,  and  cook  slowly,  with  covered 
saucepan,  for  twenty  minutes.  Ar- 
range the  celery  on-  a hot  platter  and 
keep  it  warm  in  the  oven  while  you 
finish  the  sauce.  Mix  half  a table- 
spoonful of  butter  with  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  flour,  add  to  the  hot  sauce,  but 
do  not  boil,  and  pour  over  the  celery. 

Egg  Canap£s. — Peel,  wash,  and  dry 
the  stems  of  six  large,  fleshy  mush- 
rooms, and  chop  them  very  fine.  Put 
the  mushrooms  aside  for  the  present. 
Put  in  a small  saucepan  half  a table- 
spoonful of  butter  ; when  melted  add 
one  teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  shal- 
lots or  green  onions,  cook  slowly  for 
three  minutes  ; do  not  brown ; add  the 
chopped  mushroom-stems,  cook  three 
minutes  more,  stir  well ; add  one 
table  - spoonful  of  parsley  chopped 
fine,  cook  two  minutes  more,  season 
with  half  a salt-spoonful  of  salt,  half 
a one  of  pepper,  remove  from  the  fire. 


add  half  a table-spoonful  of  very  fresh 
butter,  and  mix  well.  Put  these  fine 
herbs  in  a bowl  and  break  over  them 
six  fresh  eggs  ; add  one  salt-spoonful 
of  salt,  half  a one  of  pepper,  and  beat 
slightly  for  one  minute  only. 

Put  in  a small  saucepan  half  a 
table  - spoonful  of  butter  and  the 
beaten  eggs.  Cook  over  a slow  fire, 
stirring  constantly  with  a wooden 
spoon  for  about  four  minutes ; the 
eggs  must  become  quite  stiff.  Re- 
move from  the  fire,  add  half  a table- 
spoonful of  very  fresh  butter  divided 
in  small  pieces  to  make  it  melt  faster, 
as  it  must  not  cook.  Mix  well. 

Have  the  mushrooms  prepared  to 
receive  the  scrambled  eggs,  as  they 
must  not  wait.  Peel,  wash,  and  dry 
them ; put  in  a plate  three  table- 
spoonfuls of  olive  oil  or  melted  butter, 
season  with  one  salt-spoonful  of  salt 
and  half  a one  of  pepper.  Roll  the 
mushrooms  in  this.  Broil  them  four 
minutes  on  each  side  over  a moderate 
fire.  Arrange  the  largest  ones  on  very 
thin  slices  of  warm  bread,  not  toasted. 
Serve  the  eggs  on  these,  and  cover 
each  with  the  smaller  mushrooms. 
Serve  at  once,  very  hot. 

Fruit  Canapes. — Fry  split  sponge- 
cakes in  butter  till  golden  brown  on 
both  sides.  Spread  slices  of  fruit  on 
each  piece.  Make  a thick  sauce  of 
the  juice  of  the  fruit  by  stirring  in  a 
little  arrow-root  when  the  sauce  has 
been  heated,  then  add  the  sauce  to 
the  bread.  Any  fruit  or  berries  can 
be  used. 

Ham  Canapes. — Prepare  the  bread 
as  usual.  Pound  the  ham  to  a paste 
with  a little  cream  or  milk.  Season 
to  taste.  A little  Parmesan  cheese  can 
be  sprinkled  over  each  canap£. 

Sardine  Canapes. — Cut  bread  into 
strips  a little  longer  and  wider  than  a 
sardine,  and  fry  to  a golden  brown 
in  a little  butter  or  good  dripping. 
Take  a sardine  for  each  strip,  divide 
it  lengthwise,  and  lay  half  of  each  to 
one  side.  Rub  the  other  halves  fine 
with  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled 

338 


Shrimp  Canapes 


SAUCES 


Sauces  for  Meats,  etc. 


eggs,  a table  - spoonful  of  butter,  a 
teaspoonful  of  sharp  pickle  minced 
very  fine,  a pinch  of  mustard,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and 
the  juice  of  half  a lemon.  Spread 
the  fried  bread  with  this  mixture, 
lay  half  a sardine  on  top  of  each,  put 
in  the  oven  covered,  and  serve  when 
thoroughly  hot. 

Shrimp  Canapes. — Fry  some  slices 
of  bread,  cut  into  disks,  pound  equal 
quantities  of  fresh  butter  and  shrimps, 
from  which  heads,  tails,  and  shells 
have  been  removed,  till  they  form  a 
smooth  mass ; spread  the  fried  bread 
with  it.  Place  whole  shrimps  on  the 
top  in  the  shape  of  a rosette,  in  the 
centre  of  which  put  a tiny  pinch  of 
chopped  parsley. 

Petits  Pains  Farcis.  — Procure 
some  small  fresh  rolls,  long  in  shape  ; 
cut  them  in  two,  lengthwise.  Scoop 


out  most  of  the  soft  part.  Mix  well 
one  teaspoonful  of  butter,  one  des- 
sert-spoonful of  potted  ham,  half  a 
hard-boiled  egg  chopped  fine,  one  rad- 
ish sliced  very  thin.  Add  two  leaves 
of  white  lettuce  cut  in  small  pieces ; 
spread  this  garnishing  on  both  sides 
of  the  rolls  and  close  them.  Serve  on 
a napkin.  The  above  quantity  is  for 
one  roll  only.  These  rolls  are  often 
served  at  garden-parties,  as  they  keep 
tender  and  are  very  appetizing. 

Petits  Pains  Friands.  — Split  a 
half-dozen  small,  oblong  milk-rolls  al- 
most half  through,  keeping  the  two 
parts  together.  Remove  part  of  the 
inside,  and  fill  with  a very  stiff  may- 
onnaise, to  which  have  been  added 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  white,  tender 
celery,  chopped,  and  the  same  quan- 
tity of  smoked  tongue  and  olives. 
Close  each  roll  and  put  in  a folded 
napkin  on  each  plate. 


Sandwiches  of  Fish. 

See  Fish  ; also  Sandwiches. 

Sangaree,  Frozen.  See  Beverages. 

Sardines. ; — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  sardines  will  be  found 


under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Sardines,  Fried.  See  Fish. 

Salad. 

..  with  Curry. 

..  Canapes.  See  Sandwiches. 

..  Sandwiches. 


SAUCES 


Sweet  Sauces  for  Puddings  will  be 
found  under  Puddings. 

Sauces  for  Meats,  etc.  — The  skill 
and  knowledge  of  a cook  is  shown 
in  nothing  more  assuredly  than  in 
the  making  and  choosing  of  sauces. 
M.  Soyer  used  to  say  that  sauces  are 
to  cookery  what  grammar  is  to  lan- 
guage and  the  gamut  is  to  music. 
A sauce  ought  certainly  to  serve 
either  as  a relish  or  a finish  to  the 
meat  which  it  accompanies ; it  ought, 
too,  to  be  carefully  made  and  at- 
tractively sent  to  table.  With  regard 


to  sauces  in  general,  it  should  be 
remembered  that  hot  sauces  should 
be  served  very  hot ; that  when  sauces 
need  to  be  kept  hot  they  should  not 
be  kept  boiling,  but  should  be  put 
into  a vessel  containing  boiling  water  ; 
that  eggs  and  acids  should  not  be 
added  to  sauce  until  it  has  cooled 
for  two  minutes,  and,  after  they  have 
been  added,  the  sauce  should  be 
stirred  without  ceasing,  and  should 
not  be  allowed  to  boil ; that  cream 
should  be  boiled  before  it  is  mixed 
with  boiling  sauce,  and  that  the 
sauce  should  be  stirred  well  after  it 


339 


Allemand  Sauce 


SAUCES 


Bdarnaise  Sauce 


is  put  in.  An  enamelled  saucepan 
is  the  best  in  which  to  make  sauce. 

Plain  sauces  should  only  taste  of 
the  materials  from  which  they  take 
their  name.  The  imagination  of 
many  cooks  is  so  incessantly  on  the 
hunt  for  a relish  that  they  frequently 
overpower  the  natural  flavor  of  plain 
sauces  by  overloading  them  with 
salt  and  spices,  etc.  On  the  contrary, 
in  compound  sauces  the  ingredients 
should  be  so  nicely  proportioned  that 
no  one  will  be  predominant;  so  that, 
from  the  equal  union  of  the  combined 
flavors,  such  a fine,  mellow  mixture 
may  be  produced  whose  very  novelty 
cannot  fail  of  being  acceptable  to  the 
diner. 

Roux  is  used  to  thicken  sauces, 
soups,  etc.  To  make  it,  put  I oz.  of 
butter  into  a saucepan  over  a slow 
fire,  and  when  it  is  dissolved  add 
1/4  ozs.  of  dried  flour.  Stir  with  a 
wooden  spoon  until  it  has  acquired 
a light-brown  color;  this  will  take 
about  ten  minutes.  Remove  from 
the  fire  for  two  minutes  to  cool, 
add  a pint  and  a half  of  stock, 
stir  this  till  it  boils  up,  then  draw 
the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire, 
and  let  the  sauce  simmer  till  it  is 
smooth  and  of  a proper  consist- 
ency. 

If  white  roux  is  wanted,  proceed  as 
above,  but  be  careful  to  remove  the 
paste  from  the  fire  before  it  has  ac- 
quired any  color.  White  roux  is  used 
for  white  sauces. 

Allemand  Sauce.  — Put  into  a 
saucepan  one  pint  of  white  stock, 
with  a little  salt,  six  mushrooms,  a 
thin  strip  of  lemon-peel,  and  a little 
parsley.  Let  it  boil,  then  draw  it  to 
the  side  of  the  fire,  and  allow  it  to 
simmer  slowly  for  half  an  hour  or 
more.  Thicken  it  with  a little  flour, 
let  it  boil  for  a few  minutes,  and  strain. 
Add  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
and  replace  it  on  the  fire.  Stir  it 
constantly,  and  make  it  thoroughly 
hot ; but  it  must  not  boil  up  again 
or  the  sauce  will  be  spoiled.  When 
off  the  fire,  stir  a little  butter  into  it, 
and  the  juice  of  half  a lemon. 


Anchovy  Sauce  for  Beef.  — Wash 
four  anchovies,  dry  them  well,  re- 
move the  bones,  and  cut  the  flesh  into 
small  pieces.  Sift  some  flour  over 
these,  and  fry  them  in  butter  over  a 
gentle  fire  for  five  or  six  minutes. 
Pour  half  a pint  of  broth  over  them, 
add  salt  and  pepper  if  required,  and 
an  inch  of  cucumber  cut  into  dice. 
Simmer  the  sauce,  and  before  send- 
ing to  table  stir  into  it  a teaspoonful 
of  bruised  capers.  Time  to  simmer, 
twenty  minutes. 

Apple  Sauce. — Pare,  core,  and  slice 
a dozen  apples ; place  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  just  enough  water 
to  keep  them  from  burning.  Let 
them  simmer,  stirring  frequently,  un- 
til they  are  reduced  to  pulp.  Turn 
them  into  a bowl,  and  beat  them  well 
with  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  the 
juice  of  a lemon,  and  a small  piece 
of  butter.  Time,  half  an  hour  to 
simmer. 

Asparagus  Sauce.  — Cut  the  green 
ends  from  twenty-five  stalks  of  as- 
paragus, and  boil  them  in  salt  and 
water  until  they  are  tender.  Drain 
well,  make  a little  melted  butter,  using 
stock  instead  of  water,  putting  with  it 
a lump  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  a 
lemon.  Fry  the  asparagus  points  in 
a little  boiling  butter,  press  them 
through  a sieve,  add  them  to  the 
melted  butter,  and  let  all  boil  up  to- 
gether. A few  leaves  of  young  spin- 
ach mixed  in  a mortar  with  pounded 
sugar  will  improve  the  color.  Time 
to  boil  the  asparagus,  ten  minutes. 
To  fry  it,  six  or  seven. 

Bearnaise  Sauce.  — Five  yolks  of 
eggs,  i oz.  of  butter,  a pinch  of  salt ; 
stir  on  a slow  fire.  When  the  eggs 
begin  to  thicken,  take  away  from  the 
fire  and  add  another  ounce  of  butter. 
Let  it  warm  again,  and  again  add 
I oz.  of  butter,  some  chopped  parsley 
and  fine  herbs,  and  a teaspoonful  of 
vinegar. 

Bearnaise  Sauce  (Mile.  Fran- 
£oise’s). — Put  in  a stewpan  a dozen 


340 


BSarnaise  Sauce 


SAUCES 


Brown  Sauce 


shallots,  a seasoning  bouquet,  a little 
muscade,  and  a teaspoonful  of  freshly 
ground  pepper,  the  whole  moistened 
with  a glassful  of  vinegar.  Boil 
down,  and  then  strain  through  a 
sieve.  Now  take  a small  saucepan, 
and  put  in  it  a big  lump  of  butter 
of  the  best  quality,  three  yolks  of 
very  fresh  eggs ; add  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  the  liquid  already  pre- 
pared as  above,  and  put  the  whole 
over  a very  gentle  fire ; turn  it  briskly 
with  a wooden  spoon,  until  the  sauce 
gets  thick,  and  take  it  off  the  fire 
very  sharply,  before  it  turns  oily. 

B6arnaise  Sauce  (Gouffe’s). — Five 
yolks  of  eggs,  I oz.  of  butter,  a pinch 
of  salt,  a pinch  of  pepper.  Put  the 
above  in  a pan,  and  turn  it  over  the 
fire  with  a spoon.  As  soon  as  the 
yolks  begin  to  set,  take  off  the  fire, 
and  add  another  ounce  of  butter. 
Then  stir  again  over  the  fire,  and 
add  another  ounce  of  butter.  Take 
off  the  fire,  and  add  yet  another 
ounce.  Then  stir  again  over  the 
fire.  Now  taste  to  see  if  the  season- 
ing is  sufficient,  and  add  a teaspoon- 
ful of  chopped  tarragon  and  a tea- 
spoonful of  tarragon  vinegar.  The 
finest  and  purest  Bearnaise  has  a 
dominant  perfume  of  tarragon. 

Bechamel  Sauce. — May  be  made 
of  the  remains  of  a cold  roast  fowl. 
Break  up  the  bones,  and  put  them 
into  a saucepan  with  two  or  three 
bacon-bones,  a small  carrot,  a small 
onion,  a very  small  piece  of  mace, 
two  peppercorns,  and  a pinch  of  salt. 
Pour  over  the  ingredients  as  much 
water  as  will  entirely  cover  them, 
and  simmer  gently  for  two  hours. 
Carefully  remove  the  scum  as  it  rises. 
Half  an  hour  before  the  stock  is  taken 
from  the  fire,  stir  into  it  a teaspoonful 
of  gelatine  which  has  been  soaked 
for  half  an  hour  in  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  water.  Strain  the  stock  into  a 
bowl,  and  when  it  is  cold  remove  the 
fat  from  the  surface.  Put  it  into  a 
saucepan,  and  simmer  till  it  is  re- 
duced to  about  three  - quarters  of  a 
pint.  Mix  with  it  an  equal  quantity 


of  boiling  cream  or  milk,  slightly 
thicken  with  arrow-root,  add  salt  to 
taste,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 
Time,  three  to  four  hours. 

Another  way  : — Take  one  quart  of 
good  white  stock,  put  it  into  a stew- 
pan  with  an  onion,  a few  mushrooms, 
a sprig  of  thyme,  parsley,  a blade  of 
mace,  and  a little  salt ; boil  till  it 
has  extracted  the  flavor  of  the  herbs, 
and  the  stock  is  reduced  to  about 
half ; then  strain.  Put  one  pint  of 
thick  or  double  cream  into  a stew- 
pan,  mix  the  reduced  stock  very 
gradually  with  it,  and  stir  all  the 
time,  until  it  thickens,  over  a slow 
fire.  If  the  ordinary  thin  cream  be 
used,  mix  a table-spoonful  of  arrow- 
root  very  smoothly  into  it,  and  simmer 
slowly  five  minutes  before  adding  it 
to  the  stock.  Time,  about  two  hours. 

Bread  Sauce. — Boil  a small  onion 
and  a bay-leaf  in  a cupful  of  milk 
for  fifteen  minutes,  and  then  strain 
them  out.  Stir  into  the  milk  three 
table  - spoonfuls  of  fine  white  bread- 
crumbs, cook  three  minutes,  add  one 
table  - spoonful  of  butter,  salt  and 
white  pepper  to  taste,  and  a grate  of  a 
nutmeg,  and  take  from  the  fire.  Put 
in  a sauce-boat  and  strew  over  the 
top  of  the  sauce  a table-spoonful  of 
crumbs  fried  brown. 

Brown  Sauce,  — Put  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  butter  into  a saucepan 
at  the  back  of  the  fire  and  add  a 
sliced  onion,  one  small  carrot,  half 
a turnip  chopped  fine,  and  one  bay- 
leaf.  Cover  the  pan  and  let  the  con- 
tents steam  for  fifteen  minutes.  Then 
bring  the  pan  over  the  fire ; stir 
in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  and 
keep  stirring  until  the  flour  is  well 
browned.  Then  gradually  add  two 
ciipfuls  of  stock,  three  cloves,  a blade 
of  mace,  half  a dozen  peppercorns, 
and  some  salt.  Cover  the  pan  and 
simmer  twenty  minutes ; then  strain, 
and  the  sauce  is  ready  for  serving. 
This  sauce  may  be  varied  by  add- 
ing wine,  lemon-juice,  or  mushrooms, 
thus  making  different  sauces  with  the 
same  foundation. 


341 


Butter  Sauce 


SAUCES 


East  India  Sauce 


Butter  Sauce  (Brown  or  Beurre 
Noir). — Melt  6 ozs.  of  butter  in  a 
stewpan  over  the  fire  until  it  becomes 
of  a brown  color,  and  then  allow  it 
to  become  cold.  Take  another  stew- 
pan,  and  put  into  it  a cupful  of  vine- 
gar with  pepper,  which  reduce  one- 
third  by  boiling.  When  the  butter 
is  cold,  add  it  to  the  vinegar  and 
pepper,  stir  all  up  well,  and  warm  it 
over  the  fire,  care  being  taken  that 
it  is  not  allowed  to  boil.  If  the  butter 
is  not  cool  before  adding  it  to  the 
vinegar  it  will  spurt  over  the  sides 
of  the  vessel. 

Caper  Sauce. — Blend  2 ozs.  of  butter 
with  one  table-spoonful  of  flour,  and 
stir  it  into  a saucepan  containing  the 
third  part  of  a pint  of  boiling  water; 
add  equal  quantities  of  shrimps  and 
capers,  pounded,  about  two  dessert- 
spoonfuls of  each,  and  boil  for  some 
minutes;  remove  the  saucepan  from 
the  fire  and  stir  in  an  ounce  more  of 
butter  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  whole 
capers. 

Celery  Sauce. — Cut  the  white  part 
of  two  heads  of  celery  into  pieces  about 
one  inch  and  a half  long.  Put  2 ozs. 
of  butter  into  a .saucepan,  and  when 
it  is  melted  throw  in  the  celerj^,  coyer 
closely,  and  stew  gently  till  it  is  quite 
tender.  Mix  in  very  smoothly  a large 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  and  when  it 
has  browned  a little  add  a breakfast- 
cupful  of  good  gravy,  salt,  and  a little 
nutmeg.  Rub  through  a sieve,  heat, 
and  serve.  Sufficient  for  one  small 
fowl. 

Celery  Sauce  (a  quick  way).  — 
If  celery  sauce  is  wanted  in  a hurry, 
some  good  melted  butter  may  be 
flavored  with  a few  drops  of  the  es- 
sence of  celery,  and  a little  cream  or 
new  milk  and  a pinch  of  powdered 
mace  may  be  added.  Time,  ten 
minutes.  Sufficient,  five  drops  on  a 
piece  of  sugar  to  a pint. 

Cranberry  Sauce.  — Pick  the  ber- 
ries, and  put  them  in  a kettle  with 
just  water  enough  to  prevent  burn- 


ing, and  stew  until  reduced  to  pulp, 
stirring  all  the  time,  and  then  add  the 
clarified  syrup,  previously  prepared, 
and  stir  a few  minutes  while  boiling. 
The  syrup  is  made  by  allowing  a 
quart  of  water  to  3 lbs.  of  sugar,  and 
the  whipped  whites  of  two  or  three 
eggs,  all  boiled  and  strained.  Allow 
equal  weights  of  fruit  and  sugar. 

Cucumber  Sauce.  — Peel  the  cucum- 
bers, cut  them  up  into  small  dice,  and 
sprinkle  them  well  with  salt.  Let 
them  remain  thus  one  night,  and  in 
the  morning  put  them  into  a colander 
to  drain.  Put  the  cucumbers  thus 
prepared  in  a stone  jar.  To  every 
quart  allow  one  teacupful  of  white 
mustard-seed  and  a pod  of  fresh  red 
pepper,  or  half  a teaspoonful  of  cay- 
enne pepper.  Then  cover  the  cu- 
cumbers with  strong  vinegar,  and 
stop  it  up  closely.  The  jar  should 
not  be  entirely  full,  as  it  will  swell  a 
good  deal.  When  the  sauce  is  well 
matured,  which  will  be  in  a few  weeks, 
it  should  be  transferred  into  small, 
air-tight  glass  jars,  about  the  size 
that  is  required  to  put  on  the  table  for 
use  at  one  time.  The  addition  of  a 
few  tiny  tabasco  peppers  makes  an 
attractive  addition  to  this  sauce. 

Curry  Sauce  (for  chicken  or  boiled 
rice). — Blend  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter  in  a saucepan  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  flour,  a scant  table- 
spoonful of  curry  powder,  and  a tea- 
spoonful of  onion-juice.  Let  these 
cook  a few  moments,  but  do  not  allow 
them  to  brown.  Gradually  stir  in 
one  cup  of  milk,  and  again  cook  them 
for  a few  moments  before  putting  in 
one  cup  of  cream.  Season  with  salt, 
and  just  before  serving  add  a hard- 
boiled  egg  chopped  fine. 

East  India  Sauce.  — One  quart 
very  ripe  currant  - juice,  one  quart 
red  raspberry  - juice,  1 lb.  sultana 
raisins,  seeded  and  halved,  juice  and 
grated  rind  of  three  oranges;  cook 
the  juices  for  twenty  minutes,  count- 
ing from  time  it  commences  to  boil ; 
then  add  5 lbs.  of  sugar  and  boil  for 


342 


Egg  Sauce 


SAUCES 


Horseradish  Sauce 


five  minutes;  then  add  the  raisins 
and  rind ; pour  into  tumblers,  and, 
when  cold,  seal  securely.  Serve  with 
roast  meats. 

Egg  Sauce. — Blend  2 ozs.  of  butter 
with  a dessert-spoonful  of  flour ; put 
the  mixture  into  a small  saucepan 
with  a wineglassful  of  water,  or,  if 
the  sauce  be  intended  for  salt  fish,  of 
the  liquor  in  w'hich  the  fish  was  boiled ; 
see  that  it  is  not  too  salt,  a fault  which 
a little  milk  or  water  will  remedy. 
Simmer,  but  do  not  boil.  When  ready 
to  boil,  draw  the  saucepan  from  the 
fire,  and  stir  in  2 ozs.  more  of  butter 
and  two  or  three  hard-boiled  eggs  cut 
small.  Time,  one  minute  to  simmer. 

Espagnole  Sauce  (for  chops,  cut- 
lets, etc.,  and  also  for  seasoning  other 
sauces).  — Butter  a stewpan,  and 
lay  in  the  bottom  of  it  a couple  of 
slices  of  lean  ham  and  I lb.  of  lean 
beef  or  veal,  or  lb.  of  each  cut  into 
small  pieces.  Pour  upon  the  meat 
as  much  stock  or  water  as  will  barely 
cover  its  surface,  and  boil  it  until  it 
becomes  thick  like  gum.  Check  the 
heat  of  the  fire  a little,  and  simmer 
the  preparation  until  it  is  brightly 
colored,  taking  care  that  it  does  not 
burn.  Add  gradually  a pint  of  stock 
or  water,  and  put  into  the  saucepan 
with  the  liquor  a sliced  carrot,  a bunch 
of  parsley,  a sprig  of  thyme,  half  a 
bay-leaf,  an  onion  stuck  with  two 
cloves,  two  shallots,  a quarter  of  a 
blade  of  mace,  and  four  or  five  pepper- 
corns. Simmer  the  sauce  for  about 
an  hour,  or  till  it  is  strong  and  agree- 
ably flavored,  strain  it,  and  let  it 
stand  till  cold.  When  wanted,  re- 
move the  cake  of  fat  from  the  top, 
heat  the  sauce,  thicken  with  a spoon- 
ful of  brown  thickening,  and  simmer 
till  it  is  of  the  consistency  of  cream. 
Remove  the  fat  as  it  is  thrown  up, 
add  a glassful  of  sherry  or  Madeira, 
and  serve.  Time,  altogether,  an  hour 
and  a half. 

Giblet  Sauce.  — Boil  giblets  until 
tender  (with  or  without  the  liver). 
Put  a little  flour  in  the  pan  in  which 


the  poultry  was  roasted,  stirring 
until  brown,  add  salt  and  pepper, 
strain,  and  add  the  giblets  minced 
together  with  a cupful  of  the  water 
in  which  the  giblets  were  boiled. 
Serve  in  a boat. 

Glaze  is  made  from  clear  stock 
boiled  down  until  it  is  a stiff  jelly. 
If  kept  dry  in  a glass  jar  it  will  keep 
some  time.  It  is  used  to  improve 
the  appearance  of  many  dishes. 

Gooseberry  Sauce  (to  serve  with 
roast  meats). — Measure  the  fruit,  and 
have  two-thirds  of  a bowl  of  sugar 
for  every  bowl  of  fruit ; put  in  a porce- 
lain-lined kettle  and  pour  over  them 
a cup  of  cold  water;  put  over  the  fire 
and  allow  them  to  cook  very  slowly 
until  every  berry  is  soft.  This  sauce 
will  make  delicious  pies.  In  making 
with  a lower  crust  only,  cover  the  top 
when  baked  with  a meringue. 

Hollandaise  Sauce. — Put  half  a 
cupful  of  butter  in  a bowl  and  rub  it 
to  a cream  Add  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  putting  them  in  one  at  a time 
and  mixing  each  well  in  before  add- 
ing the  next.  Season  with  the  juice 
of  half  a lemon,  a little  onion-juice, 
half  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a dash 
of  cayenne  pepper.  Slowly  add  one 
cupful  of  hot  water.  Place  the  bowl  on 
the  fire  in  a pan  of  boiling  water  and 
beat  the  liquid  sauce  until  it  becomes 
of  the  consistence  of  thick  cream. 
Do  not  let  it  boil,  and  beat  it  for  a few 
moments  after  it  is  taken  from  the 
fire  and  before  it  is  served.  This 
sauce  is  used  with  boiled  vegetables 
as  well  as  with  meats  and  fish. 

Horseradish  Sauce.  — Grate  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  horseradish,  put 
it  into  a stewpan  with  half  a pint  of 
good  brown  gravy,  and  let  it  stand 
by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  quite  hot. 
Add  a teaspoonful  of  mixed  mustard, 
a clove  of  garlic  pounded  with  a lit- 
tle butter,  and  a dessert-spoonful  of 
vinegar.  Just  before  serving  stir  in 
three  table  - spoonfuls  of  whipped 
cream.  If  it  is  wished  to  have  the 


343 


India  Sauce 


SAUCES 


Mayonnaise  Sauce 


sauce  very  mild,  use  equal  parts  of 
bread-crumbs  and  the  scraped  root. 
Serve  in  a boat.  Time,  twenty  min- 
utes. Water  may  be  used  instead  of 
the  gravy. 

India  Sauce  (for  fish). — Make  half 
a pint  of  white  sauce,  add  a table- 
spoonful of  curry  powder  and  some 
pickles,  chopped  small,  with  a little 
of  the  vinegar. 

Lemon  Sauce. — Put  the  thin  rind 
of  lemon  and  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  fine  white  sugar  into  a saucepan 
with  half  a pint  of  milk.  Let  these 
simmer  gently  for  ten  minutes,  then 
add  the  juice  of  the  lemon  and  i 
oz.  of  butter  rolled  in  flour.  Stir  un- 
til the  butter  is  entirely  dissolved; 
then  strain  and  serve. 

Lobster  Sauce.  — Take  the  coral 
from  the  back  and  neck  of  a freshly 
boiled  hen  lobster.  Put  it  in  a mor- 
tar and  pound  it  thoroughly  with 
double  the  quantity  of  fresh  butter  and 
a little  cayenne,  and  press  it  through 
a hair-sieve.  This  is  lobster  butter. 
It  ought  to  be  of  a bright  red  color. 
Pick  out  the  white  meat  and  tear  it 
into  flakes.  A small  quantity  only 
will  be  required  for  the  sauce,  the 
rest  may  therefore  be  served  up  some 
other  way.  Mix  2 ozs.  of  fresh  butter 
with  I oz.  of  flour.  Strain  the  half- 
pint of  water  or  gravy  upon  it,  and 
stir  all  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture 
thickens,  but  it  must  not  boil.  Stir 
into  the  sauce  as  much  lobster  butter 
as  will  color  it  brightly;  add  about  a 
table-spoonful  of  the  white  meat,  and, 
if  liked,  the  juice  of  half  a small  lemon. 
Let  it  remain  on  the  fire  until  the 
meat  is  quite  hot.  However,  if  it  be 
allowed  to  boil  the  color  will  be  spoiled. 
A table  - spoonful  of  cream  is  some- 
times added.  Time,  two  or  three  min- 
utes to  heat  the  sauce. 

Maitre  d’Hotel  Sauce.— Melt  2 ozs. 
of  fresh  butter  in  a small  enamelled 
saucepan  and  stir  to  it,  by  degrees, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  flour;  continue 
stirring  for  five  or  ten  minutes,  until 


the  butter  and  flour  are  well  blended, 
when  add,  also  by  degrees,  a quarter 
of  a pint  of  boiling  cream  and  a quar- 
ter of  a pint  of  good  veal  stock,  also 
boiling,  and  stir  well,  allowing  the 
sauce  to  simmer  a minute  or  two  be- 
tween each  addition.  When  perfectly 
smooth,  put  in  the  strained  juice  of  a 
lemon,  or,  if  preferred,  a table-spoon- 
ful of  chilli  vinegar,  a little  pepper,  or 
cayenne,  or  a pinch  of  salt,  and  a 
table -spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
The  yolks  of  two  eggs  are  a great 
improvement  to  this  sauce,  and  are 
almost  necessary  when  it  is  served 
with  fish ; but  in  that  case  only  half 
the  quantity  of  flour  should  be  used, 
as  the  eggs  help  to  thicken. 

Another  way  : — Take  half  a pint 
of  milk,  thicken  it  with  1 oz.  of  butter 
and  a heaped  teaspoonful  of  flour 
well  worked  together,  and  flavor  with 
lemon-juice,  pepper,  and  salt.  Add  a 
table-spoonful  of  scalded  and  chopped 
parsley.  The  parsley  and  lemon-juice 
should  be  added  off  the  fire. 

The  simplest  way  is  to  beat  till 
smooth  over  the  fire  1 oz.  of  butter 
and  Yz  oz.  of  flour.  Add  a third  of 
a pint  of  water,  stir  and  boil,  then 
add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cream  or 
milk.  Take  the  pan  off  the  fire,  and 
add  parsley,  lemon-juice,  pepper,  and 
salt. 

Mayonnaise  Sauce.  — A mixture 
of  egg  yolks,  oil,  vinegar,  or  lemon- 
juice.  The  principal  point  to  be  at- 
tended to  in  preparing  this  sauce  is 
the  mode  of  mixing,  which  demands 
time,  patience,  and  nicety.  Break 
the  yolk  of  a fresh  egg  into  a bowl 
with  a salt -spoonful  of  pepper  and 
salt  mixed  and  a salt  - spoonful  of 
lemon-juice.  Beat  it  till  thick,  then 
add  from  time  to  time,  during  the 
mixing,  two  or  three  drops  of  the 
best  salad  oil  until  about  4 ozs.  have 
been  used  and  the  mixture  is  thick 
and  yellow.  When  eight  teaspoon- 
fuls of  oil  have  been  used,  stir  in  one 
teaspoonful  of  white -wine  vinegar, 
and  continue  adding  oil  and  vinegar 
in  these  proportions  until  all  the  oil 
is  used.  The  yolk  of  one  egg  would 


344 


Mint  Sauce 


SAUCES 


Olive  Sauce 


be  sufficient  for  a pint  of  oil  and  vin- 
egar in  proportion.  The  addition  of 
a few  drops  of  lemon -juice  makes 
mayonnaise  look  creamy;  tarragon 
vinegar  assists  the  flavor.  If  the 
yolk  of  a hard-boiled  egg  is  added  to 
the  raw  yolk  the  dressing  is  more 
quickly  made  and  not  so  apt  to  curdle. 
If  liked,  dry  mustard  may  be  added 
while  mixing.  Mayonnaise  will  keep 
a long  time  if  bottled  closely  and 
kept  in  a cool  place.  For  other  forms 
of  mayonnaise  dressings,  see  Salads. 

Mint  Sauce. — Gather  a few  sprigs 
of  branch  mint;  pick  off  the  tender 
young  leaves  after  washing  the  mint 
clean ; chop  up  fine  with  a common 
dinner-knife ; put  the  mint  in  the 
bottom  of  a sauce-boat,  add  a full 
table-spoonful  of  white  sugar,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  half 
a gill  of  ice -water.  This  sauce  is 
used  with  young  lamb. 

Mint  Sauce,  Hot.  — Put  into  a 
saucepan  four  sprigs  of  fresh  mint,  a 
bay-leaf,  a quarter  of  an  onion,  one 
table -spoonful  of  canned  tomatoes  or 
one  slice  of  a fresh  tomato,  one  tea- 
spoonful of  sugar,  one  table-spoonful 
of  vinegar,  the  beaten  white  of  one 
egg,  and  one  cup  of  rich,  clear  stock. 
Place  the  pan  over  the  fire,  and  when 
the  contents  come  to  the  boiling- 
point  draw  it  to  the  cooler  part  of  the 
fire  and  let  the  sauce  simmer  ten 
minutes.  Strain  it  through  a sieve 
and  again  place  it  over  the  fire.  To 
a teaspoonful  of  corn-starch  add  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  sherry  and  stir  it 
into  the  sauce,  continuing  to  stir  until 
the  sauce  is  again  boiling.  Then 
chop  fine  a few  fresh  mint  leaves, 
add  them  to  the  sauce,  and  serve. 

Misers’  Sauce. — Take  some  young 
onions  or  shallots  and  chop  them 
fine,  a little  scalded  parsley,  and  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  grated  horseradish. 
Mix  these  with  salad  oil  and  vinegar, 
taking  an  equal  quantity  of  each. 

Mushroom  Sauce. — Peel  and  wash 
54  lb.  of  fresh  mushrooms,  dry  well, 


chop  fine,  put  them  in  a clean  towel, 
and  squeeze  out  the  water.  Chop 
separately  three  table  - spoonfuls  of 
parsley  ; chop  also  half  a table-spoon- 
ful of  shallots.  Put  in  a small  sauce- 
pan one  and  a half  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter;  when  melted,  put  the  shal- 
lots in.  Cook  three  minutes,  stirring 
constantly,  and  add  to  it  mushrooms 
and  parsley.  Cook  three  minutes 
more,  always  stirring ; add  one  heap- 
ing teaspoonful  of  flour ; mix  well 
with  one  salt -spoonful  of  salt,  one- 
half  one  of  pepper,  then  pour  over 
while  stirring  one-half  pint  of  good, 
warm  consomme.  Cover  the  sauce- 
pan; cook  very  slowly  for  fifteen 
minutes,  remove  from  the  fire,  and 
finish  the  sauce  with  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  very  fresh  butter.  Mix  well 
and  serve  with  the  fish.  This  sauce 
could  be  made  the  day  before.  Serve 
in  a hot  sauce-boat. 

Mustard  Sauce.  — Blend  together 
on  a plate  3 ozs.  of  butter  with  a des- 
sert-spoonful of  browned  flour,  half 
the  quantity  of  the  best  mustard,  and 
a little  salt.  Stir  these  ingredients, 
when  smoothly  mixed,  into  a quarter 
of  a pint  of  boiling  water  and  simmer 
five  minutes.  Add  enough  vinegar 
to  flavor. 

Olive  Sauce  (for  roast  duck,  beef- 
steak, and  many  entrees). — Soak  one 
and  one -ha If  dozen  Queen  olives  in 
hot  water  for  twenty  minutes.  Put 
into  a saucepan  one  table  - spoonful 
of  btxtter,  and  when  it  is  melted  add 
one  table -spoonful  each  of  chopped 
carrot  and  onion.  When  they  are 
lightly  browned  stir  in  a heaping 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  and  keep  stir- 
ring until  all  are  thoroughly  brown- 
ed. Then  gradually  add  one  and 
one -half  cupfuls  of  brown  stock,  a 
blade  of  mace,  one  clove,  a bay-leaf, 
and  salt  and  pepper.  Cover  and  let 
the  sauce  just  simmer  for  twenty 
minutes.  Meanwhile  pare  each  olive 
from  the  stone  in  one  long,  spiral 
piece.  Let  the  olives  boil  in  a little 
water  ten  minutes ; then  drain  them 
and  drop  them  into  the  strained 


345 


Orange  Sauce 


SAUCES 


Rhubarb  Sauce 


sauce.  Heat  it  to  boiling-point  and 
serve. 

Orange  Sauce  (for  cold  meat). — 

Rub  the  rind  of  two  sweet  oranges 
upon  three  or  four  lumps  of  sugar. 
Mix  with  them  a wineglassful  of 
port  or  claret,  a quarter  of  a pint  of 
dissolved  red- currant  jelly,  a tea- 
spoonful of  mixed  mustard,  a pinch 
of  cayenne,  and  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  thin  strips  of  orange- rind.  This 
sauce,  if  bottled  and  corked,  will  keep 
for  some  time.  Time,  five  or  six  min- 
utes to  dissolve  the  jelly. 

Oyster  Sauce. — Put  fifty  oysters, 
with  a small  quantity  of  their  liquor, 
in  a saucepan ; stew  them  very  slow- 
ly; add  4 ozs.  of  good  butter  rolled 
in  flour,  four  blades  of  mace,  and  half 
a pint  of  sweet  cream;  beat  up  the 
yolk  of  one  egg,  and  add  just  as  the 
sauce  is  about  to  boil ; stir  one  way 
until  everything  is  well  mixed.  Pre- 
pare this  sauce  about  twenty  min- 
utes before  it  is  to  be  served,  as  it  is 
very  apt  to  curdle  if  kept  a moment 
too  long  upon  the  fire. 

Pepper  Sauce.  — Cut  up  very  fine 
three  large  heads  of  cabbage  and  six 
seeded  pods  of  green  pepper.  Add  a 
table-spoonful  of  celery  seed,  a tea- 
spoonful of  allspice,  the  same  of 
mace,  white  mustard-seed,  and  salt. 
Mix  all  well  together,  then  cover 
with  good  cider  vinegar,  and  put 
away  in  well-stopped  glass  bottles 
for  use. 

Piquante  Sauce. — Put  in  a sauce- 
pan half  a table  - spoonful  of  shallots, 
chopped  fine,  one  table  - spoonful  of 
chopped  pickles,  half  a table-spoonful 
of  French  capers,  and  a gill  of  wine 
vinegar.  Boil  to  reduce  half ; strain. 
Wash  the  saucepan  and  put  in  half 
a table  - spoonful  of  butter,  one  tea- 
spoonful of  flour.  Cook  three  min- 
utes. Pour  on  slowly,  stirring  con- 
stantly, two  gills  of  good,  clear  beef 
stock ; add  the  strained  sauce  and  boil 
gently  fifteen  minutes.  Remove  from 
the  fire,  add  half  a table  - spoonful  of 


butter,  one  table  - spoonful  of  finely 
sliced  pickles,  and  a little  chopped 
parsley.  Pour  the  sauce  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  platter,  or  it  may  be  served 
separately.  Serve  very  hot. 

Poulette  Sauce. — Take  3 ozs.  of 
fresh  butter;  cut  from  it  a little  piece 
the  size  of  a nut,  and  melt  the  rest 
in  a stewpan.  Mix  3 ozs.  of  flour 
smoothly  with  it,  and  stir  the  paste 
over  the  fire  for  three  minutes,  then 
add  gradually  a pint  of  boiling  stock. 
Stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire  for  a quar- 
ter of  an  hour.  Draw  it  away  for  a 
minute  that  it  may  cool  slightly,  and 
mix  with  it  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 
which  have  been  beaten  up  with  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  thick  cream.  Sim- 
mer the  sauce  again  until  it  begins 
to  thicken,  but  it  must  not  boil.  Add 
to  it  a table  - spoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  a little  pepper  and  salt,  and 
a dozen  mushroom  buttons,  and  pour 
it  into  the  tureen.  Just  before  send- 
ing to  table  stir  into  it  the  little  piece 
of  butter  which  was  reserved ; then 
serve  immediately.  To  prepare  the 
mushrooms,  remove  the  stalks  and 
peel  them.  Put  them  into  a stewpan 
with  a table-spoonful  of  lemon-juice 
and  a table-spoonful  of  water.  Shake 
them  over  the  fire  for  a minute  or  two 
till  they  have  absorbed  the  juice. 
Put  1 oz.  of  butter  with  them,  and 
boil  over  a quick  fire  for  five  min- 
utes. Turn  them  into  a basin,  cover 
them  over,  and  they  are  ready  for 
the  sauce.  Time,  altogether,  half  an 
hour. 

Pudding  Sauces.  See  Puddings. 

Rhubarb  Sauce. — Cut  the  rhubarb 
in  pieces  about  an  inch  in  length. 
Wash  them  and  put  the  fruit  into  an 
earthen  pudding-dish.  To  one  quart 
of  cut  rhubarb  use  one  cup  of  granu- 
lated sugar,  a small  half-cup  of  water, 
and  a little  grated  orange  or  lemon 
peel.  Cover  the  dish  with  a plate, 
and  bake  in  a slow  oven  from  two  and 
a half  to  three  hours.  The  rhubarb 
should  remain  whole  and  the  sauce 
be  a fine  color. 


Russian  Sauce 


SAUCES 


Tartar  Sauce 


Russian  Sauce  (for  cold  meats). — 
Take  two  teaspoonfuls  of  mixed  mus- 
tard, a salt  - spoonful  of  salt,  a tea- 
spoonful of  sugar,  and  four  of  grated 
horseradish.  Mix  these  with  suffi- 
cient vinegar  to  cover  them. 

Sauces  for  Fish.  See  Fish. 

Sauces  for  Puddings. 

See  Puddings. 

Shallot  Sauce. — Peel  half  a dozen 
shallots  and  throw  them  into  slightly 
salted  boiling  water,  and  let  them 
boil  for  five  minutes.  Then  drain 
them  and  boil  them  again  in  fresh 
boiling  water,  repeating  this  until 
tender.  A quarter  of  an  hour  in  all 
will  probably  be  sufficient.  Then 
drain  and  mince  them,  and  stir  them 
into  a pint  of  good  melted  butter. 
Let  the  mixture  simmer  a few  minutes 
longer,  and  serve. 

Shrimp  Sauce.  — Put  in  enough 
boiling  water  to  cover  it  a live  lobster 
of  2 lbs.,  cook  twenty  minutes,  re- 
move, cool  off,  detach  the  coral,  cut 
in  small  dice  all  the  meat,  crush  the 
coral  well  with  one  pint  of  pickled 
shrimp,  pass  through  a colander 
and  then  a strainer.  Make  a paste 
of  one  table-spoonful  of  very  fresh 
butter  and  one  of  flour.  Put  in  a 
small  saucepan  % lb.  of  fresh  butter ; 
when  melted,  not  boiling,  add  the 
flour  and  butter;  stir  well,  and  add 
the  gravy  from  the  fish  and  the  shrimp 
paste,  season  with  one  salt-spoonful 
of  salt  and  one  of  white  pepper  and 
half  a one  of  red  pepper.  Finish 
with  half  a teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice  ; add  the  lobster,  and  serve  in 
a warm  sauce-boat  with  the  fish. 

Soubise  Sauce.  — Peel  and  slice 
eight  large  onions.  Put  in  a stew- 
pan  with  2 ozs.  butter,  pepper  and 
salt,  and  cover  the  stewpan,  and  set 
on  the  hot  plate  for  the  onions  to  dis- 
solve but  not  to  color;  when  quite 
soft  add  4 ozs.  flour,  two  freshly 
baked,  mealy  potatoes,  one  pint  stock, 
and  one -half  pint  of  cream.  Stir 


over  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes,  pass 
through  a tamis  or  sieve,  and  keep 
hot  in  a bain-marie  till  wanted. 

Supreme  Sauce. — Take  half  a pint 
of  stock  which  has  been  made  with 
veal  and  chicken  bones.  Thicken 
this  with  white  thickening,  and  stir 
it  until  it  is  smooth  and  coats  the 
spoon.  Take  equal  portions  of  pars- 
ley, cress,  and  tarragon  leaves.  Put 
these  into  scalding  water  for  two 
minutes ; then  drain  and  mince  them 
finely.  Stir  a dessert-spoonful  of  the 
chopped  herbs  into  the  sauce,  and  add 
salt  and  white  pepper.  Carefully  add 
a dessert-spoonful  of  strained  lemon- 
juice  to  the  sauce  before  serving. 

Another  way : — Put  the  bones  of  a 
dressed  chicken  into  a saucepan  with 
an  onion,  a small  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  and  a little  pepper,  salt,  and 
grated  nutmeg.  Pour  upon  them  a 
pint  of  good  veal  stock,  and  simmer 
this  till  it  is  strong  and  pleasantly 
flavored.  Strain  it,  thicken  it  with 
white  roux,  and  boil  it  till  the  sauce 
coats  the  spoon.  Pour  it  out,  stir 
into  it  a little  butter  until  dissolved, 
and  add  a flavoring  of  crushed  al- 
monds. This  sauce  is  generally 
poured  over  the  fish  or  meat  with 
which  it  is  served. 

Sweet  Sauces  for  Puddings. 

See  Puddings. 

Tartar  Sauce.  — Put  the  yolk  of 
an  egg  into  a basin,  and  beat  it  for  a 
minute  or  two  with  a pinch  of  salt,  a 
pinch  of  pepper,  and  a table-spoonful 
of  dry  mustard.  Stir  into  this,  first 
in  drops  and  afterwards  in  teaspoon- 
fuls, four  table-spoonfuls  of  salad  oil, 
and  be  careful  to  beat  the  sauce  for 
a minute  or  two  between  every  addi- 
tion, as  its  excellence  depends  in  a 
great  measure  upon  this  being  done. 
After  each  six  teaspoonfuls  of  oil  put 
in  a teaspoonful  of  vinegar.  Wash 
and  mince  finely  three  shallots,  six 
small  gherkins,  and  a table-spoonful 
of  mixed  chervil  and  tarragon.  Put 
these  into  the  sauce  with  a pinch  of 
cayenne.  Mix  thoroughly  and  serve. 


347 


Tomato  Sauce 


SAUCES 


Vinaigrette  Sauce 


If  the  sauce  is  not  immediately  want- 
ed, it  should  be  kept  in  a cool  place. 
Time  to  mix  the  sauce,  half  an  hour. 

Tomato  Sauce. — Half  a peck  of 
ripe  tomatoes,  peeled,  and  drained 
through  a colander  for  twenty-four 
hours,  then  chopped  up  fine ; add  to 
them  one  small  teacupful  of  salt,  one 
cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  white 
mustard  - seed,  one  cupful  of  nastur- 
tium seed,  four  table  - spoonfuls  of 
horseradish,  two  dozen  stalks  of  celery 
chopped  up  fine  or  oz.  of  celery 
seed,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  ground 
black  pepper,  one  quart  of  good  vin- 
egar— it  must  not  be  boiled ; stir  well 
and  bottle  for  use.  This  sauce  can 
be  used  as  soon  as  made. 

Tomato  Sauce  a la  Francaise. — 

Cut  up  a dozen  medium-sized  tomatoes 
and  put  them  into  a saucepan  with 
four  or  five  sliced  onions,  a little 
parsley  and  thyme,  one  clove,  and 
Z\  lb.  of  good  butter.  Set  on  the 
fire,  where  it  may  cook  gently  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Strain 
through  a hair  sieve  and  serve. 

Veloute  Sauce  (in  small  quanti- 
ties).— Cut  up  the  remains  of  a roast 
fowl,  and  take  one  or  two  bacon- 
bones  or  a couple  of  ounces  of  lean 
ham.  Butter  a saucepan,  put  in  the 
bones,  etc,  with  % lb.  of  veal,  and 
add  a small  carrot,  a small  onion, 
one  or  two  peppercorns,  and  a little 
salt  and  grated  nutmeg.  Pour  over 
the  ingredients  as  much  water  as 
will  cover  them,  and  let  them  simmer 
very  gently  till  the  liquor  is  strong 
and  good.  Strain  it,  skim  well,  and 
free  it  entirely  from  fat.  Boil  it  quick- 
ly for  a short  time,  thicken  with  a 
small  spoonful  of  white  thickening, 
let  it  simmer  by  the  side  of  the  fire 
till  it  has  thrown  up  its  grease,  and 
it  will  be  ready  for  use.  A spoonful 
of  gelatine  may  be  used  instead  of 
the  veal,  if  liked.  Time,  two  hours 
to  simmer  the  sauce. 

Venison  Sauce  (also  used  for  mut- 
ton).— Stir  together  one  table-spoon- 


ful of  butter  with  a teaspoonful  of 
mustard  and  three  table  - spoonfuls 
of  currant  jelly.  When  these  are 
well  blended,  add  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  vinegar,  some  grated  nutmeg, 
and  a dash  of  cayenne  pepper.  Place 
the  sauce  over  the  fire,  and  when  it 
comes  to  the  boiling-point  add  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  pickles 
and  serve  at  once. 

Verte  Sauce.  — Start  an  ordinary 
mayonnaise.  The  yolk  of  a very 
fresh  egg,  two  gills  of  good  olive  oil 
poured  drop  by  drop,  Stirling  all  the 
time  with  a wooden  spoon,  always  in 
the  same  direction,  and  not  too  fast. 
Add  half  a teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a 
good  pinch  of  pepper.  Then  add  the 
following  fine  herbs : half  a table- 
spoonful of  chopped  parsley  and  water- 
cress, a teaspoonful  of  shallots.  These 
fine  herbs  must  be  chopped  very  fine 
and  put  through  a fine  strainer.  To 
finish  the  sauce  pour  drop  by  drop, 
stirring  meanwhile,  half  a table- 
spoonful of  tarragon  vinegar.  The 
sauce  must  have  the  consistency  of 
butter.  The  olive  oil  must  be  at  a 
moderate  temperature.  A fine  sauce 
with  celery  is  made  in  the  same  way, 
but  instead  of  fine  herbs  put  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  celery  chopped  ex- 
ceedingly fine  ; take  the  most  tender 
part.  This  celery  stirred  into  the 
mayonnaise  makes  a delicious  relish 
for  the  fish,  whether  bass,  salmon- 
trout,  or  other  fish  be  used. 

Vinaigrette,  Sauce  a la,  is  com- 
posed of  salad  oil,  vinegar,  finely 
chopped  parsley,  and  shallots,  onions, 
or  chives,  with  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste.  It  is  suitable  for  every  kind 
of  cold  meat,  and  is  admirable  with 
cold  salmon,  turbot,  or  indeed  any 
sort  of  cold  fish.  Hard-boiled  eggs 
are  also  extremely  good  with  sauce 
a la  vinaigrette  ; so  are  many  kinds 
of  cold  vegetables,  and  especially 
asparagus ; in  fact,  this  is  quite  as 
often  eaten  cold  as  hot  in  Paris,  and 
always  a la  vinaigrette.  When  used 
with  cold  meat,  and  particularly  with 
calf’s  head,  the  addition  of  a few 


White  Sauce 


SAUSAGES 


Savory  Beefsteak 


capers  to  the  sauce  is  an  improve- 
ment; and  with  cold  roast  meat  a 
gherkin  cut  up  fine  is  excellent.  Rub 
up  the  salt  and  pepper  with  a little 
vinegar,  then  add  as  much  oil  as  you 
please,  with  chopped  parsley,  shal- 
lot, gherkins,  or  capers,  according  to 
convenience  or  taste. 

White  Sauce.  — Two  table-spoonfuls 
of  butter,  two  heaping  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour,  one  pint  of  milk  (or  cream). 


one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-half 
salt-spoonful  of  pepper.  Cook  the 
butter  until  it  bubbles ; then  add  the 
flour,  and  cook  thoroughly.  Thus 
the  flour  sacs  are  burst  open  by  the 
great  heat,  and  made  digestible. 
Take  from  the  fire,  but  let  it  simmer, 
and  add  the  milk  in  thirds,  being 
careful  to  rub  the  sauce  as  it  thickens 
into  a smooth  paste  each  time  before 
adding  more  milk.  The  seasoning 
should  be  put  in  last. 


Sauerkraut. 

See  Cabbage,  under  Vegetables. 

Sausages.  — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  sausages  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Sausages  of  Mutton.  See  Mutton. 

Fried.  See  Pork. 

Sausages. — To  have  them  good  only 
the  very  best  pieces  of  meat  should 
be  used.  Many  think  anything  will 
do,  but  the  best  quality  of  sausage 
requires  the  best  quality  of  meat. 
To  25  lbs.  of  finely  cut  meat  add  one 
gill  of  black  pepper,  two-thirds  of  a 
gill  of  red  pepper,  a scant  half-pint  of 
fine  table-salt.  Mix  all  well  together. 
If  desired,  a small  quantity  of  thyme 
and  summer-savory,  finely  cut,  can 
be  added.  A little  brown  sugar  is 
said  to  prevent  sausage-meat  from 
becoming  strong.  Sausage  is  fre- 
quently used  for  stuffing.  Mince 
finely,  mix  with  one-third  the  weight 
in  bread  - crumbs,  and  bind  with  the 
yolk  of  an  egg. 

Sausages,  Baked. — As  sausages, 
and  especialh7  pork  sausages,  need 
to  be  thoroughly  cooked  to  be  whole- 
some, it  is  a good  plan,  when  there  is 
time,  to  bake  instead  of  frying  them. 
Put  them  in  a dripping-tin  in  a single 
layer,  placing  a little  fat  in  the  dish 
with  them,  and  bake  in  a moderately 
heated  oven.  When  they  are  brown 
upon  one  side,  turn  them  upon  the 
other;  if  they  are  freshly  made  they 


will  not  need  to  be  pricked.  They 
should  be  baked  very  gently.  When 
done  enough,  lift  them  out,  drain 
them,  and  serve  very  hot  with  brown 
sauce.  Time  to  bake,  one  hour  and 
a half. 

Sausages,  Boiled.  — Put  the  sau- 
sages into  boiling  water,  let  them 
boil  up  once,  then  draw  the  saucepan 
to  the  side,  and  let  the  sausages 
simmer  gently  until  done  enough. 
Drain  them,  and  serve  upon  toast. 
Time  to  boil  the  sausages,  ten  to  fif- 
teen minutes,  according  to  size. 

Sausages  withWhiteWine. — Prick 
with  a fork  1 lb.  of  sausages,  put  them 
in  an  oval  copper  platter  with  half  a 
tumblerful  of  ordinary  dry  white  wine. 
Cook  them  slowly  for  eight  minutes, 
turning  them  around  ; remove  to  plate 
and  keep  warm  in  the  oven.  Strain 
the  wine ; put  in  a small  saucepan 
half  a table-spoonful  of  butter  and 
half  a one  of  flour.  Cook  three  min- 
utes, stirring;  do  not  let  it  brown. 
Add  the  white  wine  slowly,  stirring 
all  the  time.  Add  half  a pint  of 
good  cream  slowly ; keep  stirring. 
Add  one  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  half  a 
one  of  white  pepper  ; cook  five  minutes 
slowly.  Remove  from  the  fire ; mix 
two  yolks  of  eggs  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  cream,  and  add  the  mixt- 
ure to  the  sauce.  Mix  well.  Serve 
in  a small,  round  bowl,  with  the  sau- 
sages around  it. 

Savory  Beefsteak. 


349 


See  Beef. 


Savory  Sandwiches  SEASONINGS 


Short  Bread 


Savory  Sandwiches. 

See  Sandwiches. 
Scallops.  See  Fish. 


Scones. 

Scotch  Broth. 
Scotch  Cakes. 
Scotch  Haggis. 


Scotch  Scones. 


See  Bread. 
See  Soups. 
See  Cakes. 
See  Mutton. 
See  Soups. 
See  Bread. 


Scotch  Hotchpotch. 


Scrambled  Eggs.  See  Eggs. 

Scrapple.  See  Pork. 

Seasoning  of  Herbs  for  Soup,  etc. — 

Two  ounces  of  thyme,  2 ozs.  of  parsley, 
I oz.  of  celery  salt,  and  i oz.  of  thin 
lemon-rind.  Green  herbs,  however,  are 
preferable.  See  Bouquet  for  Soups. 


Seasonings,  Every-day.  — The  in- 
gredients used  for  the  following  sea- 
sonings should  be  powdered  separate- 
ly, then  mixed  together,  preserved  in 
dry  bottles  well  stoppered,  and  stored 
in  a cool,  dry  place.  They  may  be 
prepared  during  an  hour  of  leisure, 
and  will  be  found  most  convenient  for 
flavoring  purposes. 

Spice,  Mixed,  for  Flavoring  Sau- 
sages.— Five  pounds  of  black  pepper, 
2*4  lbs.  of  ginger,  I lb.  of  nutmeg,  I lb. 
of  cloves,  Yz  lb.  of  aniseed,  and  J4  lb. 
of  coriander  seed. 


Spice,  Mixed,  for  Flavoring  Soups 
and  Gravies. — Take  2 lbs.  of  black 
pepper,  I lb.  of  ginger,  J4  lb.  of  grated 
ntitmeg,  Yz  lb.  of  allspice,  *4  lb.  of 
cinnamon,  I oz.  of  cloves,  and  3 lbs. 
of  dry  salt. 

Spice  for  Ragouts. — Half  a pound 
of  mustard,  ^ lb.  of  black  pepper, 
Yz  lb.  of  grated  lemon -rind,  2 ozs. 
of  cayenne,  1 oz.  of  ginger,  1 oz.  of 
allspice,  J4  oz*  °f  grated  nutmeg, 
and  1 lb.  of  dry  salt. 


Spice,  Sweet,  for  Flavoring  Pastry. 

— Two  ounces  of  cloves,  2 ozs.  of  cin- 
namon, 2 ozs.  of  mace,  2 ozs.  of  nut- 
meg, and  2 ozs.  of  sugar. 

Seed  Cakes.  See  Cakes. 

Semolina. — Put  a cupful  of  sem- 
olina on  the  fire  in  enough  boiling 
salted  water  to  cover  it.  Boil  until 
it  thickens — about  twenty  minutes — 
stirring  occasionally.  Turn  it  out 
in  a pan,  and  when  cool  enough  to 
handle  make  into  oval  balls  about  the 
size  of  an  egg.  Drop  these  gently 
into  boiling  milk,  and  simmer  ten 
minutes ; watch  carefully  to  prevent 
scorching.  Take  out  with  a split 
spoon ; lay  in  a platter  or  pudding- 
dish  ; thicken  the  milk  with  a little 
butter  and  flour,  and  pour  this  around 
the  balls.  Sprinkle  them  with  dry, 
powdered  cheese — Parmesan  is  best 
— set  in  the  oven  three  minutes,  and 
send  to  table.  Semolina  can  be  pro- 
cured at  the  larger  groceries.  A fine  • 
hominy  may  be  used  in  its  place. 

Semolina  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

Shad. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  shad  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indi- 
cated : 

Shad,  Baked.  See  Fish. 

..  Broiled. 

Planked. 

Shad-roe  Croquettes. 

en  Brochettes. 


Shallot  Pickle. 

See  Pickles. 

Shallot  Sauce. 

See  Sauces. 

Sheep’s-head. 

See  Fish. 

Shell-fish  Soup. 

See  Soups. 

Sherbets. 

See  Beverages. 

Sherbets,  Frozen. 

See  Ices. 

Sherwood  Biscuit. 

See  Bread. 

Short  Bread. 

See  Cakes. 

350 


Short  Cakes 


SOUFFLES 


Soubise  Sauce 


Short  Cakes.  See  Cakes. 

Shrimps. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  shrimps  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Shrimps,  Canned.  See  Fish, 

in  Jelly. 

Salad. 

Stuffed. 

..  Force-meat  of 

See  Force-meats. 

..  Canapes.  See  Sandwiches. 

Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Silver  Cake.  See  Cakes. 

Sippets  of  Bread.  — Cut  slices  of 
stale  bread  about  the  third  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  trim  into  any  form  re- 
quired. Fry  them  in  butter  till  some 
are  dark,  but  not  burned,  and  some 
a light  brown.  When  they  are  crisp 
lay  them  on  a cloth  or  brown  paper 
to  dry.  When  wanted  to  adhere  to 
the  edge  of  a dish,  dip  the  end  in  a 
mixture  of  white  of  egg  and  flout.  If 
the  dish  be  made  very  hot  the  sippets 
will  not  stay  in  their  places. 

Slip  is  bonny-clabber  without  its 
acidity,  and  so  delicate  is  its  fla- 
vor that  many  persons  like  it  just 
as  well  as  ice-cream.  It  is  prepared 
thus : Make  a quart  of  milk  mod- 
erately warm ; then  stir  into  it  one 
table  - spoonful  of  rennet ; set  it  by, 
and  when  cool  again  it  will  be  as 


stiff  as  jelly.  It  should  be  made 
only  a few  hours  before  it  is  to  be 
used,  or  it  will  be  tough  and  watery ; 
in  summer  set  the  dish  on  ice  after 
it  has  jellied.  Serve  with  powdered 
sugar,  nutmeg,  and  cream. 


Smelts,  Broiled.  See  Fish. 

Fried. 

Stuffed. 

Snipes  a la  Minute.  See  Game. 
Roasted, 
to  Truss. 


Snow.  See  Jellies. 

Snow  Eggs.  See  Eggs. 

Snow-mountain  Cake.  See  Cakes. 


Snow  Pancakes.  See  Bread. 


Snowden  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

Soda  Biscuit.  See  Bread. 

Soles  a la  Cr£me.  See  Fish, 

au  Gratiri. 

..  Fillet  of. 
in  Turbans. 


Sorbets. 
Soubise  Broth. 
Soubise  Sauce. 


See  Ices. 
See  Soups. 
See  Sauces. 


SOUFFLES 


A properly  made  souffle  is  light  in 
appearance,  delicate  in  flavor,  as  well 
as  nourishing  and  easily  digested.  It 
is  a little  difficult  to  make.  They  are 
in  perfection  only  when  served  light 
and  high,  just  as  they  come  out  of  the 
oven,  before  they  have  had  time  to  sink 
below  the  original  level.  In  order  to 
insure  this,  hold  a salamander  or  red- 
hot  shovel  over  the  souffle,  or  cover 
with  a hot  pan,  till  it  reaches  the  din- 
ing-room door.  More  important  than 


this  is  that  everything  is  in  readiness, 
as  delay  at  the  critical  moment  may 
spoil  everything.  A souffle  should  be 
cooked  in  a souffle-tin,  which  fits  into 
a silver-plated,  ornamental  dish,  in 
which  it  can  be  sent  to  table.  When 
this  is  not  at  hand,  a plain  round  or 
oval  cake-tin,  or  a deep  pie-dish,  may 
be  used,  with  a high  band  of  buttered 
writing-paper  fastened  inside  the  rim, 
to  prevent  the  batter  falling  over  the 
sides  of  the  dish.  A properly  folding 


351 


Almond  Souffle 


SOUFFLES 


Apricot  Souffle 


case  of  frilled  writing-paper  should 
be  prepared,  into  which  it  may  be 
quickly  dropped  when  taken  from  the 
oven.  The  number  of  whites  of  eggs 
should  generally  exceed  the  number 
of  yolks  of  eggs.  Do  not  add  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  until  the  last  mo- 
ment, and  be  careful  that  they  are 
beaten  separately  to  a very  stiff  froth, 
and  then  are  stirred  lightly  into  the 
souffle.  The  success  of  the  dish  de- 
pends in  a great  measure  upon  this 
part  of  the  business  being  done  thor- 
oughly. Butter  the  tin,  already  lined 
with  oiled  writing-paper,  and  put  it 
in  the  oven  till  very  hot.  Pour  in 
the  batter  quickly,  and  place  it  in  a 
moderate  oven.  The  dish  ought  not 
to  be  more  than  half  full.  Move  it 
about  occasionally,  that  it  may  be 
equally  baked.  When  it  has  risen 
to  a good  height,  is  brightly  colored, 
and  quite  set  in  the  centre,  it  is  done 
enough,  and  should  be  served  imme- 
diately. They  are  generally  handed 
round  after  the  removes  of  the  second 
course.  They  are  very  good  also  for 
ordinary  dinners. 

Almond  Souffle. — One  pint  milk, 
half  a cupful  of  flour,  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter,  three  table -spoonfuls 
of  fine  sugar,  four  eggs  (the  whites 
and  yolks  beaten  separately  and  very 
stiff),  two  table-spoonfuls  of  almonds, 
blanched  and  chopped  or  pounded 
fine.  (Almond  paste  is  even  better 
for  this  purpose.)  Cook  together  the 
butter  and  the  flour,  and  when  they 
are  smoothly  blended  add  the  milk. 
Stir  to  a thick  paste,  add  the  sugar, 
and  take  from  the  fire.  Beat  in  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  the  almonds,  and 
the  whites.  Turn  into  a buttered 
pudding-dish,  and  bake  fifteen  min- 
utes in  a good  oven.  Serve  as  soon 
as  it  is  done,  before  it  falls. 

Apple  Souffle. — Peel  and  slice  six 
apples,  put  them  in  a pan,  add  a 
cupful  of  water  and  a cupful  of  sugar, 
and  let  the  apples  cook  until  they 
become  soft  enough  to  pass  through 
a sieve.  Dissolve  a small  teaspoonful 
of  corn -starch  in  a glassful  of  milk, 


set  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  it  be- 
comes thick  add  the  well-beaten  yolks 
of  four  eggs  to  it.  Remove  from 
the  fire,  stir  into  it  the  apple  pulp,  and 
beat  until  it  is  thoroughly  smooth ; 
then  stir  in  the  whites  of  four  eggs 
beaten  to  a stiff  froth.  Pour  into  a 
souffle-tin  and  put  into  the  oven  at 
once.  In  fifteen  minutes  it  will  be 
cooked. 

Apple  Souffle,  Frozen. — Pare  and 
slice  a dozen  fine  pippins  or  other 
well-flavored  tart  apples,  one  by  one. 
As  you  slice  them  throw  at  once  into 
a saucepan  of  boiling  water  drawn 
to  the  front  of  the  range.  This  is 
to  keep  them  from  darkening  after 
they  are  pared.  As  soon  as  all  are 
in,  pour  off  most  of  the  water,  leaving 
just  enough  to  cover  the  fruit  well, 
and  stew  fast,  stirring  often,  until  the 
apples  are  broken  to  pieces.  Rub 
through  a colander  into  a bowl, 
sweeten  lavishly,  and  set  aside  until 
cold.  Stir  into  it  then  the  unbeaten 
whites  of  four  raw  eggs ; put  into  a 
freezer  with  a quick  movement,  sur- 
round with  rock-salt  and  ice,  and  turn 
rapidly  until  frozen.  You  will  now 
have  a smooth,  solid  column,  singu- 
larly pleasant  to  the  taste,  and  in 
appearance  undistinguishable  from 
ice-cream.  Like  all  other  ices,  this 
is  better  for  being  left  in  the  freezer 
for  an  hour  or  so  after  it  is  frozen. 
Cover  with  ice  and  salt  and  throw  a 
thick  cover  over  it. 

Apricot  Souffle.  — Split,  peel,  and 
stone  a dozen  ripe  apricots,  put  them 
into  a preserving  - pan,  with  half  a 
pint  of  water  and  lb.  of  sifted  sugar. 
Keep  them  simmering  gently,  until 
the  apricots  can  be  pulped  and  beaten 
through  a fine  sieve ; then  mix  to- 
gether 4 ozs.  of  flour  and  half  a pint 
of  cream;  add  it  to  the  pulped  apri- 
cots, with  2 ozs.  of  butter,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  it  boils.  Take  the 
mixture  off  the  fire  and  stir  in  six 
beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and  lastly  and 
lightly  nine  whites  whisked  to  a firm 
froth.  Have  ready  a souffle-dish,  with 
a band  of  paper  above  to  allow  of  its 


352 


Cheese  Souffle 


SOUFFLES 


Lemon  Souffle 


rising  a great  deal,  which  it  will  do  if 
the  above  instructions  are  carefully 
carried  out.  Bake  in  a moderate 
heat,  and  turn  the  dish  about,  that 
all  parts  of  the  souffle  may  be  alike. 
Time,  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Cheese  Souffle. — Cook  together  in 
a saucepan  a table-spoonful  of  flour 
and  one  of  butter,  then  add  a half- 
cupful of  milk,  stirring  all  the  time, 
until  smooth  and  thick.  Now  add 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  grated  Par- 
mesan cheese  and  a good  pinch  each 
of  pepper  and  salt.  Remove  from 
the  fire,  and  stir  into  the  mixture 
the  well-beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
and,  last  of  all,  and  lightly,  the  whites 
whipped  very  stiff.  Turn  into  a 
greased  baking-dish,  and  bake  until 
it  is  puffed  up  to  twice  its  original 
size  and  is  a bright  brown  in  color. 

Chicken  Souffle.  — One  pint  of 
cooked  chicken,  finely  chopped ; one 
pint  of  cream  sauce,  four  eggs,  a 
little  onion -juice,  salt,  pepper.  Stir 
the  chicken  and  seasoning  into  the 
boiling  sauce.  Cook  two  minutes. 
Add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  well  beaten, 
and  set  away  to  cool.  When  cold, 
add  the  whites,  beaten  to  a stiff  froth. 
Turn  into  a buttered  dish,  and  bake 
half  an  hour-  Serve  with  cream 
sauce. 

Chocolate  Souffle.  — A % lb.  of 

grated  chocolate  delicately  flavored 
with  vanilla,  % lb.  of  almonds  blanch- 
ed and  pounded,  6 ozs.  of  sifted  sugar, 
and  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  must  be 
stirred  together  for  a half-hour  ; then, 
after  whisking  the  same  number  of 
whites  to  a stiff  froth,  stir  them  gen- 
tly in  with  the  rest  of  the  ingredients. 
Butter  a mould  well,  strew  it  with 
bread-crumbs,  put  in  the  batter,  and 
bake  it  an  hour  in  a regularly  heated 
oven. 

Fish  Souffle.- — Cook  a sea -bass 
weighing  3 lbs.  in  a court-bouillon 
made  as  follows : Into  the  fish- 

kettle  put  two  quarts  of  water,  two 
sliced  onions,  one  sliced  carrot,  four 
23 


sprigs  of  parsley,  one  bunch  of  celery, 
one  bay-leaf,  two  cloves,  four  whole 
peppers,  one  - half  table  - spoonful  of 
salt,  and  two  gills  of  vinegar.  Cook 
twenty  minutes.  Add  the  fish,  which 
has  been  previously  washed  and 
dried  in  a napkin,  and  cook  for  twenty 
minutes  longer  over  a moderate  fire. 
Remove  the  fish,  pick  out  all  skin 
and  bones,  and  pass  the  meat  through 
a sieve.  Put  into  a saucepan  one- 
half  table  - spoonful  each  of  butter 
and  flour ; stir  and  cook  for  about  four 
minutes.  Add  slowly,  stirring  con- 
stantly, one-half  pjnt  of  rich  cream, 
seasoned  with  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  two  pinches  of  pepper.  Cook 
three  minutes,  then  add  the  fish, 
mixing  thoroughly.  Cool  the  mixt- 
ure in  a bowl  before  adding  the  yolks 
of  six  eggs ; mix  well,  add  the  six 
whites  well  beaten,  and  mix  gently. 
Butter  slightly  a plain  mould,  pour 
in  the  puree,  and  put  into  a hot  oven 
for  fifteen  minutes.  If  preferred,  this 
souffle  may  be  served  in  small,  in- 
dividual timbales.  Butter  the  tim- 
bales and  spread  with  very  fine  bread- 
crumbs. AVhen  cooked,  serve  at  once 
turned  out  on  a platter  on  a folded 
napkin.  Any  other  fish  may  be 
used. 

French  Souffle. — Put  a piece  of 
butter  the  size  of  a small  egg,  and 
stir  it  over  the  fire,  in  a clean  sauce- 
pan, with  two  table  - spoonfuls  of 
flour.  When  thick  (it  must  not 
brown),  have  ready  half  a pint  of 
boiling  milk  and  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  cream,  and  stir  the  whole 
together.  Pour  it  out  into  a bowl 
when  smooth  and  thick,  and  flavor 
with  maraschino,  or  to  taste.  Beat 
up  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  with  2 ozs. 
of  pounded  sugar;  add  them,  with 
the  whites  of  eight  eggs  beaten  to  a 
stiff  froth,  and  bake  carefully  in  a 
souffle-dish.  Time,  about  one  hour. 

Lemon  Souffle. — Mix  % lb.  of  flour 
very  smoothly  with  a pint  and  a half 
of  milk ; add  Y\  lb.  of  sugar  which 
has  been  well  rubbed  upon  the  rind 
of  three  fresh  lemons,  and  % lb.  of 


353 


Lobster  Souffle 


SOUFFLES 


Oyster  Souffle 


butter,  and  boil  gently  until  the  mixt- 
ure is  thick  and  smooth.  Pour  it  out, 
and  stir  it  until  it  is  nearly  cold,  then 
add  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  well  beaten. 
Last  of  all,  beat  the  whites  of  nine 
eggs  to  a firm  froth,  and  add  them, 
with  the  strained  juice  of  two  lemons, 
to  the  rest.  Butter  a souffle-mould 
thickly,  half  fill  it  with  the  mixture, 
and  bake  in  a moderate  oven.  If  it 
is  necessary  to  fill  the  mould  more 
than  half  full,  tie  a band  of  well-but- 
tered white  paper  round  the  top,  to 
prevent  the  contents  running  over. 
Serve  the  moment  it  comes  out  of  the 
oven.  Time  to  bake,  from  thirty  to 
forty  minutes. 

Lobster  Souffle  (cold). — Take  % lb. 
of  cold  boiled  lobster  and  a table- 
spoonful of  lobster  coral,  mix  and 
rub  through  a sieve;  add  a table- 
spoonful each  of  thick  cream  and 
mayonnaise  dressing,  a dash  of  cay- 
enne, half  a teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  and  a gill  of  melted  aspic  jelly. 
Set  on  ice  until  the  mixture  begins 
to  thicken,  add  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  mayonnaise,  a table-spoonful  of 
chopped  shrimp,  and  a teaspoonful 
of  minced  parsley.  Beat  the  mixture 
until  cold ; fill  little  paper  or  china 
cases  with  it,  and  set  on  ice  until 
firm.  Garnish  the  tops  with  chopped 
hard-boiled  egg,  and  serve. 

Omelet  Souffl6.  — Separate  the 
whites  from  the  yolks  of  six  eggs, 
taking  care  to  remove  the  specks. 
Add  to  the  yolks  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  pulverized  sugar  and  a little  lemon- 
juice,  beating  them  well  together. 
Whip  the  whites  until  they  stand 
alone,  when  they  must  be  mixed 
with  the  rest.  Put  a small  piece  of 
butter  into  the  frying-pan,  let  it  melt 
upon  a slow  fire,  then  add  the  omelet, 
taking  great  care  that  it  does  not 
burn ; turn  it  out  upon  a dessert- 
dish,  glaze  by  strewing  powdered 
sugar  over  it ; then  put  it  into  the 
oven ; when  it  has  risen,  glaze  it  again, 
and  serve  it.  This  is  considered  one 
of  the  most  delicious  of  all  desserts  by 
connoisseurs.  The  French  frequently 


flavor  with  orange-flower  water  in- 
stead of  lemon. 

Orange  Souffle.  — Two  sweet  or- 
anges, juice  and  pulp,  half  a tea- 
spoonful  of  orange  extract,  two  large 
or  three  small  eggs  (beaten  sepa- 
rately), three  heaping  table-spoonfuls 
of  powdered  sugar,  one  teaspoonful 
of  caramel,  one  level  salt-spoonful  of 
salt.  Beat  the  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
sugar  gradually  with  the  whites  with 
a Dover  egg-beater.  Into  the  well- 
beaten  yolks  put  one  table-spoonful 
of  sugar  and  half  a teaspoonful  of 
orange  extract  and  salt.  Put  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  butter  into  the  cutlet- 
pan,  rubbing  the  sides  thoroughly. 
Reserve  one-third  white  of  egg,  and 
put  the  rest  in  with  yolks,  folding 
and  cutting  in.  Put  over  the  flame 
while  you  spread  the  mixture  in  the 
pan ; then  set  over  hot  water,  cover 
closely,  and  cook  fifteen  or  seven- 
teen minutes.  Do  not  uncover.  If  the 
water  dries  out  of  the  pan,  add  more 
carefully.  When  the  mixture  is  set, 
sprinkle  the  orange  pulp  over  the 
top  with  a spoon,  and  add  the  rest 
of  the  beaten  whites  as  a border 
around  the  edge.  When  that  is  set, 
lift  up  carefully  from  side  of  dish,  and 
pour  under  the  rest  of  the  juice  in  which 
the  caramel  has  been  stirred.  Serve 
from  dish  or  turn  out  upon  platter. 

Oyster  Souffle.  — Put  2 ozs.  of 
butter  into  a saucepan,  and  set  over 
the  fire  to  melt;  add  a table-spoonful 
of  sifted  flour,  stir  until  smooth ; thin 
with  a gill  and  a half  of  cream  and  the 
liquor  from  a dozen  oysters;  let  come 
to  a boil,  take  from  the  fire,  and 
season  with  salt,  cayenne,  and  a tea- 
spoonful each  of  anchovy  essence  and 
lemon -juice.  Have  a dozen  oysters 
cut  in  pieces  (not  chopped),  and  add 
with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  ; mix  well, 
and  carefully  beat  in  the  frothed 
whites  of  two  eggs.  Turn  into  a 
souffle-case,  cover  the  top  with  grated 
cracker  and  bits  of  butter ; bake  in  a 
hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes.  When 
done,  sprinkle  the  top  with  lobster 
coral  and  cayenne. 


Pineapple  Souffl6 


SOUFFLES 


Souffle  Pudding 


Pineapple  Souffle,  Frozen.  — Peel 
and  chop  into  bits  one  large  or  two 
small  pineapples,  fully  ripe.  Lay 
the  pulp  in  a deep  dish,  and  sprinkle 
each  layer  with  sugar ; then  set  aside 
for  several  hours.  Mash  and  strain 
the  fruit  pulp  till  you  have  one  pint 
of  pure  juice.  Put  it  and  one  pint 
of  v.  ater  in  a double  boiler,  and  add 
six  eggs,  well  beaten,  with  I lb.  of 
sugar.  Cook  all  together  to  a soft 
custard  ; then  strain,  and  beat  briskly 
till  cold.  Freeze  very  rapidly,  and 
serve,  either  plain  or  with  sweet 
cream,  flavored  with  a little  of  the 
juice  of  the  fruit.  In  either  case, 
you  will  find  the  ice  a most  delicious 
one,  and  will  be  amply  repaid  for  any 
trouble  it  entails.  It  is  richer  than 
sherbet  and  lighter  than  ice-cream. 

Potato  Souffle  (sometimes  called 
potato  omelet). — Stir  into  one  cupful 
of  cold  mashed  potato  half  a cupful 
of  rich  milk,  and  whip  until  very 
smooth  and  light.  Add  three  well- 
beaten  eggs,  and  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste,  and  beat  again,  hard  and  swift- 
ly. Have  ready  in  a frying-pan  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  and 
turn  the  potato  into  this  and  cook  as 
you  would  an  omelet.  When  it  is 
done,  turn  into  a very  hot  dish,  and 
serve  immediately. 

Raisin  Souffle. — Seed  a cupful  of 
raisins,  wash  them  carefully,  and 
chop  them  coarsely.  Pour  upon 
them  a table-spoonful  of  brandy  or 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  sherry.  Let 
them  stand  in  this  for  half  an  hour. 
Beat  the  whites  of  seven  eggs  to  a 
stiff  meringue  with  seven  table- 
spoonfuls of  powdered  sugar.  Stir 
in  the  raisins  and  liquor,  turn  all  into 
a buttered  pudding-dish,  and  bake 
in  a steady  oven  for  half  an  hour. 

Rice  - and  - apple  Souffle.  — Pick 
over  carefully  Vz  lb.  of  the  whitest 
rice ; blanch  it  in  boiling  water ; 
drain  it  well,  and  put  it  on  to  boil, 
with  milk  sufficient  to  cover  it,  a 
small  piece  of  stick  cinnamon,  a little 
grated  lemon  - peel  and  grated  nut- 


meg; let  it  boil  until  the  milk  is  ab- 
sorbed, or  longer  if  needful,  adding 
a little  more  milk.  When  it  is  ready 
to  take  up,  remove  the  cinnamon, 
add  sugar  to  make  it  not  quite  sweet 
enough ; rub  the  white  of  an  egg 
around  the  sides  and  bottom  of  a 
glass  bowl ; when  the  rice  is  cool,  turn 
it  into  the  dish,  heaping  it  up  at  the 
sides  until  it  reaches  the  top  of  the 
bowl  and  is  about  an  inch  and  a half 
thick  at  bottom  and  sides ; the  white 
of  the  egg  makes  it  adhere  to  the  bowl 
and  leaves  a space  for  the  marmalade. 
Egg  the  rice  on  the  inside;  pour  in 
apple  marmalade,  or  a fresh  sauce 
from  green  apples,  sweetened,  and 
flavored  with  lemon ; beat  light  the 
whites  of  three  or  four  eggs,  drop 
them  on  the  top,  as  you  would  on 
floating-island,  a spoonful  at  a time ; 
sift  flour-sugar  on  the  top,  and  brown 
with  a salamander  or  a hot  shovel. 
It  may  be  eaten  with  sauce  or  a cus- 
tard. 

Salmon  Souffle. — Mix  2 ozs.  each 
of  butter  and  flour  together  in  a small 
saucepan,  and  set  over  the  fire;  add 
a pint  and  a half  of  rich  milk,  let 
come  to  a boil,  stir  in  the  beaten 
yolks  of  three  eggs,  with  pepper,  salt, 
a dash  of  cayenne,  and  a teaspoon- 
ful of  tarragon  vinegar.  Take  from 
the  fire,  and  mix  in  carefully  3^ 
ozs.  of  cold  boiled  (or  canned)  salmon, 
which  has  been  picked  free  of  bone 
and  skin,  and  rubbed  to  a paste  with 
the  stiffly  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs. 
Turn  the  souffle  into  a greased  tin 
or  souffle-case,  dredge  the  top  with 
grated  bread-crumbs,  lay  over  bits 
of  butter,  and  set  into  the  oven  to 
bake  for  thirty  minutes. 

Souffle  Pudding-.  — Melt  1 oz.  of 
butter  in  a stewpan,  stir  in  */z  oz.  of 
flour  and  1 oz.  of  sifted  sugar;  mix 
well  together,  add  a gill  of  milk,  and 
stir  over  the  fire  with  a wooden  spoon 
until  it  boils  and  is  thick.  Take 
the  stewpan  off  the  fire,  beat  up  the 
yoflcs  of  three  eggs  with  half  a tea- 
spoonful of  extract  of  vanilla,  and 
stir  a little  at  a time  into  the  paste. 


355 


Spinach  Souffle 


SOUPS 


Stock 


Put  a small  pinch  of  salt  to  the  whites 
of  four  eggs,  whip  them  as  stiff  as 
possible,  and  stir  lightly  into  the  pud- 
ding, which  pour  immediately  into 
the  prepared  mould.  Have  ready  a 
saucepan  with  enough  boiling  water 
to  reach  a little  way  up  the  tin,  which 
is  best  placed  on  a trivet,  so  that  the 
water  cannot  touch  the  paper  band. 
Let  the  pudding  steam  very  gently  for 
twenty  minutes,  or  until  it  is  firm  in 
the  middle  and  will  turn  out.  Serve 
with  any  dainty  sauce. 

Spinach  Souffle.  — Take  half  a 
peck  of  spinach,  pick  it  over,  wash 
well,  drain,  and  put  into  a saucepan 
without  water ; sprinkle  with  salt, 
and  let  steam  fifteen  minutes;  take 
up,  chop,  and  press  through  a col- 
ander ; add  two  table  - spoonfuls  of 
cream,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  a salt- 
spoonful  of  black  pepper,  and  a dash 
of  cayenne,  with  the  beaten  whites  of 
five  eggs.  Butter  a souffle-case,  and 
turn  the  mixture  in.  Cover  the  top 
with  grated  bread-crumbs  and  bits  of 
butter,  and  bake  in  a hot  oven.  Serve 
with  egg  sauce.  Asparagus  or  green 
pease  may  be  used  in  making  this 
souffle,  in  place  of  the  spinach. 

Strawberry  Souffle. — Sprinkle  the 
berries  with  sugar ; place  on  the  ice 
and  let  it  stand  several  hours.  Mean- 
while put  a pint  and  a half  of  milk 
in  a double  boiler,  and  when  it  comes 
to  a boil  add  two  table  - spoonfuls  of 
sugar,  a pinch  of  salt,  and  two  beaten 


eggs ; flavor  with  vanilla.  Set  away 
to  cool.  Just  before  serving,  whip  to 
a froth  half  a pint  of  cream.  Pour 
the  custard  over  the  chilled  berries, 
and  place  the  cream  on  top  of  the  cus- 
tard. 

Tomato  Souffle. — Take  half  a pint 
of  tomato  pulp  that  has  been  rubbed 
through  a sieve,  I oz.  of  butter,  2 ozs. 
of  grated  cheese,  lYz  ozs.  of  boiled 
macaroni,  I oz.  of  stale  bread-crumbs, 
and  a teaspoonful  of  made  mustard ; 
mix  all  together  in  a saucepan,  and 
stir  over  the  fire  until  boiling;  take 
from  the  fire,  let  cool ; add  first  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  then  the  whites 
of  three,  with  salt  and  pepper.  Turn 
into  a buttered  dish,  and  set  into  the 
oven  to  bake  quickly.  Dust  over  with 
grated  Parmesan. 

Vegetable  Souffle. — Scrape,  wash, 
and  steam  two  carrots  until  tender; 
take  up  and  rub  through  a sieve  with 
one  large  boiled  potato;  add  I oz.  of 
butter,  a table-spoonful  of  flour,  mixed 
until  smooth  with  a little  cold  milk,  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a dash  of  cayenne, 
and  a table-spoonful  of  chopped  pars- 
ley; mix  all  together  in  a saucepan 
over  the  fire.  Beat  in  the  yolks  of 
three  eggs ; when  cool,  add  the  stiffly 
frothed  whites  of  four  eggs.  Grease 
a souffle-mould  or  a tin  pan,  dredge 
with  dry  bread-crumbs,  pour  in  the 
mixture,  sprinkle  the  top  with  brown- 
ed cracker  and  bits  of  butter,  and  set 
into  a moderate  oven  to  bake. 


sou  PS 


Stock  is  the  basis  of  all  meat- 
sauces,  soups,  and  purees.  It  is 
the  juice  of  meat  extracted  by  long 
and  gentle  simmering,  and  in  mak- 
ing it  it  should  be  remembered  that 
the  object  to  be  aimed  at  is  to  draw 
the  goodness  out  of  the  materials  into 
the  liquor.  It  may  be  prepared  in  va- 
rious ways,  expensively,  or  economi- 
cally. All  stock  which  is  to  be  used 


for  miscellaneous  purposes  should  be 
simply  made ; that  is,  all  flavoring 
ingredients  should  be  omitted  entirely 
until  its  use  is  decided  upon.  The 
stock  will  then  keep  longer  than 
it  would  do  if  vegetables,  herbs,  and 
spices  were  boiled  in  it,  besides  which 
the  flavoring  can  be  adapted  to  its 
special  purpose.  To  insure  its  keep- 
ing, stock  should  be  boiled  and 


Soup  Stock 


SOUPS 


Apricot  Soup 


skimmed  every  day  in  summer  and 
every  other  day  in  winter.  The 
pan  and  the  lid  used  in  making 
it  should  be  scrupulously  clean. 
Granite  - ware  is  the  best.  When 
ready,  stock  should  be  poured  into  an 
earthenware  pan  and  left  uncovered 
until  it  is  cold.  It  should  on  no 
account  be  allowed  to  cool  in  a metal 
pan.  Before  being  used,  every  par- 
ticle of  fat  which  has  settled  on  the 
surface  should  be  removed,  and  the 
liquor  should  be  poured  off  free  from 
sediment.  In  a house  where  meat  is 
regularly  used,  a good  cook  will  never 
be  without  a little  stock.  Broken 
remnants  of  all  kinds  will  find  their 
way  to  the  stock- pot,  and  will  not  be 
thrown  away  until,  by  gentle  stewing, 
they  have  been  made  to  yield  to  the 
utmost  whatever  of  flavor  and  of 
goodness  they  possessed.  The  liquor 
in  which  fresh  meat  has  been  boiled 
should  always  be  used  as  stock. 
Frequently  there  is  immediate  need 
of  stock  and  none  on  hand.  The  fol- 
lowing recipes  will  be  welcome  : 

Soup  Stock  quickly  made.  — Take 
I Yz  lbs.  of  beef  cut  into  thin  slices 
and  diced.  Cover  with  one  quart  of 
cold  water,  boil  twenty  minutes,  take 
from  the  fire,  then  skim  and  strain. 

Another  way  : — Take  an  onion,  peel 
it,  split  it  in  halves,  and  stick  two 
cloves  into  it ; put  it  into  a saucepan 
with  a pint  and  a half  of  water,  a 
bunch  of  fresh  green  parsley  leaves, 
a teaspoonful  of  gelatine,  and  a little 
salt  and  cayenne.  A stick  or  two  of 
celery  or  a few  celer37  seeds,  or  a very 
small  pinch  of  dried  tarragon  may  be 
added,  if  they  are  at  hand,  as  they  will 
greatly  assist  the  flavor  of  the  stock. 
Boil  the  liquor  till  the  gelatine  is  dis- 
solved, strain  it  into  a bowl,  and  press 
the  onion  and  parsley  so  as  to  get  as 
much  of  the  goodness  out  of  them  as 
possible.  If  the  gelatine  was  good,  the 
stock  will  be  bright  and  clear.  Stir 
into  it  until  dissolved  a teaspoonful  of 
extract  of  meat,  and  it  will  be  ready 
for  use.  It  may  be  served  as  it  is, 
as  clear  soup,  or  a little  macaroni 
or  vermicelli  may  be  added  to  it, 


though  they  should  be  boiled  sepa- 
rately or  the  soup  will  not  be  clear — 
or  a few  vegetables  cut  as  for  Julienne 
soup  may  be  put  in. 

Extract  of  beef  dissolved  in  water 
will  frequently  answer  as  a substitute 
for  stock. 

Brown  Stock  is  made  from  beef 
alone,  or  in  combination  with  other 
meats. 

White  Stock  is  made  from  veal  alone, 
or  veal  and  chicken. 

Fish  Stock  is  made  from  the  bones, 
head,  and  trimmings — or  remnants — 
of  fish. 

Cream  Soups  are  generally  made 
without  meat,  of  milk  or  cream  com- 
bined with  vegetables  mashed,  and 
strained  to  a puree. 

If  soup  is  to  be  clarified,  take  the 
white  of  an  egg  and  the  crushed  shell, 
put  it  in  the  soup  while  cold,  and  then 
let  it  boil  for  five  minutes.  Then 
strain  through  a cloth.  In  high-grade 
cooking  minced  raw  beef  or  chicken 
is  added  duting  the  last  hour  of  boil- 
ing to  clarify  soup. 

If  the  brown  soup  is  wanted  of  a 
deep  color,  brown  the  vegetables  and 
a part  of  the  meat  before  putting  into 
the  pot,  or  a little  caramel  (burned 
sugar)  may  be  added.  If  the  soup  is 
to  be  thickened,  use  white  or  brown 
roux,  according  to  the  color  of  the 
soup. 

Amber  Soup. — Proceed  as  for  bouil- 
lon, but  a soup-bone,  a chicken,  and 
a slice  of  ham  is  to  be  added  the  first 
day.  Before  serving  put  in  a large 
table-spoonful  of  caramel  to  color. 

Apricot  Soup,  or  Bouillon. — Open, 
crack  the  stones,  and  take  out  the 
kernels.  Place  the  fruit  with  the 
kernels  over  a clear  fire,  and  allow 
them  to  simmer,  constantly  stirring, 
until  reduced  to  a jam.  Place  a 
colander  over  your  soup-tureen,  and, 
with  the  aid  of  a silver  spoon,  work 
the  pulp  through  until  nothing  re- 
mains but  the  skins  of  the  fruit.  If 
a large  tureen,  half  fill  with  undiluted 
red  wine,  adding  enough  sugar  to 
sweeten,  and  some  crushed  cinna- 

357 


Asparagus  Soup 


SOUPS 


Beef-tea 


mon.  If  this  soup  should  be  too 
thin  and  clear,  thicken  it  with  a little 
corn -starch,  and  add  some  bits  of 
toast  fried  in  butter. 

Asparagus  Soup.  — Cut  the  tops 
from  the  asparagus,  and  boil  the  rest ; 
rub  through  a sieve,  adding  a little 
salt ; warm  three  pints  of  soup  stock, 
add  a small  lump  of  butter,  then  add 
the  asparagus  pulp.  Boil  slowly  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  stirring  in  two  or 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  cream ; color 
the  soup  with  a teaspoonful  of  spinach 
crushed  in  a mortar,  to  which  add  a 
little  water,  and,  squeezing  the  iuice 
through  a cloth,  put  it  over  a good 
fire.  As  soon  as  it  looks  curdy, 
take  it  off  and  strain  the  liquor 
through  a sieve.  What  remains  on 
the  sieve  is  to  be  used  for  coloring 
the  soup.  Just  before  serving  the 
soup  add  the  asparagus  tops,  which 
have  been  separately  boiled. 

Barley  Soup. — Put  2 or  3 lbs.  of 
shin  of  beef  in  a gallon  of  water.  Add 
a teacupful  of  pearl  barley,  three  large 
onions,  cut  small,  a small  bunch  of 
parsley,  a few  potatoes,  sliced,  a little 
thyme,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 
Simmer  gently  for  three  or  four  hours, 
and  frequently  stir  it  to  prevent  the 
meat  from  burning.  It  should  not 
be  allowed  to  boil. 

Barley  Soup,  Cream  of.  — Three 
pints  of  white  stock,  an  onion,  sliced, 
a little  cinnamon  and  mace,  and  one 
teacupful  of  barley.  Allow  these  to 
cook  very  slowly  four  hours,  then 
rub  through  a sieve  and  add  one  pint 
of  boiling  milk  and  half  a pint  of 
cream.  Season  with  salt  and  cay- 
enne pepper.  The  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
beaten  light,  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  cream  added  to  the  boiling  milk 
just  before  the  soup  is  taken  from  the 
fire,  make  it  very  much  richer. 

Barley  Soupe  Maigre.  — Take  V\ 
lb.  of  pearl  barley;  boil  it  for  five 
hours  in  two  quarts  of  water,  which 
must  reduce  to  one  quart.  Pass 
through  a tamis ; season  with  salt 


and  pepper,  and  stir  in  ozs.  of 
fresh  butter,  or,  if  preferred,  some 
cream,  or  a gill  of  milk  into  which 
the  yolk  of  one  egg  has  been  stirred. 

A variety  can  be  made  by  putting 
in  some  chopped  parsley,  or  a few 
young  pease  (boiled),  so  as  to  have 
the  contrast  of  green  with  the  white 
puree. 

Bean  Soup  (dried).  — Kidney, 
mock-turtle,  or  rice,  or  field  beans. 
The  mock-turtle  is  best.  One  gallon 
of  cold  water,  one  quart  of  beans, 
soaked  overnight  in  luke-warm  water, 
2 lbs.  of  salt  pork,  cut  into  small 
pieces,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one 
red  - pepper  pod,  or  cayenne  pepper 
to  taste.  Put  the  water,  pork,  and 
beans  into  a closely  covered  soup-pot, 
and  boil  three  hours,  then  add  a 
head  of  celery  and  the  pepper.  Sim- 
mer an  hour  longer,  stir  in  the  sugar, 
strain,  and  serve  with  slices  of  lemon. 
Or  substitute  equal  parts  of  beef  and 
lean  ham  for  the  pork,  and  at  the  last 
moment  drop  small  force-meat  balls 
and  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs  into  the 
soup  tureen. 

Beef  Broth. — Put  2 lbs.  of  beef  into 
a kettle  with  two  quarts  and  a half  of 
cold  water,  a small  table-spoonful  of 
salt,  and  set  it  on  a good  fire.  As 
the  scum  collects  on  the  surface, 
skim  it  off ; when  it  begins  to  boil, 
add  about  a wineglassful  of  cold 
water  to  stop  the  boiling,  and  allow 
all  the  scum  to  come  on  the  surface, 
in  order  to  remove  it.  When  no  more 
of  it  comes  up  add  a small  turnip,  a 
medium-sized  carrot,  two  cloves,  an 
onion,  a stalk  of  celery,  a leek,  and 
a clove  of  garlic ; simmer  constantly 
for  about  six  hours,  then  add  a table- 
spoonful of  burned  sugar,  and  the 
broth  is  made. 

Beef-tea. — Take  1 lb.  of  gravy  beef 
and  cut  away  every  particle  of  fat. 
Mince  the  beef  with  a chopping-knife, 
and  set  it  on  the  fire  in  a sauce- 
pan with  three-quarters  of  a pint  of 
cold  water.  Press  it  with  a wooden 
spoon  till  it  boils.  Add  a salt-spoon- 


358 


Columbia  Public  Library 
(^lumbm.Mo. 

Black  Bean  Soup  SOUPS  Calf’s-foot  Consomm6 


ful  of  salt,  and  let  it  simmer  gently 
for  a quarter  of  an  hour ; then  pour 
the  tea  from  the  beef,  but  do  not  strain 
it,  and  serve  with  dry  toast  or  rice 
boiled  lightly,  as  for  curry.  Beef-tea 
should  not  be  too  clear ; a portion  of 
the  fibre  is  very  advantageous  and 
nutritive. 

Black  Bean  Soup.  — Soak  over- 
night in  two  quarts  of  water  one  pint 
of  black  beans.  In  the  morning 
drain  off  the  water  and  add  three 
quarts  of  boiling  water,  a small  piece 
of  lean  ham,  and  a bunch  of  herbs, 
a slice  of  turnip,  and  a carrot.  Put 
in  the  tureen  one  lemon,  sliced  thin, 
two  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  into  slices, 
and  one  gill  of  sherry  wine.  Season 
the  soup  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
strain  through  a coarse  sieve.  Lentils 
may  be  substituted  for  the  beans. 

Bonne  Femme  Soup. — When  the 
broth  is  either  poor  in  flavor  of  meat 
or  not  transparent,  very  good  soup 
can  be  made  by  adding  yolks  of  eggs 
stirred  up  in  milk  and  mixed  carefully 
with  the  broth.  Shreds  of  lettuce 
or  of  sorrel  are  added,  or  of  aspara- 
gus tips  or  French  beans.  The  egg 
mixture  should  not  be  added  till  the 
soup  is  poured  into  the  tureen ; or, 
if  added  to  the  soup  in  the  saucepan, 
it  must  be  very  carefully  stirred  and 
not  allowed  to  boil,  otherwise  it  will 
curdle. 

Bouillon. — Three  pounds  of  minced, 
fresh  beef,  without  bones,  in  three 
quarts  of  cold  water ; let  it  come  to  a 
boil,  and  then  simmer  for  five  hours, 
when  a small  onion,  half  a carrot,  a 
little  parsley  and  celery,  a bay-leaf, 
three  cloves  are  to  be  added.  Strain 
through  a sieve  into  an  earthen  bowl, 
and  the  next  day  take  off  the  fat, 
bring  the  stock  to  a boil  and  let  it 
simmer  fifteen  minutes,  adding  salt 
and  pepper.  Then  clarify  with  % 
lb.  of  fresh  beef,  minced,  and  strain 
through  a cloth.  Serve  in  cups. 

Bread  Soup,  or  Potage  Croutes 
au  pot.  — Cut  slices  of  roll  about  the 


size  of  a half-dollar ; fry  in  butter,  a 
golden  color,  drain,  then  moisten 
them  with  a little  stock  which  has 
been  boiled  nearly  to  glaze.  Let  the 
crusts  absorb  this,  and  then  begin  to 
dry.  Place  them  in  the  soup  tureen, 
and  pour  over  a good,  clear  soup.  It 
must  be  sent  to  table  without  delay, 
or  the  crusts  will  dissolve  and  break 
into  bits  when  taken  out. 

Broths. — See  recipes  in  this  division 
for  Beef  Broth,  French  Vegetable 
Broth,  Mutton  Broth,  Scotch  Broth, 
Brown  Soubise  Broth ; also  Clam 
Broth,  in  the  division  on  Fish. 

Brown  Soubise  Broth. — Peel  and 
slice  four  medium-sized  onions,  and 
put  them  in  a saucepan  with  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  butter  or  sweet 
dripping.  Cover  them,  and  let  the 
onions  cook  slowly  for  an  hour. 
Then  pour  in  slowly  three  pints  of  hot 
meat  or  vegetable  stock.  The  water 
in  which  cauliflower  has  been  boiled 
is  excellent  for  this.  Add  four  good- 
sized  slices  of  stale  bread,  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste ; cover  again,  and  let 
all  cook  together  very  slowly  for  an 
hour  longer.  Take  from  the  fire 
and  rub  through  a colander.  If  too 
thin,  boil  the  broth  down  to  the  con- 
sistency of  an  ordinary  cream  soup; 
if  too  thick,  it  may  be  thinned  with  a 
little  hot  milk. 

Cabbage  Soup. — Cut  up  the  largest 
leaves  and  put  them  into  a saucepan 
with  any  scraps  of  bones  of  fresh 
beef,  a few  slices  of  carrot,  an  onion 
cut  small,  and  let  all  boil  for  several 
hours  ; strain  off  the  liquor,  let  it  cool, 
and  take  off  the  fat.  Cut  up  the 
remainder  of  the  cabbage,  let  the 
liquor  boil  up,  throw  in  the  cabbage, 
boil  for  twenty  minutes  or  so ; put 
croutons  in  the  tureen  and  pour  the 
boiling  soup  over  them. 

Calf’s-foot  Consomme. — Boil  two 
calf’s  feet,  % lb.  of  veal,  a little  nut- 
meg, a few  blades  of  mace,  and  salt 
to  taste,  in  three  quarts  of  water,  till 
it  is  reduced  to  three  pints;  strain. 


359 


Calf’s-head  Soup 


SOUPS 


Chestnuts,  Cream  of 


take  off  the  fat,  and  place  on  the  ice 
to  cool. 

Calf’s  - head  Soup.  — Thoroughly 
clean  half  a calf’s  head  with  the  skin 
on,  and  set  it  to  stew  in  three  quarts 
of  cold  water,  to  which  add  an  onion 
stuck  with  twelve  cloves  and  a bunch 
of  soup  herbs ; skim  well,  and  let 
boil  slowly  for  two  hours;  then  take 
out  the  head  and  cut  it  into  square 
pieces.  Strain  the  soup  through 
a sieve;  thicken  it  with  a little  flour 
mixed  with  a table-spoonful  of  catsup 
or  sauce;  add  salt  to  taste,  and  let 
the  soup  boil  up  ; then  return  the  meat 
and  let  it  simmer  for  twenty  minutes ; 
just  before  serving  add  the  strained 
juice  of  a lemon.  Have  some  force- 
meat balls,  hot,  laid  at  the  bottom 
of  the  tureen,  and  pour  the  soup  over 
them. 

Note : — A calf’s  head  can  be  plain 
boiled  in  the  quantity  of  water  and 
served  in  the  usual  mode,  saving  the 
liquor,  to  which  add  the  head  bones 
when  removed  from  table;  the  soup 
can  be  used  on  the  following  day, 
pieces  of  the  cold  head  being  added. 

Canned  Roast-beef  Soup. — Empty 
the  contents  of  a can  into  your  soup- 
pot,  and  put  about  two  quarts  of  water 
(to  a 2-lb.  can  of  beef),  either  cold  or 
hot.  Peel  and  slice  an  onion  and  add 
salt,  and  let  boil  from  one  to  two 
hours ; strain  through  a colander, 
and  let  it  stand  long  enough  to  skim 
off  the  fat.  While  it  is  standing, 
chop  the  beef — the  best  part  of  it, 
say  about  a cupful — fine,  put  a table- 
spoonful of  butter  in  the  kettle,  add  an 
onion  and  about  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour,  and  let  the  flour  brown  in  the 
butter ; then  pepper  and  salt ; add  a 
spoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  pour 
in  the  soup,  and  add  the  chopped  beef, 
and  let  boil  up,  and  you  have  a good 
soup. 

Carrot  Purge.  — Select  six  good- 
sized  carrots,  peel  and  slice  them,  and 
put  them  with  a minced  onion  in  a 
saucepan  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  dripping — bacon  dripping,  if  you 


have  it.  Should  dripping  be  lack- 
ing, butter  may  be  used.  Cover  and 
cook  slowly  for  an  hour,  until  soft. 
Pour  in  then  slowly  three  pints  of 
weak  stock,  hot;  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Put  through  the  colander,  and  serve 
very  hot.  Croutons  should  also  be 
served  with  this. 

Celery  Soup.— Cut  the  white  part 
of  celery  into  pieces  about  an  inch 
long,  and  put  them  into  a saucepan 
with  a pint  of  good  white  stock,  2 
ozs.  of  butter,  % lb-  of  lean  ham,  and 
a lump  of  sugar.  Let  them  boil  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour;  put  in  with  them 
three  pints  more  of  stock,  a little  salt, 
and  a blade  of  mace.  Stew  gently 
for  an  hour,  then  press  the  soup 
through  a coarse  sieve.  Heat  it 
again,  pour  it  into  a tureen,  add  a 
pint  of  boiling  cream,  and  serve  im- 
mediately with  toasted  sippets.  If 
liked,  this  soup  may  be  thickened 
with  a little  flour. 

Cherry  Soup  or  Bouillon.  — Get 

some  freshly  plucked,  not  over-ripe 
cherries,  wipe  them  perfectly  dry, 
pick  off  the  stalks  and  take  out  the 
stones ; crack  these  carefully,  so  as, 
if  possible,  to  preserve  the  kernels 
whole.  Put  the  fruit  and  kernels  into 
a stewpan — a small,  bell -metal  pre- 
serving-kettle is  best — with  red  wine 
and  water,  half  and  half.  Add  some 
very  finely  pared  lemon -rind,  and 
stew  the  whole  gently  until  the  fruit 
is  entirely  melted.  Boil  in  the  soup 
a small  stick  of  cinnamon,  and  sweet- 
en it  to  taste.  Pass  it  through  a 
colander.  Put  it  back  in  the  stew- 
pan,  and  add  to  it  some  fried  crofitons. 

Chestnuts,  Cream  of. — Have  3 lbs. 
of  French  chestnuts;  make  a small 
incision  in  each.  Put  them  over  a 
brisk  fire  in  a frying-pan,  toss  them 
all  the  time  during  six  minutes ; 
while  hot  remove  both  shells  and 
skins,  put  them  in  a covered  sauce- 
pan with  two  quarts  of  good  broth, 
and  boil  them  forty  minutes.  Re- 
move from  the  saucepan,  cut  one 


360 


Chicken  Gumbo 


SOUPS 


Cock-a-leekie 


pint  of  the  chestnuts  in  small  squares, 
and  set  aside  for  future  use.  Pass 
the  remaining  ones  through  a strainer, 
pouring  in  some  of  the  broth  to  help 
the  sifting.  Put  back  the  puree  in  a 
clean  saucepan,  add  to  it  two  quarts 
of  good  chicken  consomme,  one  tea- 
spoonful of  salt,  one  salt-spoonful  of 
pepper;  boil  slowly  for  ten  minutes. 
Add  one  pint  of  good,  rich  cream ; 
boil  five  minutes  more,  and  remove 
from  the  fire.  Add  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  fresh  butter  and  the  square 
pieces  of  chestnuts.  Stir  gently  and 
serve  hot  in  cups. 

Chicken  Gumbo. — Flour  and  fry  a 
chicken  brown  after  the  usual  manner 
(though  it  need  not  be  a young  fowl). 
Fry  two  slices  of  breakfast  bacon 
or  salt  pork,  into  the  grease  of  which 
stir  a table-spoonful  of  sifted  flour ; 
have  a quart  of  okra  and  two  medium- 
sized onions,  cut  rather  fine ; fry  this 
in  the  bacon  grease  until  the  okra 
begins  to  “ rope”  (do  not  let  scorch). 
Then  turn  all — chicken,  gravy,  okra, 
onion,  and  bacon — into  a porcelain- 
lined  or  granite  soup-pot;  add  three 
quarts  of  hot  water ; cook  slowly  two 
hours ; stir  well  from  the  bottom  oc- 
casionally. A green  pepper  added 
gives  a nice  flavor;  some  also  add 
green  corn  and  tomatoes.  Serve  with 
dry  boiled  rice.  It  is  a dinner  in 
itself.  Okra  is  found  in  most  mar- 
kets. See  also  Gumbo  File  Soup. 

Chicken  Soup,  Delicate.  — Pluck 
and  wash  thoroughly  two  or  three 
young  chickens,  and  put  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  five  pints  of  good,  white, 
nicely  flavored  stock,  thoroughly 
freed  from  fat  and  cleared  from 
sediment.  A sliced  turnip  and  carrot 
may  be  put  with  them,  and  removed 
before  the  soup  is  thickened.  Let 
them  simmer  gently  for  nearly  an 
hour.  Remove  all  the  white  flesh, 
and  return  the  rest  of  the  meat  to  the 
soup,  and  simmer  once  more  for  a 
couple  of  hours.  Pour  a little  of  the 
boiling  liquid  over  % lb.  of  the  crumb 
of  bread,  and  when  it  is  well  soaked 
drain  it,  put  it  in  a mortar  with  the 


flesh  which  has  been  taken  from 
the  bones,  and  pound  it  to  a smooth 
paste,  adding,  by  degrees,  the  liquid. 
Flavor  with  salt,  cayenne,  and  a very 
little  pounded  mace ; press  the  mixture 
through  a sieve  and  boil  once  more, 
adding  one  pint  of  boiling  cream.  If 
the  soup  should  not  be  sufficiently 
thick,  a table -spoonful  of  arrow-root 
which  has  been  mixed  may  be  added 
very  smoothly  with  a little  cold  milk. 

Another  way  : — Cut  a chicken  into 
pieces  and  simmer  it  gently  in  a gal- 
lon of  water  until  the  meat  is  in  rags. 
Skim  well,  strain,  and  return  the  broth 
to  the  pot.  Add  a cupful  of  rice  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  parsley ; let  it  simmer 
for  another  hour.  Season  with  pepper 
and  salt ; add  a cupful  of  boiling  cream 
just  before  serving. 

Chicken  Soup  a l’Espagnole. — Make 
a clear,  strong  chicken  broth,  then  add 
either  rice  or  noodles,  and  before  re- 
moving from  the  fire  add  half  a tea- 
spoonful of  Spanish  saffron.  The  saf- 
fron must  be  the  real  Spanish  or  the 
effect  will  not  be  the  same  in  any  way. 

Chowders.  See  Fish. 

Clam  Soup.  — Wash  the  clams  and 
put  them  into  a saucepan  with  just 
sufficient  boiling  water  to  keep  them 
from  burning.  Boil  them  for  a few 
minutes,  and  when  the  shells  open 
and  the  juice  runs  out  take  the  clams 
from  the  shells  and  chop  them  small. 
Strain  the  liquor,  and  stir  into  it 
the  chopped  clams ; season  it  with 
pepper,  and  thicken  it  with  a little 
butter  rolled  in  flour,  and  let  it  boil  a 
quarter  of  an  hour.  Put  little  pieces 
of  toasted  bread  in  the  tureen  before 
pouring  the  soup  into  it.  The  flavor 
of  the  soup  may  be  varied  by  the 
addition  of  onions  or  celery,  or  a little 
milk  may  be  added,  or  the  yolks  of 
well-beaten  eggs. 

Cock-a-leekie. — Boil  a young  fowl 
in  two  quarts  of  white  stock  until  it 
is  tender.  Take  it  up  and  put  it  aside. 
Wash  two  bunches  of  fine  leeks. 
Trim  away  the  roots  and  part  of  the 


Consomme,  or  Clear  Soup  SOUPS 


Eel  Soup 


heads,  and  cut  them  into  one-inch 
lengths.  Put  them  into  the  broth, 
and  add  x/z  lb.  of  boiled  rice  and  a 
little  pepper  and  salt.  Boil  half  an 
hour.  Cut  the  fowl  into  neat  joints, 
put  it  into  the  soup,  boil  up,  and 
serve  very  hot.  The  above  is  true 
cock-a-leekie  soup.  The  soup  bear- 
ing this  name  is,  however,  as  often 
served  without  the  fowl  as  with  it. 
Time,  one  hour  and  a half. 

Consomme,  or  Clear  Soup.  — The 

term  " consomme  ” implies  a soup 
very  highly  flavored  with  the  juices 
of  meat  and  poultry ; not  highly 
colored,  but  clear,  bright,  transpar- 
ent. The  broth  has  been  strained 
through  a tamis;  has  been  allowed 
to  cool ; the  fat  has  been  carefully 
removed,  and  it  has  been  clarified  by 
fresh  meat  or  the  white  and  shells 
of  an  egg,  and  has  gone  through  the 
simmering  process,  straining,  and 
cooling. 

Consomme,  or  Extraordinary  Soup. 

— Six  quarts  of  water,  4 lbs.  of  lean 
beef,  two  old  hens,  two  carrots,  two 
turnips,  two  onions,  two  leeks,  one 
bunch  of  fine  herbs.  Let  it  simmer 
slowly  for  eight  hours,  or  till  it  is  re- 
duced to  two  quarts,  observing  the 
same  rule  as  to  skimming  and  strain- 
ing ; and  use  for  dainty  appetites, 
with  any  of  the  garnishes  for  soups, 
such  as  quenelles,  etc. 

Corn  Soup.  — To  each  quart  of 
young  corn  cut  from  the  cob  allow 
three  pints  of  water.  Boil  until  the 
grains  are  tender.  Take  2 ozs.  of 
sweet  butter,  mixed  smooth  with  one 
table-spoonful  of  flour ; stir  the  butter 
into  the  soup,  and  let  it  boil  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes  longer.  Just  before 
taking  out  of  the  pot,  beat  up  an  egg 
and  stir  into  it,  with  salt  and  pepper 
to  your  taste. 

Crab  Soup.  — Take  one  quart  of 
milk,  and  with  it  put  a small  onion, 
grated,  and  a little  parsley,  chopped 
fine;  then  add  the  meat  of  six  crabs 
(about  one  cupful),  and  boil  all  to- 


gether five  minutes.  Cream  one  table- 
spoonful of  flour  and  one  of  butter 
together,  moistening  with  a little  hot 
milk,  and  then  add  to  the  soup,  with 
half  a pint  of  cream,  one  teaspoonful 
of  ground  mace,  the  chopped  yolks 
of  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  a little  salt 
and  cayenne  pepper.  Let  all  boil  for 
five  minutes,  and  serve.  Canned 
crabs  may  be  used. 

Crawfish  Soup,  or  Potage  Bisque. — 

Take  fifty  crawfish  (or  one  hundred 
prawns,  if  crawfish  cannot  be  obtain- 
ed). Remove  the  gut  from  the  centre 
fin  of  the  tail,  or  it  will  make  the  soup 
bitter.  Shell  the  fish  and  keep  the 
tails  whole.  Pound  the  shells  with  4 
ozs.  of  fresh  butter,  the  crumb  of  a 
French  roll,  and  three  anchovies,  and 
put  them  in  a stewpan  with  two  quarts 
of  fish  stock,  4 ozs.  of  washed  rice,  a 
dessert-spoonful  of  salt,  a teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  and  an  onion  stuck  with 
three  cloves.  Simmer  for  two  hours. 
Put  the  pounded  meat,  but  not  the 
tails,  into  the  soup,  simmer  again, 
then  press  the  whole  through  a sieve. 
Make  the  soup  hot  before  serving  it, 
but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Five  minutes 
before  it  is  taken  from  the  fire  put  in 
the  tails  whole.  Serve  with  crofitons. 
A tumblerful  of  wine  is  an  improve- 
ment to  this  soup. 

Cream  Soups  are  usually  made 
of  the  purees  of  fresh  vegetables 
thickened  with  butter,  cream,  and 
yolks  of  raw  eggs.  Vegetable  stock 
is  used  for  Lenten  soups,  meat  stock 
for  many  others.  See  Puree,  page  320. 

Croutons. — Bread  cut  into  small 
dice  and  fried  in  clarified  fat  until 
brown  and  crisp.  They  are  to  be 
added  to  the  soup  just  before  serving. 

Eel  Soup. — To  1 lb.  of  eel  allow  a 
quart  of  water.  Cut  up  2 lbs.  of  eel 
and  fry  to  a light  brown  in  butter  in 
the  stewpan;  pour  over  two  quarts  of 
water,  a crust  of  bread,  a sliced  onion, 
with  mace,  pepper,  and  sweet  herbs ; 
cover  and  simmer  slowly  till  the  eel 
will  easily  slip  from  the  bone;  take 


362 


Egg  Soup 


SOUPS  Fruit  Soups  or  Bouillons 


out  the  fish,  remove  the  bones,  which 
return  to  the  soup,  and  keep  the 
flesh  hot;  let  the  soup  simmer  for  an 
hour,  adding  a carrot  scraped  to  it, 
then  rub  down  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  flour  in  cream,  if  you  have  it ; if 
not,  use  milk ; thicken  and  strain  the 
soup,  toast  a thin  slice  of  bread,  cut 
it  in  slips  or  dice,  lay  the  fish  on  it, 
and  serve  the  soup  over  it. 

Egg  Soup  (Danish  recipe). — Mix  a 
dessert-spoonful  of  flour  with  a little 
cold  milk.  Then  boil  a pint  of  milk, 
with  vanilla  to  flavor.  Thicken  it 
with  the  flour,  and  let  it  boil  up; 
strain.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
and  whip  the  whites  to  snow.  Pour 
the  yolks  into  the  thickened  milk, 
with  sugar  to  taste,  and  keep  all  well 
turned.  Boil  the  snow  in  a pan  of 
water,  and  send  the  soup  to  table  with 
the  boiled  whites  floating  on  the  top. 
Serve  with  biscuits.  This  soup  is 
good  in  the  nursery  or  sick-room, 
being  digestible  and  pleasant  as  well 
as  nourishing. 

English  Stew. — Stew  for  two  hours 
3 lbs.  of  rump  of  beef,  cut  into  small 
pieces  and  free  from  fat,  in  a quart  of 
good  stock  or  gravy.  Season  with 
a little  cayenne  and  salt ; then  add  a 
dessert-spoonful  of  lemon-juice,  the 
grated  rind  of  one  large  lemon,  a 
table  - spoonful  of  rice -flour,  evenly 
mixed  with  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
mushroom  catsup,  or  sauce  to  taste. 
Stew  for  a quarter  of  an  hour,  when 
the  dish  will  be  ready  to  serve.  This 
dish  may  be  improved  by  a glass  or 
two  of  port  or  white  wine,  or  with  any 
well-flavored  store  sauce.  It  may  be 
also  garnished  with  sippets  of  fried 
bread,  force-meat  balls,  or  young 
cucumbers.  A good  cook  will  know 
how  to  vary  English  stew  in  twenty 
different  ways,  by  introducing  mush- 
rooms, green  pease,  rice,  half-boiled 
new  potatoes,  spring  carrots,  or  curry 
powder.  • 

Fish  Curry  Soup.  — Put  the  fol- 
lowing ingredients  into  a saucepan  : 
Four  onions,  fried  in  salad  oil  a light 


brown ; add  six  tomatoes  cut  into 
slices,  a bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  a 
small  onion,  four  cloves,  etc.,  three 
bay-leaves,  a wineglassful  of  white 
wine,  pepper  and  salt ; add  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  curry  powder  and  four 
of  flour  mixed  with  cold  veal  stock, 
about  one  quart  or  three  pints.  Let 
the  whole  boil  together  thirty  min- 
utes ; then  throw  your  fish  in,  cut  in 
pieces  or  slices ; as  soon  as  the  fish  is 
cooked,  take  out  the  bunch  of  herbs 
and  serve  some  crusts  of  bread  or 
toast  in  it.  Any  firm -fleshed  fish 
can  be  used  for  this  soup. 

French  Beef  Soup. — Cut  into  small 
pieces  and  remove  all  the  fat  from 
3 Yz  lbs.  of  beef,  and  add  a large 
knuckle  - bone  that  has  been  well 
broken.  Cover  with  cold  water,  using 
five  quarts  at  least.  Heat  slowly, 
and  as  soon  as  it  is  boiling  skim  care- 
fully. When  it  has  been  thoroughly 
skimmed,  add  one  bay-leaf,  one  red 
pepper  or  one  dozen  whole  black 
peppers,  one  can  of  tomatoes  and 
two  leeks,  a few  cloves,  and  one  large 
onion,  fried.  Simmer  three  to  four 
hours.  Before  taking  it  from  the 
fire  add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and 
put  in  two  lumps  of  sugar  burned  in  a 
large  spoon.  Let  the  soup  boil  rapidly 
one  minute  and  then  strain. 

French  Vegetable  Broth. — Peel  and 
cut  into  small  dice  a quarter  of  a 
good-sized  white  cabbage,  a carrot, 
a turnip,  six  stalks  of  celery,  and  an 
onion.  Put  them  into  a frying-pan 
with  two  table  - spoonfuls  of  butter 
or  good  dripping,  cover  them  closely, 
and  set  them  at  the  side  of  the  stove 
for  half  an  hour.  They  must  cook 
very  slowly.  At  the  end  of  the  half- 
hour  pour  upon  them  a pint  of  hot 
water,  and  in  this  let  them  simmer 
two  hours,  or  until  tender.  Season 
then  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper, 
add  a pint  more  boiling  water,  boil  up 
sharply,  and  take  from  the  fire.  Serve 
croutons  of  fried  bread  with  this  soup. 

Fruit  Soups  or  Bouillons.  — Put  in 
a porcelain  kettle  one  quart  of  strained 


363 


Giblet  Soup 


SOUPS 


Green-pea  Soup 


fruit-juice,  and  when  it  becomes  hot 
add  three  teaspoonfuls  of  arrow- 
root  dissolved  in  a little  cold  water. 
Cook  all  until  clear,  then  stir  in  a 
cupful  of  sugar,  and  as  soon  as  the 
sugar  is  dissolved  remove  from  the 
fire,  add  a table  - spoonful  of  wine 
or  brandy,  and  turn  into  a dish  to 
cool.  Serve  in  claret-glasses,  with  a 
few  tiny  pieces  of  ice  in  each.  To  be 
eaten  with  a spoon. 

Giblet  Soup. — Take  goose,  duck,  or 
chicken  giblets.  Clean  them  and  cut 
the  gizzard  into  small  pieces  about  half 
an  inch  square,  or  it  will  not  be  ten- 
der until  the  rest  is  in  rags.  Put  all 
into  a stewpan  with  a slice  of  lean 
ham  cut  into  dice,  and  a small  piece  of 
butter.  Fry  the  giblets  a few  min- 
utes ; then  add  to  them  two  quarts  of 
good  stock,  an  onion  stuck  with  five 
or  six  cloves,  two  or  three  sprigs  of 
marjoram,  thyme,  or  parsley,  a tea- 
spoonful of  salt,  half  a teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  and  half  a drachm  of  bruised 
celery  seeds  tied  in  a muslin  bag. 
Simmer  gently  for  two  hours,  then 
take  out  the  giblets  and  put  them 
into  a tureen.  Strain  the  soup,  and 
thicken  it  with  I oz.  of  butter,  mixed 
smoothly  over  the  fire  with  a table- 
spoonful of  flour  until  slightly  brown- 
ed but  not  burned,  and  added  grad- 
ually to  the  liquid.  Let  it  boil  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  then  return  the 
giblets  to  it  for  a few  minutes  to  get 
hot,  and  serve  with  toasted  sippets. 
Giblet  soup  is  very  good  for  ordinary 
domestic  use.  The  giblets  should  be 
tender,  but  not  too  much  boiled.  Be- 
fore putting  them  into  the  tureen 
they  should  be  all  cut  into  small 
pieces. 

Gravy,  Brown,  Soup  (made  from 
bones  and  trimmings). — Take  the 
bones  of  dressed  meat — beef  is  the 
best — which  weighed  before  cooking 
about  12  lbs.  Break  them  up  into 
small  pieces  and  put  these  into  a 
saucepan  with  five  quarts  of  cold 
water.  Bring  the  liquid  to  a boil, 
skim  carefully,  and  simmer  gently 
but  continuously  for  six  hours. 


Strain  through  a sieve,  and  leave 
the  soup  until  the  next  day.  Re- 
move the  fat  from  the  top,  leave  any 
sediment  there  may  be  at  the  bottom, 
and  pour  the  soup  gently  into  a clean 
saucepan,  with  two  carrots,  one  tur- 
nip, three  onions,  all  sliced,  a head 
of  celery,  or  half  a drachm  of  pounded 
celery  seed,  tied  in  muslin,  a bundle 
of  sweet  herbs,  and  eight  pepper- 
corns. Bring  it  to  a boil,  skim  it 
carefully,  and  add  a dessert-spoonful 
of  salt,  which  will  assist  the  scum  in 
rising.  Draw  it  to  the  side  of  the 
fire  and  simmer  gently  for  two  hours. 
Strain  it  two  or  three  times,  and,  to 
clear  it,  stir  into  it  when  hot  the 
whites  of  two  eggs  whisked  thor- 
oughly  and  mixed  with  four  tea- 
spoonfuls of  cold  water,  and  after- 
wards with  a little  of  the  soup.  Beat 
this  into  the  soup  over  the  fire,  and 
keep  whisking  till  it  boils.  Skim 
carefully  till  it  is  quite  clear.  Add 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  extract  of 
meat,  and,  if  necessary,  a little  brown- 
ing; but  great  care  must  be  taken 
with  this,  or  the  flavor  of  the  soup 
will  be  spoiled.  This  soup  is  whole- 
some, nourishing,  and  cheap.  It  is 
a good  plan  to  brown  a small  quantity 
of  meat — say  % lb.  of  beef  and  Y\  lb. 
of  veal — draw  out  the  juice  with  a 
little  cold  water,  and  then  simmer 
these  with  the  bones.  The  soup  will 
keep  better  if  vegetables  are  not  boil- 
ed in  it  until  it  is  about  to  be  used. 
It  should  be  made  the  day  before  it 
is  wanted  for  use. 

Green-pea  Soup.  — One  onion,  cut 

into  halves,  with  a quart  of  pease  in 
a saucepan,  with  hot  water  enough 
to  cover  them,  and  cook  until  the 
pease  are  soft.  Remove  the  onion  and 
press  the  pease  through  a colander. 
Boil  in  a saucepan  one  pint  of  chicken 
or  veal  stock,  and  add  the  mashed 
pease  to  it.  Rub  together  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  butter  and  one  of  flour, 
moisten  with  a little  cold  milk,  and 
add  it  to  the  soup  with  one  cup  of 
milk  and  one  of  whipped  cream ; or 
the  whole  mixture  may  be  beaten 
with  a whip  just  before  turning  into 


364 


Green-pea  and  Tomato  Pur6e  SOUPS 


Julienne  Soup 


the  tureen.  After  adding  the  milk, 
season  well  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  allow  the  soup  to  boil  up  once 
before  serving. 

Green-pea  and  Tomato  Purde  with- 
out Meat. — Boil  together  in  a quart 
of  water  a pint  of  pease  and  a half 
can  of  tomatoes,  with  half  an  onion. 
When  these  vegetables  are  very  soft, 
rub  through  a colander,  and  return 
them,  with  the  liquid  in  which  they 
were  boiled,  to  the  fire.  Rub  together 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  and  one 
of  flour,  and  stir  into  the  boiling 
soup  until  it  thickens.  Add  a scant 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Gumbo  Fil6  with  Oysters. — Take  a 
large,  fat  chicken  and  a slice  of  ham, 
boil  in  two  quarts  of  water,  and  sea- 
son to  taste.  Take  the  liquor  of  fifty 
oysters  and  pour  it  into  the  bouil- 
lon. When  the  chicken  is  cooked, 
take  it  out  of  the  soup ; strain  the 
soup  through  a colander,  and  just 
before  serving  throw  in  the  oysters, 
and  let  them  cook  five  minutes  till 
they  are  plump;  take  the  soup -pot 
from  the  fire  and  stir  in  an  after-din- 
ner coffee- spoonful  of  the  file  pow- 
der and  serve  immediately.  Serve 
with  boiled  rice.  The  file  powder 
can  be  obtained  from  the  prominent 
grocers. 

Italian  Pastes,  Soups  with.  — 

Macaroni  is  to  be  broken  into  even 
lengths  of  one  to  two  inches,  ver- 
micelli is  to  be  broken  into  even 
lengths  of  one  and  a half  to  three 
inches.  Italian  paste  letters  may  be 
used  as  a variety.  Allow  a table- 
spoonful of  vermicelli  or  macaroni 
to  each  guest ; or,  by  weight,  oz.  to 
each  plate  of  soup.  Blanch  in  hot 
water  and  drain;  then  simmer  in  the 
stock.  These  pastes  differ  in  the 
time  they  require  to  swell,  and  ex- 
perience only  can  fix  the  time  re- 
quired for  that  purpose.  Rice  and 
semolina  may  be  used  in  the  same 
way.  Tapioca  in  pale,  delicate-flavor- 
ed  stock,  boiled  so  as  to  dissolve,  gives 


a peculiarly  nourishing  soup,  and  is 
very  wholesome  and  palatable. 

Jenny  Lind  Soup. — Take  2 ozs.  of 
pearl  sago,  half  a pint  of  water,  one 
quart  of  stock  or  veal  broth,  half  a 
pint  of  cream,  and  four  yolks  of  eggs. 
The  sago  must  be  thoroughly  washed 
and  simmered  in  the  water  till  it  is 
transparent  and  tender.  It  is  then 
to  be  mixed  into  the  boiling  stock, 
or  broth,  and  the  cream.  Lastly, 
the  yolks  are  to  be  stirred  in.  The 
best  way  to  produce  a smooth  soup 
is  to  stir  the  eggs  one  by  one  into  a 
teacupful  of  the  broth,  and  then  stir 
that  into  the  soup.  The  cream  may 
be  omitted.  The  stock  may  be  made 
without  vegetables,  if  for  an  invalid. 

Julienne  Soup.  — Take  three  car- 
rots, three  turnips,  the  white  part  of  a 
head  of  celery,  three  onions,  and  three 
leeks.  Wash  and  dry  the  vegetables, 
and  cut  them  into  thin  shreds,  which 
should  be  not  more  than  one  inch  in 
length.  Place  the  shreds  in  a stew- 
pan  with  2 ozs.  of  butter  and  a .small 
pinch  of  pounded  sugar,  and  stir 
them  over  a slow  fire  until  slightly 
browned.  Pour  over  them  three 
quarts  of  clear  stock  and  simmer 
gently  for  an  hour,  or  until  the  vege- 
tables are  tender.  Carefully  remove 
the  scum  and  grease,  and  half  an  hour 
before  the  soup  is  done  enough  add 
two  lumps  of  sugar,  with  two  pinches 
of  salt,  and  two  pinches  of  pepper, 
if  required,  two  cabbage  lettuces, 
twelve  leaves  of  sorrel,  and  twelve 
leaves  of  chervil,  cut  in  the  same 
way  as  the  other  vegetables,  after 
being  immersed  in  boiling  water  for  a 
minute.  Boil  half  an  hour  longer, 
skim  carefully,  and  serve.  Send 
bread  fried  in  dice  to  table,  and  serve 
as  hot  as  possible.  It  must  be  re- 
membered that  quick  boiling  would 
thicken  and  spoil  this  soup,  which 
ought  to  be  a clear  brown.  In  sum- 
mer-time French  beans,  green  pease, 
and  asparagus  tops  may  be  put  in, 
but  they  must  be  boiled  separately 
and  added  a few  minutes  before  serv- 
ing. Julienne  vegetables  already  cut 


365 


Lentil  Soup 


SOUPS  Mile.  Francoise’s  Poule-au-Pot 


and  dried  can  be  bought,  but  they  are 
inferior  in  flavor  to  fresh  vegetables. 

Lentil  Soup.  — Put  a breakfast- 
cupful  of  lentils  to  soak  all  night  in 
cold  water.  Drain  them  and  put 
them  into  a stewpan  with  three  pints 
of  water  or  stock,  if  it  is  to  be  had. 
The  liquor  in  which  pork  or  bacon  has 
been  boiled  is  excellent  for  the  pur- 
pose. Put  with  them  six  or  eight 
sticks  of  celery,  two  onions,  one 
carrot,  one  turnip,  a bunch  of  soup 
herbs,  and  a crust  of  stale  bread. 
Bring  the  liquor  to  a boil  and  care- 
fully remove  the  thick,  dark  scum 
that  rises  to  the  surface,  and  throw 
in  a little  cold  water  once  or  twice 
to  assist  the  scum  in  rising.  As 
soon  as  the  soup  reaches  the  boiling- 
point,  draw  the  saucepan  back  and 
simmer  gently  for  about  four  hours, 
or  until  the  lentils  are  perfectly  soft. 
Turn  the  whole  upon  a wire  sieve, 
pick  out  the  bouquet  garni,  and  rub 
everything  else  patiently  through 
the  sieve  into  a bowl.  The  pulp  will 
go  through  more  easily  if  a little 
of  the  liquor  is  kept  hot  and  is  em- 
ployed to  moisten  it  occasionally. 
Boil  the  soup  again  before  sending 
it  to  table,  and  if  too  thick  add  a little 
water ; the  addition  of  boiling  milk 
will  be  considered  an  improvement 
by  many.  The  soup  must  be  stirred 
frequently  while  boiling,  or  it  will 
burn.  Lentils  are  in  themselves  so 
nourishing  that  meat  stock  is  not 
needed. 

Lettuce  Soup.  — Chop  up  a soft 
green  lettuce,  and  stew  it  with  a little 
water  or  broth,  some  butter,  sugar, 
and  a few  drops  of  tarragon  vinegar 
(really  a few  drops ; not  more  than 
thirty).  Keep  stirring,  and  do  not 
let  it  burn ; but  do  not  mind  that  the 
lettuces  lose  their  green  color.  Add 
a teaspoonful  of  flour,  with  pepper 
and  salt.  Break  an  egg  over  it  all, 
and  pour  on  some  weak  broth.  Serve 
with  some  dice  of  bread  fresh  cut  into 
the  tureen,  and  add  a wineglassful  of 
cream  just  before  serving. 

Another  way  : — Prepare  twelve  cab- 


bage lettuces  by  removing  all  the 
outer  leaves.  Shred  the  hearts  very 
finely,  and  saute  them  in  oil  or  butter. 
Drain  them,  and  put  them  in  a quart 
of  veal  or  beef  stock,  or  rabbit,  fowl, 
or  pigeon  liquor,  being  careful  that 
all  fat  and  sediment  is  removed. 
Simmer  till  *done.  Flavor  with  pep- 
per, salt,  and  nutmeg,  and  serve  over 
sippets  of  toasted  bread. 

Lobster  Soup  or  Bisque.  — The 

proportions  are  two  3 - lb.  lobsters, 
3 ozs.  of  butter,  two  quarts  of  broth, 
and  8 ozs.  of  bread,  toasted.  Boil 
the  lobsters,  and,  after  having  re- 
moved the  dark-bluish  veins  and  the 
stomachs,  cut  the  heads  off  about  half 
an  inch  back  of  the  eyes ; put  the 
flesh  of  the  tails  aside,  and  pound  the 
rest  well — the  shell,  small  and  large 
claws,  and  all  that  is  in  the  body- 
shell.  It  is  then  put  into  a sauce- 
pan with  the  butter  and  stirred  until 
the  butter  is  melted ; then  a quart 
of  broth  is  added,  and  the  whole 
simmered  for  about  fifteen  minutes. 
The  mixture  is  turned  into  a strainer, 
all  the  liquid  is  pressed  out  of  it,  and 
is  set  back  on  the  fire  with  the  toasted 
bread  for  a few  minutes.  The  whole 
is  then  turned  into  a colander  and 
forced  through  with  a potato-masher. 
About  another  quart  of  broth  is 
added,  a few  minutes’  boiling  is  given, 
and  it  is  ready  to  use.  Put  into  the 
soup-tureen  some  bread  cut  into  dice 
and  fried  in  butter,  and  also  the  coral 
part  of  the  lobsters,  chopped,  and 
about  % lb.  of  the  flesh  of  the  lob- 
sters, also  cut  into  dice.  The  flesh 
of  the  tails  is  made  into  lobster  salad. 

Macaroni  Soup.  See  Nouilles  Soup. 

Mile.  Francoise’s  Poule-au-Pot. 

— Take  3 lbs.  of  beef,  a fowl,  two 
cabbages,  pea.se,  beans,  and  vegeta- 
bles — carrots,  onion,  celery,  turnip, 
parsley,  a clove  of  garlic,  etc. — 1 lb. 
of  raw  ham,  a Frankfort  sausage, 
Yz  lb.  of  bacon.  Put  the  beef  in  first, 
without  the  vegetables,  start  the 
decoction,  skim,  and  then  put  in  the 
fowl.  When  half  cooked  take  out 


366 


Meagre  Soup 


SOUPS 


Mock-turtle  Soup 


the  fowl  and  put  in  all  the  vegetables, 
having  previously  put  the  following 
stuffing  into  the  cabbages : Bread- 

crumbs, six  eggs,  l/\  lb.  of  bacon, 
six  chickens'  livers  or  the  equivalent 
in  calf’s  liver,  ham,  parsley,  onions, 
a grain  of  garlic;  chop  all  this  up 
very  fine,  stuff  it  into  the  heart  of  the 
cabbages,  and  bind  the  leaves  up 
with  string  before  putting  them  into 
the  pot.  Now  take  a stewpan  and 
put  into  it  some  bacon  cut  up  into 
small  pieces,  and  then  the  half- 
cooked  fowl,  and  then  brown  the 
whole  with  butter.  Make  a brown 
sauce  with  butter  and  flour,  enough 
to  just  cover  the  fowl  in  the  stewpan  ; 
add  a little  uncooked  rice,  a dozen 
boiled  onions,  and  let  it  stew  until 
the  rice  bursts.  Serve  with  the 
addition  of  a little  nutmeg  and  cay- 
enne, or  with  Hungarian  paprika. 

_ The  soup  and  the  beef  of  this  poule- 
au-pot,  served  together  with  all  the 
vegetables,  constitute  the  “ petite 
mar  mite  ” that  has  been  popular  in 
Parisian  restaurants  for  many  years. 
In  many  restaurants  little  earthen 
marmites,  containing  one  or  two  por- 
tions, are  served  on  the  tables,  and 
in  each  mar  mite  is  a small  frag- 
ment of  beef,  pieces  of  all  the  vege- 
tables, and  a portion  of  the  ’ clear 
bouillon. 

Meagre  Soup  ( Soupe  Maigre.)  — 
Wash  thoroughly  all  green  vegeta- 
bles and  throw  them  into  cold  water. 
The  proportions  of  each  must  depend 
very  much  upon  what  you  can  get. 
The  soup,  when  finished,  should  be 
of  the  thickness  of  ordinary  pea  soup. 
Take  five  or  six  handfuls  of  common 
sorrel,  two  large  lettuces  from  which 
the  withered  leaves  only  have  been 
removed,  a small  bunch  of  chervil, 
and  two  or  three  sprigs  of  parsley. 
Shred  all  these  very  fine.  Slice  and 
chop  onions,  carrots,  and  leeks  very 
fine.  Fry  the  vegetables  till  lightly 
browned  in  butter,  put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  boiling  water,  and 
add  a bay-leaf,  a sprig  of  thyme,  and 
a good  lump  of  butter.  Season  with 
pepper  and  salt.  Stir  from  time  to 


time,  to  prevent  any  of  the  ingredients 
from  sticking  to  the  bottom.  When 
they  are  thoroughly  cooked,  press 
the  vegetables  through  a sieve.  If 
necessary,  add  more  water  to  the 
pulp,  and  boil  the  soup  again  before 
serving.  The  soup  may  be  further 
thickened  either  with  bread  or  boiled 
potatoes,  steeped  in  a little  of  the 
liquor,  and  then  broken  up  and  mixed 
with  the  soup. 

Mock-crab  Bisque. — One-half  can 
tomatoes,  one  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
one  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch,  six 
raw  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  minced 
parsley,  one  small  onion,  sliced.  Stew 
the  tomatoes  and  onion  for  twenty 
minutes,  then  press  through  a sieve ; 
return  to  the  fire,  and  add  the  butter, 
parsley,  and  corn-starch  mixed  with 
a little  water ; when  boiling,  remove 
from  fire  and  add  the  eggs,  beaten 
thoroughly ; serve  on  toasted  bread. 

Mock-turtle  Soup.  — As  its  name 
implies,  it  is  an  imitation  of  turtle 
soup.  The  essential  point  in  mock- 
turtle  must  be  the  “lumpy  delight” 
furnished  by  calf’s  head ; and  the 
choice  of  the  head  should  be  a matter 
of  some  importance.  It  should  be 
large,  firm,  and  fat,  full  of  brain, 
with  good  tongue  and  cheeks.  As 
the  preparation  of  this  soup  will 
occupy  time,  this  recipe  will  run  in 
the  order  of  arrangement.  First, 
clean  and  blanch  a calf’s  head  with 
the  skin  on.  Take  out  the  brains, 
and  put  the  head  into  eight  or  nine 
quarts  of  spring  water.  Bring  it 
gently  to  a boil,  skim  frequently,  and 
keep  it  simmering  a couple  of  hours, 
by  which  time  it  should  be  sufficiently 
done  to  remove  the  bones  easily. 
Second,  return  the  bones  to  the  pot 
and  add  3 lbs.  of  fillet  of  veal,  3 lbs. 
of  leg  of  beef,  cut  into  an  inch  and  a 
half  square  pieces,  3 lbs.  of  delicate 
pickled  pork,  also  cut  into  small 
pieces,  three  or  four  slices  of  good, 
sound  old  ham  for  flavoring,  four 
large  onions,  sliced,  three  heads  of  cel- 
ery, a large  bunch  of  savory  herbs, 
parsley,  a few  leaves  of  green  basil. 


367 


Mulligatawny  with  Chicken  SOUPS  Mulligatawny  Soup,  Vegetable 


lemon,  thyme,  marjoram,  two  bay- 
leaves,  and  stew  gently,  with  good, 
careful  skimming,  three  full  hours, 
adding  stock  to  keep  up  the  required 
quantity  of  soup.  Third,  while  the 
stock  is  boiling,  cut  from  the  head 
the  skin  and  fat  that  adheres  to  it 
into  nice,  sizable  pieces,  and  cut  the 
tongue  into  cubes  of  an  inch  square, 
the  fleshy  parts  of  the  head  into 
diamonds,  dice,  or  any  other  shape. 
Make  brain-balls,  or  any  other  force- 
meat, or  egg -balls.  Fourth,  when 
the  stock  has  been  sufficiently  boiled, 
strain  it  from  the  bones,  etc.  (retaining 
only  rich  bits  of  meat),  into  a large, 
clean  stewpan ; add  the  skin,  tongue, 
etc.,  and  a seasoning  of  cayenne  and 
mace,  mushroom  catsup,  or  any  oth- 
er seasoning  that  may  be  desirable. 
Thicken  with  4 ozs.  of  butter,  kneaded 
in  as  much  brown  flour,  and  simmer 
gently  for  an  hour,  if  the  calf’s  head, 
etc.,  require  it;  but  twenty  minutes 
before  serving  add  half  a pint  of 
sherry,  and  the  brain  or  other  balls. 
Fifth,  the  best  mode  is  to  place  the 
pieces  of  head,  etc.,  at  the  bottom  of 
the  tureen,  and  strain  the  soup 
through  a tammy-cloth  ; but  if  due 
care  has  been  taken  in  the  second 
stage  of  the  preparation,  and  the 
skimming  has  been  constant  and 
careful,  this  need  not  be  resorted  to. 
Sixth,  serve  with  lemon  on  a plate, 
as  some  persons  like  the  soup  a little 
acid.  (For  half  a calf’s  head  take 
half  the  ingredients.)  This  recipe 
is  for  four  quarts. 

Mulligatawny  with  Chicken. — To 

make  chicken  mulligatawny  without 
any  other  stock,  cut  the  fowl  up  in 
small  pieces,  and  fry  these  with  a 
sliced  onion  in  a table-spoonful  of 
butter  in  a stewpan.  Take  the 
chicken  up  and  stir  into  the  butter 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  curry  powder; 
cook  butter,  curry  paste,  and  onions 
together  for  about  five  minutes ; then 
stir  in  two  pints  of  warm  water,  add 
the  pieces  of  chicken,  and  if  they  are 
not  covered  add  more  water.  Allow 
this  mixture  to  come  to  a boil,  then 
simmer  by  the  side  of  the  fire  very 


gently  for  thirty  minutes.  During 
this  time  pound  2 lbs.  of  sweet  al- 
monds in  a mortar  with  a small  cupful 
of  milk  and  a pinch  of  sugar.  Let 
it  stand  till  required.  When  the 
chicken  is  quite  tender  stir  in  a dessert- 
spoonful of  chutney,  a teaspoonful 
of  red-currant  jelly,  and  a teaspoonful 
of  lime-juice.  Simmer  for  five  min- 
utes, and  then  strain  the  whole  off 
into  a bowl.  Pick  out  the  best  bits 
of  chicken  and  put  them  on  one 
side.  Skim  the  surface  of  the  liquor, 
and  when  perfectly  free  from  grease 
thicken  it  by  adding  a table-spoonful 
of  butter  and  one  of  flour,  stirring  it 
into  the  soup  slowly.  Strain  in  last 
of  all,  through  muslin,  the  almond 
milk.  Cocoanut  milk  can  be  used 
instead  of  almond,  if  preferred.  Al- 
low the  soup  to  come  to  a boil,  and 
then  serve. 

Mulligatawny  Soup,  Vegetable. — 

Take  a few  squash  and  middle-sized 
cucumbers,  pare,  cut  them  lengthwise 
into  slips,  empty  their  seeds,  and  di- 
vide them  again  into  dice.  Pare  and 
core  four  sour  apples,  or  tomatoes, 
and  slice  a couple  of  Spanish  onions. 
These  last  fry,  slightly  browning 
them,  in  a large  stewpan,  with  % lb. 
of  good,  fresh  butter.  Throw  in  the 
other  vegetables  before  the  butter  has 
acquired  much  color,  and  stir  them 
gently  round.  Shake  the  pan  fre- 
quently, and  stew  gently  over  a slow 
fire  until  half  done,  when  add  from 
two  to  three  large  table-spoonfuls  of 
good  curry  powder,  and  stew  the 
vegetables  until  they  will  pulp,  pour- 
ing in  boiling  veal  stock  enough  to 
cover.  Strain  through  a coarse  hair 
sieve,  pressing  the  pulp  with  a wood- 
en spoon.  Add  more  stock,  or  even 
water,  if  stock  be  not  at  hand,  accord- 
ing to  the  quantity  of  soup  required, 
and  any  additional  seasoning  — salt, 
cayenne,  or  lemon-juice.  Thicken  if 
necessary  with  a very  little  ground 
rice  or  arrow-root,  and  serve  with  rice, 
if  liked ; but  it  should  be,  if  properly 
made,  quite  thick  enough  without  any 
addition.  Time,  two  hours  to  pre- 
pare. 


Mulligatawny  with  Veal  SOUPS 


Onion  Soup,  Brown 


Mulligatawny  with  Veal. — Prepare 
on  the  previous  day  some  good  veal 
stock ; cut  two  common-sized  onions 
into  fine  rings  and  fry  them  in  2 ozs. 
of  good,  fresh  butter ; just  as  they  are 
turning  to  a golden  color,  stir  in  three 
table -spoonfuls  of  the  best  mulliga- 
tawny paste  you  can  procure.  Bar- 
rie’s Madras  mulligatawny  paste  is 
the  best  for  this  purpose.  If,  how- 
ever, you  cannot  get  it,  then  take 
two  heaped -up  table -spoonfuls  of 
good  curry  powder,  and  mix  it  to  a 
paste  very  gradually  with  a little 
veal  stock  and  a few  drops  of  lemon- 
juice.  If  you  do  not  wish  the  soup 
to  be  very  highly  seasoned,  use  less 
powder.  When  you  have  stirred  the 
paste  or  powder,  as  the  case  may  be, 
into  the  frying-pan  with  the  onions, 
add  gradually  enough  of  the  stock 
to  make  the  mixture  about  the  con- 
sistency of  a mayonnaise  sauce.  If 
37ou  like  your  soup  rather  sweet,  add 
some  currant  jelly,  about  a dessert- 
spoonful ; the  same  quantity  of  good 
chutney  should  also  be  added,  and 
three  pints  of  the  veal  stock.  Let  it  all 
simmer  together  for  twenty  minutes. 
Pound  during  this  time  4 ozs.  of  co- 
coa nut  or  4 ozs.  of  sweet  almonds  in  a 
mortar,  moistening  with  milk ; strain 
the  mixture  into  the  soup,  and  then 
take  it  off  the  fire ; pass  it  through  a 
tin  strainer  into  a clean  bowl ; skim 
carefully,  and  when  heating  for  use 
thicken  with  butter  and  flour.  Al- 
low to  reach  boiling-point,  then  take 
off  the  fire,  and  having  put  a small 
cupful  of  fresh  cream  into  the  soup- 
tureen,  pour  the  soup  on  to  it.  Well- 
boiled  rice  is  generally  sent  to  table 
with  this  mulligatawny. 

Mutton  Broth. — Lean  meat  is  best 
for  broth ; from  2 to  3 lbs.  of  the  scrag 
end  of  the  neck  is  suited  to  the  pur- 
pose, and  if  for  a plain  broth,  not 
requiring  much  strength,  allow  a 
quart  of  water  to  each  pound  of  meat. 
Put  quite  cold  water  on  the  meat,  and 
set  it  over  a slow  fire  to  heat  grad- 
ually. Simmer  gently,  and  remove 
the  scum.  When  no  more  scum  is 
to  be  seen,  and  the  meat  is  sufficiently 


done  to  be  eaten,  it  may  be  removed 
for  the  family  dinner,  and  any  ad- 
dition to  the  broth  made.  Pearl 
barley,  rice,  or  oatmeal,  with  a carrot, 
a turnip,  an  onion  or  leek,  may  be 
added,  the  vegetables  being  cut  neat- 
ly. Season  to  taste.  Warm  up  the 
meat,  and  serve  in  a separate  dish, 
or  with  the  broth.  Pearl  barley 
should  be  boiled  separately  for  a few 
minutes,  and  then  strained,  and  boil- 
ed with  the  broth.  Time  to  simmer 
meat,  an  hour  and  a half. 

Nouilles  (Noodles),  Soup  of.  — 

Take  three  pints  of  any  nicely  sea- 
soned soup ; put  it  on  the  fire,  and 
when  it  is  boiling  drop  the  nouilles 
gradually  in  with  one  hand,  and  with 
the  other  stir  them  gently  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  to  keep  them  from  get- 
ting into  lumps.  They  will  swell  con- 
siderably in  the  liquid.  Serve  as  hot 
as  possible.  Time  to  boil  the  nouilles, 
ten  minutes.  Macaroni,  spaghetti,  or 
vermicelli  may  be  substituted  for  the 
noodles. 

Okra  Soup. — To  one  gallon  of 
water  cut  up  two  double  handfuls  of 
okra ; half  an  hour  afterwards  add  one 
handful  of  lima  beans,  pieces  of  small, 
tender  squashes,  some  fresh  meat, 
or  a fowl,  boiled  till  well  done.  One 
hour  before  you  take  it  up  put  in  five 
large  tomatoes,  or  a pint  of  small 
ones,  peeled  and  sliced,  and  when 
almost  done  put  in  a lump  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Do  not  let  it  be  too  thick. 
Put  it  on  early,  and  only  let  it  sim- 
mer. 

Onion  Soup,  Brown. — Take  about 
two  dozen  small  onions  — such  as 
would  be  used  for  pickling  — peel 
them  carefully,  sprinkle  a little  sugar 
on  them,  and  fry  them  till  nicely 
browned  in  a little  hot  butter.  Pour 
over  them  two  pints  of  clear  brown 
gravy  soup,  nicely  seasoned  and 
strongly  flavored  with  onions.  Let 
all  boil  up  together,  and  serve  very 
hot.  If  preferred,  this  soup  may  be 
thickened  by  stirring  into  it  a table- 


24 


Onion  Soup,  Maigre 


SOUPS 


Oyster  Soup 


spoonful  of  ground  rice  or  flour  mixed 
smoothly  with  a small  quantity  of 
cold  water.  Time,  about  ten  minutes 
to  brown  the  onions. 

Onion  Soup,  Maigre. — Mince  half 
a dozen  medium-sized  onions  very 
finely.  Put  them  into  a stewpan 
over  a gentle  fire  with  3 ozs.  of  dis- 
solved butter,  dredge  a little  flour 
over  them,  and  move  them  about  until 
they  are  tender  and  lightly  browned. 
Add  two  pints  of  boiling  water,  and 
a seasoning  of  salt,  pepper,  and  grated 
nutmeg.  Beat  two  eggs  briskly  for  a 
minute  or  two,  boil  the  soup,  let  it 
cool  half  a minute,  then  stir  it  in 
among  the  eggs,  and  serve  imme- 
diately. Time,  half  an  hour. 

Ox-tail  Soup,  Clear. — Cut  a fine, 
fresh  ox-tail  into  pieces  an  inch  long, 
and  divide  the  thick  part  into  four. 
Wash  these  pieces,  and  throw  them 
into  boiling  water  for  a quarter  of  an 
hour  ; then  drain,  and  wipe  them  with 
a soft  cloth.  Put  them  into  a stew- 
pan  with  two  carrots,  an  onion  stuck 
with  three  cloves,  a sprig  of  parsley, 
a small  piece  of  thyme,  two  or  three 
sticks  of  celery,  half  a blade  of  mace, 
a teaspoonful  of  salt,  six  or  eight 
peppercorns,  and  a quart  of  water  or 
clear  stock.  Boil,  remove  the  scum 
carefully  as  it  rises,  then  draw  the 
saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and 
simmer  very  gently  until  the  meat  is 
tender.  Lift  out  the  pieces  of  ox- 
tail, strain  the  soup,  and,  if  it  is  not 
clear  and  bright,  clarify  it.  Or,  turn 
three  carrots  and  two  turnips  into  any 
small  shapes  that  may  be  preferred, 
or  into  thin  shreds  an  inch  long, 
being  careful  only  that  they  are  all 
of  the  same  size.  Other  vegetables 
may  be  used  as  well  as  turnips  and 
carrots,  such  as  French  beans,  green 
pease,  asparagus,  celery,  or  onions. 
Put  these  into  a saucepan,  pour  the 
clarified  stock  over  them,  and  simmer 
gently  until  the  vegetables  are  tender. 
Heat  the  pieces  of  ox -tail,  pour  the 
soup  upon  them,  and  serve  as  hot  as 
possible.  Time,  about  three  hours 
to  simmer  the  ox-tail. 


Ox -tail  Soup,  Thick. — This  soup 
is,  of  course,  much  better  if  made 
with  stock  instead  of  water.  If  no 
stock  is  at  hand,  fresh  bones  sim- 
mered gently  with  three  quarts  of 
water  for  six  hours,  and  carefully 
skimmed,  will  make  good  stock  ; 
or,  if  preferred,  it  can  be  made  from 
fresh  meat.  Take  two  fine  ox-tails, 
wash  them,  cut  them  into  pieces  about 
an  inch  long,  and  divide  the  thick 
pieces  into  four.  Put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  2 ozs.  of  fresh  butter, 
and  fry  them  until  they  are  brightly 
browned.  Slice  some  vegetables — 
two  carrots,  one  turnip,  two  onions, 
and  half  a dozen  sticks  of  celery — 
and  fry  them  in  the  same  butter,  and 
with  them  2 ozs.  of  lean  ham  cut  into 
dice.  Pour  over  them  a quart  of 
water,  and  stir  it  over  a quick  fire 
for  a quarter  of  an  hour;  then  add 
two  quarts  of  stock,  a bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  a bay-leaf,  a dessert-spoonful 
of  salt,  half  a teaspoonful  of  pepper- 
corns, three  cloves,  and  a lump  of 
sugar.  Simmer  gently  until  the  meat 
is  tender  and  parts  easily  from  the 
bones;  then  take  it  out,  strain  the 
soup,  skim  the  fat  from  the  top  of  the 
liquid,  brown  it  in  a saucepan,  and 
mix  smoothly  with  it  2 ozs.  of  fine 
flour.  Thicken  the  soup  with  this, 
and  flavor  it  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  mushroom  catsup,  add  the  pieces 
of  tail,  simmer  a quarter  of  an  hour 
longer,  and  serve.  If  preferred,  the 
vegetables  may  be  crushed  through 
a colander  and  added  to  the  soup  in 
the  form  of  a puree.  A glassful  of 
port  may  be  added  or  not.  Serve 
fresh  rolls  with  this  soup.  Time, 
four  hours  to  simmer  the  soup. 

Oyster  Soup.  — Take  three  quarts 
of  oysters  and  strain  the  liquor  from 
them.  Put  the  liquor  on  to  boil  with 
half  a pint  of  chopped  celery,  one 
onion,  two  or  three  blades  of  mace, 
pepper,  and  salt.  When  it  boils,  add 
the  oysters ; but  care  should  be  taken 
not  to  let  them  cook  too  much.  Just 
before  taking  it  off,  the  thickening 
must  be  added,  viz.,  one  spoonful  of 
flour  creamed  into  the  well-beaten 


370 


Pancake  Soup 


SOUPS 


Potage  a la  Cr6cy 


yolks  of  three  eggs.  Pour  a little  of 
the  hot  soup  gradually  upon  the  eggs 
and  flour,  stirring  all  the  while,  and 
as  soon  as  well  mixed  pour  into  the 
soup,  with  a little  cream.  Then  add 
one  quart  of  rich,  unskimmed  milk; 
let  all  come  to  a boil,  and  pour  into  a 
tureen  over  some  small  squares  of 
cold  bread.  Serve  it  very  hot. 

Pancakes,  Soup  of.  — Make  very 
thin  plain  pancakes  in  the  usual  way, 
and  be  careful  to  put  no  more  fat  into 
the  pan  with  them  than  is  required 
to  prevent  them  sticking.  Drain 
them  on  blotting-paper,  to  free  them 
from  grease,  and  cut  them  into  nar- 
row strips  about  an  inch  long,  or 
into  small  diamonds  or  squares. 
Throw  them  into  a saucepan  contain- 
ing two  pints  of  clear  brown  gravy 
soup,  boiling  hot ; let  them  boil  quick- 
ly for  a minute  or  two,  and  serve. 
Time,  ten  minutes  to  fry  the  pan- 
cakes. 

Parmesan  and  Soup. — Grated  Par- 
mesan should  be  served  with  maca- 
roni and  all  other  soups  made  with 
Italian  pastes. 

Pea  Soup. — To  every  quart  of  un- 
shelled pease  allow  two  quarts  of  water, 
in  which  boil  the  empty  pods  half  an 
hour ; remove,  strain,  add  one  pint  of 
cold  water,  place  over  the  fire,  and  put 
in  2 lbs.  of  beef  cut  into  small  pieces ; 
boil  slowly  one  hour,  and,  if  not  enough 
water,  add  some  boiling  hot ; put  in 
the  pease,  and  if  the  meat  is  not  de- 
sired in  the  soup,  remove  it ; add 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  rice  flour  stir- 
red smoothly  in  half  a teacupful  of 
new  milk ; stir  frequently,  to  prevent 
the  flour  from  scorching. 

Another  way  : — Pea  soup  may  be 
made  from  dried  pease  either  whole  or 
split ; the  latter  are  to  be  preferred. 
Soak  a quart  of  pease  overnight. 
The  next  day  wash  and  drain  them, 
and  put  them  into  a large  saucepan, 
with  6 ozs.  of  lean  ham,  or,  if  it  is  at 
hand,  the  knuckle-bone  of  a ham, 
three  sliced  carrots,  two  onions,  and 
three  or  four  sticks  of  celery  cut  into 


small  pieces.  Pour  over  these  three 
quarts  of  the  liquor  in  which  pork, 
beef,  or  mutton  has  been  boiled. 
Simmer  gently  until  the  pease  are 
reduced  to  pulp,  stirring  frequently ; 
then  rub  the  whole  through  a hair 
sieve,  and  put  the  soup  back  into  the 
stewpan.  Let  it  boil,  and  skim  it 
carefully.  Add  pepper  and  salt  if 
necessary,  stir  in  i oz.  of  butter,  and 
serve  as  hot  as  possible.  Send  pow- 
dered mint  or  powdered  sage  to  table 
on  a separate  dish.  A table-spoonful 
of  curry  powder  will  greatly  improve 
the  soup.  Time,  four  hours. 

Peanut  Soup.  — Shell  3 lbs.  of 
roasted  nuts,  rub  off  the  dry,  brown 
skin,  pound  the  nuts  to  a smooth 
paste  in  a mortar,  gradually  adding 
a table-spoonful  of  brandy;  put  this 
paste  into  a saucepan,  and  gradually 
stir  into  it  two  quarts  of  boiling  water  ; 
season  it  with  salt  and  cayenne  pep- 
per ; let  it  simmer  gently  until  it 
thickens,  stirring  it  occasionally  to 
prevent  burning,  and  then  serve  it 
hot. 

Potage  a la  Crecy  (an  excellent 
carrot  soup.) — Slice  off  the  red  parts 
of  a dozen  carrots  and  put  them  into 
a stewpan,  with  2 ozs.  of  gutter,  a 
large  lump  of  sugar,  three  good- 
sized  onions,  two  turnips,  a dozen 
peppercorns,  Y\  lb.  of  undressed 
lean  ham,  the  outer  sticks  of  two 
heads  of  celery,  and  four  leeks.  Cover, 
then  sweat  the  vegetables  over  a 
gentle  fire  for  ten  minutes.  Shake 
the  saucepan  to  keep  the  contents 
from  burning.  Pour  over  them  a 
quart  of  cold  stock  or  water,  and  let 
them  simmer  gently  for  two  hours, 
or  until  the  vegetables  are  quite  ten- 
der. Strain  off  the  soup,  and  press 
the  vegetables  with  a wooden  spoon 
through  a sieve.  Mix  the  pulp  again 
with  the  stock,  season  with  pepper 
and  salt,  put  it  back  into  the  stew- 
pan, and  let  it  boil.  Draw  it  to  the 
side  of  the  fire  for  a few  minutes,  and 
skim  off  the  fat  as  it  rises  to  the  sur- 
face. Add  pepper  and  salt,  and  serve. 
Send  toasted  sippets  to  table  in  a. 


371 


Potage  a la  Reine 


SOUPS 


Potage  Velours 


separate  dish.  If  there  is  no  stock 
at  hand  and  water  has  to  be  used 
for  the  soup,  a teaspoonful  of  Liebig's 
or  any  other  extract  of  meat  should 
be  added  to  it.  Time,  three  hours 
and  a half. 

Potage  a la  Reine. — This  is  a deli- 
cate white  soup.  Skin  and  wash 
carefully  three  young  chickens  or 
two  large  fowls,  and  boil  them  in 
five  pints  of  good,  nicely  flavored  veal 
stock  for  about  an  hour.  Lift  them 
out,  pick  off  all  the  white  meat,  put 
the  bodies  of  the  fowls  again  into  the 
stewpan,  and  let  them  simmer  an 
hour  and  a half  longer.  Season  the 
broth  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and 
when  it  is  sufficiently  simmered  pour 
it  out,  let  it  cool,  and  thoroughly 
take  off  the  fat  which  rises  to  the 
surface.  Pound  the  white  flesh  of 
the  birds  to  a perfectly  smooth  paste, 
and  with  it  a teacupful  of  finely  grated 
bread-crumbs.  Mix  gradually  with 
this  paste  a small  quantity  of  the 
boiling  stock,  and  press  it  through  a 
fine  hair  sieve.  Add  the  rest  of  the 
stock,  and  stir  the  whole  over  a gen- 
tle fire  in  a clean  saucepan  tmtil  it 
boils.  Add  from  a pint  to  a pint  and 
a half  of  boiling  cream.  Serve  very 
hot.  If  liked,  the  cream  may  be 
slightly  flavored  with  almonds.  If 
veal  broth  is  not  at  hand,  a little  may 
be  made  as  follows  : Buy  a knuckle 
of  veal  from  which  nearly  all  the 
meat  has  been  cut  off.  Break  it  into 
small  pieces,  and  put  it  into  a stew- 
pan  with  Yz  lb.  of  lean  ham  cut  up 
small — or  a ham-bone — a small  car- 
rot, a small  onion,  a head  of  celery,  a 
large  blade  of  mace,  a bunch  of  pars- 
ley, and  a dozen  white  peppercorns. 
Pour  over  these  a gallon  of  cold  water. 
Bring  the  liquid  slowly  to  the  boil, 
skim  very  carefully,  then  draw  the 
pan  to  the  side  and  let  the  contents 
simmer  for  six  or  seven  hours  until 
the  stock  is  reduced  to  five  pints. 
Pour  the  soup  out  and  leave  it  until 
the  next  day.  Take  the  fat  from  the 
top,  and  pour  off  the  soup  without  the 
settlings.  Boil  the  fowls  in  this 
stock.  If  the  soup  is  not  sufficient^ 


thick,  it  may  be  made  so  with  a little 
arrow -root  or  ground  rice.  Time, 
about  four  hours. 

Potage  a la  Xavier.— Mix  the  well- 
beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  the 
white  of  one  with  three-quarters  of  a 
pint  of  flour.  Add  a little  pepper 
and  salt,  the  eighth  part  of  a nutmeg, 
grated,  and  a dessert  - spoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  and  mix  all  the  in- 
gredients thoroughly.  Stir  in  as 
much  stock  as  will  make  the  batter 
thin  enough  to  pass  through  a col- 
ander. Boil  two  quarts  of  strained 
and  nicely  flavored  stock.  Put  the 
batter  into  it  by  means  of  a ladle 
perforated  with  holes,  and  stir  well 
as  long  as  it  is  on  the  fire.  Skim 
carefully.  Boil  a quarter  of  an  hour 
longer,  and  serve. 

Potage  Brunoise.  — Cut  into  little 
squares  of  less  than  a quarter  of  an 
inch  in  size  the  following  vegetables  : 
4 ozs.  of  the  red  part  of  carrots,  4 
ozs.  of  turnips,  4 ozs.  of  leeks,  4 ozs. 
of  the  white  part  of  celery,  4 ozs.  of 
onions.  Put  these  in  a stewpan  with 
12  ozs.  of  butter  and  let  them  fry  till 
they  assume  a red  hue ; add  then  a 
pinch  of  powdered  white  sugar  and 
one  pint  of  broth  ; let  it  simmer  for 
half  an  hour,  then  pour  in  five  and 
one-quarter  pints  of  broth ; let  the 
whole  simmer  for  two  hours ; skim, 
and  remove  the  grease.  Have  ready 
8 ozs.  of  cooked  macaroni,  vermicelli, 
or  spaghetti,  which  must  also  have 
been  simmered  till  quite  tender  and 
then  drained  dry.  Put  this  in  the 
soup  tureen  and  pour  the  brunoise 
over  it. 

Potage  Velours. — Draw  and  singe 
a fowl,  wash  it  in  warm  water,  rinse 
it  in  cold  water,  dry  it,  tie  it  all  around 
with  a string,  put  it  in  the  soup- 
kettle  with  a whole  shin  of  beef  and 
five  quarts  of  cold  water,  and  place 
on  a good  fire.  Watch  for  the  boil- 
ing-point, as  it  is  very  important  to 
have  a clear  broth.  After  the  first 
scum  has  been  removed  add  a quarter 
of  a glass  of  cold  water ; two  minutes 


372 


Potato  Soup 


SOUPS 


Purees 


after  skim  again,  and  add  another 
quarter  of  a glassful  of  cold  water ; 
repeat  a third  time,  then  season  with 
half  a table- spoonful  of  salt,  one 
salt-spoonful  of  pepper,  four  carrots, 
four  turnips  cut  in  slices,  four  leeks, 
six  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  branches 
of  white  celery,  three  cloves,  two 
bay -leaves.  Cover  the  kettle,  but 
leave  a small  place  open.  Boil  slowly 
for  four  hours,  remove  the  meat, 
strain  the  broth,  and  keep  in  a bowl 
until  ready  to  finish  the  soup.  While 
the  broth  is  cooking  have  two  quarts 
of  sliced  red  carrots  prepared  by 
scraping  them  and  washing  them 
and  putting  them  in  a saucepan 
with  two  table  - spoonfuls  of  butter 
and  one  table  - spoonful  of  granu- 
lated sugar ; cover  the  saucepan, 
and  cook  on  a moderate  fire  for  fifteen 
minutes,  tossing  them  meanwhile; 
then  add  one  quart  of  warm  water, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper;  cook  slowly  for 
two  hours.  Pass  them  through  a 
colander,  then  through  a strainer. 
Skim  off  the  fat  from  the  broth,  put 
it  back  on  the  fire,  and  when  boiling 
add  the  puree  of  carrots  with  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  tapioca;  let  it  cook 
slowly  for  thirty  minutes,  remove 
from  the  fire,  add  half  a pint  of  good 
cream,  and  serve  very  hot.  The 
breast  of  the  fowl  cold  makes  a nice 
salad  for  the  next  day. 

Potato  Soup.  — Take  six  good- 
sized  potatoes,  add  Y\  lb.  of  salt 
pork,  two  small  onions,  and  a few 
sprigs  of  parsley.  Put  all  these  to- 
gether in  a pot  with  water  enough 
to  liberally  cover  them.  Let  them 
boil  until  the  pork  is  tender  and 
thoroughly  done;  by  that  time  the 
potatoes  will  have  fallen  to  pieces. 
Rub  through  a colander,  taking  out 
the  pork.  Then  add  to  the  mixture 
a pint  of  milk  and  a piece  of  butter 
the  size  of  a walnut,  and  salt  to  taste. 
Let  it  boil  up  once  to  become  thor- 
oughly hot,  pass  it  quickly  through 
a sieve,  and  serve  in  a tureen.  This 
soup  can  be  made  in  an  hour. 

Another  way:  — Peel  a quart  of 


nice  white  potatoes,  and  boil  them  in 
a gallon  of  water.  When  they  are 
well  done,  take  them  out  and  mash 
fine.  Season  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
butter  to  taste,  and  add  two  onions 
chopped  fine,  or  a bunch  of  celery 
chopped  fine,  if  preferred.  Return 
the  mixture  to  the  boiling  water,  and 
let  it  boil  fifteen  minutes.  Beat 
very  light  two  eggs,  into  which  stir 
a cupful  of  sweet  cream,  and  add  it 
to  the  soup.  Many  persons  also  like 
to  have  two  or  three  slices  of  toast 
put  in  with  the  cream.  Let  the  whole 
boil  up  once,  And  serve.  This  is  tempt- 
ing both  to  the  eye  and  the  palate. 

Pumpkin,  Cream  of.  — Peel  a nice 
ripe  pumpkin,  and  cut  in  small  pieces 
enough  to  fill  a quart  measure.  Put 
these  in  a saucepan  with  one  pint  of 
cold  water,  one  salt-spoonful  of  salt, 
half  a one  of  white  pepper,  half  a 
table- spoonful  of  sugar,  and  cover 
the  saucepan.  Cook  slowly  for  one 
hour  and  a half,  stirring  from  time 
to  time ; strain  through  a colander 
and  then  through  a fine  strainer. 
Put  the  puree  back  in  the  saucepan, 
and  .sprinkle  over  it  half  a table- 
spoonful of  flour ; mix  well ; pour  in 
slowly,  while  stirring,  one  quart  of 
boiled  milk.  Add  half  a table-spoon- 
ful of  very  fresh  butter,  and  let  it 
simmer  for  fifteen  minutes.  Add 
one  pint  of  rich  cream,  and  have  it 
very  hot,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil. 
Serve  in  cups  with  hot  salted  crackers 
toasted. 

Purees. — As  this  expression  is  used 
in  three  senses,  it  is  necessary  to 
explain  and  define  what  is  meant  by 
each.  All  purees  are  the  result  of 
boiling  or  stewing  the  fruit,  vege- 
table, or  cereal  in  broth  or  water, 
and  passing  the  mixture  through  a 
more  or  less  fine  sieve  or  tamis. 
If  the  puree  is  to  be  served  separately 
as  a vegetable,  not  as  a soup,  it  must 
be  almost  solid.  If  it  is  to  be  used  for 
soup,  it  is  diluted  with  broth  or  stock, 
and  other  additions,  till  the  mixture 
is  of  the  consistency  of  thick  cream. 
Or  if  the  puree  is  to  be  used  as  sauce, 


373 


Puree  of  Game,  Etc. 


SOUPS 


Sago  Soup 


a different  thickness  or  thinness  is 
required;  not  uniform,  but  varying 
according  to  the  materials.  For  in- 
stance, apple  and  tomato  sauces  are 
to  be  thicker  than  celery  or  chestnut 
sauces.  Practice  and  discriminating 
taste  must  adjust  rules  and  excep- 
tions. 

Puree  soups  should  be  of  the  con- 
sistency of  cream,  and  perfectly 
smooth  and  free  from  lumps.  The 
addition  of  cream  gives  greater  smooth- 
ness to  all  purees,  and  is  necessary 
when  they  are  made  without  meat; 
but  these  soups  will  keep  sweet  for 
only  twelve  hours.  The  time  for 
simmering  and  the  quantity  of  water 
differ  according  as  the  vegetable  is 
young  and  tender  or  old  and  hard. 
Dried  pease,  etc.,  must  be  soaked  be- 
forehand. The  simmering  must  pro- 
duce a pulp  which  will  pass  through 
the  tamis  or  wire  sieve,  and  the 
broth  must  be  added  and  stirred  in 
to  the  requisite  consistency.  Beware 
of  salt,  as  the  simmering  in  this,  as 
in  all  cases  where  the  liquid  reduces, 
makes  the  stock  or  soup  increasingly 
salt. 

This  class  of  soups  may  be  made 
with  carrots,  turnips,  green  pease, 
dried  pease,  string  beans,  lentils,  po- 
tatoes, barley,  rice,  tomatoes,  chest- 
nuts, spinach,  asparagus,  celery,  or 
a mixture  of  carrots,  turnips,  pota- 
toes, etc.  They  all  require  onions 
and  celery  to  give  flavor.  They 
must  all  be  passed  through  a sieve, 
and  the  vegetables  or  cereals  may  be 
stewed  in  weak  broth,  or  in  water 
with  some  butter  if  for  maigre  soups. 
Serve  with  crofitons. 

Pur6e  of  Game,  Chicken,  or  Rab- 
bit Soup.  — The  remains  of  roast 
grouse,  partridge,  etc.,  should  be 
carefully  saved  to  make  puree  of 
game  soup.  The  meat  is  to  be  care- 
fully scraped  away  from  the  bones, 
pounded  in  a mortar,  diluted  with 
stock,  and  passed  through  a tamis. 
This  puree  is  to  be  mixed  with  well- 
seasoned  stock ; the  soup  ought  to  be 
the  consistence  of  double  cream.  If 
the  game  puree  is  not  quite  enough,  a 


small  amount  of  rice  stewed  in  broth 
may  be  passed  through  the  tamis  with 
the  game. 

Queen’s  Soup.— Wash  the  fowl  in 
warm  water;  stew  for  an  hour  with 
sufficient  strong  veal  broth  to  cover 
the  meat,  and  a bunch  of  parsley. 
Take  out  the  fowl  and  soak  bread- 
crumb in  the  liquor;  cut  the  meat 
off;  take  away  the  skin,  and  pound 
the  flesh  in  a mortar,  adding  the 
soaked  crumb  and  the  yolks  of  five 
hard-boiled  eggs;  rub  this  through 
a coarse  sieve  or  tamis,  and  put  into 
it  a quart  of  cream  that  has  been 
previously  boiled. 

Rice  Soup.  — Wash  well  4 ozs. 
of  rice,  and  boil  it  in  two  quarts  of 
veal  stock  till  tender ; drain  it,  and 
put  the  stock  with  half  the  rice  back 
into  thestewpan;  rub  the  rest  through 
a fine  sieve,  then  stir  it  into  the  soup 
and  let  it  boil  up.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
three  eggs  with  half  a pint  of  cream, 
take  the  soup  off  the  fire  for  two  min- 
utes, then  add  the  eggs  and  cream 
gradually,  and  stir  the  soup  unceas- 
ingly for  three  or  four  minutes  until 
it  is  thoroughly  hot ; but  it  must  not 
boil  again  or  the  eggs  will  curdle. 
Time,  two  hours. 

Roux,  or  Thickening  for  Soups. 

See  Gravies. 

Russian  Soup. — The  cabbage  is  to 
be  cut  in  shreds  an  inch  long.  One 
onion  (a  Spanish  onion  preferred), 
to  be  cut  in  shreds,  and  a few  fine 
herbs.  Fry  in  butter,  but  do  not 
brown;  drain,  and  add  to  the  soup, 
with  one  table  - spoonful  of  flour. 
Have  ready  small  balls  of  beef  sau- 
sage, made  of  2 ozs.  of  beef  chopped 
very  small,  2 ozs.  of  suet  chopped  very 
small,  one  egg,  pepper  and  salt.  Fry, 
and  place  in  the  soup,  with  a squeeze 
of  lemon,  just  before  serving  up. 

Sago  Soup. — Wash  6 ozs.  of  sago, 
and  add  it  gradually  to  two  quarts  of 
well- flavored  stock.  Let  it  simmer 
gently  till  the  sago  is  quite  clear,  and 


371 


J 


Sago  Soup 


SOUPS 


Squirrel  Soup 


put  in  further  seasoning  if  necessary. 
Before  serving  the  soup  mix  with 
it  either  the  strained  juice  of  a lemon 
and  a glass  of  light  wine,  or  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten  up  with  a 
little  cream. 

Sago  Soup  (without  meat).  — 
First  wash  a teacupful  of  sago  and 
then  boil  it  for  an  hour  in  a quart  of 
water,  with  a pinch  of  salt,  and  a 
little  cinnamon  or  lemon -rind  for 
flavoring.  By  this  time  the  water 
should  be  reduced  one -half.  Fill 
up  the  lacking  half  with  red  wine ; 
add  some  slices  of  lemon  and  5 ozs. 
of  sugar  for  sweetening.  Let  the 
whole  come  to  a boil  once,  and  when 
ready  to  serve  sprinkle  the  surface 
with  powdered  cinnamon  or  nut- 
meg, whichever  you  prefer. 

Scotch  Broth. — Boil  x/z  lb.  of  barley 
slowly  in  three  pints  of  stock.  When 
the  barley  is  thoroughly  cooked,  rub 
the  whole  through  a sieve.  Return 
to  fire,  and  add  a little  cooked  barley, 
half  a pint  of  milk,  2 ozs.  of  butter, 
chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper, 
and  heat.  Beat  up  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs  and  add  them,  together  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  four  to  six 
table -spoonfuls  of  cream.  Mix  well 
together,  and  when  warm  enough  dish. 
When  in  tureen  add  a few  lumps  of 
butter  and  a little  more  cream. 

Scotch  Hotch-potch. — Take  two 
quarts  of  good  mutton  or  lamb  broth, 
or  liquor  in  which  joints  of  either 
have  been  boiled,  remove  all  fat  and 
strain  clear  of  sediment;  grate  two 
carrots  and  slice  three,  adding  young 
turnips,  onion,  lettuce,  and  parsley, 
until  there  is  altogether  a quart  of 
shred  vegetables.  Then  take  a pint 
of  young  green  pease,  and  add  sprigs 
of  cauliflower  sufficient  to  make  up  a 
second  quart  of  vegetables  ; put  them, 
with  the  exception  of  half  of  the  pease, 
into  the  stock.  Keep  the  whole  stew- 
ing gently  for  half  an  hour,  then 
trim  2 lbs.  of  ribs  of  lamb  or  mutton 
into  cutlets,  and  add  with  the  rest  of 
the  pease,  flavoring  with  salt,  pepper, 


and  chopped  parsley;  simmer  slowly 
for  an  hour,  and  then  serve  very  hot. 

Shell-fish  Soup.  — Put  into  a stew- 
pan  some  olive  oil  (half  a table- 
spoonful for  each  person)  and  a very 
little  garlic  finely  chopped.  When 
the  garlic  is  well  fried  add  some 
tomato  sauce  (half  a table-spoonful 
for  each  person)  ; then  put  in  your 
shell  - fish  (all  sorts  of  small  shell- 
fish, clams,  shrimp,  even  mussels, 
etc.,  such  as  the  market  offers),  well 
washed  and  brushed  beforehand. 
Now  add  a spoonful  of  consomme  for 
each  person,  a few  cloves,  and  a little 
nutmeg.  If  you  have  no  consomme 
use  extract  of  meat.  Serve  with  crou- 
tons. 

Soubise  Broth. 

See  Brown  Soubise  Broth. 

Soup  a la  Grecque. — To  two  pints  of 
stock  add  half  a teacupful  of  rice  and 
a little  mint.  Boil  slowly  for  twenty 
minutes,  then  add  half  a pint  of  cold 
stock,  and  mix  well  together.  Beat 
up  three  eggs  until  thick,  and  to  them 
add  the  stock  and  rice  slowly.  At 
first  a spoonful  at  a time.  Mix  the 
whole  well,  and  then  pour  back  into 
the  pan,  stirring  continually,  and 
return  to  fire.  Add  1 oz.  of  butter 
and  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  and  stir 
well.  When  ready  for  table  add  pate 
de  foie  gras,  or  two  chicken  livers 
finely  minced. 

Spinach,  Cream  of.  — Wash  two 
quarts  of  spinach,  and  while  it  is 
still  dripping  wet  put  over  the  fire  fin 
a double  boiler.  Add  to  the  spinach 
a pinch  of  soda,  but  no  water  except 
that  clinging  to  the  leaves.  Cover 
closely,  and  cook  until  soft  enough 
to  rub  through  a colander.  Heat  to 
the  scalding  - point  a quart  of  milk, 
thicken  with  a table-spoonful  of  but- 
ter and  one  of  flour  rubbed  together, 
and  add  to  this  the  spinach.  Sea- 
son and  serve. 

Squirrel  Soup  (Mrs.  Stuart's).  — 
Even  persons  who  find  squirrel  dis- 


375 


Tapioca  Cream  Soup 


SOUPS 


Turkey  Soup 


tasteful  as  meat  regard  it  as  sup- 
plying delightful  material  for  soup. 
Three  squirrels  are  none  too  many 
to  allow  for  making  a tureen  full  of 
soup.  Put  them  on,  with  a small 
table-spoonful  of  salt,  directly  after 
breakfast,  in  a gallon  of  cold  water. 
Cover  the  pot  closely,  and  set  it  on  the 
back  part  of  the  stove  to  simmer  gen- 
tly, not  boil.  Add  vegetables  just  the 
same  as  you  do  for  other  meat  soups 
in  the  summer  season,  but  especially 
good  will  you  find  corn,  Irish  potatoes, 
okra,  and  lima  beans.  Strain  the 
soup  through  a coarse  colander  when 
the  meat  has  boiled  to  a rag,  so  as  to 
get  rid  of  the  squirrels'  troublesome 
little  bones.  Then  return  to  the  pot, 
and  after  boiling  a long  while,  thicken 
with  a piece  of  butter  rubbed  in  flour. 
Celery  and  parsley  leaves  chopped 
up  are  also  considered  an  improve- 
ment by  many,  and  those  who  like 
it  thick  as  gumbo  add  a spoonful  of 
powdered  sassafras  leaves.  Toast 
two  slices  of  bread,  cut  them  into 
dice  an  inch  square,  fry  them  in  but- 
ter, put  them  into  the  bottom  of  your 
tureen,  and  then  pour  the  soup  boiling 
hot  upon  them. 

Tapioca  Cream  Soup. — One  quart 
of  white  stock,  one  pint  of  cream  or 
milk,  one  onion,  two  stalks  of  celery, 
one-third  of  a cupful  of  tapioca,  two 
cupfuls  of  cold  water,  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  butter,  one  small  piece  of  mace, 
salt,  pepper.  Wash  the  tapioca  and 
soak  overnight  in  cold  water.  Cook 
it  and  the  stock  together  very  gently 
for  one  hour.  Then  cut  the  onion 
and  celery  into  small  pieces,  and  put 
on  to  cook  for  twenty  minutes  with 
the  milk  and  mace.  Strain  on  the 
tapioca  and  stock.  Season  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  butter. 


spoonfuls  each  of  flour  and  butter, 
and  add  to  the  milk  when  boiling 
and  stir  constantly  until  it  thickens. 
Rub  the  tomatoes  through  a sieve 
and  return  them  to  the  fire.  Add  a 
teaspoonful  of  sugar  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  When  ready  to  serve 
add  half  a teaspoonful  of  soda  to 
the  tomatoes  and  then  the  boiling 
milk.  Stir  quickly  and  serve  at  once, 
with  croutons  in  the  soup. 

Tomato  Soup. — For  this  excellent 
soup  the  proportions  are  : seven  or 
eight  middling-sized  tomatoes,  three 
pints  of  broth,  four  or  five  stalks  of 
parsley,  two  of  thyme,  salt,  pepper, 
a teaspoonful  of  peppercorns,  a bay- 
leaf,  two  onions,  three  cloves,  and 
three  or  four  cloves  of  garlic,  % lb.  of 
rice,  a table-spoonful  of  butter,  i oz. 
of  sugar,  three  slices  of  bread.  The 
tomatoes  are  put  into  boiling  water  for 
a few  seconds,  taken  out  and  dropped 
into  cold  water,  and  then  skinned. 
They  are  put  into  a saucepan,  and 
set  on  a moderate  fire  with  the  broth, 
parsley,  salt,  pepper,  and  the  follow- 
ing spices  tied  in  a linen  bag  : thyme, 
peppercorns,  bay -leaf,  onions,  and 
cloves.  When  cooked,  the  whole  is 
turned  into  a colander  (with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  spices  in  the  bag),  and 
forced  through  with  a potato-masher, 
except  the  tomato  - seeds  ; then  the 
strained  juice  and  pulp  are  mixed 
with  the  rice  ; after  it  has  been  boiled, 
the  butter  and  sugar  are  added.  The 
whole  is  simmered  for  about  half  an 
hour,  and  turned  into  the  soup-dish. 
While  it  is  simmering  the  slices  of 
bread  are  cut  into  dice  and  fried  with 
a little  butter,  and  put  into  the  soup 
tureen  before  turning  the  mixture 
therein.  Cover  it  for  two  minutes, 
and  serve. 


Thickening,  or  Roux  for  Soups.  Turkey  Soup. — Take  the  bones  and 

See  Gravies,  trimmings  of  what  is  left  over  of  a 
roast  turkey,  break  them  into  small 
Tomato,  Bisque  of. — Stew  fifteen  pieces,  put  them  into  a stewpan  with 
minutes  in  a saucepan  one  quart  of  any  force  - meat  or  sauce  that  may 
tomatoes  and  an  onion  sliced.  Mean-  be  left,  and  pour  over  them  two  quarts 
while  boil  in  a double  boiler  one  quart  of  stock,  or  water  sufficient  to  cover, 
of  milk.  Cream  together  two  table-  with  a little  extract  of  meat.  Bring 

376 


Turtle  Soup 


SOUPS 


Veal  Soup 


this  slowly  to  the  boil,  skim  carefully, 
and  add  a little  salt  and  pepper,  cel- 
ery, an  onion,  and  a carrot.  Let  these 
simmer  gently  till  the  bones  are  quite 
clean.  Strain  the  soup  and  free  it  from 
fat.  Add  further  seasoning  if  liked, 
and  either  thicken  the  soup  with  rice 
or  macaroni,  etc.,  or,  if  a clear  soup 
is  preferred,  clarify.  The  clarifying 
process  will  not  be  necessary  if  the 
soup  has  been  gently  simmered,  thor- 
oughly skimmed,  and  well  strained. 
Should  there  be  much  meat  left  on 
the  turkey,  some  of  it  can  be  used  in 
making  patties  or  rissoles ; or  it  may 
be  minced  or  devilled  before  the  bones 
and  trimmings  are  made  into  the  soup. 
Time,  four  hours. 

Turtle  Soup  (from  dried  turtle 
imported  from  South  America). — 
The  pieces  of  dried  turtle  require  to 
be  soaked  in  cold  water  for  three 
days  and  three  nights,  the  water 
being  changed  every  morning.  And 
as  the  turtle  has  to  be  cooked  for 
twelve  hours  in  the  stock  which  forms 
the  soup,  four  days  are  required  to 
produce  turtle  soup.  After  the  turtle 
has  undergone  soaking,  it  swells  to 
three  times  its  size  when  dry  ; it  is  then 
ready  for  putting  into  the  stock.  One 
pound  of  turtle  is  used  for  every  three 
quarts  of  soup.  The  stock  is  made 
by  laying  slices  of  ham  in  the  stock- 
pot,  and  then  a knuckle  of  veal  cut 
up,  as  in  other  soups ; cold  water,  a 
slow  fire,  and  skimming.  The  vege- 
tables, put  in  at  the  usual  stage,  are 
to  be  green  onions,  bay -leaves,  a 
large  bunch  of  fine  herbs,  and  a 
handful  of  parsley.  Pepper,  salt  in 
very  moderate  quantity  (as  else  the 
long  period  during  which  the  turtle 
cooks  will  make  the  soup  too  salt), 
and  six  cloves.  When  the  stock  is 
strained  take  out  the  onions,  herbs, 
and  parsley,  and  put  them  in  a stew- 
pan  with  % lb.  of  butter  and  a blade 
of  mace  ; when  the  butter  is  melted 
add  a little  sugar,  simmer  on  the  fire 
a short  time,  and  then  rub  through 
a tamis ; add  these  to  the  soup  after 
the  turtle  has  been  simmered  in  it  for 
nearly  the  twelve  hours ; add  also  a 


glassful  of  good  Madeira  and  a squeeze 
of  lemon,  and  a little  thin  white  roux. 
Turtle  soup  must  not  be  much  thick- 
ened, and  must  present  a greenish 
color,  not  a brown. 

Veal  Soup.  — Take  2 lbs.  of  the 
knuckle  of  veal.  Divide  it  into  three 
or  four  pieces,  and  put  these  into  a 
stewpan  with  any  bones  or  trimmings 
of  veal  or  poultry  that  may  be  at  hand, 
and  add  Y\  lb.  of  lean  ham,  a few' 
sticks  of  celery,  an  onion  with  a clove 
stuck  into  it,  a small  blade  of  mace, 
six  or  eight  peppercorns,  a little  salt, 
and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  rice.  Pour 
over  these  ingredients  about  five 
pints  of  cold  stock  or  water,  and  let 
the  soup  simmer  gently  from  three  to 
four  hours.  Carefully  remove  the 
scum  as  it  rises.  Strain  the  stock, 
season  and  flour  as  much  of  it  as  may 
be  required  for  table  with  salt,  white 
pepper,  lemon  - juice,  and  pounded 
mace,  and  thicken  with  white  thick- 
ening. If  preferred,  this  soup  may 
be  served  with  the  boiled  rice  in  it, 
and  with  sippets  or  force-meat  balls. 
The  veal  may  be  cut  into  neat  pieces 
and  served  with  parsley  and  butter 
or  egg  sauce. 

Another  way  : — Take  about  4 lbs. 
of  the  knuckle  of  veal,  and  cut  it  into 
five  or  six  pieces,  sawing  through 
the  bones  neatly.  Put  these  in  a 
stewpan,  pour  over  them  as  much 
cold  water  as  will  freely  cover  them, 
and  let  the  liquor  boil.  Skim  care- 
fully, draw  it  to  the  side,  and  let  it 
simmer  for  an  hour.  Throw  in  with 
it  five  or  six  turnips,  two  onions,  and 
a few  outer  sticks  of  celery,  and  let 
it  simmer  gently  for  another  hour. 
Mix  a table-spoonful  of  flour  or  ground 
rice  to  a smooth  paste  with  cold  water, 
stir  a little  of  the  boiling  liquor  into 
it,  and  add  it  to  the  rest.  Let  it  boil 
a short  time  longer.  Half  an  hour 
before  the  soup  is  to  be  served  throw 
into  it  a pinch  of  powdered  mush- 
rooms, six  or  eight  sliced  potatoes ; 
and  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  before  it  is 
served  put  in  half  a dozen  small  dump- 
lings. Add  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 
Serve  the  veal  on  a dish  with  the 


377 


Vegetable  Soup 


SOUPS 


Wine  Soups 


dumplings  and  vegetables  round  it, 
and  send  the  soup  to  table  in  a tureen. 
If  liked,  a little  sugar  browning  may 
be  added  to  the  soup  to  color  it.  Time, 
three  hours  to  simmer  the  soup. 

Vegetable  Soup.  — The  best  soup 
may  be  made  with  little  expense 
when  vegetables  are  plentiful.  What 
remains  of  a roast  will  serve  very  well 
for  a basis,  if  no  piece  of  fresh,  un- 
cooked meat  is  at  hand.  Let  the 
vessel  in  which  you  make  your  soup 
be  provided  with  a close  cover,  and 
allow  yourself  plenty  of  time,  so  that 
the  soup  need  only  simmer  for  five 
or  six  hours,  but  never  boil.  As  the 
water  evaporates,  add  more,  but  al- 
ways let  it  be  boiling  water,  after  the 
first,  which  is  poured  cold  over  the 
meat.  Add  vegetables  according  to 
the  taste  of  your  family.  For  in- 
stance, a quart  of  ripe  tomatoes, 
scalded  and  peeled,  is  not  too  much, 
but  even  two  or  three  make  their 
impression  when  more  cannot  be  ob- 
tained ; a large  handful  of  green  corn, 
cut  from  the  cob ; another  of  young 
tender  okra  ; and  yet  another  of  Irish 
potatoes,  peeled  and  cut  into  small 
pieces  ; and,  lastly,  a handful  of  small 
lima  beans.  Season  cautiously  with 
salt  and  pepper,  remembering  that 
more  can  be  easily  added  at  table. 
In  this  kind  of  soup  a pod  of  red  pep- 
per is  regarded  as  preferable  season- 
ing to  black,  the  pod  not  to  be  broken. 
Stir  the  soup  frequently,  lest  the 
vegetables  stick  to  the  bottom  and 
burn.  Skim  carefully,  and  dish  up 
hot.  In  the  far  South,  where  this 
soup  is  made  to  perfection,  they  let 
the  vegetables  cook  so  thoroughly 
as  to  form  an  indistinguishable  mass, 
and  strain  it,  moreover,  so  that  the 
flavor  is  left  without  their  substance. 

Velvet  Soup. — Cook  some  tapioca 
in  good  stock  or  bouillon,  being  care- 
ful not  to  make  the  liquid  too  thick. 
When  ready,  place  the  yolks  of  eggs 
in  the  soup-tureen,  one  yolk  for  two 
persons.  Then  pour  over  them  the 
tapioca,  stirring  the  whole  so  that  it 
may  become  thoroughly  mixed  and 


uniformly  creamy.  A grain  of  nut- 
meg improves  this  soup. 

Velvet  Soup  Maigre  (made  without 
meat). — Cook  the  tapioca  in  water, 
with  a little  pepper  and  salt.  Put 
into  the  tureen  a lump  of  butter  and 
the  yolks  of  eggs — two  for  three  per- 
sons. Then  pour  over  them  the 
boiling  tapioca.  Stir  up  and  serve. 

Vermicelli  Soup.  See  Nouilles  Soup. 

White  Soup. — Take  three  pints  of 
good  white  stock  entirely  free  from 
fat  and  sediment,  put  it  into  a stew- 
pan,  and  let  it  heat  gently.  Blanch 
2 ozs.  of  sweet  almonds,  and  pound 
them  to  a paste  in  a marble  mortar 
with  a little  water  to  keep  them  from 
oiling.  Mince  and  pound  with  them 
a slice  of  dressed  veal  or  fowl,  and 
add  a table-spoonful  of  stale  bread- 
crumbs and  a-  small  blade  of  mace 
finely  powdered.  When  the  mixture 
is  smooth,  stir  it  very  gradually  into 
a pint  of  cream,  and  add  a pint  of  the 
stock  ; put  into  it  an  inch  of  thin  lemon- 
rind,  and  simmer  over  the  fire  for  a 
few  minutes.  Stir  into  it  as  much 
of  the  stock  as  will  make  it  of  the 
thickness  of  cream,  and  simmer  the 
soup  gently  for  half  an  hour.  Re- 
move the  lemon-rind,  and  serve  the 
soup  with  toasted  sippets.  If  liked, 
arrow -root,  ground  rice,  or  common 
flour  may  be  used  instead  of  the 
almonds ; and,  when  cream  cannot  be 
had,  new  milk  mixed  with  the  yolks 
of  eggs  may  be  used  instead.  The 
egg  should  be  beaten  in  the  soup- 
tureen  ; it  should  be  mixed  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  the  milk,  the  rest  of 
the  milk  (boiling)  should  be  added 
gradually,  and  the  soup  poured  in. 
By  increasing  the  quantities  and  pre- 
serving the  proportions,  a larger  quan- 
tity of  soup  may  be  made.  Time  to 
simmer  the  thickening  in  the  soup, 
half  an  hour. 

Wine  Soups. — Wine  soups,  made 
of  light  German  wine,  are  very  quick- 
ly made.  No.  I. — Dissolve  i oz. 
of  butter  in  a saucepan,  stir  into  it 


378 


Souse,  or  Head-cheese  SPINACH 


Steak,  Hamburg 


briskly  a table-spoonful  of  flour,  and 
beat  the  paste  over  the  fire  till  it  ac- 
quires a little  color.  Stir  into  it  half 
a pint  of  water,  and  add  the  thin  rind 
and  strained  juice  of  half  a fresh 
lemon,  half  a stick  of  cinnamon, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  a 
small  bottle  of  light  wine.  Simmer 
the  soup  for  ten  minutes,  break  three 
eggs  into  the  tureen,  and  froth  them 
lightly.  Mix  them  with  a spoonful 
of  the  soup.  Add  the  rest  gradually, 
and  serve.  No.  2. — Boil  2 ozs.  of  best 
rice  and  the  thin  rind  of  half  a lemon 
in  three-quarters  of  a pint  of  water. 
When  the  rice  is  tender,  mix  with  it 


gradually  a small  bottle  of  wine,  and 
add  as  much  white  sugar  as  will 
sweeten  it  pleasantly.  Break  two 
eggs  into  the  tureen,  mix  with  them 
a spoonful  of  the  soup,  and  serve. 
No.  3.  — Cut  a large  fresh  lemon 
into  thin  slices,  carefully  removing 
the  seeds.  Put  them  into  a tureen, 
cover  with  powered  white  sugar,  and 
add  a teacupful  of  grated  bread- 
crumbs which  have  been  browned  in 
butter.  Mix  a pint  of  wine  with  half 
a pint  of  water.  Sweeten  the  mixture, 
and  bring  it  to  the  point  of  boiling. 
Pour  it  upon  the  slices  of  lemon,  etc.,  let 
them  soak  for  five  minutes,  and  serve. 


Souse,  or  Head-cheese.  See  Pork. 
Southern  Catsup.  See  Pickles. 

Spaghetti.  See  Macaroni. 

Spaghetti  and  Cheese  Fritters. 

See  Fritters. 

Spanish  Cream.  See  Creams. 

Spanish  Custard.  See  Custards. 
Spanish  Mackerel.  See  Fish. 
Spanish  Omelet.  See  Eggs. 

Spanish  Salad.  See  Salads. 

Spanish  Sandwiches. 

See  Sandwiches. 


Spanish  Wind. 
Spice  Cake. 
Spiced  Beef. 


See  Cakes. 
See  Cakes. 
See  Beef. 


Spinach. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  spinach  will  be  found  un- 
der their  respective  headings  as  in- 
dicated : 

Spinach  Fritters.  See  Fritters. 

Salad.  See  Salads. 

..  Souffle.  See  Souffles. 

Cream  of.  See  Soups. 


Spinach,  French  Mode. 

See  Vegetables. 
..  German  Mode. 

..  Puree  of,  with 

Butter.  .. 

..  with  Eggs. 

..  with  Gravy. 


Sponge. 
Sponge  Cake. 


See  Jellies. 
See  Cakes. 


Sponge-cake  Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 


Sprats,  Smoked. 
Spun  Eggs. 


See  Fish. 
See  Eggs. 
See  Game. 


Squabs,  Baked. 

..  in  Halves. 

..  with  Vegetables 


Squash. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  squash  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 


Squash  Fritters. 
Pie. 

Baked. 
Boiled. 
Cakes. 
Fried. 

Squirrel  Soup. 

Steak,  Hamburg. 


See  Fritters. 
See  Pies. 
See  Vegetables. 


See  Soups. 
See  Beef. 


379 


Steaks,  Fish 


S T R A W BERRIES  Sugar,  Clarified 


Steaks,  Fish.  See  Fish. 

Stews.  See  Beef;  Mutton;  Soups. 

Stick  Candy.  See  Candy. 

Sterilized  Milk.  See  Milk. 

Stock  a la  Minute.  See  Soups. 
..  Brown. 

Quickly  Made. 

..  White. 


Strawberry  Sauce. 

Souffle. 

Straws. 

Straws  of  Cheese 
Striped  Bass. 
Stuffed  Eggs. 
Stuffings. 


See  Puddings. 
See  Souffles. 

See  Cakes. 

. See  Cheese. 

See  Fish. 

See  Eggs. 

See  Force-meats. 


Store-closet.  See  Emergencies. 


Strawberries. — The  following  rec- 
ipes for  cooking  strawberries  will  be 
found  under  their  respective  headings 
as  indicated  : 

Strawberries,  Acid.  See  Beverages. 
..  Cordial. 

..  Syrup. 

See  Beverages ; also 
Preserves. 


•• 


•i t 


Blanc-mange. 

See  Blanc-mange 
Short  Cake. 

See  Cakes ; also  Fruits. 
Bavarian  Cream. 

See  Creams. 


Cream. 

Fool.  See  Custards. 
Trifle. 

and  Cream.  See  Fruits, 
and  Rice. 

Compote  of. 

Conserves  of. 

Floating  Island. 

Foam. 

Glaces. 
in  Jelly. 

Meringue. 

Sponge. 

Tapioca. 

See  Fruits ; also 
Puddings. 
Ice.  See  Ices. 

Ice-cream. 

Mousse. 

Parfait. 

Sherbet. 

Jam.  See  Preserves. 
Preserved. 

Dumpling.  See  Puddings 
Pudding. 


Sturgeon.  — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  sturgeon  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Sturgeon  a la  Cardinal.  See  Fish. 


ct  let  JA.US5C* 

Cutlets. 

Fried. 

Grilled. 

,«  Sauce  for. 

,.  Stewed. 

Succotash.  See  Beans  (Lima) , under 
Vegetables. 

Suet  Dumpling.  See  Puddings. 

Suet  Force-meat  Balls. 

See  Force-meats. 

Suet  Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

Suet,  To  Clarify,  for  Frying.  — 

Chop  the  suet  roughly,  free  it  from 
skin  and  fibre,  and  melt  it  in  the 
oven.  Pour  the  fat  off  frequently 
as  it  melts.  Or  put  the  minced  suet 
into  a saucepan  with  plenty  of  boiling 
water,  and  keep  it  boiling  until  it  is 
dissolved.  Pour  the  liquor  into  a ba- 
sin, and  when  it  is  cold  take  the  cake 
of  fat  from  the  top.  Melt  it  again, 
strain  it  through  muslin,  keep  back 
the  sediment,  and  the  fat  will  be  fit 
for  use.  Clarified  suet  is  excellent  for 
making  plain  pastry,  and  also  for  bast- 
ing and  frying  purposes. 

Sugar,  Clarified,  for  Fresh -water 
Ices.  — Put  2 lbs.  of  white  sugar  in 
a saucepan  with  two  pints  of  cold 
water.  Let  the  sugar  dissolve,  then 
add  a teaspoonful  of  white  of  egg 


380 


Sultana  Jelly 


SWEETBREADS  Sweetbreads,  Broiled 


lightly  beaten.  As  the  scum  rises 
take  it  off,  and  keep  the  sugar  boiling 
until  the  scum  ceases  to  rise.  When 
it  is  quite  clear,  strain  it  through 
muslin,  and  it  will  be  fit  for  use.  If 
liked,  it  may  be  put  into  a bottle  and 
closely  stoppered.  It  will  keep  for 
some  time.  Time  to  boil,  ten  min- 
utes. 


Sultana  Jelly. 
Summer  Salad. 
Sunshine  Cake. 
Sunshiny  Eggs. 
Supreme  Sauce. 


See  Jellies. 
See  Salads. 
See  Cake. 
See  Eggs. 
See  Sauces. 


SWEET 

Sweetbreads.— Soak  in  cold  water 
at  least  an  hour,  changing  the  water 
three  or  four  times.  When  they  are 
perfectly  white  they  are  ready  for 
cooking.  Put  them  in  cold  water 
and  let  it  gradually  heat  to  a simmer ; 
keep  simmering  twenty  minutes. 
Then  blanch  by  putting  them  in  ice- 
water.  Drain,  remove  all  pipes  and 
fibres  possible,  tie  them  up  in  a cloth, 
and  put  a little  weight  on  them  until 
they  are  cold. 

Sweetbreads  with  Asparagus  Tips. 

— Put  in  lukewarm  water  for  one 
hour  three  pairs  of  large  sweetbreads. 
Remove  all  the  fat  and  skin  with  the 
utmost  care  ; do  not  leave  the  slightest 
particle  of  them;  this  is  a very  im- 
portant point.  Rinse  them  well  in 
cold  water,  and  put  them  in  a sauce- 
pan with  two  quarts  of  cold  water, 
one  good  - sized  onion,  sliced,  two 
cloves,  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  one 
bay-leaf,  one-half  table-spoonful  of 
salt.  Boil  ten  minutes,  remove,  and 
plunge  them  in  cold  water.  Drain 
well  and  put  them  in  a flat  sauce- 
pan with  one-half  pint  of  good  beef 
broth.  Cook  them  over  a slow  fire 
until  all  the  broth  is  absorbed ; turn 
them  over  once,  taking  care  not  to 
break  them.  They  must  become  of  a 
light  - brown  color.  Add  again  two 
gills  of  broth  ; cook  till  reduced  to  half  ; 
place  the  sweetbreads  on.  a warm 
platter.  Procure  one  jar  or  can  of 
the  best  asparagus  tips,  remove  them 
with  care,  and  dip  them  one  by  one  in 
cold  water.  Lay  them  on  a clean 

38 


BREADS 

napkin  to  drain.  Cut  them  two 
inches  long,  and  put,  just  long  enough 
to  warm,  in  the  gravy  remaining 
irom  the  sweetbreads.  Arrange  them 
on  one  side  of  the  platter.  Remove 
the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  and  add 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  fresh  butter. 
vStir  well  with  the  gravy,  and  pour  it 
over  the  sweetbreads.  Serve  very  hot. 

Sweetbreads,  Broiled,  with  Dux- 
elles  Sauce. — Soak  two  large  pairs  of 
sweetbreads;  remove  skin  and  pipes 
and  leave  them  in  cold  water  for  one 
hour.  Put  in  a saucepan  two  quarts 
of  water  with  one  sliced  onion,  four 
sprigs  of  parsley,  two  cloves,  half  a 
bay-leaf,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Boil  for  five  minutes ; drain  the  sweet- 
breads, and  put  them  in;  boil  slowly 
for  twelve  minutes.  Drain  again 
and  leave  them  in  a bowl  of  cold  water 
until  cold ; then  dry  them  with  a 
clean  towel;  put  them  between  two 
platters  with  a weight  over;  this  for 
one  hour.  Then  cut  them  in  two 
lengthwise,  in  order  to  make  a flat 
surface.  Melt  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
good  butler.  Sprinkle  each  sweet- 
bread with  one  salt-spoonful  of  salt 
and  half  a one  of  pepper.  Roll  them 
well  in  the  melted  butter  and  after- 
wards in  fine  white  bread-crumbs 
freshly  made.  Broil  them  five  min- 
utes on  each  side,  and  serve  on  a hot 
platter.  The  sauce  Duxelles  must 
be  prepared  beforehand  : Remove  the 
stems  of  four  large  mushrooms  ; 
peel  and  wash  the  stems  and  chop 
them.  Chop  separately  one  table- 


Croquettes  of 


SWEETBREADS 


A la  Newburg 


spoonful  of  parsley  and  half  a one  of 
shallots  or  green  onions.  Put  half  a 
table-spoonful  of  butter  in  a small 
saucepan ; when  melted  put  the  shal- 
lots in ; cook  three  minutes,  tossing 
them.  Add  the  chopped  mushrooms 
and  parsley ; cook  three  minutes 
more,  stirring  meanwhile.  Add  one 
teaspoonful  of  flour ; stir  again  for 
two  minutes,  and  add  slowly  half  a 
gill  of  good  broth.  Cook  six  minutes 
more,  but  slowly.  Remove  to  the 
side  of  the  fire,  and  add  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  fresh  butter;  do  not  cook  any 
more.  Peel  the  mushrooms ; wash 
and  dry  them,  sprinkle  over  a few 
grains  of  salt  and  pepper,  roll  them 
in  a little  melted  butter,  and  broil 
them  four  minutes,  top  first ; turn 
them  over ; fill  with  the  Duxelles 
sauce.  Put  on  top  of  each  one  slice 
of  marrow  previously  prepared,  and 
serve  very  hot  around  the  sweet- 
breads. Spread  over  the  sweetbreads 
the  remainder  of  the  sauce.  To  pre- 
pare the  marrow,  crack,  but  do  not 
separate,  two  nice  fresh  marrow-bones, 
and  put  them  in  a bowl  of  cold  water 
for  one  hour.  Put  them  afterwards 
in  a small  saucepan;  cover  them 
entirely  with  broth,  and  cook  very 
slowly  for  twenty  minutes ; drain 
them ; cool  them  off,  and  open  the 
bones  carefully  in  order  to  avoid 
leaving  small  pieces  of  bone  in  the 
marrow.  The  marrow  will  be  easily 
detached  in  one  piece  and  be  very 
white. 

Sweetbreads,  Croquettes  of. — Take 
a cold  dressed  sweetbread,  cut  it  into 
quarter-inch  dice,  and  mix  with  it 
its  bulk  in  mushrooms  which  have 
been  cut  in  the  same  way.  Stir  both 
together  over  a gentle  fire  in  some 
very  thick  white  sauce,  and  pour  the 
mixture  upon  a dish.  When  quite 
cold,  divide  the  mixture  into  portions 
of  an  equal  size,  roll  these  to  the 
shape  of  balls  <£r  corks,  dip  them  in 
egg  beaten  up  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
oil,  and  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs. 
Fry  in  hot  fat  till  they  are  crisp  and 
lightly  browned,  drain  them  thorough- 
ly, serve  op  a hot  napkin,  and  garnish 


with  parsley.  Time,  ten  minutes  to 
fry  the  croquettes. 

Sweetbreads  a la  Fontainebleau. — 

Wash  a pair  of  fine  sweetbreads ; 
blanch,  by  throwing  them  into  boil- 
ing water  and  letting  them  cook  for 
five  minutes.  Plunge  at  once  into 
ice-water ; leave  them  thus  for  five 
minutes  ; wipe  dry,  and  set  on  ice  until 
cold  and  firm.  With  a sharp  knife 
split  each  lengthwise ; scoop  about  a 
teaspoonful  of  meat  from  the  inside 
of  each  half,  leaving  a cavity  in  the 
centre.  Fill  this  with  a force-meat 
made  of  the  extracted  meat  chopped 
fine,  and  equal  parts  of  boiled  and 
mashed  chestnuts  and  minced  mush- 
rooms. Season  with  butter,  paprika, 
salt,  a pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  onion-juice.  Press  the 
halves  thus  stuffed  firmly  together, 
bind  with  soft  pack-thread ; run  a 
very  slender  skewer  through  to  hold 
it  the  more  securely,  and  lay  upon  the 
grating  of  your  dripping-pan  or 
roaster.  Under  each  sweetbread  put 
a thin  slice  of  corned  ham  or  of  fat 
salt  pork.  Pour  about  them  a cupful 
of  weak  stock ; sprinkle  with  pepper 
and  salt,  lay  a dot  of  butter  on  each ; 
cover  closely  and  cook  half  an  hour. 
Turn  the  sweetbreads,  then  baste 
well  with  the  gravy  in  the  pan ; cover 
and  cook  for  ten  minutes  longer. 
Uncover,  baste  again  freely,  dredge 
with  flour,  and  brown.  Take  up  the 
sweetbreads,  dish,  and  keep  hot  over 
boiling  water  while  you  make  the 
gravy.  Thicken  that  in  the  dripping- 
pan  with  browned  flour ; add  a little 
lemon-juice  and  a teaspoonful  of 
kitchen  bouquet,  boil  up  once,  pour 
a few  spoonfuls  over  the  sweetbreads, 
the  rest  into  a boat.  Serve  green 
pease  with  this  dish. 

Sweetbread  a la  Newburg. — Soak 
in  the  usual  way,  then  parboil  a sweet- 
bread in  salted  water  flavored  with 
lemon  - juice  for  twenty  minutes. 
Bleach  it  in  ice-water.  Drain,  pick 
it  into  pieces,  and  place  in  a chafing- 
dish  over  hot  water.  Add  one  table- 
spoonful of  butter  and  four  table- 


382 


Sweetbreads  S W EET  POTATOES 


Syrups 


spoonfuls  of  cream.  Season  with 
mace,  salt,  and  paprika.  When  boil- 
ing hot,  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  two 
eggs  and  stir  until  the  sauce  is  thick. 
Just  before  serving  add  one  table- 
spoonful of  sherry. 

Sweetbreads,  Vol-au-vent  of. — 

Soak,  parboil,  and  blanch  two  large 
sweetbreads.  When  cool,  dry  them, 
cut  into  small  pieces,  and  dredge  flour 
upon  them.  Melt  2 ozs,  of  butter 
in  a saucepan,  put  in  the  pieces  of 
sweetbread,  and  add  the  third  of  a 
pint  of  white  stock,  the  strained  juice 
of  a lemon,  two  table  - spoonfuls  of 
sherry  or  Madiera,  a bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  the  thin  rind  of  half  a lemon, 


half  a blade  of  mace,  two  cloves, 
and  a little  pepper,  salt,  and  grated 
nutmeg.  Let  the  sauce  boil  up  once, 
skim  it,  and  let  the  sweetbreads  sim- 
mer gently  until  done  enough.  Take 
them  up,  strain  the  sauce,  and  mix 
with  it  gradually  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  beaten  up  with  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  cream.  Stir  the  sauce  over 
the  fire  for  a minute  or  two,  but  do 
not  let  it  boil.  Make  a vol-au-vent 
case  four  inches  in  diameter.  Bake 
it  until  done  enough,  scoop  out  the 
centre,  and  fill  it  with  the  mince. 
Serve  the  vol-au-vent  very  hot  on  a 
neatly  folded  napkin.  Mushrooms 
and  browned  potato  balls  may  be 
added  to  the  preparation. 


Sweet  Cakes.  See  Cakes. 

Sweet  Potatoes.  — The  following 
recipes  for  cooking  sweet  potatoes  will 
be  found  under  their  respective  head- 
ings as  indicated  : 

Sweet-potato  Pie.  See  Pies. 

Pudding.  See  Puddings. 
Buttered.  SeeVegetables. 
Cakes. 

Croquettes. 

..  ..  Surprise. 

Sweet  Sauces.  See  Puddings. 


Swiss  Eggs.  See  Eggs. 

Syllabub  gives  a nice  finish  to  many 
dessert  dishes,  and  when  called  for  in 
these  recipes  should  be  made  thus  : 
To  half  a pint  of  rich  cream  add  half 
a gill  of  sweet  wine  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  finely  powdered  white 
sugar,  and  flavor  with  lemon ; whip 
to  a froth,  lightly  removing  with  a 
spoon  the  foam  thus  formed  to  the 
dish  requiring  to  be  ornamented. 

Syrups.  See  Beverages ; also  Fruits. 


Tea  Puffs. 


See  Cakes. 


T 


Tables  of  Weights  and  Measures 

and  Time-tables  for  cooking,  see  in- 
side cover  pages. 

Taffy.  See  Candy. 

Tamis.  — A tamis  is  a worsted 
cloth  made  on  purpose  for  straining 
sauces.  It  comes  in  different  weaves  : 
a very  coarse  one  for  straining  chopped 
almonds,  raisins,  etc. ; a medium  one 
for  purees,  marmalades,  etc. ; and  a 
fine  one  for  flour,  sugar,  and  purees. 
The  best  way  to  use  it  is  for  two 
people  to  twist  it  contrary  ways. 
This  is  a better  way  of  straining  sauce 
than  passing  it  through  a sieve,  and 
refines  it  much  more  completely. 
This  word  is  frequently  spelled  Tam- 
mey  or  Tammy. 


Tapioca. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  tapioca  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Tapioca  Cream.  See  Creams. 

Custard.  See  Custards. 

Pudding.  See  Puddings. 

..  with  Apples. 

Cream  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Tartar  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Tartare  Sandwiches. 

See  Sandwiches. 

Tarts  and  Tartlets.  See  Pies. 


Tea,  Beef. 

Tea  Cakes. 

Tea,  Iced. 

..  Punch. 


See  Beef. 
See  Cakes. 
See  Beverages. 


Tea  Ice-cream. 


See  Ices. 


T errapin.  — Allow  the  terrapins  to 
move  about  in  lukewarm  water  for  a 
few  moments,  wash  them  thoroughly, 
then  plunge  them  into  boilirfg  water. 
Boil  until  tender — the  small  ones  from 
twenty  minutes  to  half  an  hour,  the 
larger  sometimes  as  long  as  an  hour 
and  a quarter.  Take  out  and  let 
them  drain  a little.  To  open,  lay 
on  their  backs,  heads  from  you,  in  a 
large  bowl,  to  save  the  gravy.  Re- 
move the  shells,  nails,  head,  tail, 
heart,  lungs,  entrails,  the  skin  from 
the  legs,  the  white  muscles,  the  sand- 
bags and  gall,  being  very  careful  not 
to  break  the  latter.  Separate  the 
meat  and  cut  up  very  fine.  Place  all 
in  a ste wing-kettle,  barely  cover  with 
boiling  water,  and  let  it  boil  half  an 
hour.  Dressing : For  two  large  or 
five  small  ones,  mash  yolks  of  three 
hard-boiled  eggs  with  l/t  lb.  of  butter, 
one  even  table-spoonful  of  salt,  one 
teaspoonful  of  red  Jersey  peppers,  or 
half-salt-spoonful  of  cayenne,  three 
scant  table  - spoonfuls  of  browned 
flour,  and  three-quarters  of  a pint  of 
cream.  Stir  until  smooth  and  the 
ingredients  thoroughly  mixed.  Put 
the  dressing  into  the  prepared  ter- 
rapin, simmer  slowly  fifteen  minutes, 
stirring  frequently.  If  not  sufficiently 
thick,  add  more  flour;  if  too  thick, 
a little  boiling  water.  Serve  very  hot 
in  a covered  dish,  adding  a wineglass- 
ful of  sherry,  if  desired,  as  you  send 
the  dish  to  the  table. 

Terrapin,  Creamed. — Make  a white 
sauce,  using  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  pint  of 
cream,  one  salt  - spoonful  of  white 


384 


Terrapin  Salad 


THICKENINGS  Things  to  Remember 


pepper,  one  salt-spoonful  of  grated 
nutmeg,  speck  of  cayenne.  When 
the  sauce  is  smooth  and  creamy 
put  in  one  pint  of  terrapin  meat,  and 
stir  until  .scalding  hot,  then  draw 
saucepan  to  one  side  of  the  fire,  where 
its  contents  will  not  boil,  and  stir  in 
the  well -beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs. 
Do  not  allow  it  to  boil  after  adding 
eggs,  but  pour  at  once  into  a tureen 
containing  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon- 
juice  and  one  gill  of  Madeira  wine. 

T errapin  Salad.  — Rub  the  yolks 
of  six  hard  - boiled  eggs  smooth  in 
Vz  lb.  of  butter.  When  light  and 
creamy  add  one  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half-teaspoon- 
ful  of  white  pepper,  one  pinch  of 
cayenne,  and  the  meat  of  three  boiled 
terrapins,  minced  fine ; cook  five  min- 
utes, remove  from  fire,  add  a small 
glassful  of  sherry,  and  take  out  on 
lettuce  leaves.  Garnish  with  water- 
cress and  slices  of  boiled  eggs. 

Thickenings,  brown,  white,  simple, 
quickly  made,  egg,  butter,  etc.  See 
Gravies. 

Things  to  Remember.— The  tables 
of  weights  and  measures,  proportions, 
time  - tables  for  cooking  various  ar- 
ticles, which  are  printed  on  the  inside 
covers  of  this  book.  Of  course,  the 
time-tables  are  general  directions  only, 
much  depending  on  whether  anthra- 
cite coal,  bituminous  coal,  wood,  oil,  or 
gas  is  used,  and  also  subject  to  modi- 
fications owing  to  the  differences  in 
the  various  ranges  and  ovens. 

Flour  should  always  be  sifted,  and 
never  beaten,  as  beating  flour  makes 
it  heavy. 

Bread  - crumbs.  — Use  stale  bread 
and  a coarse  grater  for  the  soft  part. 
The  crust,  if  too  hard  to  grate,  should 
be  dried,  reduced  to  fine  crumbs,  and 
sifted.  Use  the  crust  crumbs  for 
breading,  and  the  softer  crumbs  for 
dressings  and  scallop  dishes.  Keep 
the  crumbs  in  glass  jars. 

Meats  and  Game  should  not  be 
washed ; if  cleansing  is  necessary, 
use  a wet  cloth.  Never  pierce  meats 
25 


while  cooking,  or  the  juices  will  escape. 
But  for  stews,  etc.,  put  the  meat  on  in 
cold  water  and  gradually  heat  so  that 
the  juices  may  be  extracted.  If  the 
meat  is  put  on  in  boiling  water  a 
coating  is  formed  which  assists  in 
confining  all  the  juices  of  the  meat. 

V egetables. — Green  vegetables  should 
be  first  washed  in  cold  water  and  then 
be  put  into  fast-boiling,  salted  water, 
and  should  be  quickly  boiled  in  un- 
covered vessels.  But  in  soups,  etc., 
where  the  water  is  not  to  be  thrown 
away,  put  the  vegetables  on  in  cold 
water.  Potatoes  should  be  put  in 
plenty  of  boiling  water  and  boiled 
slowly,  and  finished  by  cooking  in 
their  own  steam. 

Eggs  are  beaten  to  make  them  light. 
A pinch  of  salt  added  to  the  white  of 
eggs  facilitates  the  beating.  Break 
each  egg  separately  in  a cup  or  sau- 
cer, so  as  to  be  able  to  reject  it  if  it 
is  not  satisfactory.  When  adding  the 
whipped  white  of  egg  to  any  sub- 
stance, do  not  beat  it  in,  but  fold  it 
in  carefully  with  a knife  or  a spoon. 

Milk  is  scalded  in  a double  boiler  as 
soon  as  the  water  in  the  lower  pan  is 
boiling. 

When  sour  milk  or  molasses  is 
used,  cream  of  tartar  or  baking-powder 
is  omitted,  and  soda  only  is  used. 

Butter,  as  well  as  milk,  quickly 
absorbs  flavors  from  other  articles. 
Therefore  keep  both  in  tightly  closed 
vessels  in  the  refrigerator. 

Meats.  — Use  left-over  meats  in  mak- 
ing croquettes,  etc.,  or  the  trimmings 
and  bones  can  be  made  into  stock  for 
use  the  next  day. 

Stock. — Comparatively  few  families 
succeed  in  keeping  a continuous 
stock-pot.  But  the  use  of  the  scraps 
of  meat  and  the  bones  left  over  one 
day  to  make  stock  for  immediate  use 
the  next  day  is  growing  constantly. 

Fruits. — Fruits  almost  ripe  are  best 
for  preserving.  If  over-ripe,  stew  them 
at  once. 

Fat. — Clarify  all  drippings,  beef  fat, 
the  fat  taken  from  soup,  and  keep  in 
a jar  for  frying  (immersing).  The 
fat  from  mutton,  salt  and  smoked 
meat,  turkeys,  etc.,  should  be  kept 


385 


Thyme 


TIMBALES 


Macaroni  Timbale 


separate  for  use  in  frying  (sauteing). 
Goose  fat  is  used  in  Germany  for 
potato  salad. 

Thyme.  — Thyme  is  a herb  much 
valued  on  account  of  its  strong, 
pungent,  aromatic  odor  and  taste. 
Three  varieties  are  used  in  cookery 
— common  thyme,  lemon  thyme,  and 
orange  thyme.  A very  little  is  valu- 
able for  flavoring  when  judiciously 
used. 

Timbales. — So  named  from  timbale, 
a metal  cup,  because  they  are  generally 
made  in  plain  moulds,  either  round 
or  oval.  They  are  excellent  and 
pretty,  but  require  both  care  and 
practice  to  make  them  properly.  The 
outer  case  may  be  constructed  of  short 
paste,  macaroni,  rice,  cream  force- 
meats, or  quenelle  force-meats,  and 
they  may  be  filled  with  any  richly 
flavored  meat,  fish,  fowl,  or  game. 
The  pastry  fining  is  omitted  when 
cream  force-meats  and  quenelle  force- 
meats are  used.  For  these  the  dariole 
moulds  are  well  buttered  and  then 
fined  <vith  truffles,  tongue,  pistachios, 
etc.,  cut  into  fanciful  shapes.  The 
moulds  are  further  fined  by  the  force- 
meat and  then  filled  up  with  salpi- 
cons  or  other  force  - meats.  When 
filled  they  are  ready  for  poaching — 
that  is,  the  moulds  are  placed  in  a pan 
of  boiling  water  to  half  the  height  of 
the  moulds.  Draw  from  the  fire  at 
once  and  place  pan  with  the  moulds 
in  a slack  oven.  Do  not  let  the  wa- 
ter boil.  Keep  in  the  oven  for  ten 
or  fifteen  minutes,  if  the  moulds  are 
small ; for  twenty  or  twenty-five  min- 
utes if  a large  mould  is  used.  Un- 
mould on  the  dish  on  which  they  are 
to  be  served. 

Cream  Force-meat  for  Timbales. — 
Scrape  the  white  meat  of  chicken  or 
turkey  to  remove  the  sinews.  Pound 
the  meat  in  a mortar,  adding  gradu- 
ally the  white,  of  an  egg,  until  it  is 
a smooth  paste.  Strain  this  paste 
through  a puree  sieve,  season  the  meat 
pulp  with  salt  and  pepper,  place  the 
pan  on  a block  of  ice,  and  stir  in  gradu- 
ally a cupful  of  cream.  Beat  this  with 


a whip.  To  know  when  it  is  done, 
drop  a little  of  the  paste  into  hot  (not 
boiling)  water.  If  at  the  end  of  ten 
minutes  the  sample  when  cut  through 
is  smooth  and  firm  the  paste  is  ready 
for  the  mould.  If  the  paste  is  too  thick, 
thin  with  cream ; if  too  thin,  add  a little 
whipped  white  of  an  egg.  Keep  in  a 
cold  place  until  used. 

Quenelle  Force-meats  are  prepared 
in  the  same  way  as  cream  force-meats, 
excepting  that  one  - half  as  much 
panada  as  of  meat  putp  is  mixed  in 
and  a little  butter  is  added. 

Timbale,  Chicken. — Make  a cream 
force-meat  and  fill  the  timbales  with 
salpicon  of  chicken.  To  make  this 
take  a pint  of  cooked  chicken  cut  into 
very  small  dice.  Take  half  a pint 
of  cream  and  bring  it  to  a boil,  add 
to  this  half  a pint  of  unboiled  cream 
into  which  a heaping  table-spoonful 
of  flour  has  been  stirred  into  a paste. 
Let  the  pint  of  mixed  cream  and  flour 
boil  one  or  two  minutes,  then  add  the 
pint  of  chicken,  half  a cupful  of  mush- 
rooms cut  into  small  dice,  with  a little 
salt  and  pepper  as  seasoning.  Fill 
the  moulds  with  this  and  on  the  top 
cover  with  cream  force-meat,  keeping 
the  top  level.  Then  poach  as  directed 
above. 

Timbale  of  Macaroni. — Put  x/i  lb. 

of  macaroni  in  a stewpan  with  three 
pints  of  boiling  water  and  a little 
pepper  and  salt.  Be  careful  not  to 
break  it  into  shorter  pieces  than  will 
go  around  the  inside  of  the  moulds. 
Let  it  simmer  gently  for  twenty  min- 
utes, then  drain  it,  put  it  back  with 
half  a pint  of  broth,  and  let  it  simmer 
twenty  minutes  longer.  Cover  the 
inside  of  thickly  buttered  moulds  with 
it  quite  closely  and  neatly.  Spaghetti 
can  be  used  in  place  of  macaroni. 
Begin  at  the  bottom  and  wind  it 
around  spirally  until  the  top  of  the 
mould  is  reached.  Spread  over  the 
macaroni  a little  good  force  - meat 
seasoned  suitably  to  whatever  is  to 
constitute  the  contents  of  the  timbale, 
and  afterwards  fill  up  the  mould  with 
a highly  seasoned  mince  of  game  or 


386 


Timbales  of  Eggs 


TOMATOES 


Tripe,  Broiled 


poultry.  Moisten  with  good  sauce, 
cover  over  the  preparation,  and  poach 
as  usual. 

Timbales  of  Eggs.  See  Eggs. 

Timbales,  Sweetbread. — Line  the 
moulds  with  a quenelle  force-meat. 
For  the  filling  take  4 ozs.  each  of 
cooked  sweetbreads  and  cooked  lean 
ham,  both  cut  into  dice.  Put  I oz. 
of  butter  in  a saucepan ; add  t/z  oz.  of 
onion  cut  up  very  small ; in  this  brown 
2 ozs.  of  mushrooms,  also  cut  very 
small.  In  another  saucepan  boil 
half  a pint  of  cream  and  stir  in  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  add  salt  and 
pepper.  Pour  this  at  once  on  the 
mushrooms,  and  let  the  whole  simmer 
from  three  to  five  minutes.  Poach 
as  directed  on  preceding  page.  Serve 
with  a brown  sauce.  Or  the  ham  may 
be  omitted,  using  double  the  quantity 
of  sweetbread,  in  which  case  serve 
with  a rich,  white,  bechamel  sauce. 

Titellis  Macaroni.  See  Macaroni. 

Toast,  Buttered.  See  Bread. 

Dry. 

Egg.  See  Eggs. 

Toast  for  Roast  Game.  — Toast 
a slice  of  bread  the  third  of  an  inch 
thick  till  it  is  brightly  browned  on 
both  sides.  Cut  off  the  crust,  hold 
it  over  a bowl  of  boiling  water  for  a 
minute  to  imbibe  the  steam,  and 
butter  it  well.  Soak  it  in  the  dripping 
in  the  pan  under  the  birds,  and  when 
these  are  ready,  serve  them  upon  it. 


Tomato  Pickles. 
Soy. 
for  Pies. 
..  Canned. 
..  Figs. 

..  Preserve. 
..  Salad. 

..  Sauce. 


See  Pickles. 

See  Pies. 
See  Preserves. 


See  Salads. 
See  Sauces ; also 
Vegetables. 
See  Souffles. 
See  Soups. 


Souffle. 

Bisque. 

Soup, 
a la  Frangaise. 

See  Vegetables. 


..  a la  Mode. 

..  and  Sweet  Corn. 

..  and  Okra 

..  au  Gratin. 

..  Baked. 

..  Broiled. 

..  Curried. 

..  Devilled. 

..  Pie. 

..  Portuguese. 

..  Puree. 

..  Raw. 

..  Stewed  Whole. 

..  Stuffed. 


with  Ham. 


..  Toast. 


Tongue,  Beef.  See  Beef. 

..  ..  Smoked  a la 

Marigold. 

..  ..  with  Aspic 

Jelly. 

..  Toast  Beef. 

Tortoni  Biscuit.  See  Ices. 

Transparent  Puffs.  See  Cakes. 


Tom  Thumb  Pickles.  See  Pickles.  Trifle. 


See  Custards. 


Tomatoes. — The  following  recipes 
for  cooking  tomatoes  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Tomato  Wine.  See  Beverages. 

' ..  and  Green  Peppers 

Omelet.  See  Eggs. 

..  Omelet. 

..  Jelly.  See  Jellies. 

Butter.  See  Pickles. 

Catsup. 


Tripe  should  be  soaked  in  salt  and 
water,  then  thoroughly  washed,  and 
again  put  into  water  and  allowed  to 
simmer  until  it  is  very  tender.  When 
the  tripe  becomes  cold  prepare  it  in 
any  way  desired.  Honeycomb  tripe 
will  not  require  so  much  cooking  as 
the  plain. 

Tripe,  Broiled.  — Use  the  thicker 
part  of  the  tripe.  Honeycomb  is  the 
387 


Tripe  a la  Lyonnaise 


TROUT 


Turkeys 


best.  Sprinkle  it  with  salt  and  pepper, 
rub  with  melted  butter,  and  dredge 
with  flour  before  laying  it  upon  a 
broiler  and  lightly  browning  each  side 
over  a clear  fire.  Put  the  tripe  on  a 
hot  platter  and  pour  a little  melted 
butter  over  it.  Serve  at  once,  garnish- 
ed with  parsley  and  sliced  lemon. 
When  tripe  has  been  in  pickle  and  is 
to  be  broiled  it  should  be  rinsed  in 
cold  water  and  stewed  in  part  milk 
and  part  water  before  it  is  seasoned 
and  broiled. 

Tripe  a la  Lyonnaise.  — Wash 
in  cold  water  2 lbs.  of  nice  white 
honeycomb  tripe.  Put  two  quarts  of 
water  in  a saucepan  with  one  tea- 
spoonful of  salt;  when  boiling  put 
in  the  tripe,  let  it  boil  slowly  for  ten 
minutes,  drain  and  dry  with  a clean 
towel.  Cut  it  in  narrow  strips  one 
inch  in  length.  Put  in  a saucepan 
one  table-spoonful  of  butter  and  two 
of  olive  oil.  or  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter.  When  hot  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  white  onions  cut  in  very 
thin  slices,  cook  eight  minutes  very 
slowly  till  it  becomes  of  a golden  color. 
Add  the  tripe,  cook  slowly,  stirring 
from  time  to  time  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Season  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  salt  - spoonful  of  black  pepper, 
quarter  of  one  of  red  pepper,  one  table- 
spoonful of  parsley,  and  at  the  very 
last  one  table-spoonful  of  wine  vine- 
gar. 

Tripe  a la  Newburg.  — Cut  a pint 
of  the  boiled  tripe  into  inch  squares. 
Make  the  sauce  of  four  table -spoon- 
fuls of  butter;  put  it  in  a pan  over 
a moderate  fire.  When  the  butter  is 
melted,  put  in  the  tripe  and  let  it  cook 
slowly  five  minutes  before  adding  three 
table  - spoonfuls  of  sherry  and  one  of 
brandy;  salt  and  cayenne  pepper  to 
taste.  Let  the  mixture  simmer  five 
minutes  longer,  then  put  in  the  yolks 
of  three  eggs,  which  have  been 
beaten  light,  and  stir  in  half  a pint 
of  cream.  As  soon  as  it  is  heated 
through,  and  the  eggs  are  set,  re- 
move from  the  fire  and  serve  as  soon 
as  possible. 


Tripe,  Southern  Way. — Put  into  a 
saucepan  a piece  of  butter  the  size 
of  a small  egg,  and  when  the  butter  is 
melted  add  an  onion  cut  into  small 
pieces  and  cook  until  it  is  browned; 
then  stir  in  a spoonful  of  flour.  Grad- 
ually add  a cupful  of  stock  and  one 
of  stewed  tomatoes.  Add  the  tripe 
cut  into  small  squares  and  season 
highly  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a little 
curry  powder.  As  soon  as  hot  it  is 
ready  to  serve. 

Tripe,  Stewed. — For  one  cupful  of 
cut  cooked  tripe  put  one  table-spoonful 
of  butter  in  a frying-pan  and  stir  into 
it  a table-spoonful  of  flour.  Stir  until 
it  is  frothy  and  cooked,  but  not  brown- 
ed. Add  slowly  half  a pint  of  milk, 
stirring  all  the  while.  Season  with 
half  a teaspoonful  of  onion  - juice, 
some  salt  and  cayenne  pepper.  Then 
add  the  tripe,  and  toss  it  in  the  sauce 
until  it  is  heated  through ; then  serve. 

Trout,  Broiled.  See  Fish. 

..  Fried. 

..  in  Shells. 

..  Salad. 

Truffles.  See  Vegetables. 

Turbot  a la  Bechamel.  See  Fish. 
..  k la  Cr6me. 

..  Boiled. 

..  Broiled. 

Turkeys. — The  following  recipes  for 
cooking  turkeys  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Turkey,  Force-meat  for. 

See  Force-meats. 

..  Roast  Wild.  See  Game. 

..  Boneless.  See  Poultry. 

..  Broiled. 

..  Galantine  of. 

..  Minced. 

..  Roasted. 

..  Sauces  for. 

..  Stuffing. 

..  with  Chestnut  Stuf- 

fing. 

..  Salad.  See  Salads. 

„ Soup.  See  Soups 


Turnips 


TURTLE 


Tutti-frutti  Ice-cream 


Turnips. — The  folic  wing  recipes  for 
cooking  turnips  will  be  found  under 

their  respective  headings  as  indi- 

cated : 

Turnips,  Boiled.  See  Vegetables. 
..  cried. 

..  Mashed. 

..  Puree  of. 

..  Stewed  in  Butter.  .. 

..  Stewed  in  Gravy.  .. 

..  Stuffed. 

..  Tops. 

Turnip-tops  Salad.  See  Salads. 
Turnover  Cakes.  See  Bread. 


Turret  Ice-cream.  See  Ices. 

T urtle.  — The  green  turtle  is  the 
variety  used  in  making  the  celebrated 
turtle  soup.  This  soup  is  so  difficult 
to  prepare  properly,  and  so  expensive, 
that  it  is  seldom  made  in  private 
houses.  It  can  be  bought  ready 
made  in  all  the  larger  cities. 

Turtle,  Mock,  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Turtle-soup  Force-meat  Balls. 

See  Force-meats. 

Tutti-frutti  Ice-cream.  See  Ices. 


V 


Vanilla.  — Vanilla  flavor  is  used  to 
impart  an  agreeable  odor  to  creams, 
ices,  custards,  coffee,  etc.  The  essence 
is  the  form  in  which  it  is  generally 
used.  The  following  recipes  in  which 
vanilla  is  used  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 


Vanilla  Custard. 

See  Custards. 

..  Ice-cream. 

See  Ices. 

..  Mousse. 

..  Parfait. 

..  Pudding. 

See  Puddings. 

..  Sauce. 

.. 

VEAL 


Veal  is  best  when  the  animal  is 
from  two  to  three  months  old.  The 
finest  calves  have  the  smallest  kid- 
neys, and  when  the  veal  is  good  these 
are  well  covered  with  fat.  Veal,  like 
all  young  meat,  has  a tendency  to 
turn  very  quickly.  It  is  both  un- 
palatable and  most  unwholesome 
when  it  is  at  all  tainted,  and  it  can- 
not be  recovered,  as  brown  meats 
sometimes  are,  by  the  use  of  charcoal. 
If  eaten  quite  fresh  it  is  apt  to  be  a 
little  tough.  If  there  is  any  danger 
of  the  veal  becoming  tainted,  wash  it, 
and  put  it  into  boiling  water  for  ten 
minutes.  Plunge  it  into  cold  water 
till  cool,  wipe  it  dry,  and  put  it  into  the 
coolest  place  that  can  be  found.  Al- 
though veal  can  be  obtained  all  the 
year  round,  it  is  best  from  May  to 
September.  No  meat  is  more  gener- 
ally useful  for  making  soups  and 
gravies  than  veal.  Veal  should  be 
thoroughly  done.  When  under-dress- 
ed it  is  unwholesome,  and  should  be 
avoided. 

Veal,  Choosing  of . — The  flesh  of  veal 
ought  to  be  white,  slightly  approach- 
ing to  pink,  with  the  fat  firm.  It  should 
not  be  too  large  or  it  will  be  coarse  and 
hard.  The  vein  in  the  shoulder 
should  be  of  a bright  red,  and  the 


kidneys  should  be  covered  with  fat. 
If  the  flesh  be  clammy  and  discolored 
by  spots  of  various  hues,  the  veal  is 
unfit  for  use.  The  best  cuts  of  veal 
are  the  loin  and  the  fillet.  It  should 
always  be  well  seasoned,  or  cooked 
with  pork  or  ham.  It  needs  to  be 
cooked  thoroughly  — at  least  fifteen 
minutes  a pound  should  be  allowed. 

Sweetbreads. — Recipes  for  prepar- 
ing sweetbreads  will  be  found  grouped 
under  Sweetbreads,  pages  381, 382, 383. 

Calf’s  Brains,  Boiled. — Place  in  a 
bowl  of  cold  water  two  very  fresh 
pairs  of  calves’  brains ; wash  them 
nicely,  and  then  put  them  in  clean, 
lukewarm  water  so  as  to  remove  with 
ease  the  thin  skin  which  covers  them. 
Rinse  again  in  cold  water,  and  drain 
them  in  a colander.  Prepare  in  a 
saucepan  the  following  court-bouillon : 
Two  quarts  of  water,  half  a gill  of 
vinegar,  one  sliced  carrot,  two  sliced 
onions,  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  half  a 
bay-leaf,  two  cloves,  four  whole  pep- 
pers, one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Boil  for 
fifteen  minutes,  then  place  the  brains 
in  the  court-bouillon.  Cook  them  eigh- 
teen minutes,  not  fast ; drain  them  and 
put  them  in  the  oven  to  keep  warm, 
covering  them  with  a napkin  in  order 


390 


Calf’s  Brains,  Cutlets  of 


VEAL 


Calf’s  Head 


to  keep  them  white.  Serve  with  hot 
tomato  sauce. 

Calf’s  Brains,  Cutlets  of. — Lay  the 

brains  in  cold  water  to  whiten.  Put 
them  in  a stewpan  with  a little  water, 
a table-spoonful  of  vinegar,  an  onion, 
two  or  three  cloves,  a little  white  wine, 
salt,  and  white  pepper.  Simmer  the 
brains  half  an  hour,  then  lay  them  on 
a sieve  to  drain.  When  cold  cut  them 
in  slices,  and  dip  them  either  in  egg  and 
bread-crumbs  or  butter  seasoned  with 
salt  and  white  pepper.  Fry  them  in 
pure  lard.  Serve  as  a side  dish  or  ac- 
companiment to  any  delicate  vegetable. 

Calfs  Brains,  Fried.  — Cut  the 

brains  in  four,  and  soak  them  in 
broth  and  white  wine,  to  which  add 
some  slices  of  lemon,  a little  pepper, 
salt,  thyme,  laurel,  cloves,  parsley, 
and  shallot;  when  they  have  been 
soaked  for  about  an  hour  take  them 
out  and  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  roll 
in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  a light 
brown.  Serve  with  tartar  sauce,  and 
garnish  with  parsley. 

Calf’s  Foot,  Baked  or  Stewed.  — 

Wash  a calf’s  foot  very  carefully, 
and  rub  it  over  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
a little  powdered  cinnamon.  Place 
it  in  a saucepan  or  dish,  and  cover 
it  with  a pint  and  a half  of  water. 
The  knuckle  - bone  of  a ham,  the 
end  of  a dried  tongue,  or  even  a few 
pieces  of  beef  may  be  added,  with  a 
little  celery,  an  onion  stuck  with  four 
or  five  cloves,  and  a carrot.  Let  these 
simmer  either  in  the  oven  or  on  the 
fire  for  three  or  four  hours.  In  either 
case  they  must  be  closely  covered. 
When  quite  tender,  take  out  the 
bones,  and  cut  the  meat  into  neat 
pieces.  Strain  the  gravy,  skimming 
off  the  fat,  add  to  it  a table-spoonful 
of  mushroom  catsup,  and  thicken  it 
with  a dessert-spoonful  of  ground  rice. 
Let  it  boil  up,  then  put  in  the  pieces 
of  meat,  a squeeze  of  lemon-juice,  a 
glass  of  white  wine,  and  serve  hot. 

Calf’s  Head,  Baked. — Boil  the  head, 
after  being  well  cleaned,  until  all  the 


bones  may  be  easily  drawn  out.  Lay 
the  pieces  of  meat  on  a dish  and  cut 
them  into  small  pieces.  Season  with 
cayenne  pepper,  mace,  cloves,  nut- 
megs,  parsley,  onions,  sweet  mar- 
joram, and  a little  thyme,  a small  bit 
of  each  chopped  up  fine ; salt  to  your 
taste.  Lay  some  lumps  of  butter  over 
it  and  as  much  water  as  will  cover  it ; 
then  put  it  in  the  oven,  and,  when  bak- 
ed tender,  take  the  meat  out,  adding 
half  a pint  of  Madeira  wine  and  three 
or  four  eggs  beaten  up  with  butter  to 
the  gravy,  which  must  then  be  thick- 
ened over  the  fire.  Keep  it  stirring 
during  this  part  of  the  process,  and 
then  pour  it  hot  over  the  meat,  which 
may  then  be  served. 

Calf’s  Head,  Scalloped.  — Have  a 
calf’s  head,  and  the  brains,  tongue,  and 
heart  included.  Cook  all  slowly  with 
as  little  water  as  will  cover  them. 
Cook  the  brain  separately,  but  the 
other  parts  may  be  cooked  together. 
When  nearly  done,  take  from  the  fire, 
and  cut  off  all  the  meat  from  the  head  ; 
cut  up — not  chop — the  other  parts,  and 
put  in  a baking-dish  in  alternate  lay- 
ers. Pour  in  the  liquid  in  which  the 
meat  was  cooked,  season  well  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  when  almost  done 
in  the  oven  pour  in  a generous  glass- 
ful of  sherry  or  any  kind  of  white 
wine.  Bread-crumbs  and  butter  are 
to  be  put  between  the  layers,  and  fin- 
ish with  a layer  of  bread-crumbs  and 
butter. 

Calf’s  Head  a la  Vinaigrette.  — 

Split  a calf’s  head  in  two,  remove  the 
tongueand  the  brains,  and  put  the  head 
in  a large  pan  with  cold  water  for  two 
hours  before  cooking  it.  Rub  it  well, 
and  wash  it  in  plenty  of  water  to  make 
it  as  white  as  possible ; dry  it  with  a 
towel.  Rub  the  whole  head  with  a 
large  lemon  ; put  back  the  tongue,  but 
not  the  brains.  Put  the  head  in  a 
clean  napkin  dipped  previously  in 
cold  water,  and  tie  up  the  ends  to  have 
it  well  wrapped  up.  Place  it  in  a large 
stewpan  with  enough  cold  water  to 
cover  it.  Season  with  half  a cupful 
of  flour  diluted  in  a little  cold  water. 


391 


Calf’s  Head 


VEAL 


Calf’s  Kidney  Pie 


and  Y\  lb.  of  beef  suet  cut  in  small 
pieces,  one  table-spoonful  of  salt,  six 
whole  peppers,  four  cloves,  two  bay- 
leaves,  a bouquet  of  six  sprigs  of  pars- 
ley, two  branches  of  celery,  one  small 
branch  of  thyme,  two  sliced  carrots, 
and  four  ordinary-sized  onions.  Put 
the  covered  saucepan  over  a hot  fire 
until  boiling ; then  moderate  the  fire, 
uncover  a little,  and  cook  two  hours. 
Remove  the  head  from  the  saucepan, 
take  away  the  napkin,  carve  the  head 
in  two,  remove  the  eyes  and  all  the 
bones.  Remove  the  skin  from  the 
tongue  and  cut  it  in  two  pieces,  length- 
wise ; put  each  half  tongue  alongside 
of  the  head.  Two  hard-boiled  eggs 
cut  in  squares  and  a few  sprigs  of  pars- 
ley tastefully  placed  give  the  desired 
effect  of  making  up  a very  appetizing 
dish.  The  brains  have  been  put  in 
lukewarm  water  in  order  to  remove 
every  bit  of  the  skins,  then  left  in  cold 
water.  Cook  them  by  themselves  in 
a small  saucepan  in  some  of  the  broth 
of  the  head  for  eighteen  minutes.  The 
broth  must  be  boiling  when  the  brains 
are  put  in.  The  sauce  vinaigrette  con- 
sists of  two  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs, 
chopped  and  passed  through  a sieve, 
one  teaspoonful  of  shallot,  chopped  and 
also  passed  through  the  sieve,  one- 
half  table-spoonful  of  chopped  pickles, 
one  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
one  teaspoonful  of  dry  mustard  di- 
luted in  one  table-spoonful  of  cold 
water,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  tarragon 
vinegar,  four  table-spoonfuls  of  olive 
oil,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  pinches 
of  pepper.  Put  all  these  ingredients 
into  a bowl  and  mix  thoroughly,  using 
a silver  spoon,  for  three  minutes. 
Serve  in  a sauce-boat.  The  broth 
from  the  calf’s  head  will  make  a very 
good  and  inexpensive  soup.  Put  into 
a saucepan  one  table-spoonful  of  flour 
and  one  table-spoonful  of  butter  ; cook 
four  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time. 
Strain  two  quarts  of  the  broth,  pour 
slowly  over,  add  three  table-spoonfuls 
of  the  calf’s  head  cut  in  small  squares. 
Any  piece  left  over  will  serve  the  pur- 
pose. Add  also  three  hard  - boiled 
eggs,  chopped  fine,  two  gills  of  sherry 
or  Madeira,  and  a quarter  of  a lemon. 


cut  thin.  Let  cook  slowly  thirty  min- 
utes, and  serve  hot. 

Calf’s  Kidneys  with  Mushrooms  and 
Madeira  Sauce.  — Thirteen  minutes 
of  cooking  from  start  to  finish  is  suf- 
ficient for  this  dish.  The  ingredients 
are  three  veal  kidneys,  Vz  lb.  of  mush- 
rooms, one  and  a half  gills  of  con- 
somme, three  table-spoonfuls  of  Ma- 
deira, one  table  - spoonful  of  butter, 
one  coffee-spoonful  of  salt,  two  pinches 
of  pepper.  If  there  is  no  consomme  at 
hand,  one  coffee-spoonful  of  beef  ex- 
tract diluted  in  one  and  a half  gills  of 
hot  water  may  replace  it.  Remove 
the  skin  from  the  kidneys  and  cut  each 
lengthwise  in  four  slices.  Take  off  the 
fat.  cut  each  slice  in  small  pieces.  The 
mushrooms,  which  are  prepared  at  the 
last  moment,  should  be  of  medium  size  \ 
they  are  peeled  whole  and  put  in  luke- 
warm water,  with  two  good  pinches 
of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vinegar. 
Remove,  and  wipe  dry  with  a napkin. 
This  method  is  excellent  to  prepare 
mushrooms  for  any  style  of  cooking, 
as  it  keeps  them  perfectly  white  and 
firm.  For  this  dish  they  are  after- 
wards cut  in  slices  a quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  Have  at  first  a full  flame  un- 
der the  chafing-dish.  Put  in  the  but- 
ter, and  when  it  is  melted  add  the  kid- 
neys, salt,  and  pepper.  Keep  the  dish 
uncovered,  and  stir  with  a spoon  in  or- 
der to  cook  every  slice.  After  two 
minutes  remove  the  kidneys,  lower 
the  flame,  and  add  the  flour  to  the 
gravy ; stir  briskly  for  two  minutes 
before  pouring  slowly  over  the  con- 
somme, then  the  Madeira.  Mix  well, 
cover,  and  cook  for  five  minutes. 
Add  the  mushrooms,  cook  two  min- 
utes, then  return  the  kidneys  without 
the  gravy.  Cook  uncovered  for  two 
minutes,  then  extinguish  the  flame  at 
once,  as  longer  cooking  will  make  the 
kidneys  hard. 

Calf’s  Kidney  Pie. — Take  four  veal 
kidneys,  and  half  its  bulk  in  fat  with 
each.  Cut  them  into  slices  a quarter 
of  an  inch  thick,  season  rather  highly 
with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  add  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  powdered  mace  for  the 


Calf’s  Kidneys,  Ragout 


VEAL 


Calf’s  Liver,  Broiled 


whole.  Cut  the  meat  from  a calf’s 
foot  and  season  it  in  the  same  way. 
Place  a layer  of  kidney  at  the  bottom 
of  a pie-dish,  strew  over  it  2 ozs.  of 
finely  minced  ham,  and  lay  on  this  the 
slices  of  calf’s  foot.  Repeat  until  the 
dish  is  nearly  full.  Put  the  hard- 
boiled  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  half  a 
dozen  force-meat  balls  at  the  top,  and 
pour  over  them  a quarter  of  a pint  of 
veal  stock  flavored  with  lemon-juice. 
Line  the  edges  of  the  dish  with  a good 
crust,  cover  it  with  the  same,  and  bake 
in  a moderate  oven.  Though  force- 
meat balls  are  an  improvement  to  the 
pie,  they  may  be  dispensed  with.  They 
are  made  as  follows : Strain  ten  or 
twelve  oysters  from  their  liquid,  mince 
them  very  finely,  and  mix  them  with 
4 ozs.  of  finely  grated  bread-crumbs,  a 
table  - spoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
half  a teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon- 
rind,  and  a little  salt,  cayenne,  and 
mace.  Mix  these  ingredients  thor- 
oughly. Bind  them  together  with  the 
unbeaten  yolk  of  an  egg  and  a lit- 
tle of  the  oyster  liquor,  make  them 
into  balls,  and  they  are  ready  for  use. 
This  pie,  which  is  generally  a favor- 
ite, should  be  eaten  cold.  A good  pie 
may  be  made  with  cold  kidney  and  a 
few  slices  of  the  kidney  fat  from  a cold 
loin  of  veal,  instead  of  fresh  kidneys. 
Time,  from  an  hour  and  a half  to  two 
hours  to  bake. 

Calf’s  Kidneys,  Ragout. — Remove 
the  little  hard  pieces  in  the  middle  ; 
cut  the  kidneys  in  small  slices,  put 
them  with  a lump  of  butter  in  a 
saucepan,  and  fry  two  minutes.  Sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper,  sprinkle  in 
a little  flour,  add  a few  sliced  mush- 
rooms and  a little  bouillon ; cook  till 
the  sauce  thickens,  then  pour  it  over 
the  kidneys.  A little  red  or  white 
wine  will  make  a very  agreeable  ad- 
dition. 

Calf’s  Liver  and  Bacon. — Cut  i lb. 

of  liver  into  slices,  a quarter  of  an  inch 
in  thickness,  and  dredge  some  flour 
over  them.  Take  an  equal  number 
of  slices  of  bacon,  fat  and  lean  to- 
gether. F ry  the  bacon  first,  and  when 


it  is  done  enough,  draw  the  rashers 
from  the  fat  and  place  them  on  a hot 
dish.  Fry  the  slices  of  liver  in  the 
same  fat,  and  when  lightly  browned 
on  both  sides,  dish  bacon  and  liver  in 
a circle,  a slice  of  each  alternately. 
Pour  the  fat  from  the  pan,  and  dredge 
a little  flour  into  it.  Add  a quarter  of 
a pint  of  broth,  a little  salt  and  pepper, 
and  a table  - spoonful  of  mushroom 
catsup.  Stir  smoothly  together  until 
the  sauce  boils,  and  pour  it  into  the 
dish  with  the  liver.  Garnish  with 
sliced  lemon.  If  liked,  a table-spoon- 
ful of  finely  minced  gherkins  or  pickled 
walnuts  may  be  added  to  the  sauce. 
Time,  a quarter  of  an  hour  to  fry  the 
liver. 

Calf’s  Liver  Bourgeois.  — Procure 
a nice  liver  from  2^4  to  3 lbs.  Cut 
1 lb.  of  larding-pork  in  strips  two 
inches  long  and  not  too  thick.  Sea- 
son each  strip  with  pepper  and  salt, 
then  lard  the  liver.  Put  in  a braisi&re 
one  table  - spoonful  of  butter  and  the 
remnants  of  the  trimming  and  rind 
of  the  pork.  Place  the  liver  in  it,  and 
leave  it  until  nicely  brown  all  over. 
Remove  the  liver  from  the  saucepan. 
Add  a dessert-spoonful  of  flour,  cook 
five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time 
with  a wooden  spoon.  Season  with 
two  pinches  of  salt,  two  of  pepper, 
half  a pint  of  dry  white  wine,  one 
and  a half  of  water ; add  a bouquet 
of  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  branch 
of  celery,  one  small  bay-leaf,  three 
onions,  and  two  cloves.  Put  the 
liver  back  again  in  the  saucepan ; 
cook  one  hour  and  a half  over  a slow 
fire.  Add  to  it,  lastly,  one  pint  of 
small,  new  carrots  and  a half-pint 
of  small,  new  onions ; cook  half  an 
hour  longer.  Serve  the  liver  on  a 
warm  platter ; arrange  the  vegetables  ; 
strain  and  pour  the  gravy  over.  The 
white  wine  will  give  an  excellent 
taste,  and  prevents  the  gravy  from 
being  greasy ; but  if  no  wine  is  at 
hand,  the  same  quantity  of  rich, 
good  stock  will  answer. 

Calf’s  Liver,  Broiled.  — Cut  the 
liver  into  thin  slices,  wash  it,  and  let 


393 


Calf’s  Liver,  Minced 


VEAL 


Veal,  Breast  of 


it  stand  in  salt  and  water  for  half 
an  hour,  to  draw  out  all  the  blood. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
broil,  basting  frequently  with  butter. 
Either  fried  or  broiled  liver  is  more 
delicate  if,  after  it  is  cut  into  slices 
for  cooking,  it  is  parboiled  in  salt 
and  water. 

Calf's  Liver,  Minced.  — Boil  a 
calf’s  liver  till  it  will  crumble.  Drain 
it,  and  cut  it  in  small  pieces.  Strain 
the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled, 
and  thicken  it  with  a piece  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour.  Pepper  and  salt  and 
a few  herbs  must  be  added,  and  the 
mixture  boiled  up.  Put  the  liver 
on  a deep  dish  with  the  finely  grated 
crumbs  of  a stale  loaf.  Set  the  dish 
in  the  oven  five  minutes,  pour  on  the 
gravy,  and  serve  hot. 

Calf’s  Liver  Saute.—  Have  I y2  lbs. 
of  nice  light -colored  calf’s  liver; 
cut  in  slices  of  one-third  of  an  inch 
thick.  Season  each  side  with  half  a 
salt-spoonful  of  salt  and  quarter  of  a 
one  of  black  pepper.  Put  in  a skillet 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  clarified  butter  ; 
when  hot,  place  the  slices  one  by  the 
other.  Cook  three  minutes  on  each 
side,  remove  them  to  a platter,  and 
keep  warm  in  the  oven  with  door 
wide  open.  Put  in  the  gravy  of  the 
liver  two  table-spoonfuls  of  finely 
chopped  onions.  Let  simmer  for 
five  minutes  while  stirring,  till  they 
are  a golden  color.  Add  one  table- 
spoonful of  wine  vinegar,  let  simmer 
one  minute  more,  pour  over  the  liver 
and  sprinkle  over  it  one  table-spoonful 
of  finely  chopped  parsley.  Arrange 
the  slices  on  the  platter  in  a crown 
shape.  Garnish  with  vegetables. 

Calf’s  Tongue,  Boiled.  —Let  two 

calves’  tongues  soak  in  cold  water  for 
one  hour.  Put  them  in  a soup-kettle 
with  three  quarts  of  cold  water,  over 
a brisk  fire.  As  soon  as  it  has  come 
to  the  boiling-point,  skim  carefully 
and  season  with  half  a table-spoonful 
of  salt,  one  salt -spoonful  of  pepper, 
three  good-sized  carrots,  three  small 
white  turnips,  one  bouquet  of  three 


leeks,  four  sprigs  of  parsley,  one 
branch  of  celery,  one  bay -leaf,  two 
cloves  stuck  in  one  onion,  and  a very 
small  branch  of  thyme.  Let  it  boil  for 
two  hours,  remove  the  tongues  to  a 
platter,  skin  them,  and  cut  them  in 
two,  lengthwise.  Serve  with  baked 
macaroni;  or,  if  wanted  cold,  serve 
with  tartar  or  other  cold  sauce. 

Sweetbreads.  See  Sweetbreads, 
pages  381,  382,  383. 

Veal,  Blanquette  of,  with  Mush- 
rooms.— Cut  some  cold  dressed  veal 
into  pieces  about  an  inch  square  and 
a quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Take  a 
quarter  of  the  bulk  of  the  meat  in  but- 
ton mushrooms,  clean  these  with  a 
piece  of  flannel  and  a little  salt,  and 
simmer  them  very  gently  with  a slice 
of  fresh  butter  till  they  are  done 
enough.  Put  the  pieces  of  veal  in  a 
saucepan,  lay  the  stewed  mushrooms 
upon  them,  and  pour  over  all  a little 
nicely  seasoned  veal  stock,  thickened 
with  a little  piece  of  white  thickening. 
Heat  the  preparation  gently  till  it  is 
on  the  point  of  boiling.  Beat  one  or 
two  eggs  in  a bowl,  stir  a spoonful  of 
sauce  into  them,  and  add  them  gradu- 
ally to  the  rest.  Shake  the  sauce  over 
the  fire  for  a minute,  but  do  not  let  it 
boil  or  it  will  curdle.  Add  a table- 
spoonful of  lemon -juice,  and  serve. 
If  liked,  the  blanquette  may  be  piled 
m the  centre  of  a dish  with  a border 
of  pastry  round  it.  Time  to  sim- 
mer the  mushrooms,  ten  to  fifteen 
minutes. 

Veal,  Breast  of.  — Cover  thickly 
with  crumbs  of  bread,  put  small 
lumps  of  butter  about  on  it,  and 
sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt  when 
baked,  making  a gravy  of  butter. 
This  is  a very  nice  dish.  Both  the 
rack  and  breast,  as  commonly  dressed, 
are  but  little  esteemed,  yet  in  this 
way  make  excellent  dishes. 

Veal,  Breast  of,  Stuffed  and  Roast- 

ed- — Take  a breast  of  veal  weighing 
about  8 lbs.  Raise  the  thick  part  with 
the  fingers,  and  force  into  the  vacant 


394 


Veal,  Cold,  To  Ragout 


VEAL  Veal  Cutlets  a la  Milanaise 


place  as  much  veal  stuffing  as  possi- 
ble. Bring  the  edges  of  the  meat  to- 
gether and  sew  them  with  twine,  or 
fasten  them  with  skewers,  that  the 
force-meat  may  not  escape.  Put  the 
veal  in  a moderately  hot  oven.  Baste 
it  liberally.  When  done  enough  take 
it  up,  pour  melted  butter  over,  and 
send  fried  rashers  of  bacon  to  table 
with  it.  Time  to  roast  the  veal,  two 
to  two  and  a half  hours. 

Veal,  Cold,  To  Ragout. — Cut  the 

white  part  of  the  cold  veal  into  small, 
round  cutlets  about  one-third  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  free  from  skin  and  gristle. 
Break  up  the  bones  of  the  veal,  and 
with  them  the  skin  and  trimmings  of 
the  meat,  and  any  flavoring  ingredi- 
ents that  may  be  chosen,  make  a little 
good  gravy.  Strain  this,  and  thicken 
it  with  a small  piece  of  brown  thick- 
ening, or  with  a small  slice  of  butter. 
Season  the  gravy  rather  highly  with 
pepper,  mace  or  nutmeg,  and  anchovy, 
or  mushroom  powder.  Flour  the 
slices  of  veal,  and  fry  them  in  hot  fat 
till  they  are  lightly  browned.  Drain 
them,  put  them  on  a dish,  pour 
the  gravy  over,  and  serve  very  hot. 
Time,  an  hour  or  more  to  make  the 
gravy. 

Veal  Croquettes,  a la  Stuart. — 

Boil  for  thirty  minutes  2 lbs.  of  veal, 
together  with  an  onion,  cut  small,  and 
some  parsley  in  a pint  of  stock,  to 
which  add  the  liquor  from  one  box  of 
mushrooms ; season  to  taste  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  spices;  when  done,  take 
out  the  veal ; strain  the  gravy  and  add 
to  it  a little  roux ; reduce  by  boiling ; 
next  add  an  egg  and  a handful  of 
bread-crumbs ; mix  well,  and  season 
with  a little  grated  nutmeg  and  chop- 
ped parsley ; add  the  veal,  Yz  lb.  of  ham, 
and  a tin  of  mushrooms,  chopped  fine  ; 
allow  to  cool ; separate  into  small,  neat 
pieces,  dip  them  into  beaten  egg,  and 
roll  in  bread-crumbs ; repeat  once  or 
twice ; drop  the  croquettes  into  boiling 
lard,  and  fry  a light  brown;  when 
cooked,  drain  and  set  aside  to  cool. 
Dish  in  the  shape  of  a pyramid,  and 
garnish  with  cresses. 


Veal  Curry. — Veal  may  be  curried 
whether  it  is  cooked  or  not.  The  fresh 
meat  is,  of  course,  to  be  preferred, 
though  the  other  is  very  good.  To 
curry  fresh  veal,  take  about  2 lbs.  of 
veal  from  the  breast  or  cutlets  from  the 
neck.  Cut  it  into  neat  pieces  conven- 
ient for  serving,  rub  these  over  with 
curry  powder,  and  fry  them  in  hot  fat 
till  they  are  brightly  browned.  Take 
them  up,  put  them  into  a saucepan 
with  a pint  of  stock,  and  simmer  them 
gently  till  tender.  Slice  a large  onion, 
and  mince  an  apple  finely:  Fry  these 

in  the  fat  in  which  the  veal  was  fried 
till  they  are  quite  soft.  Rub  them 
through  a sieve,  then  mix  with  the 
pulp  a table-spoonful  of  curry  paste, 
a dessert-spoonful  of  ground  rice,  a 
pinch  of  salt,  and  a teaspoonful  of 
finely  minced  lemon-rind.  Add  grad- 
ually the  stock  in  which  the  veal  has 
simmered,  let  the  sauce  boil  up,  put  the 
cutlets  in  again,  and  simmer  all  to- 
gether over  a gentle  fire  for  half  an 
hour.  Place  the  meat  on  a dish,  pour 
the  sauce  over,  and  send  rice  boiled 
for  curry  to  table  on  a separate  dish. 
If  liked,  a little  lemon -juice  may  be 
used  instead  of  the  sour  apple,  and 
milk  may  be  substituted  for  the  veal 
stock.  Some  cooks  put  a clove  of  gar- 
lic into  the  curry,  but  this  is  a matter 
of  taste.  Time  to  simmer  the  veal, 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  the  stock 
and  half  an  hour  in  the  gravy. 

Veal,  Cutlets  of. — When  the  rack 
of  veal  is  chosen,  divide  each  bone 
separately,  break  an  egg,  and  wet 
the  pieces  with  it ; then  roll  them  in 
bread-crumbs,  and  afterwards  fry  in 
lard.  Make  a nice  gravy  with  butter, 
pepper,  and  salt,  mixed  with  the  bread- 
crumbs. Any  part  of  the  veal  almost, 
cut  into  small  pieces,  may  be  dressed 
in  the  same  way.  This  dish  must  be 
thoroughly  done  to  be  good.  Either  a 
quarter  of  lamb  or  shote,  cut  up  into 
small  pieces — that  is  to  say,  the  usual 
size  for  chops — may  be  dressed  in  the 
same  way,  and  will  be  found  very  nice. 

Veal  Cutlets  a la  Milanaise.  — 
Trim  the  cutlets  into  a uniform 


395 


Veal  Cutlets  with  Noodles  VEAL 


Veal,  Epigrammes  of 


shape  and  dip  them  in  melted  butter. 
Then  dip  them  in  a mixture  of  equal 
parts  of  bread-crumbs  and  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  peppered  and  salt- 
ed. Then  dip  them  in  a beaten -up 
egg  and  pass  them  through  the  mixt- 
ure again;  then  fry  them  brown. 
Boil  a small  quantity  of  macaroni, 
dress  it  with  butter,  Parmesan  cheese, 
and  tomato  sauce,  with  the  yolk  of 
an  egg  stirred  into  it.  Place  the  mac- 
aroni on  a dish  and  the  cutlets  in  a 
circle  round  it. 

Veal  Cutlets  with  Noodles. — Have 
ready  six  French  veal  chops.  When 
the  chop  is  breaded  it  must  weigh 
about  Yz  lb.  Season  on  each  side 
with  half  a pinch  of  salt,  half  a pinch 
of  pepper.  Dip  the  chop  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  melted  butter,  and  then 
in  the  bread-crumbs;  see  that  each 
side  is  well  covered.  Put  in  a flat 
saucepan  or  in  a baking -pan  two 
table  - spoonfuls  of  butter;  as  soon 
as  melted,  arrange  the  chops  side  by 
side  in  the  pan ; cook  on  a moderate 
fire  seven  minutes  for  each  side  with- 
out covering,  turning  them  once  only 
with  a lifter.  In  order  to  keep  the 
chops  juicy,  cook  them  to  a golden 
brown,  not  dark.  The  meat  of  the 
veal  must  be  very  white.  Serve 
them  on  noodles  with  a bechamel 
sauce.  This  sauce  can  be  recom- 
mended for  serving  with  a number  of 
dishes.  It  is  exceedingly  delicate, 
and  very  appropriate  for  vol-au-vent 
with  fish.  A bechamel  for  noodles, 
medium  size,  requires  I Yz  lbs.  of 
veal  cutlet  and  x/z  lb.  of  raw  ham, 
very  lean,  and  cut  in  small  pieces. 
Put  in  the  saucepan  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  butter,  two  medium-sized  car- 
rots, two  onions,  % lb.  of  mushrooms, 
two  branches  of  celery,  two  sprigs 
of  parsley  — all  sliced  or  chopped; 
add  one  clove,  quarter  of  a bay- 
leaf,  four  whole  peppers,  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Cook  ten  min- 
utes, stirring  with  a spoon  from  time 
to  time ; sprinkle  over  one  table- 
spoonful of  flour ; cook  for  five  min- 
utes again,  still  stirring;  then  pour 
slowly  over  it  one  and  a half  quarts 


of  good  stock.  Cook  one  hour  in  a 
covered  saucepan  on  a slow  fire. 
Strain  through  a sieve,  put  the  sauce 
back  in  a clean  saucepan,  and  add 
one  pint  of  good  cream.  Cook  slowly 
for  twenty  minutes.  This  sauce  must 
have  the  consistency  of  very  thick 
cream.  In  case  it  should  not  be  thick 
enough,  reduce  it  by  cooking  a few 
more  minutes  in  the  pan  uncovered. 
It  can  be  strained  through  the  silk 
strainer. 

Veal  Cutlets,  or  Wiener  Schnitzel. 

— Beat  up  an  egg  and  well  soak  some 
veal  cutlets  in  it;  dip  them  in  bread- 
crumbs and  fry  them  in  butter  on 
both  sides.  As  soon  as  they  are 
cooked  take  them  out,  drain,  and  lay 
them  round  a dish  ; place  some  grated 
horseradish  and  chopped  anchovies 
in  the  centre,  and  serve  with  a sauce 
“ demiglace.”  The  “ sauce  demi- 
glac6”  is  made  as  follows:  Take 
the  trimmings  of  the  veal,  put  them 
in  a saucepan  with  a little  stock, 
onions,  carrots,  and  bouquet  of 
herbs.  Let  all  simmer  together  until 
the  meat  is  in  rags.  Skim  often. 
Pass  all  through  a sieve,  and  clarify 
with  the  white  of  an  egg,  well  beaten. 
Strain  again,  and  place  over  the  fire 
until  the  sauce  is  sufficiently  thick. 
Serve  with  the  cutlets. 

Veal  a la  Daube. — Bone  a'shoulder 
of  veal,  season,  and  fill  the  hollow 
with  force-meat;  sew  the  opening, 
and  cover  the  veal  with  slices  of 
bacon ; place  in  a stewpan,  together 
with  the  bones  and  trimmings,  and 
a little  veal  broth  or  jelly ; add  a bunch 
of  sweet  herbs,  mace,  pepper,  salt, 
and  two  anchovies.  Cover  very  close, 
and  simmer  for  two  hours,  shaking 
the  pan  occasionally.  Strain  the 
gravy,  and  glaze  the  veal  with  it. 

Veal,  Epigrammes  of. — Trim  off  the 
surplus  fat  from  a fore-quarter  of  veal. 
Put  in  a saucepan,  and  add  a sliced 
onion,  a sprig  of  celery  tops,  salt,  and 
a whole  pepper.  Cover  with  hot  water 
or  soup  stock,  and  simmer  until  the 
bones  can  be  easily  removed.  Place 


396 


Veal  Escalops 


VEAL 


Vealt  Fricassee  of 


it  between  two  platters,  on  top  of  which 
put  a heavy  weight,  and  let  it  become 
cold.  Strain  the  sauce  to  free  it  from 
fat,  and  hold  it  in  reserve.  Cut  the 
veal  into  neat  pieces  of  equal  size,  dip 
them  in  beaten  egg  and  bread-crumbs, 
and  strew  over  them  a little  salt  and 
pepper;  dip  again  in  egg,  and  again 
roll  in  crumbs.  Have  on  the  range 
a liberal  quantity  of  fat;  when  it  is 
smoking  hot,  fry  the  pieces  a deli- 
cate brown.  Heat  the  sauce,  thicken 
it  with  a little  brown  flour,  taste  for 
seasoning. 

Veal  Escalops  with  Cream  Sauce. 

— Cut  3 lbs.  of  cutlet  veal  into  twelve 
even  oblong  or  oval  slices,  not  too 
thick,  flattening  them  into  shape  with 
a kitchen  knife  dipped  in  cold  water. 
Season  each  piece  on  both  sides  with 
half  a salt-spoonful  of  pepper  and  a 
whole  one  of  salt.  In  a saucepan  melt 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  put 
in  the  slices,  taking  care  that  they  do 
not  touch  each  other.  Cook  over  a 
moderate  fire  four  minutes  on  each 
side.  When  done  they  should  not  be 
brown.  Remove  and  dress  on  a hot 
platter,  crown-shape.  For  the  cream 
sauce,  put  in  a small  saucepan  one 
table-spoonful  of  butter  and  one  of 
flour.  Cook  four  minutes,  stirring 
well  with  a wooden  spoon,  but  do  not 
let  it  brown.  Pour  slowly  over  while 
stirring  half  a pint  of  hot  broth  and 
half  a pint  of  good  cream.  Cook 
slowly  ten  minutes.  Mix  well  in  a 
bowl  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  two  table- 
spoonfuls of  raw  cream,  one  table- 
spoonful of  butter;  remove  the  gravy 
from  the  fire  and  add  this  thickening, 
stirring  constantly.  Pour  the  sauce, 
which  should  be  thick  and  rich,  over 
the  hot  escalops.  This  is  a savory 
dish  prepared  in  a chafing-dish  for  an 
evening  supper.  Any  roasted  white 
meat  left  over  from  the  previous  day 
may  be  used  instead  of  the  veal.  Cut 
the  meat  in  thin  slices  and  put  them 
in  the  gravy  before  adding  the  thick- 
ening. To  remain  tender,  the  dish 
should  not  at  any  time  be  brought  to 
the  boiling-point,  but  should  be  kept 
at  a good  steady  heat  all  the  time. 


Veal,  Fricandeau  of. — Take  about 
3 lbs.  of  the  fat,  fleshy  side  of  a fillet 
of  veal,  of  the  best  quality,  or  a slice 
about  four  inches  thick.  With  one 
stroke  of  the  knife  cut  it  even,  trim 
it  into  an  oblong  or  oval  shape,  then 
lard  thickly  and  evenly  with  thin  strips 
of  fat  bacon.  Slice  two  carrots,  two 
turnips,  and  two  onions,  and  put  these 
into  the  centre  of  a stewpan  with  two 
or  three  slices  of  bacon,  the  trimmings 
of  the  meat,  a bunch  of  sweet  herbs, 
two  bay-leaves,  and  a little  salt  and 
white  pepper.  Put  the  fricandeau  on 
the  vegetables,  and  pour  in  about  a 
pint  of  stock,  or  as  much  as  will  cover 
the  bacon  without  touching  the  veal. 
Cover  the  saucepan  closely  and  let  its 
contents  come  slowly  to  a boil,  then 
stew  very  gently  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  till  the  meat  is  quite  tender.  Baste 
frequently  with  its  liquor.  A short 
time  before  it  is  to  be  served,  take  it  up 
and  put  it  into  a well-heated  oven  to 
crisp  the  bacon.  Strain  the  gravy, 
skim  the  fat  from  it,  boil  it  quickly  into 
glaze,  and  baste  the  fricandeau  with 
it  till  it  looks  brigh  t and  glossy.  Serve 
with  the  larded  surface  uppermost,  in 
the  centre  of  a puree  of  any  vegeta- 
bles that  are  in  season — sorrel,  spin- 
ach, endive,  asparagus,  pease,  etc. 
If  liked,  the  gravy  may  be  simply 
strained,  skimmed,  and  poured  over 
the  meat,  and  then  the  dish  is  frican- 
deau with  gravy.  Sometimes,  as  a mat- 
ter of  economy,  the  lean  part  of  the  best 
end  of  a large  neck  of  veal  is  used  in- 
stead of  the  prime  part  of  the  leg,  and 
does  nearly  as  well.  Truffles,  mush- 
rooms, and  artichoke  bottoms  may  all 
be  served  with  this  dish.  Time  to 
stew  the  fricandeau,  about  two  hours 
and  a half. 

Veal,  Fricassee  of. — Take  2 lbs.,  or 
more,  if  required,  of  lean  veal,  free  from 
skin  and  bone.  Cut  this  into  small, 
thick  pieces,  convenient  for  serving, 
and  fry  them  in  hot  butter  until  the 
flesh  is  firm  without  having  acquired 
any  color.  Dredge  a table-spoonful 
of  flour  upon  them,  add  a small  strip 
of  thin  lemon-rind,  and,  gradually,  as 
much  boiling  white  stock  as  will  cover 


397 


Veal  Galantine 


VEAL 


Veal,  Jugged 


the  meat.  Let  it  simmer  very  gently 
till  tender.  Take  out  the  lemon-rind, 
flavor  the  gravy  with  salt,  cayenne, 
and  pounded  mace,  and  mix  with  it  a 
quarter  of  a pint  of  boiling  cream. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  in  a bowl, 
add  gradually  a little  of  the  sauce 
(first  allowing  it  to  cool  for  a minute 
or  two),  then  add  it  carefully  to  the 
remainder.  Let  the  saucepan  remain 
near  the  fire  for  three  or  four  minutes 
till  the  eggs  are  set,  add  the  strained 
juice  of  half  a lemon,  and  serve  im- 
mediately. A few  fried  rashers  of 
bacon  should  be  served  with  this  dish. 
A pint  of  stewed  mushrooms  may  be 
served  with  it  or  not.  The  remains  of 
dressed  veal  may  be  served  in  this 
way.  Time,  about  half  an  hour  to 
simmer  the  veal. 

Veal  Galantine. — Trim  all  the  fat 

from  a large,  thin  veal  steak.  Make  a 
force-meat  of  a cupful  of  minced  ham, 
half  a cupful  of  bread-crumbs,  a doz- 
en stoned  and  minced  olives,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Moisten  this  mixt- 
ure with  enough  milk  to  make  it  into 
a thick  paste.  Lay  the  veal  steak 
upon  a pastry-board,  spread  it  with  the 
force-meat,  roll  it  upon  itself,  and  sew 
this  roll  up  tightly  in  a piece  of  mus- 
lin. Put  into  a pot  with  enough  sea- 
soned veal  stock  to  cover  it,  and 
simmer  for  at  least  three  hours.  Let 
the  meat  get  cold  in  the  liquor,  then 
remove  the  cloth  and  set  under  a 
heavy  weight  in  a cold  place  until 
wanted.  This  galantine  is  very  nice 
served  with  a jelly  made  by  add- 
ing i oz.  of  gelatine  to  a pint  of 
skimmed,  cleared,  and  seasoned  veal 
stock.  Pour  into  a border- mould  to 
form. 

Veal  and  Ham  Pie.  — Remove  the 
bones  of  a breast  of  veal,  which  use 
for  gravy,  stewing  them  long  and 
slowly ; put  a layer  of  veal,  pepper 
and  salt,  then  a sprinkling  of  ham ; 
if  boiled,  cut  in  slices;  if  raw,  cut  a 
slice  in  dice,  which  scald  before  using ; 
then  more  veal,  and  again  ham. 
Force-meat  balls  or  chopped,  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  and  binding  into  a 


paste  with  raw  eggs ; then  make 
into  balls,  which  drop  into  the  crevices 
of  the  pie ; boil  two  or  three  eggs  quite 
hard,  cut  each  into  four,  and  lay 
them  round  the  sides  and  over  the 
top;  pour  in  about  a gill  of  gravy, 
and  cover  with  pastry.  The  force- 
meat may  be  left  out  and  sweetbread, 
cut  up,  or  mushrooms  put  in. 

Veal,  Jellied. — Take  a knuckle  of 
veal,  wipe,  put  in  a kettle,  cover  with 
cold  water,  and  bring  slowly  to  a 
boil ; skim,  and  let  simmer  for  two 
hours;  add  a slice  of  onion,  a blade 
of  mace,  a dozen  whole  cloves,  half 
a dozen  peppercorns,  half  a tea- 
spoonful of  ground  allspice,  and  one 
grated  nutmeg ; let  simmer  gently 
for  one  hour  longer.  Take  the  joint 
of  veal  up,  remove  the  bones  and 
gristle,  put  the  meat  in  a square 
mould,  strain  the  liquor,  and  boil 
until  reduced  to  one  quart;  add  half 
a teacupful  of  vinegar,  the  juice 
of  a small  lemon,  with  pepper  and 
salt ; pour  it  over  the  meat,  and 
stand  aside  overnight  to  cool.  When 
ready  to  serve,  turn  carefully  out 
of  the  mould ; garnish  with  parsley 
and  thin  slices  of  lemon.  Slice  very 
thin. 

Veal,  Jugged.  — Take  from  2 to  3 
lbs.  of  lean  veal,  cut  it  into  neat 
slices  convenient  for  serving,  and 
season  with  salt,  cayenne,  and  pow- 
dered mace.  Put  the  slices  into  an 
earthen  jar,  pour  over  them  half  a 
pint  of  strong  stock,  and  add  a small 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  a roll  of 
thin  lemon-rind.  Cover  the  jar  close- 
ly by  tying  over  it  two  or  three  folds 
of  paper.  Put  it  in  a dripping-tin 
three  parts  filled  with  boiling  water, 
and  place  it  in  a moderately  heated 
oven.  Let  it  remain  till  the  meat 
is  tender.  Take  it  out,  remove  the 
herbs  and  the  lemon- rind;  thicken 
the  gravy  with  a little  brown  thick- 
ening, add  the  strained  juice  of  half 
a lemon,  and  serve  the  meat  on  a hot 
dish  with  the  gravy  poured  over  it. 
Tiine  to  stew  the  meat,  two  hours 
and  a half  to  three  hours. 


Veal  Loaf 


VEAL 


Veal,  Pain  de  Foie 


Veal  Loaf.  — Three  and  a half 
pounds  of  uncooked  veal,  x/z  lb.  of 
salt  pork  (which  may,  of  course,  be 
omitted  if  so  desired) ; have  the  veal 
and  pork  chopped  very  fine  by  your 
butcher;  half  a cupful  of  melted 
butter,  six  crackers  (preferably  soda- 
crackers),  rolled  fine ; two  eggs,  a 
grated  nutmeg,  a small  piece  of  onion, 
a little  chopped  parsley.  Form  into 
a loaf ; cover  with  bread  - crumbs 
and  small  pieces  of  butter ; bake  in  a 
dripping-pan  with  plenty  of  water, 
and  baste  frequently ; bake  two 
hours. 

Veal,  Marble.  — Boil  and  skin  a 
smoked  tongue;  beat  it  in  a mortar, 
together  with  i lb.  of  butter  and  a 
little  mace,  till  it  is  like  paste ; prepare 
some  veal  in  the  same  manner. 
Put  some  of  the  veal  in  the  pot,  and 
place  some  of  the  tongue  over  it ; then 
some  veal,  next  some  tongue ; repeat 
till  the  pot  is  full ; press  it  down,  and 
pour  clarified  butter  over  it.  Keep 
in  a dry  place,  and  cut  in  thin  slices 
before  sending  to  the  table. 

Veal,  Minced.  — This  makes  a 
most  delightful  supper  dish.  Choose 
a shin  of  veal  with  about  3 lbs.  of 
meat  on  it.  Boil  it  in  a small  quan- 
tity of  water.  When  the  meat  seems 
entirely  done,  take  it  out,  laying  it 
away  from  the  air,  but  not  wrapping 
it  in  a cloth  ; save  all  the  liquor  in  a 
separate  dish.  The  next  day  cut 
the  meat  off,  make  it  very  fine,  but 
not  quite  so  fine  as  mince-meat ; 
about  half  an  hour  before  you  wish 
to  send  it  to  table,  put  it  over  the  fire 
in  a covered  stewpan  with  the  liquor ; 
have  ready  about  half  a pint  of  drawn 
butter  (hot),  and  eight  or  ten  hard- 
boiled  eggs ; remove  the  shells  ; save 
out  two;  mince  the  rest,  and  add  to 
the  meat,  etc.  Take  off  the  fire  at 
onoe,  season  with  salt,  cayenne  pep- 
per, and  a small  quantity  of  black 
pepper,  and,  if  desired,  a very  little 
wine.  Cut  in  slices  the  two  eggs, 
and,  after  the  meat  has  been  placed 
in  the  dish  for  table,  garnish  it  with 
them.  It  should  be  sent  hot  to  table. 


Veal  Olives.  — Cut  small  pieces  of 
veal  as  if  you  were  going  to  make 
cutlets,  and  spread  them  on  a table. 
Make  a seasoning  of  crumbs  of  bread, 
pepper,  salt,  and  sweet  herbs  that 
are  agreeable.  Strew  the  seasoning 
on  the  meat,  roll  them  up,  and  tie 
them.  Put  a little  butter  in  your 
saucepan,  and  when  it  is  quite  hot 
drop  in  the  veal  balls,  or  olives, 
which  have  been  dusted  with  flour. 
Stir  gently  until  light  brown  and  un- 
til thoroughly  done.  Add  enough 
boiling  water  to  make  a little  gravy ; 
a little  lemon -juice,  and  Madeira  or 
sherry,  may  be  added. 

Veal,  Pain  de  Foie. — Cut  in  small 
pieces  2 lbs.  of  fresh  calf's  liver  and 
I lb.  of  larding-pork ; chop  together 
very  fine.  Chop,  also  separately,  one 
table-spoonful  of  parsley  and  add  it. 
Chop  one  table  - spoonful  of  white 
onion  and  put  it  in  a small  sauce- 
pan with  half  a table -spoonful  of 
butter;  cook  for  two  minutes;  add 
it  to  the  liver.  Cook  for  ten  minutes 
one  pint  of  bread  cut  in  fine  slices  in 
half  a pint  of  broth ; the  bread  must 
become  perfectly  dry.  Add  it  also 
to  the  liver,  season  with  one  tea- 
spoonful of  salt,  one  salt-spoonful  of 
black  pepper ; mix  well  and  pass 
through  a strainer,  then  put  it  in  a 
mortar  or  a chopping-bowl ; pound  it 
till  very  smooth ; add  lb.  of  cooked 
smoked  tongue,  cut  in  small  pieces, 
also  three  raw  egg  yolks  and  two 
whites  ; mix  very  well,  and  finish  with 
one  white  of  egg,  beaten  stiff.  Butter 
a plain  mould  of  one  and  a half  quarts. 
Sprinkle  all  over  the  inside  of  the 
mould  with  half  a pint  of  fresh  bread- 
crumbs ; fill  up  the  mould  with  the 
puree  and  pack  it  well.  Put  over 
the  top  a piece  of  well-buttered,  white 
paper.  Put  the  mould  in  a saucepan 
filled  two-thirds  with  warm  water,  and 
cook  in  a moderate  oven  for  one  hour. 
Unmould  over  a platter,  and  serve 
warm  or  cold ; garnish  around  and 
on  top  with  some  watercress.  If  put 
in  a cool  place  it  will  keep  four  or 
five  days.  Time  for  cooking,  one 
hour. 


399 


Veal  Pie 


VEAL 


Veal,  Roast 


Veal  Pie.  — Take  lYz  lbs.  of  veal 
cutlets  a quarter  of  an  inch  thick 
and  free  from  skin  and  bone,  also 
Y>  lb.  of  thin  ham.  Season  the  meat 
with  a little  salt,  pepper,  grated 
nutmeg,  grated  lemon-rind,  and  pow- 
dered mace,  and  let  the  quantity  of 
salt  used  be  regulated  by  the  quality 
of  the  ham.  Divide  the  meat  into 
pieces  an  inch  and  a half  square, 
put  it  in  layers  into  a buttered  pie- 
dish,  and  pour  over  it  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  cold  stock  or  water.  In- 
tersperse among  the  pieces  of  veal 
the  yolks  of  four  hard-boiled  eggs 
and  four  force-meat  balls,  together 
with  four  button  mushrooms,  or  a 
truffle,  if  these  can  be  had.  The  pie, 
however,  will  be  very  good  without 
them.  Line  the  edge  of  a dish  with 
good  pastry,  cover  with  the  same, 
trim  with  a sharp  knife,  and  orna- 
ment the  pie.  Make  a hole  in  the 
centre  that  the  steam  may  escape, 
and  bake  the  pie  in  a moderate  oven. 
Have  ready  some  nicely  seasoned  veal 
gravy  to  pour  into  the  pie  after  it  is 
baked.  Lay  paper  over  the  pastry 
in  the  oven  to  keep  it  from  browning 
too  much.  Time  to  bake  the  pie, 
two  hours. 

Veal,  Potted. — Season  a slice  of  the 
fillet  of  veal  with  some  mace,  pepper- 
corns, and  two  or  three  cloves ; put 
it  in  a pot  that  will  just  hold  it ; fill 
it  up  with  water  and  bake  it  for  three 
hours ; when  cooked,  pound  in  a 
mortar,  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste ; 
add  a little  of  the  gravy ; put  in  the 
pot,  and  cover  with  butter. 

Another  way : — Pound  some  veal 
as  in  the  preceding  recipe ; fill  the  pot 
with  layers  of  the  veal  and  alternate 
layers  of  ham,  pounded;  press  down 
and  cover  with  butter. 

Veal,  Provencal.  — Cut  in  pieces 
three  inches  long  and  one  inch  wide 
3 lbs.  of  nice,  white,  fat  breast  of  veal. 
Wash  in  lukewarm  water,  and  dry 
it  well  with  a clean  towel.  Put  in  a 
skillet  one  table-spoonful  of  butter 
and  three  of  olive  oil,  and  when  the 
butter  is  melted  put  the  meat  in  it 


and  let  the  pieces  of  veal  get  brown 
for  fifteen  minutes.  It  must  be  of  a 
golden  color  all  over.  Have  the 
saucepan  uncovered  and  stir  from 
time  to  time.  After  being  browned, 
season  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
one  salt-spoonful  of  black  pepper,  one 
large  white  onion,  chopped,  one  tea- 
spoonful of  chopped  shallots,  one 
clove  of  garlic,  whole,  one  bouquet 
of  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  half  a 
bay-leaf,  two  cloves ; add  three  good- 
sized  tomatoes.  Remove  the  skin  and 
seeds  from  the  latter  previously,  and 
cut  them  in  small  pieces.  Add 
also  half  a pint  of  good  broth.  Stir 
everything;  cover  the  saucepan,  and 
let  cook  for  one  hour,  not  too  fast, 
stirring  three  times  during  the  cook- 
ing. Dress  the  meat  on  a hot  platter. 
Remove  the  bouquet  and  the  clove 
of  garlic,  and  pour  the  gravy  over  the 
meat.  This  dish  must  be  served 
very  hot,  and  if  the  garlic  is  objected 
to  it  may  be  omitted.  A fowl  carved 
and  prepared  in  the  same  manner 
would  also  be  very  good  and  make 
a nice  dish  at  very  little  cost. 

Veal,  Rissoles  of. — To  i lb.  of  cold 
veal,  finely  minced,  allow  half  a tea- 
cupful of  grated  bread-crumbs,  a 
teaspoonful  of  powdered  sweet  herbs, 
a teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon -peel, 
a pinch  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  two 
well -beaten  raw  eggs.  Mix  all  the 
ingredients  well  together,  adding  the 
eggs  last.  Flour  the  hands,  and 
form  the  mixture  into  balls  about 
the  size  of  a hen’s  egg.  Fry  them 
in  boiling  lard  till  a delicate  brown, 
and  serve  with  slices  of  lemon  placed 
round  the  dish. 

Veal,  Roast. — Take  out  the  bone, 
fill  the  space  with  a fine  force-meat, 
and  let  the  fat  be  skewered  quite 
round ; stuff  it  also  well  under  the 
skin  with  bread,  sage,  chopped  onions, 
and  parsley,  very  much  depending 
on  the  quantity  and  flavor  of  the 
stuffing.  Cover  the  fat  with  buttered 
paper  and  roast  at  a distance  from 
the  fire ; or,  if  baked  in  an  oven,  bake 
slowly,  basting  often  until  it  is 


400 


TABLE  SET  FOR  AN  INFORMAL  SUNDAY-EVENING  SUPPER 


Veal,  Roulade  of 


VEAL 


Veal,  Shoulder  of 


thoroughly  done.  Serve  with  melted 
butter. 

Veal,  Roulade  of.  — Remove  the 
bone  from  4 lbs.  of  veal ; lay  it  flat, 
and  sprinkle  it  with  chopped  parsley, 
sweet  herbs,  pepper,  and  salt ; lay 
over  this  slices  of  bacon ; roll  it  up 
and  tie  securely ; rub  a little  lard  over 
the  outside,  and  roast  in  a quick 
oven  for  two  hours,  basting  frequent- 
ly. Allow  to  cool,  and  garnish  with 
parsley  or  cresses. 

Veal,  Saddle  of,  Larded,  with 
Chicory. — From  a nice  saddle  of  veal, 
about  10  lbs.,  remove  the  skin  at  the 
top,  and  also  most  of  the  fat  which 
surrounds  the  kidneys.  Sprinkle  over 
it  two  pinches  of  salt  and  one  of 
pepper,  and  rub  in  well ; then  bring 
together  the  two  ends  and  join  them 
with  a skewer.  Put  I lb.  of  larding- 
pork  cut  in  small  strips  in  a bowl 
of  ice-water  one  hour  before  using. 
With  a medium-sized  larding-needle 
lard  the  saddle.  Sprinkle  with  two 
pinches  of  salt  and  pepper.  Cut  in 
small  pieces  all  the  fat,  and  put  over 
the  meat.  Cover  with  a buttered 
paper.  Put  in  oven  and  cook  two 
hours.  After  the  first  half-hour  baste 
every  fifteen  minutes.  Remove  all 
fat  from  the  surface  of  the  gravy,  and 
strain.  Put  the  hearts  of  six  large 
heads  of  chicory  aside  to  be  used 
as  a salad.  Wash  the  balance  in 
several  waters,  and  boil  in  plenty 
of  boiling  water  with  half  a table- 
spoonful of  salt  for  thirty  minutes. 
Drain  through  a colander,  then 
plunge  in  cold  water.  Squeeze  well. 
Chop  fine,  and  strain.  Put  in  a 
saucepan  half  a table  - spoonful  of 
butter  and  the  same  of  flour.  Cook 
three  minutes,  stirring.  Put  the  chic- 
ory in  it,  mix  well,  add  one  gill  of 
good  consomme.  Cook  eight  more 
minutes,  remove  from  the  fire,  and 
finish  with  two  table  - spoonfuls  of 
glace  de  viande.  Serve  around  the 
saddle. 

Veal  Salad. — One  and  one-half 
pounds  of  veal,  one  pork  chop,  boiled 
26  j 


until  tender,  then  chopped  very  fine. 
Mix  together  equal  quantities  of  cab- 
bage and  celery,  chopped  fine.  Meas- 
ure the  chopped  meat,  and  add  to  it 
the  same  quantity  of  the  cabbage  and 
celery  with  a teaspoonful  of  celery 
seed,  and  salt  to  taste.  Dressing : 
Yolks  of  four  eggs,  one  cupful  of 
cream,  half  a cupful  of  strong  vin- 
egar, teaspoonful  each  of  mustard, 
pepper,  and  salt,  and  a tablespoon- 
ful of  sugar.  Boil  and  stir  until 
thick  and  smooth.  When  ready  to 
take  from  the  fire,  add  butter  the  size 
of  a walnut.  When  cold,  pour  over 
the  veal  and  cabbage  mixture. 

Veal,  Shoulder  of,  Larded. — Have 
every  particle  of  bone  removed  from 
a nice  fat  shoulder  of  veal,  roll  it  up 
tight,  and  put  two  skewers  at  each 
end,  or  use  a piece  of  twine.  Cut  in 
small  strips  % lb.  of  larding-pork, 
and  lard  all  the  top  of  the  shoulder. 
Remove  the  rind  of  lb.  of  bacon, 
cut  it  in  thick  slices,  and  garnish  the 
bottom  of  a brazier  with  them.  Add 
one  table  - spoonful  of  butter  to  the 
bacon.  When  hot  put  the  meat  over 
it,  and  let  it  brown  for  twelve  minutes. 
Pour  over  slowly  while  stirring  one 
quart  of  hot  broth  (if  not  at  hand, 
half  a teaspoonful  of  beef  extract  di- 
luted in  the  same  quantity  of  warm 
water  as  of  broth  will  answer).  Sea- 
son with  one  large  carrot,  two  red 
onions,  a bouquet  of  a small  bay- 
leaf,  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  half  a 
branch  of  white  celery,  two  cloves,  a 
very  tiny  branch  of  thyme,  one  tea- 
spoonful of  salt,  and  one  salt-spoonful 
of  black  pepper.  Put  only  half  of 
this  seasoning  if  broth  is  used.  Have 
all  the  bones  cut  in  pieces ; add  them, 
and  also  one  calf’s  foot,  cut  in  four, 
or  half  of  a veal  knuckle.  They  must 
be  plunged  first  in  boiling  water, 
and  drained  on  a clean  towel.  Place 
also  a piece  of  buttered  paper  over 
the  saucepan  and  put  on  the  cover. 
Cook  on  a slow  fire  constantly  for 
two  hours  and  a half.  Remove  the 
skewers  and  pour  half  of  the  gravy 
over  the  shoulder  through  a strainer ; 
serve  the  other  half  in  a sauce-boat. 


Veal  Stew  with  Noodles 


VEAL 


Vegetables 


Wash  one  quart  of  split  pease ; put 
them  in  a saucepan  with  two  quarts 
of  cold  water,  salt,  and  one  onion, 
and  cook  for  two  hours,  covered ; 
pass  through  a sieve.  Put  in  a hot 
bowl,  add  two  table -spoonfuls  of 
butter  and  half  a teaspoonful  of 
pepper. 

Veal  Stew  with  Noodles.- — Cut  3 

lbs.  of  veal  breast  in  pieces  two  inches 
square,  put  them  in  a bowl  with  luke- 
warm water,  rub,  drain,  and  dry  them 
with  a clean  towel.  Cover  the  meat 
with  cold  water  in  a saucepan ; when 
at  boiling-point  skim  carefully,  sea- 
son with  half  a table-spoonful  of  salt, 
one  salt-spoonful  of  pepper,  a bouquet 
of  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  half  a bay- 
leaf,  two  cloves,  two  large  white 
onions.  Cover  the  saucepan,  and 
cook  forty -five  minutes.  Mix  one 
table -spoonful  of  fresh  butter  with 
half  a table-spoonful  of  flour,  add  it  to 


the  stew,  stir  well,  remove  the  sauce- 
pan from  the  fire,  add  the  yolks  of  two 
raw  eggs,  previously  beaten  with  a lit- 
tle of  the  gravy,  and  half  a teaspoon- 
ful of  vinegar.  Stir  again,  but  do  not 
cook.  While  the  stew  is  cooking,  pre- 
pare the  egg  noodles.  Put  in  boiling 
salted  water  Yz  lb.  of  egg  noodles,  cook 
slowly  eight  minutes,  drain  them  well. 
Arrange  the  veal  in  the  centre  of  a hot 
platter  with  the  noodles. 

Veal  Sweetbreads. 

For  recipes,  see  Sweetbreads. 

Veal. — The  following  additional  rec- 
ipes for  cooking  veal  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings  as 
indicated  : 

Veal  Curry.  See  Force-meats. 

..  Force-meat. 

..  Fritters.  See  Fritters. 

..  Sandwiches.  See  Sandwiches. 

..  Soup.  See  Soups. 


VEGETABLES 


Vegetables,  Treatment  of.  — Those 
who  value  fresh  vegetables  and  sweet 
salads  will  never  have  them  wash- 
ed until  they  are  just  about  to  be 
cooked  or  eaten.  Even  potatoes  lose 
their  flavor  quickly  after  being  wash- 
ed ; and  so  do  carrots  and  turnips ; 
while  water  will  very  speedily  be- 
come tainted  in  summer  when  in  con- 
tact with  cauliflowers  and  cabbages, 
and  thus  destroy  their  freshness  and 
flavor.  The  case  is  still  worse  with 
salads.  If  washed  at  all,  it  should 
be  only  just  before  they  are  dress- 
ed, and  they  should  be  dried  and 
dressed  immediately.  Nothing  ruins 
the  flavor  of  vegetables,  and  renders 
good  salads  uneatable,  sooner  than 
water  hanging  about  them.  If  let- 
tuces are  quite  clean,  they  make 
the  best  salad  unwashed  ; but  if  wash- 
ed, the  operation  should  be  done 
quickly,  the  water  instantly  shaken 
out,  and  the  leaves  dried  with  a clean 
cloth.  The  best  practice  is  simply 


to  remove  all  superfluous  earth  by 
scraping  or  rubbing,  and  all  rough 
tops  or  leaves  by  cutting.  Enough 
tender  leaves  may  still  be  left  on 
cauliflowers  and  broccoli  to  overlap 
the  flowers.  Salad  should  be  sent  in 
from  the  garden  with  most  of  the 
outside  leaves  and  main  root  on. 
The  tender  leaves  are  easity  tainted 
and  injured  by  exposure,  and  if  the 
chief  root  is  cut  off  sharp,  much  of 
the  juice  oozes  out  of  the  wound. 
Where  vegetables  and  salads  have 
to  be  bought  from  a grocer  the  con- 
ditions are  altogether  different.  Not 
only  washing,  but  soaking  often 
becomes  necessary  to  restore  their 
crispness. 

Vegetables,  Cooking  of. — Few  per- 
sons know  how  to  cook  vegetables. 
The  rule  is  simple,  and  should  never 
be  forgotten.  Old  potatoes  should 
either  be  steamed  or  be  put  into  plen- 
ty of  cold  water  and  boiled  slowly. 
New  potatoes  should  be  put  into  plen- 


402 


General  Remarks  VEGETABLES 


General  Remarks 


ty  of  boiling  water.  With  both,  the 
water  should  be  drained  off  when  the 
roots  are  tender,  and  they  should 
finish  cooking  in  their  own  steam. 
Green  vegetables  should  be  put 
into  plenty  of  fast -boiling  salted 
water.  They  should  be  quick- 
ly boiled,  and  the  lid  should  be 
left  off  the  pan.  If  they  are  of  good 
quality  they  will  not  need  soda — 
indeed,  soda  will  spoil  them.  If  the 
water  boils  from  the  moment  that  the 
vegetable  is  immersed  in  it,  the  albu- 
men is  partially  coagulated  near  the 
surface,  and  serves  to  retain  the 
virtue  of  the  vegetable.  The  reverse 
is,  of  course,  the  rule  for  making  soup, 
or  any  dish  from  which  the  water 
will  not  be  drained.  By  placing  the 
vegetables  in  cold  water,  the  albu- 
men is  slowly  dissolved,  and  actual- 
l3T  mixes  with  the  water  — a process 
most  necessary  for  the  production  of 
nutritious  soup.  Dry  vegetables  as  a 
rule  are  cooked  in  cold  water  grad- 
ually heated  to  the  boiling-point. 

Vegetables,  Insects  Cleared  from. — 
Put  plenty  of  cold  water  into  a large 
pan  and  add  salt  in  the  proportion 
of  a large  table-spoonful  to  two  quarts 
of  water.  Lay  the  vegetables  in  this, 
stalk  uppermost,  and  shake  them 
occasionally.  This  will  cause  the  in- 
sects, which  hide  between  the  leaves, 
to  fall  out  and  sink  to  the  bottom  of 
the  pan.  If  liked,  a small  proportion 
of  vinegar  may  be  added  to  the  water 
instead  of  salt,  and  this  will  answer 
the  same  purpose. 

Vegetables,  To  Make  Tender. — When 
pease,  French  beans,  and  similar  veg- 
etables are  old,  or  when  the  water  in 
which  they  are  to  be  boiled  is  hard, 
a very  small  piece  of  soda  may  be 
thrown  in  with  them,  and  this  will 
serve  to  make  them  tender  and  of  a 
good  color.  If  too  much  soda  is  put 
in  the  taste  of  the  vegetables  will  be 
entirely  spoiled. 

Vegetables,  Keeping  of. — When  it 
is  necessary  to  keep  vegetables  for  a 
day  or  two,  spread  them  out  on  a 
cellar  floor,  or  keep  them  in  a perfectly 
dry,  cool  situation,  but  not  exposed 
to  currents  of  air.  Be  careful  that 


each  kind  of  vegetable  is  kept  away 
from  the  other  kinds,  to  prevent  de- 
terioration in  flavor.  Examine  them 
daily  to  ascertain  that  they  are  not 
withering.  Carrots,  turnips,  beets, 
parsnips,  potatoes,  and  beans  keep 
best  in  dry  sand  or  earth  in  a cel- 
lar. The  mould  which  hangs  about 
them  should  be  left  upon  them,  and 
if  any  sprouts  appear,  they  should 
be  carefully  removed.  Cabbages,  if 
spread  out  on  earth  in  a cool  cellar, 
will  keep  good  for  two  or  three  months. 
Celery  and  leeks  also  may  be  kept  for 
two  or  three  months  in  a cellar,  in 
boxes  filled  with  earth.  The  stalk 
ends  of  asparagus  and  cucumbers, 
on  the  contrary,  should  be  placed  in 
about  two  inches  of  cold  water.  Store 
onions  should  be  hung  in  a cool,  dry 
place.  Vegetables  should  not  be  wash- 
ed or  placed  in  water  until  a short 
time  before  they  are  to  be  used. 

Vegetables  Preserved  by  Drying. 
—A  convenient  method  of  preparing 
desiccated  vegetables,  as  practised 
largely  in  some  countries,  consists 
in  drying  them  for  a short  time  and 
then  exposing  them  to  a slow  heat  in 
ovens.  When  soaked  for  cooking, 
pease,  roots,  potatoes,  beets,  corn,  and 
other  vegetables  swell  out  and  show 
very  little  change  in  their  esculent 
properties.  A modification  of  this 
process  consists  in  placing  the  vege- 
tables, after  being  sun-dried,  in  paper 
bags,  which  are  pasted . up  at  the 
mouth,  and  then  covered  with  sand, 
and  heated  till  perfectly  crisp,  but  not 
burned  or  materially  altered  in  color. 

Vegetable  Essences,  To  Extract. — 
The  flavor  of  various  herbs  may  be 
extracted  as  follows  : Pick  the  leaves, 
and  put  them  in  a warm  place  for 
an  hour  or  two.  Fill  a large,  wide- 
mouthed bottle  with  them,  and  pour 
upon  them  wine,  brandy,  spirits  of 
wine,  or  vinegar.  Let  them  soak  for 
a fortnight.  Strain  the  liquor,  and 
put  it  into  small  bottles  for  use. 

Vegetable  Cutters.  — By  means  of 
these  little  instruments,  which  can  be 
bought  in  any  house-furnishing  store, 
vegetables  are  cut  into  fanciful  shapes, 
to  tfie  great  improvement  in  appear- 


Vegetable  Curry 


VEGETABLES 


Artichokes 


ance  of  those  dishes  in  which  vege- 
tables form  an  important  feature. 

Vegetable  Curry. — Grate  a cocoa- 
nut  the  day  before  it  is  to  be  used,  and 
pour  over  it  two  cups  of  boiling  water. 
Strain  it  through  a cloth  and  press  the 
meat  dry.  Put  the  liquid  in  a cool 
place  until  the  next  day.  When  the 
curry  is  required,  slice  three  good- 
sized  onions  and  three  peeled  toma- 
toes, chop  fine  one  green  pepper,  and 
wash  and  break  into  flowerets  one  nice 
cauliflower.  In  a good-sized  sauce- 
pan put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  melted 
butter  and  the  sliced  onions  and 
tomatoes,  and  cook  five  minutes ; 
then  add  the  pepper  and  the  cauli- 
flower. Remove  the  cream  from  the 
cocoanut  milk  and  pour  the  milk  over 
the  vegetables ; cover  and  let  the  veg- 
etables simmer  ten  minutes.  Mean- 
while mix  one  teaspoonful  each  of 
turmeric  and  curry  powder  with  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  chicken  jelly,  and 
stir  the  mixture  into  the  cooking 
vegetables.  Again  cover  and  let 
them  cook  slowly  twenty  minutes 
before  adding  one  table-spoonful  of 
butter  blended  with  one  of  flour,  and 
moistened  with  the  cocoanut  cream. 
Stir  carefully.  Season  with  salt  and 
let  the  sauce  boil  up  once,  and  serve. 

Vegetables,  Dried,  for  Julienne 
and  Clear  Soups. — As  vegetables  for 
soups  are  rather  troublesome  to  cut, 
especially  for  those  unaccustomed 
to  the  work,  and  as  fresh,  choice 
vegetables  are  not  always  to  be  had, 
the  cook  will  find  it  both  convenient 
and  economical  to  have  at  hand  a 
small  quantity  of  dried  vegetables. 
These  vegetables  are  light  in  weight, 
and  in  appearance  something  like 
chips.  They  need  only  to  be  soaked 
in  cold  water  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour,  then  put  into  a saucepan  over 
the  fire,  still  in  cold  water  slightly 
salted,  and  boiled  like  fresh  vege- 
tables. The  clear  soup  should  then 
be  poured  over  them,  and  the  whole 
boiled  together  for  a quarter  of  an 
hour.  They  will  have  the  flavor  and 
appearance  of  fresh  vegetables. 


Vegetable  Pies.  — A delicate  pie- 
crust, or  one  made  of  light  mashed 
potatoes,  may  be  used  to  cover  them. 
Almost  without  exception  the  vege- 
tables for  pies  should  be  cooked  be- 
forehand. They  will  be  richer  if 
first  fried  in  a little  butter,  then 
covered  with  either  stock  or  water 
and  cooked  very  slowly  until  tender. 
The  following  combinations  go  well 
together,  placing  the  vegetables  in 
the  dish  in  alternate  layers  : Carrots 
cut  in  finger-lengths,  slices  of  onion, 
spoonfuls  of  canned  tomatoes,  and  a 
layer  of  cooked  macaroni  covered  with 
crumbs  and  bits  of  butter  for  the 
top  of  this  pie.  Season  highly  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  fill  the  dish  with 
the  liquor  from  the  tomatoes,  or  brown- 
ed gravy,  if  it  may  be  used.  Another 
pie  is  made  with  alternate  layers  of 
pease,  mushrooms,  a little  onion,  and 
stewed  celery.  Moisten  with  the 
liquor  the  celery  has  been  cooked  in. 
In  fact,  all  vegetables  seem  to  be 
capable  of  being  made  into  pies  to 
suit  the  taste. 

Apples.  See  Fruits. 

Artichokes  a la  Lyonnaise. — Wash, 
blanch,  and  trim  four  artichokes ; 
then  place  them  in  a stewpan  with  2 
ozs.  of  butter,  the  juice  of  a lemon,  a 
pinch  of  salt,  and  a pinch  of  pepper. 
Simmer  them  gently  until  they  are 
sufficiently  cooked,  then  drain  them 
from  the  fat,  and  put  them  into  the 
oven  to  brown  lightly.  Put  a cupful 
of  good  stock  into  the  saucepan  in 
which  the  artichokes  were  stewed. 
Stir  gently  for  a few  minutes,  add  a 
glassful  of  white  wine,  and  serve. 
Time,  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Artichokes  a la  Gouffe,  Fried. — 

Wash  and  trim  three  young,  freshly 
cut  artichokes.  Cut  them  into  thin 
slices,  and  as  they  are  cut  throw 
them  into  water  with  a cupful  of  vine- 
gar in  it ; this  is  to  preserve  the  color. 
Drain  them,  and  season  them  with  a 
pinch  of  salt  and  the  same  of  pepper. 
Make  a batter  with  three  eggs,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  oil,  and  two  of 


404 


Artichokes 


VEGETABLES 


Asparagus  Tip9 


flour.  When  all  are  well  mixed,  put 
the  slices  of  artichokes  into  it,  and 
stir  it  gently  for  three  or  four  min- 
utes, until  every  piece  of  artichoke 
is  well  covered.  Fry  gently  in  hot 
fat,  being  careful  that  the  vegetable 
is  cooked  throughout  as  well  as 
browned.  Drain  off  the  fat,  pile  the 
slices  on  a napkin,  and  garnish  with 
a little  fried  parsley.  Time  to  fry,  a 
quarter  of  an  horn 

Artichokes  a la  Italienne.  — Well 
wash,  trim,  and  quarter  the  arti- 
chokes, and  boil  them  in  salt  and 
water  until  tender.  Remove  the 
chokes,  drain  thoroughly,  and  ar- 
range them  on  a dish  with  the  leaves 
outward,  and  intersperse  them  with 
watercresses.  Pour  good  white  sauce, 
flavored  with  stewed  mushrooms,  over 
them.  Time  to  bcil  the  artichokes, 
half  an  hour. 

Artichokes,  Jerusalem,  Boiled. — 

Peel  the  artichokes,  and  throw  each 
root  into  cold  water  and  vinegar  im- 
mediately, to  preserve  the  color.  Put 
them  into  boiling  water,  with  a little 
salt,  until  sufficiently  tender  for  a fork 
to  pass  through  them  easily,  then 
pile  them  on  a dish,  and  serve  as  hot 
as  possible  with  melted  butter  or 
white  sauce  poured  over.  Time  to 
boil,  about  twenty  minutes.  They 
should  be  tried  with  a fork  frequently 
after  a quarter  of  an  hour,  as  they 
will  become  black  and  tasteless  if 
allowed  to  remain  on  the  fire  longer 
than  necessary. 

Artichokes  a la  Poivrade. — Take 
four  or  five  young  artichokes,  trim 
them,  remove  the  chokes,  cut  off  the 
lower  leaves,  divide  them  into  four, 
and  throw  them  into  vinegar  and 
cold  water  to  preserve  the  color. 
When  wanted,  drain  them  from  the 
vinegar  and  water,  put  them  into  a 
dish,  and  serve  like  radishes.  Pep- 
per, salt,  oil,  and  vinegar  should  be 
sent  to  table  with  them. 

Asparagus,  Boiled. — Scrape  off  the 
white  skin  from  the  lower  end  of  a 


bunch  of  asparagus  and  cut  the 
stalks  of  equal  length.  Let  them 
lie  in  cold  water  until  it  is  time  to 
cook  them.  Put  a handful  of  salt 
into  a gallon  of  water ; let  it  boil. 
Tie  the  asparagus  in  bundles  and 
put  them  into  it.  Toast  a slice  of 
bread  brown  on  each  side,  dip  it  in 
the  water,  and  lay  it  on  a dish.  When 
the  asparagus  is  sufficiently  cooked, 
dish  it  on  the  toast,  leaving  the  white 
ends  outwards  each  way.  Send  melt- 
ed butter,  or  white  sauce,  to  table 
with  it.  Time  to  cook,  about  twenty 
minutes.  If  inclined  to  be  slightly 
bitter  add  a lump  of  loaf  sugar  to  the 
water. 

Asparagus,  French  Method  of  Cook- 
ing.— Wash  and  boil  the  asparagus 
about  twenty  minutes ; then  drain 
them,  and  cut  off  the  heads  and  about 
two  inches  of  the  tender  part  of  the 
stalks ; mince  them  small,  and  mix 
with  them  an  onion,  also  chopped 
small.  Add  the  well-beaten  yolk  of 
an  egg,  salt,  and  pepper.  Heat  it, 
put  a slice  of  toast  upon  it,  and  pour 
a good  sauce  over  all,  or  sippets  of 
toasted  bread  may  be  placed  under  it. 

Asparagus,  Ragout  of. — Take  the 
tender  parts  of  boiled  asparagus ; 
mince  some  parsley  and  young  on- 
ions with  a few  leaves  of  lettuce  ; 
put  them  in  a saucepan  with  butter, 
a little  water,  salt  and  pepper,  a little 
nutmeg,  and  a pinch  of  flour;  sim- 
mer, stirring  occasionally  until  done. 
Scald  the  asparagus  in  this,  and 
serve  very  hot  with  croutons  of  fried 
bread  and  egg  sauce. 

Asparagus  Tips  as  Pease. — Take 
off  about  two  inches  of  the  head-ends 
of  the  asparagus  ; cut  them  into  pieces 
about  the  size  of  pease,  and  put  them 
into  a saucepan  with  some  cold  salt 
and  water.  Let  them  boil  about  ten 
minutes ; then  take  them  out,  drain 
them,  melt  a piece  of  butter  the  size 
of  an  egg  in  a saucepan,  and  place 
them  in  it.  Shake  the  saucepan 
over  the  fire  for  a few  minutes ; then 
sprinkle  a dessert-spoonful  of  flour 


405 


Beans,  Boston 


VEGETABLES 


Beans,  Lima 


over  it,  and  a small  teacupful  of  boil- 
ing water,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste, 
and  pour  over  the  asparagus  the 
beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  mixed 
with  four  table  - spoonfuls  of  new 
milk.  Let  all  simmer  gently  for  five 
or  ten  minutes,  then  serve.  Time, 
half  an  hour.  Allow  a hundred  for 
a tureenful. 

Beans,  Boston  Baked.  — Pick  over 
the  beans,  rejecting  all  imperfect 
ones ; soak  them  overnight ; in  the 
morning  parboil  them  till  the  skins 
crack  open,  dip  them  from  the  kettle 
with  a perforated  skimmer  into  a 
glazed  earthen  pot,  salt  to  taste. 
Put  in  the  top  of  the  pot  a piece  of  fat 
salt  pork  with  the  rind  scored,  cover 
with  water,  put  on  a cover  of  dough 
or  tin,  and  bake  in  an  oven  not  very 
hot  for  six  hours.  If  the  oven  is  of 
brick  they  may  be  put  in  at  night 
and  remain  till  morning.  Butter  or 
suet  may  be  used  instead  of  pork. 
Sometimes  a table  - spoonful  of  mo- 
lasses is  put  in  when  the  salt  is 
added. 

Beans,  Creamed. — Soak  a pint  of 
beans  in  cold  water  overnight.  In 
the  morning  put  them  on  the  range 
in  enough  slightly  salted  water  to 
cover  them,  and  let  them  boil  steadily 
until  they  are  broken  to  pieces  and 
not  a wholfe  bean  remains.  They 
may  simmer  all  day  without  injury 
to  them,  care  being  taken  to  renew 
the  water  as  fast  as  it  boils  away. 
One  hour  before  the  meal  for  which 
they  are  destined,  rub  the  beans 
through  a colander ; add  to  the  pulp 
thus  formed  a white  sauce.  This 
is  made  by  cooking  together  a table- 
spoonful of  butter  and  one  of  flour, 
pouring  a large  cupful  of  milk  over 
them,  and  stirring  until  thick  and 
smooth.  Mix  the  bean -pulp  thor- 
oughly with  this  sauce,  and,  last  of 
all,  add  two  well-beaten  eggs  ; pepper 
and  salt  to  taste.  Beat  all  hard  for  a 
minute,  turn  into  a buttered  pudding- 
dish,  sprinkle  fine  bread-crumbs  over 
the  top,  and  bake  in  a hot  oven  until 
lightly  browned.  Serve  at  once. 


Bean  Croquettes.  — One  cupful  of 
dried  white  beans,  four  table-spoonfuls 
of  bread  - crumbs  — those  of  whole- 
wheat bread  are  the  best ; one  table- 
spoonful of  butter,  one  heaping  tea- 
spoonful of  minced  onion,  parsley, 
and  sweet-marjoram,  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  a little  pepper.  Soak 
the  beans  all  night  in  cold  water. 
In  the  morning  boil  until  tender,  drain 
them,  and  mash  smooth.  If  you  wish, 
you  can  rub  them  through  a colander, 
thus  ridding  them  of  the  husks. 
Mix  with  them  the  other  ingredients. 
Flour  the  hands,  make  the  mixture 
into  oval  balls,  dip  them  in  raw  egg, 
roll  them  in  fine  crumbs,  and  fry 
them  in  deep  fat,  like  other  croquettes. 

Beans,  Lima,  and  Green  Corn. — 

Two-thirds  of  green  corn  cut  from 
the  cob ; one  - third  of  lima  beans. 
Put  into  enough  boiling  water  to 
cover  them,  and  stew  gently  together 
until  very  tender,  stirring  occasionally 
then  pour  off  nearly  all  the  water  and 
add  a large  cupful  of  milk;  stew  in 
the  milk  for  an  hour ; then  stir  in  a 
large  lump  of  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
a table-spoonful  of  cream,  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste.  String  beans  may  be 
substituted  for  the  lima  beans. 

Beans,  Lima,  with  Ham  or  Bacon. 

— The  beans  must  be  boiled  separate- 
ly and  not  with  the  ham.  They  should 
be  young,  and  only  shelled  just  before 
cooking.  Put  them  into  boiling  water 
with  a little  salt,  boil  very  quickly, 
drain,  and  pour  parsley  sauce  over 
them.  Place  the  ham  on  the  beans. 
Time,  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  to  boil. 

Beans,  Lima,  Mashed.  — This  is 

the  only  way  in  which  old  beans  may 
be  cooked  to  advantage.  They  should 
be  first  boiled  in  the  ordinary  way 
fully  half  an  hour,  by  which  time  the 
skins  will  have  burst,  and  they  may 
be  easily  removed.  Mash  them  with 
the  back  of  a wooden  spoon  until  quite 
smooth,  then  put  them  back  into  the 
stewpan  with  a little  sugar,  butter, 
pepper,  and  salt.  Warm  up,  and 
then  press  them  into  a buttered  mould. 


Beans,  Lima 


Beans,  String 


VEGETABLES 


The  mould  should  be  hot  and  kept  hot 
until  ready  to  serve ; then  turn  out. 

Beans,  Lima,  a la  Poulette. — Boil 
one  quart  of  young,  broad  beans  over 
a quick  fire  until  nearly  done ; then 
put  them  into  a stewpan  with  sweet 
herbs  very  finely  cut,  a little  sugar, 
half  a pint  of  stock ; pepper  and  salt 
at  discretion.  Before  beginning  to 
stew,  see  that  the  beans  are  well 
drained  from  the  water  in  which  they 
were  boiled.  Stew  until  half  the  liq- 
uor is  absorbed,  and  just  as  they  are 
on  the  point  of  simmering  beat  up 
the  yolk  of  an  egg  with  a quarter  of 
a pint  of  cream,  and  add  it  to  them. 
Time,  ten  minutes  to  boil;  fifteen  to 
stew. 

Beans,  Lima,  to  Stew.  — Have 
ready  a good  rich  brown  gravy.  Cut 
up  some  small  onions,  chives,  and 
parsley;  throw  them  into  the  gravy 
and  simmer  for  ten  minutes  before 
the  beans  are  pxit  in.  Sprinkle  a 
quart  of  beans  with  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  salt,  one  of  pepper,  and  one  of  sug- 
ar; mix  together  and  put  them  into 
the  gravy.  Stir  the  beans  gently 
over  a slow  fire  till  the  gravy  is  ab- 
sorbed by  them.  In  ten  minutes  serve 
them  up. 

Beans,  String. — Boil  and  drain  the 
beans  in  the  usual  way,  and  put  them 
into  a stewpan  with  some  butter 
thickened  with  flour.  Add  chopped 
parsley,  thyme,  chives,  etc.,  and  a 
small  cupful  of  stock ; season  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Stew  for  some 
time,  then  thicken  with  two  eggs  well 
beaten  up  with  a little  milk  or  cream, 
and  serve  quickly.  A little  lemon- 
juice  may  also  be  added.  Time  to 
stew,  ten  minutes. 

Beans,  String,  Boiled. — No  mode 
of  cooking  can  make  very  old  ones 
eatable.  Put  them  as  they  are  pre- 
pared into  cold  water.  They  are  cut 
according  to  taste — lengthwise  into 
thin  strips,  or  obliquely  into  a lozenge 
form.  The  strings  should  be  drawn 
off  with  the  tops  and  stalks  when  they 


are  come  to  their  proper  growth. 
Put  them  into  a large  saucepan  of 
boiling  water,  slightly  salted,  allow 
the  steam  to  escape,  and  keep  boiling 
very  fast  until  tender.  Time,  fifteen 
minutes  if  young ; twenty  to  twenty- 
five  minutes  if  old. 

Beans,  String,  a la  Bretonne. — 

Put  some  butter  into  a stewpan  with 
chopped  onion  and  a little  flour. 
Brown,  but  do  not  blacken  the  butter  ; 
pour  in  a little  broth,  or  water.  Stir 
till  it  is  slightly  thick,  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  in  the 
haricots  already  cooked  and  boiled ; 
simmer  them  about  twenty  minutes 
in  the  broth  and  serve  hot. 

Beans,  String,  a la  Francaise. — 

Cut  and  boil  i lb.  of  French  beans; 
drain  well  and  put  them  into  a stew- 
pan over  the  fire  to  dry  or  absorb 
the  moisture ; shake  the  pan,  that 
they  may  not  burn.  When  quite  free 
from  the  water,  add  3 ozs.  of  fresh 
butter,  the  juice  of  half  a lemon, 
pepper,  salt,  and  a table  - spoonful 
of  good  gravy.  Keep  shaking  the 
stewpan  until  the  beans  are  quite  hot, 
and  serve  quickly.  Time,  quarter 
of  an  hour  to  boil;  ten  minutes  to 
stew. 

Beans,  String,  with  Gravy. — Dis- 
solve 4 ozs.  of  butter  in  a pan,  and 
stir  into  it  3 ozs.  of  flour  till  it  be- 
comes brown  and  quite  smooth.  Mix 
a little  gravy,  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Take  any  quan- 
tity of  this  ; souse  and  simmer  the 
beans,  previously  boiled,  for  twenty 
minutes. 

Beans,  String,  a la  Maitre  d’Hotel. 

— Prepare  and  boil  1 lb.  of  beans  in  the 
usual  manner ; see  that  they  are  well 
drained  from  the  water.  Keep  them* 
hot,  and  when  dry  put  them  into  a 
.stewpan  with  2 ozs.  of  melted  butter, 
half  a teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
a little  salt,  and  a tea-spoonful  of 
lemon-juice.  Shake  the  pan  over  a 
brisk  fire,  mix  well,  and  serve  hot  in 
eight  minutes. 


407 


Beans,  String 


VEGETABLES 


Brussels  Sprouts 


Beans,  String,  Omelet  of.— Cut  up 

two  table-spoonfuls  of  French  beans 
into  small  pieces,  and  stir  them  into 
four  eggs  which  have  been  previously 
beaten;  next  add  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  grated  cheese,  and  pepper  and  salt 
to  taste.  When  thoroughly  mixed 
put  the  whole  into  a delicately  clean 
omelet-pan  with  2 ozs.  of  .butter,  and 
fry  a pale  brown.  Time,  three  to  five 
minutes. 


Beans,  String,  a la  Provencale. — 

Brown  some  slices  of  onion  with  oil 
instead  of  butter  ; make  them  of  a light 
brown,  and  add  some  French  beans 
that  have  been  prepared  and  boiled 
m the  ordinary  way,  with  chopped 
parsley,  thyme,  chives,  and  bay-leaf 
As  soon  as  the  vegetables  are  done 
remove  them  on  to  a dish ; put  a little 
vinegar  into  the  pan,  boil  „p,  .and 
throw  over  the  beans.  If  oil  be  dis- 
liked, fry  the  onions  in  butter  and 
add  gravy  instead  of  vinegar  ' The 
Juice  of  a lemon  is  sometimes  pre- 
ferred. ^ 


Beans,  String,  Salad  of.  — Take 
cold  beans  which  have  been  well 
drained  from  the  water.  Saturate 
them  with  vinegar,  and  let  them  lie 
in  it  for  twenty  minutes.  Drain 
again,  and  add  some  oil,  if  liked,  and 
a little  pepper  and  salt.  Beans  may 
be  eaten  with  any  salad  sauce. 


Beets  retain  their  sugary,  delicate 
flavor  to  perfection  if  they  are  baked 
instead  of  boiled.  Turn  them  fre- 
quently while  in  the  oven,  using  a 
knife,  as  the  fork  allows  the  juice  to 
run  out.  When  done,  remove  the 
skin,  and  serve  with  butter,  salt,  and 
pepper  on  the  slices. 


cut  in  slices  and  with  melted  butter 
in  a tureen. 


, ~i » ’ , VVfclsn  and  boil  till 

R1emove  skins  -and  cut 
nto  thm  slices.  Roll  oz.  of  butter 

Vnd  * in  rather  more 
than  half  a pint  of  water,  adding  a 
table-spoonful  of  vinegar,  and  salt 
and  Pepper  to  taste.  Put  the  slices 
of  beet  into  the  liquid,  cover  the  sauce- 
pan closely,  and  allow  all  to  stew 
lor  an  hour  and  ten  minutes.  Care 
must  be  taken  not  to  cut  the  beet-root 
belore  boiling,  as  the  color  would  be 
destroyed  by  so  doing.  Serve  the 
stew  with  a garnish  of  boiled  button- 
onions. 


Brussels  Sprouts. — Pick,  trim,  and 
wash.  Put  them  into  plenty  of  fast- 
boiling water.  The  sudden  immer- 
sion of  the  vegetables  will  check  the 
boiling  for  some  little  time,  but  they 
must  be  brought  to  a boil  as  juickly 
as  possible,  that  they  mav  not  lose 
their  green  color;  add  a table-spoon- 
ful  of  salt,  keep  the  saucepun  un- 
covered, and  boil  very  fast  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Lose  no  time  in  draining 
them  when  sufficiently  done ; and  serve 
plain,  or  with  a little 'white  sauce  over 
the  top. 

Brussels  Sprouts,  Saut<§.  — Wash 
and  drain  1 lb.  of  sprouts ; put  them 
into  boiling  water  for  fifteen  minutes, 
with  y2  oz.  of  salt  to  each  gallon,  and 
when  done  dry  them  on  a clean  cloth. 
Dissolve  y2  oz.  of  butter  in  a pan, 
and  shake  the  sprouts  in  it  over  the 
fire  for  a minute  or  two ; season  them 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  a little  nutmeg, 
and  serve  very  hot.  Small  sprouts 
have  the  most  delicate  flavor. 


Beets,  Boiled.  — Excellent  as  a 
salad,  and  as  a garnish  for  other 
salads  it  is  very  important  on  ac- 
count of  its  beautiful  bright  color. 
In  cleansing  it  before  boiling,  take 
care  not  to  break  the  skin,  or  it  will 
lose  its  color  and  become  sickly  look- 
ing. Remove  it  from  the  saucepan, 
carefully  peel,  and  trim  nicely.  Serve 


Brussels  Sprouts.— Trim  the  heads 
and  remove  the  withered  leaves  of 
one  quart  of  fresh  Brussels  sprouts. 
Wash  them  and  rub  them  well  in  cold 
water  to  remove  all  the  sand.  Put 
them  in  two  quarts  of  boiling  water 
for  five  minutes,  drain  them,  plunge 
them  in  cold  water,  drain  again,  then 
put  them  in  one  quart  of  boiling  wa  ter 


408 


Cabbage 


VEGETABLES  Cabbage,  Creamed 


with  I lb.  of  Chipolata  sausages. 
Cook  twelve  minutes,  and  drain  per- 
fectly dry.  Serve  the  sprouts  in  a 
vegetable-bowl  with  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  butter  in  the  centre,  no  salt, 
no  pepper,  the  sausages  being  suf- 
ficiently seasoned.  Put  in  the  oven 
to  keep  hot  while  the  sausages  are 
being  broiled  for  two  minutes  on  each 
side.  Cut  the  sausages  carefully  one 
from  the  other,  and  serve  them  over 
the  sprouts  steaming  hot. 

Cabbage  (French  method). — Quar- 
ter a cabbage,  lay  it  for  an  hour  in 
strong  salt  water.  Have  a saucepan  of 
boiling  water  ready,  throw  in  a table- 
spoonful of  salt  and  a small  piece  of 
common  washing-soda.  Put  in  the 
cabbage,  let  it  boil  furiously  for  twen- 
ty minutes  with  the  lid  of  the  sauce- 
pan off,  drain  it  into  a colander,  press 
off  all  the  water.  Place  the  cabbage 
on  a chopping  - board,  sprinkle  it 
well  with  flour,  and  chop  it  quite 
fine.  Put  a large  lump  of  butter  in 
the  saucepan,  and  as  it  melts  stir  in 
the  cabbage.  Let  it  heat  thoroughly 
for  five  minutes,  and  serve  with  slices 
of  lemon  on  top. 

Cabbage  (German  method). — Select 
a good  hard  drumhead.  Cut  with  a 
slicer  as  for  pickling.  Melt  a lump 
of  butter  or  lard  in  a saucepan,  throw 
in  the  cabbage,  let  it  remain  simmer- 
ing until  softened,  put  in  an  onion 
stuck  with  cloves,  add  water  enough 
to  cover  the  cabbage,  and  let  it  sim- 
mer steadily  for  an  hour.  Just  be- 
fore serving  add  a table-spoonful  of 
vinegar. 

Cabbage  and  Bacon. — Boil  a piece 
of  pickled  pork  until  it  is  about  three- 
quarters  cooked.  Then  take  it  out 
of  the  water,  drain  it,  and  place  two 
or  three  rashers  of  bacon  in  the  sauce- 
pan. Lay  on  these  a cabbage  which 
has  been  thoroughly  washed  and  cut 
into  quarters,  and  put  the  pork  over 
the  cabbage.  Cover  the  whole  with 
nicely  flavored  stock ; add  pepper, 
nutmeg,  and  parsley,  but  no  salt,  as 
it  will  most  likely  be  found  there  is 


sufficient  in  the  bacon  and  stock. 
Simmer  gently  until  the  cabbage  is 
cooked.  Place  the  vegetables  on  a 
hot  dish  with  the  pork  in  the  midst 
of  them;  thicken  the  gravy,  and 
pour  it  over  the  whole.  Time  to  boil 
the  cabbage,  twenty  minutes. 

Cabbage,  Boiled. — To  get  rid  of  the 
disagreeable  smell  of  cabbage,  put 
into  the  water  a piece  of  bread-crumb 
tied  in  a fine  white  rag.  Take  care 
to  throw  this  into  the  fire  after  it 
has  been  a quarter  of  an  hour  in  the 
pot,  as  it  will  have  become  very  un- 
pleasant. The  saucepan  must  be 
large,  and  Yz  oz.  of  salt  is  to  be  used 
to  a gallon  of  water.  The  cabbage 
is  to  be  cut  in  quarters  and  put  in 
salt  and  water  to  clean  from  insects. 
Drain  and  shake,  and  then  put  in  the 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  cover  for 
ten  minutes,  and  keep  on  the  boil, 
then  take  off  the  cover,  thrust  down 
the  cabbage,  place  the  saucepan  where 
it  will  simmer  instead  of  boil,  and  at 
the  end  of  thirty  to  forty-five  minutes 
the  cabbage  will  be  done.  Strain  in 
a colander,  or  between  plates,  till  no 
water  remains  in  the  cabbage.  Serve 
on  a strainer,  or  cut  into  squares  and 
dress  in  a circle.  Young  cabbage 
and  sprouts  take  from  twenty  to 
thirty  minutes  to  cook. 

Cabbage,  Cold  Slaw. — Cut  the  cab- 
bage very  fine  on  a cutter  or  with  a 
knife.  Add  to  it  some  capers,  and 
mix  thoroughly  with  mayonnaise 
dressing.  The  dressing  will  need  to 
be  very  strong  of  vinegar  and  very 
salty. 

Cabbage,  Creamed.  — Thoroughly 
cleanse  two  young  cabbages  and 
boil  them  until  quite  soft.  Take 
them  out,  drain,  and  press  them  be- 
tween two  hot  plates  until  they  are 
dry,  when  they  may  be  slightly 
chopped.  Melt  a piece  of  butter  the 
size  of  an  egg  in  a stewpan,  add  pepper 
and  salt ; then  put  in  the  cabbage,  and 
turn  it  about  for  two  or  three  min- 
utes. When  it  is  thoroughly  heated, 
dredge  a table-spoonful  of  flour  over 


4°9 


Cabbage 


VEGETABLES  Cabbage  Sauerkraut 


it,  and  mix  with  it,  very  gradually, 
a cupful  of  milk  or  cream.  Serve  on 
a hot  dish.  Time,  half  an  hour. 

Cabbage  Equal  to  Cauliflower.  — 

Remove  the  outer  leaves  from  a solid, 
small  - sized  head  of  cabbage,  and 
cut  the  remainder  as  fine  as  for  slaw. 
Have  on  the  fire  a spider  or  deep 
skillet,  and  when  it  is  hot  put  in  the 
cut  cabbage,  pouring  over  it  right 
away  a pint  of  boiling  water.  Cover 
closely,  and  allow  it  to  cook  rapidly 
for  ten  minutes.  Drain  off  the  water 
and  add  half  a pint  of  new  milk,  or 
part  milk  and  cream ; when  it  boils 
stir  in  a large  teaspoonful  of  either 
wheat  or  rice  flour,  moistened  with 
milk ; add  salt  and  pepper,  and,  as 
soon  as  it  comes  to  a boil,  serve. 
Those  who  find  slaw  and  other  dishes 
prepared  from  cabbage  indigestible 
will  not  complain  of  this. 

Cabbage,  Hot  Slaw. — Slice  finely  a 
firm  head  of  cabbage ; sprinkle  it 
with  pepper  and  salt;  beat  up  the 
yolk  of  one  egg  ; add  a lump  of  butter 
the  size  of  a walnut,  a gill  of  cream, 
the  same  quantity  of  vinegar,  a table- 
spoonful of  sugar,  an  even  teaspoon- 
ful of  mustard,  and  a pinch  of  bruised 
celery  seed.  Heat  these  condiments 
mixed  together  in  a tin  cup ; put  the 
slaw  into  a skillet,  and  pour  the  dress- 
ing upon  it  boiling  hot ; stir  it  till 
well  mixed,  then  send  it  to  table  hot. 

Cabbage  a la  Lilloise. — Wash  and 
drain,  and,  after  removing  the  stalk, 
cut  it  into  pieces  about  the  size  of  a 
walnut.  Melt  2 ozs.  of  butter  in  a 
saucepan,  and  fry  in  it  for  a minute 
or  two  a small  teaspoonful  of  finely 
chopped  onion.  Add  the  cabbage, 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  a little  grated 
nutmeg.  Cook  it  over  a slow  fire, 
and  turn  it  frequently  to  prevent 
burning.  Place  on  a hot  dish  and 
serve.  Time  to  prepare,  fifteen  min- 
utes. 

Cabbage,  Red,  Stewed. — Prepare  a 
large  cabbage  as  if  it  were  going  to 
be  pickled.  Melt  2 ozs.  of  butter,  or 


of  good  beef  dripping,  in  a saucepan; 
lay  the  cabbage  upon  it,  and  cover  it 
with  a cupful  of  vinegar  and  a pint  of 
nicely  flavored  stock.  When  it  is 
quite  tender,  season  it  with  salt  and 
pepper,  drain  it,  and  lay  it  on  a hot 
dish,  and  arrange  sausages  round 
and  over  it.  If  preferred,  the  cabbage 
may  be  pressed  into  a mould  and 
poached  eggs  served  with  it.  It  will 
warm  up  again  perfectly.  Time,  one 
hour. 

Cabbage  Sauerkraut. — This  prep- 
aration is  served  as  an  accompani- 
ment to  smoked  meats,  boiled  ham, 
bacon,  beef,  or  sausages.  Sauer- 
kraut is  considered  an  excellent  an- 
tiscorbutic. Take  large  well-grown 
cabbages  with  fine  white  hearts. 
Remove  the  outer  leaves  and  stalks, 
and  shred  the  cabbages  very  finely. 
Cover  the  bottom  of  a tub  with  cab- 
bage-leaves. Throw  in  the  cabbage 
as  it  is  shred,  and  sprinkle  salt  evenly 
upon  the  layers.  One  handful  of  salt 
will  be  amply  sufficient  for  a large 
panful  of  shred  cabbage ; too  much 
salt  will  prevent  fermentation.  Keep 
pressing  the  cabbage  down  closely 
as  it  is  thrown  in.  When  the  vessel 
is  quite  full,  sprinkle  a little  salt  over 
the  top,  and  cover  it  first  with  cab- 
bage leaves  and  then  with  a linen 
cloth ; lay  a wooden  cover  over  all, 
and  on  this  put  a heavy  weight. 
Keep  the  tub  in  a warm  cellar  till 
fermentation  has  begun.  It  should 
then  be  kept  in  a cool  place  till  wanted. 
Once  a week  the  cabbage  - leaves 
should  either  be  renewed  or  washed, 
and  the  linen  cloth  should  be  washed 
in  cold  water  and  replaced.  Caraway 
seeds  and  juniper-berries  are  some- 
times added  to  the  layers.  The  cab- 
bages will  be  all  the  better  if  they 
are  allowed  to  lie  in  a cool  corner  for 
several  days  before  being  used.  Time, 
three  weeks  to  prepare. 

To  Cook. — Lay  a good-sized  piece 
of  butter  in  a kettle,  and  let  it  melt. 
Put  in  half  the  sauerkraut,  and  lay 
on  this  the  meat  to  be  made  ready 
with  it — either  ham  or  bacon  smoked 
and  pared,  pork,  or  any  sort  of  sau- 


4IQ 


Cabbage,  Stuffed 


VEGETABLES 


Carrots 


sage.  Over  all  place  the  other  half 
of  the  kraut,  and  add  a little  water 
occasionally  to  moisten  it.  Cover 
the  saucepan  closely,  and  let  the  con- 
tents stew  gently  till  the  sauerkraut 
is  soft.  When  cooked  enough,  take 
out  the  meat.  Let  the  kraut  stew 
half  an  hour  longer,  then  place  the 
meat  again  in  the  kettle  to  get  quite 
hot.  Stir  the  kraut  now  and  then 
with  a wooden  spoon,  and  take  care 
that  it  does  not  burn.  What  is  left 
over  of  the  sauerkraut  is  good  warmed 
up  on  the  following  day  or  a day  or 
two  after ; it  may  be  served  with  some 
other  meat.  It  is  to  be  observed  that 
sauerkraut  can  hardly  be  cooked 
too  much.  It  requires  at  first  from 
two  and  a half  to  three  hours'  stew- 
ing. 

Cabbage,  Stuffed.  — Cut  out  the 
root  and  remove  one  leaf  all  around 
a sound  Savoy  cabbage.  Wash,  and 
in  a kettle  of  salted  boiling  water 
cook  ten  minutes;  drain,  plunge  in 
cold  water ; drain  again,  and  squeeze 
the  water  off.  Scoop  the  heart  out, 
making  it  a bowl-like  shape  inside 
to  receive  the  stuffing ; chop  fine  two 
large  onions,  and  put  them  in  a small 
saucepan  with  one  heaping  table- 
spoonful of  butter;  cook  four  min- 
utes, tossing  them  so  they  do  not 
brown ; chop  fine  the  heart  of  the 
cabbage ; add  the  onions  and  I lb.  of 
sausage-meat,  or  l lb.  of  fresh  pork, 
half  lean,  half  fat,  and  chopped  fine. 
Add  one  table-spoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  season  with  one  teaspoonfid 
of  salt,  one  salt -spoonful  of  black 
pepper ; mix  everything  well ; add 
two  raw  eggs  and  mix  well  again. 
Stuff  the  cabbage  tightly  clear  to  the 
top ; clo.se  it  with  two  of  its  leaves 
and  tie  it  well.  Cut  in  thin  slices  Yz 
lb.  of  bacon,  cover  the  bottom  of  a 
brazier  with  them,  and  put  the  cab- 
bage in.  Pour  in  half  a pint  of  broth, 
cook  one  hour  and  a half,  basting 
from  time  to  time.  Remove  the  cat> 
bage  from  the  pan,  take  off  the  leaves 
from  the  top,  sprinkle  over  half  a 
pint  of  white  bread-crumbs ; strain 
the  gravy,  pour  it  over,  and  place  in 


the  hot  oven  for  thirty  minutes,  bast- 
ing twice. 

Another  way  : — A stuffed  cabbage 
makes  a good  dish,  but  many  who 
like  cabbage  do  not  cook  any  on 
account  of  its  unpleasant  odor  while 
cooking.  This  is  easily  prevented 
by  putting  into  the  pot  or  pan  with 
the  cabbage  a piece  of  charcoal  wrap- 
ped up  in  a rag,  and  by  simmering 
the  cabbage  instead  of  boiling  it. 
Clean  and  blanch  the  cabbage  in 
boiling  water  and  salt  for  about 
ten  minutes ; take  off,  and  drop  it 
into  cold  water  and  drain ; remove 
a few  of  the  centre  leaves  and  fill 
their  place  with  sausage  - meat,  to 
which  you  may  add  a few  yolks  of 
eggs.  Be  careful  not  to  break  the 
leaves ; then  tie  it  with  twine,  giving 
it  its  original  form  as  nearly  as  possi- 
ble. Put  on  the  bottom  of  a pan  a 
few  pieces  of  salt  pork,  the  same  of 
veal,  if  handy,  and  also  of  ham,  two 
or  three  onions  sliced,  same  of  car- 
rots, a bay-leaf,  and  two  or  three 
cloves;  place  the  cabbage  on  the 
whole,  cover  with  broth  or  water 
(broth  is  better),  add  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste,  simmer  for  an  hour  and  a 
half ; take  the  cabbage  off  carefully 
and  dish  it,  remove  the  twine,  skim 
the  fat  from  the  sauce,  turn  it  over 
the  cabbage  through  a strainer,  and 
serve  warm. 

Carrots. — Carrots  and  turnips  cut 
into  dice  or  balls  and  boiled  separately 
are  mixed  together  and  moistened  with 
a white  sauce.  Carrots  and  green 
pease  are  boiled  separately,  then 
mixed  and  moistened  with  a bechamel 
or  white  sauce ; flavor  to  taste. 

Carrots  (to  dress  in  the  German 
way). — Melt  2 ozs.  of  butter  in  a sauce- 
pan. Lay  in  it  six  carrots  cut  into 
thin  slices,  with  a little  salt,  pepper, 
grated  nutmeg,  and  a teaspoonful  of 
finely  minced  onion.  Let  them  re- 
main until  tender,  adding  every  now 
and  then,  as  it  is  required,  a little  water 
or  stock.  Thicken  the  sauce  with  a 
little  flour,  and  about  a quarter  of  an 
hour  before  serving  add  one  table- 


411 


Carrots  a la  Flamande  VEGETABLES 


Cauliflower,  Fried 


spoonful  of  finely  minced  parsley. 
Time,  one  hour. 

Carrots  a la  Flamande. — Take  a 
bunch  of  young  carrots,  wash  them 
well,  cut  off  the  heads  and  points,  and 
place  them  in  boiling  water  for  five 
minutes.  Take  them  out,  drain,  rub 
off  the  skin  with  a coarse  cloth,  cut 
them  into  very  thin  slices,  and  put 
them  into  a saucepan  with  a cupful 
of  water,  a little  salt  and  pepper,  and 
a piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a small 
egg.  Cover  them  closely,  and  sim- 
mer gently  for  twenty  minutes,  shak- 
ing the  pan  occasionally  in  order  that 
they  may  be  equally  cooked.  Mix 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  a cupful 
of  cream  and  a dessert  - spoonful 
of  finely  chopped  parsley.  Draw  the 
pan  from  the  fire  for  a couple  of 
minutes,  take  off  the  cover,  put  a 
table-spoonful  or  two  of  the  liquid 
with  the  eggs  and  cream,  then  pour 
the  whole  gradually  into  the  sauce- 
pan. Stir  the  sauce  until  it  thickens, 
and  serve  the  carrots  with  the  sauce 
poured  over  them.  Time  to  stew  the 
carrots,  half  an  hour. 

Carrots  a la  Francaise. — Twelve 
new  carrots,  a little  parsley,  some 
seasoning,  a pinch  of  powdered  white 
sugar,  one  lemon,  and  2 ozs.  butter. 
Scrape  and  wash  the  carrots,  put  them 
in  cold  water  with  a little  salt,  boil 
until  tender,  and  drain  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  the  butter,  some  season- 
ing, a pinch  of  white  sugar,  a little 
finely  chopped  parsley,  and  the  juice 
of  one  lemon.  Put  in  the  carrots,  saute 
a few  minutes,  then  serve  very  hot. 

Carrots,  Fried. — Wash  and  partly 
boil  the  carrots  whole  ; cut  them  into 
thin  slices,  dip  them  in  egg  and  fine- 
ly grated  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in 
hot  butter  or  lard.  Serve  them  piled 
high  on  a dish.  Cold  carrots  may  be 
warmed  up  this  way.  Time  to  fry, 
ten  minutes. 

Carrots,  Purge  of.  — Wash  and 
scrape  some  fine  large  carrots.  Cut 
the  red  part  off  in  thin  slices,  and 


boil  these  for  about  a quarter  of  an 
hour.  Take  them  out,  drain,  and 
put  them  into  a saucepan  with  an 
onion  stuck  with  two  cloves,  a little 
salt  and  pepper,  a small  piece  of  butter, 
and  just  enough  stock  to  cover  them. 
Let  them  boil  gently  till  tender,  then 
pass  them  through  a coarse  sieve, 
Place  the  pulp  in  a stewpan  with 
% lb.  of  butter,  a little  grated  nut- 
meg, a small  piece  of  sugar,  and  a 
cupful  of  stock,  and  stir  until  it  is 
thick.  The  puree  may  be  served  with 
stewed  mutton  cutlets  round  it. 
Time,  two  hours  and  a half. 

Cauliflowers,  Boiled. — When  clean- 
ed and  washed,  drop  them  into  boiling 
water,  into  which  you  have  put  salt 
and  a teaspoonful  of  flour,  or  a slice 
of  bread ; boil  till  tender ; take  off, 
drain,  and  dish  them ; serve  with  a 
sauce  spread  over,  and  made  with 
melted  butter,  salt,  pepper,  grated 
nutmeg,  chopped  parsley,  and  vine- 
gar. 

Another  way  : — Make  a white  sauce, 
and,  when  the  cauliflowers  are  dished 
as  above,  turn  the  white  sauce  over 
and  serve  warm.  They  may  also  be 
served  in  the  same  way  with  a milk, 
cream,  or  tomato  sauce,  or  with  brown 
butter. 

Cauliflower  a la  Francaise.  — Cut 

away  the  stalk  and  the  green  leaves, 
and  divide  a cauliflower  into  quarters. 
Put  the  branches  into  a little  vine- 
gar and  water,  then  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  some  boiling  water 
with  a table  - spoonful  of  salt  in  it, 
and  let  them  boil  until  they  are  done. 
This  may  be  ascertained  by  taking 
a little  piece  between  the  finger  and 
thumb,  and  if,  though  still  firm,  it 
gives  way  easily,  it  is  sufficiently 
cooked.  Drain  the  cauliflower  and 
arrange  it  neatly  in  a dish.  Pour 
over  it  a pint  of  good,  melted  butter. 
Time  to  boil,  about  twelve  minutes. 

Cauliflowers,  Fried. — Boil  the  cau- 
liflowers till  about  half  done.  Mix 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  with  two 
yolks  of  eggs,  then  add  water  enough 


412 


Cauliflowers  au  Gratin  VEGETABLES 


Cauliflowers 


to  make  a rather  thin  paste ; add  salt 
to  taste ; the  two  whites  are  beaten 
till  stiff,  and  then  mixed  with  the 
yolks,  flour,  and  water.  Dip  each 
branch  of  the  cauliflowers  into  the 
mixture,  and  fry  them  in  hot  fat. 
When  done,  take  them  off  with  a 
skimmer,  turn  into  a colander,  dust 
salt  all  over,  and  serve  warm. 

Cauliflowers  au  Gratin. — Cleanse, 
trim,  and  quarter-  one  or  two  large 
cauliflowers.  Throw  them  into  boil- 
ing water,  and  let  them  remain  for 
five  minutes ; drain  and  boil  them  in 
plenty  of  salted  water  until  they  are 
ready.  While  they  are  boiling,  mix 
smoothly  together  in  a stewpan  I oz. 
of  butter  and  I oz.  of  flour,  add  a 
quarter  of  a pint  of  cold  water  and  a 
little  pepper  and  salt.  Let  the  sauce 
boil,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  ten 
minutes.  Put  in  with  it  I oz.  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  one 
table-spoonful  of  cream,  and  take  the 
saucepan  from  the  fire.  Cut  the 
cauliflowers  into  neat  pieces ; lay 
half  of  the.se  in  a tureen,  pour  a little 
of  the  sauce  over  them,  and  add  the 
remainder  of  the  vegetables  and  the 
rest  of  the  sauce.  Sprinkle  a large 
table-spoonful  of  bread-raspings  and 
another  of  grated  Parmesan  over  the 
top,  and  bake  the  preparation  in  a hot 
oven  until  it  is  nicely  browned.  Serve 
very  hot.  Time  to  brown,  a quarter 
of  an  hour. 

Cauliflower,  Pain  of,  with  Cream 
Sauce. — Trim  the  leaves  and  wash 
well  a good-sized  cauliflower ; put  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt  in  four  quarts  of 
boiling  water,  and  add  half  a cupful  of 
flour.  This  will  take  off  most  of  the 
strong  odor  of  the  cauliflower,  but, 
above  all,  will  keep  it  white.  Put  the 
cauliflower  in  the  boiling  water  and 
cook  about  thirty  minutes ; remove 
and  drain  well,  so  that  no  water  is  left. 
Pass  it  through  a colander.  Soak 
one  pint  of  white  bread-crumbs  in 
warm  milk,  squeeze  it  well,  and  pass 
it  also  through  the  colander.  Put  it 
in  the  chopping-bowl  with  the  cauli- 
flower. Add  the  yolks  of  three  raw 


eggs,  one  table-spoonful  of  butter,  a 
half  - teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper ; mix  very  well 
together,  and  finish  by  adding  the 
three  whites  of  eggs,  beaten  very  stiff. 
Mix  again  lightly 

Butter  a quart  mould,  pour  the  puree 
in  it,  and  cover  it.  Have  a sauce- 
pan half  full  of  boiling  water,  so  as  to 
reach  up  to  half  an  inch  from  the  top 
of  the  mould.  Cook  constantly  forty- 
five  minutes.  Remove  from  the  water, 
take  the  cover  off,  place  a warm,  round 
plate  over  the  mould,  and  turn  it  over. 

Have  prepared  a nice  cream  sauce. 
Put  in  a small  saucepan  half  a table- 
spoonful of  good  butter,  half  a one  of 
flour ; cook,  stirring  constantly,  for 
three  minutes.  Pour  in  slowly,  stir- 
ring meanwhile,  half  a pint  of  boiled 
milk,  season  with  one  salt-spoonful  of 
salt  and  half  a one  of  white  pepper, 
and  let  it  cook  very  slowly  for  eight 
minutes.  Add  half  a pint  of  good, 
rich  cream ; cook  four  minutes  more ; 
remove  from  the  fire,  add  half  a table- 
spoonful of  fresh  butter  divided  in 
small  lumps.  When  the  butter  is 
melted  pour  the  sauce  over  the  pain  of 
cauliflower. 

Cauliflowers  with  Parmesan  Cheese. 

— Choose  three  or  four  young,  firm, 
white  cauliflowers;  cut  off  the  stalks 
and  the  stems,  making  them  flat,  so 
that  they  will  stand  nicely  in  the 
dish.  Cleanse  them  thoroughly  and 
boil  them  until  tender,  but  not  suffi- 
ciently so  to  run  any  risk  of  their 
breaking.  Dish  them  so  as  to  make 
them  look  like  one  cauliflower,  and 
powder  them  thickly  with  grated  Par- 
mesan cheese.  Pour  a good  sauce 
over  this.  When  it  is  firmly  set  add 
another  layer  of  cheese;  and  strew 
over  this  some  finely  grated  bread- 
crumbs. The  sauce  may  be  made 
thus  : Rub  a table-spoonful  of  flour 

into  Yz  oz.  of  sweet  butter,  mix  it 
smooth^  over  the  fire,  and  add  very 
graduallva  breakfast-cupful  of  water, 
one  pinch  of  salt,  and  a small  pinch 
of  pepper.  Stir  it  constantly  till  it 
boils,  then  take  it  from  the  fire  for 
a minute  or  two,  and  add  slowly  the 


4*3 


Celery  a la  Crfcme  VEGETABLES 


Celery,  Stewed 


yolk  of  an  egg  mixed  with  the  juice 
of  half  a lemon  and  a teaspoonful 
of  water.  Stir  until  the  whole  is 
well  mixed.  Brown  the  cauliflower 
with  a salamander  or  in  a hot  oven, 
pour  a little  sauce  round,  and  serve 
hot,  as  a third-course  dish.  Time  to 
boil  the  cauliflower,  twelve  to  twenty 
minutes. 

Celery  a la  Creme,  Stewed.  — 

Wash  very  clean  two  heads  of  celery, 
trim  them  neatly,  cutting  off  the  outer 
stalks,  the  leaves,  and  the  tops,  and 
boil  them  in  salt  and  water  until 
nearly  tender.  Drain  them  and  put 
them  in  a dish.  Have  ready  in  an- 
other saucepan  a breakfast-cupful  of 
good  cream.  Let  it  boil,  with  a piece 
of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  till  it  is  thick 
and  smooth ; then  pour  it  over  the 
celery,  grate  a little  nutmeg  over  the 
top,  and  serve.  Time  to  boil  the  cel- 
ery, from  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to 
one  hour  and  a half. 

Celery,  Fried. — Cut  stalks  of  celery 
into  three  or  four  inch  lengths.  Even 
if  it  is  not  well  blanched  it  can  be 
used  for  this  purpose.  Beat  together 
one  egg  and  a table-spoonful  of  cold 
water ; roll  your  celery  first  in  this 
and  then  in  fine  crumbs ; sprinkle 
with  a little  salt  and  pepper;  roll 
again  in  the  egg,  and  fry  in  olive  oil. 
Strew  grated  cheese  over  the  stalks 
after  taking  them  from  the  oil  and 
before  sending  to  table. 

Celery  and  Hazel-nuts. — Cut  in 

round,  thin  slices  I lb.  of  large  hazel- 
nuts ; cut  in  the  same  way  four  very 
crisp  celery  hearts.  Mix  with  one 
salt  - spoonful  of  table  salt;  dress 
them  with  a few  white  leaves  of  celery 
around,  and  serve  all  the  hors-d'oeuvre 
on  a silver  platter. 

Celery,  Pur6e  of. — Wash  thorough- 
ly four  heads  of  fresh  white  celery, 
cut  them  into  small  pieces,  and  put 
them  in  a stewpan,  with  an  onion 
sliced,  and  % lb.  of  butter.  Let  them 
simmer  very  gently  till  tender,  then 
add  Y\  lb.  of  flour  mixed  smoothly 


with  a pint  of  milk.  Let  this  boil  up, 
then  pass  the  whole  through  a fine 
sieve,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
a little  piece  of  sugar,  and  add  some 
butter  and  very  thick  cream  to  the 
puree.  Serve  in  the  middle  of  a dish, 
with  cutlets,  etc.,  round.  Time  for 
young  celery,  three  - quarters  of  an 
hour ; if  old,  one  hour  and  a half. 

Celery  Roots  a la  Poulette. — Peel 

and  cut  lengthwise,  like  an  apple, 
two  bunches  of  celery  roots ; put 
them  in  one  quart  of  boiling  water 
for  five  minutes,  drain  them,  and 
plunge  them  in  cold  water;  drain 
again,  put  them  in  a clean  saucepan 
with  one  quart  of  good  broth  ; if  none 
is  at  hand,  half  a teaspoonful  of  beef 
extract  in  the  same  quantity  of  warm 
water  will  replace  it.  Season  with 
half  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper ; if  using  the  beef 
extract,  double  the  quantity  of  sea- 
soning. Cover  the  saucepan  tightly 
and  cook  for  one  hour.  Drain  the 
celery,  reserving  the  broth ; rinse  the 
saucepan  and  put  in  it  half  a table- 
spoonful of  butter  and  half  a one  of 
flour.  Stir  and  cook  four  minutes ; 
don’t  brown.  Strain  the  broth,  add 
it  slowly  to  the  cooked  flour,  add 
half  a pint  of  good  cream,  always 
stirring  ; add  the  cooked  celery,  stir 
gently,  let  cook  very  slowly  ten  min- 
utes. Beat  slightly  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  with  three  table  - spoonfuls  of 
raw  cream  and  half  a table-spoonful 
of  butter.  Remove  the  saucepan 
from  the  fire,  add  the  eggs,  stirring 
gently,  so  as  not  to  break  the  celery. 
Do  not  cook  any  more  after  the  eggs 
are  added  ; serve  in  a silver  vegetable 
dish.  This  recipe  is  also  very  good 
for  large  white  onions. 

Celery,  Stewed. — Wash  four  heads 
of  celery,  very  clean,  trim  them  neatly, 
cutting  off  the  leaves  and  tops ; cut 
them  into  three-inch  lengths  and  tie 
them  in  small  bundles,  and  parboil 
them  in  sufficient  salt  and  water  to 
cover  them.  Drain  and  stew  them, 
until  tender,  in  some  stock.  Brown 
2 ozs.  of  butter  with  a table-spoonful 


Celery  with  White  Sauce  VEGETABLES  Cucumbers,  Stuffed 


of  flour  in  a saucepan,  dilute  it  with 
the  stock  in  which  the  celery  was 
boiled,  lay  the  celery  in  it,  let  it  boil 
for  ten  minutes  more,  and  serve  as 
hot  as  possible.  Time,  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour. 

Celery  with  White  Sauce. — Prepare 
the  celery  as  for  stewing ; let  it  stew 
in  salt  and  water  for  ten  minutes,  then 
drain  it,  and  just  cover  it  with  a little 
veal  broth ; stew  it  again  till  tender. 
As  the  broth  boils  away,  add  a little 
milk.  When  the  celery  is  sufficiently 
cooked,  arrange  it  on  a hot  dish, 
thicken  the  gravy  with  a little  flour 
and  butter,  season  it  lightly  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  it  over  the 
celery.  Time,  one  hour  or  more. 

Corn,  Green,  Boiled.  — Green  corn 
is  too  often  spoiled  by  being  left  too 
long  in  the  water.  Very  young  corn 
will  cook  in  ten  minutes,  and  any 
that  is  not  tender  in  twenty  minutes 
is  too  hard  to  be  eaten  at  all.  Husk 
the  corn,  remove  the  silk,  and  cut  out 
all  imperfect  places.  Put  the  ears 
into  an  iron  pot,  fill  it  with  boiling 
water,  cover  the  pot  closely,  and  boil 
fifteen  minutes.  Corn  is  very  de- 
licious if  boiled  in  the  inside  husk, 
removing  it  before  serving.  It  can 
Ije  loosened  to  remove  the  silk  and 
drawn  up  again. 

Corn,  Dried. — Soak  a day  in  luke- 
warm water ; keep  the  water  in  which 
it  is  soaked ; two  hours  before  dinner 
put  the  corn  and  water  in  a saucepan 
over  the  fire  and  let  cook  slowly  but 
steadily  until  tender.  A little  cream 
added  to  the  milk,  butter,  pepper,  and 
salt  is  desirable,  and  a teaspoonful 
of  sugar  will  give  flavor. 

Corn,  Fried. — Cut  the  corn  off  the 
cob,  taking  care  not  to  bring  off  any 
of  the  husk  with  it,  and  to  have  the 
grains  as  separate  as  possible.  Fry 
in  a little  butter — just  enough  to 
keep  it  from  sticking  to  the  pan ; stir 
very  often.  When  nicely  browned, 
add  salt  and  pepper,  and  a little  rich 
cream.  Do  not  set  it  near  the  stove 


after  the  cream  is  added,  as  it  will  be 
apt  to  turn.  This  makes  a nice  din- 
ner or  breakfast  dish. 

Corn,  Stewed. — Choose  well -filled 
but  tender  ears.  Cut  from  the  cob 
with  two  cuts  to  the  grain,  also  mak- 
ing an  incision  lengthwise  of  the  ear  ; 
it  can  then  be  removed  from  the  cob 
without  the  skin.  Put  the  cobs  on 
to  boil  in  a stewpan,  covering  them 
with  water.  When  well  cooked,  hav- 
ing boiled  about  twenty  minutes,  take 
them  out,  and  into  the  water  in  which 
they  were  boiled  put  the  corn.  When 
sufficiently  stewed  (only  a few  minutes 
are  required),  season  with  pepper, 
salt,  cream,  and  butter,  adding  a little 
sugar,  if  preferred  very  sweet.  This 
recipe  may  be  relied  upon  as  a pe- 
culiarly excellent  one,  the  sweetness 
of  the  corn  being  unsurpassed  when 
the  directions  are  exactly  followed. 
It  originated  in  the  valley  of  Vir- 
ginia. 

Cranberries.  See  Fruits. 

Cucumbers  make  a nice  relish  if 
sliced  the  long  way,  and  fried  as  you 
do  squash  or  egg-plant. 

Cucumbers,  Raw.  — Peel  and  cut 
in  slices  and  lay  them  in  ice -water 
for  one  hour.  Drain  off  the  water, 
and  serve  them  with  a dressing  of 
oil  and  vinegar,  pepper,  salt,  and 
slices  of  onion.  See  also  Salads. 

Cucumbers,  Stewed. — Pare  them, 
and  cut  into  thick  slices ; put  them 
into  a saucepan,  with  a minced  shallot 
and  a little  water,  and  let  them  stew 
for  fifteen  minutes  ; pour  off  the  water, 
stir  in  a little  flour,  butter,  salt,  and 
pepper;  let  it  remain  on  the  fire  two 
or  three  minutes,  and  serve. 

Cucumbers,  Stuffed. — Proportions  : 
Four  good-sized  cucumbers,  one  mid- 
dling-sized onion,  4 ozs.  of  bread,  six 
sprigs  of  parsley,  half  a bay  - leaf, 
a few  stalks  of  chives,  two  cloves, 
2 ozs.  of  butter,  a pinch  of  nutmeg, 
and  a gill  of  broth.  Soak  the  bread 


415 


t.gg-pla.nt 


VEGETABLES  Egg-plant,  Stuffed 


(soft  part)  in  water  thoroughly, 
and  then  press  the  water  out  of  it ; split 
each  cucumber  in  two  lengthwise, 
peel  them,  cut  off  a piece — about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch — at  each  end,  re- 
move the  seed  from  the  inside  with  a 
small  spoon ; slice  the  onion  and 
fry  it  with  the  butter,  then  add  to  it 
the  seeds  removed  from  the  cucum- 
bers, the  bread,  parsley,  bay -leaf, 
chives,  cloves,  nutmeg,  and  broth ; 
the  cloves  and  piece  of  bay-leaf  should 
be  wrapped  up  in  a rag ; stir  now  and 
then,  and  simmer  for  about  five 
minutes.  Have  water  with  a little 
salt  boiling  in  another  pan,  and  drop 
the  cucumbers  in  for  two  minutes; 
take  them  off,  drop  them  into  cold 
water,  and  drain ; then  fill  each  half 
with  the  mixture  of  bread,  onion,  etc. ; 
put  a few  slices  of  fat  salt  pork  into  a 
pan,  place  the  cucumbers  on  them, 
dust  with  bread-crumbs,  put  on  the 
top  of  each,  and  apart,  three  pieces  of 
butter  the  size  of  a bean,  put  the  pan 
into  a hot  oven  until  the  cucumbers 
are  well  baked,  and  serve.  A little 
meat  gravy  may  be  poured  over  each 
just  before  serving. 

Egg-plant. — Cut  into  slices  about 
one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  either 
peeled  or  unpeeled,  whichever  is  pre- 
ferred, and  lay  the  slices  for  two  hours 
in  salt  and  water,  or  place  one  piece 
above  another,  with  a little  salt  be- 
tween, for  an  hour  or  two  ; drain  well ; 
dip  into  egg  or  cream,  and  then 
cracker- crumbs.  Or  make  a thick- 
ening of  flour  and  water,  not  too 
thin ; dip  in,  and  fry  in  very  hot 
butter. 

Egg-plant,  Baked. — Remove  the 
inside  of  an  egg-plant,  but  leave  the 
shell  hard  and  firm.  Be  sure  that 
there  are  no  breaks  or  cracks  in  the 
shell.  Mash  the  pulp  well,  and 
add  bread-crumbs,  a wineglassful  or 
more  of  good  cream,  butter,  and  salt 
(plenty  of  the  latter  especially),  and 
paprika.  Put  all  back  in  the  shell 
and  tie  up  and  bake.  The  length 
of  time  it  will  take  to  bake  depends 
upon  the  size  of  the  egg-plant,  but 


it  will  take  certainly  an  hour,  and 
perhaps  longer. 

Egg-plant,  Gratined,  with  Toma- 
toes.— Cut  the  head  from  a good-sized 
egg-plant  and  scoop  out  the  inside, 
leaving  only  the  sixth  of  an  inch  of  the 
fleshy  part.  Remove  all  the  seeds,  put 
the  pieces  in  a bowl  with  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt  for  one  hour.  Squeeze  them 
well,  to  take  all  the  water  out ; chop 
the  pieces  coarsely,  then  prepare  this 
stuffing  : Cut  in  pieces  one  quart  of 

fresh  tomatoes,  put  them  in  a small 
saucepan  with  three  medium  - sized 
white  onions  sliced,  two  sprigs  of 
parsley,  a small  bay-leaf,  one  clove ; 
cook  fast  for  twenty  minutes,  with 
uncovered  saucepan,  stirring  often. 
Strain  through  a fine  strainer,  letting 
all  the  pulp  of  the  tomatoes  go 
through.  Soak  half  a pint  of  white 
bread-crumbs  in  milk,  squeeze  well, 
add  it  to  the  fleshy  part  of  the  egg- 
plant, and  add  half  of  the  tomato 
puree.  Reserve  the  other  half  to 
serve  as  a sauce.  Add  two  yolks  of 
raw  eggs,  one  table-spoonful  of  butter, 
one  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  one  of  pep- 
per ; mix  everything  well,  fill  up  the 
egg-plant  very  full,  spread  over  the 
top  a thin  layer  of  fine  white  bread- 
crumbs. Put  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
olive  oil  in  a baking-pan  with  the 
egg-plant,  and  cook  in  hot  oven  forty 
minutes ; baste  three  times.  Finish 
the  tomato  puree,  which  is  to  be  served 
as  a sauce  on  the  plate,  by  warming 
it  up  and  seasoning  with  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  half  a one  of  pepper, 
half  a table-spoonful  of  fresh  butter. 

Egg  - plant,  Stuffed.  — Choose  a 
large,  firm  egg-plant  for  this  purpose, 
and  parboil  it  for  ten  minutes,  then 
lay  in  iced  salted  water,  and  leave 
there  for  an  hour.  Make  a force- 
meat of  a cup  and  a half  of  bread- 
crumbs, half  a cup  of  minced  boiled 
ham,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  a tea- 
spoonful of  minced  parsley,  and  a few 
drops  of  onion-juice.  Make  this  into 
a paste  by  adding  a little  cream 
and  a beaten  egg.  Remove  the  egg- 
plant from  the  water,  wipe  it  dry,  and 


416 


Gooseberry 


VEGETABLES 


Lettuce,  Boiled 


cut  in  half,  lengthwise.  Scrape  out 
from  the  inside  the  seeds  and  pulp, 
and  fill  the  cavity  thus  left  with  the 
prepared  force  - meat.  Fit  the  two 
halves  of  the  egg-plant  together,  bind 
them  in  place  by  tying  a soft  cord 
about  them,  lay  in  a dripping-pan, 
and  pour  a cup  of  weak  soup  stock 
about  the  vegetable.  Bake  covered 
for  half  an  hour,  then  transfer  the 
egg-plant  to  a hot  dish  and  carefully 
remove  the  string. 

Gooseberry.  See  Fruits. 

Grits,  Fried. — Grits  left  over  from 
dinner  should  be  spread  on  a dish  in  a 
layer  half  an  inch  thick.  The  next 
day,  for  breakfast  or  dinner,  as  you 
choose,  cut  it  into  pieces  of  convenient 
size,  and  fry  nicely  in  lard.  This  is 
quite  a favorite  dish  in  the  South. 

Hominy,  Baked. — One  cup  of  cold 
boiled  hominy  (small  kind),  two  cups 
of  milk,  a dessert-spoonful  of  butter,  a 
teaspoonful  of  white  sugar,  a little 
salt,  and  three  eggs.  Beat  the  eggs 
very  light,  yolks  and  whites  separate- 
ly. Work  the  yolks  into  the  hominy, 
then  the  butter.  When  thoroughly 
mixed  put  in  sugar  and  salt,  and 
soften  the  batter  gradually  with  the 
milk,  beating  constantly.  Lastly, 
stir  in  the  whites,  and  bake  in  a 
buttered  dish  until  light,  firm,  and 
delicately  browned.  May  be  eaten 
as  a dessert  or  as  a vegetable. 

Hominy,  Boiled. — Wash  and  soak 
the  hominy  twelve  hours,  then  boil 
slowly  for  three  or  four  hours,  adding 
water  from  time  to  time  to  prevent 
burning ; salt  just  before  taking  from 
the  fire.  Hominy  left  over  may  be 
saved  and  fried  for  breakfast  next 
morning. 

Hominy  Cakes.  — Take  of  small 
hominy,  boiled  soft,  one  pint,  and  one 
egg  beaten  light ; mix  them,  and  stir 
in  a spoonful  of  flour  and  a little  milk, 
with  a very  small  lump  of  butter. 
Let  the  batter  be  thin,  and  bake  in 
small  tins. 


Hominy  Croquettes. — To  a cupful 
of  cold  boiled  hominy  add  a table- 
spoonful of  melted  butter ; stir  well, 
then  add  gradually  a cupful  of  milk, 
stirring  until  it  becomes  a soft,  smooth 
paste.  Then  add  a teaspoonful  of 
sugar  and  one  egg,  well  beaten. 
Make  into  balls,  roll  in  beaten  eggs, 
then  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in 
boiling  lard. 

Lentils,  Boiled. — Soak  a cupful 
overnight;  drain  them;  boil  in  a 
quart  of  water  half  an  hour,  or  till 
tender.  Then  drain  again.  Melt  I 
oz.  of  butter  in  another  stewpan,  and 
fry  in  it  a small  onion,  very  finely 
chopped.  Stir  in  a teaspoonful  of 
flour,  and  mix  to  a smooth  paste. 
Add  boiling  stock,  flavored  with  vin- 
egar to  make  a thick  sauce ; put 
in  the  boiled  lentils,  and  simmer  for 
ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  Serve  in  a 
tureen.  If  preferred,  the  vinegar  can 
be  omitted. 

Lentils,  Savory. — One  pint  of  len- 
tils, one  full  teaspoonful  of  minced 
onion,  half  - teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Soak  the 
lentils  a couple  of  hours.  Put  them 
on  the  stove  in  a quart  of  cold  water, 
with  the  onion,  parslej7,  and  season- 
ing ; bring  to  a gentle  boil,  and  simmer 
two  hours,  or  until  the  lentils  are 
tender.  Drain  off  the  water,  turn  the 
lentils  into  a saucepan,  and  stir  in 
the  butter.  Let  it  stand  on  the  side 
of  the  stove  about  ten  minutes,  and 
send  to  table  smoking  hot.  White 
beans  are  good  cooked  in  the  same 
way. 

Lettuce,  Boiled. — Wash  four  or  five 
lettuces  thoroughly ; cut  away  the 
thick,  bitter  stalks,  but  retain  all  the 
sound  leaves,  whether  green  or  white. 
Boil  them  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  in 
plenty  of  salted  water,  then  throw 
them  for  a minute  into  cold  water, 
strain,  and  chop  them  lightly.  Put 
them  into  a stewpan  with  a pint  of 
good  white  sauce.  Season  them 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  a quarter  of  a 


417 


27 


Lettuce  a la  Crfeme  VEGETABLES 


Mushrooms 


nutmeg  grated,  and  simmer  gently 
until  quite  hot.  Draw  the  saucepan 
to  the  side  for  a minute,  and  stir 
among  the  lettuces  the  well  - beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs. 

Lettuce  a la  Creme. — Take  the 
hearts  of  cabbage  lettuce,  wash  them, 
and  bleach  them  for  a quarter  of  an 
hour  in  boiling  salted  water.  Next 
take  the  lettuces  out  of  the  boiling 
water,  put  them  in  a sieve,  throw  cold 
water  over  them,  and  let  them  drain 
thoroughly.  Then,  in  a dish  which 
will  stand  heat,  put  some  cream,  some 
small  lumps  of  butter,  and  finally 
the  lettuce  hearts ; pour  on  more 
cream,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  cover  with  a thin  layer  of  cracker 
crumbs.  Cook  for  an  hour  and  a 
quarter  in  a moderate  oven,  where 
the  whole  will  simmer  gently.  Serve 
in  the  dish  in  which  it  has  been 
cooked. 

Lettuce  Salad.  See  Salads. 

Lettuce,  Stuffed. — Wash  four  or  five 
large  lettuces.  Boil  them  in  plenty 
of  salted  water  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Throw  them  at  once  into  cold  water, 
and  afterwards  let  them  drain.  Open 
them,  fill  them  with  good  veal  force- 
meat, tie  the  ends  securely,  and  put 
them  into  a stewpan  with  as  much 
good  gravy  as  will  cover  them,  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  and  a teaspoonful  of  vine- 
gar. Simmer  gently  for  another  fif- 
teen minutes,  remove  the  strings,  place 
them  on  a hot  dish. 

Mushrooms  a la  Bordelais. — Pro- 
ceed in  all  respects  as  for  grilled 
mushrooms,  but  serve  with  a sauce 
of  oil  or  melted  butter,  in  which  are 
minced  young  onions,  parsley,  and 
a little  garlic ; or  serve  with  a sauce 
made  by  boiling  the  trimmings  of 
the  mushrooms  in  good  brown  gravy, 
seasoned  with  cayenne  pepper  and 
salt,  and  thickened  with  the  yolks  of 
eggs.  Time  to  broil,  about  twelve 
minutes;  to  bake,  fifteen  to  twenty 
minutes. 


Mushrooms  a la  Casse-tout. — This 

mode  of  cooking  mushrooms  is  bor- 
rowed from  the  French,  as  its  name 
implies.  Their  hearth-fires  are  par- 
ticularly adapted  for  it.  Place  a 
baking -tin  on  the  hot  hearth,  on 
which  lay  toast,  well  buttered;  cover 
with  mushrooms,  carefully  cleaned, 
keeping  the  cup  side  uppermost,  and 
placing  upon  each  mushroom  a bit  of 
butter  and  a seasoning  of  pepper  and 
salt.  Medium-sized,  flat  mushrooms 
do  best  for  this  dish ; they  should  be 
freshly  gathered.  A glass  is  some- 
times fixed  closely  over  the  mush- 
rooms, but  for  cooking  mushrooms 
in  any  quantity  an  earthenware  cov- 
er with  a flat  top,  to  allow  of  the 
wood-embers  being  placed  around 
and  on  it,  is  used.  Serve  on  a hot 
dish.  Time,  ten  to  twelve  minutes. 

Mushrooms  a la  Creole.  — Put 

half  a pint  of  olive  oil  in  a flat  baking- 
dish,  sprinkle  dry  bread-crumbs  and 
finely  chopped  parsley  in  it,  lay  over 
some  large  mushrooms  which  have 
been  peeled  and  stemmed,  pour  more 
oil  over,  and  sprinkle  with  bread- 
crumbs and  seasoning.  Bake  in  a 
hot  oven  half  an  hour. 

Mushrooms,  Creamed. — Peel  large, 
fresh  mushrooms.  Sprinkle  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Put  in  a saucepan  with 
a little  water.  To  a quart  of  mush- 
rooms add  a table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Let  simmer  ten  minutes.  Pour  in  a 
pint  of  cream,  in  which  should  be 
mixed  a table-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 
Stir  two  or  three  minutes,  and  take  up. 

Mushrooms,  Devilled. — Chop  one 
quart  of  peeled  mushrooms.  Season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon -juice. 
Mix  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs 
and  two  raw  eggs  together,  and  stir 
in  with  one  pint  of  bread-crumbs  and 
one  large  table-spoonful  of  butter.  Fill 
little  shells  with  the  mixture,  cover 
with  grated  crackers  and  bits  of  but- 
ter. Set  in  the  oven  to  brown. 

Mushrooms,  Fricassee  of. — Peel  a 
quart  of  mushrooms.  Put  in  boiling 


Mushrooms  for  Garnish  VEGETABLES  Mushroom  Toast 


water,  then  in  cold  water.  Take  out 
and  wipe  dry.  Melt  a table-spoonful 
of  butter  in  a saucepan  and  lay  in  the 
mushrooms.  Keep  over  the  fire  and 
stir.  Add  flour  to  thicken,  with  pep- 
per, salt,  thyme,  and  mace.  Pour  in 
a teacupful  of  soup  stock  and  let  sim- 
mer half  an  hour.  Take  out  the  mush- 
rooms ; strain  the  gravy,  to  which  add 
the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  the 
juice  of  a lemon.  Arrange  the  mush- 
rooms on  thin  slices  of  buttered  toast 
and  pour  the  sauce  over.  Serve  hot. 

Mushrooms  for  Garnish.  — Take 
fresh  - gathered  button  - mushrooms, 
cut  off  the  stems,  and  wash  them  in 
a little  cold  water,  then  drain.  Have 
ready  squeezed  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  put  it  with  a small  cup  of  cold 
water  into  an  enamelled  stewpan, 
into  which  throw  each  mushroom  as 
it  is  peeled ; /add  I oz.  of  butter  and  a 
little  salt.  Place  the  stewpan  over 
the  fire,  bring  it  quickly  to  a boil, 
and  in  five  minutes  use  the  mush- 
rooms as  required.  A good  cook 
will  know  how  to  utilize  the  stems 
and  peel  of  the  mushrooms.  In  this 
case  they  may  be  chopped  small  and 
stewed  in  the  gravy  left  after  boiling 
the  buttons.  These  trimmings  are 
useful  for  flavoring  dishes  or  soups. 

Mushrooms,  Grilled.  — Cut  the 

stalks,  peel,  and  score  lightly  the 
under  side  of  large  mushroom  flaps, 
which  should  be  firm,  and  fresh  gath- 
ered. Season  them  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  steep  them  in  a marinade 
of  oil  or  melted  butter.  If  quite  sound 
they  may  be  laid  on  a gridiron  over 
a slow,  even  fire,  and  grilled  on  both 
sides,  but  they  are  best  done  in  the 
oven  if  at  all  bruised.  Either  way, 
serve  with  a sauce  of  melted  butter, 
or  on  a hot  dish,  with  a piece  of  butter 
on  each  mushroom,  and  a squeeze 
of  lemon- juice.  Time,  about  twelve 
minutes  to  grill ; forty  minutes  to 
steep  in  marinade. 

Mushroom  Omelet.— Make  a plain 
omelet.  When  ready  to  turn,  drop 
some  freshly  prepared  mushrooms  in 


the  centre,  fold  over,  and  take  up. 
Pour  stewed  mushrooms  around  the 
omelet,  and  serve. 

Mushrooms  en  Ragout. — Put  half 
a pint  of  soup  stock  in  a saucepan 
with  l/z  lb.  of  butter  and  a little  chop- 
ped parsley.  Set  on  the  stove ; when 
hot,  lay  in  a quart  of  peeled  and 
stemmed  mushrooms ; take  from  the 
fire  and  set  aside  for  an  hour,  then 
put  back  on  the  stove.  Sprinkle  in  a 
table-spoonful  of  browned  flour,  and 
stir  until  smooth.  Add  a cupful  of  boil- 
ing water,  a wineglassful  of  Madeira 
wine,  and  the  juice  of  a lemon.  Sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  with 
roast  veal  or  a fillet  of  beef. 

Mushrooms,  Scalloped. — Cover  the 
bottom  of  a buttered  dish  with  stale 
bread-crumbs  ; sprinkle  over  with  pep- 
per and  salt  and  bits  of  butter.  Place 
a layer  of  mushrooms  alternately  with 
the  bread  until  the  dish  is  full.  Sprin- 
kle bread  and  bits  of  butter  on  the  top, 
pour  over  a pint  of  cream,  cover,  and 
set  in  the  oven  for  one  hour.  Remove 
the  cover,  let  brown,  and  serve  imme- 
diately. 

Mushroom  Stew. — Trim  and  wipe 
a quart  of  large,  fresh  mushrooms. 
Put  3 ozs.  of  butter  into  a saucepan 
and  set  over  the  fire  until  melted. 
Throw  the  mushrooms  in  with  a 
pounded  blade  of  mace,  a little  salt 
and  pepper.  Let  stew  until  the 
mushrooms  are  tender.  Add  half  a 
teacupful  of  butter,  in  which  rub  a 
table-spoonful  of  cracker  meal.  Stir 
until  the  mixture  comes  to  a boil. 

Mushroom  Toast. — Stew  over  a 
gentle  fire  a quart  of  nicely  prepared 
mushrooms  (just  opened  ones),  first 
dissolving  3 ozs.  of  butter  in  the 
stewpan,  and  seasoning  the  mush- 
rooms with  white  pepper  or  caj^enne, 
a salt-spoonful  of  mace,  powdered ; 
stir  them  carefully,  and  toss  them 
in  the  pan  to  prevent  burning,  and 
until  the  butter  is  dried  and  slightly 
brown,  when  add  half  a pint  of  thin 
cream,  the  grated  rind  of  half  a lemon. 


419 


Okra,  Boiled 


VEGETABLES 


Onions,  Baked 


and  a little  salt,  and  stew  until  the 
mushrooms  are  tender.  Beef  gravy 
may  be  substituted  for  the  cream, 
and  the  grated  lemon-peel  omitted. 
Serve  on  buttered  bread,  fried  or 
grilled,  which  should  be  thick  enough 
to  allow  of  the  inside  being  scooped 
out.  Serve  hot,  and  squeeze  the 
juice  of  a lemon  over.  Time,  fifteen 
minutes  to  stew  in  butter;  five  min- 
utes in  gravy. 

Okra,  Boiled. — Take  young  tender 
pods  of  okra,  and  boil  in  salt  water 
for  twenty  minutes.  Drain,  pour  over 
a teacupful  of  cream,  add  a table- 
spoonful of  butter,  season  with  pepper, 
and  let  simmer  five  minutes.  Serve 
hot. 

Okra,  Fried. — Slice  tender  pods 
of  okra.  Have  a frying-pan  on  the 
fire  with  hot  po-rk  drippings,  put  the 
okra  in,  and  fry  brown  on  both  sides. 
Sliced  onions  may  be  added.  Sprin- 
kle with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve 
hot. 

Okra  and  Rice.  — Slice  a quart  of 
okra.  Cut  % lb.  of  lean  ham  into 
small  pieces.  Peel  and  cut  up  two 
large  tomatoes.  Put  all  together  in 
a saucepan  with  a pint  of  stock,  a 
pod  of  red  pepper,  and  a slice  of  onion ; 
let  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour. 
Wash  a cupful  of  rice  and  put  in;  let 
cook  until  done ; add  a table-spoonful 
of  gumbo  filet ; let  boil  up,  and  serve. 

Okra,  Scalloped. — Slice  well-grown 
pods  of  okra  in  thick  slices.  Put  a 
layer  in  the  bottom  of  a baking-pan, 
spread  with  grated  crackers,  bits  of 
butter,  salt,  and  pepper ; put  over 
another  layer  of  okra  and  season ; 
continue  until  the  dish  is  full ; spread 
the  top  with  bits  of  butter,  pour  over 
a teacupful  of  cream,  and  set  in  the 
oven  half  an  hour. 

Okra  with  Tomatoes.  — Wash 
pods  of  okra  and  cut  in  thin  slices 
sufficient  to  fill  a quart  measure. 
Peel  tomatoes  to  fill  a pint  cup  when 
sliced.  Put  together  in  a saucepan. 


add  a little  salt,  cover,  and  let  simmer 
gently  for  half  an  hour ; add  a table- 
spoonful of  butter  with  pepper,  and 
serve. 

Onion. — This  well-known  vegetable 
may  be  regarded  either  as  a condi- 
ment or  as  an  article  of  real  nourish- 
ment. By  boiling,  it  is  deprived  of 
much  of  its  pungent,  volatile  oil,  and 
becomes  agreeable,  mild,  and  nutri- 
tious. It  is  not  so  wholesome  either 
fried  or  roasted.  There  is  no  vege- 
table about  which  there  is  so  much 
diversity  of  opinion  as  there  is  about 
the  onion,  some  persons  liking  a 
little  of  it  in  every  dish,  and  others 
objecting  to  it  entirely.  Generally 
speaking,  however,  a slight  flavoring 
of  onion  is  an  improvement  to  the 
majority  of  made  dishes,  but  it  should 
not  be  too  strong.  When  onions  are 
used  for  stuffing,  the  unpleasant  prop- 
erties belonging  to  them  would  be 
considerably  lessened  if  a lemon, 
freed  from  the  outer  rind  but  covered 
as  thickly  as  possible  with  the  white 
skin,  were  put  in  the  midst  of  them, 
and  thrown  away  when  the  dish  is 
ready  for  the  table.  Onions  may  be 
rendered  much  milder  if  two  or  three 
waters  are*  used  in  boiling  them. 
Spanish  onions  are  generally  con- 
sidered superior  in  flavor.  The  larg- 
est are  the  best.  When  young,  the 
onion  is  eaten  raw,  and  it  is  also 
pickled  and  made  into  a sauce  by 
boiling. 

A celebrated  medical  authority 
says  : 

Onions  make  a nerve  tonic  not 
to  be  despised.  No  other  vegetable 
will  so  quickly  relieve  and  tone  up  a 
worn-out  system,  and  they  should  be 
eaten  freely,  particularly  by  brain- 
workers and  those  suffering  from 
blood  or  nervous  diseases."  He 
further  says:  "Nothing  will  clear 
and  beautify  a poor  complexion 
sooner  than  the  eating  of  onions  in 
some  form." 

Onions,  Baked. — Peel  three  or  four 
medium  - sized  Spanish  onions  and 
boil  them  in  salted  water  for  a quarter 


420 


Onions  and  Cheese  VEGETABLES 


Onions,  Stuffed 


of  an  hour,  then  throw  them  into  cold 
water  for  half  an  hour.  Drain  them 
well,  cut  them  into  slices  half  an  inch 
in  thickness,  place  them  in  a single 
layer  in  a well-buttered  tin,  and  bake 
them  in  a quick  oven,  basting  them 
occasionally  with  butter  until  they 
are  tender  and  lightly  browned. 
Serve  on  a hot  dish. 

Onions  and  Cheese. — Peel  two  large 
Spanish  onions,  partly  boil  them, 
and  leave  them  on  a sieve  to  drain 
until  nearly  cold.  Then  cut  the  on- 
ions an  inch  and  a half  across  the 
top  and  scoop  out  the  centre.  Have 
ready  a stuffing  made  with  I oz.  of 
finely  grated  Parmesan  or  other 
cheese,  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled 
eggs  minced  very  finely,  I oz.  of  but- 
ter, 3 ozs.  of  bread-crumbs,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  half  that  quan- 
tity of  pepper.  Mix  all  well  together 
with  a spoonful  or  two  of  milk.  Fill 
up  the  onions  with  the  force-meat, 
brush  them  over  with  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs, and  bake  them  until  nicely 
browned.  Serve  on  a hot  dish,  with 
brown  gravy  poured  over  them. 
Time,  half  an  hour  to  boil  the  onions ; 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  bake. 

Onions  a la  Creme.  — Peel  four 
medium -sized  Spanish  onions,  and 
boil  them  in  water  slightly  salted 
until  they  are  sufficiently  cooked. 
Drain  them  on  a sieve,  and  put  them 
into  a stewpan  with  3 ozs.  of  butter 
rubbed  smoothly  with  a table-spoon- 
ful of  flour,  and  a little  salt  and  white 
pepper.  Shake  the  pan  constantly, 
and  stir  in  by  degrees  half  a pint  of 
cream  or  new  milk.  Serve  the  onions 
on  toasted  bread,  with  the  sauce 
poured  over.  Sufficient  for  four  or 
five  persons.  One  hour  to  boil  the 
onions,  quarter  of  an  hour  to  stew 
them. 

Onions,  Fried.  — Peel  and  slice 
them ; cook  fifteen  minutes  in  boiling 
water ; then  turn  them  on  a clean 
cloth  to  drain.  Put  a few  of  the 
onions  in  a frying-basket  and  dip 
them  in  smoking  hot  fat,  and  brown. 


Drain  on  brown  paper  and  dust  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Serve  with  liver 
and  bacon. 

Onions,  Sliced  and  Fried.  — Onions 
cut  into  thin  slices,  fried  in  a little  hot 
butter  until  they  are  browned  without 
being  burned,  then  mixed  with  flour, 
and  afterwards  pressed  through  a fine 
sieve,  are  excellent  for  flavoring  and 
coloring  brown  soups  and  sauces. 

Onions,  Stewed.  — Peel  and  trim 
half  a dozen  Spanish  onions  of  medi- 
um size,  but  be  careful  not  to  cut  the 
tops  too  short,  cr  the  bulb  will  fall  to 
pieces  while  stewing.  Blanch  them 
in  boiling  water  for  a minute  or  two, 
then  drain  them,  and  put  them  side 
by  side  in  a saucepan  sufficiently 
large  to  hold  them  all  in  one  layer. 
Sprinkle  a little  salt  and  pepper  over 
them,  and  place  upon  each  onion  Yz 
oz.  of  butter,  mixed  smoothly  with 
half  a teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar. 
Place  them  over  a gentle  fire,  and 
let  them  remain  until  lightly  browned, 
then  cover  with  good  brown  gravy, 
and  simmer  them  until  tender.  Serve 
as  hot  as  possible  on  toast,  with  the 
gravy  poured  round  them.  If  liked, 
the  gravy  may  be  flavored  with  to- 
mato-sauce, or  with  a finely  minced 
gherkin  and  a glass  of  claret.  Time 
to  stew  the  onions,  about  an  hour  and 
a half. 

Onions,  Stuffed.  — The  Spanish  cr 
large-sized  onions  are  best.  Peel  the 
onions,  and  from  the  stalk  end  take 
out  the  centre  of  the  onion.  Cook 
ten  minutes  in  salted  water.  Then 
lay  the  onions,  opening  down,  upon 
a clean  cloth  to  absorb  the  water. 
Make  a stuffing  of  two  parts  of 
chopped  chicken  or  ham  to  one  of 
bread-crumbs.  Chop  fine  the  onion 
hearts  that  have  been  removed  and 
add  to  them  the  other  stuffing,  also 
one  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Moisten 
with  a little  chicken  stock.  Fill  the 
onions  with  this  mixture  and  place 
them  in  a baking-pan  containing  an 
inch  depth  of  water.  Sprinkle  the 


421 


Parsley,  Fried 


VEGETABLES 


Peppers,  Baked 


onions  with  crumbs,  cover  the  pan, 
and  bake  in  a hot  oven  an  hour,  or 
until  the  onions  are  tender.  Remove 
the  cover  long  enough  to  brown  the 
onions  lightly  before  they  are  taken 
from  the  oven. 

Another  way  : — Prepare  three  or 
four  large  Spanish  onions  as  in  the 
last  recipe.  Scoop  out  the  centres, 
making  a hole  fully  an  inch  and  a 
half  across.  Put  in  each  one  a mut- 
ton kidney,  and  place  the  onions  side 
by  side  in  a saucepan.  Sprinkle  a lit- 
tle salt  and  ca\7enne  over  them,  and 
pour  upon  them  half  a pint  of  good 
brown  gravy.  Place  the  pan  over  a 
gentle  fire,  and  let  it  remain  until  the 
onions  are  quite  tender.  Serve  as 
hot  as  possible.  Time  to  simmer 
the  onions,  two  and  a half  to  three 
hours. 

Parsley,  Fried. — Wash  and  dry 
well  a few  branches  of  fresh  parsley 
with  long  stems ; put  them  in  the 
frying-basket  and  plunge  the  basket 
in  plenty  of  ver}7  hot  fat  so  as  to  cover 
the  parsley.  Fry  one  minute  only. 
Lift  up  the  basket,  remove  the  parsley 
with  the  skimmer,  sprinkle  a few 
grains  of  salt  over  it;  serve  on  the 
platter  around  the  fish.  The  taste  of 
fried  parsley  with  fried  fish  is  greatly 
appreciated. 

Parsnips.  — Wash,  scrape,  slice 
lengthwise  into  several  pieces,  and 
put  on  in  a kettle  of  boiling  water. 
Boil  about  an  hour.  Serve  with  a 
little  sugar  and  melted  butter  poured 
over  them ; or  they  may  be  baked 
same  as  sweet  potatoes.  Mash  them 
up  fine,  when  boiled  tender,  and 
form  into  little  cakes  with  a batter 
made  of  a table-spoonful  of  flour,  an 
egg,  a small  piece  of  butter,  and  a gill 
of  milk. 

Parsnips,  Broiled.  — Wash  and 
scrape  the  largest,  finest  ones ; boil 
them  until  tender  in  water  into  which 
a little  salt  has  been  put;  let  them 
get  cold.  Slice  and  broil  them  on  a 
gridiron  on  which  butter  has  been 
rubbed  to  prevent  their  sticking. 


Pease,  Boiled.  — They  should  be 
fresh  when  cooked,  and  boiled  in 
just  enough  water  to  cover  them, 
which  should  be  salted  and  boiling 
when  the  pease  are  put  in.  Do  not 
cover  the  vessel  while  they  are  cook- 
ing, which  ought  not  to  be  longer 
than  twenty  minutes,  unless  they 
are  old.  Drain  off  all  the  water ; add 
a little  cream  and  a small  piece  of 
butter. 

Another  way  : — Take  them  when 
quite  young,  the  pods  being  firm  but 
not  hard,  and  keep  them  in  a cool 
place.  Do  not  shell  them  until  just 
before  they  are  to  be  cooked.  Put 
into  boiling  water,  slightly  salted; 
boil  fast  for  twenty  or  thirty  minutes, 
according  to  their  age ; drain  all  the 
water  from  them;  put  in  a dessert- 
spoonful of  butter,  a little  pepper  and 
salt,  and  send  to  table  hot. 

Pease,  Green,  a la  Francaise.  — 

Take  a quart  of  young  and  tender 
pease,  freshly  shelled;  put  them  in 
a two-quart  saucepan  with  % lb.  of 
the  best  butter,  a wineglassful  of 
water,  2 ozs.  of  small  white  onions, 
I oz.  of  powdered  sugar,  and  a little 
salt.  Cover  the  saucepan  well,  and 
stew  over  a moderate  fire  for  half  an 
hour.  When  they  are  cooked,  taste, 
and  add  more  sugar  if  needful,  and 
about  Y\  lb.  more  butter  mixed  with 
half  flour.  Work  the  pease  round  in 
the  saucepan  over  the  fire,  so  that 
the  flour  and  butter  may  get  thorough- 
ly distributed,  and  then  serve. 

Peppers,  Baked. — Select  six  sweet 
bell-peppers  (green) ; cut  the  stem 
ends  almost  around,  leaving  a hinge  ; 
take  out  the  seeds.  Chop  fine  three 
medium -sized  ripe  tomatoes,  also  a 
small  quantity  of  cold  fresh  meat — 
either  beef  or  mutton ; add  a few 
bread-crumbs ; have  a hot  skillet  in 
which  has  been  heated  a teaspoonful 
of  lard  or  olive  oil ; turn  in  the  mixt- 
ure, and  stir  until  it  is  hot  through. 
Add  a teaspoonful  of  butter,  pinch  of 
cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and  some  of 
the  green-pepper  seeds  ; fill  the  pep- 
pers with  this,  place  in  a pan  just 


422 


Potato  Balls 


Peppers  and  Chicken  VEGETABLES 


large  enough  to  hold  them  upright, 
pour  a cup  of  water  into  the  pan, 
close  down  the  tops,  and  bake  about 
twenty  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

Peppers  and  Chicken  au  Gratin. — 

Cut  the  peppers  in  half,  lengthwise. 
Remove  the  seeds  and  soak  the  pep- 
pers. Mince  fine  the  dark  meat  of 
chicken,  and  add  to  it  one-fourth  as 
much  boiled  rice.  Moisten  all  with 
a highly  seasoned  brown  gravy  or 
stock.  Dry  the  peppers  and  fill  them 
with  the  chicken  mixture.  Sprinkle 
fine  crumbs  over  the  top  of  each,  and 
dot  with  bits  of  butter.  Bake,  covered, 
thirty  minutes  in  a dripping-pan ; un- 
cover and  brown. 

Or,  if  you  wish,  you  can  use  veal 
instead  of  chicken,  and  substitute  a 
tomato  sauce  for  the  gravy.  A vari- 
ation upon  this  dish  is  prepared  by 
arranging  the  tomatoes  in  a shallow 
bake-dish  in  which  they  can  be  served, 
and  filling  the  spaces  between  them 
with  the  gravy  or  sauce.  In  that 
case,  as  in  the  other,  the  crumbs  and 
butter  are  put  only  on  the  peppers, 
and  they  are  cooked  in  the  same 
way. 

Peppers,  Fried. — In  all  dishes  of 
peppers  select  those  that  have  not 
begun  to  change  color.  Extract  the 
seeds  carefully,  and  avoid  touching 
them  with  the  fingers,  if  possible. 
A person  of  tender  skin  is  apt  to 
suffer  from  too  close  contact  with 
those  fiery  vegetables. 

Peppers,  Fried,  and  Rice. — Boil  rice 
in  the  Southern  fashion  and  turn  it 
into  a vegetable-dish.  Prepare  your 
green  peppers  as  directed  above,  but 
fry  them  in  butter.  Arrange  the 
rings  of  pepper  on  top  of  the  rice,  and 
pour  over  them  the  butter  in  which 
they  were  cooked.  Set  in  the  oven 
for  three  minutes,  covered,  and  then 
serve. 

Peppers  with  Minced  Meat. — Make 
a well  - seasoned  mince  of  any  cold 
meat  you  have  in  the  house.  Cut  the 
tops  off  green  peppers  if  they  are 


small.  If  large,  cut  them  in  half. 
Extract  the  seeds  and  fill  the  pep- 
pers with  the  mince,  moistening  it 
well  with  gravy.  Pack  the  peppers 
closely  together  in  a baking -dish. 
If  you  have  more  meat  than  they 
will  hold,  fill  with  it  the  chinks  be- 
tween them,  and  pour  in  more  gravy. 
Cover  closely,  and  bake  twenty 
minutes  to  half  an  hour.  Send  to 
table  in  the  baking-dish. 

Peppers  with  Rice  and  Tomato. — 

Prepare  peppers  as  for  stuffing  with 
rice,  but  before  filling  them  with  this 
pour  over  it  a cupful  of  good  tomato 
sauce.  Stir  this  with  the  rice  until 
they  are  well  blended,  fill  the  peppers 
with  the  mixture,  put  them  in  a vege- 
table-dish, and  let  them  stand  cov- 
ered in  t*he  oven  until  they  are  hot 
through. 

Peppers  Stuffed  with  Force-meat. 

— Cut  green  peppers  in  two,  length- 
wise. Lay  them  in  cold  water  for 
fifteen  minutes.  Dry  them,  and  fill 
each  half  with  a force-meat  made  of 
a cupful  of  fine  bread-crumbs,  half  a 
cup  of  minced  boiled  ham  or  tongue, 
season  with  a suspicion  of  onion- 
juice,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  moisten 
with  melted  butter.  Lay  the  stuffed 
peppers  in  a dripping-pan,  pour  a 
cupful  of  plain  gravy  or  soup  stock 
around  them,  cover,  and  bake  fif- 
teen minutes.  Uncover  and  brown. 
Serve  either  as  an  entree,  a luncheon, 
or  breakfast  dish,  or  in  place  of  a 
vegetable.  Chopped  cooked  sausage 
is  good  to  use  in  place  of  the  ham  or 
any  cold  meat.  With  the  latter  the 
seasoning  must  be  more  generous 
than  with  the  sausage. 

Potato  Balls  ( Kartoffelklosse ).  — 
Take  one  quart  of  potatoes,  peel  and 
grate  them,  then  drain  them  through 
a coarse  towel  so  they  are  free  from 
any  water.  Next  take  four  boiled 
potatoes  the  size  of  an  egg  and  grate 
them  to  the  raw  ones,  mix  with  salt 
and  a little  nutmeg.  While  making 
the  balls  dip  the  hand  in  cold  water, 
and  in  the  centre  of  each  ball  put  a 


42.3 


Potato  Bread 


VEGETABLES 


Potatoes,  Boiled 


couple  of  small  pieces  of  bread  which 
has  been  fried  brown  in  butter.  Then 
put  them  in  boiling  salted  water  and 
let  them  boil  for  about  ten  or  fif- 
teen minutes.  They  must  be  boiled 
as  soon  as  made,  because  they  turn 
black  if  allowed  to  stand.  Beef  a la 
mode  with  potato  balls  is  a regular 
German  dinner. 

Potato  Bread. — In  making  bread, 
a portion  of  mashed  potato  is  some- 
times added  to  the  flour,  and  this  ad- 
dition improves  the  bread  very  much 
for  many  tastes ; it  also  keeps  it  from 
getting  dry  quite  so  soon.  At  the 
same  time  it  is  not  so  nutritious 
as  ordinary  home-made  bread.  Boil 
the  required  quantity  of  potatoes  in 
their  skins,  drain  and  dry  them,  then 
peel  and  weigh  them.  Pound  them 
with  the  rolling-pin  until  they  are 
quite  free  from  lumps,  and  mix  with 
them  the  flour,  in  the  proportion  of 
7 lbs.  of  flour  to  2/4  lbs.  of  potatoes. 
Add  the  yeast,  and  knead  in  the  or- 
dinary way,  but  make  up  the  bread 
with  milk  instead  of  water.  When 
the  dough  is  well  risen,  bake  the  bread 
in  a gentle  oven.  Bake  it  a little 
longer  than  for  ordinary  bread,  and 
when  it  seems  done  enough  let  it 
stand  a little  while,  with  the  oven 
door  open,  before  taking  it  out.  Un- 
less these  precautions  are  taken  the 
crust  will  be  hard  and  brittle,  while 
the  inside  is  still  moist  and  doughy. 

Potato  Cakes. — Wash  and  dry  eigh- 
teen large  potatoes,  bake  them  for 
one  hour,  remove  the  skin,  press 
them  through  a fine  strainer.  Mix 
six  yolks  of  raw  eggs  with  half  a 
pint  of  good  rich  cream;  add  to  the 
potatoes  with  l/\  lb.  of  very  fresh 
butter.  Season  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  one  salt -spoonful  of  white 
pepper,  one  level  teaspoonful  of  pow- 
dered sugar ; mix  well  with  a wooden 
spoon ; add,  a little  at  a time,  lb. 
of  Parmesan  cheese,  freshly  grated. 
Finish  by  adding  the  white  of  an 
egg,  beaten  stiff.  Butter  some  small 
tin  moulds  of  fancy  shape,  one  for 
each  person,  and  fill  them  two-thirds 


full.  Bake  in  warm  oven  eighteen 
minutes,  and  detach  them  with  care 
from  the  mould.  Serve  them  around 
the  fish,  putting  little  sprigs  of  pars- 
ley between  and  small  slices  of  lem- 
on ; serve  at  once. 

Potato  Croquettes.  — Bake  half  a 
dozen  large  potatoes.  When  done 
enough,  burst  them  open  and  scoop 
out  the  contents  with  a spoon.  Beat 
the  pulp  until  it  is  quite  smooth, 
then  put  it  into  a clean  saucepan 
with  the  yolks  of  one  or  two  eggs,  a 
piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a walnut, 
and  a little  pepper,  salt,  and  grated 
nutmeg.  A little  cream  is  an  addi- 
tion. Beat  this  mixture  over  a mod- 
erate fire,  until  it  leaves  the  sides  of 
the  saucepan  with  the  spoon ; then 
spread  it  out  on  a dish  and  let  it  cool. 
Shape  it  into  balls ; dip  these  in  beaten 
egg,  then  into  bread-crumbs,  and  fry 
them  in  hot  fat  until  they  are  equally 
and  lightly  browned.  Let  them  drain 
before  the  fire,  dish  em  on  a hot 
napkin,  and  serve  immediately.  Cold 
potatoes  left  over  can  be  cooked  in 
the  same  way. 

Potatoes,  Boiled. — When  about  to 
boil  potatoes,  pick  them  out  as  nearly 
as  possible  of  one  size,  or  the  large 
ones  will  be  hard  when  the  small 
ones  are  reduced  to  pulp.  If  this 
cannot  easily  be  done,  cut  them  to  one 
size.  Wash  them  well,  remove  the 
specks,  or  eyes,  and  pare  them  as 
thinly  as  possible,  not  only  to  avoid 
waste,  but  because  the  best  part  of  the 
potato  is  near  the  skin.  As  they  are 
pared,  throw  them  into  cold  water, 
and  let  them  remain  in  it  until  wanted. 
An  iron  saucepan  is  preferable  to  a 
tin  one  for  cooking  them,  as  it  prevents 
them  boiling  so  fast,  and  the  more 
slowly  they  are  boiled  the  better. 
Put  them  into  a saucepan  with  barely 
enough  cold  water  to  cover  them,  and 
as  soon  as  the  water  boils  throw  in  a 
little  more  cold  water.  This  will 
check  the  heat,  and  keep  the  potatoes 
from  breaking  before  they  are  done 
through.  Thrust  a fork  into  them 
occasionally,  and  as  soon  as  they 


424 


Potatoes  Boiled 


VEGETABLES 


Potatoes,  Fried 


are  soft  take  them  up,  pour  off  the 
liquor,  and  let  them  stand  by  the  side 
of  the  fire  with  the  saucepan  partially 
uncovered  till  the  moisture  has 
evaporated  and  they  are  quite  dry. 
If  they  are  allowed  to  remain  in  the 
water  after  they  are  done  enough, 
they  will  certainly  be  spoiled.  Serve 
very  hot.  When  potatoes  are  done  be- 
fore they  are  wanted  they  should  be 
drained  and  left  in  the  saucepan  by 
the  side  of  the  fire,  and,  instead  of  the 
lid,  a folded  cloth  should  be  laid  over 
them.  This  will  absorb  the  moisture 
and  keep  them  hot  and  in  good  con- 
dition for  some  time.  In  order  to  make 
boiled  potatoes  look  floury,  boil  and 
drain  them  as  above,  and  while  they 
are  drying  by  the  side  of  the  fire  shake 
the  saucepan  vigorously  every  minute 
or  two.  This  will  give  them  a very 
good  appearance,  but  it  is  rather 
wasteful,  as  a good  portion  of  the 
potato  sticks  to  the  side  of  the  pan. 
Time,  according  to  the  quality  of  the 
potato,  from  half  an  hour  to  an  hour 
and  a half. 

Potatoes  Boiled  in  their  Jackets. 

— Potatoes  are  frequently  boiled  and 
baked  in  their  jackets,  and  a small 
plate  is  placed  by  the  side  of  each 
guest  to  receive  the  skins.  They  are 
certainly  nicer  prepared  in  this  way 
than  in  any  other,  and  also  better, 
for  the  most  nutritious  portion  of  the 
potato  is  said  to  lie  quite  close  to  the 
skin,  and  it  is  frequently  cut  off 
when  the  potato  is  carelessly  peeled; 
at  the  same  time,  this  method  is  an 
inconvenient  and  not  very  tidy  way 
of  serving  them.  Choose  potatoes 
of  uniform  size,  and  scrub  them  with 
a soft  brush  until  they  are  perfectly 
clean.  Put  them  into  a saucepan 
with  a little  cold  water,  not  quite 
sufficient  to  cover  them.  Boil  them 
as  gently  as  possible,  for  the  more 
slowly  they  are  cooked  the  better  the3^ 
will  be.  If  a little  salt  is  thrown  in 
occasionally  it  will  be  found  a great 
improvement.  If  the  potatoes  are 
large,  add  half  a cupful  of  cold  water 
every  now  and  then.  In  order  to 
ascertain  whether  or  not  they  are 


done  enough,  probe  them  occasionally 
with  a fork,  and  when  they  are  ten- 
der throughout  pour  off  the  water,  put 
the  saucepan  once  more  on  the  fire, 
and  let  it  remain  until  the  potatoes  are 
quite  dry.  Send  them  to  table  with 
the  skins  on.  Time  to  boil  the  pota- 
toes, from  half  an  hour  to  an  hour, 
according  to  size  and  quality. 

Potatoes,  Broiled. — Parboil  large 
potatoes,  peel,  and  cut  them  into 
thick  slices.  Broil  the  slices  on  a 
gridiron  over  a clear  fire  until  brown 
on  both  sides.  Serve  on  a hot  dish, 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  butter. 

Potatoes,  Browned. — Cut  cold  boil- 
ed potatoes  in  thin  slices ; lay  them 
on  a gridiron;  place  them  over  the 
fire,  or  on  a tin  in  a hot  oven ; if  the 
latter,  put  them  first  on  the  bottom,  so 
that  the  under  side  will  brown  and 
the  moisture  escape ; then  change 
them  to  the  upper  grate  to  brown  the 
upper  side.  Serve  at  once. 

Potatoes  a la  Creme. — Boil  some 
potatoes  of  a firm  kind  in  the  usual 
way.  Take  a small,  sharp,  thin- 
bladed  knife  and  cut  them  into  thin 
slices.  Put  a pint  of  these  into  a 
stewpan  with  a teaspoonful  of  salt, 
I oz.  of  butter,  a little  pepper,  salt, 
and  grated  nutmeg,  and  a table- 
spoonful of  lemon  - juice.  Pour  a 
quarter  of  a pint  of  cream  over  the 
top,  cover  the  saucepan  closely,  and 
shake  it  over  the  fire  for  eight  or  ten 
minutes.  Place  the  potatoes  on  a hot 
dish,  and  be  very  careful  not  to  break 
the  slices.  Cold  potatoes  which  are 
left  from  dinner  may,  if  firm,  be 
dressed  in  this  way  for  breakfast. 
If  cream  is  not  at  hand,  milk  slightly 
thickened  with  flour  and  butter  may 
be  substituted  for  it. 

Potatoes,  Fried. — Pare  raw  pota- 
toes ; cut  them  into  very  thin  slices  the 
short  way  across,  keeping  the  slices  in 
cold  water ; then  lay  them  on  a cloth 
to  drain.  Have  enough  butter  in  a 
dripping-pan  to  more  than  cover  them  ; 
let  it  be  very  hot;  it  takes  a great 


425 


Potatoes  a la  Duchesse  VEGETABLES 


Potatoes,  Moulded 


deal,  as  they  absorb  it.  Fry  brown 
quickly;  turn,  and  brown  the  other 
side;  salt  and  pepper  them.  Send 
to  table  hot.  Sweet  potatoes  are 
managed  the  same  way. 

Potatoes  a la  Duchesse. — This,  it 
has  been  said,  is  “ the  acme  of  delicacy 
in  the  cooking  of  potatoes'’ : “ Prepare 
some  potato  paste  as  for  croquettes 
(see  Potato  Croquettes).  When  this 
is  cold,  mould  it  with  a very  small 
quantity  of  flour  into  oblong  or  round 
cakes.  Fry  these  in  clarified  fat, 
first  on  one  side  then  on  the  other, 
and  take  them  out  the  instant  they 
have  acquired  a delicate  golden- 
brown  color.  With  moderate  care, 
potatoes  thus  cooked  are  delicious." 

Potatoes,  Housekeeper’s.  — One 
quart  of  cold  boiled  potatoes,  cut  into 
dice ; one  pint  of  stock,  one  table- 
spoonful of  chopped  pnrsley,  one  of 
butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
salt,  pepper.  Season  the  potatoes  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  add  the  stock. 
Cover,  and  simmer  twelve  minutes. 
Add  lemon-juice,  butter,  and  parsley, 
and  simmer  two  minutes  longer. 

Potatoes,  Lyonnaise. — Boiled  or 
steamed  potatoes  left  from  the  din- 
ner may  be  prepared  k la  Lyonnaise 
for  the  next  day’s  breakfast.  The 
potatoes  are  peeled  and  sliced ; then 
peel  and  slice  one  or  more  onions, 
which  put  into  a frying-pan  with 
butter ; fry  until  the  onions  are  turn- 
ing yellowish,  when  you  add  the 
slices  of  potatoes.  Keep  tossing  now 
and  then  until  the  potatoes  are  fried 
and  somewhat  yellow.  Salt  to  taste. 

Potatoes  a la  Maitre  d’Hotel. — 

Boil  or  steam  a dozen  potatoes  in  the 
usual  way,  and  cut  them  into  slices  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Put  them 
into  a saucepan  with  two  or  three 
spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  or  gravy, 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  pars- 
ley, 4 ozs.  of  butter,  and  a little  pepper 
and  salt.  Shake  the  saucepan  over 
the  fire  until  the  potatoes  are  covered 
with  the  sauce  and  quite  hot,  then 


squeeze  over  them  the  juice  of  a large, 
fresh  lemon,  and  serve.  Time,  ten 
minutes  to  heat  the  sliced  potatoes. 

Potatoes,  Miroton  of.  — To  eight 
large,  mealy  potatoes  allow  one 
medium -sized  onion,  the  yolks  of 
two  hard-boiled  eggs,  VA  lb.  of  butter, 
two  raw  eggs,  a dessert-spoonful  of 
catsup,  a teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a hand- 
ful of  grated  bread-crumbs.  Boil  the 
potatoes,  peel,  and  mash  them  with 
part  of  the  butter,  salt,  and  pepper. 
Fry  the  onions  and  hard  yolks  of 
eggs  in  slices  till  tender  and  brown ; 
drain  off  all  the  fat,  and  stir  the 
onions  and  eggs  into  the  mashed 
potatoes  till  well  mixed.  Beat  the 
raw  eggs  till  frothy,  and  stir  them 
into  the  mixture ; add  the  catsup. 
Butter  a mould  well,  sprinkle  over  it 
the  bread-crumbs,  finely  sifted;  pour 
on  this  the  mixture  of  potatoes  and 
other  ingredients;  bake  for  half  an 
hour.  Turn  from  the  mould  on  a 
dish,  and  brown  in  the  oven  a few 
minutes.  Serve  hot. 

Potatoes,  Moulded,  with  Cheese 
Sauce. — Boil  and  mash  the  usual 
quantity  of  potatoes  necessary,  mak- 
ing them  quite  soft  with  hot  milk,  in 
which  a table-spoonful  of  butter  has 
been  melted.  Turn  the  potatoes  on  a 
fire-proof  plate  and  make  them  into 
a mound,  smoothing  the  surface 
with  a knife  so  that  there  are  no  pro- 
jections. With  a table-spoon  scoop 
out  enough  potato  from  the  centre  of 
the  mound  to  leave  a deep  cavity. 
Glaze  the  inside  of  this  and  the  out- 
side of  the  whole  mound  with  the 
white  of  an  egg,  and  set  in  the  oven. 
Melt  six  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,  and, 
while  hot,  add  to  it  four  table -spoon- 
fuls of  grated  cheese.  Pour  this  mixt- 
ure slowly,  stirring  all  the  time,  on 
the  well -beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
and  add  a pinch  of  pepper  and  salt. 
Now  remove  the  potato  from  the 
oven,  and  fill  the  hollow  in  the  centre 
with  the  cheese  mixture.  If  it  runs  over 
the  sides  of  the  mound,  do  not  worry. 
Sprinkle  fine  crumbs  over,  and  brown. 


Potatoes,  New,  Boiled  VEGETAB  LES 


Potato  Salad 


Potatoes,  New,  Boiled. — They  will 
lose  much  of  their  insipid  taste  if  a 
sprig  of  mint  is  added  to  the  water  in 
which  they  are  boiled.  So  common 
is  this  custom  in  England  that  the 
thrifty  housewife,  in  purchasing  her 
new  potatoes,  frequently  reminds  her 
salesman  to  send  home  a bunch  of 
mint  with  them.  Not  enough  of  the 
herb  should  be  used  to  make  the  taste 
discernible,  but  just  enough  to  give 
to  the  potato  a flavor  that  it  lacks. 
The  uninitiated  eater  thereof  will 
perceive  that  the  vegetable  is  better 
than  usual,  although  he  may  not 
guess  why. 

Potatoes,  Parisian.  — Peel  some 
large  potatoes ; scoop  them  out  into 
small  balls  with  a potato-scoop.  Wash 
and  dry  them  in  a clean  towel.  Put 
in  a small  saucepan  one  heaping 
table-spoonful  of  butter  or  of  good 
dripping;  when  melted,  put  in  the 
potatoes  and  cook  for  eighteen  min- 
utes in  an  uncovered  saucepan ; toss 
them  a little,  so  as  to  have  them  of  a 
light  brown  all  over.  Lift  them  up 
with  the  skimmer,  and  sprinkle  over 
them  one  salt-spoonful  of  salt. 

Potato  Patties.  — Take  as  many 
large,  well-shaped  potatoes  as  it  is 
intended  there  should  be  patties, 
wash  them  well,  and  bake  them. 
Take  them  out  before  they  are  quite 
done  enough,  so  that  the  skin  may 
not  be  injured,  and  carefully  cut  off 
the  top  and  scoop  out  the  inside  with 
a spoon.  Mix  with  the  floury  part 
two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  thick  cream, 
a little  piece  of  butter  and  a pinch  of 
salt,  together  with  sugar,  lemon,  or 
cinnamon  flavoring,  and  the  yolks 
and  whites  of  two  or  three  eggs  beaten 
and  added  separately.  Put  this  mixt- 
ure into  the  hollow  potatoes,  place 
them  upright,  side  by  side,  in  a but- 
tered dish,  and  bake  them  in  a hot 
oven.  If  liked  savory  instead  of 
sweet,  potato  patties  can  be  made  by 
mixing  with  the  potato  flour  a little 
pounded  veal  and  ham,  and  cream, 
salt,  pepper,  lemon-peel,  grated  nut- 
meg, and  mushroom  catsup  added 


in  suitable  proportions.  Time  to 
bake,  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes. 

Potato  Pudding.  — Mash  I lb.  of 
boiled  potatoes,  dry  and  floury,  and 
make  a batter  by  mixing  with  them 
I oz.  of  clarified  butter,  three  well- 
beaten  eggs,  and  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  milk,  together  with  a little  salt 
and  pepper.  Butter  a baking-dish 
rather  thickly,  pour  half  the  batter 
into  it,  and  lay  upon  this  lb.  of 
underdressed  beef  or  mutton,  cut  into 
neat  slices,  and  quite  free  from  fat, 
skin,  and  gristle.  Pour  the  rest  of 
the  batter  over  the  meat,  and  bake 
the  pudding  in  a moderate  oven. 
Serve  very  hot,  and  send  good  brown 
sauce  to  table  in  a tureen.  Time  to 
bake,  one  hour. 

Potato,  Puree  of. — Peel  and  wash  I 
lb.  of  good  potatoes.  Boil  and  drain 
them,  and  beat  them  up  with  a fork. 
Stir  in  with  them  a quarter  of  a pint 
of  good  broth  or  thick  cream,  and  pass 
them  through  a wire  sieve.  Put  the 
puree  into  a saucepan  with  2 ozs.  of 
butter  and  a little  pepper,  and  stir  it 
over  a gentle  fire  until  it  is  quite  hot. 
Pour  it  into  the  centre  of  a hot  dish, 
and  arrange  delicately  broiled  cut- 
lets— mutton,  pork,  or  lamb — in  a 
circle  round  it.  Time,  five  or  six 
minutes  to  heat  the  puree. 

Potato  Ribbons.  — Wash  and  peel 
half  a dozen  large  potatoes  and  let 
them  lie  in  cold  water  for  a few  min- 
utes. Cut  them  into  ribbons,  round 
and  round,  like  an  apple,  and  keep 
the  strips  as  nearly  as  possible  of  one 
width.  They  must  not  be  too  thin 
or  they  will  break.  Fry  them  in 
plenty  of  hot  fat  until  they  are  lightly^ 
browned.  Drain  them  on  a wire 
sieve,  and  sprinkle  a little  pepper  and 
salt  over  them.  Serve  on  a hot  dish. 
Time  to  fry,  eight  or  ten  minutes. 

Potato  Salad. — Cut  ten  or  twelve 
cold  boiled  potatoes  into  slices  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick;  put  these 
into  a salad  bowl  with  four  table- 
spoonfuls of  tarragon  or  plain  vine- 


427 


Potatoes,  Saratoga  VEGETAB  LES 


Potatoes,  Straw 


gar,  six  table-spoonfuls  of  best  salad 
oil,  one  table  - spoonful  of  minced 
parsley,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 
Stir  well,  that  all  the  ingredients 
may  be  thoroughly  mixed.  Potato 
salad  should  be  made  two  or  three 
hours  before  it  is  required  for  the 
table.  Anchovies,  olives,  or  any 
pickles  may  be  added  to  it,  and  also 
bits  of  cold  beef,  chicken,  or  turkey, 
if  desired.  It  is  excellent,  however, 
without  these.  The  imported  German 
potatoes,  to  be  had  in  any  delicates- 
sen store,  are  best  for  salads,  as  they 
are  not  as  mealy  as  American  potatoes. 

Potatoes,  Saratoga. — With  a cutter 
slice  the  potatoes  as  thin  as  possible. 
Put  the  slices  in  lukewarm  water 
for  fifteen  minutes,  then  in  ice-water 
for  several  hours,  changing  the  water 
hourly.  Drain  the  slices,  a few  at  a 
time,  dry  them  on  a napkin,  and 
immerse  them  in  hot  lard.  When 
browned,  take  out  and  drain,  sprinkle 
with  salt,  and  put  them  in  a moderate 
oven  with  the  door  open.  Serve  hot 
or  cold. 

Potatoes  with  Sauce  Piquante.  — 

Wash,  pare,  and  half  boil  some  large 
potatoes.  Drain  them,  and  when 
nearly  cold  cut  them  into  slices  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Cut  two 
or  three  rashers  of  fat  bacon  into 
small  pieces,  place  them  in  a stewpan 
with  a finely  minced  onion,  and  let 
them  steam  until  the  onion  is  tender. 
Add  a little  pepper  and  salt,  a lump 
of  sugar,  a bay-leaf,  and  as  much 
stock  or  water  as  will  barely  cover  the 
sliced  potatoes.  This  sauce  should 
be  thickened  with  flour  to  make  it  of 
the  consistency  of  thick  cream,  and 
as  much  vinegar  may  be  added  as 
will  make  it  agreeably  acid.  Let  the 
sauce  boil  a few  minutes,  put  in  the 
sliced  potatoes,  and  let  them  simmer 
till  they  are  tender  without  being 
broken.  Serve  very  hot,  with  the 
sauce  poured  over  them.  Time,  an 
hour  or  more. 


and  a little  hot  milk.  Butter  some 
scallop-shells  or  patty-pans,  fill  them 
with  the  mashed  potatoes,  make 
them  smooth  on  the  top,  and  then 
draw  the  back  of  a fork  over  them. 
Sprinkle  finely  grated  bread-crumbs 
on  the  top,  and  lay  small  pieces  of 
butter  here  and  there  upon  them. 
Put  the  potatoes  in  the  oven  till  they 
are  brightly  browned,  and  serve  on  a 
neatly  folded  napkin  in  the  scallop- 
shells.  Time,  about  a quarter  of  an 
hour  to  brown  the  potatoes. 

Potato  Snow.  — Choose  fine  white 
potatoes,  free  from  spots.  Wash  them 
well,  put  them  in  their  jackets  into 
a saucepan,  and  barely  cover  them 
with  cold  water.  Let  them  boil  gently 
until  they  begin  to  crack,  then  pour 
the  water  from  them,  let  them  drain, 
and  then  dry  by  the  side  of  the  fire 
until  they  fall  to  pieces.  Take  away 
the  skins,  and  lay  the  hot  dish  on 
which  the  potatoes  are  to  be  served 
before  the  fire.  Rub  the  potatoes 
through  a hot  wire  sieve,  so  that  they 
shall  fall  lightly  upon  the  dish,  and 
on  no  account  disturb  them  after 
they  have  fallen.  Serve  very  hot. 
Time,  thirty  to  forty  minutes  to  boil 
the  potatoes. 

Potatoes,  Stewed.— Peel  and  slice 
the  potatoes.  Put  the  slices  into  a 
saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  water, 
and  boil  till  tender.  Pour  off  the 
water.  Roll  a large  piece  of  butter  in 
flour,  and  beat  it  in  half  a pint  of  hot 
milk  till  smooth.  Season  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  boil.  When  boiling, 
put  in  the  potatoes,  stew  together  for 
five  minutes,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Potatoes,  Straw. — Wash  and  dry 
three  long  and  thick  potatoes ; divide 
them  lengthwise.  Scoop  out  the  in- 
side in  one  piece,  being  careful  not  to 
break  the  skin.  Cut  the  scooped  part 
in  straws,  lengthwise.  Dry  both  thor- 
oughly. Have  plenty  of  fat  — not 
less  than  two  quarts.  When  very 
hot,  but  not  boiling,  put  in  first  the 
cradles ; fry  them  eight  minutes,  and 
then  drain.  Wait  until  the  fat  is 


Potatoes,  Scalloped. — Mash  some 
potatoes  in  the  usual  way  with  butter 

428 


Potatoes,  Stuffed 


VEGETABLES 


Rice 


very  hot,  then  fry  the  straw  potatoes 
for  four  minutes.  While  frying,  toss 
them  around  with  the  skimmer. 
Serve  them  in  the  cradles  on  a napkin. 

Potatoes,  Stuffed. — Wash  and  dry 
some  long,  medium  - sized  potatoes, 
and  bake  them  thirty -five  minutes; 
then  open  them  lengthwise  and  scoop 
them  out,  leaving  very  little  of  the 
potato  inside.  Butter  each  part  and 
fill  it  with  this  prepared  stuffing  : 
For  each  potato  one  medium -sized 
tomato,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
onion,  half  a teaspoonful  of  green 
pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  butter, 
half  a salt-spoonful  of  salt,  quarter 
of  a salt-spoonful  of  black  pepper. 
Peel  the  tomatoes,  remove  all  the 
seeds,  and  cut  them  in  pieces.  Put 
the  butter  into  a small  saucepan ; 
when  melted  put  in  the  onions ; cook 
two  minutes,  then  add  everything  to 
it.  Cook  fifteen  minutes,  uncovered, 
stirring  from  time  to  time,  and  re- 
move from  the  fire.  Have  the  pulp 
of  the  potatoes  passed  through  a 
colander,  mix  it  well  with  the  cooked 
tomatoes,  fill  up  each  part  of  the 
potato  perfect^  level,  so  as  to  be  able 
to  close  them.  Put  them  back  in  the 
oven  fifteen  minutes  and  serve. 

Pumpkin. — Cut  in  slices,  boil  in 
salted  water  until  tender,  and  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter.  It 
can  also  be  cut  in  slices  and  baked. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  vine- 
gar. See  also  Pies. 

Rhubarb,  Spiced  (to  serve  with 
meats). — Slice  the  rhubarb  into  inch 
pieces  and  weigh  it.  Put  the  fruit  into 
a porcelain  - lined  kettle,  add  '/z  lb.  of 
sugar  for  I lb.  of  rhubarb,  place  it  at 
the  back  of  the  range  where  it  will  be 
heated  and  the  sugar  be  dissolved, 
and  add  a few  whole  cloves  and  some 
stick  cinnamon.  Cook  slowly  until 
it  is  almost  as  thick  as  jam.  Turn 
into  glasses,  and,  when  it  is  cold, 
cover. 

Rhubarb,  Stewed.  — To  i lb.  of 

rhubarb,  cut  in  pieces  of  one  or  two 


inches  in  length,  allow  *4  lb.  of  loaf 
sugar  and  the  grated  rind  of  one 
lemon.  Have  ready-  a large  tin  sauce- 
pan of  boiling  water,  throw  the  rhu- 
barb in,  and  stir  the  pieces  down  with 
a wooden  or  silver  spoon.  Put  the 
cover  on,  and  for  three  or  four  minutes 
it  may  be  left,  then  the  cover  taken 
off ; the  rhubarb  is  not  again  left 
until  it  is  done.  It  may  be  turned 
in  the  saucepan  with  the  spoon  so 
as  not  to  break  the  rhubarb.  The 
moment  it  boils  it  softens.  In  three 
minutes  strain  it  off  quickly,  with  the 
cover  tilted  on  the  saucepan.  Let  it 
slip  from  the  saucepan  into  a pie-dish  ; 
sprinkle  the  loaf  sugar  and  grated 
lemon  over  it,  and  leave  until  cold. 

Rhubarb  in  Syrup.  — Make  a 
rich  syrup  of  granulated  sugar  and  a 
little  water.  Cook  in  it  a few  pieces  of 
the  yellow  part  cf  orange-peel.  Cut 
the  rhubarb  in  two-inch  lengths  and 
drop  enough  of  the  pieces  into  the 
syrup  at  one  time  to  make  a single 
layer.  Cook  them  until  they  are 
clear  and  tender,  then  drain  out  and 
place  them  in  a glass  dish.  Repeat 
until  all  the  rhubarb  is  cooked.  Pour 
the  syrup  that  remains  over  the  cooked 
fruit  and  serve  cold. 

Rhubarb  Tapioca. — Wash  one  cup- 
ful of  pearl  tapioca  and  soak  it  in 
a quart  of  water  four  hours.  Butter 
a pudding-dish  and  cover  Lie  bottom 
with  a thick  layer  of  cut  rhubarb. 
Grate  a little  orange-peel  over  it  and 
sprinkle  with  sugar.  Turn  over  this 
one  - half  of  the  soaked  tapioca  and 
sprinkle  with  tiny  bits  of  butter. 
Put  on  another  layer  of  rhubarb  and 
finish  with  the  tapioca.  Bake  one 
hour  in  a moderate  oven.  Serve 
warm  with  sweetened  cream. 

Rice,  properly  cooked,  makes  a 
very  nice  addition  to  certain  kinds 
of  meat.  The  grains  should  be  pre- 
served whole,  and  not,  as  is  near- 
ly always  done,  cooked  until  they 
become  an  unsightly  mass.  After 
washing  and  picking  over  the  grains, 
put  them  into  a large  tin  dish  or 


Sice,  Boiled 


VEGETABLES  Rice  and  Mushrooms 


shallow  pan,  where  they  will  not  lie 
too  closely,  and,  pouring  on  a little 
water,  cover,  and  place  on  the  stove  or 
in  the  oven,  where  they  will  cook  very 
slowly;  the  steam,  being  kept  in  the 
dish,  causes  the  grains  to  swell,  and 
cooks  them  without  destroying  the 
shape. 

Rice,  Boiled. — Take  lb.  of  rice, 
wash  it  well  in  two  waters,  cold,  and 
put  the  rice  into  a two-quart  sauce- 
pan without  a cover.  Fill  it  three- 
quarters  full  of  cold  water,  and  boil 
it  slowly  on  a moderate  fire,  stirring 
occasionally  until  the  grains  become 
done  enough,  which  will  be  known 
by  tasting,  as  well  as  by  feeling  them 
between  the  finger  and  thumb.  If 
soft  to  the  heart  they  are  ready, 
which  will  take  about  twenty  minutes. 
Now  put  in  one  table-spoonful  of 
salt,  stir  up,  and  take  off  immediately 
and  throw  the  whole  into  a colander  or 
drainer  for  ten  minutes,  and  allow 
the  water  to  drain  thoroughly  off 
and  the  rice  to  become  free  and  dry. 
East  Indian  rice  should  be  soaked  in 
water  overnight.  It  requires  less 
time  to  boil  when  soaked.  The  rice 
becomes  lighter  from  the  fact  that 
the  grains  separate  more  readily. 
Put  the  rice  on  in  plenty  of  cold  water, 
stirring  it  from  the  bottom  of  the 
saucepan  occasionally.  When  the 
grains  separate  at  the  ends  and 
they  appear  to  form  the  letter  X,  the 
rice  will  be  cooked ; the  time  required 
is  half  an  hour.  When  the  rice  is 
cooked,  drain  in  a colander,  and 
place  it  before  the  fire,  stirring  now 
and  then  with  a fork.  Then  serve 
with  the  soup  or  dishes  of  curry.  In 
Germany  rice  is  served  with  a rather 
profuse  sprinkling  of  sugar  and  a lit- 
tle ground  cinnamon  on  the  top. 

Rice,  Boiled  (Turkish). — Put  into 
a saucepan  six  cupfuls  of  stock  or 
broth  containing  four  cupfuls  of  the 
pulp  of  fresh  tomatoes  passed  through 
a sieve ; pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 
When  it  boils,  throw  in,  for  every 
cupful  of  stock,  half  a cupful  of  fine 
rice,  well  washed  and  dried  before 


the  fire.  Let  the  whole  remain  on  the 
fire  until  the  rice  has  absorbed  all  the 
stock,  then  melt  a large  table-spoonful 
of  butter  and  pour  it  over  the  rice. 
At  the  time  of  serving  take  from  the 
fire  and  stir  lightly,  to  separate  the 
grains. 

Rice,  Casserole  of.  — Prepare  this 
by  boiling  a cup  of  rice  in  a pint  of 
well  - seasoned  chicken  bouillon  until 
tender,  and  until  each  grain  stands 
separate.  When  the  rice  is  quite  dry 
make  a firm  mound  of  it  on  a platter, 
wash  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  sprinkle 
with  Parmesan  cheese,  and  brown  in 
a very  hot  oven.  This  dish  may  be 
served  with  tomato  sauce. 

Rice,  Creole. — Put  one -half  cup 
of  well-washed  rice  in  the  top  of  the 
double  boiler  and  cook  over  hot  fire 
in  a little  butter  until  slightly  colored. 
Add  two  cups  of  slightly  salted  boil- 
ing water  and  let  it  steam  until  the 
rice  is  tender  and  nearly  dry.  Slice 
four  ripe  tomatoes,  two  onions,  and 
two  green  peppers,  freed  from  seeds ; 
cook  them  in  hot  butter  until  soft, 
being  careful  not  to  burn  them. 
Turn  the  rice  into  a hot  dish,  pour  the 
fried  mixture  over  it,  and  serve  hot. 

Rice  Macaroni. — Wash  and  pick 
over  one  teacupful  of  rice ; add  to  it 
three  teacupfuls  of  boiling  water, 
and  place  over  the  fire.  When  done, 
drain,  and  in  a baking-dish  place  a 
layer  of  rice,  then  a layer  of  cheese 
cut  into  dice,  a little  butter,  salt,  and 
pepper,  and  alternating  with  rice  and 
cheese  until  the  dish  is  full,  having 
cheese  on  top.  Fill  the  pan  with 
milk,  and  bake  three-quarters  of  an 
hour. 

Rice  and  Mushroom  Croquettes. — 

Open  a can  of  mushrooms  (the  French 
champignons)  several  hours  before 
you  make  the  croquettes,  and  drain 
off  the  liquor.  Stew  them  for  ten 
minutes  in  mutton  or  chicken  stock, 
drain  again,  and  chop.  Save  the 
soup-stock,  and  cook  in  it  half  a 
dozen  table-spoonfuls  of  rice.  The 


430 


Rice  Risotto 


VEGETABLES 


Rice,  Timbale  of 


rice  will  soak  up  all  the  broth,  unless 
there  is  more  than  is  necessary. 
Add  to  the  soft  rice  the  mushrooms, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  melted  butter, 
the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and 
season  with  pepper  and  salt.  When 
this  paste  is  thoroughly  cold,  flour 
your  hands  and  make  it  into  cro- 
quettes. Roll  these  in  egg  and 
cracker  dust,  and  set  them  for  several 
hours  in  the  ice-chest  before  frying 
in  deep  fat. 

Rice  Risotto. — Fry  a sliced  onion 
brown,  in  a table-spoonful  of  olive  oil 
or  of  butter.  Add  to  these  a pint  of 
hot  water  and  a cup  of  rice  which 
has  been  washed  and  picked  over. 
Let  it  boil  until  soft,  adding  more 
water  if  the  rice  becomes  too  dry. 
Heat  a cupful  of  stewed  tomatoes, 
liquid  and  pulp  together,  but  free 
from  lumps,  and  stir  into  it  a tea- 
spoonful of  sugar.  When  the  rice  is 
soft,  salt  it  to  taste ; add  the  tomato; 
turn  the  risotto  into  a dish  and  strew 
over  it  a heaping  table-spoonful  of 
grated  cheese ; Parmesan  is  the  best. 

Rice,  Savory.  — Boil  a cupful  of 
rice  in  three  pints  of  boiling  water 
for  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  the  grains 
are  large  and  full  and  yet  soft.  Drain 
it  thoroughly.  Melt  a table-spoonful 
of  butter  in  a frying-pan,  or,  better 
still,  heat  two  table -spoonfuls  of 
salad  oil.  Brown  a sliced  onion  in 
this ; take  it  out,  put  in  the  rice,  and 
stir  it  with  a fork  until  it  is  slightly 
browned.  Have  hot  in  a saucepan 
a cupful  of  tomato  pulp,  rubbed 
smooth  and  seasoned  with  pepper 
and  salt.  Stir  this  into  the  browned 
rice,  sprinkle  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  grated  cheese,  and  turn  out  in  a 
hot  vegetable-dish.  This  makes  an 
excellent  first  course  at  luncheon. 

Rice,  Savory,  Casserole  of. — Wash 
a cupful  of  raw  rice ; put  it  over  the 
fire  in  two  quarts  of  boiling  water, 
slightly  salted,  and  boil  hard  for 
twenty  minutes.  Drain  through  a 
colander  and  set  in  an  open  oven 
five  minutes  to  dry  off.  Each  grain 


should  be  distinct  and  separate  from 
the  rest.  Have  ready  the  giblets  of 
two  chickens  or  of  one  turkey,  which 
have  been  parboiled  and  chopped 
fine,  also  a table-spoonful  of  finely 
minced  salt  pork  and  six  olives,  minced 
very  small.  Heat  this  mixture  in 
enough  gravy  or  stock  to  cover  it ; 
simmer  for  a minute,  season  well 
with  paprika,  salt,  and  onion-juice, 
thicken  with  browned  flour,  and  stir 
the  boiled  rice  into  it,  mixed  with  a 
fork,  being  careful  not  to  break  the 
rice.  Lastly,  add  two  well  - beaten 
eggs  to  bind  the  mixture,  and  turn 
into  a well  - buttered  mould  that  has 
a close  lid.  Cover,  set  in  a pot  of  boil- 
ing water,  and  cook  steadily  for  two 
hours,  replenishing  from  the  boiling 
tea-kettle,  should  the  water  sink  lower 
than  two -thirds  of  the  way  up  the 
sides  of  the  mould.  Dip  into  cold 
water  for  a second  to  loosen  the  cas- 
serole from  the  mould,  invert  carefully 
upon  a hot  platter,  and  pour  a rich 
tomato  sauce  about  the  base.  This 
is  an  Italian  recipe.  If  you  like  you 
may  stir  two  table-spoonfuls  of  Par- 
mesan cheese  into  the  sauce. 

Rice,  Timbale  of. — Put  in  a sauce- 
pan two  table - spoonfuls  of  onions, 
chopped  fine,  with  one  table-spoonful 
of  butter ; cook  five  minutes,  but  do 
not  let  it  brown.  Add  to  it  I lb.  of 
clear  rice,  not  wet.  Stir  with  the 
onions  two  minutes;  add  three  pints 
of  good  beef  broth  or  one  teaspoonful 
of  beef  extract  diluted  in  the  same 
quantity  of  warm  water.  Let  cook 
twenty-five  minutes  without  disturb- 
ing it ; remove  from  the  fire.  All 
the  liquid  must  be  absorbed.  Add 
to  it  % lb.  of  freshly  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one 
salt-spoonful  of  pepper;  stir  gently. 
Cover  the  saucepan  for  five  minutes 
at  the  side  of  the  fire.  Butter  well  in- 
side a mould  of  one  quart,  pack  the 
rice  in  it,  place  in  a hot  oven  for 
fifteen  minutes ; unmould  over  a 
round,  hot  platter.  Put  the  remain- 
ing rice  around  it,  or  some  vegetables 
previously  cooked  in  salted  water, 
and  then  cut  strawlike,  well  drained, 


431 


Rice,  Timbale  of 


VEGETABLES 


Spinach 


and  seasoned  with  butter,  salt,  and 
pepper. 

Rice,  Timbale  of,  with  Apricot 
Marmalade. — Wash  and  dry  x/z  lb. 
of  rice, and  put  it  in  a small  saucepan 
with  a quart  of  cold  water.  When  it 
comes  to  a boil,  remove  and  drain. 
Rinse  the  saucepan,  and  put  the  rice 
back  in  it  with  one  quart  and  a half  of 
boiled  milk,  half  a salt-spoonful  of 
salt,  and  half  a table -spoonful  of 
butter.  Let  it  come  to  a boil,  and 
then  only  simmer  in  covered  sauce- 
pan for  thirty  minutes  ; do  not  stir. 
The  rice  will  be  tender  and  each 
grain  separate.  Then  add  % lb.  of 
sugar.  Keep  the  saucepan  covered 
for  ten  minutes,  but  do  not  cook  any 
more.  Remove  from  the  fire ; mix 
three  yolks  of  raw  eggs  with  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  cream  and  one  tea- 
spoonful of  vanilla  or  maraschino; 
add  them  to  the  rice,  mix  well,  pui  in  a 
bowl,  and  let  it  cool  off.  Finish  with 
half  a pint  of  stiff  whipped  cream. 
Mix  gently.  Put  it  in  a cold  tin 
mould  of  one  quart  and  a half,  or  in 
a porcelain  bowl,  first  a layer  of  rice, 
then  a layer  of  marmalade,  apricot, 
or  orange,  and  so  on,  putting  four 
layers  of  each,  and  finishing  with 
another  of  rice.  Bury  the  mould  in 
ice  for  three  hours.  Serve  on  a 
fancy  round  platter,  and  deco- 
rate the  top  with  some  candied 
fruits. 

Rice  and  Tomatoes,  Curried.  — 

To  one  quart  of  stewed  tomatoes  that 
have  been  well  seasoned  add  two 
or  three  okras  cut  into  thin  slices, 
a table  - spoonful  of  melted  butter, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder. 
Soak  one  cupful  of  rice  in  cold  water 
fifteen  minutes  and  then  rinse  in 
clear  water.  Butter  a baking- dish 
and  put  in  a layer  of  the  prepared 
tomatoes,  then  a layer  of  rice,  al- 
ternating them  until  the  dish  is  filled, 
having  tomatoes  for  the  last  layer. 
Sprinlde  bread-crumbs  over  the  top 
and  scatter  tiny  bits  of  butter  over 
them.  Put  in  a moderate  oven  and 
bake  about  forty-five  minutes. 


Salsify,  Baked. — Salsify  is  some- 
times styled  the  vegetable  oyster, 
from  its  supposed  resemblance  to  the 
oyster  in  flavor.  It  is  one  of  our  most 
valuable  winter  vegetables,  and  es- 
pecially nice  when  eaten  with  tur- 
key or  other  fowl.  Without  scraping, 
boil  until  the  skin  comes  off  easily. 
Slice  thin.  Put  into  a china  baking- 
dish  a layer  of  salsify,  a layer  of 
crumbs  of  bread,  a little  salt,  pepper, 
and  a covering  of  butter  as  thin  as 
you  can  cut  it.  Repeat  until  full, 
with  crumbs  of  bread  for  the  top. 
Pour  in  then  as  much  milk  as  the 
dish  will  hold,  and  bake  brown. 

Salsify,  Fried. — Stew  the  salsify 
as  usual  till  very  tender;  then  with 
the  back  of  a spoon  or  small  mallet 
mash  it  very  fine.  Beat  up  an  egg, 
add  a teacupful  of  milk,  a little  flour, 
butter,  and  seasoning  of  pepper  and 
salt.  Make  into  little  cakes  and  fry 
a light  brown  in  boiling  lard. 

Salsify  Sauce. — Scrape  and  wash 
two  roots  of  salsify,  rub  them  with 
lemon,  and  throw  them  into  cold 
water  till  wanted.  Boil  the  roots  till 
perfectly  tender  in  lightly  salted 
water.  Drain  them,  cut  them  into 
small  pieces,  stir  them  into  half  a 
pint  of  melted  butter,  simmer  a few 
minutes,  and  serve.  Time,  one  hour 
and  a quarter. 

Salsify,  Stewed. — Wash  the  roots 
and  scrape  off  their  skins,  throwing 
them,  as  you  do  so,  into  cold  water, 
for  exposure  to  the  air  causes  them 
to  immediately  turn  dark.  Then  cut 
transversely  into  little  bits,  throw 
into  fresh  water,  add  a little  salt,  and 
stew  in  a covered  vessel  until  tender. 
Pour  off  the  water,  add  a small  lump 
of  butter,  a little  pepper,  and  a gill  of 
sweet  cream. 

Spinach. — It  should  be  cooked  so 
as  to  retain  its  bright- green  color, 
and  not  sent  to  table,  as  it  so  often  is, 
of  dull-brown  or  olive  color;  to  retain 
its  fresh  appearance,  do  not  coyer  the 
vessel  while  it  is  cooking.  Boil  until 


432 


Spinach 


VEGETABLES  Spinach  with  Gravy 


tender,  drain  in  a colander,  chop 
fine,  add  a lump  of  butter,  a teacupful 
of  rich  cream,  a teaspoonful  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  one  of  salt,  and  a little 
black  pepper.  Serve  hot,  covered 
with  slices  of  hard-boiled  egg. 

Spinach  (French  mode  of  dressing). 
— Prepare  the  spinach  as  usual. 
When  it  has  been  boiled,  drained, 
soaked  in  cold  water,  squeezed  dry, 
and  chopped  small,  dissolve  2 ozs.  of 
fresh  butter  in  a saucepan,  and  stir 
the  spinach  in  it  over  the  fire  till  it  is 
hot  and  dry.  Add  to  it,  gradually, 
two  or  three  table- spoonfuls  of  boil- 
ing cream.  Add  a dessert-spoonful  of 
powdered  sugar  and  a little  salt,  and 
stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  till  the 
moisture  is  absorbed ; then  serve  the 
spinach  very  hot.  Garnish  the  dish 
with  fried  sippets  of  bread,  or  freshly 
baked  pieces  of  puff  paste  cut  into 
fancy  shapes,  or  with  hard-boiled  eggs 
cut  in  slices  or  quarters.  Time,  ten 
minutes  to  boil  the  spinach. 

Spinach  (German  mode  of  cooking). 
— "Spinach,”  says  the  compiler  of 
German  National  Cookery,  “ requires 
to  lie  in  water  a little  while,  and  to  be 
several  times  rinsed  in  fresh  water. 
Put  it  into  boiling  water  with  salt; 
give  it  eight  or  ten  minutes'  gentle 
boiling,  uncovered.  If  its  earthy 
flavor  is  objected  to,  throw  it  into 
plenty  of  cold  water  when  boiled 
enough,  then  drain  and  press  it  dry ; 
chop  it  fine.  Make  butter  hot,  throw 
into  it  some  grated  bread-crumbs, 
then  add  the  spinach.  Or  make  a 
thick  butter-sauce,  and  stir  the  spin- 
ach into  this  to  get  thoroughly  hot. 
Serve  garnished  with  either  cutlets, 
sausages,  hard  - boiled  eggs,  sliced, 
and  sippets  of  buttered  toast  or 
poached  eggs.  If  the  full  flavor  of 
the  spinach  is  liked,  simply  wash  it 
well,  clear  it  of  the  large  stems,  and 
drain  it.  Put  a piece  of  butter  in  a 
saucepan,  and  when  melted  put  in 
the  spinach ; cover,  and  as  it  shrinks 
put  in  more.  Let  it  cook  in  its  own 
juice.  Sprinkle  salt  over  as  you  put 
it  in.'* 

28 


Spinach  with  Eggs. — Boil  the  spin- 
ach till  tender.  Put  it  into  a colander, 
and  press  the  moisture  from  it  with  the 
back  of  a plate.  Mince  it  finely,  then 
put  it  into  a saucepan  with  a slice  of 
fresh  butter  and  a little  pepper  and 
salt,  and  stir  it  well  till  it  is  hot  and 
dry.  Put  it  on  a hot  dish,  smooth  it 
with  the  blade  of  a knife,  and  mark 
it  in  squares.  Place  as  many  poach- 
ed eggs  as  there  are  guests  on  the  top 
of  the  spinach,  or,  if  preferred,  put 
them  round  it,  each  egg  on  a piece  of 
buttered  toast.  Serve  the  whole  very 
hot.  If  a superior  dish  is  required, 
the  spinach,  after  being  boiled  till 
tender,  may  be  rubbed  through  a 
wire  sieve,  and  the  pulp  mixed  with  a 
slice  of  fresh  butter,  a table-spoonful 
of  thick  cream,  and  a little  pepper 
and  salt.  Time  to  boil  spinach,  ten 
to  fifteen  minutes. 

Spinach  with  Gravy. — Take  3 lbs. 
of  spinach.  Pick  the  leaves  from 
the  stalks  and  wash  them  well  in 
several  waters ; drain  them,  throw 
them  into  a saucepan  with  plenty  of 
slightly  salted  boiling  water,  and  let 
them  boil  for  five  minutes.  Press 
the  spinach,  and  throw  it  into  cold 
water  for  half  an  hour  to  preserve  the 
color.  Take  it  out  of  the  water  a 
little  at  a time,  press  the  moisture 
thoroughly  from  it,  spread  it  on  a 
dish,  pick  out  any  stalks  or  straws 
that  may  have  been  left  in  it,  and 
chop  it  small.  Mix  I oz.  of  butter 
smoothly  in  a saucepan  with  I oz.  of 
flour,  add  a pinch  of  salt,  and  stir  the 
mixture  over  the  fire  for  three  minutes. 
Put  in  the  spinach  and  stir  it  for  five 
minutes.  Pour  in  a quarter  of  a pint 
of  stock,  and  when  this  is  thorough- 
ly blended  with  the  vegetable  add,  a 
little  at  a time,  half  a pint  more ; stir 
the  spinach  again  for  five  minutes. 
Lift  it  from  the  fire,  stir  into  it  till  dis- 
solved 1 oz.  of  fresh  butter,  and  serve 
very  hot.  Garnish  the  dish  with 
triangular  pieces  of  crumb  of  bread 
half  an  inch  thick.  Spinach  when 
thus  dressed  will  constitute  an  en- 
joyable accompaniment  to  veal  or 
boiled  mutton.  With  roast  meat  it 


433 


Spinach,  Pur6e  of  VEGETABLES 


Sweet  Potatoes 


is  best  when  served  plain.  Time, 
altogether,  about  an  hour. 

Spinach,  Puree  of,  with  Butter. — 

Pick  the  stalks  from  3 lbs.  of  spinach, 
and  wash  it  in  two  or  three  waters. 
Lift  it  out  of  the  water  with  the  fingers, 
that  the  sand  may  settle  at  the  bottom, 
and  put  it  into  a saucepan  with  as 
much  boiling  water,  slightly  salted, 
as  will  keep  it  from  burning.  Keep 
it  boiling  till  it  is  tender,  and  press 
it  under  the  water  occasionally  with 
a wooden  spoon.  Drain  it  well ; 
carefully  pick  away  any  stalks  or 
fibre  that  may  still  remain,  and  rub 
it  through  a coarse  sieve.  Put  the 
pulp  into  a saucepan  with  a slice  of 
fresh  butter  and  a little  pepper  and 
salt,  and  stir  it  briskly  over  the  fire 
till  it  is  quite  hot.  Add  a spoonful 
or  two  of  sauce,  and  let  it  remain 
on  the  fire,  stirring  all  the  time,  for 
five  minutes.  Serve  very  hot,  and 
garnish  with  fried  sippets,  or  pile  it 
in  the  centre  of  a dish,  and  place 
lamb  or  mutton  cutlets  on  end  round 
it,  the  long  bones  inclining  towards 
each  other.  Time  to  boil  the  spinach, 
ten  to  fifteen  minutes. 

Squash,  Baked.  — Boil  until  soft 
enough  to  mash  with  a spoon;  drain 
off  all  the  water  carefully;  season 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  butter  to  taste. 
Beat  two  eggs  till  light ; stir  into 
them  half  a cupful  of  milk ; mix  all 
well  together.  Put  into  a dish  and 
bake  quickly  in  a hot  oven. 

Squash,  Boiled.  — Peel  the  squash, 
free  it  from  seed,  cut  it  into  six  or 
eight  pieces,  and  put  them  into  boil- 
ing water ; let  them  boil  gently  till 
tender.  Lift  them  up  carefully  with 
a slice,  put  them  on  toast,  pour  melted 
butter  or  white  sauce  over  them,  and 
serve. 

Another  way  : — Put  the  squash 
whole,  without  skinning,  into  boiling 
water.  Let  it  boil  until  tender.  Take 
it  up,  halve,  pare,  and  seed  it ; lay  the 
halves  on  toast,  with  the  hollow  part 
uppermost,  and  fill  them  with  rich 
melted  butter. 


Another  way : — Pare  and  seed  the 
squash,  divide  it  into  quarters,  and 
the  quarters  into  halves.  Trim  them 
neatly.  Rub  the  inside  of  a sauce- 
pan with  butter.  Lay  the  pieces  of 
squash  in  it,  and  sprinkle  over  them 
a little  pepper,  salt,  grated  nutmeg, 
and  pounded  sugar.  Pour  upon 
them  half  a pint  of  veal  stock,  and 
boil  gently  till  tender.  Lift  them 
upon  a dish;  add  to  the  gravy  the 
juice  of  half  a lemon  and  a little  piece 
of  butter;  pour  it  over  the  squash, 
and  serve.  If  liked,  the  squash  may 
be  stewed  in  milk  instead  of  gravy, 
and  may  be  seasoned  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  pounded  mace.  Time  to 
boil,  ten  to  twenty  minutes,  if  boiled 
in  slices ; if  boiled  whole,  longer,  ac- 
cording to  size. 

Squash  Cakes.  — Two  cupfuls  of 
boiled  squash  mashed  and  rubbed 
through  a colander,  three  eggs,  beat- 
en light,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cream, 
one  table  - spoonful  of  melted  butter, 
about  two  table  - spoonfuls  of  flour. 
Beat  the  eggs  into  the  squash,  then, 
slowly,  the  cream,  the  melted  butter, 
salt  to  taste,  and  lastly  the  flour. 
Add  this  last  cautiously,  as  some 
flour  thickens  more  than  others,  and 
in  this  case  just  enough  is  needed  to 
hold  the  ingredients  together.  Cook 
as  you  would  cakes  on  a griddle, 
and  serve  very  hot.  They  are  eaten 
with  butter  and  as  a vegetable. 

Squash,  Fried. — Pare  the  squashes, 
and  cut  them  into  thinnish  pieces ; 
make  a thin  batter  of  flour  and  water  ; 
dip  them  into  it,  and  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper  after  you  lay  them 
in  the  hot  butter  or  lard ; fry  brown 
in  a rather  quick  oven,  or  on  the  top 
of  the  stove ; then  turn,  and  brown 
them  on  the  other  side. 

Sweet  Potatoes,  Boiled.  — Thor- 
oughly wash  and  scrub  them,  put 
them  in  boiling  water  and  cook  until 
they  can  be  easily  pierced  with  a fork. 
The  time  will  depend  on  the  size  of  the 
potatoes,  from  one -half  to  one  hour. 
When  done  pour  off  the  water,  cover 


434 


Sweet  Potatoes 


VEGETABLES  Tomatoes,  Curried 


the  pot  with  a cloth,  and  let  the  pota- 
toes steam  for  *en  minutes. 

Sweet  Potatoes,  Buttered. — Take 
good-sized  sweet  potatoes,  scrape  and 
boil  them,  slice  them  lengthwise; 
butter  each  piece,  lay  in  a pan,  and 
set  them  in  the  oven  until  the  butter 
is  well  melted  into  the  potatoes. 

Sweet -potato  Cakes. — These  are 
made  by  using  grated  boiled  sweet 
potatoes,  two  cupfuls  rubbed  through 
a colander,  three  eggs  beaten  light, 
two  table  - spoonfuls  of  cream  and 
one  of  melted  butter,  and  two  of 
flour.  Beat  the  eggs  into  the  squash, 
then  the  cream,  then  the  butter,  and 
at  last  the  flour.  Cook  on  a griddle. 
Drop  in  boiling  fat  and  fry  to  a golden 
brown.  Serve  at  once  with  the  fol- 
lowing sauce : Cream  together  three 
table  - spoonfuls  of  butter  and  two 
cupfuls  of  sugar.  Heat  (in  a double 
boiler)  two  wineglassfuls  of  claret,  into 
which  has  been  stirred  a teaspoonful 
of  grated  nutmeg.  Stir  the  hot  wine 
into  the  creamed  butter  and  sugar, 
turn  all  into  a saucepan  set  in  an- 
other of  hot  water ; as  the  sauce  be- 
comes hot,  beat  steadily  until  it  is 
foamy.  Send  at  once  to  the  table. 
This  sauce  is  poured  over  each  fritter 
as  it  is  served. 

Sweet-potato  Croquettes. — Boil  as 
many  sweet  potatoes  as  will  make 
two  cupfuls  when  mashed.  Mash 
while  hot,  and  beat  into  the  smok- 
ing mass  a table-spoonful  of  butter, 
the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  cream  or  rich  milk. 
Set  the  mixture  aside  until  cool, 
when  it  may  be  easily  moulded  into 
croquettes.  Roll  the  croquettes  in 
egg  and  fine  cracker  - crumbs,  and 
set  in  a cold  place  for  several  hours 
before  frying  to  a golden  brown  in 
deep  fat. 

Sweet  Potatoes  in  Surprise.  — 

Select  some  nicely  shaped  sweet 
potatoes,  which  must  be  long.  Wash 
and  dry  and  cut  them  in  two,  length- 
wise. Scoop  out  both  parts,  wide 


and  deep  enough  to  hold  a bird,  butter 
the  inside  thoroughly,  and  prepare 
the  birds  in  the  same  way  as  for  the 
nest.  Put  one  in  each  potato,  put 
the  cover  over,  secure  it  with  a small 
string  so  as  to  close  tightly.  Lay 
them  in  a buttered  baking-pan,  and 
bake  thirty  minutes  in  a moderate 
oven.  Take  out,  cut  the  strings  of 
the  potatoes  and  of  the  birds,  remove 
the  blanket  of  pork,  and  serve  the 
potatoes  with  cover  over  on  a napkin. 
Blackbirds  or  any  small  birds  cooked 
and  served  in  this  manner  are  most 
delicious  and  savory. 

Tomatoes,  Baked. — Cut  nice  ripe 
smooth  fruit  in  two ; lay  them  in  a 
dripping-pan,  in  which  a small  piece 
of  butter  has  been  melted,  placing 
the  skin  side  down.  Set  over  a brisk 
fire.  When  the  under  side  is  brown, 
take  them  off  the  fire.  Have  an 
earthen  baking-dish,  in  which  place 
them,  skin  side  down,  one  at  a time, 
being  careful  not  to  break  them.  In 
each  one  put  a small  piece  of  but- 
ter, a little  salt  and  pepper,  and 
dredge  a small  portion  of  flour  over 
all.  Place  in  a slow  oven  and  bake 
three  hours.  When  done,  carefully 
place  one  at  a time  on  the  dish  on 
which  you  wish  to  serve  them,  and 
send  hot  to  table.  This  is  a most 
excellent  dish. 

Tomatoes,  Broiled. — Take  large 
round  tomatoes,  wipe  them  carefully, 
and  put  them  on  the  gridiron  over 
coals,  placing  the  stem  side  down. 
When  they  are  brown,  turn  over  and 
let  them  cook  until  done  through. 

Another  way  : — Cut  solid  tomatoes 
in  half  without  removing  the  skin. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
broil  for  a few  minutes  with  the  skin 
side  to  the  fire.  Serve  with  mayon- 
naise or  bearnaise  sauce  heated. 

T omatoes,  Curried. — Grate  ana  pple 
and  chop  an  onion — of  equal  size — 
and  fry  them  until  tender ; add  a tea- 
spoonful of  good  curry  powder  mixed 
with  a little  gravy  or  milk;  simmer 
for  £ few  minutes,  and  spread  the 


435 


Tomatoes,  Devilled  VEGETABLES 


Tomato  Purge 


tomatoes  — first  cut  and  fried,  or 
baked — with  the  mixture.  Serve  with 
boiled  rice. 

Tomatoes,  Devilled. — Peel  and  cut 
large,  firm  tomatoes  crosswise  into 
thick  slices  and  broil.  Lay  them  on  a 
hot  dish  and  pour  over  them  a sauce 
made  of  three  table-spoonfuls  of  oil 
and  the  same  of  vinegar,  yolks  of  three 
raw  eggs,  beaten  light,  a teaspoonful 
of  sugar  and  half  as  much,  each, 
of  mustard  and  salt,  with  a pinch  of 
cayenne.  Put  sugar,  pepper,  salt,  and 
mustard  into  the  vinegar  and  beat  to 
a boil.  Beat  the  oil,  drop  by  drop, 
into  the  whipped  yolks,  and  when 
you  have  a rich,  creamy  mixture,  stir 
the  boiling  vinegar  into  it  gradually. 
Set  in  a vessel  of  hot  water  and  stir 
until  scalding  hot. 

Tomatoes  a la  Francaise,  Stuffed. 

— Select  six  good-sized,  firm  tomatoes, 
slice  the  top  smoothly  from  each, 
and  remove  the  seeds  without  break- 
ing the  walls  of  the  tomato.  Make 
a force-meat  of  a cupful  of  very  fine 
bread-crumbs,  seasoned  with  a half- 
teaspoonful of  sweet  herbs — parsley, 
marjoram,  and  thyme,  minced  fine — 
pepper  and  salt,  and  a teaspoonful  of 
grated  lemon-peel.  Moisten  this  stuf- 
fing with  a heaping  teaspoonful  of 
butter,  melted,  and  stir  in  a beaten 
egg.  Fill  the  tomatoes  with  the 
mixture,  replace  the  tops,  and  tie  on 
with  a piece  of  thread.  Mix  another 
egg  with  a table-spoonful  of  water; 
roll  the  tomatoes  first  in  this  and 
then  in  fine  bread-crumbs ; arrange 
carefully  in  a pan,  and  bake  fifteen 
minutes  in  a good  oven.  Remove 
the  threads  before  sending  to  table. 

Tomatoes  au  Gratin. — Dissolve  I 
oz.  of  fresh  butter  in  a stewpan,  and 
mix  Yz  oz.  of  flour  smoothly  with  it. 
Stir  it  with  a wooden  spoon  over  a 
gentle  fire  for  two  minutes,  then  add 
very  gradually  three-quarters  of  a 
pint  of  good  stock.  Let  it  boil  gently 
till  it  is  reduced  to  rather  less  than 
half  a pint.  Put  in  with  it  a table- 
spoonful of  chopped  onion,  three 


table-spoonfuls  of  finely  shred  parsley, 
and  a little  pepper  and  salt,  and  boil 
it  quickly  for  ten  minutes.  Take 
eight  or  ten  large,  ripe  tomatoes. 
Slice  off  the  stalks  and  the  part  that 
adheres  to  them,  and  make  a round 
hole  in  the  top  the  size  of  a quarter 
of  a dollar.  Scoop  out  the  seeds,  and 
fill  their  place  with  the  prepared  sauce. 
Set  them  carefully  in  a baking-tin, 
the  stalk  end  uppermost,  with  2 ozs. 
of  butter,  and  sprinkle  bread-crumbs 
lightly  over  them.  Put  them  in  a 
brisk  oven,  and  bake  them  for  ten 
minutes.  Serve  very  hot.  Time  to 
make  the  stuffing,  about  one  hour. 

Tomatoes  a la  Mode. — Skin  twelve 
large  tomatoes ; cut  them  up ; put 
them  into  a saucepan,  adding  a little 
butter,  pepper,  and  salt.  When  suffi- 
ciently done,  beat  well  four  eggs,  and 
stir  in — stirring  one  way  for  two  min- 
utes, or  until  they  seem  to  be  well 
done. 

T omato  Pie.  — Eigh  good  - sized 
tomatoes,  peeled  and  sliced — if  fresh 
tomatoes  cannot  be  obtained,  those 
canned  whole  may  be  used ; two 
table  - spoonfuls  of  fine  sugar,  one 
egg,  half  a cupful  of  cream  (one  gill), 
juice  of  half  a lemon,  salt-spoonful  of 
salt.  Arrange  the  sliced  tomatoes 
in  a buttered  baking-dish,  sprinkling 
them  with  the  salt.  When  they  are 
all  in,  pour  over  them  the  cream,  the 
beaten  egg,  sugar,  and  lemon-juice, 
all  mixed — the  lemon-juice  put  in  last. 
Cover  all  with  a good  pastry  and  bake 
for  half  an  hour. 

Tomato  Purge  (for  roast  beef, 
mutton,  pork,  etc.). — Take  a dozen 
ripe  tomatoes,  slice  off  the  stalks 
and  the  part  that  adheres  to  them, 
squeeze  out  the  pips,  break  the  toma- 
toes into  pieces,  and  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
good  brown  gravy  and  a little  salt 
and  cayenne.  Let  them  boil ; put  with 
them  an  onion,  a bunch  of  parsley, 
a sprig  of  thyme,  and  a bay-leaf, 
and  simmer  them  very  gently  until 
they  are  quite  soft.  Take  out  the 


436 


Tomatoes,  Raw 


VEGETABLES  Tomatoes,  Stewed 


herbs,  and  rub  the  tomatoes  through 
a fine  hair  sieve.  Dissolve  I oz.  of 
butter  in  a saucepan,  and  mix  a tea- 
spoonful of  flour  smoothly  with  it. 
Add  a table-spoonful  or  two  of  gravy 
and  the  tomato  pulp,  and  stir  the  puree 
over  the  fire  for  five  or  six  minutes. 
Serve  very  hot.  Time  to  stew  the 
tomatoes,  about  an  hour. 

Another  way:  — Simmer  the  toma- 
toes in  good  gravy  till  soft,  as  in  the 
last  recipe.  Take  out  the  herbs,  and 
rub  them  through  a sieve.  Mix  I oz. 
of  clarified  butter  with  a teaspoonful 
of  flour  to  a smooth  paste ; add  grad- 
ually two  or  three  table  - spoonfuls  of 
thick  cream  and  the  tomato  pulp.  Stir 
the  puree  over  the  fire  for  a few  min- 
utes, and  serve  very  hot.  Time  to 
stew  the  tomatoes,  about  an  hour. 

Tomatoes,  Raw. — Carefully  re- 
move the  peelings.  Only  perfectly 
ripe  tomatoes  should  ever  be  eaten 
raw,  and  if  ripe  the  skins  easily  peel 
off.  Scalding  injures  the  flavor.  Slice 
thin,  and  sprinkle  generously  with 
salt,  more  sparingly  with  black 
pepper,  and  to  a dish  holding  one 
quart  add  a light  table-spoonful  of 
sugar  to  give  a piquant  zest  to  the 
whole.  Lastly  add  a gill  of  best 
cider  vinegar;  although,  if  you  would 
have  a dish  yet  better  suited  to  please 
an  epicurean  palate,  you  may  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  made  mustard  and  two 
table  - spoonfuls  of  rich,  sweet  cream. 
Raw  tomatoes  are  served  with  mayon- 
naise sauce,  ravigote  sauce,  or  with 
plain  French  dressing.  See  Salads. 

Tomato  Sauce  (to  serve  with 
cutlets,  roast  meats,  etc.). — Take  a 
dozen  ripe  tomatoes,  cut  them  in 
halves,  and  press  the  seeds  and  the 
watery  part  from  them.  Put  them  in 
a stewpan  with  a quarter  of  a pint  of 
gravy  or  strong  broth  and  a quarter 
of  a salt-spoonful  of  cayenne.  Let 
them  stew  softly  until  they  are  melted. 
Press  them  through  a fine  sieve,  and 
put  the  pulp  back  into  the  stewpan 
with  half  a teaspoonful  of  salt.  Let 
it  simmer  gently  for  a few  minutes, 
and  serve  very  hot.  If  liked,  a blade 


of  mace,  two  or  three  shallots,  and 
two  cloves  may  be  stewed  with  the 
tomatoes,  but  most  lovers  of  tomatoes 
prefer  that  they  should  retain  their 
distinctive  character,  and  consider 
that  tomato  sauce  is  spoiled  if  it 
is  flavored  with  other  ingredients. 
Tomatoes  vary  so  much  in  size  and 
juiciness  that  it  is  difficult  to  give 
the  exact  quantity  of  liquor  required 
for  them.  It  should  be  remembered, 
however,  that  the  sauce  should  be  of 
the  consistency  of  thick  cream,  and 
that  if  it  is  too  thick  a little  more 
gravy  should  be  added  ; if  too  thin,  it 
should  be  boiled  down  very  quickly 
for  a short  time.  Time  to  simmer  the 
tomatoes,  about  an  hour. 

See  also  Sauces  for  other  recipes  of 
tomato  sauce. 

T omatoes,  Stewed  (Portuguese 
way). — Slice  half  a dozen  ripe  toma- 
toes, season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  put  little  pieces  of  butter  here 
and  there  upon  them.  Mince  two 
onions  finely,  sprinkle  them  over  the 
tomatoes,  cover  the  saucepan  closely, 
and  steam  them  for  a quarter  of  an 
hour.  Afterwards  pour  a quarter  of  a 
pint  of  good  brown  gravy  over  them, 
stir  frequently,  and  let  them  simmer 
gently  until  done  enough.  Have 
ready  % lb.  of  freshly  boiled  rice. 
Stir  this  in  with  the  tomatoes,  and  mix 
the  ingredients  thoroughly.  Turn 
the  whole  upon  a hot  dish,  and  send 
a little  more  brown  sauce  to  table  in 
a tureen.  Time,  about  one  hour  to 
stew  the  tomatoes. 

Tomatoes,  Stewed  Whole. — Take 
six  or  eight  ripe  tomatoes  of  medium 
size.  Remove  the  stalks,  and  ar- 
range the  fruit  in  a stewpan  in  a 
single  layer.  Pour  over  them  as 
much  good  brown  gravy  as  will  reach 
to  half  their  height,  stew  them  gently 
until  they  are  done  enough,  and  turn 
them  over  carefully  once  or  twice 
that  they  may  be  equally  cooked. 
Thicken  the  gravy  with  a little  flour 
and  butter,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  let  it  boil  two  or  three  minutes 
after  the  thickening  is  added.  Serve 


437 


Tomatoes,  Stuffed  VEGETABLES 


Turnips,  Boiled 


the  tomatoes  very  hot  with  the  sauce 
round  them.  Time  to  stew,  twenty  to 
twenty-five  minutes. 

T omatoes,  Stuffed,  Garnished  with 
Ham. — Wash  six  medium-sized  toma- 
toes, not  too  ripe,  and  about  of  the 
same  size.  Make  a small  opening 
from  the  stem  side,  and  with  a coffee- 
spoon  remove  all  the  seeds  ; drain  them 
well ; sprinkle  the  inside  with  half  a 
salt-spoonful  of  salt,  and  have  the 
following  stuffing  prepared  : Put  in 

the  chopping-bowl  % lb.  of  lean  ham, 
cooked ; chop  it,  and  add  one  pint  of 
coarse  white  crumbs,  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  chopped  parsley,  one  medium- 
sized white  onion,  chopped  fine,  two 
cloves  of  garlic,  chopped  very  fine ; 
add  one  salt-spoonful  of  salt  and  one 
of  black  pepper,  and  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter  divided  in  six  lumps. 
Mix  everything  well ; take  care  that 
the  butter  is  evenly  divided  so  each 
tomato  gets  the  same  quantity  of  it. 
Fill  up  the  tomatoes  as  full  as  possi- 
ble, about  half  an  inch  over  ; sprinkle 
a little  of  the  white  bread-crumb  on 
the  top,  and  place  them  in  a small 
baking-pan,  where  you  have  put  one 
gill  of  olive  oil  or  clarified  butter. 
Bake  the  tomatoes  for  twenty  minutes 
in  a moderate  oven,  basting  twice. 
Serve  them  very  hot,  with  a crown 
of  sliced  ham  prepared  as  follows  : 
Cut  verj7  thin  I lb.  of  lean  ham,  cooked. 
Put  in  a small  saucepan  two  gills  of 
good  broth,  one  gill  of  Madeira ; add 
one  teaspoonful  of  flour  and  one  of 
butter,  previously  mixed  together ; 
boil  for  a few  minutes  to  reduce  to 
half  the  quantity.  Arrange  the  sliced 
ham  in  a small  baking-pan  and  put 
the  hot  sauce  over  it.  Bake  in  the 
oven  for  ten  minutes.  Serve  the  ham 
in  the  platter  around  the  tomatoes, 
and  pour  the  gravy  over  it.  Cold 
cooked  veal  or  pork  is  also  very  good 
instead  of  ham. 

Tomatoes  and  Sweet  Corn. — Select 
six  medium-sized,  firm,  ripe  tomatoes, 
slice  off  the  stem  end,  scoop  out  the 
meat,  and  chop  it  fine.  Take  two  or 
three  roasting-ears  (sweet  green  corn), 


cut  off  the  tops  of  grains  with  a sharp 
knife,  reverse  the  knife  and  scrape 
out  the  milky  substance,  put  corn  and 
tomatoes  in  a vessel,  and  cook  about 
five  minutes;  season  with  salt,  pep- 
per, and  sugar  to  taste ; then  fill  well 
the  rinds  of  the  tomatoes  with  it,  put- 
ting on  top  of  each  a small  piece  of 
butter ; place  in  a pan ; bake  in  a hot 
oven  between  twenty  and  thirty  min- 
utes. Serve  hot  or  cold  with  fowl  or 
fresh  meats. 

Tomato  Toast. — A quart  of  stewed 
ripe  tomatoes  rubbed  through  a col- 
ander, seasoned  with  butter,  pepper, 
and  salt,  and  sugar  to  taste.  Let 
them  simmer  a few  minutes.  Cut 
slices  of  bread  thin,  brown  on  both 
sides,  butter,  and  lay  on  a platter,  and 
just  before  serving  add  a pint  of  good, 
sweet  cream  to  the  stewed  tomatoes, 
and  pour  over  the  toast. 

Truffle. — The  truffle  is  a Kind  of 
mushroom  without  roots.  There  are 
three  kinds — black,  red,  and  white, 
and  the  difference  arises  from  the 
different  degrees  of  ripeness  to  which 
the  truffle  has  attained.  The  black, 
being  the  ripest,  are  the  best.  They 
are  seldom  eaten  alone,  but  are  used 
for  flavoring  pies,  ragouts,  and 
sauces,  for  stuffing  poultry,  and 
for  garnishing  dishes.  When  good 
they  have  an  agreeable  aroma,  and 
are  light  and  elastic.  They  are  best 
when  fresh,  and  lose  much  of  their 
flavor  when  preserved.  They  are  in 
season  from  October  to  January, 
though  bottled  truffles  may  be  bought 
at  any  time. 

Turnips,  Boiled. — Turnips  should 
only  be  served  whole  when  they  are 
very  young,  and  then  they  should  be 
covered  with  white  sauce.  When 
they  have  reached  any  size  they 
should  be  mashed.  Pare  the  turnips, 
and  wash  them;  if  very  young  a 
little  of  the  green  top  may  be  left  on ; 
if  very  large  they  should  be  divided 
into  halves  or  even  quarters.  Throw 
them  into  slightly  salted  water,  and 
let  them  boil  gently  till  tender.  Drain 


Turnips,  Fried 


VEGETABLES 


Turnips,  Stuffed 


and  serve  them.  Time  to  boil,  old 
turnips,  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to 
an  hour  and  a half ; young  turnips, 
fifteen  to  twenty-five  minutes. 

Turnips,  Fried. — Boil  three  or  four 
turnips  till  they  are  three  parts 
dressed.  ‘Take  them  up,  drain  them, 
cut  them  into  slices,  and  fry  them  in 
hot  fat  till, they  are  lightly  browned 
and  quite  tender.  Drain  them,  and 
serve  with  fried  or  broiled  cutlets. 
Or  peel  them  and  cut  them  into  very 
thin  slices.  Let  them  lie  in  cold 
water  for  an  hour  and  drain  them. 
Dissolve  a slice  of  butter  in  a stew- 
pan,  and  in  this  steam  a table-spoon- 
ful of  chopped  onion  for  five  minutes. 
Put  in  the  slices  of  turnip,  sprinkle 
a little  pepper  and  salt  over,  and  let 
them  steam  till  they  are  soft.  A spoon- 
ful or  two  of  water  may  be  added  if 
there  is  any  fear  that  they  will  burn. 

Turnips,  Mashed. — Wash  and  pare 
the  turnips,  and  throw  them  into  cold 
water  as  they  are  done.  Drain,  and 
throw  them  into  a saucepan  with 
slightly  salted  boiling  water.  Keep 
them  covered,  and  let  them  boil  till 
tender.  Drain  them  by  placing  them 
in  a bowl  and  pressing  a plate  upon 
them  to  squeeze  out  the  moisture. 
Mash  well,  and  carefully  remove  any 
stringy  portions  there  may  be  among 
them.  If  necessary,  pass  them 
through  a colander.  Mix  with  them 
a little  pepper  and  salt,  a slice  of  but- 
ter, and  a table-spoonful  or  two  of 
cream  or  milk.  Stir  the  pulp  over 
the  fire  until  it  is  hot  and  quite  dry. 
Serve  very  hot.  Time  to  boil,  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a 
half. 

Turnips,  Puree  of. — Pare  and  wash 
half  a dozen  large,  sound  turnips, 
and  split  them  into  halves,  or  even 
into  quarters.  Boil  them  till  they 
are  very  tender,  and  press  the  water 
thoroughly  from  them.  Pass  them 
through  a sieve,  and  put  them  back 
into  the  saucepan.  Dredge  a small 
quantity  of  flour  over  them,  and  add 
a little  white  pepper  and  salt,  a slice 


of  butter,  half  a teaspoonful  of  white 
sugar,  and  a quarter  of  a pint  of 
cream  or  milk.  Stir  them  over  the 
fire  until  they  are  quite  dry  and  stiff. 
Serve  the  puree  in  the  centre  of  a dish, 
and  arrange  cutlets,  etc.,  neatly 
round  it.  Some  cooks  add  a little 
grated  nutmeg  or  a little  powdered 
ginger  to  turnip  puree.  Time  to  sim- 
mer with  the  cream,  about  ten  min- 
utes ; to  boil,  from  three-quarters  of 
an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a half,  accord- 
ing to  age  and  size. 

Turnips  Stewed  in  Butter,  Young. 

— Take  2 lbs.  of  mild  young  turnips, 
cut  them  into  small  squares,  or  turn 
them  to  any  shape  that  may  be  pre- 
ferred. Dissolve  2 ozs.  of  fresh  but- 
ter in  a saucepan  sufficiently  large  to 
hold  the  vegetables  in  a single  layer. 
Put  in  the  turnips  and  simmer  them 
very  gently  until  they  are  tender 
without  being  broken.  A few  min- 
utes before  they  are  done  enough, 
sprinkle  a little  salt  and  white  pepper 
over  them.  Put  them  in  the  centre  of 
a dish,  and  arrange  fried  or  broiled 
cutlets  neatly  round  them.  Time, 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  an  hour 
to  stew  the  turnips. 

Turnips  Stewed  in  Gravy. — Pare 
and  wash  the  turnips,  and  cut  them 
into  small,  square  pieces,  or  turn  them 
to  the  shape  of  balls  or  pears.  Put 
them  into  a saucepan,  pour  over  them 
as  much  boiling  gravy  as  will  cover 
them,  and  add  a lijttle  salt  and  pepper 
and  a small  lump  of  sugar.  Let 
them  simmer  gently  until  they  are 
tender.  Put  them  in  a hot  dish, 
pour  the  gravy  over  them,  and  serve 
very  hot.  Time  to  stew,  three-quarters 
of  an  hour  or  more,  according  to  age. 

Turnips,  Stuffed,  Large.  — Boil 
whole  four  or  five  large  turnips. 
Take  them  up,  drain  them,  cut  a 
slice  from  the  top,  and  scoop  out  the 
middle.  Beat  the  pulp  which  has 
been  taken  out  with  a little  butter, 
flour,  pepper,  salt,  and  cream,  and 
add  the  yolk  of  an  egg.  Fill  the 
empty  spaces  with  the  mixture,  put 


439 


T urnip-tops 


VENISON  Vinegars,  Home-made 


the  tops  on  again,  and  brush  them 
over  with  beaten  egg.  Brown  them 
in  a brisk  oven,  or  before  the  fire,  and 
serve  very  hot.  Time  to  boil  from 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  an  hour 
and  a half. 

T umip  - tops.  — Wash  in  several 
waters.  The  more  water  they  are 
boiled  in  the  better  they  will  look. 
If  boiled  in  little  water  they  will  be 
bitter.  When  the  water  boils  put 


in  a small  handful  of  salt  and  then 
the  tops.  If  fresh  and  young  they 
will  be  done  in  about  twenty  minutes. 
Drain  on  the  back  of  a sieve,  and  serve 
in  a covered  vegetable-dish  garnished 
with  poached  eggs. 

Vegetable  and  Fruit  Salads. 

See  Salads. 

..  Purees.  See  Purges. 

..  Souffle.  See  Souffles. 

..  Soups.  See  Soups. 


VeloutG  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 


Velvet  Cakes.  See  Cakes. 

Velvet  Cream.  See  Creams. 

Velvet  Soup.  See  Soups. 

Venison. — The  following  recipes  for 
coo  Icing  venison  will  be  found  under 
their  respective  headings  as  indicated  : 
Venison,  Fillets  of.  See  Game. 

..  Haunch  of. 

..  Marinaded. 

..  Pastry. 

..  Potted. 

..  Steaks,  Broiled. 

..  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Vermicelli.  See  Macaroni. 

Verte  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 


Vienna  Rolls.  See  Bread. 


Vinaigrette  of  Cold  Meat. — Take 
any  kind  of  cold  dressed  meat,  cut 
it  into  neat  slices,  and  put  it  upon  a 
dish  with  cold  potatoes  cut  into  slices, 
hard-boiled  eggs  cut  into  quarters, 
and  slices  of  beet-root.  Season  rather 
highly  with  pepper  and  salt,  pour 
upon  it  oil  and  vinegar,  in  the  pro- 
portion of  three  table-spoonfuls  of  oil 
to  two  of  vinegar,  and  toss  it  light- 
ly together  with  a fork.  Sliced  cu- 
cumber, chopped  parsley,  and  finely 
minced  onion  may  be  added  if  liked, 
and  a few  drops  of  tarragon  or  chilli 
vinegar  may  be  mixed  with  the  ordi- 


nary vinegar.  See  Beef,  Veal  (Calf's- 
head). 

Vinaigrette  Sauce.  See  Sauces. 

Vinegars,  Flavored. — Vinegar  may 
be  flavored  with  herbs  and  spices, 
and  a good  store  of  these  vinegars 
will  prove  of  great  service  in  cookery. 
Procure  the  flavoring  ingredients — 
such  as  celery  or  cress  seed,  chillies 
or  capsicums,  tarragon  leaves,  shal- 
lots, etc. — to  put  them  in  bottles ; 
cover  them  with  good  cold  boiled 
vinegar,  and  cork  tightly.  In  a 
week  or  two  the  vinegar  will  be  suf- 
ficiently flavored,  and  all  that  will 
then  be  necessary  is  to  strain  it  off 
and  bottle  in  small  bottles  for  use. 
In  nine  cases  out  of  ten  the  flavoring 
ingredients  may  have  a second,  and 
even  a third,  supply  of  vinegar  poured 
upon  them.  Tarragon  and  chilli 
vinegars  are  particularly  useful  for 
salads,  while  a few  drops  of  garlic 
or  shallot  vinegar  added  to  a pint  of 
gravy  will  impart  a characteristic 
flavor.  Herbs  also,  if  boiled  for  a 
short  time  in  vinegar,  will  communi- 
cate their  flavor  to  it,  and  the  flavor 
of  some  fruits,  when  imparted  to 
vinegar,  is  very  delicious.  The  acid 
thus  made,  when  mixed  with  water 
and  slightly  sweetened,  constitutes  a 
refreshing  summer  beverage. 

Vinegar  for  Pickles.  See  Pickles. 

Vinegars,  Home-made. 

See  Beverages. 


440 


Violet  Ice-cream 


Vol-au-vents 


vol-au-Vents 


Violet  Ice-cream.  See  Ices. 

Violet  Jelly.  See  Jellies. 

Vol-au-vents,  Egg.  See  Eggs. 

Vol-au-vents,  To  fill. — A vol-au- 
vent  is  simply  a case  in  which  are 
served  delicate  and  savory  ragouts 
of  dressed  meat,  fish,  etc.  When 
preparing  these,  it  is  very  important 


that  the  cook  should  make  the  sauces 
in  which  the  meat  is  heated  very 
thick.  Unless  this  is  done,  the  liquor 
will  be  in  danger  of  oozing  through 
the  crust,  and  this  will  entirely  spoil 
the  appearance  of  the  vol-au-vent. 
Also  the  meat  should  be  simmered 
only  in  the  sauce ; if  it  is  allowed  to 
boil,  it  will  in  all  probability  be  hard 
and  unpalatable.  Vol-au-vents  are 
made  in  all  sizes. 


w 


Wafers. 

See  Cakes. 

Wheat  Bread. 

See  Bread. 

Waffles. 

See  Bread. 

Whipped  Cream. 

See  Creams. 

Waldorf  Salad. 

See  Salads. 

Whitebait. 

See  Fish. 

Walnuts. — Recipes 

calling  for  wal- 

White  Cake. 

See  Cakes. 

nuts  will  be  found  under  the  following 

• 

heads : 

Whitefish,  Planked. 

See  Fish. 

Walnut  Cake. 

See  Cakes. 

Salad* 

Cream. 

See  Candy. 

Catsup. 

See  Pickles. 

White  Mountain  Cake. 

Pickled. 

See  Cakes. 

Salad. 

See  Salads. 

White  Sauce. 

See  Sauces. 

Washington  Cake. 

See  Cakes. 
See  Ices. 

White  Soup. 

See  Soups. 

Water  Ices. 

White  Spice  Cake. 

See  Cakes. 

Water-cress  Salad. 

See  Salads. 

See  Cakes. 

Wine  Drops. 

Watermelon  Rind. 

See  Pickles ; 

also  Preserves. 

Wine  Jelly. 

See  Jellies. 

Weakfish,  Boiled. 

Broiled. 

See  Fish. 

Wine  Sauce. 

See  Puddings. 

Wedding  Cake. 

See  Cakes. 

Wine  Soup. 

See  Soups. 

Weights  and  Measures,  Tables  of. 

Wines,  Home-made. 

See  Inside  Cover. 

See  Beverages. 

Welsh  Rabbit. 

See  Cheese. 

Woodcock. 

See  Game. 

Y 

Yeast.  See  Bread.  Yorkshire  Pudding.  — Allow  one 

egg:,  and  milk  to  make  a tolerably 
Yellow  Piccalilli.  See  Pickles,  stiff  batter,  to  two  table-spoonfuls  of 

442 


Yorkshire  Pudding  Z W I E B A C K S 


Yorkshire  Pudding 


flour.  This  will  make  a very  good 
pudding,  though  a better  and  lighter 
one  may  be  made  by  using  two  eggs 
to  three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  or 
even  one  egg  to  each  table-spoonful 
of  flour.  Put  as  much  flour  as  will 
be  required  into  a bowl,  and  add  a 
pinch  of  salt.  Stir  in  gradually  as 
much  milk  as  will  make  a stiff  batter, 
and  beat  the  mixture  vigorously  till 
it  is  perfectly  smooth  and  light.  Beat 
the  eggs  separately,  and  add  them 
to  the  batter.  Place  the  pudding-tin 
under  the  roasting  joint,  and  leave 
it  till  it  is  thoroughly  hot  and  well 
greased  with  the  drippings  from  the 
joint.  Pour  the  batter  into  it  to  the 
thickness  of  the  third  of  an  inch, 
and  bake  the  pudding  before  the  fire 


under  the  joint.  Turn  the  pan  round 
and  round,  that  the  pudding  may  be 
equally  and  lightly  browned  on  every 
side.  Cut  it  in  three -inch  squares; 
take  these  up  carefully  with  a slice, 
place  them  on  a separate  dish  which 
has  been  made  very  hot,  and  send 
them  immediately  to  table,  to  be  eaten 
with  the  meat  and  the  gravy. 

This  is  the  English  way:  — When 
the  roast  is  to  be  baked  in  an  oven 
put  the  batter  in  a pan  with  some  of 
the  drippings  from  the  roast.  Bake 
from  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  The  pudding  must  not  be  over 
an  inch  thick.  Cut  it  into  squares 
and  serve  with  the  roast.  It  may  be 
browned  on  both  sides.  See  also 
Beef,  Roast,  page  12. 


Z 


Zwiebacks  are  made  of  rolls  or 
Vienna  bread,  cut  into  slices  about 
one  - half  an  inch  thick,  and  thor- 


oughly dried  in  a moderately  hot 
oven  until  they  turn  a deep  yellow 
color. 


THE  END 


WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES 


Every  kitchen  should  have  scales,  with  weights  from  a quarter  of  an  ounce 
*o  two  pounds,  and  the  weights  should  be  kept  carefully  in  order.  A set  of 
Lin  measures  with  small  spouts  or  lips,  with  the  content  distinctly  marked 
lpon  them,  from  a half-gallon  down  to  a pint,  will  also  be  found  very  convenient. 
A)r  smaller  measures  use  a graduated  glass,  which  can  be  bought  in  any  drug- 
store. It  is  likewise  well  to  have  a set  of  w'ooden  measures,  from  a peck  down 
to  a quarter  of  a peck. 

4 gills 

2 pints 

4 quarts 

Yz  cupful 

4 cupfuls 

16  table-spoonfuls  of  liquid 

8 heaping  table-spoonfuls  of  dry  material 

I cupful 

30  drops  of  liquid 

4 table-spoonfuls 

4 wineglassfuls 

1 ounce  of  salt  or  granulated  sugar 

16  ounces 

4 cupfuls  of  sifted  flour 

I pint  of  granulated  sugar 

I pint  of  powdered  sugar 

1 large  table-spoonful  of  butter 

I pint  of  butter 

8 lo  10  eggs 

PROPORTIONS 

4 level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder;  or  2 teaspoonfuls  of  soda  and 
xxmfuls  of  cream  of  tartar;  or  2 cupfuls  of  sour  milk  and  I teaspoonful 
1 — to  1 quart  of  flour. 

cake  of  compressed  yeast  = 1 cupful  of  liquid  yeast, 
ustards  use  2 or  3 eggs ; Yz  teaspoonful  of  salt ; Yz  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
; pint  of  milk. 

1 ounces  of  gelatine  to  3^4  pints  of  liquid, 
e teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  to  I cupful  of  flour. 

Use  4 table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch  to  1 quart  of  milk. 

To  54  pint  of  molasses  use  1 teaspoonful  of  soda. 

Where  molasses  or  sour  milk  is  used  in  baking,  cream  of  tartar  or  baking- 
vder  is  to  be  omitted,  and  soda  only  is  to  be  used. 

Dry  materials  are  to  be  mixed  and  sifted  together.  Liquids  to  be  mixed 
- )gether.  In  baking,  the  dry  and  liquid  materials  are  combined  just  before 
mtting  into  the  oven. 


= 1 pint 
= I quart 
= 1 gallon 
= I giU 
= I quart 
= 1 cupful 
= I cupful 
= x/z  pint 
= 1 teaspoonful 
= 1 wineglassful 
= 1 cupful 

= i heaping  table-spoonful 
= 1 pound 
==  1 pound 
= I pound 
= 14  ounces 
= 2 ounces 
= 1 pound 
= 1 pound 


